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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M5S0 

(716)  872-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CiHIVi/iCIVlH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproduciions  /  inst^tut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notea/Notes  tochniquaa  at  bibliographiquea 

The  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Featuraa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  imagea  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  change 
the  uaual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 

L'Inatitut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  poaaibie  de  ae  procurer.  Lea  dttaila 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  aont  paut-Atre  uniquaa  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normaia  de  filmage 
aont  indiqute  ci-deaaoua. 

Coloured  covera/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Coloured  pagea/ 
Pagea  da  couleur 

Covera  damaged/ 
1 — 1    Couverture  endommagia 

__ 

Pagea  damaged/ 
Pagea  endommagAea 

Covera  reatored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  reataurAe  et/ou  pelliculAe 

— ~ 

Pagea  reatored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pagea  reataur*aa  et/ou  pelliculAea 

Cover  title  miaaing/ 

La  titre  de  couverture  manque 

V 

Pagea  diacolourad,  atained  or  foxed/ 
Pagea  d*color*ea.  tachatiea  ou  piquiea 

Coloured  mapa/ 

Cartea  gAographiquaa  en  couleur 

"~" 

Pagea  detached/ 
Pagea  ditachAes 

The 

to  tl 


The 
poai 
oft 
film 


Ori( 
beg 
the 
aior 
othi 
firai 
aior 
or  il 


D 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Showthrough/ 


I      I    Coloured  platea  and/or  illuatrationa/ 


D 
D 


D 


n 


PIcinchea  et/ou  illuatrationa  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autrea  documanta 

Tight  binding  may  cauae  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Mure  aarrde  paut  cauaar  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
diatortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leavaa  added  during  reatoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  poaaibie,  theae 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  ae  peut  que  certainea  pagea  blanchea  ajoutiea 
lora  d'une  reatauration  apparaiaaent  dana  le  texte. 
maia,  loraque  cela  Atait  poaaibie,  cea  pagea  n'ont 
paa  6X6  fiimiea. 

Additional  commenta:/ 
Commentairea  aupplAmentairea: 


^1   Tranaparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inAgala  de  I'impreaaion 

Inciudea  aupplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  material  aupplAmantaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  diaponible 


I      I    Quality  of  print  variea/ 

I     I   Inciudea  aupplementary  material/ 

I — I    Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Pagea  wholly  or  partially  obacured  by  errata 
alipa,  tiaauea,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
enaura  the  beat  poaaibie  image/ 
Lea  pagea  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obacurciea  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6ti  fiimAea  6  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  poaaibie. 


The 
aha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff 
enti 
bed 
rlg»^ 
req 
me 


Thia  item  la  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-deaaoua. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

WK 

>/ 

1 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grAce  it  la 
g6n6ro8itA  de: 

BibliothAque  nationale  du  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  M  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet6  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  6tre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  f  ilmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^ 


(4 


a 


u 


^ 


Tais 


ARCTIC  REGIONS: 


DEUTO  AX  AOOOVWT  OF  THB 


O 

a 

M 

o 

o 
(4 

H 

n 


n 
14 

u 

< 
D 

I.* 

at 

M 

ss 


AMERICAN  EXPEDITION 


IN  SEARCH  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN, 

TTNDER  THK   PATROXAOB  OF  ^ 

HENRY  GRINNELL,  Esq. 

OF  NEW  YORK, 


Miserable  they, 
Who  here  entangled  in  the  gathering  ice, 
7r»ke  their  last  look  ol  the  dasccndin^  sun. 
^  Cowraa. 


BUFFALO: 

DERBY,    ORTON   &   MULLIGAN. 

AUBURN: 

DERBY  &  MILLER. 


^ 


1853. 


Entered  sccurding  to  Act  of  Cougress,  in  the  year  Miti,  by 

GEO.    U.  DERBY   AND  CO. 

in  tti«  Clerk'i  Office  of  tlie  Diatrict  Court  for  tlic  Northern  District 

of  N«w  York. 


^:^ 


B  E  A  D  L  K    A    n  II  C)  T  H  E  R, 
B  r  K  I  A  I.  o  . 


\ 


^ 


TO 


?IENUY   GRINNELL,  ESQ., 


THIS   FIRST  AMERICAN  EDITION 
OF 

UB  JORH    FKANKLIN   AND   THE   ABOriO   BEOIOHI, 

IS  RESrECTPrLLY   DEDICATED 

BY  nis 

HUMBLE  SERVANTS, 

THE   PUBLISHERS. 


PUJiLlSllElliS'   XOTICK 


Thfi  ex))lorations  of  the  Arctic  Rotrions,  made  durini!;  tlio  last 
tlirt'(3  ccuturii's,  liiivc  lucii  inompti'il  l.y  the  most  cuinmcutlablo 
sjiirit,  and  liavo  called  into  n'ijiii>itiun,  and  strikinudy  dovelojx'd, 
traits  of  cliaract<M-  of  a  liiuli  ordt-r.  The  Arctic  navii^ators  liavo 
usually  been  mini  of  i-xtrcnie  darinir,  wonderful  I'crsoveranco 
and  sublime  fortitude;  and  a  (li';*'"!  of  tlieir  lieroic  toils  in  tlio 
path  of  g(joi^rai»liical  dis(.overy,  abounds  with  scicntitic  facts, 
and  examples  uf  manly  couran'e  and  exalted  virtues,  potential 
in  their  nature,  and  hijxhly  salutary  in  their  tendency. 

These  considerations  have  impressed  us  with  the  importance 
of  reitublishino^  this  work.  lUit  as  the  Eui^lish  edition  containr 
but  slieht  reference  to  American  enterprise  and  zeal  in  tlii 
seareli  for  the  long  absent  ships,  under  the  command  of  Si? 
John  Fianklin,  we  have  deemed  it  proper  to  add  an  account  of 
the  expedition  sent  out  under  the  patronage  of  Henry  Grinnell 
Esq.,  who  is  doinfj  more  than  any  other  man  in  our  country  to 
entitle  modern  merchants  to  the  appellation  given  to  those  of 
Tyre,  in  her  best  days — "the  honorahh  of  the  earth."  Tho 
account  of  the  expedition  which  he  sent  out,  is  copied  from 
Lossing's  article,  in  Harper's  New  Monthly  Magazine.  The  other 
additional  matter  will,  we  trust,  be  found  pertinent,  entertaining, 
and  valuable.  The  work,  in  its  present  form,  must,  we  feel 
assured,  meet  the  apj)roval  of  a  discriminating  public 


I 


%' 


PllKFACE  TO  THE  ENGLISH  EDITION. 


Tuv  viesirc  for  information,  fidt  all  over  this  country,  anil,  inileod,  I 
niAV  >.li  x.st  s'ly  tliron<,'lioiil  tlu'  fiviiizcd  wuiM,  res|)i.'ctini(  tiie  fate  of  tho 
niisxiii!*  cxjH'dition  inulfr  Sir  .lolm  Franklin,  is  v»  ly  >^r«'af,  and  j-ontinues 
t<»  becoMU'  more  and  inoru  intense,  as  tlic  lapse  of  time  lessens  the  probii- 
liility  of  their  rctnrn  in  saft-ty.  The  liirtje  nnmher  of  irKMviiluais  now 
tni;a:,fe<l  in  pioseentinir  tlie  seaivii  for  tiicni  in  the  arctic  regions,  and  tho 
de»  p  anxitty  nianilVstrd  by  the  frieixl*  and  relatives  whom  tliese  freriii 
explorers  have  left  lirhind,  has  turned  tiie  attention  of  thon.s;»nds  to  this 
inlio-ipitahle  and  comparatively  little  known  iinaitur  of  the  jjlobo,  servinjr 
to  lend  an  added  interest  to  every  bu(»k  descriptive  of  the  |Kjiar  seiis  itnu 
t9  holes. 

Ainoni,'  the  publications  which  have  from  time  to  time  ajipeared,  tliero 
Reeins  to  have  been  no  popular  narrative,  especially  treatini^  of  the  voy- 
ai,'e>  and  journeys  of  discovery  and  research  prosecuted  in  the  nineteenth 
century  towanj  the  North  I'ole,  embracinij  accounts  of  all  the  recent 
public  and  private  soiirchiii;^  expeditions  after  tlie  lost  ships,  and  adapted 
in  price  to  the  bulk  of  tiie  community  who  so  eJigcily  seek  information. 
'I'o  meet  this  want  1  have  been  induced,  at  the  solicitation  of  my  jnb- 
lisliers,  to  undertake  the  conij)ilation  of  tlie  following;  work,  in  whicii  I 
have  brou^dit  into  one  ''jw  all  that  is  really  im|)ortaiit  to  be  known  by 
those  who  desire  to  form  a  correct  opinion  of  the  present  state  of  tho 
case,  and  to  makw  themselves  ac<|uainte<l  with  what  hav  really  been  done 
in  the  ])roirress  of  discovery  for  a  northwest  passaufe,  and  what  nioasiires 
have-been  adopted  for  the  relief  of  our  in>pris«nied  seamen.  Much  of  the 
material  thus  condensed  is  to  be  found  -tcattered  throuifh  a  variety  of 
publications,  hujjfc  and  expensive  quart*  \'  luines  of  voyatjes,  now  scarce 
or  out  of  juint,  ])ailiamentary  ])a|ieis  and  returns,  foreij^n  journals,  itc, 
but  the  larj^est  portion  of  this  iniorm;ition  isentirely  new.  In  condensini^ 
from  the  voluminous  Blue  JJooks  on  this  suliject  that  liave  been  published 
durini,'  the  last  few  years,  my  chief  object  has  been,  avoiding?  rash  and 
specidative  opinion,  to  direct  the  reader's  attention  as  much  as])ossible  to 
matters  of  fact ;  to  place  before  him  all  that  is  really  jtractical,  iinpi>rt.iMt, 
•ind  interestintr,  and  especially  to  put  him  in  possession  of  what  is  known 
of  the  result  of  the  recent  voyai^us.  and  the  Iat«'st  position  and  inlcnded 
plan  of  operations  of  the  numerous  vessels  at  present  out  on  lln^  search 
for  the  Krebus  and  Terror. 

In  puttinjj  myself  in  communication  with  those  best  informed  on  the 
8uV)ject  of  which  this  volume  treats.  I  have  to  acknowledi^e  myself 
deeply  indebted  for  much  jiolite  attention  an<l  valuable  infonnation  to 
Lady  Franklin  and  her  niece  .Miss  rracroft.  to  John  Harrow.  Ks(|..  of  tiie 
Admiralty,  to  ("apt.  rn'cclnr,  ]'.  X..  the  talented  edittir  f)f  the  Nautical 
Mairar.ir.e,  to  Coniniunder  ( ".  ('.  Forsytii.  K.  X..  and  to  Dr.  Shaw,  the  Sec- 
retaiy  of  the  Royal  (u'tiL,naphi('al  Society  of  London. 

In  conclusion,  I  may  stale  that,  as  the  son  and  grandson  of  very  old 


VI 


r  K  i;  !•  A  r  V. 


Lietitunnntx  in  tlio  Iloyal  Xavy,  luivinp;  ln'orj  rtrij^inally  in  tlie  ««'nica 
iiiyKcir,  Iwiviiifr  tivf  Itriitlit'is  atlnnt,  aixl  a  lar<^'<>  niiiiilHT  nt'  olli(>t'  n>iutivt!H 
lioliiiii^  InT  Maji'Hty's  »'<)niinissiiiii,  I  1'«m1  a  il»'<'|i  |»i<if)'s»*itiiial  inten'^t  in 
hi'arin);  tidirifTH  of  thu  HaiVty  of  Sir  John  Kranklin  an<l  liis  gallant  coni- 
rnduH,  an<l  uni  but  too  liappy  to  aid  in  witistyini;  tliu  public  deHiru  for 
information,  by  contribntin^f  my  mite  in  the  pnblinition  of  the  following 
narrative  of  voyaf^es  and  traveU  in  the  arctic  rejfions,  with  the  appeiid«-d 
Hu^^fHtioiiH  and  (tpinioiis  of  ex|K!rienced  otiicerN  and  rom|M>tent  particH. 
I'o  the  intrcitid  veteran  and  navigator,  whose  name  fif;uri'HHofre(piently 
and  8o  honorably  in  these  iwgeH,  1  Iiojmj  wc  may  yet  bo  able  to  JiJ)ply, 
with  the  few  slight  verbal  ultenititin.s  1  )iav*>  made,  the  following  lines, 
which  were  ori^jinally  addn-swd  to  Dr.  Leichardt,  who,  after  two  years' 
absence  on  a  journey  t)irout,'h  the  unexplortMJ  reijionsof  Australia,  rt'tuniiKl 
to  Siflnoy,  when  all  Iiojm's  of  his  wifety  had  been  (fiven  up,  and  his  dirj^e 
had'  been  sun^  by  ]iis  friends.  Tliat  bold  traveler  is  a^ain  absent  on  u 
S(!C()n(l  journey  in  the  interior  of  that  vast  continent,  and  has  not  been 
heard  of  for  more  tlian  two  years.  May  He.'iven  fjrani  to  each  and  all  of 
our  care-worn  traveleix  by  S4'a  and  land  a  speedy  deliverance  from  the 
()crils  which  environ  them,  and  a  safe  return  to  their  friends  and  native 
country  —  a  wish  to  which  all  my  readers  will,  1  am  sure,  most  hearnly 
re8])ond,  "So  mote  it  be  !  " 

"Thy  fii<)tHt»>pH  Imvc  rt-tumfld  .iifnin,  tlioti  wanderer  of  the  wild, 
AVIhtc  Niifurt'  from  licr  iiortlii'rii  tlininc  in  sili'iit  lioimty  siiiiJed, 
Piljfriiii  of  iiiiKlit.v  wiistos,  iliitroil  liy  liiitiiaii  foot  licforc, 
Triunipliuiit  o"cr  Frost's  wildi-riicKS,  tliy  wciiry  jounioy  'ho'ot. 

Thou  hast  hattled  witli  Iht*  daii^'iTS  of  tlic  icol>«>r>r  and  the  tlood, 
Anil  uiiiid  th«!  i-ry.Htal  d«'s«'rt  a,  I'lnujiKTi^r  hast  Ktood  ; 
Thou  liatit  triuniphi'd  ot-r  the  jhtiIs  <jf  tht*  glacier  and  the  main, 
And  a  uation'M  sniiiiiig  wclcoinv  is  the  greetiu);  liumu  a(;uui. 

Loni;  ha<l  wo  inoiiru'd  witli  Horrowin);,  and  plaintive  dirs^a  sung, 
For  fatn  a  wild,  niysturiouM  vail  around  thy  name  had  Hung; 
And  hopp'rt  dci-linin);  «'norjries  with  feeble  ert'ort  strove 
AgaiuMt  the  bodin);  voice  of  fear  that  liauntH  the  heart  of  love. 

And  Rtmior  with  lier  Inmdred  tongues,  her  vajfue  and  ))li;.''htin^'  breath 
Iliul  whispered  tidings  Had  and  drear,  dark  tales  of  IiIoikI  and  death; 
Till  tortiu'ed  fancy  ceiused  to  ho]ie,  and  all  despairiii);  pivo 
Thy  name  a  haliow'd  memory  —  thy  hones  u  polar  jjrave 

But  no!  that  i>roud,  intrepi<l  heart  still  held  its  piirpofie  high, 
Like  Afric's  martyr  traveler,  resolved  to  do  or  (lie  ; 
Like  him  to  find  a  lonely  frravr,  in  tlesert  lands  of  flame, 
Or  win  a  bright  eternity  of  high  and  gkirious  fame! 

Oft  amid  famine,  dMn;:<'r.  death,  when  meaner  spirits  qnail'd. 
Have  thy  unfailing  energies  to  cheer  and  soothe  prevaii'd; 
For  well  thy  liope-inspiring  voice  could  speak  of  perils  past. 
And  bid  each  coming  one  ap]iear  less  |iainfiil  than  the  last. 

And  oft  e'en  that  brave  lieart  of  thine  has  Mdden'd  to  desjiair. 
When  r)'er  some  wild  and  ice-clad  scene,  the  sunlight  shining  fiur 
Hath  bid  thy  softened  sjiirit  feel  how  lonely  was  thy  lot. 
To  die,  thy  mission  nnfiiltiird,  uJiknown,  unwei)t,  forgot. 

Proud  man  !  in  after  ages  the  story  sIl-vII  be  told. 

Of  that  advent'rous  voyager,  the  ;reneroiis.  the  bold. 

Who.  scorning  hope  of  selfish  gain.  <li>daining  soft  repose. 

Went  forth  to  trace  a  pathway  through  unyielding  ice  and  snows." 


P.  L.  SIMAIOx^S. 


S  Barge-  Yard,  City. 
March,  1851. 


CONTENTS. 


fntiodiictioii  to  tlic  AmfiicnM  IMilioti 


Iiitroiliii'tnrv   l{<'iimrks 25 

Little  l%iiiiwii  "I"  tti»«  Arcth'  Hfu'ioim— Niitire  .it'Caiit.  I>lii|>|iH'  V(>>a>r« — Pnrry'd  and 
FrmiUlin*  >ij«iiiti>ii^  mi  ii  niTthuft  |i;ih»,ii;i-  — .\li«.ti-:Mt  i>t' Sir  Joiiii  Harrow 'a  nurkauu 
Arutic  Uim-uviTV  — Knirliiiiir.H  lu-tflect  nt'  h-r  iiHutir:il  iicrova.     . 

(';it«t;iin  S^ir  .lulm  IJ.iv--'^  V.iva:^..'  in  tin-  Isjilu'lla  and  Alexander  to 
Iliii|,s..i,'rt  l'»\y  ill  l«^M....' 37 

NatTicH  iif  tlio  ollW'iTK  uiiil  iiu'ii — Sliijis  ^initnl  liv  tin*  nntivt'H  of  <iri>ciiliiiiil — Almn- 
(Iniu'f  i.t'  liiril  "II  this  coast— (inli-  I'f  wiii'l—  Ucil  >.iinw  —  l^iiKiistt'i-  SdiiikI — Tlie  liibu- 
U)Ui*  (-"riiU'T  iii">iiiitaiiis--.Vi;ii<"iiiii>iiiiiiiiiit  —  Liiri,'!'  Umi-  hliot— Hi-fiirii  hmii.'. 

VovuiTd    n(    I'ucliriM  ainl    I'lankliii  in  tlio  Donttlu'a  and  Trent,  to 
Sjiifzl>cT<,'on,  iVi'.,  If^lH, 4r> 

NiimcM  lit'  <iHl(  iT.t  (unl  cii'Miplcnii'tit,  \c. — rim-il'iil  ujipc'irancc  i>('  jccIiit;;)* — Sliipt 
arriw'  ,.t  Siiit/.liHru'i'U — Am  liur  in  MaTiliIiii  ll.iv  — llaii.'iii'j-  icftn-i-Lr-i— Iiiiiik'Iihc  IIuckm 
ol'I'ii  iN  -Daiiu'i'iMHisati  lilt  cif  U>it'.i'  Hill  -  AttacU  (ifwalriix't  -Siirpri'W'cl  l>v  iiiiIohUimI- 
fiir  \i  iliir-i- I'lVniit  tiM'liu:,'  i<\'  rccliiM's— K\ii<'ilitiiin  jiiits  to  sm  ii:,Min  —  I'lirtv  loan 
tliciii-.i'|M.ii)ti  till- ii'i'  -SIii|i-ii|,iiil:i;r'''l  l'\  tlic  |irc'«>iirr  o;  t'w  llm'M — l)aii;;<'roiis  poHitlon 
lit' till- Oiips—'I'lK'.v  laUf  ^(■t^l■.■(•  in  llic  main  |iai'li  cif  ii-i'liiTtfs — Vessels  put  into  Fair 
Ilavuii  to  stoji  li':iL.>  and  relit — Ucturn  In. me. 


Franklin's  First  Land  Kxpedltinn,  1  > |'»-21 CI 

Tarty  Ii>nvo  Kti^^Iaui!  in  tlie  rritice  of  Wa!r< — Keneli  IIikNoh'h  liny  factory  by  tlio 
finl  of  Anu'ii'^t-l'iocti'il  liy  the  i  i\ers  :m<l  I  lUfs  to  <^Mnilierhiiii|  House  — Arrive  at  Fort 
CliijH'xvyan  »t>er  a  winter  ionri.ey  of  s.'>7  mili-s — Ki^'aire  voyai.'eurs  anvl  k'<ii<l^:< — Mak4 
the  aci|nai'itan''e  of  Akaitelio.  tlie  Iixlian  cliief— I'msIi  mi  for  I'lirt  Knterpriso.  wliirh 
is  mailc  their  winter  ri'^iilence  al>rr  a  v^vaiji'  of  .'itill  ini'es — ]''\|i!oriiii;e\enrsionsoar- 
rieil  nil  iluriie.;  the  winter — "(iriTO  St.i''!>iii'.'s,  '  the  Imliati  lieauty — Stores  nnil  Ksiiui- 
nianv  iijti'i  jirettos  mrive — S<'Veiity  of  tin-  \'.  inter — Strlrriii'/s  of  tlie  Imlians — I'arty 
M't  ont  f  >!■  the  I'olar  Si-a— 1> aniim-  the  rna't  we^twaiil  of  Point  Turiiairain — Dreadful 
liaiil -hips  anil  siiH('ri!i„'s  i-niluii'd  4in  ihrir  rcnirii  journey,  from  faiiiiiie  and  tati^rne— 
Dealh  of  several  of  thr  part\— Mr  llond  is  iniirderril  hy  Miiln-I  the  lro(|iiois.  who, 
for  thiir  mntua!  .snt'e'\,  is  killed  hy  Dr.  HiihardrMju— IIuii^mm' and  faliiitie  endured  by 
the  p.irty  — Their  ultimate  rolii'f 


]'ruTv's  First  V<iya;;o  in  llu;  lloda  ami  (Iripor,  1^10  20,... 


• . . . . o3 


y'lines  of  oHicers  servin?,  A;e. — Enter  Lancaster  Sound  — The  f'roker  ninuntaina 
prove  to  hf  fiijlaciotis—l'arry  discovers  and  enters  Ke'.rcnt  Inl"t  —  .VIso  discovera  and 
names  various  islatMN.  c.ipes.  .ami  cliamiels-Kcachi's  Mch  i!'e  N'and— K\)ieilition  ero«a 
the  iiifridian  of  11(1-  W.,  and  1  ecoisic  eiitit'cd  to  the  I'arli.iTiieiitary  reward  of  XotNMI 
—  Drop  anchor  fi,r  theth-t  time — I.ai'.d  on  the  i-'and— Ahandaiu-e  of  animals  found — 
An  evp'orin;.'  party  lo  .•  tliemselTc  ;  for  three  dayx.  hut  are  re<'overed  and  liroui;ht 
back — \o--.e!i  i.'ct  into  w  int.r-'iuarfer-.  -  A  MS.  newspaper  jiuhlishi'il — nitiafour  jilaya 
perforinccl— ()h>ervatiiry  dr'-tro.vcd  hy  fire- Scurvy  makes  its  appearance— Crews  put 
on  short  allowance — An  exciirion  of  a  foi  ini.'ht  made  to  examine  fb*  inland — Shipa  net 
riear  of  thr  ice— l?uf  are  uniiMe  to  in.ake  l\uther  proj.'res«  to  tlie  westward,  and  their 
ratnrn  to  Entjland  is  d'*tP'inin''d  on. 


Vlll 


C  u  N  l  K  M  1  t* 


Parry'H  Scroml  Vnyiij,'^  in  tlie  Fiiiy  nn.l  Hi".  !a,  I«ai-33 101 

IliM  oitliiioii  fiM  to  u  iiortlitvi'st  |>aMiu;fi'—  MitUi*  l(>>«<>Iiiti<>ii  itliiinl,  nt  tlii<  mitritiico  nf 
HucIhoii  H  Mr, kit  -Diiiiifi'i  <<  II    till'  ii'f— I'.ill  ill  u  iili  IIii'Im>ii°  iilln\  ('iiiii|i{iiiyit  ^lli|lH,  nml 

fllliKrailt  ViviSfl,  MJtll    Itlltrh  fiiliilli.tt.'i  fil'iiirr.lill;;  t.i    Knl  Hivi'l  -T*\ii  illillli-IIM'  liriir* 

killi'il — |>t>Hcri|iti<<ii  III' till'  l'I.4iiuitiit>u\— Sut'\i'\'>  iiiaili'  lit' all  llm  lii'li'iit.iliniix  iiml  ruaiiti 
ol'tliiH  lii('Alit,\ — MliipH  ilriM'ii  liai'U  li,v  tlic  I'urri'iit  iiiiU  itnit-ii  i' — Tiiki)  iiii  tlii-ir  wiiitcr- 
i|Uarti'rH — Ai'iil  rcmiit  tii  tlii-atiiciil  uiiiUM'iiii'iit.s  a^-iiu — N  lionl.-i  i»tul  iihiiril — ilrcat 
•••viTit)'  ot  till*  uiiitiT — Sur\(>iii^'  niirrutiDim  ii'-iiiin'il  — liitrllii{riit  I'Souiiiiaiit  ti'inalo 
KttiirtJM  vuliiiililr  li,\ilr<>|fi'a|iliirul  iiit'iiriii.tliiui — I'l'rilnim  ii<»itiiiii  iit'  llif  llci'la— -Her 
liiiritciiliiiiH  rrli'aM>~.s|ii(is  |i:iK)t  Hii'ir  ht-i  iiml  wiiilir  at  iKliiiilii\ — 'I'lic  Fiirv  ainl  Hfrla 
Htruit  exMiiiiiK'il— Iit  Inr.ik.'i  up— Nliip.-t  tlrivt'ii  ulioiit  li^' thu  cui'i'fiit  I'l/r  Uiirtjr-tivo 
dii^it — At  Uait  h'lti"  tl'*'  AtLuitii'  uiid  luulvv  tur  Lti(;!itiiU. 

Clavering'8  Voyngo  to  Siiitzborgoii  nnd  (Irecnlaud  iti  thu  Griper, 
1823 126 

Couvoyd  «iut  CH|)t.  Siiliiiif  to  rimke  obKPrvatiniis—Ilfai'h  Spit zIhtrimi — I'rorci'd  thf np« 
to  HdnUiiluni  ImUukIh — NnrtlivaHtiTii  coast  of  <irf<>iilaii(l  Kiirx'.vril— ('aptuiii  ('lavrriti|| 
and  a  party  of  iiiiu't<*rii  iiumi  rarrv  on  an  cxplnriii;;  cNpi'ilition  for  a  fortiiiK'lik— Mei>i 
with  H  trilio  of  KMi|niiiianx — Sliip  pnfn  to  Hfa — Make  fcir  tin*  coast  of  Norway — Ani'lior 
lu  Drouthuiin  Fiorii — <)ll^t>rv^tioll»  bt-iug  cuinpli'li'il,  ^h\[>  rctiiri:)t  to  EuKlat'iil. 

Lyon's  Voyn^o  in  the  (irijwr, 128 

Ir  «ent  toiiiir\^.v  anil  oxainin*'  llii>  KfraitH  iiml  ulioriH  of  Arctio  Ainvrica — Arrives  in 
the  cliaunelluiown  nn  !{o»''k  Wciconu' — KiinmntiTM  atcnittc  kuIc — Niii  iniiiiiii)>iit  rlnn- 
ger  In  tlie  llav  of  (foil's  Mi'rr.v— SiiiVorH  fi-uni  Mimilu'r  fi-arfiil  fttorni — Tha  nhip  lieiiig 
quito  cripiilvj,  und  liuviii};  IomI  uU  her  Kni'lior!),  &«:.,  is  ubli|,'C'd  tu  return  lioniu. 

Parry'8  Third  Voyago  in  tho  Hicla  and  Fnrv.  1821-25 130 

Names  nnd  nnniber  of  the  i)tllri'ri»,  itc— llfcia  laid  on  her  brnndxide  by  the  icc — 
Ships  reach  IjincoHter  Sound— Kiiti'r  Hi'vtcut  Inlet,  and  winter  ut  Port  Howimi — Dreary 
«'hiir»i»ter  of  the  arctic!  winter— Former  aniUKi'incnts  worn  threadbare — Polar  Kal 
Maiir|T}t  f;iit  up — Explorini;  parties  M>iit  out  inluiid  and  aloiiK  the  coast— Ships  ore 
re!eui»ea,  but  iR'set  by  the  ice,  and  curried  by  the  jiack  down  the  inlet — Fury  driven  ou 
shore  and  abandon eu — Return  voyaKO  necessarily  deterniiiied  on — Scarcity  of  animal 
food  in  this  locality — Heclu  arrives  ut  I'ctcrheud— Parry's  opinions  of  the  northwest 
pUMKe. 

Franklin's  Second  Land  Expedition,  1825-2G 137 

Names  of  tlie  officers arronipanyinir  him — Arrive  in  New  York  and  ]troceeii  thrnn(;ti 
the  Hudson's  Hay  Comimny's  territories— Winter  af  l-'ort  Franklin  on  (Ireat  Hear 
Lake — A  pioneer  party  iiroceeils  to  c\aniiiie  the  state  of  (be  I'olar  Sea — lietnrn  and 
pass  the  lonjj  winter— l)es<'eiid  tlie  Mackenzie  in  the  spiinir— Party  divide  ;  Franklin 
and  Hack  jiroceedinj;  to  the  westward,  while  I»r.  Kicliardson  and  Mr.  Kendul,  iVc, 
£)llow  the  ('oj)periniiie  Kiver — Franklin  eiicoiinterH  a  tierce  tribe  of  Ksijuiniaux  ut  the 
sea — After  u  month's  survey  to  tlie  eastward.  I''i'anklin  and  bis  |iarty  retrace  their  steps 
— Find  Uichardson  and  Kendal  bud  returnd  bet'oie  tbeiii.  alU-r  reaching' and  e.xplor- 
Inir  Dolphin  und  I'nioii  Strait — .Xiiotber  winter  *peiit  at  Fort  Franklin — Intensity  of 
the  cold — I.arj:e  collection  of  olijects  of  natural  history  iiiadu  by  Mr.  Druinmond— 
Fraukliu's  8truj,'R;!e  between  ulfectiou  and  duty— Party  return  to  En>,'land. 


11 


Captain  Beechey's  Vovago  to   Beliring'.s  Strait   in  the   I31o.ssom, 
1825-26 '. 140 

Anchors  off  Petropaulowski— Receives  intellij^ence  of  Parry's  s.ife  return— Interview 
with  the  natives — Correct  liydro;i;raphical  descripticns  (jiven  by  the  Ksiiuimau.T — 
Ship  •  boat  pushes  on  to  the  eastward  as  far  as  Point  Harrow,  to  communicate  with 
Franklin — Crew  in  dantjcr  from  the  natives— t)bli;red  to  return  to  their  shijis — The 
Blossom  proceeds  to  the  I'acitlc,  to  replenish  her  provisions— Returns  to  Kot/cbue 
Sound  in  the  stimmer — Shii>  prounds  on  a  saiid-banK,  but  is  jrot  otf— Hoat  sent  out  to 
learn  tidin^cs  of  Franklin,  is  wreclvcd- Crew  come  into  collision  with  hostile  nativas, 
and  are  wounded;  picked  up  by  the  ship- Dispatches  left  for  FronkJin,  and  the  s]i-9 
rvturus  to  England. 


i 


TON  I  i;  SI  a. 


ix 


37 

I  {car 

ill  id 

ikliit 

."ti-., 

the 

ttvpa 

jlf)r- 

of 

iid- 


140 


I'arry'ji  Fnunh  or  I'ulur  \  ..mi^'i-  in  ll»u  lUvIa,  \(*)i' 144 

PUiii  uiiil  hiiu'kri'ttiiiiiH  III'  S<'iirfiil<\,  lli'Kuti>,v  iiml  KraiiUliik  fur  trntfliiiK  In  iilf(l({«M 
over  till'  ill* — Nutticn  of  tlo*  oilii  ith  <-iii|>l<i_vtii|— Miip  ciiiluirkit  ri'iii'licr  on  the  Norniiy 
I'UMt  — Lk|i«'rl<'nrt'ii  ii  IriMni'ii'lHiiit  ti.klc  — llrM't  li,v  iri>  I'ur  it  iiiuutli  —  AiichnrH  at  >i<lt4- 
Ikt^'Ii- >ti '1/<'-Im>iiU  |iir|<un'i|  lor  the  id'  jourui'*  -  |)«  m  ri|itiiiii  o|'  tlifin— Niitht 
turtii'il  iiili>  ila>-Mntv  |iroi.'r('iiH— (><'(  n|iatliiiiii  of  tin-  |.art;  — I.<mm<  Kniiiiiil  hy  tlia 
tiiiitlm.irit  ilnit  of  ihi*  he — lii'ur  uliot  ■ -Notuiii  il'iiiiiiiuU  mtii— Itciirh  niirthiTiiiiioitt 
kiioxMi  htiiil  -Till'  l>U't  iiaiiii'il  nilrr  Hum- Ki'tiini  to  ihu  i>hi|i— ru'r,>'ii  hiiliiM-tjui-nt 
•Un't;|'^Iil>llH  oil  ilitH  iiiimIc  III  tru>i-liii){— i^ir  John  lliirrow  h  ('oiiiiii<>ni»  thcrvuii— Ojtiu- 
loiia  uf  .thit  |i«'rilous  ice  journey  — UtivU-M  of  rurr^'fc  lirLlii'  KtTVii'i'it. 


.ir.5 


Captain  Joliii  IIojw'h  Stroud  Voynj^o  in  tlm  Victory,  18iJI)-33 

K.iHs  si'i'Uh  nttii  ill!  ciiiiilii^iiu'iit  from  thi-  Ailiniruliy  on  unotlitT  :ir<tio  voya^fo — ia  re- 
f>i'^i|  — Fiiiiili*  m«'  riinii-<hr<l  li\  Mr.  Kflix  llootli— 'I'Ih'  \  ictory  Mtvaiiu-r  (mrchuNt'd— 
F.ii'.cit^i'N  hi»  iii'|'hi'»,  <''>iii<iiunilrr  .laiiii'x  Kim:',  itx  hi'<  i<i'i'iiiii|  in  riiinniiuiil — Liat  of 
uthiT  I'fhii'rn  — >iii|i  I'lii  iiinitfrs  n  kaU-,  iin<l  i<  olili;ri'c|  t'>  |iiil  into  lloUtt'inluTH  to  relit 
— I'rorc.'il  on  tlinr  \ii\ii).'<' — I'liitcr  l.anriu<ti'r  ^uniul  iinil  IdKi'iit  Inh't — Itruch  Kury 
lie.ii  h  — l''iiiil  iiliiiiiilaiii'c  of  Klmcn  llii'ic,  ami  prcMTVctl  uifut  in  excellent  cullihtiiin— 
Ufjplciii.'.h  tlii-ir  ^Il'cl^  — rriMi'cil  iluwn  the  Inlet —I'eriU  of  the  ice  — Vemtel  it'curediii 
Felix  llarhur  I'mt  the  winlfr  — KHjnunaux  viiit  the  Hhi|i — Fnrni;<h  very  <'orrect  aketcliea 
of  the  ciia^t— '^^iinni.iiiiliT  .laincH  Uhhm  tnakert  many  uxciirNioriH  iiilniid  and  alonK  tbo 
liavH  and  inleU  — KxfilureH  Khmi'h  .Strait,  and  |in-'lien  mi  to  Kin)(  Williani'H  l^iid— i>ilU- 
I'Uliy  of  i|i>tinkMiii«hiiJu'  land  frnni  ^eu — Ke.n  Iu'm  I'oint  Virti'ry  unil  tiirim  lutck — iiM{> 
p't.H  clear  of  the  ice.  at^i'r  ele\eii  iiinnth-''  ini)>riHoninent,  luit  in  a  week  iit  n^ain  fro/.en 
in,  and  (lie  li.irt.\  are  ilel. lined  duriii.:  annthei  he\ere  winter— Further  <hM'o\erioa  niudc, 
and  ('diiiiii  iiider  Ko^n  plant.'*  the  Hritish  tl.u'  on  Hie  north  niau'nelic  |iole— In  An^UHt, 
ls:t|,  the  >lil|i  is  warjied  ont,  and  inakeN  s^iil.  I>iit  alter  leatiii;,'  alioiit  for  a  month,  ia 
a^^kiii  fi'ii/eii  in;  and  rather  than  K|M'nd  u  fnnrth  winler,  there  heiii);  no  proMjiect  uf 
rvlea.siii;:  the  Khi|i,  aIic  is  ahundiuied,  and  the  crivv  ni.ike  fur  Knry  Heach — I'roviHioiia 
I  liii.tt.'  taken  on  with  };reat  lalior — I'.irlv  ere,!  a  canva.s  hilt,  which  they  name  Soin- 


ael 


^••i*«     i«»i'XF»  ai>i«^>     11111     iai   (III*  (1.-1    iiiiit     viiiixai     kdi^i     i«t«iai>k'i'a«a 

crset  Mouse— 111  a  ni>iiilh,  the  hoal.s  hein^  |iri'|'aii'd  for  the  \oyap>,  the  party  emhark, 
and  reach  the  mmith  of  thi'  iiilel  -lt.irr<'W  .s  istralt  is  found  one  compact  iiia».s  of  ico— • 
They  are  ohlij;ed  t"  tall  hack  uii  the  >tores  at  I'nry  lleach  t<l^pend  their  fourth  winter— 
I'Ltced  on  slmrt  allowance— In  the  Hpriic/  they  ui;ain  emhurk  in  their  houtHUiid  miccee^ 
in  rcachini;  Uinciu-ter  .Snnnd  —  Kail  in  with  wlialeri* — Are  received  on  hoard  the  Isuhello, 
Cu|>lain  Kowi's  old  hhip — .Arrive  home— rnidic  rejuicingh  for  tla'ir  aafet^'— UuwurUA 
granted — Itetume  of  (.'aptaiii  Juhu  Koiii>'it  avrvii'i's. 

I'aidain  Hack's  Land  Joiuii(>y  in  warcli  of  Kos.s,  1S33-31 168 

Attentliin  called  to  the  missin({  exnedition  hy  Dr.  Kichardson — I'luna  of  relief  huj{- 
(jesled — I'nhlic  meeting:  held  to  con.siiler  the  l.ci-t  nieasure.H — .\ni|>le  I'lindH  raised — Cnpt. 
Hack  Milnnteers  -l>'a\eM  Kn^'land  with  Dr.  Kitiir—  \  lyau'eiirMind  )rnidex,  \c.,  en)fHXvd 
ill  Canada  — Party  pu^h  tliron;;li  the  northwest  cuuritry — Dreadful  HUtleriiiKa  fr<»iu 
liiKect  pest-t — Ueach  Kurt  Kcfiiilntion,  on  Ureal  Slave  Ijike— .Mutley  description  of  the 
traxelers  and  their  »'ncanipnicnt  — .\rraiivrenientr<  are  completed,  and  tlie  journey  in 
tfiarch  iif  the  (iieaf  l''i>h  Kiver  coiiiiiienced — l''ri;;htfnl  nature  of  the  jirecipieea,  rap- 
id.H,  falls,  ravines.  \r. — Meet  with  nld  aciinaint.inces — <)liliL.'id  to  return  to  their  winter 
'piarteis— Dreadful  sulleriiiirH  ot  the  Indiaii.-i— Famine  and  intensi'  cold  —  Nohle  conduct 
of  .Xkaitcho,  the  Indian  chief — News  received  of  Capt.un  Koss's  ..afe  return  to  EliKliiiid 
— Fiaiiklin's  faithl'ul  Ks.jMiiiiaiu  interpreter,  .Ait^ustiis,  end'avorin;;  to  joii'  ttack,  in 
fro/en  to  death — .\  fre.sh  journey  tovvanl  the  sea  is  resoived  on  -riovisioiiR  for  threa 
months  taken — Indian  encampment  -(Jreen  ."»tockini:s,  the  heanfy  — Interview  with  the 
<  liief.  .Ak.titi'ho — .\iiliioiis  and  perilou.s  pro'j:ress  tow. ml  Ihu  >i'a— I'illeriu;;  propensi- 
ties of  the  Indians —.Meet  with  a  larjjL'  fi  iendly  trilic  of  i;s,(uiiiian\  — Keach  the  wa, 
and  proceeii  aloiiK  the  co.i^t  to  the  eastward,  niiahle  to  nrriM'  at  the  Point  'ruriia^ain 
jf  Franklin- I'l  ivations  of  the  party  mi  their  return  Journey  — Dilliculties  finroimtercd 
in  re■ascendin^r  the  river— Keach  Fort  Kcliance  aftrr  four  montlis'  ahseiicc— 1'a.sH  the 
winter  there — Capf-i^n  Hack  arii>es  in  Flntrland  in  Septenilier,  after  un  ahseuce  of 
two  ,\earK  and  a  half— Dr.  King  folluwii  him  in  tlic  lludions  Bay  spring  shipa. 

Back's  Voyage  in  tliu  IVrror  up  Iliulsoir.s  Strait,  183G 186 

Ship  arrives  at  S.ilishury  Island— Proceeds  up  Frozen  Strait— I:i  blocked  up  hy  the 
iep.  and  driven  alioiit  ii(iwcrles.s  for  more  than  six  months — Cast  on  Iior  heumends 
for  three  da>s— F'roin  the  crijiplnd  .state  of  the  ship  and  the  insunnountuhlcdidicultieB 
if  the  navication,  the  return  to  England  ia  determined  on— Summury  t»f  Captain 
Uuok'e  ajsfi^.  sfinccs. 


CONTENTS 


Messra.  Dea?e  and  Simpson's  Discoveries  on  the  coast  of  Arctic 
America,  1836-39 187 

Descend  the  Mackenzie  to  the  sea — Survey  tlio  western  part  of  tlie  shores  of  North 
America  from  Return  Reef  to  Cai)e  Harrow— Discuvfr  two  new  rivers,  tlie  tlarry 
and  Colvilie — After  reaciiiiij;  Klson  IJay,  return  to  winter  at  Fort  Contideiice,  on  Ureat 
Bear  Lake — Survey  resumed  in  tiiu  ensuing  spiiiii,' — Daiifreroiis  rapids  on  the  O.pper- 
uiine  river — Encamp  at  its  moutli — Copper  ore  found  here — Victoria  Land  discovered 
and  1 10  miles  of  new  coast  traced — lii--ascciit  of  tlie  (Vijipermine  ciiinmeiiced — HoatM 
abandoned,  and  tlie  Barren  grounds  traversed  on  focjt — Spend  anotlier  winter  at  Fort 
Confidence — Tlie  followinj?  season  a  tiiird  voyajro  comnieni'ed— Richardson's  River 
•xauiined — Coronation  Gulf  fcui  d  clear  of  ice — Coast  survey  to  the  eastward  prose- 
cuted— Simpson's  Strait  disco.cijd— Back's  Hstuary  reached — Deposit  of  ]iroTisiona 
made  by  Back  five  years  previous,  found — Alierdoen  Island,  the  extreme  point  reached 
—Parts  of  co.asts  of  Boothia  ami  Victoria  Land  traced — One  of  the  boats  abandoned- 
Descent  of  Mio  Cojjper'niue,  and  safe  arrival  at  l''ort  Coiilidciice. 

Dr.  John  Rae's  Land  Expedition,  1 84(5-47 192 

Hudson's  Bay  Company  disiiatch  R:ie  and  a  j)arty  of  thirteen  men  to  complete  the 
Burvey  between  Dease  and  Sinipson's  furthest,  JUid  tlio  Fury  ana  Ilecla  Strait — Expe- 
dition leaves  Fort  Churchill — Reaches  Waj;-er  River — Boats  taken  across  Rae's  Isthmus 
— Winter  re8i<leiice  constructed — Short  commons— West  shore  of  Melville  Peninsula, 
&c.,  examined — Party  return  to  their  encampmeut,  and  proceed  to  Fort  Cburclull — 
Gratuity  of  X'iUV  awurdid  to  Dr.  Kae. 

Captaia  Sir  John  Frankliu's  Last  Expedition  in  tlie  Erebus  and 
Terror,   1845-51 19G 

Probability  of  the  safety  of  the  expedition — Montoromery's  lines  on  ice-imprisoned 
vessels — Lady  Frankliu's  devotion  and  enthusiasm — Verses — Her  appeal  to  the  north — 
Sir  E.  Parry's  opinion — Outfit  and  dispatch  of  Franklin's  exjiedition — Names  of  the 
officers  employed — Outline  of  Franklin's  services — Notices  of  the  services  of  other  of 
the  officers — Soarchin>;  expeditions  sent  out  in  18 IH — UilVerent  volnuteers  offer — Ab- 
tence  of  intelligence  of  Franklin — His  latest  dispatches  and  letters — Copper  cylinders 
— Franklin's  views  and  intentions — Letters  of  Captain  Fit/james — Get;  -ral  opinions  of 
the  most  exp«riencod  arctic  ofiicers  as  to  Franklin's  safety — Oll'er  of  services  and  sug- 
gestions by  Dr.  Kin;^ — Opinions  of  Captains  Parry  and  James  Ross  th'M«>on — Consultrt- 
tdon  of  officers  at  tlia  Admiralty — Report  of  the  hydr(i,;,'r»pher — AiUicc  tendered  by 
those  consulted — Views  of  Mr.  Snow  and  Mr.  McLean — Public  and  ])r:vate  rewards 
offered  for  discovery  and  assisfcmce  to  be  rendered — Second  report  of  Admiral  Beaufort 
to  the  Lords  Coramissioners  of  the  Admiralty — Various  i)rivate  ami  oliii'ial  letters  and 
dispatchas,  pointiaf;^  out,  or  commenting  on  plans  and  modes  of  lelief— Abundance  of 
animal  food  found  in  the  arctic  rejjious — A  ballad  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  GoTernnaent  and  private  Searching  Expeditions 281 

List  of  the  vessels  and  commanders,  &c.,  now  employed  on  the  search  in  the  arctio 
TSg^ons — Notices  of  those  returned  home. 

Voyage  of  the  Entorprise  and  Inve.stigator  under  Captains  Sir  J.  C. 
Rosa  and  E.  J.  Bird,  1848-49    281 

Names  of  the  officers  employed  in  this  expedition — Ships  arrive  at  Uppemavick— 
Proceed  on  their  voyasje— Force  a  passage  tliroujrk  the  ice— Enter  Barrow's  Strait- 
After  being  driven  about  in  the  pack,  take  shelter  for  the  winter  in  the  harbor  of  Port 
Leopold — Surveying  trips  carried  on  down  the  inlet,  aud  round  the  northern  and 
western  shores  of  Boothia — Foxes  trapped  .and  liberated  with  copper  collars  on — Furj 
open  water — Beset  by  the  loose  pack,  and  the  temperatire  falling,  the  wliole  body  of 
ice  is  formed  into  one  solid  mass,  and  the  aliips  are  drifted  with  the  field  into  Bajfin'i 
Bay— The  return  to  England  determined  on— Outline  of  Sir  James  Ross's  arduous 
services  in  the  polar  regions. 

Voyage  of  the  transport,  North  Star,  1849 S'lO 

Names  of  th«  officers  of  the  ship— Official  dispatch  from  ths  Commander- *»Ip 


C  O  N  T  E  N  T  S  . 


XI 


281 

ck— 
ait- 
Port 
and 
?iiry 
Iv  of 
Itfin'i 
iioua 


p)0 
IScilp 


beset  in  iiii  if  J^^•l.l  in  thf  northern  j.art  «f  Hiirtiii's  I?;iy— Prifte<l  with  it  for  glxty-two 
days — Wiiiti-ik  in  \V».l<t«-iihi>iiiiP  Snuii'i— l)e;ii  t!i  of  aniinals  tlicrc — Sliip  pets  I'lcar  of 
ii'i,'  ami  makes  tor  f  ;inr:i.-t<-r  ^>ouIKl— '1  In-  I.ailv  KiaiiKlin  and  Kt-lix  me  siioken  with — 
Beiii)j  iircvtMiti  rl  hy 'ill-  i.e  troni  ri-a«  liinir  1  oi  t  H,.\mii  or  I'ort  Neill,  the  ]>rovisi(>nt 
tikeii  out  I'V  til.'  Nort:>  Stir  are  Uii'leil  at  Na\v  Hoard  hilct— Spi  aks  the  I'riiiee  A!l)*rt 
— Keceiic>  ili>|iat>  hes  lor  CngLui:d — Keturiis  home — Coiiiinaiider  Suuiulera  appointed 
to  Malta  Dotk-yanl. 


Vovntje  of  tlio  Plover,  and  I?<i.it  Expoilitidiis  under  Commander 
TuUen,    l^  H-f)! 307 

Purport  of  iM>trurtioii.s  i-'>iied  from  the  A(hiiiialty — Sliij>  ai  riM'S  in  Hi'lirii  vr's  Strait 

-Discovers  nrw  land  and  i>iaiid>  to  the  north   of  the  Strait— AViirers  in   Kot/i'l)uo 

fioniid — Lieutenant  I'liIIen  anil  |  arty  j'Toi  <  <'d  in  I  (iat>  aioii^;  the  loa.-t  to  (lie  Mai  kenzie 

Kiver — No  tidinirn  aicancd  of  Kianklin"r..-lii|is — Lfttcr  tioiii  l.itiit.  H'  opcr — Latest  otti- 

ciid  dispjit'-li  from  Commander  Pulien — His  iiitei:tion.-.— Sir  John  liichurdsou'ii  iidvice. 

Voyasjo  of  the  Lady  Franklin  and  Soj)liia,  ptnchascd  government 
ships,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  P<Miiiy 312 

Nature  of  the  instructions  •i\\fu — Printinu'  lVes<  sny.plied — Shii'S  sail  and  reach 
WoUtenhnlmo  Sound — Prevenfed  hy  the  ice  from  evaminiiiLT  Jones'  Sound — Keach 
Wellington  Channel,  and  are  left  tliere  hy  the  Priin'e  Alhert. 

Voyaire  of  the  Resolute  and  A^istance,  under  comiiiatid  of  Captain 
Austin,  with  tln'ir  steaiu  tendi-rs,  Pioneer  and  Intrepid,  l^T)!)-.")! . .  .313 

Ships  purchased  and  are  renamed  hy  tlie  jrovernment — Ollicers  en;plf.>  i  d — Itistnu- 
tii>ni>  sriven  to  »i:'arch  Wellinjrton  ('hannt-l.  and  pn?.h  on  to  Melville  IsIiiMl-  •  Mticial 
dispatch  ft-om  Captaiu  Oumumey — MS.  newspaper  started  on  liourd  the  A:siitunce— 
E.vtracts  therefrom. 

Vovacre  of  Captain  Sir  Juliu  Ross  iu  tlio  Felix  iirivato  s<lnioner 
1850-1 319 

Ls  fitted  out  hy  the  Hud:-on"s  Ray  Comiiany  .and  ]iri\ate  suhscriiitiou — Arrives  at 
^Vhal^•ti^h  l.-Iand-i.  and  overtakes  th"  Advance  ainl  IJcxjI'ite — I'l'ocecils  in  company — 
EsiiuiniauT  reports  of  tlie  destruction  of  Franklin's  ships,  and  murder  of  the  cre*^— 
Proved  hy  investi;.';;tion  to  he  devoid  of  ll>undati(iu— Letter  of  feir  John  Iloss  to  tho 
Secretary  ot'  the  Ailmiralty. 

American  Gf)veniment  Searchinc;  Kxpedition  in  the  L'nited  States 
ships  Advance  and  Rescue,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Do 
Have  n,   1  ^50-5 1 323 

Lady  Franklin's  appeal  to  the  Aniericaii  nation — Mr.  Clayton's  reply — Second  letter 
of  I.ady  Franklin  to  the  Pre.-i.lent— Sii'.';H->tions  of  Lieutenant  S.  <)^l'urn,  K.  N.— De- 
bate in  Congress — Kesolntions  a.'recd  to — Munificence  of  Mr.  H.  (irinnell— Ships  fitted 
out  and  dispatched — Names  of  oUicers  employed— Dispatches  from  the  coniniander. 

Remarkable  Voya2;e  of  the  private  ship  Prince  AlV>ert,  under  the 
cornmaiul  of  Captain  Forrivth,  R.  N.,  to  Regent  Iidet  and  back, 
1850 .' 343 

Fitted  out  by  Lady  Franklin  and  by  private  suhseription — Reasons  for  the  expedition 
— Officers  .-xad  crew — Discover  traces  of  Franklin — Fall  in  with  other  ships — Visita 
Regent  Inlet — Is  forced  to  return  homo — Heiuarks  on  this  voyajre — Position  of  tb« 
y«8sel£  of  the  squadrou— Liues  to  th«  expeditious  iii  seartli  of  Sir  John  tVauklin 


1. 


^        — ' 


-# 


X 


INTRODUCTION. 


^^f 


The  interest  aroused  both  in  this  country  and 
Europe,  in  regard  to  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
associates,  has  in  no  degree  diniinislied  by  the  fail- 
ure of  the  various  Exploring  Expeditions,  to  ascertain 
the  fate  of  the  great  navigator.  His  well  known 
intrepidity,  his  great  experience  and  knowledge  of 
the  Arctic  regions,  the  abundant  supplies  with  which 
he  was  furnished,  the  various  casualties  which  may 
have  excluded  liim  from  the  observation  of  subse- 
quent navigators,  and  above  all,  the  traces  which 
have  been  discovered  of  him,  have  kept  alive  hopes, 
which,  under  other  circumstances,  in  the  long  lapse 
of  time  would  have  been  utterly  extinguished.     The 


XIV 


I  NT  liU  DUCT  lux. 


heroic  woman,  whose  devotion  to  her  gallant  huit*ind 
has  made  her  name  a  household  word  in  two  conti- 
nents, whose  appeals  in  his  behalf  have  touched  all 
hearts,  and  filled  all  eyes  with  teai*s,  whose  conduct 
has  added  another  illustration  of  conjugal  affection, 
of  indomitable  perseverance  and  courage,  to  the  loi]i«f 
list  of  examples  of  woman's  faith  and  woman's  forti- 
tude,  the  wife  of  the  lost  Franklin  still  hopes.  8ho 
cannot  believe  that  the  sea  has  swallowed  the  gallant 
company  under  the  guidance  of  her  husband,  or  that 
the  frosts  of  the  Pole  have  benumbed  their  energies; 
no  mounds  of  snow  and  ice  are  seen  by  her,  as 
marking  the  place  where  they  await  the  voice  of  the 
Archangel,  and  the  trump  of  God ;  before  the  vision 
of  her  mind,  the  frost-bound  voyagers  still  appear, 
watching  for  some  friendly  sail  in  the  open  channels 
of  the  frozen  seas,  still  husbanding  their  resources, 
still  hoping  against  hope.  She  beholds  them  man- 
fully struggling  with  the  difficulties  of  their  position, 
seeking,  during  the  short  summer  of  the  high  latitudes, 
an  avenue  of  escape,  and  engaged  in  the  winter  in 
protecting  themselves  from  the  cold,  by  walls  of 
snow,  and  renewing  their  clothing  with  the  spoils 
of  the  shaggy  monarch  of  those  solitudes,  the  polai 
bear,   whose    capture  stimulates  their    energies  and 


INTIIODVCTIOX. 


xv 


5 

m 
of 

Lai 
nd 


invigorates  their  powers.  While  such  a  hope  is  strung 
in  tlie  soul  of  this  noble  woman,  it  will  live  in  the 
hearts  of  all  Christendom  until  the  lost  are  restored 
to  home  and  Jdndred,  or  their  graves  are  found,  and 
their  forms,  untouched  by  decay,  recognized  by  the 
hardv  mariners  wlio  brave  the  dauijers  of  an  Arctic 
Sea.  Wiio  can  tell  if  tliis  lost  company  have  not 
broken  through  into  that  open  Ocean  which  is  said 
to  si)read  out  beyond  the  barrier  of  ice,  and  found 
there  a  new  world  from  which  they  cannot  return  to 
relate  the  story  of  tlieir  marvelous  voyaged  Who 
knows  if  they  are  not  now  re^wsing  upon  some  island 
of  that  unknown  Sea,  where  a  modified  climate,  and 
a  fertile  soil  furnish  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  or 
are  vainly  coasting  along  that  wall  of  ice  through 
which  they  unexpectedly  entered,  and  from  which 
tlioy  hope  to  escape  by  some  opening  like  that  in 
which  they  came  ?  Perhaps,  curiosity  overcoming  love 
of  home  and  kindred,  they  liave  explored  or  are 
now  exjiloring  the  unknown  world  upon  which  they 
have  been  permitted  to  enter,  mapping  its  islands 
and  bays,  or  passing  on  to  the  pole  itself,  full  of 
high  thoughts  of  the  undying  fame  that  will  reward 
their  toils,  when  the  story  of  their  return  and  their 
discoveries    shall    astonish  the  world,  as  when  the 


tr 


.<vi 


INTKODUCTION. 


daring  Genoese  brought  back  to  Spain  and  Europ.. 
the  i)roofs  of  the  existence  of  the  continent  which 
sh(juld  have  borne  his  name. 

The  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Indies, 
was  the   first  object   of  the   daring    navigators   who 
explored  the  northern  seas  ;  the  pursuit  of  the  whale 
lias  since  led  a  multitude  of  vessels  among  the   ice- 
bergs and  ice-fields  of  the  frozen  ocean.    Any  furthei 
expenditure    of   treasure,    or   hazard    of  life   for  the 
former  purpose  is  imcalled  for  —  a  mere  waste  of  ma 
terial    and    a    tempting   of   providence.      Enough   is 
known  to  settle  the  question  that  any  passage  forced 
through  those  seas  to  Asia,  would   be  too  hazardous 
and    too  uncertain  to  render   it  of   the    least  com- 
mercial advantage.      The  path  to  China  marked  out 
by  nature,  or  rather  by  the  God  of  nature,  is  by  the 
isthmus  which  separates  North  and  South  America, 
and  all  ideas  of  an  available  northwest  passage  are 
simply  Utopian.    For  the  perfecting  of  the  geography 
of  the  earth,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whethei 
an  open   ocean,  and  a  modified  climate,  and   a  pro- 
ductive soil  are  to  be  found  beyond  the  fields  of  ice, 
may  be  worthy  the  efforts  of  civilized  nations,  yet  it 
might  be   questioned   whether  the   hardships  of  the 
navigation,  and    the    risk    of   life    in    those    remote 


I 


.J5^ 


1  N  T  IJ  O  D  U  C  T  1  O  N  . 


xvn 


pro- 
ice. 


solitudes,  would  not  justify  an  abandonment  of  a  re- 
gion nruarded  by  such  awful  barriers,  which  could  only 
be  pasr^ed  occasionally  in  the  lapse  of  years.  If  it 
should  appear,  that  a  land  like  the  garden  of  Eden 
lay  l)oyond  the  domain  of  frost,  how  could  it  bo 
made  practically  accessible,  or  used  for  the  benefit 
of  mankind  ?  Would  it  not  fjrever  remain  like  that 
hidden  city  in  the  desert,  which,  according  to  the 
eastern  fable,  is  concealed  from  all  passers  by,  and 
only  some  favored  traveler  is  perhaps  once  in  a 
century  permitted  to  gaze  upon  its  deserted  streets 
and  behold  its  towers  and  palaces;  or  like  the  I6st 
Atlantis,  would  it  not  be  discovered  only  to  disap 
pear  forever? 

For  the  rescue  of  the  long  lost  company  of  Sir 
fohn  Franklin,  or  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
heir  fate,  too  much  can  hardlv  be  done.  In  sudi 
an  enterprise,  the  noblest  sympathies  of  our  nature 
cannot  ftiil  to  be  enlisted,  and  higher  and  more 
worthy  of  remembrance  than  the  conflict  of  arms,  or 
the  rivalry  of  the  nations  in  their  fabrics  at  the 
recent  great  fair  of  the  world  in  the  modern  Baby- 
lop,  Lias  been  the  competition  between  England  and 
the  United  States,  in  the  voyages  of  discovery  tor 
the  great  arctic  navigator,  and    his  companions.     In 


f  f 


f 


will 


I  N  T  15  <»1)  Ll  TI  ON  . 


pucli  a  contest  the  bonds  of  national  brutlicrliood  aro 
stR'ngthoned,  the  fViendsliip  of  tlie  two  great  brandies 
of  tlie  Anglo-Saxon  race,  who,  descended  from  the 
same  ancestry  and  speaking  tlie  same  tongue,  Iiavo 
been  intrnsted  by  the  divine  providence  with  the 
guardianship  of  civil  and  religions  freedom,  is 
cemented  and  made  to  soar  above  the  petty  rivalries, 
and  the  i)etty  provocations,  which  have  heretofore  so 
often  disturbed  the  <;ood  nnderstandin*]:  which  ou«jht 
ever  to  prevail  between  those  who  are  brethren  in 
l)lood,  wdio  have  a  common  ancestry,  a  common  lan- 
guage, and  a  common  faith.  Despotism  like  a  dark 
cloud  is  gathering  over  Europe ;  France,  after  numer- 
ous revolntions,  and  a  multitnde  of  grandiloquent 
protestations  for  freedom,  has  tamely  yielded  to  a 
military  dictatorship  more  degrading  than  the  rnle 
of  her  most  despotic  monarchs,  and  nothing  marks 
her  incapacity  for  liberty,  her  profound  social  cor- 
ruption and  the  utter  loss  even  of  the  heroic  element 
tliat  characterized  her  in  the  worst  days  of  the  Bour- 
bon dynasty,  than  the  character  of  the  man  who 
has  seized  the  reins  of  government.  The  shadow,  or 
rather  the  mockery  of  a  great  name,  with  no  rejui- 
tation  as  a  soldier,  with  no  ability  as  a  statesman, 
the   dissolute   and   degenerate   nephew   of   the  gro**- 


L 


I  N  r  It  O  1)  U  C  T  I « >  N  . 


MX 


Warrior,  holds  France  under  a  rule  more  disgi-aceful 
to  lier  than  that  of  Louis  XV.,  of  whose  vices  he  is 
an  apt  imitator.  Under  such  circumstances,  the  con- 
tinued friendship  of  Great  J>ritain  and  the  United 
States,  is  essential  to  tiie  liighest  interests  of  our 
common  humanity.  Tugetlier  they  may  dvA'y  the 
world  in  arms,  and  hlockade  tlie  ports  of  all  the  des- 
potic powers  on  the  globe,  and  every  generous  con- 
cert of  action,  evevy  noble  rivalry  like  tluit  wliich  sent 
our  ships  in  search  for  the  lost  Fi'anklin,  is  an  omen 
of  good  to  the  world,  and  a  pledge  that  despotism  is 
not  to  shroud  the  nations  in  darkness,  sui)erstition, 
and  ignorance.  The  vast  conspiracy  which  is  now 
organizing  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Paris,  and  from 
the  Baltic  to  the  Caspian,  against  a  free  jiress,  free 
government  and  free  speech,  can  only  be  defeated 
by  the  constant  friendship  and  united  resistance  of 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race  on  both  continents. 

It  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that  the  American 
expedition  should  have  originated  in  private  benev- 
olence, and  that  to  the  enlightened  liberality  of  a 
single  individual,  the  country  owes  an  enterprise 
which  reflects  so  much  credit  upon  our  re])ublic. 
We  read  in  the  Scriptures  of  ancient  nations  and 
cities    "  whose    mcrcluints    were    princes : "    if    this 


KX 


1  M  T  ii  U  D  L  C  I  I  (J  N  . 


I 


expression  in  the  Bible  implies  what  it  dues  in  mod 
era  purliiuce,  we  may  congratulate  ourselves  tiiat  we 
possess  a  similar  description  of  citizens  —  merchants 
who  are  princes,  not  in  the  magnificence  which 
apes  the  i)omp  of  royalty,  but  in  the  largo  and 
liberal  spirit  that  exhibits  itself  in  acts  of  generosity 
and  munilicence,  which  may  be  termed  princely  in 
respect  to  the  grandeur  of  their  conception,  and  th© 
efficiency  of  their  execution. 

The  true  genius  and  character  of  a  people  may  be 
tested  by  the  examples  of  individuals,  no  less  than 
by  their  institutions  and  laws.  The  illustrious  citi- 
zens of  the  ancient  republics  are  the  memorials  and 
proofs  of  their  national  greatness.  As  the  Roman 
mother  said  of  her  children,  "  these  are  my  jewels," 
60  the  Commonwealth  may  say  of  her  distinguished 
sons,  for  they  are  the  glory  and  the  crown  of  the 
State.  The  name  of  Henry  Grinnell,  in  connection 
with  the  expedition  in  search  of  Franldin,  will 
survive  all  the  marble  and  granite  of  the  city  of 
his    residence.      He  might  say  with  truth  with  the 

Latin  Poet, 

"  Exegi  monumentiim  sere  perennius." 

"Whatever  is  done  for  truth  or  for  humanity,  sur- 
vives in  the  remembrance  of  all  ages  ;  the  star  o1 


I  NT  KOH  I-  CTION 


\.\l 


ii  the 


t 


[y  oi 


a  Tfoward  culminntoa  al)ovo  those  of  all  the  heroes 
aii<l  eonqucrcrs  who  liave  filled  the  earth  witli  vio- 
lence, and  the  merchant  prince  who  Rent  his  ships 
into  the  Arctic  Seas,  to  search  for  the  lost  of 
another  nation  and  people,  is  entitled  to  the  plau- 
dits of  his  country  and  his  race. 

Nor  slioiild  tiio  commander,  ofHcers,  and  seamen 
)f  tlie  American  expedition  be  forujotten  l)y  the  ^•"»v- 
ornnient,  or  their  countrymen.  In  the  dangerous 
Bervice  in  wliich  they  voluntarily  engaged,  they  ex- 
hiljited  the  courage  and  hardihood,  the  coolness  and 
foivthoui'ht  which  have  characterized  the  hriiiclitest 
examples  in  our  naval  history.  The  narrative  of 
their  hazardous  voyage,  so  far  as  it  has  been  made 
public,  reflects  the  highest  credit  upon  all  concerned, 
and  has  added  new  luster  to  the  annals  of  American 
•ieamanship. 

The  naval  service  is  the  right  arm  of  the  Republic; 
no  power  on  earth  can  assail  us  while  the  ocean  is 
eovered  with  our  ships.  Great  Britain  came  out  of 
the  contest  with  Napoleon  and  the  continent  witli 
safety  and  success,  only  because  she  acquired  and 
kept  the  dominion  of  the  sea  ;  it  is  her  naval  supe- 
riority, which  now  delays  the  Autocrat  of  the  North 
in    his    contemplated    subjugation    of    Europe,    ai»»^ 


Wll 


1  N  I  li  < » r»  r  f  I  I  (.»  N . 


prevents  liis  iiuiiu'«liate  oecnpation  <*['  (\»ii>ta!itiiniji!e 
ftH  tlio  seat  of  liis  new  Kuipire.  Nor  is  it  merely  tho 
number  ut*  meu-ol-war  wliicli  arc  kcjit  alio. it,  tliat 
creates  the  naval  superiority  of  a  country,  but  that 
extensive  conmierce  which  constitutes  a  mirserv  of 
seamen,  whose  numbers,  knowledge,  and  courage 
may  be  nuidc  available  in  the  hour  of  danger.  In 
no  respect  have  our  countrymen  so  uniformly  dis- 
tinguished themselves,  as  in  tiieir  naval  exploits,  no- 
where have  they  been  so  successful,  as  on  tiie  «m  can, 
and  the  safety  of  the  country  is  more  connected  with 
tiiis  department  of  defense  than  any  other.  "VVhile 
i^uch  men  as  Coujmander  De  JIaven,  (xritrith,  and 
such  crews  can  be  muotered  from  the  naval  service 
(•f  the  United  States,  our  shores  are  safe  from  foreign 
invasion,  and  our  country  from  all  assaults  save  those 
of  the  demon  of  domestic  discord  ;  if  we  perish,  it 
will  be  suicidally. 

While  every  christian  and  philanthropist  will  earn- 
estly desire  and  pray  for  the  day  when  men  shall 
learn  war  no  more,  when  '"  the  sword  shall  be  beatet 
into  a  plowshare,  and  the  spear  into  a  pruning 
hook,"  it  is  the  height  of  folly  to  presume  that  anj 
euch  period  ie  at  hand  —  to  blind  our  eyes  to  the  evi- 
dent toVpjv!  of   an  approaching  contest  which  is  to 


•«;' 


\ 


I  NT  Kn  I»  r  (;  r  I  ()  N. 


X  X  M I 


^liako  tl'f^  earth,  and  tnnu  wliich  wo  can  only  cscnpo 
scathlcs'S  l)y  a  posithm  and  a  fnro'  uliicli  will  coiii- 
]t('l  rosjart  lV»i'  our  ri^dit-,  and  protect  •iir  luiilrality, 


it"  it  l)e  |>ossil»li'  l.»  inaiTitain  tins  jiosilitMi  \\\  a  cnii- 
test  wa^od  tor  the  destruction  nt"  civil  and  ri'lii^ious 
liberty.  The  narrative  of  the* American  expedition 
cannot  fail  to  enli>t  the  sympathies  of  the  country 
more  earne>tlv  in  behalf  of  those 

"Whose  iii.'ircli   is  on  the  inouiitain  wave, 


Wh 


loso  Homo  IS  en  uio  <ic('!> 


th 


and  kindle  generous  emotions  in  all  hearts.  "Wo 
hope  it  may  find  a  place  in  every  habitation 
throuiihout  the  length  and   breadth  of    ouJ  extended 


country. 


( 


^  ■  -'iTriMi 


^■i^uiapR: 


\ 


THE  PROGRESS 


OF 


ARCTIC   DISCOVERY 

IN  THE 

NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


If  we  examine  a  map  of  Northern,  or  Arctic,  Amer- 
ica, showino;  what  was  known  of  the  countries  around 
the  North  Pole  in  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century,  we  shall  find  that  all  within  the  Arctic  circle 
was  a  complete  blank.  Mr.  Hearne  had,  indeed,  seen 
the  Arctic  Sea  in  the  year  1771 ;  and  Mr.  Mackenzie  had 
traced  the  river  which  now  bears  his  name  to  its  junc- 
tion with  the  sea ;  but  not  a  single  line  of  the  coast 
from  Icy  Cape  to  Baffin's  Bay  was  known.  The  east- 
ern and  western  shores  of  Greenland,  to  about  75°  lat- 
itude, were  tolerably  well  defined,  fi'om  the  visits  of 
whalinc;  vessels;  Hud'^on's  Bay  and  Strait  were  par- 
tially known;  but  Baffin's  Bay,  according  to  the  state- 
ment of  Mr.  Baffin,  in  1616,  was  bounded  by  land  on 
the  west,  running  parallel  with  the  90th  meridian  of 
longitude,  or  across  what  is  now  known  to  us  as  Bar- 
row's Strait,  and  probably  this  relation  led  to  the  sub- 
sequently formed  hasty  opinion  of  Captain  Sir  John 
Ross,  as  to  his  visionary  Croker  Mountains,  of  whiclt 
I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  hereafter. 

As  early  as  the  year  1527,  the  idea  of  a  passage  to 
the  East  Indies  by  the  North  Pole  was  suggested  by  a 


^, 


I 


I 


2i> 


i'i;'»Gi:i-..ss  <»[■'  Aiiciiu   iu>t  uvi;uY 


Bristol  mcrcli.iiit  to  ITcnry  YTII.,  Liit  no  voyfipjc  scoins 
to  have  been  undertaken  for  tlie  purpose  ofnaviii^ating 
the  Polar  seas,  till  the  commencomont  of  the  folluwin^ 
century,  when  an  expedition  was  iitted  out  at  the  ex- 
pense of  certain  merchants  of  London.  To  this  attein])t 
several  others  succeeded  at  diiferent  period?!,  and  all 
of  them  were  projected  and  carried  into  execution  by 
private  individuals.  The  adventurers  did  not  indeed 
accomplish  the  object  they  exclusively  sought,  that  of 
reaching  India  by  a  nearer  route  than  doubling  the 
Oape  of  Good  Hope,  but  though  they  failed  in  that 
respect,  the  fortitude,  perseverance,  and  skill  which 
they  manifested,  exhibited  the  most  irrefragable  proof;^ 
of  the  early  existence  of  that  superiority  in  naval  af- 
fairs, which  has  elevated  tliis  country  to  her  present 
eminence  among  the  nations  of  Europe. 

At  length,  after  the  la})so  of  above  a  cer.t;iry  iMid  a 
half,  this  interesting  question  became  an  object  of 
.Uoyal  patronage,  and  the  expedition  which  was  com- 
manded by  Captain  Phipps  (afterward  Lord  ^lulgravc,) 
in  1773,  was  iitted  out  at  the  charge  of  Government. 
The  first  proposer  of  this  voyage  was  the  Hon.  Daine:i 
Barrington,  F.  R.  S.,  who,  with  indefatigable  assiduity, 
began  to  collect  every  fact  tending  to  establish  the 
practicability  of  circumnavigating  the  Pole,  and  as  ho 
accumulated  his  materials,  he  read  them  to  the  Eoyal 
Society,  who,  in  consequence  of  these  representations, 
made  that  application  to  Lord  Sandwich,  then  First 
Lord  of  the  Admiraltj'-,  which  led  to  the  appointmeuo 
of  this  first  ofiicial  voyage.  Captain  Phipps,  however, 
found  it  impossible  to  penetrate  the  wall  of  ice  which 
extended  for  many  degrees  between  the  latitude  of  80'^ 
and  81°,  to  the  north  of  Spitzbergen.  Ilis  vessels  were 
the  E-acehorse  and  Carcass ;  Captain  Lutwklge  being 
his  second  in  command,  in  the  latter  vessel,  and  hav- 
ing with  him,  then  a  mere  boy,  Kelson,  the  future 
hero  of  England. 

From  the  year  1648,  when  the  famous  Russian  navi- 
":ator,  Scnor  Deshnew,  penetrated  from  the  river 
Kolyma  through  the  Polar  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the 


«■& 


INTliuDLC'lIOX. 


27 


yn^c  scoins 
navii]::ating 
e  lolluwinff 
:  at  the  ex- 
his.itteini)t. 
)di^,  niul  Jill 
LecutioTi  by 
not  indeed 
!;]it,  that  of 
Hibliiig  tlio 
led  in  tliat 
slvill  ^vl^cl\ 
;aljlc  proor:^ 
n  naval  af- 
her  present 

]t\]vy  rnd  !i 

1  ohjeet  ut' 

h  was  coni- 

^[nlgravc,) 

overnnient. 

on.  Daine:i 

c  assiduity, 

tablish  the 

,  and  as  ho 

the  Royal 

sentations, 

then  First 

pointmenb 

,  however, 

I'  ice  which 

Itiide  of  80^ 

ssels  were 

klge  being 

,  and  hav- 

the  futuro 

;sian  navi- 
the  river 
>cean,  the 


Kir 


Ri:5>ians  liave  been  as  arduous  in  tli(;ii'atiein|>ts  todis- 
cnvei*  a  northea-t  pas^a^A'c  to  the  inu'tji  oi"  Ca[)e  iSiicl- 
atskoi,  a>  tlie  Kiii!;li6h  iiavc  bet'U  to  sail  to  tiie  north- 
west <tt'  tiie  Anu'i'ican  coiirineiir,  tli!MUi:li  IJallin's  Day 
and  l^aiica-ter  Sound.  On  the  side  ot'  the  Pacilic, 
niuny  ellbrts,  liave,  within  the  last  century,  been  made 
to  further  this  object.  Jn  1741,  the  celebrated  Captain 
IJehrini^  (li>covered  the  straits  which  bear  Ids  name,  as 
we  ai'c  inlbnned  by  ^Muller,  the  chronicler  ot*  Uu-sian 
di-coveries,  aiul  several  subseipient  comniandei's  of 
that  natio!!  seconded  his  endeavoi's  to  pcneti-ate  from 
the  American  continent  to  the  northeast.  .  From  the 
jxM'iod  when  Deshnew  sailed  on  his  e.\})edition,  to  riie 
vear  ITdt,  when  Admii'al  Tchitschaii-of  an  indelatin'a- 
l)le  and  active  <,>{iicer,  endeavored  to  force  a  passage 
round  S|)itzl)ergen,  (winch,  altliough  he  attempted  witli 
a  resolution  and  skill  which  would  fill  to  the  lot  of 
few,  he  was  unable  to  ell'ect,)  and  thence  to  the  ])resent 
limes,  including  the  arduous  elforts  of  Captain  Billing:-! 
and  \"aiicouvei',  and  the  more  recent  one  fd"  ?.r.  V^on 
Wrangell,  the  Russians  have  been  imtiring  in  their  at- 
tempts to  discover  ;i  passage  eastwai'd,  to  the  north 
of  Ca])e  Taimurand  Cape  Shelatskoi.  And  certainly, 
if  skill,  ])erseverance,  and  courage,  could  have  opened 
this  passage,  it  would  have  l)een  accomplished. 

Soon  after  the  general  peace  of  Eur')])e,  M'hen  war'^s 
alarms  had  given  way  to  the  high  pursuits  of  bclence, 
the  government  recommenced  the  long-suspended 
work  of  prosecuting  discoveries  within  the  Arctic  circle. 

An  expedition  was  dispatched  under  the  command 
of  Sir  John  Ross,  in  order  to  explore  the  scene  of  the 
former  labors  of  Frobisher  and  Baffin.  Still  haunted 
with  the  golden  dreams  of  a  northwest  passage,  which 
Barrington  and  Beaufoy  had  in  the  last  age  so  enthu- 
siasticallv  advocated,  oi;'-  liautieal  adventurers  bv  no 
means  relinquished  the  I  -  :g-cheris!u  d  chimera. 

It  must  be  admitte  1.  'lowever,  ''^  t^  the  testimony  of 
Parry  and  Franklin  .u-.  r»;-  ;  '  ,  ^  the  other  side 
of  the  question.  Botii  tliese  oi^.^^.'s,  v\  iiose  researches 
in  the  cause  of  scientific  discovery  entitle  thovi  'Q.,>VGi7 


44 

^C7 


rBwoia:s3  of  aklttc  iusluvkuv 


'i 


Li^li  reapect,  have  declared  it  as  their  opinion  tliut 
such  a  passap:e  does  not  exist  to  the  north  of  the  Totli 
de!L,n*ee  of  latitude. 

Captain  Parry,  in  the  conchidinj:::  remarks  of  his  first 
vovagie,  (rol.  ii/p.  241,)  say? — ''  Of  the  existence  of  a 
norihwest  passage  to  the  Pacific,  it  is  now  i^carcely 
possible  to  doubt,  and  from  the  success  whicli  attended 
our  efforts  in  1810,  after  passing  througii  Sir  James 
Lancaster's  Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anti- 
ci})uting  ite  eom])lete  accomplishment,"  k^c.  And 
Fi-anklin,  in  the  eleventh  chapter  of  his  work,  is  of  the 
same  opinion,  as  to  the  practicability  of  such  a  passage 

Put  in  no  subsecjuent  attempt,  either  by  themselves 
or  fthers,  has  this  long  sought  desideratum  been  ac- 
coniplished  ;  iiupediments  and  barriers  seem  as  thickly 
thi-i'Wn  in  its  way  as  ever." 

An  expedition  was  at  length  undertaken  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  reaching  the  Is'orth  Pole,  with  a  view  to 
tiie  ascertaini«ent  of  philosoidiical  questions.  It  was 
planned  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Sir  Edward 
Parry,  and  here  first  the  elucidation  of  phenomena 
connected  with  this  imaginary  axis  of  our  planet 
tori.ifed  the  piimary  object  of  investigation. 

ISly  sjmce  and  purpose  in  this  work  will  not  permit 
me  to  go  into  detail  by  examining  what  Barrow  justly 
ternis  "  thos^  brilliant  ])eriods  of  early  English  enter- 
prise, so  conspicuously  displayed  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe,  but  in  none,  probably,  to  greater  advantage 
than  in  those  bold  and  persevering  efibrts  to  pierce 
through  frozen  seas,  in  their  little  slender  barks,  of  the 
most  miserable  description,  ill  provided  with  the  means 
either  of  comfort  or  safety,  without  charts  or  instru- 
mevits,  or  any  previous  knowledge  of  the  cold  and  in- 
hospitable region  through  which  they  had  to  force  and 
to  i'cel  their  way ;  their  vessels  oft  beset  amidst  end- 
less fields  of  ice,  and  threatened  to  be  overwhelmed 
witli  instant  destruction  from  the  rapid  whirling  and 
buvoting  of  those  huge  floating  masses,  laiown  by  the 


•  Colonial  Mngazliip,  ml.  xiii,  p,  310 


IMTKUDL'CTI'.»X., 


9b 


1)111*1011   tliut 

uf  tlie  75th 

:>;of  Lis  first 
i&teiicG  of  a 
o\v  seiircely 
cli  attended 
1  Sir  Jaiiie.4 
ible  ill  aiiti- 
iS:c.  And 
:)rk,  is  of  tlio 
:h  11  piisriaii'o 
'  tlieiiiselves 
tim  been  ac- 
ni  as  thickly 

I  for  the  sole 
th  a  view  to 
ons.  It  was 
f  Sir  Edward 
plienoinena 
our  planet 

not  permit 

irrow  justly 

o'lisli  enter- 

quarter  ot 
r  advantage 
ts  to  pierce 
)ark8,  of  the 
h  the  means 
ts  or  instru- 
hold  and  in- 
|o  force  and 

miidst  end- 
lerwhelmed 

lirling  and 

)wn  by  the 


name  of  icebergs.     Yet  so  powerfully  infused  into  tho 
minds  of    liritons  was  the  sjtirit    of  enterprise,  that 
Bome  of  the  ai)lest,  tho  most  learned,  and  most  respect- 
able men  of  the  times,  not  only  lent  their  counten«nce 
I  and  su])|)ort  to  e\[»editions  iitted  out  for  the  discovery 
■  of  new  lands,  but  strove  eagerly,  in  their  own'])ei'S')ns, 
"  to  share  in  the  glory  and  tiie  danger  of  every  da:Iiig 
adventure.*' 

To  the  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  F.  K.  S.,  for  80  long  a 
])eriod  secretary  of  the  Admiralty,  and  who,  in  early 
lil'e,  himself  visited  the  Spitzbergen  seas,  as  liigh  as 
the  SOth  ]»arallel,  we  are  mainly  indebted  for  the  ad- 
vocacy and  promotion  of  the  b«everal  expeditions,  and 
the  investigations  and  incpiiries  set  on  foot  in  the  }  res- 
ent centurv,  and  to  the  voyages  which  ha7e  been  hith- 
erto  so  successfully  carried  out  as  regards  the  interests 
of  science  and  our  knowledge  of  the  Polar  regions. 

Although  it  is  absurd  to  impute  the  direct  responsi- 
bility for  these  expeditions  to  any  other  quarter  than 
.  the  several  administrations  during  whicli  they  were 
undertaken,  there  can  be  no  question  but  that  tiiese 
enterprises  originated  in  Sir  John  Barrow's  able  and 
zealous  exhibition,  to   our  naval   authorities,  of    the 
eeveral  facts  and  arguments  upon  which  they  might 
best  be  justified  and  prosecuted  as  national  objects. 
.The  general  anxiety  now  prevailing  respecting  tho  late 
of  Sir  John  Franklin  and   his   gallant   campanion.s, 
throws  at  this  moment  somewhat  of  a  gloom  on  tho 
Bubject,  but  it  ought  to  be  remembered  tliat,  up  to  the 
vpresent   period,  our  successive  Polar  voyages   h;ive, 
.^without  exception,  given  occupation  to  the  eoergieH 
^and  gallantry  of  British  seamen,  and  have  extended 
||the  realms  of  magnetic  and  general  science,  at  an  ex- 
Ipense  of  lives  and  money  quite  insignificant,  compared 
[with  the  ordinary  dangers  and  casualties  of  such  expe- 
;ditions,  and  that  it  must  be  a  very  narrow  spirit  and 
view  of  the  subject  which  can  raise  the  cry  of  "6'w* 
^6>;io,"  and  counsel  us  to  relinquish  the  honor  and  ]jeril 
of  such  enterprises  to  Kussia  and  the  Uaited  States  o^ 
America  I 


CO 


IMlOGlilibS    OF   AKCTIC    DISCOVEliY. 


I 


i 


f 


M 


i 


It  cjin  scarcely  ho  deemed  out  of  i)l;icc  to  irivo  liero 
a  sliort  notice  ol"  the  literarv  hihoi-.s  of  tins  excellent 
and  talented  man,  as  I  am  not  aware  thateuch  an  out- 
line has  appeared  hefore. 

Sir  John  Barrow  was  one  of  the  chief  writers  for  t})o 
Qnartei4v  lleview,  and  his  articles  in  that  journal 
amount  to  nearly  200  in  number,  forming::,  when  bound 
up,  twelve  separate  volumes.  All  those  relating  to 
the  Arctic  Exj)editions,  &c.,  which  created  the  great- 
est interest  at  the  period  they  were  published,  were 
from  his  pen,  and  consist  chieHy  of  the  following  ])a- 
pers,  commencing  from  the  18th  volume; — On  Polar 
Ice ;  On  Behriuic's  Straits  and  the  Polar  Pjisin  ;  On 
Iloss's  Voyage  to  Batlin's  Bay  ;  On  Parry's  First  Voy- 
age ;  Kotzebue's  Voyage  ;  Franklin's  First  Expedition  ; 
Parry's  Second  and  Third  Voyages,  and  Attempt  to 
Reach  the  Pole  ;  Franklin's  Second  Expedition  ;  Lyon's 
Voyage  to  Repulse  Bay ;  Back's  Arctic  Land  Expe- 
dition, and  his  Voyage  of  the  Terror.  Besides  these 
he  published  "  A  Chronological  History  of  Voyages 
to  the  Arctic  Seas,"  and  afterward  a  second  volume, 
"  On  the  Voyages  of  Discovery  and  Research  within 
the  Arctic  Regions." 

lie  also  wrote  lives  of  Lord  Macartney,  2  vols.  4to ; 
of  Lord  Anson  and  Howe,  each  1  vol.  8vo ;  of  Peter 
the  Great;  and  an  Account  of  the  Mutiny  of  the 
Bounty,   (in   the   "  Family   Library ; ")   "  Travels   in 


Southern 


Africa,"   2 


vols,   4to;    and    "Travels    in 


China  aud  Cochin  China,"  each  1  vol.  4to. 

Li  the  "Encyclopedia  Britannica"  are  ten  or 
twelve  of  his  articles,  and  he  wrote  one  in  the  Edin- 
burgh Review  by  special  request. 

Li  addition  to  these  Sir  John  Barrow  prepared  for 
the  press  innumerable  MSS.  of  travelers  in  all  parts 
of  the  globe,  the  study  of  geography  being  his  great 
delight,  as  is  evidenced  by  his  having  founded  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London,  which  now 
holds  0  high  and  influential  a  position  in  the  learned 
and  scientific  world,  and  has  advanced  so  materially 
the  progress  of  discovery  and  research  in  all  p>arts  of 


4 


INTIiUltL'CTIu.\, 


31 


liV. 

)  to  iirivo  lioro 
In's  excc'lloiit 
t  Buch  an  oiit- 

vrlters  for  t})e 
that  joui'ual 
,  v/ljen  bound 
e  relutinp:  to 
ed  the  fjjreat- 
hlislied,  wore 
followini:^  ])a- 
3 ; — On  Polar 
ir  Basin ;  On 
^^'s  First  Voy- 
t  Expedition ; 
d  Attempt  to 
lition ;  Lyon's 
Land  Expc- 
Besides  these 
-■  of  Voyages 
cond  volume, 
search  within 

■,  2  vols.  4to ; 

vo ;  of  Peter 

utiny  of  the 

"Travels   iu 

Travels    in 

are    ten    or 
in  the  Edin- 

prepared  for 
in  all  parts 

ng  his  great 

founded  the 
which  no'A' 
the  learned 

30  materially 
all  parts  of 


the  globe.  Lastly,  Sir  John  Barrow,  not  long  befo»-e 
his  death,  published  his  own  autobiography,  in  which 
he  records  the  labors,  the  toil,  and  adventure,  of  a  long 
and  honorable  public  life. 

Sir  John  Barrow  has  described,  with  voluminous  caie 
and  minute  research,  the  arduous  services  of  all  tha 
chief  Arctic  voyagers  by  sea  and  land,  and  to  his  voi 
ume  I  must  refer  tliose  who  wish  to  obtain  more  cxten 
sive  details  and  particulars  of  the  voyages  of  ])recedin'! 
centuries.  Jle  has  also  gra])hicany  set  forth,  to  use  his 
own  \V(»rds,  "  their  several  characters  and  conduct,  no 
iinit'»rnily  displayed  in  their  unrtinchinj:  perseveraneo 
in  ditliculties  of  no  ordinary  description,  their  patient 
endurance  of  extreme  suffering,  borne  without  mur- 
muring, and  witli  an  equanimity  and  fortitude  of  mind 
under  the  most  a})])alling  distress,  rarely,  if  ever, 
eqiuiled,  and  such  as  could  only  be  supported  by  a 
superior  degree  of  moral  courage  and  resignation  to 
the  Divine  will  —  displaying  virtues  like  those  of  no 
ordinary  caste,  and  such  as  will  not  fail  to  excite  the 
sympathy,  and  challenge  the  admiration  of  every  right- 
feeling  reader." 

Ilakluyt,  in  his  "  Chronicle  of  Voyages,"  justly  ob- 
Gcrves,  that  we  should  use  much  care  in  preserving  the 
memories  of  the  worthy  acts  of  our  nation. 

Tlie  different  sea  voyages  and  land  journeys  of  the 
present  century  toward  the  Korth  Pole  have  redounded 
to  the  honor  of  our  country,  as  well  as  reflected  credit 
on  the  characters  and  reputation  of  the  officers  engaged 
in  tiiem ;  and  it  is  to  these  I  confine  my  observations. 

The  progress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  regions  has 
been  slow  but  progressive,  and  much  still  within  the 
limits  of  practical  navigation  remains  yet  unexplored. 
As  Englishmen,  we  must  naturally  wish  that  discov- 
eries which  were  first  attempted  by  the  adventurous 
spirit  and  maritime  skill  of  our  conntrymen,  should  be 
finally  achieved  by  the  same  means. 

"  Wil  it  not,"  says  the  worthy  '  preacher,'  Ilakluyt, 
"  in  all  posteritie  be  as  great  a  renown  vnto  our  En- 
glish nation©,  to  have  beene  the  first  discouerers  of  a 


l'IM(illi:s:i    oK    AUtTIC    J)IS(u\i:i;Y. 


I 


( 


BCiX  Ijeyond  tlicj  Xoi-tli  Capo,  (neiicr  ccrtiiiiiely  knowcn 
before,)  and  <»t'u  coniieiiient  |)a-.-au:e  into  tlie.liu^e  em- 
pire of  Russia  by  tlie  Daie  i»t'St.  Nicholas  and  t»t'  tiio 
Iliuor  of  .Dniiia,  a:*  for  the  l\»rtuica!e.s,  to  have  found 
a  sea  beyond  the  Cajte  of  Luona  Esperanza,  and  so 
consequently  a  j)a5ri{u;e  by  sea  into  tlie  East  Indies?" 

I  cordially  agree  with  the  (Quarterly  Review,  tliat 
"  neither  the  country  nor  the  naval  service  will  ever 
believe  they  have  any  cauie  to  re<^ret  voyages  which, 
in  the  eyes  of  foreigners  and  posterity,  must  confer 
lasting  honor  upon  both." 

The'cost  of  these  vovages  has  not  been  great,  while 
the  consequences  will  be  permanent ;  for  it  lias  been 
well  remarked,  by  a  late  writer,  that  "the  record  of 
enterprising  hardihood,  physical  endurance,  and  steady 
perseverance,  displayed  in  overcoming  elements  the 
most  adverse,  Avill  long  remain  among  the  worthiest 
■memorials  of  human  enterprise." 

"  How  shall  I  admire, "  says  Purchas,  "  your  heroic 
courage,  ye  marine  worthies,  beyond  all  names  of 
worthiness !  that  neyther  dread  so  long  cyther  the 
presence  or  absence  of  the  sunne  ;  nor  those  foggy 
mysts,  tempestuous  winds,  cold  blasts,  snowe  and 
hayle  in  the  ayre  ;  nor  the  uneqnall  seas,  which  might 
amaze  the  hearer,  and  amate  the  beholder,  when  the 
Tritons  and  Neptune's  selfe  would  quake  with  chilling 
feai'e  to  behold  such  monstrous  icie  ilands,  renting 
themselves  with  terror  of  their  own  massines,  and  dis- 
dayning  otherwise  both  the  sea's  sovereigntie  and  the 
Bunne's  hottest  violence,  mustering  themselves  in  those 
watery  plaines  where  they  hold  a  continual  civill 
warre,  and  rushing  one  npon  another,  make  windes 
and  waves  give  backe  ;  seeming  to  rent  the  eares  of 
others,  while  they  rent  themselves  with  crashing  and 
sj)litting  their  congealed  armors." 

So  thickly  are  the  Polar  seas  of  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere clustered  with  lands,  that  the  long  winter  months 
serve  to  accumulate  filed  ice  to  a  ])rodigious  extent,  so 
as  to  form  an  almost  impenetrable  barrier  of  hypei 
i)orean  frost — 


I 


iNM;()i>i'i."r""N. 


.•;3 


-*lv  knowcu 
e  liiiu'e  em- 
and  of  tlio 
liave  ti>uii(l 
i/.a,  and  so 
t  Indies  r' 
evicw,  tluit 
e  will  ever 
iges  which, 
[lust  confer 

Tcat,  while 
t  has  been 
record  of 
and  steady 
^nients  the 
3  worthiest 

j'our  heroic 

names  of 

Icyther   the 

lose  foo'iirv 

nowe   and 

licli  might 

when  tlie 

ith  chilling 

is,  renting 

is,  and  dis- 

ie  and  the 

es  in  those 

uial   civill 

ke  windes 

e  eares  of 

ishing  and 

lern  hemi- 
ter  months 
extent,  so 
of  hypei 


"  A  crystul  |i;uiMii-'iil  hy  llu  Ijienlh  of  Ueavcn 
CciiienltHl  tiriii." 

Although  there  are  now  no  new  continents  left  to 
discover, "our  intrepid  JJritish  adventurers  are  but  too 
eager  to  achieve  the  bubble  reputation,  to  hand  down 
their  names  to  future  ages  for  i)atient  endurance,  zeal, 
and  enterprise,  by  explorations  of  the  hidden  mys- 
teries of  — 

"  the  frigid  zone, 
Where,  for  relentless  niontlis,  contitiiial  uii^ht 
Holds  o'er  the  glittering  waste  her  starry  light ;  " 

by  undergoing  perils,  and  enduring  privations  and 
dangers  which  the  mind,  in  its  rellectivc  moments, 
thudders  to  contemplate. 

It  is  fair  to  conjecture  that,  so  intense  is  the  cold, 
and  so  limited  the  summer,  and  consequently  so  short 
the  time  allowed  for  a  transit  within  the  Arctic  circle, 
from  .l-)atHn's  Bay  to  IJehring's  Straits,  that  a  passage, 
even  if  discovered,  will  never  be  of  any  use  as  a  chan- 
nel. It  is  not  likely  that  these  expeditions  would  ever 
have  been  persevered  in  with  so  much  obstinacy,  had 
the  prospects  now  opening  on  the  world  of  more  prac- 
ticable connections  with  the  East  been  known  forty 
vears  ago.  Hereafter,  when  the  sacred  demands  of 
humanity  have  been  answered,  very  little  more  will 
be  heard  about  the  northwest  passage  to  Asia ;  which, 
if  ever  found,  must  be  always  hazardous  and  pro- 
tracted, when  a  short  and  quick  one  can  be  accom- 
plished by  railroads  through  America,  or  canals  across 
the  Isthmus. 

A  thorough  knowledge  of  the  relative  boundaries  of 
lan<l  and  ocean  on  this  our  globe  has,  in  all  ages  and 
by  all  countries,  been  considered  one  of  the  most  im- 
})ortant  desiderata,  and  one  of  the  chief  featm'es  of 
popular  information. 

But  to  no  country  is  this  knowledge  of  such  prac- 
tical utility  and  of  such  essential  importance,  as  to  a 
maritime  nation  like  Great  J^ritain,  whose  mercantile 
marine  visits  every  port,  whose  insular  position  ren- 
ders her  completely  dependent  upon  distant  quarters 


o 


31 


rUOUKKSd    OK    AliLTlC    1)ISC(»V1:KV. 


for  liair  the  nootvisary  suj (plies,  whether  of  tb(xl  or  liix- 
arv,  wliicli  her  native  ■j)(»i;uhiti(>ii  con.^uiue,  or  wliich 
tlie  arts  and  niaimlUeturus,  oi'  which  she  is  tlie  emi)o- 
riiim,  re(juire. 

With  a  vast  and  yeai'ly  increasing  dominion,  cover- 
inu;'  almost  every  region  ot"  the  habitable  globe, — ^tiie 
chart  of  our  colonies  being  a  chart  of  the  woi'ld  in  out- 
lino,  for  we  swee[)  the  globe  ami  touch  every  shore, — 
it  becomes  necessary  that  we  should  keep  pace  with 
the  progress  of  colonization,  by  enlarging,  wherever 
possible,  our  maritime  discoveries,  completing  and  veri- 
fying our  nautical  surveys,  iuii)roving  our  meteorologi- 
cal researches,  opening  up  new  and  speedier  perodical 
pathways  over  the  oceans  which  were  formerly  trav- 
ersed with  so  much  danger,  doubt,  and  difficulty,  and 
maintaining  our  superiority  as  the  greatest  of  maritime 
nations,  by  sustaining  that  high  and  distinguished  rank 
for  naval  eminence  which  has  ever  attached  to  the 
British  name. 

The  arduous  achierements,  however,  of  our  nautical 
discoverers  have  seldom  been  appreciated  or  rewarded 
as  they  deserved.  We  load  our  naval  and  military 
heroes  —  the  men  who  guard  our  wooden  walls  and 
successfully  fight  our  battles  —  Math  titles  and  pen- 
sions ;  we  heap  upon  these,  and  deservedly  so,  princely 
remuneration  and  a.l  manner  of  distinctions;  but  for 
the  heroes  whose  p'r.tient  toil  and  protracted  endurance 
far  surpass  the  turmoil  of  war,  who  peril  their  lives  in 
the  cause  of  science,  many  of  whom  fall  victims  to 
pestilential  climates,  famine,  and  the  host  of  dangers 
which  environ  the  voyager  and  traveler  in  unexplored 
lands  and  unknown  se*i8,  we  have  only  a  place  in  the 
niche  of  iiime. 

What  honors  did  England,  as  a  maritime  nation,  con- 
fer on  Cook,  the  foremost  of  her  naval  heroes,  —  a  man 
whose  life  was  sacrificed  for  his  country  ?  His' widow 
had  an  annuity  of  200?.,  and  his  surviving  childrcii 
261.  each  per  annum.  And  this  is  the  reward  paid  to 
the  most  eminent  of  our  naval  discoverers,  before 
whom  Cabot,  Drake,  Frobisher,  Magellan,  Anson,  and 


th 

all 

Hei 

en 

re? 

iiK 

eo 


INTKODL'CTInX. 


or  lux- 
i*  which 
)  ouipo- 

,  covor- 
},  — tiiu 
[  ill  out- 
liorc,  — 
,co  with 
he rover 
iiid  veri- 
}oroh>gi- 
erudical 
I'ly  triiv- 
Itv,  and 
laritiino 
led  rank 
I  to  the 

nautical 

iwarded 
lilitary 
Is  and 
pen- 

3rincely 
Jilt  for 
iirancc 
ives  in 
;inis  to 
anger.s 

xplored 
in  the 

on,  con- 
-  a  man 

widow 
lildren 
paid  to 

heforo 
on,  and 


■i 


tlie  arctic  adventurers,  [rudsonand  T)iilHn,  —  although 
Jill  eminent  tor  their  discoveries  and  the  important 
services  they  rendered  to  the  cause  of  nautical  sci- 
ence,—  sink  into  insi^nilicance  !  If  we  glance  at  the 
I'esults  of  Cook's  voyages  we  find  that  to  liini  we  are 
indei)ted  for  the  innumerable  discoveries  of  islands  and 
colonies  planted  in  the  Tacilic  ;  that  he  determined 
the  conformation,  and  surveyed  the  numerous  bays 
and  inlets,  of  New  Holland ;  established  the  geogra- 
])hical  ])osition  of  the  northwestern  shores  of  America  ; 
ascertained  the  trending  of  the  ice  and  frozen  shores  to 
the  nurtli  of  Behring's  Straits  ;  approached  nearer  the 
South  Pole,  and  made  more  discoveries  in  the  Austra- 
lian regions,  tlian  ,ill  the  navigators  who  had  preceded 
him.  On  the  very  shores  of  their  vast  empire,  at  the 
extremity  of  Kamtschatka,  his  active  genius  first 
taught  the  Russians  to  examine  the  devious  trendinga 
of  the  hinds  wiiich  border  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Arctic  circle.  He  explored  both 
the  ea&tern  and  western  coasts  above  Behring's  Straits 
to  so  high  a  latitude  as  to  decide,  beyond  doubt,  the 
(piestion  as  to  the  existence  of  a  passage  round  the  two 
Continents.  He  showed  the  Russians  how  to  navigate 
tiie  dangerous  seas  between  the  old  and  the  new 
World ;  for,  as  Coxe  has  remarked,  "  before  his  time, 
every  thing  was  uncertain  and  confused,  and  though 
tliey  had  undoubtedly  reached  the  contincjit  of  Amer- 
ica, yet  they  had  not  ascertained  the  line  of  coast,  nor 
the  separation  or  vicinity  of  the  two  continents  of  Asia 
and  America."  C6xe,  certainly,  does  no  more  than 
justice  to  his  illustrious  countryman  when  he  adds, 
''  the  solution  of  this  important  problem  was  reserved 
for  our  great  navigator,  and  every  Englishman  must 
exult  that  the  discoveries  of  Cook  were  extended  fur- 
ther in  a  single  expedition,  and  at  the  distance  of  half 
the  globe,  than  the  Russians  accomplished  in  a  long 
series  of  years,  and  in  a  region  contiguous  to  their  owu 
empire." 

Look  at  Weddell,  again,  a  private  trader  in  seal- 
skins, who,  in  a  frail  bark  of  160  tons,  made  important 


lid 


rituoui:ss  i>k  auciu;  ln^o»vLUV. 


discovui'ius  ill  tlio  Antarctic  circle,  uiul  Ji  voyai^n  of 
i^rcatcr  Icuj^tli  jiikI   peril,  throiii^ii  u  tliuiisaml  n 
ICO,  tliini  lijid  i>rcvi<>iisly  been  i)crr"»rmc(l  1)V  uii 
gftlor,  ]»iiviiig  the  wiiy  tor  the  more  expeiisivol 


tOS8. 


\ 


t 


IS 


Wed 


nsiirate  with  liln  im 


expedition  under  Sir  Junics 
muneriited  on  ii  scide  com 
services? 

Half  11  century  nijo  the  celebrated  l>ruee  of  Ki 
by  a  Hcries  o4' sound ini^s  and  ol)scrvutic»ns  lakei 
lied  Sea,  now  the  ^reat  hi^-hway  of  overland 
tralHc,  rendered  its  naviijation  more  secure  an( 


tual.     II  ( 


iti 


.ow  was  ho  rewarded  by  the  then  cms 
istry  ? 

Take  a  more  recent  instance  in  the  indefutin-ablo 
energy  of  Lieutenant  AVaL!;horn,  It.  Ts"^.,  the  t'ntei'iirisini;' 
pioneer  of  the  overland  route  to  India.  AVhat  does  not 
the  connncrce,  the  character,  the  reputation,  of  this 
country  owe  to  his  indefatii^able  exertions,  in  brini,nn<;' 
the  metropolis  into  closer  connection  with  our  va-t  and 
important  Indian  empire?  And  what  was  the  reward 
lie  received  for  the  sacriiices  he  made  of  time,  money, 
health  and  life  ?  A  paltry  annuity  to  himself  of  lOoL, 
and  a  pension  to  his  widow  of  2U.  per  annum ! 

Is  it  creditable  to  us,  as  the  first  naval  ])ower  of  tlie 
world,  that  we  should  thus  dole  out  miserable  pittances, 
or  entirely  overlook  the  successful  patriotic  exertions 
and  scientific  enterprises  and  discoveries  of  private 
adventurers,  or  public  commanders  ? 

The  attractions  of  a  summer  voyage  along  the  bays 
and  seas  where  the  sun  shines  for  four  months  at  a  time, 
exploring  the  bare  rocks  and  everlasting  ice,  with  no 
companion  but  the  white  bear  or  the  Arctic  fox,  may 
bo  all  very  romantic  at  a  distance ;  but  the  mere  thought 
of  a  winter  residence  there,  frozen  fast  in  some  solid 
ocean,  with  snow  a  dozen  feet  deep,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  40°  to  50°  below  zero,  and  not  a  glimpse 
of  the  blessed  sun  from  November  to  February,  is 
enough  to  give  a  chill  to  all  adventurous  notions.  But 
the  officers  and  men  engaged  in  the  searching  expedi- 
tions after  Sir  John  Franklin  have  calmly  weighed  all 


I  lies  of 

I      '' 

ly  navi- 

♦      tl 

y  tilled 

p 

dell  re- 

portauL 

f. 

tl 

itmaird. 

1' 

1  in  the 

a 

eastern 

{> 

d  pune- 

*  1 

ng  miu- 

i 


I'lKST    VuVAwK    <»K    vAl'TAlN    Uo^H. 


•  »  t 


iyrt«fo  of 
111  ill's  of 
uy  niivi- 
;l_v  iittod 
•  hk'll  I'c- 
iiportaiit 

LiniiainI, 
ill  in  the 
.  esi.steni 
id  piiiic- 
inij  min- 

tatin'iiUlo 
.'I'lJi-isini;' 

docs  not 
1,  ol'  this 
hriii^ini;' 

va-t  and 
3  reward 

llloUUV, 

of  lOU/., 

f 

• 

r  of  the 

ittaiicci^, 

xurtions 

private 

fie  Lays 
a  time, 
with  no 
)X,  may 
thouc-ht 

J  *!P 

[e  solid 
lomcter 
dimpse 
fary,  is 
But 
jxpedi- 
led  all 


I 


sS 


I 


tlieso  dillicultiis,  and  Ix.ldly  «;ono  forth  to  eneouiiti'r 
the  perils  and  daiii^ers  (»f  these  ley  ^eas  tor  the  sake  of 
tlu  if  nohle  fellow-sailur,  whoso  fate  has  been  au  long  a 
painful  mvstery  to  tlio  world. 

It  has  been  truly  observed,  that '•  this  is  a  service 
Wn-  which  all  otlicers,  however  brave  and  intelli_i;-ent 
tlu'V  may  be,  are  not  eijually  <|ualilieil ;  it  rei[uires  ii 
].e('uliar'^ta('t,  an  in([uisitive  and  persevering'  j)ursnit 
atler  details  of  tact,  not  always  interesting:,  a  ci»ntempt 
(jf  danirer,  and  an  I'lithusiasm  not  to  be  dam[)ed  by 
ordinary  ditliruliies.'' 

The  recortls  which  I  shall  have  to  <,dve  in  these  pa^es 
of  voyauvs  and  travels,  inii»aralleled  intlu-ir  jjcrils, 
their  "duration,  and  the  jd'otracted  sutl'erin^s  which 
many  of  them  entailed  on  the  adventurers,  will  brini;- 
out  in  bold  relief  the  prominent  characters  who  havt) 
lli^ured  in  Arctic  Discovery,  and  whose  names  will 
(le:icend  to  posterity,  embla/.oned  on  the  scroll  of  fame, 
for  tbeir  bravery,  their  patient  endurance,  their  Kkill, 
and,  above  all,  their  lirm  trust  and  reliance  on  that 
Aliiiii;'hty  lieing-  who,  althoug-h  Ue  may  have  triod 
them  sorely,  has  never  utterly  forsaken  them. 

Cai't.  John  Ross's  Yoyage,  1818. 

Ix  ISIS,  His  Royal  Highness  the  Princo  Eegeut 
having  signified  his  pleasure  that  an  attempt  should 
be  made  to  find  a  passage  by  sea  between  tl.'e  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans,  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the 
Admiralty  were  ])leased  to  fit  out  four  vessels  to  pro- 
ceed toward  the  North  Pole,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  John  Boss.  Ko  former  expedition  had  been 
fitted  out  on  so  extensive  a  scale,  or  so  completely 
equipped  in  e\  ery  respect  as  this  one.  The  circum- 
stance which  mainly  le<l  to  the  serding  out  of  these 
vessels,  was  the  open  character  of  the  bays  and  seaa 
in  those  regions,  it  having  been  observed  for  the  pre- 
vious three  years  that  very  unusual  quantities  of  the 
polar  ice  had  floated  down  into  the  Atlantic.     In  the 


38 


riiOGKKSS    OF    AlvCriU   DISCUVKliY. 


year  1817,  Sir  John  Earrow  relates  tliat  the  eastern 
coast  of  Greenhind,  which  had  been  shut  up  with  ico 
for  four  centuries,  was  found  to  be  accessible  from  the 
TOth  to  the  80th  degree  of  latitude,  and  the  interme- 
diate sea  between  it  and  Spitzbergen  was  so  entirely 
open  in  the  latter  parallel,  that  a  Hamburgh  ship  had 
actually  sailed  along  this  track. 

On  the  15th  of  January,  1818,  the  four  ships  were 
put  in  commission  —  the  Isabella,  385  tons,  and  the 
Alexander,  252  tons  — under  Captain  Ross,  to  proceed 
up  the  middle  of  Davis'  Strait,  to  a  high  northern  lati- 
tude, and  then  to  stretch  across  to  the  westward,  in 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  pass  the  northern  extremity 
of  America,  and  reach  Behring's  Strait  by  that  route. 
Those  destined  for  the  Polar  sea  were,  the  Dorothea, 
382  tons,  and  the  Trent,  249  tons,  which  were  ordered 
to  proceed  between  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  and 
seek  a  passage  through  an  open  Polar  sea,  if  such 
should  be  found  in  that  direction. 

I  shall  take  these  voyages  in  the  order  of  their  pub- 
lication, Ross  having  given  to  the  world  the  account 
of  his  voyage  shortly  after  his  return  in  1819 :  while 
the  narrative  of  the  voyage  of  the  Dorothea  and  Trent 
was  only  published  in  18l3,  by  Captain  Beechey,  who 
served  as  Lieutenant  of  the  Trent,  during  the  voyage. 

The  following  were  the  officers,  &c.,  of  the  ships 
under  Captain  Ross :  — 

Isabella. 

Captain  —  John  Ross. 

Lieutenant — W.  Robertson. 

Purser  —  W.  Thorn. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 

Admiralty  Midshipmen  —  A.  M.  Skene  and  James 

Clark  Ross. 
Midshipman  and  Clerk — J.  Bushnan. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  B.  Lewis,  master;  T.  "Wilcox, 

mate. 
Captain  (now  Colonel)  Sabine,  R.  A. 


FIKST    VOYAGE   OF   CAPTAIN    KOSS. 


39 


astern 
ith  ico 
im  the 
tenne- 
atirely 
ip  had 

3  were 
lid  the 
•roceed 
rn  lati- 
ard,  in 
:remity 
t  route. 
>rothea, 
ordered 
en,  and 
if,  such 

3ir  pub- 
acconnt 
while 
Trent 
By,  who 
voyao;e. 
snips 


James 


'ilcox, 


*H 


45  petty  officers,  >eamen,  and  marines. 
Whole  conij^lement,  57. 

• 

Alcxayider. 

Lieutenant    and    Cuinniander  —  William    Edward 

Parry,  (now  Ca])tain  Sir  Edward.) 
Lieutenant — IL  IL  Hoopner,  (a  lirst  rate  artist.) 
I'tn-ser — W.  11.  Hooper. 
Greenland  Tiiots  —  J.  Allison,  master ;  J.  Philips, 

mate. 
Adiiiinilty  Midshipmen — P.  Bisson  and  J.Kius. 
Assistant  Surireon  —  A.  Fisher. 
Clerk  —  J.  liaise. 
28  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Whole  complement,  37. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  the  four  vessels  being  reported 
fit  for  sea,  rendezvonsed  in  Brassa  Sound,  Shetland, 
and  the  two  expeditions  parted  company  on  the  follow- 
ing day  for  their  respective  destinations. 

On  tlie  56ths  the  Isabella  fell  in  with  the  first  ice- 
berg, which  appeared  to  be  about  forty  feet  high  and 
a  thousand  ft-et  long.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  imagine 
any  thing  more  exrjuisite  than  the  variety  of  tints  which 
tiiL'se  icebergs  display  ;  by  night  as  well  as  by  day  they 
glitter  with  a  vividness  of  color  beyond  the  power  of 
art  to  represent.  While  the  white  portions  have  the 
brilliancy  of  silver,  their  colors  are  as  various  and 
splendid  as  those  of  the  rainbow;  their  ever-changing 
disposition  producing  effects  as  singular  as  they  are 
new  and  interesting  to  those  who  have  not  seen  them 
before. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  they  reached  Waygatt  Sound, 
beyond  Disco  Island,  where  they  found  forty-five 
whalers  detained  by  the"  ice.  Waygatt  Island,  from 
observations  taken  on  shore,  was  found  to  be  5°  longi- 
tude and  30  miles  of  latitude  from  the  situation  as  laid 
down  in  the  Admiralty  Charts. 

They  were  not  able  to  get  away  from  here  till  the 
1 20th,  Avhen  the  ice  began  to  break.   By  cutting  passages 


% 


40 


i'i:o<;i:::.ss  uv  xaciu:  Di-.atWAiY. 


throu^;li  the  ico,  and  by  dint  ol*  towing  imd  wjirpinij;-, 
ii  slow  jn'ogress  was  luadu  with  the  bhips  until  tho 
ITth  of  July,  wljcii  two  icu-llocs  closing  in  upon  them, 
threatened  inevitable  destruction,  and  it  was  only  by 
tlie  greatest  exertions  that  they  Love  through  into  open 
water.  The  labors  of  warping,  towing,  and  tracking 
were  subsc([uentiy  very  severe.  This  tracking,  al- 
t.hough  hard  work,  atl'orded  great  amusement  to  tlie 
men,  giving  frequent  occasion  for  the  exercise  of  their 
wit,  when  some  of  the  men  occasionally  fell  in  through 
holes  covered  with  snow  or  weak  parts  of  the  ice. 

Yerv  hi<i:h  mountains  of  land  and  ice  were  seen  to 
tlie  north  side  of  the  bay,  which  he  named  Melville's 
Ijay,  forming  an  im}>assal)le  barrier,  the  precipices 
next  the  sea  being  from  lOOO  to  2000  feet  high. 

( )n  the  2Dth  of  June,  the  Esquinuiux,  John  Sacheusc, 
who  had  accomj)anied  the  expedition  from  England  as 
interpreter,  was  sent  on  shore  to  commniucate  with 
the  natives.  About  a  dozen  came  off  to  visit  the  ship, 
and,  after  being  treated  with  coifee  and  biscuit  in  the 
cabin,  and  having  their  portraits  taken,  they  set  to 
dancing  Scotch  reels  on  the  deck  of  the  Isabella  with 
the  sailors. 

Captain  Ross  gives  a  pleasant  description  of  this 
scene  — ''  Sacheuse's  mirth  and  joy  exceeded  all 
bounds ;  and  with  a  good-humored  officiousness,  justi- 
fied by  the  important  distinction  which  his  superior 
knowledge  now  gave  him,  he  performed  the  office  of 
master  of  the  ceremonies.  An  Esquimaux  M.  C.  to  a 
ball  on  the  deck  of  one  of  II.  M.  ships  in  the  icy  seas 
of  Greenland,  was  an  office  somewhat  new,  but  Kash 
himself  could  not  have  performed  his  functions  in  a 
manner  more  appropriate.  It  did  not  belong  even  to 
Nash  to  combine  in  his  own  person,  like  Jack,  the  dis- 
cordant qualifications  of  seaman,  interpreter,  draughts- 
man, and  master  of  ceremonies  to  a  ball,  with  those 
of  an  active  fisher  of  seals  and  a  hunter  of  white  bears. 
A  daughter  of  the  Danish  resident  (by  in  Esquimaux 
woman,)  about  eighteen  years  of  age,  and  by  far  the 
best  looking  of  the  half-caste  group,  was  the  object  of 


FIIIST    VoVAiii;    "!••    CAl'IAIX    KOSS. 


41 


.til    tho 
1  tiieiii, 

to  open 
rackini^ 
mg,  iii- 
to  the 
of  thL■il• 
tlll•o\lgll 

CO. 

seen  to 
elville'ri 
acipices 
I. 

icheuse, 
j;lund  us 
ite  with 
he  ship, 
it  in  the 
\y  set  to 

la  with 

of  this 
ed    all 
s,  justi- 
uperior 
ffice  of 
C.  to  a 
icy  seas 
it  Kasli 
ms  in  a 
even  to 
the  dis- 
raughts- 
li  those 
e  bears, 
uimaux 
far  the 
>iect  of 


Jack's  particular  attentions;  which  being  observed  by 
one  of  our  ullicers,  lie  gave  him  a  hidy's  shawl,  orna- 
jueuted  with  spangles,  as  an  otleringfor  her  acce]>tance. 
]le  ])resented  it  in  a  most  respectful,  and  nut  inigrace- 
ful  manner  to  the  damsel,  who  bashfully  took  a  pew- 
ter ring  from  her  linger  and  gave  it  to  him  in  return, 
rewarding  him,  at  the  same  time,  with  an  eloquent 
emile,  which  could  leave  no  doubt  on  our  Ks(|uiman\'s 
mind  that  he  had  made  an  impression  on  her  heart. ''■•^* 
On  tiie  5th  of  August  the  little  auks  \Mergulfus  alle,) 
"Were  exceedingly  abundant,  and  many  were  shot  for 
food,  as  was  also  a  large  gull,  two  feet  five  inches  in 
length,  which,  when  killed,  disgorged  one  of  these 
little  birds,  entire. 

A  fortnight  later,  on  two  boats  being  sent  from  the 

Isabella  to  procure  as  many  of  these  birds  as  possible, 

,ic>r  the  purpose  of  ])ro3erving  them  in  ice,  they  re- 

,turned  at  inidnight  with  a  boat-load  of  about  1500, 

jliaving  on  an  average,  killed  fifteen  at  each  shot.     The 

boats  of  the    Alexander  were   nearly  as   successful. 

iriiese  birds  were  afterward  served  daily  to  each  man, 

and,  among  other  \vays  of  dressing  them,  they  were 

Kbund  to  make  excellent  soup  —  not  inferior  to  hare 

ioup.     iS'ot  less  than  two  hundred  auks  were  shot  ou 

0\e  0th  of  August,  and  served  out  to  the  ships'  compa- 

'pies,  among  whose  victuals  they  ])roved  an  agreeable 
4|ariety,  not  having  the  fishy  flavor  that  miglit  be  ex- 

"iected  from  their  food,  which  consists  of 'crustacea, 
jpiall  fishes,  mollusca,  or  marine  vegetables. 
I  On  the  Tth  of  August  the  ships  were  placed  in  a 
iiost  critical  situation' by  a  gale  of  wind.     The  Isabella 

.  fds  lifted  by  the  pressure  of  ice  floes  on  each  side  of 
|cr,  and  it  was  doubted  M'hether  the  vessel  could  long 
'"  ithstand   the   grips  and  concussions  she  sustained'^ 
J  every  support  threatened  to  give  way,  the  beams  in 
e  hold   began   to  bend,  and   the   iron  water-tanks 


ittled  tO£i-ether.     The  tv; 


o  vessels  were  thrown  with 


iolent  concussion  against  each  other,  th 


e  ice-anchors 


.* 


Vol.  I,  IX  67,  68. 


42 


VLO'Jil'.'.lii    i/V 


'■;iv:  iHi  c>jvi:i;v. 


iind  c;il)]o-i  Lrolco  one  after  tlie  other,*  a  boat  at  tiio 
steni  Wiis  smashed  in  the  collision^  and  the  ma:;ts 
Nvere  liourlv  exitected  to  ii-o  ])V  the  botird ;  but  at  this 
juncture,  wlien  certain  destruction  was  momentarily 
looked  for,  In.the  fnerclful  interposition  of  Providence 
tlie  lields  of' ice  suddenly  opened  and  formed  a  clear 
passage  for  the  ships." 

A  singular  physical  feature  was  noticed  on  the  part 
of  the  coast  nea^r  Cape  Dudley  Diggcs  : — "W'  have 
discovered,  (says  lloss,)  that  the  snow  on  the  face  of 
.the  cliifs  presents  an  appearance  both  novel  and  inter- 
f.-ting,  being  apparently  stained  or  covered  by  some 
Eubstance  whicii  gave  it  a  deej)  crimson  color.  This 
snow  was  jienetrated  in  many  places  to  a  depth  of  ten 
or  twelve  feet  by  the  coloring  matter."  There  is  noth- 
ing new,  however,  according  to  JiJarrow,  in  the  discov- 
ery of  red  snow.  Plinv,  and  other  writers  of  his  time 
mention  it.  Saussui-e  found  it  in  various  parts  of  the 
Alps  ;  Martin  found  it  in  Spitzbergen,  and  no  doubt 
it  is  to  be  met  with  in  most  alpine  regions. 

In  the  course  of  this  tedious,  and  often  laborious 
])rogres3  through  the  ice,  it  became  necessary  to  keep 
the  whole  of  the  crew  at  the  most  fatiguing  work,  some- 
times for  several  days  and  nights  without  intermission. 
When  this  was  the  case,  an  extra  meal  was  served  to 
them  at  niidnight,  generally  of  preserved  meat ;  and 
it  was  found  that  this  nourishment,  when  the  mind 
and  body  were  both  occupied,  and  the  sun  continually 
present,  rendered  them  capable  of  remaining  without 
sleep,  so  that  they  often  ])assed  three  days  in  this  man- 
ner without  any  visible  inconvenience,  returning  after 
a  meal  to  their  labor  on  the  ice  or  in  the  boats  quite 
refreshed,  and  continuing  at  it  without  a  murmur. 

After  nraking  hasty  and  very  cursory  examinations 
of  Smith's  and  Jones'  Sounds,  Ross  arrived,  on  the 
oOth  of  August,  off  the  extensive  inlet,  named  by  Baf- 
fin, Lancaster  Sound.  The  entrance  was  perfectly 
clear,  and  the  soundings  ranged  from  650  to  1000  fiitli- 
oms.  I  shall  now  quote  Koss's  own  observations  on 
this  subject,  because  from  his  unfortunate  report  of  ;i 


A. 


I'lUST   VoVAGK    01'"   CAl'TAIN    KOSS. 


43 


it  at  tiic 
lie  niii;ts 
lit  at  this 
nentarilv 
[•ovidence 
d  a  clear 

1  the  part 
^Y  Lave 
e  face  of 
and  inter- 
by  some 
lor.  This 
pth  of  ten 
re  is  noth- 
he  discov- 
f  his  time 
irts  of  the 
.  no  doubt 

laborious 
■y  to  keep 
)rk,  gome- 
jrmission. 
served  to 
leat ;   and 
Ithe  mind 
>ntinually 
Ig  without 
this  man- 
tling after 
loats  quite 
Irmur. 
minations 
Id,  on  the 
)d  by  Biii- 
perfectlv 
LOGO  ftitli- 
[-ations  on 
)port  of  ;i 


ranu'c  called  the  Croker  mountains,  stretching  across 
thirSlralt,  has  ;vsulted  much  of  the  ridicule  and  dis- 
credit which  has  attached  to  his  accnimts,  and  chtuded 
his  earlv  reputation —  "  On  the  ;rist  (he  says)  we  dis- 
co ver^'d,  fur  tiic  iirst  time,  that  the  hind-cxtiMidcd  from 
tlie  sonth  two-tliirds  across  this  apparent  Strait;    l>nt 
the  fog  which  continually  occuj)ied  that  (piartcr,  oh- 
■  Ecurt'cfits  real   ligurc.     r)uring  the  day  imu'h  interest 
was  excited  on  hoard  by  tlie  ai)]teai'ance  of  this  Strait. 
T!ie  oviieral  opinion,  however,  was,  that  it  was  only  an 
inlctr    TIk'  Ian  I  was  i)artially  seen  extending  across/, 
the  yellow  sky  was  ])erceptible.     At  a  little-bi'fore  four 
o'clock  A.  M.,'^the  land  was  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the 
inlet  by  the  otHcers  of  the  watch,  but  before  I  got  on 
deck  {{  space  of  about  seven  degrees  of  the  coni])ass 
was  obscured   hy  the  tog.     The  land  which  I  thoii  saw 
was  a  high  ridge  of  nionntains  extending'directly  aci'oss 
'  the  bottom  of  the  inlet.     This  chain  appeared  extremely 
hii'-h  in  the  center.     AlthoUi>:h  a  passa^'c  in  this  direc- 
tion  appeared  hopeless,  I  was  determined  to  ex])lore  it 
coniph'tely.     I  therefore  continued  all  sail.     i^Lr.  IJev- 
.erly.  tlie  surgeon,  who  was  the  most  sanguine,  v\-ent  n]) 
,^to  the  crow's  nest,  and  at  twelve  re]»ortod  to  me  that 
|])elbre  it  became  thick  he  had  seen  the  land  across  the 
Ibay,  except  for  a  very  short  space. 
f     "-'At  three,  I  went  on  deck  ;  it  completely  cleared  ix)r 
,;^ten  minutes,  M'lien  I  distinctly  saw  the  land  round  the 
bottom  of  the  bay,  forming  a  chain  of  mountains  con- 
'nected  with  those  Avhich  extended  alono;  the  noi'th  and 
|B0uth  side.     This  land  appeared  to  be  at  the  distance 
?of  eight  leagues,  and  Mr.  Lewis,  the  master,  and  James 
fllaig,  leading  man,  being  sent  for,  they  took  its  bcar- 
-  linii's,  which  were  inserted  in  the  loic-     At  this  nuunent 
^I  also  saw  a  continuity  of  ice  at  the  distance  of  seven 
limiles,  extending  from  one  side  of  the  buy  to  the  other, 
'^between  the  nearest  cape  to  the  north,  which  I  named 
atter  Sir  George  Warrender,  and  that  to  the  sonth, 
which  was  named  after  Yiscount  Castlereagh.     The 
mountains,  which  occupied  the  center,  in  a  north  and 


u 


l'lH.)t.liK^.i    UF    AIUJTIC    I)I^:C<>VJ•:KV. 


soiitli  (lln'ctioii,  M'LTo  named  Crukur's  Muiiiitiiiiis,  after 
the  Secretary  to  tlie  Admiralty."" 

Tliey  next  proceeded  to  Possession  Bay,  at  tlie  en- 
trance of  the  Strait,  wliere  a  great  many  animals  were 
observed.  Deer,  fox,  ermine,  bears,  and  hares,  were 
cither  seen,  or  ])roved  to  be  in  abundance  by  their 
tracks,  and  the  skeleton  of  a  whale  was  found  stranded 
about  500  yards  beyond  high-water-mark.  Finding,  as 
Itoss  supposed,  no  outlet  through  Lancaster  Strait,  the 
vessels  continued  their  progress  to  the  south^^ard,  ex- 
■])loring  the  western  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay  to  Pond's 
Bay,  and  Booth's  Inlet,  discovering  the  trending  of  tlio 
land,  which  he  named  Korth  Galloway,  and  Xorth 
Ayr  to  Cape  Adair,  and  Scott's  Bay. 

On  Septendjcr  the  10th,  they  landed  on  an  island 
near  Caj^e  Eglington,  which  was  named  Agnes'  Monu- 
ment. A  flag-staff  and  a  bottle,  with  an  account  of 
their  pi'oceedings  was  set  up.  The  remains  of  a  tem- 
porary habitation  of  some  of  the  Esquimaux  were  here 
observed,  with  a  fire-place,  part  of  a  human  skull,  a 
broken  stone  vessel,  some  bones  of  a  seal,  burnt  wood, 
part  of  a  sledge,  and  tracks  of  dogs,  &c. 

While  the  boat  was  absent,  tw^o  large  bears  swam  oft' 
to  the  ships,  which  were  at  the  distance  of  six  miles 
from  tlie  land.  They  reached  the  Alexander,  and  were 
immediately  attacked  by  the  boats  of  that  ship,  and 
killed.  One,  which  was  shot  through  the  head,  unfor- 
tunately sank  ;  the  other,  on  being  wounded,  attacked 
the  boats,  and  showed  considerable  play,  but  was  at 
length  secured  and  fowled  to  the  Isabella  by  the  boats 
of  both  ships.  The  animal  weighed  1131  i  lbs.,  besides 
the  blood  it  had  lost,  which  was  estimated  at  30  lbs. 
more. 

On  the  following  day,  Lieut.  Parry  was  sent  on  shore 
to  examine  an  iceberg,  which  was  found  to  be  4109 
yards  long,  3SG9  yards  broad,  and  51  feet  high,  being 
aground  in  61  fothoms.  When  they  had  ascended  to 
the  top,  which  was  perfectly  flat,  they  found  a  huge 


w 

to 

o'.l 


(■•>1 

br 
ll 


*  X' 


Vol.  T,  p.  211-4G,  8vo,  cd. 


t 


VcVAt.K    OF    r.i  I  IIAN    AND    FiJANKLIX. 


45 


11:^,  after 

the  cn- 
als  were 
er;,  M-oro 
by  tlioir 
nranded 
1(1  ing.  as 
trait,  the 
\arcl,  t'X- 

ig  of  the 
d  Xorth 

n  island 
s'  Muini- 
:'Oiint  of 
)f  a  tem- 
»-cre  here 
skull,  a 
nt  wood, 

;wam  off 

ix  miles 

Ind  were 

nip,  and 

1,  iiniur- 

ittaeked 

was  at 

Ihe  boats 

besides 

30  lbs. 

)n  shore 

i  41G9 

.,  being 

ided  to 

a  liugo 


white  bear  in  fjiiiet  possession  of  the  mass,  who,  nnieh 
to  tlitir  niortilleation  and  a>tonisliment,  phmged  with- 
out hesitntion  into  tlie  sea  from  tlie  edge  of  tiie  preei- 
])i('e.  —'lich  was  lifty  feet  liigh. 

I'rom  earetul  observation  it  was  found  that  there  was 

Jno  Bueh  land   in  the  center  of  Davis'  Strait  as  James' 

Jjshuid,  which  was  laid  down    in  most  of  the  cliarts. 

j!>,'t)thlng  deserving  of  notice  occurred  "n  the  snl)se<jnent 
■(••.nr<(M»f  the  vessels  past  Cajie  AValsingliam  to  Cuni- 
bei'land  Strait. 

The  1st  of  October  liavinp;  arrived,  the  limit  to  which 
liis  instructions  p(>rmitted  lum  to  remain,  out,  Ivoss 
FJiaped  his  conrse  homeward,  and  after  encountering  a 
Fi'vei-e  gale  olf  Cape  Farewell,  arrived  in  (Trimsby 
]I(iads  on  the  14th  of  November.  As  respects  the  pur- 
l»ose  of  Arctic  discoverv,  this  vovao-c  mav  be  considered 

labiKot  a  blank,  none  of  the  important  inlets  and  sounds 
of  IJallin's  Day  having  been  explored,  and  all  that  was 
done  was  to  define  more  clearly  the  land-bounds  of 
]):ivi>'  Strait  and  EafHn's  Bay,  if  we  exce])t  the  valn- 
v;able  magnetic  and  other  observations  made  by  Caj»tain 
Sabine.  The  commander  of  the  expedition  was  pro- 
noted  to  tin?  rank  of  cajitain  on  paying  off  the  ships  in 
)ecend  »or,  I^IS. 
v<  The  account  of  his  voyage,  published  by  Capt.  Tioss, 
.^  of  the  most  meager  and  uninteresting  descrii>tion, 
mnd  more  than  half  tilled  with  dry  details  of  the  outfit, 
Cojties  of  his  instructions,  of  his  routine  letters  and 
orders  to  his  officers,  c^c. 
I 

4  BuCHAN   AND   FrAXKLIN. 

Dorot/oa  and  TrfDtJo  J\>7e,  1^'i^. 

L\  conjunction  with  the  expedition  of  Captain  John 

loss,  was  that  sent  out  to  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  and 

)f  which  Captain  Bcecliy  has  published  a  most  inter- 

jsting  account,  embellished  with  some  very  elegant 

'**^llu^trations  fi'om  his  pencil.     The  chai'ge   of  it  was 

"  iven  to  Captain  D.  Buchan,  who  had,  a  few  years  pre- 

ilou:dy,  c<»nducted  a  ^xn-y  interesting  expedition  into 


■ko 


rjiuGlll.t;5   (JL    A^a  iH;   J  1."  <'\  i;i:v 


the  interior  of  XcwtuiiiKlhiiKl.  Tlie  lir.-I  an*!  iiin.-t  im- 
])urt;uit  object  of  tiii.s  e.\i>e<liti<»ii  was  the  (li>c'«»very  t>f 
a  piu^sage  over  or  as  near  the  I'ole,  a>  iiii::iit  l>e  [)t)->il)Ie, 
and  tlirongli  BeliringV  Straits  into  the  J-'aeiiie.  J>nt  it 
was  also  lioped  that  it  might  at  the  same  time  l)e  the 
means  of  improving  the  geogra]»]iy  and  liydrograpliy 
i»f  tlie  Arctic  regicms,  of  wliicli  so  little  was  at  tiiat  time 
known,  and  contriinite  to  the  advancement  of  scieKce 
and  natural  knowledm',  Tiie  oitjects  to  wliicli  attention 
was  si>ecially  jiointed  in  the  Admiralty  instruetions, 
were  the  variation  and  inclination  of  the  magnetic  uw- 
dle,  the  intensity  of  the  magnetic  force,  and  how  far  it 
is  affected  l)y  atmosj)lierical  electricity  ;  the  tempei'a- 
tnre  of  the  air,  the  dip  of  the  horizon,  refniction,  heiglit 
of  the  tides,  set  and  velocity  of  the  currents,  (ie])ths 
and  soundings  of  the  sea.  Collections  of  specimens  to 
illustrate  the  animal,  mineral  and  vegetable  kingdoms, 
were  also  directed  to  be  made. 

The  officers  and  crewa2)pt»iiited  to  these  vessels  were  : 

Do/'of/t<a,  382  tons. 

Captain  —  David  Buchan. 
Lieutenant  —  A.  Morel  1. 
Surgeon  —  John  Duke. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  "W.  G.  Borland. 
Purser  —  John  Jermain. 
Astronomer —  George  Fisher. 
■  Admiralty  Mates  —  C.  Palmer  and  W.  J.  Dealy. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  P.  Bruce,  master  ;  G.  Crawfurd, 

mate. 
45  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  55. 

Trait,  249  tons. 

Lieutenant  and  Commander  —  John  Franklin. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  J*eecliy,  (artist.) 

Purser  —  AV.  Barrett. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  A.  Gilfillan. 

Admiralty  Mates — A.  Reid  and  George  Back. 

Grcenhmd  Pih>l^  —  0.  Fife,  master  ;  G.  Xir1)y,  nvi'C. 

30  petty  otlicers  and  seamen. 

Total  comy-kiuent.  OS. 


v->VA(ii;  ui'   v.jj'iix:^   aM'  H;ANi;Li:>'. 


>i: 


tvcrv  of 
,     IJiit  it 

lO  1)C    tlii' 

that  time 
f  scioKce 
atteiiti'iu 
[•I'lK'tiuiis, 

IR'tif  uvv- 

luw  far  it 
toiiipL'i'a- 
>ii,  lic'iii'Lt 
s,  depths 
cinieiis  to 
liiigdoms, 


jcls  were : 


3ealy. 
awfurd, 


lin. 


ack. 


•Ity,  nsfiC. 


i  HaviuLC  ItiHMi  properly  iittod  for  tlic  service,  ami  ta- 
■^vn  oil  hoard  two  years'  provisions,  the  ships  ^ailed  oii^ 
tlie  2:)t!i  of  April.  The  Trent  had  hardly  «:]jot  elear  of 
tlic  river  before  she  s])rang  a  leak,  and  was  (letaine(|  in 
ilio  pore  of  Lerwick  nearly  a  fortni«j;-ht  under^ioiiiL; 
rvj^aii-s. 

On  the  isth  of  ^[ay,  the  ships  encountered  a  sevei'o 
i|ah',  and  \nider  even'slorni  stay-sails  were  buried  ^ui;- 
Will"  deep  in  the  waves.  On  the  2-1-th  they  sij-'htvd 
Ghcrie  Island,  situated  in  lat.  74^'  ;53'  N.,  andjon.;-.  i; 
il)'  I'.,  iorinerlv  so  notod  for  its  iisherv,  hein:;-  ir.;;;Ii 
frei[uented  hy  walrusses,  and  for  many  years  the  .Mus- 
covy (.'onipaiiy  carried  on  a  lucraiive  trade  by  sendinii,- 
glii[)s  to  the  island  for  oil,  as  many  as  a  thousand  ani- 
|nals  being  often  cajjtured  by  the  crew  of  a  bingle  ship 
in  the  course  of  six  or  seven  hours. 
^  The  ]»ro'^ress  of  the  discovery  ships  through  the  sntall 
fi\^'j.<  and  hugv)  nuisses  of  iee  which  floated  in  succe.- - 
|i'n  pa?:t,  was  slow,  and  the.u\  from  thi-ir  novelty,  w;'re 
|e;j:arded  with  ])eculiar  attention  from  tiie  grotesipic 
lluiji.'s  tliey  assume.  The  progress  of  a  vessel  through 
fiich  a  labyrinth  of  frozen  masses  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
lesling  sights  that  oifer  in  the  Arctic  seas,  ami  ke])t 
le  olHcers  and  crew  out  of  their  beds  till  a  late  hour 
latching  the  scene.  Capt.  Lecchey,  the  graphic  luir- 
iBtor  of  the  voyage,  thus  describes  the  general  impres- 
(ion  created: — "There  was  besides,  on  this  occasion, 
Im  additional  motive  for  remaining  np;  very  few  of 
ep  had  ever  seen  the  sun  at  midnight,  and  this  night 
liapponing  to  be  particularly  clear,  liis  broad  red  disc, 
#iri(»usly  distorted  by  refraction,  and  swee]>ing  majes- 
k-ally  along  the  northern  horizon,  was  an  object  of  im- 
osing  grandeur,  wdiich  riveted  to  the  deck  some  of  our 
few,  M'ho  would  perhaps  have  beheld  with  indifferences 
icless  imposing  effect  of  the  icebergs;  or  it  might  have 
jcn  a  combination  of  both  these  phenomena  ;  for  it 
mnot  be  denied  that  the  novelty,  occasioned  by  the 
loating  masses,  was  materially  heightened  by  the  sin- 
mlar  effect  produced  by  the  very  low  altitude  at  which 
lie  sun  cast  his  liery  beams  over  the  icy  surface  of  the 


•IS 


I'UiKiKKSS    i>V    AlJillC    I»I.s«o\i;uv 


8ea.  Tlio  Yixys  were  too  oLliqno  to  illiiiniiuito  more  tliaii 
the  inequalities  of  tlie  tloes,  and  talliiiuj  thus  ]»arti;illy 
on  the  grotesque  Bliapes,  either  really  assumed  l>y  the 
ice  or  distorted  l)y  the  une([ual  retraetioii  ot'  tiie  atiii:is- 
]>here,  i-o  l)etrayed  tlie  iniag'inatiou  t!iat  it  recpiired  uo 
jU'reat  exertion  of  fancy  to  trace  in  various  directions  ar- 
eliitectural  edilices,  i^rottos  and  caves  liere  and  thei'e 
i-litterinui:  as  if  with  i)recious  metals.  80  ujencrallv,  in- 
deed,  was  the  decej»tion  a<lmitted,  that,  in  directing' 
the  rout(!  of  the  vessel  from  aloft,  wg  for  awhile  dt'viated 
from  our  luuitical  phraseoloi',T,  and  shaped  ourcoursii 
for  a  cliurch,  a  tov.er,  a  hridge,  or  some  similar  structure, 
instead  of  for  Ium]is  of  ice,  which  were  usually  desig- 
nated by  less  elegant  appellations.'" 

The  increasing  ditliculticsof  this  ice  navigation  soon, 
hovv'ever,  directed  their  attention  from  ronuince  to  the 
reality  of  their  ])Ositi()n,  the  perils  of  which  soon  he- 
came  alarmingly  ap[)arent. 

"TJie  streams  of  ice,  between  which  wc  at  first  ymr- 
suod  our  serjientino  course  M'ith  comparative  ease,  grad- 
ually became  more  narrow,  and  at  length  so  impeded 
the  navigation,  that  it  became  necessary  to  run  the  shi])s 
against  some  of  these  imaginar3^cdiiices,  in  orderto  turn 
them  aside.  Even  this  did  not  always  succeed,  as  somo 
were  so  substantial  and  immoveable,  tliat  the  vessel  =; 
glanced  off  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  channel,  and 
then  became  for  a  time  embedded  in  tlie  ice.  Thus  cir- 
cumstanced,  a  vessel  has  no  other  resource  than  that  of 
patiently  awaiting  the  change  of  position  in  the  ice,  of' 
which  slie  must  take  every  advantage,  or  she  Avill  settle 
bodily  to  leeward,  and  become  completely  entangled." 

On  the  20th  the  ships  sighted  tho'southern  ])romon- 
tory  of  Spitxbergen,  and  on  the  2Sth,  Avhilc  plying  t<> 
windward  on  the  western  side,  wx're  overtaken  bv  a 
violent  gale  at  southwest,  in  Avhich  they  parted  com- 
pany. The  w^eather  was  very  severe,  "The  snow  fell 
in  heavy  showers,  and  several  tons  weight  of  ice  accu- 
mulated about  the  sides  of  the  brig,  (the  Trent,)  and  form 
ed  a  complete  casing  to  the  planks,  which  received  an 
additional  layer  at  each  plunge  of  the  vessel.  So  great 


W(.' 

alt; 
wil 
Stic 
lufi 


fthe 
■fwitli 


\'W 


VuYA(n':    OK    IJLCIIA.N    AM)    !•  KA.NKI.IN. 


40 


(ire  tliun 
|i:irtiaily 
I  l)V  liic 
0  iitmos- 
ulrt'd  110 
itions  ai'- 

11(1    tluTl' 

rallv,  in- 
lii'L'ctin^' 
(U'viatiHl 
111"  course 
t  I'll  ct  lire, 
ly  flesiii'- 

ioii  POoii, 

iCC  to  tlk'. 

soon  1)('- 

first  ])nr- 
"iso,  a'rad- 
iinpodc"! 

10  8liii).s 
or  to  turn 

as  BOiuo 
Ye?so]^ 
nel,  and 
ilnis  cir- 
n  that  of 

0  ice,  of 

11  settle' 
angled." 

n'oinoii- 
)lvin2:  to 
en  by  ii 
;ed  com- 
?now  fell 
ICO  accii- 
lul  form 
3ived  iw. 
50  great 


indeed,  wa-  the  acciimnlatiou  al)oiit  the  bouv,  that  wo 
were  oMifr<'d  to  cut  it  away  rei)v'atedly  with  axes  to  re- 
lieve the  how-sprit  from  the  enormous  weight  that  was 
attached  to  it ;  and  tiie  ropes  were  so  thickly  covered 
with  ice,  that  it  was  nece>sary  to  bent  them^  with  largo 
h\.\rk>  lo  keej)  thcin  in  a  state  of  rt-adiness  for  any  ovu- 
liifion  that  might  he  rendered  necessary,  either^  by  tho 
a]'i)('ai'a!ice  of  ice  to  leeward,  or  by  u  change  of  wind." 
<  )i\  the  gait'  ai)ating,  i-ieutenant  Fi'anklin  found  him- 
Feii"  surrounded  by  tlie  main  body  of  ice  in  hit.  Sir  N., 
and  had  much  d'ilHcnhy  in  extricating  the  vessel. — 
ilad  this  formidable  liody  Ixivn  encountered  in  thick 
wi-arher,  whd  '  :(!idding  betore  a  gale  of  -wind,  there 
AVi.uld  have  Ih'.'U  vci'v  litiK-  chance  of  saving  either  the 
vessels  or  the  crews.  "  'J'he  Trent  fortunately  fell  in  with 
her  consort,  the  Dorothea.  ])revious  to  entering  the  ap- 
])uinted  reiKb'/.vous  at  .Mngilah'iia  15ay,  on  tho  3d  of 
June.  This  commodious  inlet  being  the  lirst  j)ort  tlii'y 
liad  anchored  at  in  the  ])ohir  regions,  possessed  many 
obJ€icts  to  engage  attention.  AV'hat  particuliirly  struck 
them  was  the  brilliancy  of  the  atmosphere,  the  ])cace- 
fiil  novelty  of  the  scene,  and  the  gnmdeur  of  the  vari- 
^ons  objects  with  which  nature  has  >tored  these  unfn.'- 
iqiiented  regions.  The  anchoi'ago  is  fornu'd  by  rugged 
[mountains,  which  ri.^e  ])recI[)itonsly  to  the  height  of 
liibout  *»0()0  fi^et.  Deep  valh\vs  and  glens  occur  between 
wthe  ranrjcs,  the  ijreater  part  of  whi<-h  are  either  iilled 
'with  immense  beds  of  snow,  or  with  glaciers,  sh:>ping 
frtmi  the  summits  of  the  mountainous  margin  to  tho 
?very  edge  of  the  sea. 

The  bay  is  rendered  conspicuous  by  four  huge  gla- 
s  ciers,  of  which  tho  most  remarkable,  though  the  small- 
:  est  in  size,  is  situated  200  feet  above  the  sea,  on  tho 
slope  of  a  mountain.     From  its  peculiar  a]>pcarance 
this  glacier  has  been  termed  the  Hanging  Iceberg. 
Its  position  is  such  that  it  seems  as  if  a  very  small 
^  matter  Avoiild  detach  it  from  the  mountain,  and  precip- 
itate it  into  the  sea.     ^Vnd,  indeed,  large  portions  of  its 
front  do  occasionally  break  away  and  fall  with  head- 
long impetuosity  upon  the  beach,  to  tho  great  hazard 


"^ 


lit 


i 


CO 


riiUOUIi-SS    OF   AUCTIC    DISCDVKUY. 


of  any  boat  that  may  clianco  t(j  l)C  near,  Tlic  lariri'ht 
of  tlic'HO  glaciers  occupies  the  liead  of  tlie  huv,  and, 
ftccordin*^  to  Captain  Heechey's  account,  extends  I'imiii 
two  to  three  niik'S  inhmd.  JSunierous  hirge  rents  in  its 
upper  surface  liavo  caused  it  to  l)ear  a  resenilihince  to 
the  ruts  left  hv  a  wagon  ;  hence  it  was  named  l)y  the 
voyagers  the  "^Vagon  Way."  Tlie  frontager  of  this  ghi- 
cicr  presents  a  perpendicular  siu'face  of  iMH)  feet  in 
liciglit,  l)y  7000  feet  in  length.     Mountain  masses — 

"  Whoso  blocks  of  8.'\p])t>ire  socm  to  niorlal  cyo 
Hewn  from  curuloan  (lunnii'n  in  the  Hky, 
With  Rliiciur  biitllutiicnlH  tliiit  crowd  th((  spheres, 
Tho  slow  crt'utioii  of  six  thomaiul  years, 
Amidst  immensity  they  towir  siiltlimi', 
Winter's  eternal  jmlace,  built  by  Time." 

At  the  head  of  tho  bay  tliere  is  a  liigh  ])yramidal 
itioiintain  of  granite,  termed  llotge  Hill,  from  tlic  myr- 
iads of  small  birds  of  tliat  name  M-liieh  fivcjiient  its 
base,  and  appear  to  jHvfer  its  environs  to  every  otlicr 

Eart  of  tho  liarbor.  "Tliey  are  so  numerous  that  wo 
avo  frequently  seen  an  uninterrupted  lino  of  them  ex- 
tending full  half  way  over  the  bay,  or  to  a  distance  «<f 
more  than  three  miles,  and  so  close  together  that  thirty 
have  fallen  at  one  shot.  This  living  column,  on  an  aver- 
age, might  have  been  about  six  yards  broad,  and  as 
many  deep  ;  so  that,  allowing  sixteen  birds  to  a  cubic 
yard,  there  must  have  been  nearly  four  millions  of  birds 
on  the  wing  at  one  time.  The  number  I  have  given  cer- 
tainly seems  large ;  yet  when  it  is  told  that  tlie  littlo 
rotges  rise  in  such  numbers  as  completely  to  darken 
tho  air,  and  that  their  chorus  is  distinctly  andibie  at  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  the  estimate  will  not  be  thouglit 
to  bear  any  reduction." 

One  of  their  earliest  excursions  in  this  bay  was  an 
attempt  *o  ascend  the  peak  of  Rotge  Hill, "upon  wliich," 
says  Captain  Beechey,  "may  now,  perhaps,  be  seen  jil; 
the  height  of  about  2000  feet,  a  staff  that  once  carried 
a  red  flag,  which  was  planted  there  to  mark  the  great- 
est height  we  were  able  to  attain,  partly  in  consequences 
of  the  steepness  of  the  ascent,  but  mainly  on  account 
of  the  detached  masses  of  rock  which  a  very  slight 


II 


el 


VOVAOn   OF   nUCIIAN   AND   FIJANICMX. 


f.l 


iiiv,  and, 
lids  from 
nts  in  it.s 

illllU'O  to 

il  l)y  tho 
"this  <i;Isi- 
)  feet    in 

38C8 


y'riiniidiil 
the  myr- 
jucnt  its 
jry  otlicr 
that  wo 
them  c'X- 
>tance  of 
[it  tliirtv 
in  aver- 
aiul  as 
a  cu1)i(; 
of  l)irds 
\'eii  eer- 
ie little 
darken 
hie  at  a 
thought 

was  an 
whieh," 
seen  at 
carried 
e  great- 
Bquenc(i 
account 
slight 


•■t 


matter  wouhl  dis|»lace  and  hurl  d<»\vn  llie  precipitous 
di'clivity,  to  the  utter  destruction  ot'  ium  who  depended 
ui)on  tfu'ir  support,  or  wh(»  might  iiappeii  to  be  in 
their  path  Itelow.  The  latter  j)art  of  our  ascent  was, 
indeecl,  much  against  our  im-limition  ;  hut  we  found  it 
imjMissiide  ti»  (h'seend  l»y  the  way  W(?  ha<l  come  up,  ami 
Were  ('omi)elled  to  gain  a  ledge,  wlueii  promised  the 
otdy  secure  resting-[>ia('i^  we  could  find  at  that  hi-igiit. 
'J'hi's  we  Were  al)le  to  effect  hy  sticking  the  tomaliawks 
with  which  we  were  ])rovided,  into  crevices  in  tlie  rock, 
as  a  support  for  our  feet;  and  some  of  tliese  instru- 
ments we  were  obliged  to  leave  wiiert*  tliey  were  driven, 
in  consecpu'iice  of  tlie  danger  tliat  atti'mkid  their 
iv'covery."'  During  the  vessel's  detention  in  this  har- 
bor, tln!  l»ay  and  anciiorage  were  com]»letely  surveyed. 

When  the  lirst  ]>arty  rowed  into  this  bay,  it  was  in 
([uiet  ])ossession  of  iierds  of  walruses,  who  were  so  nn- 
accustome(l  to  the  si<dit  of  a  boat  that  tliev  assenUded 
about  her,  api)arently  higlily  incensed  at  the  intrusion, 
and  swam  toward  her  as  though  they  would  luive  torn 
tlie  ]>lanks  asunder  with  their  tusks.  Their  hides  were 
so  toui^h  that  nothinf'  but  a  bavonet  would  pierce  them. 
The  wounils  that  were  inflicted  only  served  to  increase 
thi'ir  rage,  and  it  Avas  with  much  difHculty  they  were 
kept  off  with  lire-arms.  Su]ise(|uently  the  boats  went 
bi'tter  prepared  and  more  strongly  sui)ported,  and 
many  of  these  monsters  were  killed  ;  some  were  four- 
teen feet  in  length,  and  nine  feet  girth,  and  of  such 
])rodigious  weight,  that  the  boat's  crew  could  scarcely 
turn  them. 

The  ships  had  not  been  many  days  at  their  anchor- 
age when  they  were  truly  astonished  at  tho  sight  of  a 
strange  1)oat  pulling  toward  the  ships,  which  was  found 
to  belong  to  some  Russian  adventurers,  who  were  en- 
gaged in  the  collection  of  peltry  and  morse' teeth.  This 
is  the  last  remaining  establishmC^nt  at  Spitzbergen  still 
njiheld  by  the  merchants  of  Archangel. 

Although  equally  swrprised  at  the  sight  of  tho  ves- 
sels, the  boat'8  crew  took  courage,  and  after  a  careful 
scrutiny,  went  on  board  the  Dorothea;  Captain  Buchan 


:v«fo^#2«i 


62 


rHOORESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


gave  them  a  kind  reception,  and  supplied  tliem  with 
wluitever  they  wanted ;  in  return  for  which  they  sent 
on  board,  the  following  day,  a  side  of  venison  in  excel- 
lent condition.  Wishing  to  gain  some  furtlier  informa- 
tion of  these  people,  an  officer  accompanied  them  to 
their  dwelling  at  the  head  of  a  small  cove,  about  four 
miles  distant  from  the  bay,  where  he  found  a  comfort- 
able wooden  hut,  well  lined  with  moss,  and  stored  with 


venison,  wild  ducks,  &c. 


It  is  related  by  Captain  Beechey  that  it  was  with  ex- 
treme pleasure  they  noticed  in  this  retired  spot,  proba- 
bly the  most  northern  and  most  desolate  habitation  of 
our  globe,  a  spirit  of  gratitude  and  devotion  to  the  Al- 
mighty rarely  exercised  in  civilized  countries.  "  On 
landing  from  the  boat  and  approaching  their  residence, 
these  people  knelt  upon  its  tbreshold,  and  oftered  up  a 
prayer  with  fervor  and  evident  sincerity.  The  exact 
nature  of  the  prayer  wo  did  not  learn,  but  it  was  no 
doubt  one  of  thanksgiving,  and  we  concluded  it  was  a 
custom  which  these  recluses  were  in  the  habit  of  observ- 
ing on  their  safe  return  to  their  habitation.  It  may,  at 
all  events,  be  regarded  as  an  instance  of  the  beneficial 
effects  which  seclusion  from  the  busy  world,  and  a  con- 
templation of  the  works  of  nature,  almost  invariably 
produce  upon  the  hearts  of  even  the  most  uneducated 
pari"  of  mankind.'" 

On  the  7th  of  June  the  expedition  left  the  anchorage 
to  renew  the  examination  of  tlie  ice,  and  after  steering 
a  few  leaguea  to  the  northward,  foimd  it  precisely  in 
tlie  same  state  as  it  had  been  left  on  tlie  2d.  In  spite 
of  rJl  their  endeavors,  by  towing  and  otherwise,  the 
vesf^els  were  driven  in  a  calm  by  the  heavy  swell  into 
the  packed  ic^?,  and  the  increasing  peril  of  their  situa- 
tion may  be  imagined  from  the  following  graphic  de- 
Bcription  :  — 

"  The  pieoeij  at  the  edge  of  the  pack  were  at  one  time 
wholly  immersed  in  the  sea,  and  at  the  next  raised  far 
above  their  natural  line  of  flotation,  while  those  further 
in,  b«ing  nor*  extensive,  were  alternately  depressed  or 


cl( 
foi 

uli 
nil 

to 

'':      SCI 

"  Sill 

'S  w 


•Pi,?:' 


VOYAGE    UF   liUCIIAN    AND   FKANMtfN. 


58 


.  with 
y  Bcnt 
excel- 
:brmii- 
cm  to 
it  four 
mtbrt- 
i  with 

ith  cx- 
proba- 
ion  ot* 
^he  Al- 

"On 
idence, 
d  up  a 
3  exact 
was  no 
t  was  a 
lobsei'V- 
nay,  at 
ncficial 

a  con- 
ariably 

ucated 

Ihorago 
fceering 

|sely  in 
spito 
Ise,  the 
111  into 
situa- 
lic  de- 
le time 
led  far 
further 
Ised  or 


elevated  at  either  extremity  as  the  advancing  wave 
tbrced  its  way  along. 

^'  Tlio  see-saw  motion  which  was  thus  produced  waa 
iiliinniiig,  not  merely  in  appearance,  but  in  fact,  and 
must  have  proved  fatal  to  any  vessel  that  had  encoun- 
tered it ;  as  lloes  of  ice,  several  yards  in  thickness,  were 
cuutinually  crashing  and  breaking  in  pieces,  and  the 
sea  for  miles  was  covered  with  fragments  ground  so 
Binull  tliat  they  actually   formed   a  thick,  pasty  fuI> 
btance  —  in  nautical  language  termed,  "I/rash  ice'  — 
which  extended  to  the  depth  of  live  feet.     Amidst  this 
giddy  element,  our  whole  attention  was  occupied  in  en- 
deavoring to  place  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  the  strongest 
part  of  her  frame,  in  the  direction  of  the  most  fomiida- 
lile  pieces  of  ice  — a  maneuver  which,  though  likely  to 

'  be  attended  with  the  loss  of  the  bowsprit,- was  yet  prefer- 
able to  encountering  the  still  greater  risk  of  having  the 
l)roadside  of  the  vessel  in  contact  with  it ;  for  this  would 
have  subjected  her  to  the  chance  of  dipping  her  gun- 

:  wale  under  the  floes  as  she  rolled,  an  accident  wlucli, 
had  it  occurred,  would  either  have  laid  open  her  side, 
or  have  overset  the  vessel  at  once.    In  either  case,  the 

i  event  would  probably  have  proved  Mai  to  all  on  board, 

^as  it  would  have  been  next  to  impossible  to  rescue  any 

^person  from  the  confused  moving  mass  of  brash  ice 

%\vhich  covered  the  sea  in  every  direction." 

I    The  attention  of  the  seamen  was  in  some  degree  di- 

iverted  from  the  contemplation  of  this  scene  of  diffi- 

iculty  by  the  necessity  of  employing  all  hands  at  the 

^ump,  the  leak  having  gained  upon  them.     But,  for- 

Aunately,  toward  morning,  they  got  quite  clear  of  the 

t^Sce. 

'  ||    Steering  to  the  westward  to  reconnoiter,  they  fell  in, 
"Jm  longitude  4°  30'  E.,  with  several  wliale  ships,  and 

.  fwere  informed  by  them  that  the  ice  was  quite  compact 

to  the  westward,  and  that  fifteen  vessels  were  beset  in 

ait.     Proceeding  to  the  northward,  the  ships  passed,  on 

^tlie  11th  of  June,  Cloven  Cliff,  a  remarkable  isolated 

|rock,  wliich  marks  the  northwestern  boundary  of  Spitz- 

|bergen,and  steered  along  an  intricate  chajanel  between 


54 


TROOKESS   OF   AKCTICJ   DISCOVKILY. 


the  land  and  ice  ;  but,  next  morning,  their  further  ad- 
vance was  stopped,  and  tlie  channel  bj  which  the  ves- 
Bels  had  entered  became  so  completely  closed  up  as  to 
preclude  the  possibility  also  of  retreating.  Lieutenant 
j3eechey  proceeds  to  state  — 

"  The  ice  soon  began  to  press  heavily  upon  us,  and, 
to  add  to  our  difiiculties,  we  found  the  water  so  shallow 
that  the  rocks  were  plainly  discovered  under  the  bot- 
toms of  the  ships.  It  was  impossible,  however,  by  any 
exertion  on  our  part,  to  improve  the  situations  of  the 
vessels.  They  were  as  firmly  fixed  in  the  ice  as  if  they 
had  formed  part  of  the  pack,  and  we  could  only  hope 
that  the  current  would  not  drift  them  into  still  shallower 
water,  and  damage  them  against  the  ground." 

The  ships  were  here  hemmed  in  in  almost  the  same 
position  where  Bafiin,  Hudson,  Poole,  Captain  Phipps, 
and  all  the  early  voyagers  to  this  quarter  had  been 
stopped. 

As  the  tide  turned,  the  pieces  of  ice  immediately 
around  the  ships  began  to  separate,  and  some  of  them 
to  twist  round  with  a  loud  grinding  noise,  urging  the 
vessels,  which  werv3  less  than  a  mile  from  the  land,  still 
nearer  and  nearer  vo  the  beach. 

By  great  exertions  the  ships  were  hauled  into  small 
bays  in  the  floe,  and  secured  there  by  ropes  fixed  to  the 
ice  by  means  of  large  iron  hooks,  called  ice  anchors. 
Shifting  the  ships  from  one  part  of  this  floe  to  the  other, 
they  remained  attached  to  the  ice  thirteen  days.  As 
this  change  of  position  could  only  be  effected  by  main 
force,  the  crew  were  so  constantly  engaged  in  this  har- 
assing duty,  that  their  time  was  divided  almost  entirely 
between  thp  windlass  and  the  pump,  until  the  men  at 
length  became  so  fatigued  that  the  sick-list  was  seriously 
augmented.  During  this  period,  however,  the  situation 
of  the  leak  was  fortunately  discovered,  and  the  damage 
repaired. 

An  officer  and  a  party  of  men  who  left  the  Dorothea 
to  pay  a  visit  to  the  shore,  about  three  or  four  miles 
distant,  lost  themselves  in  the  fog  and  snow,  and  wan- 
dered about  for  sixteen  hours,  until,  quite  overconio 


J 


Tr" 


VOYAUE   OF   UUCUXls    A>il)   FliANKLIN. 


55 


le  ve:.;- 

P  Ho  to 

tenant 

s,  and, 
hallow 
tio  bot- 
by  any 
of  the 
if  they 
y  hope 
illower 

e  same 
Phipps, 
i  been 

id  lately 
f  them 
ng  the 
id,  still 

0  small 

1  to  the 
nchors. 
3  other, 
's.  As 
y  main 
lis  har- 
sntirelv 
[nen  at 
riously 
nation 
amago 

Drothea 
miles 
d  wan- 

ercomo 


with  wet,  cold  and  fatigue,  they  sat  down  in  a  state  of 
despondency,  upon  u  piece  of  ice,  determined  to  submit 
theii"  fate  to  Providence.     Their  troubles  are  thus  told  : 
"To  travel  over  ragged  pieces  of  ice,  upon  which 
'  there  were  two  feet  of  snow,  and  often  more,  springing 
from  one  slippery  piece  to  the  other,  or,  when  the  chan- 
ni'Ls  between  tliem  were  too  wide  for  this  purpose,  fer- 
rying themselves  upon  detached  fragments,  was  a  work 
which  it  required  no  ordinary  exertion  to  execnte. 
'•^Some  fell  into  the  water,  and  were  with  difficulty 
reserved  from  drowning  by  their  companions ;  while 
others,  afraid  to  make  any  hazardous  attempt  whatever, 
were  left  upon  pieces  of  ice,  and  drifted  about  at  tho 
mercy  of  the  winds  and  tides.     Foreseeing  the  proba- 
bility of  a  separation,  they  took  the  first  opportunity 
of  dividing,  in  equal  shares,  the  small  quantity  of  pro- 
vision whicii  they  had  remaining,  as  also  their  stock  of 
])uwder  and  ammunition.     Tliey  also  took  it  in  turns  to 
lire  muskets,  in  the  hoj)e  of  being  heard  from  the  ships." 
The  rei)orts  of  the  hre-arms  were  heard  by  their  ship- 
mates, and  Messrs.  Fife  and  Kirby,  the  Greenland  ice- 
liiuisters,  ventured  out  with  poles  and  lines  to  their 
|«issistaiice,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with  tho 
?party,  and  bring  them  safely  on  board,  after  eighteen 
ilKjurs'  absence.    They  determined  in  future  to  rest  sat- 
isfied with  the  view  of  the  shore  which  was  afforded 
^tliem  from  the  ship,  having  not  the  slightest  desire  to 
fittempt  to  approach  it  again  by  means  of  the  ice. 
il    The  pressure  of  the  ice  against  the  vessels  now  be- 
.jCame  very  great. 

^     "At  one  time,  when  the  Trent  appeared  to  be  so  closely 
edged  np  that  it  did  not  seem  possible  for  her  to  be 
loved,  she  was  suddenly  lifted  four  feet  by  an  enor- 
lous  mass  of  ice  getting  under  her  keel ;  at  another, 
-<the  fragments  of  tho  cruml)ling  floe  were  piled  up 
under  the  bows,  to  the  great  danger  of  the  bowsprit. 

"The  Dorothea  was  in  no  less  imminent  danger,  es- 
pecially from  the  point  of  a  floe,  which  came  in  contact 
with  her  side,  wlif^re  it  remained  a  short  time,  and  then 
glanced  o%  and  became  checked  by  the  field  to  wMcli 


•i(i 


5G 


rnociUESS  of  Aucric  dihcovery. 


^ 


she  waa  moored.  The  enormous  pressiire  to  whicli  tlio 
ship  had  been  subjected  was  now  apparent  !)y  the  tiehl 
"being  rent,  and  its  point  broken  into  fragment?,  which 
were  speedily  heaped  up  in  a  pyramid,  tliirty-ilve  feet 
in  heiglit,  upon  the  very  summit  of  whicli  tliere  ap- 
peared a  huge  mass,  bearing  the  impression  of  the 
planks  and  bolts  of  the  vessel's  bottom." 

Availing  themselves  of  a  break  in  the  ice,  the  ships 
were  moved  to  an  anchorage  between  the  islands  con- 
tiguous to  the  Cloven  Cliff;  and  on  the  28th  of  June, 
anchored  in  fifteen  tathoms  water,  near  Yogel  Sang. 
On  the  islandri  they  found  plenty  of  game,  and  eitlei- 
ducks. 

The  island  of  Yogel  Sang  alone  supplied  the  crews 
with  forty  reindeer,  which  were  in  such  high  condition 
that  the  fat  upon  the  loins  of  some  measured  from  four 
to  six  inches,  and  a  carcass,  ready  for  being  dressed, 
weighed  285  pounds.  Later  in  the  season,  the  deer 
were,  however,  so  lean  that  it  was  rare  to  meet  with  any 
fat  upon  them  at  all. 

On  the  Gth  of  July,  finding  the  ice  had  been  driven 
to  the  northward,  the  ships  again  put  to  sea,  and  Capt. 
Ijuchan  determined  to  prove,  by  a  desperate  effort, 
what  advance  it  was  possible  to  make  by  dragging  the 
vessels  througli  the  ice  whenever  the  smallest  openino- 
occurred.  This  laborious  experiment  was  performecl 
by  fixing  large  ropes  to  iron  hooks  driven  into  the  ice, 
and  by  heaving  upon  them  with  the  windlass,  a  party 
removing  obstructions  in  the  channel  with  saws.  Eut 
in  spite  of  all  their  exertions,  the  most  northerly  posi- 
tion attained  was  80°  37'  N.  Although  fastened  to  tlu) 
ice,  the  ships  were  now  drifted  bodily  to  the  southward 
by  the  prevailing  current.  They  were-  also  much  in- 
jured by  the  pressure  of  hummocks  and  fields  of  ice. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  Captain  Beechey  tells  us,  the 
Trent  sustained  a  squeeze  which  made  her  rise  four 
feet,  and  heel  over  five  streaks  ;  and  on  the  15th  and 
16th,  both  vessels  suffered  considerable  damage.  "  On 
that  occasion,"  he  says,  "we  observed  a  field  fifteen 
feet  in  thickness  break  up,  and  the  pieces  pile  upon 


VOYAOK   OF   BUCIIAN    AND   FRANKIJN. 


67 


licli  the 
•he  Held 
S  whieh 
ive  feet 
lere  ap- 
ot'  the 

le  ships 
ds  con- 
)t'  June, 

d  eidei- 

16  crews 
^ndition 
om  four 
dressed, 
he  deer 
vith  any 

I  driven 

d  Capt. 

effort, 

;ing  the 

openino- 

brmed 

the  ice, 

a  partv 

Eiit 

y  posi- 

d  to  the 

thward 

uch  in- 

ice. 

us,  the 

se  four 

th  and 

"On 

fifteen 

3  upon 


'each  other  to  a  great  height,  until  they  upset,  when  they 
rolled  over  witli  a  tremendous  crash.    Ihe  ice  near  the 
■phipswas  piled  up  above  their  bulwarks.    Fortunately, 
^he  vessels  rose  to  the  pressure,  or  they  must  have  had 
Itheir  sides  forced  in.    The  Trent  received  her  greatest 
(damage  upon  the  quarters,  and  was  so  twisted  that  the 
(floors  of  all  the  cabins  flew  open,  and  the  panels  ot 
I onie  started  in  the  frames,  while  her  false  stern-post 
ivas  moved  three  inches,  and  her  timbers  cracked  to  a 
Biost  serious  extent.    The  Dorothea  suffered  still  more : 
%ome  of  her  beams  were  sprung,  and  two  planks  on  the 
lower  deck  were  split  fore  and  aft,  and  doubled  up,  and 
ghe  otherwise  sustained  serious  injury  in  her  hull.     It 
^-as  in  vain  that  we  attempted  any  relief;  our  puny 
efforts  were  not  even  felt,  though  continued  for  ei^ht 
hours  with  unabated  zeal ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  tide 
changed  that  the  smallest  effect  was  produced.     When, 
jiowever,  that  occurred,  the  vessels  righted  and  settled 
in  the  water  to  their  proper  draught." 
.    From  the  12  th  to  the  19th,  they  were  closely  beset 
l^ith  ice.    For  nine  successive  days  following  this  the 
jprews  were  occupied,  night  and  day,  in  endeavoring  to 
ixtricate  the  ships,  and  regain  the  open  sea.    Thinking 
ae  had  given  the  ice  a  fair  trial  here,  the  commander 
letermined  vipon  examining  its  condition  tow^ard  the 
istern  coast  of  Greenland,  and  in  the  event  of  finding 
efiually  impenetrable  there,  to  proceed   round   the 
nith  cape  of  Spitzbergen,  and  make  an  attempt  be- 
tween that  island  and  Nova  Zembla. 
4  On  the  30th  of  July,  a  sudden  gale  came  on,  and 
|brought  down  the  main  body  of  the  ice  upon  them,  so 
^hat  the  ships  were  in  such  imminent  danger  that  their 
|>nly  m  3ans  of  safety  was  to  take  refuge  among  it  —  a 
)ractice  which  has  been  resorted  to  Ijy  whalers  in  ex- 
reme  cases  —  as  their  only  chance  of  escaping  destruc- 
ion. 
The  following  is  a  description  of  the  preparation 
lade  to  withstand  the  terrible  encounter,  and  the  hair- 
)readth  escape  from  the  dangers :  — 
"  In  order  to  avert  the  effocta  of  this  as  much  as  pes- 


58 


I'KiXiKKSS    01-'    AKCllC    DlSCuVKliY. 


biblo,  u  ciihle  was  (.'lit  up  into  thirty -t'uet  Iriiy-tlis,  aiul 
those,  with  phites  of  iron  luur  feut  sqiiaiv,  which  liud 
been  supplied  to  \is  as  feiidej's,  to<j;'ether  with  isoiiio 
walrug'  Iiides,  were  luui<^  round  the  vessels,  es2)eeially 
about  the  bows.  The  masts,  at  the  same  time,  were  se- 
cui:ed  with  additional  ropes,  and  the  hatches  were  bat- 
tened and  nailed  down.  Jjy  tlie  time  these  precautions 
liad  been  taken,  our  approach  to  the  breakers  only  left 
us  the  alternative  of  either  pernuttinf:;  the  ships  to  be 
drifted  broadside  against  the  ice,  and  so  to  take  their 
chance,  or  of  endeavoring-  to  force  fairly  into  it  by  put- 
ting before  tlie  wind.  At  length,  the  hopeless  state  of 
a  vessel  placed  broadside  against  so  formidable  a  body 
became  a})parent  to  all,  and  we  resolved  to  attempt 
the  latter  expedient." 

Eagerly,  but  in  Miin,  v/as  the  general  line  of  the  pads 
Bcanned,  to  lind  one  ]>lace  more  open  than  the  other. 
All  parts  appeared  to  l)e  e^pially  impenetrable,  and  to 
present  one  unbroken  line  of  furious  breakers,  in  which 
immense  pieces  of  ice  were  heaving  and  subsiding  wit! ^ 
the  waves,  and  dasliing  together  with  a  violence  whicli 
nothing  apparently  but  a  solid  body  could  withstand, 
occasioning  such  a  noise  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty  the  officers  could  make  their  orders  heard  bv 
the  crew. 

The  fearful  aspect  of  this  appalling  scene  is  thue 
sketched  by  Captain  Beechey  :  — 

"'  'No  language,  I  am  convinced,  can  convey  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  terrific  grandeur  of  the  effect  now  pro- 
duced by  the  collision  of  the  ice  and  the  tempestuous 
ocean.  The  sea,  violently  agitated  and  rolling  its  moun- 
tainous waves  against  an  opposing  body,  is  at  all  times 
a  sublime  and  awful  sight ;  but  when,  in  addition,  it 
encounters  immense  masses,  which  it  has  set  in  motion 
with  a  violence  equal  to  its  own,  its  effect  is  prodigi- 
ously increased.  At  one  moment  it  bursts  upon  these 
icy  fragments  and  buries  them  many  feet  beneath  its 
wave,  and  the  next,  as  the  buoyancy  of  the*  depressed 
body  struggles  for  reascendancy,  the  water  rushes  in 
foaming  cataracts  over  its  edges  ;  while  every  indi- 


/  . 


Voyage  of  lin^uAN  am>  ihj^^av. 


5U 


h^:,  aiui 
ch  had 

I  sumo 
pecially 
vcre  Hc- 
ere  bat- 
'autiuiis 
•uly  left 
>s  to  be 
ke  their 
by  put- 
state  of 

a  body 
attempt 

he  pacl^ 
e  otlier. 
,  and  to 

II  ^vhich 
iiig  witli 

M'liich 
istand, 
crreatef^l 
ard  bv 

is  thue 

an  ade- 

ow  prtH 

lestuoiis 

momi- 

1  times 

ition,  it 

motion 

3rodigi- 

n  these 

ath  its 

pressed 

lies  in 

J  indi- 


vidual mass,  rockino;  and  laboring  in  its  bbd,  grinds 
against  and  contends  with  its  o})ponent,  until  one  is 
ei'tlier  split  with  the  shock  or  ui)heaved  upon  the  sur- 

8  face  of  the  other.     Kor  is  this  collision  conlinod  to  any 

I  i)articular  spot ;  it  is  going  on  as  far  as  the  sight  can 
reacii ;  and  when  from  tliis  convulsive  scene  below,  the 
eye  is  turned  to  the  extraordi^ii'*v  appearance  of  the 
'blink  in  the  sky  above,  whei  cue  unnatural  clear- 
ness of  a  calm  and  silvery  atmosphere  presents  itself, 
bounded  by  a  dark,  hard  line  of  stormy  clouds,  such  aa 

^at  this  moment  lowered  over  our  masts,  as  if  to  mark 
the  confines  within  which  the  efibrts  of  man  would  be 
of  no  avail.  The  reader  may  imagine  the  sensation  of 
awe  wliicli  nnist  accompany  that  of  grandeur  in  tlio 
mind  of  the  beholder." 

•••If  ever,"  continues  the  narrator,  "the  fortitude  of 
eeamen  was  fairly  tried,  it  was  assuredly  not  less  eo  oft 

•  this  occasion  ;  and  I  will  not  conceal  tlio  pride  I  felt  in 
.^witnessirig  tlie  bold  and  decisive  tone  in  which  tho 
unleis  were  issued  ])y  the  commander  (the  present 
Captain  Sir  John  Franklin)  of  our  little  vessel,  and  tho 
promptitude  and  steadiness  with  which  they  were  oxo* 
cuted  ))y  the  crew." 
*    As  the  laboring  vessel  flew  before  the  gal6>  sho  eooa 

r'  eared  the  scene  of  danger. 
"Each  person  instinctively  secured  hit  own  hold, 
ind  Avith  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  masts,  awaited  in 
jpreathless  anxiety  the  moment  of  concussion. 
;M  "  It  soon  arrived, — the  brig,  (Trent)  cutting  her  way 
pirough  the  light  ice,  came  in  violent  contact  with  the 
Inain  body.  In  an  instant  we  all  lost  our  footing  ;  the 
.  Aiasts  bent  with  the  impetus,  and  the  cracldng  timbers 
^om  below  bespoke  a  pressure  which  was  calculated  to 
^waken  our  serious  apprehensions.  The  vessel  stag- 
ired  under  the  shock,  and  for  a  moment  seemed  to 
jcoil ;  but  the  next  wave,  curling  up  under  her  coun- 
jr,  drove  her  about  her  own  length  within  the  margin 
)f  the  ice,  where  she  gave  one  roll,  and  was  immedi- 
litely  thrown  broadside  to  the  wind  by  the  succeeding 
7ave,  which  beat  furiously  against  her  stem,  ana 


60 


PKOGRESS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


brought  licr  lee-side  in  contact  with  tlio  main  bod}', 
leaving  her  weather-side  exposed  at  the  same  time  to 
a  piece  of  ice  about  twice  her  own  dimensions.  Tliis 
unfortimate  occu"»*ence  prevented  the  vessel  penetrat- 
ing sufficiently  far  into  the  ice  to  escape  the  effect  of 
the  gale,  and  placed  her  in  a  situation  wliere  she  was 
assaued  on  all  sides  by  battering-rams,  if  I  may  use 
the  expression,  every  one  of  which  contested  the  small 

Siace  which  she  occupied,  and  dealt  such  unrelenting 
ows,  that  there  appeared  to  be  scarcely  any  possibil- 
ity of  savin^nj  Iier  from  foundering.  Literally  tossed 
from  piece  to  piece,  we  had  nothing  left  but  patiently 
to  abide  the  issue  ;  for  we  could  scarcely  keep  our  feet, 
much  less  render  any  assistance  to  the  vessel.  The  mo- 
tion, indeed,  was  so  great,  that  the  ship's  bel],  which,  in 
the  heaviest  gale  of  wind,  had  never  struck  of  itself, 
now  tolled  so  continually,  that  it  was  ordered  to  ho 
muffled,  for  the  purpose  of  escaping  the  unpleasant  as 
Bociation  it  was  calculated  to  produce. 

"  In  anticipation  of  the  worst,  we  determined  to  at 
tempt  placing  the  launch  upon  the  ice  under  the  lee, 
and  hurried  into  her  such  provisions  and  stores  as  could 
at  the  moment  be  got  at.  Serious  doubts  were  reason- 
ably entertained  of  the  boat  being  able  to  live  among 
the  confused  mass  by  which  we  were  encompassed ;  yet 
as  this  appeared  to  be  our  only  refiige,  we  clung  to  it 
with  all  the  eagerness  of  a  last  resource." 

From  the  injury  the  vessel  repeatedly  received,  it 
became  very  evident  that  if  subjected  to  this  concus- 
sion for  any  time,  she  could  not  hold  together  long  ;  the 
only  chance  of  escape,  therefore,  appeared  to  depend 
upon  getting  before  the  wind,  and  penetrating  further 
into  the  ice. 

To  effect  this  with  any  probability  of  success,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  set  more  head-sail,  though  at  the 
risk  of  the  masts,  already  tottering  with  the  pressm-e 
of  that  which  was  spread.  By  the  expertness  of  the 
eeamen,  more  sail  was  spread,  and  under  this  additional 
pressure  of  canvass,  the  ship  came .  into  the  desired 
position,  and  with  the  aid  of  an  enormous  mass  under 


n 


the 
thi( 
and 
I 
pro 
the 
to  \ 
the 
hu 
cnil 
tun 
disii 
sust 
,      For 
'  usel 
,     lor 
anc 
suul 
^  cent 

•    0 

'  tliev 

T     • 

Iinii 
liav< 
^the 
Upo 

to  t: 

pate 
vant  [ 
be  a 
estir 
com 
crew 
tere( 

)Ut  1 

)y  tj 


i; 


VOYAGE   OF  BUCIIAN   AND   FRANKLIN. 


61. 


body, 
;ime  to 
.  This 
jiietrat- 
sffect  of 
ihe  was 
lay  use 
e  small 
leuting 
►ossibil- 

tossed 
itiently 
•ur  feet, 
riie  mo- 
liicli,  in 
•f  itself, 
I  to  Lo 
sant  as 


£ 


to  at 
he  lee, 
s  could 
reason- 
amono- 
ed;  yet 
ig  to  it 

Lved,  it 
conciis- 
tho 
depend 
further 


,  it  be- 
at the 
ressui'e 
of  the 
litional 
desired 
I  under 


the  stern,  she  split  a  small  field  of  ice,  fourteen  feet  in 
thickness,  which  had  hitherto  impeded  her  progress, 
and  effected  a  passage  for  herself  between  the  pieces. 
In  this  improved  position,  by  carefully  placing  the 
protecting  fenders  between  the  ice  and  the  ship's  sides, 
tlie  strokes  were  much  diminished,  and  she  managed 
to  weatlier  out  the  gale,  but  lost  sight  of  her  consort  in 
the  clouds  of  spray  which  were  tossed  about,  and  the 
huge  intervening  masses  of  ice  among  which  they  were 
embayed.     On  the  gale  moderating,  the  ships  were  for- 
tunately got  once  more  into  an  open  sea,  although  both 
disabled,  and  one  at  least,  the  Dorothea,  which  had 
sustained  the  heavy  shocks,  in  a  foundering  condition. 
For  the  main  object  of  the  expedition  they  were  now 
useless,  and,  both  being  in  a  leaky  state,  they  bore  up 
for  Fair  Haven,  in  Spitzbergen.    In  approaching  the 
■  anchorage   in   South  Gat,  the  Trent   bounded  over  a 
sunken  rock,  and  struck  hard,  but  this,  after  their  re- 
cent danger,  was  thought  comparatively  light  of. 
On  examining  the  hulls  of  the  vessels,  it  was  found 
'  they  had  sustained  frightful  injuries.    The  intermediate 
•lining  of  felt  between  the  timbers  and  planks  seems  to 
liave  aided  greatly  in  enabling  the  vessels  to  sustain 
'the  repeated  powerful  shocks  they  had  encountered. 
lUpon  consulting  with  his  officers.  Captain  Buchan  came 
fto  the  opinion  that  the  most  prudent  course,  was  to 
Jpatcli  up  the  vessels  for  their  return  voyage.     Lieuten- 
fant  Franklin  preferred  an  urgent  request  that  he  might 
be  allowed  to  proceed  in  his  own  vessel  upon  the  inter- 
^esting  service  still  unexecuted  ;  but  this  could  not  be 
?  complied  with,  in  consequence  of  the  hazard  to  the 
acrew  of  proceeding  home  singly  in  a  vessel  so  shat- 
Jtered  and  unsafe  as  the  Dorothea.     After  refitting,  they 
put  to  sea  at  the  end  of  August,  and  reached  England 
Dy  the  middle  of  October. 

Franklin's  First  Land  Expedition,  1819-21. 

In  1819,  on  the  recommendation  of  the  Lords  of  the 
j  Admiralty,  Capt.  Franklin  was  appointed  to  command 


es 


rjcoGKKss  oK  Ai:<;ii(;  DiscovKia'. 


all  overltiiid  expedition  tiY>ni  Hudson's  I>uy  to  tiio  iioi'tli- 
cni  sliores  ot*  Aniurit'ii,  for  the  purpose  ot*  deterniiiiiiii^ 
the  latitudes  iind  loni^itudes,  {uid  exploring  the  const  ot* 
the  continent  esistwiird  from  thy  Copperndno  Kiver.  ])r. 
John  Kichardson,  li.  N.,  and  two  Admiralty  ]\lidship- 
men,  Mr.  Georii;o  Back,  (who  had  been  out  on  the  jxtliir 
cxi)C(lition,  in  tlie  previous  year,  in  H.  M.  S.  Trent,)  and 
Mr.  Itobert  Hood,  were  placed  under  his  orders.  Pre- 
vious to  his  departure  from  London,  Capt.  Franklin  ob- 
tained all  the  information  and  advice  possible  from  Sii* 
•  Alex.  Mackenzie,  one  of  the  oidy  two  ])erson8  who  had 
yet  ex])lored  those  shores.  On  the  23d  of  May,  the  party 
embarked  at  Gravesend,  in  the  Prince  of  Wales,  belon*;'- 
in^  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Ci)mpany,  which  immediately 
got  under  weif»;h  in  company  with  her  consorts,  the  Kd- 
dystone  and  Wear.  Mr.  Back,  who  w^as  left  on  shore  by 
accident  in  Yarmouth,  succeeded  in  catching  tfie  ship  at 
Htromness.  i)u  the  4th  of  August,  in  hit.  59°  58'  X., 
and  long.  59"  5o'  W.,  they  first  fell  in  with  large  icebergs. 
On  tlie  following  day,  the  height  of  one  was  ascertained 
to  be  149  feet.  After  a  stormy  and  perilous  voyage  the}' 
reached  the  anchorage  at  York  Flats  on  the  30th  of 
August. 

On  the  9th  of  September,  Capt.  Franklin  and  his  party 
left  York  Factory  in  a  boat  by  the  way  of  the  rivers  and 
lakes  for  Cumberland  House,  another  of  the  Company's 
posts,  which  they  reached  on  the  22d  of  October. 

On  the  19th  of  January,  Franklin  set  out  in  comjDany 
with  Mr.  Back  and  a  seanum  named  Hepburn,  with  pro- 
visions for  fifteen  days,  stowed  in  two  sledges,  on  their 
journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan.  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Ilood 
and  Mr.  Conolly  accompanied  them  a  short  distance. 
After  touching  at  different  posts  of  the  Company,  they 
reached  their  destination  safely  on  the  26th  of  Marcli, 
after  a  winter's  journey  of  857  miles.  The  greatest  diffi- 
culty experienced  by  Uie  travelers  was  the  labor  of  walk- 
ings in  snow  shoes,  a  weight  of  between  two  and  three 
pounds  being  constantly  attached  to  galled  feet  and 
sw^elled  ankles. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  they  were  joined  by  Dr.  Richard- 


$' 


IJ;ANuI.U\  fc5  Vnv  I   I.AM'  K.M'KDITIuN. 


63 


nurtli- 
n'mlii.ii; 

U'AUt  of 

ir.    1)1'. 

idsliip- 
ii  ])<>kir 
it,)  and 
.     r  re- 
el in  ob- 
•oiii  !^ii' 
ho  liud 
ic  piu'ty 
Ijc'lon*;'- 
Kllutcly 
the  Kd- 
lioi-e  by 
;shi|)  at 
58'  ^., 
t:eber^-s. 
'rtiilned 
i^e  they 
30th  of 

|is  party 
ers  uud 
ipiiny's 
ir. 

iinpaiiy 
ith  pro- 
»n  their 
•.  Ilood 
tstance. 
|y,  they 
[March, 
!St  diffi- 
|f  walk- 
three 
let  and 

kcliard- 


Foii  tiiid   Mr.  Hood,  wlio  Iiiid   iikkK' u  wvy  expeditious 
jouriU'V  from  (.'uinl»eriiiiid    Ib-ust';  they  had  only  ouu 
'(hiy's  provisioiiri  Icl't,  the  peHiiuiean  they  hud  received  at 
the  [)t»sts  bein;^'Ho  mouldy  that  tliey  were  obli«rt.(j  to  leave 
it  I)ehin<l.     Ari'an,i,^eiiieut8  were  now  made  tor  their  juur- 
iK'y  n«.rth\vard.     Sixteen  Canadian  voya,i;<'urs  were  eii- 
H'.i'i;'ed,  and  a  (.'Idpewyan  woman  and  two  interjjreters 
were  to  be  taken  on  from  Great  Slave  Lake.     The  whole 
stock  (»f  ])rovi.slons  they  could  obtain  before  startin*,^  was 
oidy  .-ullieient  for  one  day's  sui>ply,  exchi.sive  of  two  bar- 
rels of  Hour,  three  cases  of  preserved  meats,  some  choco- 
late, iirruw-root  and  i)ortable  soup,  which  had   been 
bn  )UL;-ht  froui  Enii,hind,  and  were  kept  as  a  ivserve  for  the 
jouiiiey  to  the  coast  in  the  followni^  season;  seventy 
])ouii(ls  of  deer's  ilesh  and  a  little  barley  were  all  that 
',  the  Company's  ollicers  could  give  them.     The  i>rovisions 
*  Wi'i'e  distribnti'd  anionui;  three  canoes,  and  tlie  ]iart.y  set 
j||ofr  in  t(o<»d  spirits  on  the  ISth  of  fFuly.     They  had  to 
ipinivke  an  inroad  very  soon  on  their  preserved  meats,  f(.»r 
^tlny  were  very  unfortunate  in  their  fisl  in<^.     (Jn  the 
CvSith  of  July,  however,  they  were  successful  in  shooting 
a  buffalo  in  the  Salt  liiver,  after  giving  him  fourteen 
balls.     At  ^[(.(ose  Deer  Island  they  got  sup])lies  from 
g;he  Iludsoirs  Bay  and  iSTorth  West  Companies'  otlicers, 
lid  on  the  27th  set  out  again  on  their  journey,  reaching 
'ort  Providence  by  the  29tli. 
Shortly  after  they  had  an  interview  with  a  celebrated 
il  iTitluential  Indian  chief,  named  Akaitcho,  who  was 
furnish  them  with  guides.     Another  Canadian  voya- 
eur  was  there  engaged,  and  the  party  now  consisted  of 
■le  ofiieers  already  named,  Mr.  Fred.  Wentzel,  clerk  of 
le  N.  AV.  Fur  Company,  who  joined  them  here,  John 
[epburn,  the  English  seaman,  seventeen  Canatlian  voy- 
■^geurs,  (one  of  whom,  named  Michel,  was  an  Iroquois,) 
ind  three  Indian  interpreters,  besides  the  wives  of  three 
J)f  the  voyageurs  who  had  been  brought  on  for  the  pur- 
?.:|)ose  of  making  clothes  and  shoes  for  the  men  at  tho 
nter  establishment.     The  whole  number  were  twenty- 
ine,  exclusive  of  three  children.    I  give  the  list  of  tho?e 
hose  names  occui'  most  frequently  in  the  narrative: 


s?-^ 
'*■% 


64 


rnooKirs  oK  Ai:(Tic  Discovintv. 


f 

\ 


tl.  Ji.  Jk'lan^c'i*,  Peltier,  Sitloiuun  Holaii^cr,  Siinmndre, 
J>t'in)it,  iViTiiuU,  Antuiiio  Fuiitiino,  .l>euu[)urlant,  Vuil- 
laiit,  Credit,  Adam  St.  Germain,  iiiteri»reter;  Aii«i;iistu8 
and  Junius,  KKquinuiux  interpreters.  They  Imd  j)rovis- 
ions  fur  ten  da}'.s'  consumption,  besides  a  little  choeolato 
and  tea,  viz  :  two  casks  of  tlour,  200  dried  reindeer 
tonj^ues,  some  dried  moose  meat,  })ortal)le  soup,  and  a 
little  arrow-root.  A  small  extra  canoe  was  jjrovided  for 
the  women,  and  the  journey  for  the  Coppermine  lliver 
was  commenced  on  tiie  2d  of  Au<^ust.  The  i)arty  met 
.  with  many  hardships — were  placed  on  short  diet — an<l 
Bome  of  the  Canadians  broke  out  into  open  rebellion, 
refusin;^  to  T>roceed  farther.  However,  they  were  at  last 
calmed,  ancl  arrived  on  the  20th  of  August  at  Fort  Ya\- 
terprise,  on  Winter  Lake,  which,  by  the  advice  of  their 
Indian  guides,  they  determined  on  making  their  winter 
quarters.  The  total  length  of  the  voyage  from  Chipe- 
wyan  was  552  miles;  and  after  leaving  Fort  Providence, 
they  luid  21  miles  of  portage  to  pass  over.  As  the  men 
had  to  traverse  each  portage  with  a  load  of  180  lbs., 
and  return  three  times  light,  they  walked,  in  the  whole, 
upward  of  150  miles. 

In  consequence  of  the  refusal  of  Akaitcho  and  Lis 
party  of  Indians  to  guide  and  accompany  them  to  the 
sea,  because,  as  they  alledged,  of  the  approach  of  win- 
ter, and  the  imminent  danger,  Captain  Franklin  was 
obliged  to  abandon  proceeding  that  season  down  tho 
river,  and  contented  himself  with  dispatching,  on  the 
29th,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.  Hood,  in  a  light  canoe,  with 
St.  Germain  as  interpreter,  eight  Canadians,  and  one 
Indian,  furnished  with  eight  days' provisions  —  all  that 
could  be  spared. 

They  returned  on  the  10th  of  September,  after  hav- 
ing reached  and  coasted  Point  Lake.  In  the  mean  time, 
Franklin  and  Richardson,  accompanied  by  J.  Hepburn 
and  two  Indians,  also  made  a  pedestrian  excursion  tow- 
ard the  same  quarter,  leaving  on  the  9th  of  September, 
and  returning  on  the  fourteenth.  The  whole  party 
spent  a  long  winter  of  ten  months  at  Fort  Enterprise, 
depending  upon  the  fish  they  could  catch,  and  the  sue 
ee>?s  of  their  Indian  hunters,  for  food. 


FUANKI.IN  rt    in:sl     I, AM)    JJM'KDITIO.V. 


h.) 


iiandrc, 
t,  Vuil- 
ii«;'iistli8 
l)ruvis- 
locolato 
(.'iiidee'r 
),  uiul  II 
idcd  tc»i' 

0  Kivcr 
rty  iiit't 
.'t — and 
ilu'llion, 
e  at  last 
^ort  Kn- 
ot' their 
r  winter 

1  Chipe- 
/idence, 
the  men 
^80  lbs., 

whole, 

ind  his 
to  the 
of  win- 
in  was 
wn  the 
on  the 
)e,  with 
nd  one 
all  that 

■er  hav- 
n  time, 
epbnrn 
on  tow- 
;ember, 
party 
3rprise, 
be  sue 


Oil  the  <Uh  of  OctulHT,  the  ofllcers  (piitti'd  their  tents 
f(»r;i«rond  lofj  house  which  lia<l   l>een  built.     The  ehiy 
with  which  tne  walls  and  roof  were  pla-tcred,  ha<l  to 
bo  tciu[)i'ri'il  bet'ori'  tlie  iuv,  with  Mutcr,  and  tVo/.i-  as  it: 
was  dau1)cd  on  ;  but  at'tciwanl  cracke<l  in  such  a  num- 
jK-r,  as  to  a<hnit  the  wind   tVoui  every  (juartcr.     Still 
[the  new  abo«k',  witli  a  good  lire  of  fagots  in  the  capa- 
l"Us  clay-built  ehimney,  was  considered  (piite  conifort- 
ililc  whrii  coiiiparetl  with  the  c'lllly  tents. 
The  reindeer  are  found  on  tli'j  baidvs  of  the  Copper- 
^\\\H\  Kiver  early  in  May,  as  they  then  go  to  the  sea- 
oast  to  bring  f)rth  their  young.     Ihey  usually  retire 
uin  tile  coast  in  .Inly  and  Angu-t,  rnt    m  Oeto'  m*, and 
helter  themselves  in  the  woods  during  winter.     Before 
tilt'  niitMle  of  October,  tlie  carcasses  of  on    hun<lred 
^eer  had  been  secured  in  their  store-hoi.    \  together  w'ui 
^ne  tijousand  pounds  of  suet,  and  S(.me  dried  meat; 
Jtnd  efijhtv  deer  were  stowed  away  at  various  distances 
0roiii  their  liouse,  €}i  cache.    This  placing  provisions 
Sf' en  cache,"  is  merely  burying  and  protecting  it  from 
%'olves  and  other  depredators,  by  heavy  loads  of  wood 
^r  stone. 

On  the  ISth  of  October,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.  Wentzel, 
^cojn])anied  by  two  Canadian  voyageurs,  two  Indians 
d  their  wives,  set  ont  for  Fort  Providence  to  make 
e  necessary  arrangements  for  transporting  the  stores 
,..;piey  expected  from  Cumbc-hpid  liouse,  and  to  see  if 
me  further  snpplies  mighr.  r  -t  be  obtained  from  the 
tablishments  on  Slave  Lake.      Dispatches  for  Eng- 
jand  were  also  forwarded  by  them,  tletailing  tlie  ])ro- 
ress  of  the  expedition  np  to  this  date.     By  the  end  of 
he  month  the  men    -lau  also  completed  a  bonse  for 
beinselves,  34  feet  by  IS.     On  the  26th  of  October, 
(Akaitcho,  and  his  Indian  party  of  hnnters,  amounting 
with  women  and  children  to  forty  sonls,  came  in,  owing 
to  the  deer  having  migrated  sontliward.      This  added 
o  the  daily  nnmber  to  be  provided  for,  and  by  this  time 
heir  ammunition  was  nearly  expended. 

The  lishing  failed  as  the  weatlier  became  more  severe, 
and  was  given  np  on  the  5th  of  JSTovemlier.     Abont 

3* 


Ui., 


00 


l-KDiJiilu^o    <)!-■    AliCTJU    DISCOVKUV 


1200  wliite  iisli,  of  from  two  to  three  pouu<.l>,  liiid  Ikmmi 
procured  durlni;'  the  season.  The  lish  froze  as  thev 
were  taken  from  the  nets,  becoming  in  a  short  time  a 
solid  mass  of  ice,  so  that  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet 
would  easily  split  them  open,  when  the  intestines  miglit 
be  removed  in  one  lump.  If  thawed  before  the  lire, 
even  after  being  frozen  for  nearly  two  days,  the  tibh 
would  recover  their  animation. 

On  the  23d  of  November,  tliey  were  gratiiiod  by  tho 
•a23pearance  of  one  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  who  lui'l 
set  out  with  Mr.  Back.  His  locks  were  nuitted  with 
snow,  and  he  was  so  encrusted  with  ice  from  head  to 
foot,  tliat  they  could  scarcely  recognize  him.  He  re- 
'ported  that  they  had  had  a  tedious  and  fatiguing  jour- 
ney to  Fort  Providence,  and  for  some  days  were  desti- 
tute of  provisions.  Letters  were  brought  from  England 
to  the  preceding  April,  and  quickly  was  the  packet 
tliawed  to  get  at  the  contents.  The  newspapers  con- 
veyed the  intelligence  of  the  death  of*  George  111.  The 
advices  as  to  the  expected  stores  were  disheartening; 
of  ten  bales  of  ninety  pounds  each,  five  had  been  I  At 
by  some  n\ismanagement  at  the  Grand  Rapid  on  tho 
Sattkatchawan.  On  the  28th  of  November,  St.  Ger- 
main the  interpreter,  Avith  eight  Canadian  voyageur^;, 
and  four  Indian  hunters,  were  sent  ofi'  to  bring  uj^  tlie 
stores  from  Fort  Providence. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  Franklin  managed  to  get 
rid  of  Akaitcho  and  his  Indian  party,  by  representiiii,' 
to  them  the  impossibility  of  maintaining  them.  The 
leader,  however,  left  them  his  mother  and  two  female 
attendants;  and  old  Kaskarrah,  the  guide,  with  his  wife 
and  daughter,  remained  behind.  This  daughter,  wlio 
was  designated  "  Green  Stockings,"  from  her  dress,  was 
considered  a  great  beauty  by  her  tribe,  and  althouoh 
but  sixteen,  had  belonged  successively  to  two  husbands, 
and  would  probably  have  been  the  wife  of  many  more, 
if  her  mother  had  not  required  her  services  as  a  nuri^o. 

Mr.  Hood  took  a  good  likeness  of  the  yoimg  lady, 
but  her  mother  was  somewhat  averse  to  her  sitting  for 
it,  fearing  that  "  her  daughter's  likeness  would  induce 


FliANKLIN  S  FIKST  LAND  KXI'KI^ITloN. 


07 


tlu'  (Jroat  Chief  wlio  resided  in  Engliiiid  to  send  for  the 

■iu'iiiul  I " 

The  diet  of  the  party  in  their  winter  abode  consisted 
ihiiust  entirely  of  reindeer  meat,  varied  twice  a  week 
>y  lish,  and  occasionally  by  a  little  tiour,  but  they  had 
10  vegetables  of  any  kind.  On  Sunday  morning  they 
uid  a"en|)  of  chocolate  ;  but  their  greatest  luxury  was 

1  •    1      <i  11       i.„,i    i.„:„.    „     A. —     ..It!..  1. 


La.  wliich 


•ithout  suicar 


they  regularly  bad  twice  a  day,  althougli 
%ar.     Candles 'were  formed  of  reindeer  fat 


lid  sti-ips  of  cotton  shirts;  and  Hei)burn  acquired  con- 
idcniblc  skill  in  the  manufacture  of  poap  from  the  wood 
•lies,  fat  and  salt.  The  stores  were  anxiously  looked 
:)!•,  and  it  was  hoped  they  would  have  arrived  by  New 
fear's  Day,  (1821.)  so  as  to  have  kept  the  festival.  As 
'  >vas,  they  c juld  only  receive  a  little  Hour  and  fat,  both 
f  wliich  were  considered  great  luxuries. 

On  the  15tli,  seven  of  the  men  arrived  with  two  kegs 
f  rum,  one  barrel  of  powder,  sixty  pounds  of  ball,  two 

lis  of  tobacco,  and  some  clothing. 

'*  They  had  been  twenty-one  days  on  tlieir  march  from 

ave  Lake,  and  the  labor  they  underwent  was  suffi- 
ently  evinced  by  their  sledge  collars  having  worn  out 

e  shoulders  of  tlieir  coats.  "Their  loads  weighed  from 
xty  to  ninety  i^ounds  each,  exclusive  of  their  bedding 

(1  provisions,  which  at  starting  must  have  been  at  least 

nuich  more.     We  were  much  rejoicetl  at  their  arrival, 

d  i)roceeded  forthwith  to  pierce  the  spirit  cask,  and 
sue  to  each  of  the  household  the  portion  of  rum  which 
ad  been  promised  on  the  first  day  of  the  year.    The 

irits,  which  were  proof,  were  frozen;  but  after  stand- 
g  at  the  fire  for  some  time  they  flowed  out,  of  the 

nsistence  of  honey.  The  temperature  of  the  liquid, 
iven  in  this  state,  was  so  low  as  instantly  to  convert 
ito  ice  the  moisture  which  condensed  on  the  surface  of 
le  dram-glass.     The  fingers  also  adhered  to  the  glass, 

d  would  doul)tless  have  been  speedily  frozen  had  they 
3en  kept  in  contact  with  it ;  yet  each  of  the  voyageurs 
vallowed  his  dram  without  experiencing  the  slightest 
■convenience,  or  complaining  of  toothache." 

It  appeared  that  the  Canadians  had  tapped  the  rum- 


cs 


PKOGKESS   OF   AKOTIC!   DISCOVEKY. 


cask  on  their  journey,  and  helped  themselves  rather 
freely. 

On  the  27th,  Mr.  Wentzel  and  St.  Germain  arrived, 
with  two  Esquimaux  interpreters  who  had  been  engac!:e(l, 
possessed  of  euphonious  names,  representing  tlie  belly 
and  the  ear,  but  wliich  had  been  Anglicised  into  Au- 
gustus and  Junius,  being  the  mouths  they  had  respec- 
tively arrived  at  Fort  Cliurchill.  The  former  spoke 
English.  They  brought  four  dogs  with  them,  which 
proved  of  great  use  during  the  season  in  drawing  hi 
wood  for  fuel. 

Mr.  Back,  at  this  time,  the  24th  of  December,  had 
gone  on  to  Chipewyan  to  procure  stores.  On  the  12tli 
of  February,  another  party  of  six  men  was  sent  to  Fort 
Providence  to  bring  up  the  remaining  supplies,  and 
these  retuined  on  the  5tli  of  March.  Many  of  the  cac/irs 
of  meat  which  had  been  buried  early  in  the  winter  were 
found  destroyed  by  the  M'olves  ;  and  some  of  these  aid- 
msSfs  prowled  nightly  about  the  dwellings,  even  ventnr- 
in^  upon  the  roof  of  their  kitchen.  The  rations  were 
reduced  from  eight  to  the  short  allowance  of  five  ounces 
of  animal  food  per  day. 

On  the  17th  of  March,  Mr.  Back  returned  from  Fort 
Chipewyan,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  five  months, 
during  which  he  had  performed  a  journey  on  foot  of 
more  than  eleven  hundred  miles  on  snow  shoes,  witli 
only  the  slight  shelter  at  night  of  a  blanket  and  a  deer 
skin,  with  the  thermometer  frequently  at  40°  and  onco 
at  57°,  and  very  often  passing  several  days  without 
food. 

Some  very  interesting  traits  of  generosity  on  the  part 
of  .lie  Indians  are  recorded  by  Mr.  Back.  Often  thev 
gave  up  and  would  not  taste  of  fish  or  birds  which  thev 
caught,  with  the  touching  remark,  "  We  are  accustomed 
to  starvation,  and  you  are  not." 

Such  passages  as  the  following  often  occur  in  Li^ 
narrative  : — "  One  of  our  men  caught  a  fish,  which,  with 
Jhe  assistance  of  some  weed  scraped  from  tlie  roclvN 
(tripe  de  roche)  which  forms  a  glutinous  substance,  made 
us  a  tolerable  supper ;  it  was  not  of  the  most  clioice  kind, 


^ 


FRANKLIN  S  FIKST  LAND  EXPliDITION. 


69 


J  ratlicr 

arrived, 
ngagod, 
le  belly 
iito  Aii- 
respec- 
ir  spolsc 
I,  which 
Aving  in 

ber,  liad 
the  12tli 
t  to  Fort 
lies,  and 
le  caches 
iter  were 
hese  aiii- 
1  ventur- 
)ns  were 
e  ounces 

'om  Fort 

mouths, 

foot  Cif 

pet<,  witli 

Id  a  deer 

md  oiici' 

without 

the  part 
ffcen  tht'V 
lich  tht'V 
lustonied 

in  lii^ 

ich,  witli 

le  rocl<^. 

3e,  made 


ce 


kind, 


het  fr«'>'»d  eiMu.ih  for  Imngry  men.     Wliile  we  were  eat- 

piii;'  it,  1  perceived  one  of  the  wojiien  l)usily  employed 

;crupinp;  an  old  skin,  the  contents  of  which  her  luisband 

i)resented  ns  with,     They  consisted  of  pounded  meat, 

lilt,  and  a  greater  proportion  of  Indian's  and  deer's  hair 

lian  either ;  and,  though  such  a  mixture  may  not  appear 

ji}\'\  alluring  to  an  English  stomach,  it  was  thought  a 

f relit  Inxury  after  three  days'  privation  in  tlicso  cheer- 

^ss  regions  of  America." 

To  retnrn  to  the  proceedings  of  Fort  Enterprise.  On 
lie  23d  of  March,  the  last  of  the  winter's  stock  of  deer's 
lent  was  expended,  and  the  party  were  compelled  to 
•nsume  a  little  pounded  meat,  which  had  been  saved 
)r  making  pemniican.  The  nets  scarcely  produced  any 
^h,  and  their  meals,  which  had  hitherto  been  scanty 
pough,  were  now  restricted  to  one  in  the  day. 
The  poor  Indian  families  about  the  house,  consisting 
•inci])ally  of  sick  and  infirm  women  and  children,  suf- 
red  even  more  privation.  They  cleared  away  the 
jiow  on  the  site  of  the  Autumn  encampment  to  look  for 
)nos,  deer's  feet,  bits  of  liide,  and  other  oftal.  "  AVhen 
(iSliys  Franklin)  we  beheld  them  gnawing  the  ])ieces  of 
hldt',  and  pounding  the  bones  for  the  jmrpose  of  extract- 
ing sonie  nourishment  from  them  by  boiling,  we  regret- 
ted our  inability  to  relieve  them,  but  little  thought  that 
we  should  ourselves  be  afterward  driven  to  tlie  neces- 
1^^  of  eagerly  collecting  these  same  bones,  a  second 
time  from  the  dung-hill." 

M)n^  the  4th  of  June,  1821,  a  first  party  set  off  from 

K  winter  quarters  for  Point  Lake,  and  the  Coppermine 

iver,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  Richardson,  consisting, 

dl,  voyageurs  and  Indians,  of  twenty -three,  exclusive 

children.     Each  of  the  men  carried*^al)out  80  lbs.,  be- 

les  his  own  personal   baggage,  weighing  nearly  as 

Ich  more.     Some  of  the  ])ai'ty  dragged  their  loads  on 

dges,  others  preferred  carrying  their  burden  on  their 

>ks.     On  the  13tli,  Dr.  Eichardson  sent  back  most  of 

men;  and  on  the  11th   Franklin  dispatched  Mr. 

jntzel  and  a  party  with  the  canoes,  which  had  been 

►aired.    Following  the  water-course  as  far  as  pi-acti- 


IP 


s#.- 


-4. 


-4i4 


"'Wvfp^ 


70 


I'lIOGKESS   OF   AllCriC   DISCOVERY. 


cable  to  Winter  Lake,  Franklin  followed  himsolf  with 
Jlepbiirn,  three  Canadians,  two  Indian  hunters,  and 
tlie  two  Esquimaux,  and  joined  Dr.  liichardson  on  the 
22d.  On  the  25th  they  all  resumed  their  journey,  and, 
as  they  proceeded  down  the  river,  were  fortunate  in 
killing,  occasionally,  several  musk  oxen. 

On  the  15th  they  got  a  distinct  view  of  the  sea  from 
the  summit  of  a  hill ;  it  appeared  choked  with  ice  and 
full  of  islands.  About  this  time  they  fell  in  with  small 
parties  of  Esquimaux. 

On  the  19th  Mr.  Wentzel  departed  on  his  return  for 
Slave  Lake,  taking  with  him  four  Canadians,  who  had 
been  discliarged  for  the  ^^urpose  of  reducin<|  the  expen- 
diture of  provisions  as  much  as  possible,  and  di.spatclic^ 
to  be  forwarded  to  England,  lie  was  also  instructed 
to  cause  the  Indians  to  deposit  a  relay  of  pr«^)visions  at 
Fort  Enteri^rise,  ready  for  tlie  j^arty  siiould  they  return 
tliat  way.  The  remainder  of  the  i^arty,  including  offi- 
cers, amounted  to  twenty  ])ersons.  The  distance  that 
had  been  traversed  from  Fort  Enterprise  to  the  moutli 
of  the  river  was  about  331:  miles,  and  the  canoes  had  t' 
be  dra<r2:cd  120  miles  of  this. 

Two  coiis])icuou8  capes  were  named  by  Franklin  after 
Ilearne  and  Mackenzie  ;  and  a  river  which  falls  into  tlie 
sea,  to  tlie  westward  of  the  Cop2:)ermine,  he  called  aftir 
his  companion,  Richardson. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  Franklin  and  his  party  cmbarkc<l 
in  their  two  canoes  to  navigate  the  Polar  Sea,  to  tlie 
eastward,  liaving  with  them  provisions  for  fifteen  dav.s 

On  the  25th  they  doubled  a  bluff  cape,  which  w;i^ 
named  after  Mr.  Earrow,  of  the  Admiralty.  An  open- 
ing on  its  eastern  side  received  the  appellation  of  Imiian 
Harbor,  and  a  group  of  islands  were  called  after  Piv- 
lessor  Jameson.  Within  the  next  fortnight,  additiori^ 
were  made  to  their  stock  of  food  by  a  feW-  deer  and  oii;. 
or  tv.'o  bears,  which  were  shot.  Being  less  fortunate 
afterward,  and  with  no  prospect  of  increasing  their  ?ii]- 
]dy  of  provision,  the  daily  allowance  to  eacli  man  wii^ 
limited  to  a  handful  of  pemmican  and  a  small  portion 
•+' portable  soup.  '  • 


jy  return 
Yiwj:  ofii- 
TK'C  that 
ic  moiitl: 
}s  bad  t ' 

Idin  after 
into  the 
led  after 

nnltarketl 

■U,  to  till 

;eii  davr. 
111  eh  "\V!i> 
n  opc'i!- 

if  Illlliai: 

rter  Pi"- 

kdditiuii- 
I*  and  cii.. 
brtniiatc 

;lieir  ^W 

man  wa- 
porti'-'i! 


FILVNKLIN  S   FIKST   LA^;i)    KXI'IODITION. 


7i 


Oil  tliG  morning  of  tlie  5th  of  Annjnst  tlioy  came  to 
the  mouth  of  a  river  blocked  up  with  shoals,  which 
Franklin  named  after  his  friend  and  companion  Back. 
The  time  spent   in   exploring  Arctic  and   Melville 
Sounds  and  Bathurst  Inlet,  and  tlie  failure  of  meeting 
witli  Esquimaux  from  whom  provisions  could  be  ol> 
taiued,  precluded  any  possibility  of  reaching  Repulse 
]5;iy,  and  therefore  having  but  a  day  or  two's  provisions 
]' it,  Franklin  considered  it  prudent  to  turn  back  after 
]\':u'hing  Point  Turnagain,  having   sailed  nearly  000 
jvogi-apiiical  miles  in  tracing  the  deeply  indented  coast 
•f  (Joronation  Gulf  from  tlie  Coppermine  River.     On 
he  liiid  August,  the  return  voyage  was  commenced, 
he  boats  making  for  Hood's  River  by  the  way  of  the 
"  I'ctic  Sound,  and  being  taken  as  far  up  the  stream  as 
ossible.     On  the  31st  it  was  found  impossible  to  pro- 
eed  with  them  farther,  and  smaller  canoes  were  made, 
uitiible  for  crossing  any  of  the  rivers  that  might  ob- 
|i^r;i  ■[  their  progress.     The  weight  carried  by  each  man 
Jviis  about  00  lbs.,  and  with  this  tliey  progressed  at  the 
ite  of  a  mile  an  hour,  including  rests. 
On  the  5th  of  September,  having  nothing  to  eat,  the 
t  piece  of  pemmican  and  a  little  arrow-root  having 
rnied  a  scanty  supper,  and  being  without  the  means 
of  making  a  fire,  they  remained  in  bed  all  day.     A  se- 
vere snow-storm  lasted  two  days,  and  the  snow  even 
drifted  into  their  tents,  covcrim:^  their  blankets  several 
inches.     "  Our  suffering  (says  Fi-anklin)  from  cold,  in  a 
<|omfortless  canvass  tent  in  such  weather,  with  the  tein- 
>'rature  at  20°,  and  witliout  fire,  will  easilv  be  im- 
ined  ;  it  was,  however,  less  than  that  which  we  felt 
'om  liungcr." 

Weak  from  fasting,  and  their  garments  stiffened  with 

e  frost,  after  packinor  tjieir  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes 

e  ]-)ooY  travelers  again  set  out  on  the  7th. 

After  feeding  almost  exclusively  on  several  species 

Gyropliora,  a  lichen  known  as  trlj)e  de  roche^  wiiich 

farcely  allayed  the  pangs  of  liunger,  on  the  10th  "  they 

)t  a  good  meal  l)y  killing  a  musk  ox.     To  skin  ancl 

It  up  the  animal  was  the  vvoi-k  of  a  few  minutes.    The 


1 


l\ 


i 


^ 


73 


I'KCGKKSS    01-'    AlCCTIC    DISCO VEUV. 


contents  of  its  Btomiich  were  devoured  upon  tiie  spot, 
and  tlio  raw  intestines,  which  were  next  attacked,  were, 
])r(>noiinced  by  the  most  delicate  amongst  us  to  be  ex- 
cellent." 

"Wearied  and  worn  out  with  toil  and  suffering,  nuiny 
of  the  party  got  careless  and  indifferent.  One  of  the 
canoes  was  broken  and  abandoned.  With  an  improvi- 
dence scarcely  to  be  credited,  three  of  the  fishing-net.s 
were  also  thrown  away,  and  the  floats  burnt. 

On  the  17th  they  managed  to  allay  the  pangs  of  hun- 
ger by  eating  pieces  of  singed  hide,  and  a  little  trlj)'-  <-l 
roclie.  This  and  some  mosses,  with  an  occasional  sol- 
itary partridge,  formed  their  invariable  food ;  on  verv 
many  days  even  this  scanty  sui)ply  could  not  be  obtained, 
and  their  appetites  l)ecame  ravenous. 

Occanionally  they  picked  up  pieces  of  skin,  and  a 
few  bones  of  deer  which  had  been  devoured  by  thu 
wolves  in  the  previous  spring.  The  bones  were  ren- 
dered friable  by  burning,  and  now  and  then  their  oM 
shoes  were  added  to  the  repast. 

On  the  20th  they  reached  abend  of  the  Coppermiiu'. 
which  terminated  in  Point  Lake.  The  second  cauuf 
bad  l)ecn  demolished  and  abandoned  by  the  beai-ers  on 
the  23d,  and  they  were  thus  left  without  any  means  of 
water  transport  across  the  lakes  and  river. 

On  this  day  tlie  carcass  of  a  deer  was  discovered  in 
tlie  cleft  of  a  rock,  into  whicli  it  had  fallen  in  the  spriiia. 
It  was  i)utrid,  but  little  less  acceptable  to  the  poor  st;ii'v- 
ing  travelers  on  that  account;  and  a  fire  being  kin- 
dled a  large  portion  was  devoured  on  the  spot,  aftbr'l- 
ing  an  unexpe'^'ted  breakfast. 

On  the  first  of  October  one  of  tlie  party,  who  LiK^ 
l)een  out  hunting,  brought  in  the  antlers  and  backboiii' 
of  anotlier  deer,  which  had  l)een  killed  in  the  summer, 
The  wolves  and  birds  of  prey  had  picked  them  clean, 
but  there  still  remained  a  quantity  of  the  spinal  niai' 
row,  whicli  they  had  not  been  able  to  extract.  Tlii-. 
although  putrid,  was  esteemed  a  valuable  prize,  aiii 
the  spine  being  divided  into  portions  was  distribute'! 
equally.      "  After  eating  the  marrow,  (snyr?  Frunkliri.i 


franklin's  first  land  expedition. 


78 


lie  spot, 
;d,  Mcrci 
0  be  ex- 

'X,  many 

3  of  the 

mpi'uvi- 
ing-uets 

of  huTi- 

iiial  sol- 
oil  \(iv\- 
btaliiL'iL 

I,  and  ;i 

by  the 

'ere  ri'ii- 

lieir  <,>M 

»erinl!R\ 
d  caiit'C 

leans  ui' 

ored  ill 

)!•  st:ii'\ - 
ng  l<ii!- 
,  afi'or'i- 

'llO     l!U>' 

aekboiir 
iiniTiier. 
11  clean, 
lal  niar- 


M. 


which  was  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate  the  lips,  we  ren- 
dered tlie  bones  friable  by  burning,  and  ate  them  also." 

Tlie  strength  of  the  whole  party  now  began  to  fail, 
from  the  privation  and  fatigue  which  they  endured. — 
Fianklin  was  in  a  dreadfully  debilitated  state.  Mr. 
Hood  was  also  reduced  to  a  perfect  shadow,  from  the 
severe  bowel-complaints  which  the  tripe  de  roche  never 
tailed  to  give  him.  Back  was  so  feeble  as  to  require 
the  support  of  a  stick  in  walking,  and  Dr.  Eicharasou 
hud  lameness  superadded  to  weakness. 

.\.  rude  canoe  was  constructed  of  willows,  covered 
witli  canvass,  in  which  the  party,  one  by  one,  managed 
to  reach  in  safetv  the  soutnern  bank  of  the  river  on 
the  Jrth  of  October,  and  went  supperless  to  bed.  -  On 
the  following  morning,  previous  to  setting  out,  the 
whole  party  ate  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and 
whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  to  strengthen  their 
stomachs  for  tne  fatigue  of  the  day's  journey. 

Mr.  Hood  now  broke  down,  as  did  two  or  three  more 
of  the  party,  and  Dr.  Eichardson  kindly  volunteered 
to  remain  with  them,  while  the  rest  pushed  on  to  Fort 
Enterprise  for  succor.  Not  being  able  to  find  any  tripe 
de  roche^  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea- 
plant  {Ledrum  palustre^  var.  decumhens^  and  ate  a 
few  morsels  of  burnt  leather  for  supper.  This  contin- 
ued to  be  a  frequent  occurrence. 

Others  of  the  party  continued  to  drop  down  with  fa- 
tigue and  weakness,  until  they  were  reduced  to  five 
persons,  besides  Franklin.  When  they  had  no  food  or 
nourishment  of  any  kind,  fchey  crept  under  their  blank- 
ets, to  drown,  if  possible,  the  gnawing  pangs  of  hunger 
and  fatigue  by  sleep.  At  length  they  reached  Fort  En- 
terprise, and  to  their  disappointment  and  grief  found 
it  a  perfectly  desolate  habitation.  There  was  no  de- 
posit of  provision,  no  trace  of  the  Indians,  no  letter 
from  Mr.  Wentzel  to  point  out  where  the  Indians  might 
be  found.  "It  would  be  impossible  (says  Franklin,)  to 
describe  our  sensations  after  entering  this  miserable 
abode,  and  discovering  how  we  had  been  neglected  : 
the  whole  party  shed  tears,  not  so  much  for  our  own 


ff- 


»..i 

m. 


74 


PKOtiKKtiS   OF   AKCnC    DlfciCU\IiKY. 


f 


fate  as  for  that  of  our  friends  in  the  rear,  whose  lives 
depended  entirely  on  our  sending  immediate  relief 
from  this  place."  A  note,  however,  was  found  here 
from  Mr.  Eack,  stating  that  he  had  reached  the  house 
by  another  route  two  days  before,  and  was  going  in 
search  of  the  Indians.  If  he  was  unsuccessful  in  find- 
ing them,  he  proposed  walking  to  Fort  Providence, 
and  sending  succor  from  thence,  but  he  doubted  whether 
he  or  his  party  could  perform  the  journey  to  that  place 
in  their  present  debilitated  state.  Franklin  and  his 
small  party  now  looked  round  for  some  means  of  pres- 
ent subsistence,  and  fortunately  discovered  several  deer 
skiLS,  which  had  been  thrown  away  during  their  foi-nier 
residence  here.  The  bones  weix)  gathered  from  the 
heap  of  ashes ;  these,  with  the  skins  and  the  addition 
of  tripe  de  rochc^  they  considered  would  support  life 
tolerably  well  for  a  short  time.  The  bones  were  quite 
acrid,  and  the  soup  extracted  from  them,  quite  putrid, 
excoriate  ^  the  mouth  if  taken  alone,  but  it  was  some- 
what milder  when  boiled  with  the  lichen,  and  the  mix- 
ture was  even  deemed  palatable  with  a  little  salt,  of 
which  a  cask  had  been  left  here  in  the  spring.  Tliey 
procured  fuel  by  pulling  up  the  flooring  of  the  rooms, 
and  water  for  cooking  by  melting  the  snow. 

Augustus  arrived  safe  after  them,  just  as  they  were 
sitting  round  the  fire  eating  their  supper  of  singed 
skin. 

Late  on  the  13th,  Belanger  also  reached  the  house, 
with  a  note  from  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  yet 
found  no  trace  of  the  Indians.  The  poor  messenger 
was  almost  speechless,  being  covered  with  ice  and 
nearly  frozen  to  death,  having  fallen  into  a  rapid,  and 
for  the  third  time  since  the  party  left  the  coast,  narrowly 
escaped  drowning.  After  being  well  rubbed,  having 
had  his  dress  changed,  and  some  warm  soup  given 
him,  he  recovered  sufficiently  to  answer  the  questions 
put  to  him. 

Under  the  impression  that  the  Indians  must  be  on 
their  way  to  Fort  Providence,  and  that  it  would  be 
possible  to  overtake  them,  as  they  usually  traveled 


'1 


franklin's  first  land  expedition. 


76 


"'ti 


slowly  with  their  farailies,  and  there  being  likewise  a 
prospect  of  killing  deer  about  Reindeer  Lake,  where 
they  had  been  usually  found  abundant,  Franklin  de- 
termined to  take  the  route  for  that  post,  and  sent  word 
to  Mr.  Back  by  Belanger  to  that  effect  on  the  18th. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  Franklin  set  out  in  com- 
pany with  Benoit  and  Augustus  to  seek  relief,  having 
patched  three  pairs  of  snow  shoes,  and  taken  some 
sinj^ed  skin  for  their  support.  Poltier  and  Sam  and  re 
had  volunteered  to  remain  at  the  house  with  Adam, 
who  was  too  ill  to  proceed.  They  were  so  feeble  as 
scarcely  to  be  able  to  move.  Augustus,  the  Esqui- 
maux, tried  for  fish  without  success,  so  that  their  only 
fare  was  skin  and  tea.  At  night,  composing- them- 
selves to  rest,  they  lay  close  to  each  other  for  warmth, 
but  found  the  night  bitterly  cold,  and  the  wind  pierced 
through  their  famished  frames. 

On  resuming  the  journey  next  morning,  Franklin 
had  the  misfortune  to  break  his  snow-shoes,  by  falling 
between  two  rocks.  This  accident  prevented  him  from 
keeping  pace  with  the  others,  and  in  the  attempt  he 
became  quite  exhausted ;  unwilling  to  delay  their  pro- 
gress, as  the  safety  of  all  behind  depended  on  their 
obtaining  early  assistance  and  immediate  supplies, 
Franklin  resolved  to  turn  back,  while  the  others 
pushed  on  to  meet  Mr.  Back,  or,  missing  him,  they 
were  directed  to  proceed  to  Fort  Providence.  Frank- 
lin found  the  two  Canadians  he  had  left  at  the  house 
dreadfully  weak  and  reduced,  and  so  low  spirited  that 
he  had  great  difficulty  in  rallying  them  to  any  exer- 
tion. As  the  insides  of  their  mouths  had  become  sore 
from  eating  the  bone-soup,  they  now  relinquished  the 
use  of  it,  and  boiled  the  skin,  which  mode  of  dressing 
was  found  more  palatable  than  frying  it.  They  had 
pulled  down  nearly  all  their  dwelling  for  fuel,  to  warm 
themselves  and  cook  their  scanty  meals.  The  tripe 
de  roehe,  on  which  they  had  depended,  now  became 
entirely  frozen;  and  what  was  more  tantalizing  to 
their  perishing  frames,  was  the  sight  of  food  within 
their  reach,  which  they  could  not  procure.    "  "We  saw 


.^, 


76 


I'llOORESS   OF  AKCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


(snys  Fnuiklin)  a  herd  of  rcirulocr  sporting  on  tho 
rivor,  about  lialf  a  mile  from  tho  house  ;  they  rc- 
itijiined  tlierc  a  long  time,  but  none  of  the  party  felt 
theinHelves  strong  enough  to  go  after  them,  nor  was 
there  one  of  us  who  could  have  lired  a  gun  without 
resting  it." 

While  they  were  seated  round  the  fire  this  evening, 
discoursing  about  the  anticipated  relief,  tho  sound  of 
voices  was  heard,  which  was  thought  with  joy  to  be 
that  of  the  Indians,' but,  to  their  bitter  disappoint- 
ment, the  debilitated  frames  and  emaciated  counte- 
nances of  Dr.  Kichardson  and  Hepburn  presented 
themselves  at  the  door.  They  were  of  course  gladly 
received,  although  each  markecl  the  ravages  which  fam- 
ine, care  and  fatigue  had  made  on  the  other.  Tho 
Doctor  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral  tone  of 
the  voices  of  his  friends,  which  he  requested  them  to 
make  more  cheerful  if  possible,  unconscious  that  his 
own  partook  of  the  same  key. 

Hepburn  having  shot  a  partridgi  ,  which  was  brought 
to  the  house.  Dr.  Richardson  tore  out  the  feathers, 
and  having  held  it  to  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  divided 
it  into  six  portions.  Franklin  and  his  three  compan- 
ions ravenously  devoured  their  shares,  as  it  was  the 
first  morsel  of  flesh  any  of  them  liad  tasted  for  thirty- 
one  days,  unless,  indeed,  the  small  gristly  particles 
which  they  found  adhering  to  the  pounded  bones  m.ay 
be  termed  flesh.  Their  spirits  were  revived  by  this 
small  supply,  and  tho  Doctor  endeavored  to  raise 
them  still  higher  by  the  prospect  of  Hepburn's  being 
able  to  kill  a  deer  next  day,  as  they  had  seen,  and 
even  iired  at,  several  near  the  house.  He  endeavored, 
too,  to  rouse  them  into  some  attention  to  the  comfort 
of  tlieir  apartment.  Having  brought  his  Prayer-book 
and  Testament,  some  prayers,  psalms,  and  portions 
of  scripture,  appropriate  to  their  situation,  were  read 
out  by  Dr.  Richardson,  and  they  retired  to  their 
blankets. 

Early  next  morning,'  the  Doctor  and  Hepburn  went 
out  in  search  of  game ;  but  though  they  saw  several 


Va 


FItANKLIJS's   VlKtiT   LAUD  EXl'HUnHjS, 


77 


lierds  of  deer,  and  fired  some  shots,  they  were  not  ro 
jbrtuiiattt  lis  to  kill  any,  being  too  weak  to  liohl  their 
l*\mA  steadily.  The  cold  compelled  the  tornier  to  re- 
turn soon,  but  Hepburn  perseveringly  j>erBistud  until 
hito  in  tlie  evening. 

"  My  occupation,  (continues  Franklin)  was  to  search 
for  8kins  under  the  snow,  it  being  now  our  object  iui- 
iiuuliately  to  get  all  that  we  could;  bnt  1  had  not 
Htreni]!;th  to  drag  in  more  than  two  of  those  which  were 
witliiu  twenty  yards  of  the  liouso,  until  the  Doctor 
cuiiie  and  at>8isted  nie.  Wo  made  up  our  stock  to 
twenty-six;  but  several  of  them  were  putrid,  and 
scarcely  eatable,  oven  by  men  suffering  the  extremity 
(»f  famine.  Peltier  and  Samandre  continued  very 
weak  and  dispirited,  and  they  wore  unable  to  cut  fire- 
wood. Hepburn  had,  in  consequence,  that  laborious 
task  to  perform  after  he  came  back  late  from  hunting.'* 
To  the  exertions,  honesty,  kindness,  and  consideration 
of  this  worthy  man,  the  safety  of  most  of  the  party  is 
to  be  attributed.  And  I  may  here  mention  that  Sir 
.Tolm  Franklin,  when  he  became  governor  of  Van 
Diemen's  Land,  obtained  for  him  a  good  civil  appoint- 
ment. This  deserving  man,  I  am  informed  by  Mr. 
Ijarrow,  is  now  in  England,  having  lost  his  ofHce, 
which,  I  believe,  has  been  abolished.  It  is  to  bo 
lioped  something  will  be  done  for  him  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

After  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and  bono 
soup.  Dr.  Richardson  acquainted  Franklin  wuth  the 
events  that  had  transpired  since  their  parting,  particu- 
larly with  the  afflicting  circumstances  attending  the 
death  of  Mr.  Hood,  and  Michel,  the  Iroquois  ;  the  par- 
ticulars of  which  I  shall  now  proceed  to  condense  from 
his  narrative. 

After  Captain  Franklin  had  bidden  them  farewell, 
having  no  tripe  de  roc/ie  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the 
country  tea-plant,  which  was  grateful  from  its  warmth, 
although  it  afforded  no  sustenance.  They  then  retired 
to  bed,  and  kept  to  their  blankets  all  next  day,  as  the 
Buow  drift  was  so  heavy  as  to  prevent  their  lighting  a 


I 


78 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIO  DISi 


'B' 


■# 


firo  with  tho  green  and  frozen  willows,  which  were 
their  only  fuel. 

Through  the  extreme  kindness  and  forethought  of 
a  lady,  the  party,  previous  to  leaving  London,  had 
been  furnished  witn  a  small  collection  of  religious 
books,  of  which,  (says  Richardson,)  we  still  retained 
two  or  three  of  the  most  portable,  and  they  proved  of 
incalculable  benefit  to  us. 

"  We  road  portions  of  them  to  each  other  as  we  lay 
in  bed,  in  addition  to  the  morning  and  evening  service, 
and  found  that  tbev  inspired  us  on  each  perusal  with 
so  strong  a  sense  ot  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent 
God,  that  our  situation,  even  in  these  wilds,  appeared 
no  longer  destitute ;  and  we  conversed  not  only  with 
calmness,  but  with  cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unre- 
strained confidence  the  past  events  of  our  lives^nd 
dwelling  with  hope  on  our  future  prospects."  How 
beautiful  a  picture  have  we  here  represented,  of  true 
piety  and  resignation  to  the  divine  will  inducing  pa- 
tience and  submission  under  an  unexampled  load  of 
misery  and  privation. 

Michel,  the  Iroquois,  joined  them  on  the  9th  of  Oc- 
tober, having,  there  is  strong  reason  to  believe,  mur- 
dered two  ot  the  Canadians  who  were  with  him,  Jean 
Baptiste  Belanger  and  Perrault,  as  they  were  never 
seen  afterward,  and  he  gave  so  many  rambling  and 
contradictory  statements  of  his  proceedings,  that  no 
credit  could  be  attached  to  his  story. 

The  travelers  proceeded  on  their  tedious  journey  by 
slow  stages.  Mr.  Hood  was  much  affected  with  dim 
ness  of  sight,  giddiness,  and  other  symptoms  of  ex 
treme  debility,  which  caused  them  to  move  slowly  and 
to  make  frequent  halts.  Michel  absented  himself  all 
day  of  the  10th,  and  only  arrived  at  their  encampment 
near  the  pines  late  on  the  11th. 

He  reported  that  he  had  been  in  chase  of  some  deer 
which  passed  near  his  sleeping  place  in  the  morning, 
and  although  he  did  not  come  up  with  them,  yet  he 
found  a  wolf  which  had  been  killed  by  the  stroke  of 
a  deer's  horn,  and  had  brought  a  part  of  it. 


#■ 


>?«  .  w 


.■^: 


FBANKI.IN  8   FIRST   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


79 


Eichardson  adds  —  "We  implicitly  believed  this 
r<tor7  then,  but  afterward  became  aware  —  from  cir- 
cumstances, the  details  of  which  may  be  spared — that 
it  must  have  been  a  portion  of  the  body  of  Bel  anger, 
or  Perrault.  A  question  of  moment  here  presents  it- 
self— namely,  whether  he  actually  murdered  these 
men,  or  either  of  them,  or  whether  he  found  the  bodies 
in  the  snow.  Captain  Frankliif,  who  is  the  best  able  to 
judge  of  this  matter,  from  knowing  their  situation  when 
he  parted  from  them,  suggested  the  former  idea,  and 
that  both  these  men  had  been  sacrificed  ;  that  Michel, 
having  already  destroyed  Belanger,  completed  his 
crime  by  Perrault's  death,  in  order  to  screen  himself 
from  detection." 

Although  this  opinion  is  founded  only  on  circum- 
stances, and  is  unsupported  by  direct  evideice,  it  has 
been  judged  proper  to  mention  it,  especially  as  the 
subsequent  conduct  of  the  man  showed  that  he  was 
capable  of  committing  such  a  deed.  It  is  not  easy  to 
assign  any  other  adequate  motive  for  his  concealing 
from  Richardson  that  terrault  had  turned  back ;  while 
his  request,  over-night,  that  they  would  leave  him  the 
hatchet,  and  his  cumbering  himself  with  it  when  he 
went  out  in  the  morning,  unlike  a  hunter,  who  makes 
•  use  only  of  his  knife  when  he  kills  a  deer,  seem  to 
indicate  that  he  took  it  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  up 
eomething  that  he  knew  to  be  frozen. 

Michel  left  them  early  next  day,  refusing  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson's offer  to  accompany  him,  and  remamed  out  all 
day.  He  would  not  sleep  in  the  tent  with  the  other 
two  at  night.  On  the  13th,  there  being  a  heavy  gale, 
they  passed  the  day  by  their  fire,  without  food.  Next 
day,  at  noon,  Michel  set  out,  as  he  said,  to  hunt,  but 
returned  unexpectedly  in  a  short  time.  This  conduct 
surprised  his  companions,  and.  his  contradictory  and 
evasive  answers  to  their  questions  excited  their  sus- 
picions still  further.  He  subsequently  refused  either 
to  hunt  or  cut  wood,  spoke  in  a  very  surly  manner, 
tT\d  threatened  to  leavo  them.  When  reasoned  with 
by  Mr,  Hood,  his  anger  was  excited,  and  he  replied  it 


80 


PBOOBBB9  OF  ARCTIO  DISCOVERT. 


was  BO  uso  hunting — there  were  no  animals,  and  they 
had  better  kill  and  eat  him. 

"At  this  period,"  observes  Dr.  Richardson,  "wo 
avoided,  as  much  as  possible,  conversing  upon  the 
hopelessness  of  our  situation,  and  generally  endeav- 
ored to  lead  the  conversation  toward  our  future  pros- 
pects in  life.  The  fact  is,  that  with  the  decay  of  our 
strength,  our  minds  decayed,  and  we  were  no  longer 
able  to  bear  the  contemplation  of  the  horrors  that  sur- 
rounded us.  Yet  we  were  calm  and  resigned  to  our 
fate ;  not  a  murmur  escaped  us,  and  we  were  punctual 
and  fervent  in  our  addresses  to  the  Supreme  Being." 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  they  again  urged  Michel 
to  go  a-hunting,  that  he  might,  if  possible,  leave  them 
some  provision,  as  he  intended  quitting  them  next 
day,  but  he  showed  great  unwillingness  to  go  out,  and 
lingered  about  the  lire  under  the  pretense  of  cleaning 
his  gun.  After  the  morning  service  had  been  read, 
Dr.  Richardson  went  out  to  gather  some  tripe  de  roche^ 
leaving  Mr.  Hood  sittiag  before  the  tent  at  the  fire- 
side, arguing  with  Michel;  Hepburn  was  employed 
cutting  fire-wood.  While  they  were  thus  engaged, 
the  treacherous  Iroquois  took  the  opportunity  to  place 
his  gun  close  to  Mr.  Hood,  and  shoot  him  through  the 
head.  He  represented  to  his  companions  that  the  de- 
ceased had  killed  himself.  On  examination  of  the 
body,  it  was  found  that  the  shot  had  entered  the  back 
part  of  the  head  and  passed  out  at  the  forehead,  and 
that  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been  applied  so  close 
as  to  set  fire  to  the  nightcap  behind.  Michel  pro- 
tested his  innocence  of  the  crime,  and  Hepburn  and 
Dr.  Richardson  dared  not  openly  evince  their  suspi- 
cion of  his  guilt. 

Next  day,  Dr.  Richardson  determined  on  goin^ 
straight  to  the  Fort.  They  singed  the  hair  off  a  pan 
of  the  buffalo  robe  that  belonged  to  their  ill-fated  com 
panion,  and  boiled  and  ate  it.  In  the  course  of  theii 
march,  Michel  alarmed  them  much  by  his  gesturet 
and  conduct,  was  constantly  muttering  to  himself,  ex- 
pressed an  unwillingness  to  go  to  the  Fort,  and  tried 


FBANKLINB   FIRST   LAND  EXPEDITION. 


81 


i' 


to  persuade  them  to  go  southward  to  the  woods,  where 
lie  said  he  could  maintain  himself  all  the  winter  by 
killing  deer.  "  In  consequence  of  this  behavior,  and 
the  expression  of  his  countenance,  I  requested  him 
(says  Richardson)  to  leave  us,  and  to  go  to  the  south- 
ward by  himself.  This  proposal  increased  his  ill-na- 
ture ;  he  threw  out  some  obscure  hints  of  freeing 
lilmself  from  all  restraint  on  the  morrow  ;  and  I  over- 
heard him  muttering  threats  against  Hepburn,  whom 
he  openly  accused  of  having  told  stories  against  him. 
He  also,  for  the  first  time,  assumed  such  a  tone  of 
superiority  in  addressing  me,  as  evinced  that  he  con- 
sidered us  to  be  completely  in  his  power  ;  and  he  gave 
vent  to  several  expressions  of  hatred  toward  the  white 
people,  some  of  whom,  he  said,  had  killed  and  eaten 
his  uncle  and  two  of  his  relations.  In  short,  takmg 
every  circumstance  of  his  conduct  into  consideration, 
I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  he  would  attempt  to 
destroy  us  on  the  first  opportunity  that  offered,  and 
that  he  had  hitherto  abstained  from  doing  so  from  his 
ignorance  of  his  way  to  the  Fort,  but  that  he  would 
never  suffer  us  to  go  thither  in  company  with  him. 
Hepburn  and  I  were  not  in  a  condition  to  resist  even 
an  open  attack,  nor  could  we  by  ary  device  escape 
from  him — our  united  strength  was  tar  inferior  to  his , 
and,  beside  his  gun,  he  was  arir>ed  Vrktii  two  pietols, 
an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  kniffi. 

"In  the  afternoon,  coming  to  9  tock  on  v  li^ch  there 
was  some  tt'ipe  de  roche,  he  ha'ted,  and  sari  he  would 
gather  it  while  we  went  on,  aDd  'lieit  he  would  soon 
overtake  us. 

^  "  Hepburn  and  I  were  now  left  together  for  tlie  first 
time  since  Mr.  Hood's  death,  and  h  3  acquainted  me  with 
several  material  circumstances,  wiilch  he  had  observed 
of  Michel's  behavior,  and  which  confirmed  me  in  the 
opinion  that  there  was  no  safety  for  us  f;-.  opt  in  his 
death,  and  ho  otiered  to  be  the  instrument  of  it.  I  de- 
tennined,  however,  as  I  was  tlioroughly  convinced  of 
the  necessity  of  such  a  dreadful  act,  to  take  the  whole 

responsibility  upon  myself;  and  immediately  upon  Mi- 
4* 


mi 


1    ;yfl 


■'  nm 


82 


PE0GEE8S   OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVERT. 


iM 


chel's  coming  up,  I  put  an  end  to  hia  life  by  sbootin*^ 
him  througii  the  head  with  a  pistol.  Had  my  own  life 
alone  been  threatened,"  observes  Richardson,  in  conclu- 
sion, "  1  would  not  have  purchased  it  by  such  a  measure, 
but  I  considered  myself  as  intrusted  also  with  the  pro- 
tection of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who,  by  his  humane  atten 
tions  and  devotedness,  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me, 
that  I  feit  more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own. 

"  Michel  had  gathered  no  tripe  dc  roohe^  and  it  was  evi- 
dent to  us  that  he  had  halted  for  the  purpose  of  putting 
his  gun  in  order  with  the  intention  of  attacking  us  — 
per.haps  while  we  were  in  the  act  of  encamping." 

Persevering  onward  in  their  journey  as  well  as  the 
^now  storms  and  their  feeble  limbs  would  permit,  they 
naw  severa^  herds  of  deer  ;  but  Hepburn,  who  used  to 
f*e  a  good  marksman,  was  now  unable  to  hold  the  gun 
?!traight.  Following  the  track  of  a  wolverine  which  had 
bf^n  dragging  something,  he  however  found  the  spine 
of  a  deer  which  it  had  dropped.  It  was  clean  picked, 
and  at  least  one  season  old,  but  they  extracted  the  spinal 
marrow  from  it. 

A  species  of  Gornicularia,  a  kind  of  lichen,  was  also 
met  with,  that  was  found  good  to  eat  when  moistened 
and  toasted  over  the  fire.  They  had  still  some  pieces 
of  singed  buffalo  hide  remaining,  and  Hepburn,  on 
one  occasion,  killed  a  partridge,  after  firing  several 
times  at  a  flock.  About  dusk  of  the  29th  they  reached 
the  Fort. 

"  Upon  entering  the  desolate  dwelling,  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  enibraoing  Capt.  Franklin,  but  no  words 
can  convey  an  idea  of  the  filth  and  wretchedness  that 
met  our  eyes  on  looking  around.  Our  own  misery  had 
stolen  upon  us  by  degrees,  and  we  were  accustomed  to 
the  contemplation  of  each  other's  emaciated  figures; 
but  the  ghastly  countenances,  dilated  eye-balls,  and 
eepulchral  voices  of  Captain  Franklin  and  those  with 
him  were  more  than  we  could  at  first  bear." 

Thus  ends  the  narrative  of  Richardson's  journey. 

To  resume  the  detail  of  proceedings  at  the  Fort.  On 
the  1st  of  IS'ovember  two  of  the  Canadians,  Peltier  and 
Samandre,  died  from  sheer  exnaustion. 


FaANKUN  8   riEST   LAJSfD   EXPEDITION. 


83 


On  the  Ttii  of  No'^anber  they  were  relieved  from 
their  prirations  and  sufferings  by  the  arrival  of  three 
bulians,  bringing  a  supply  of  dried  meat,  some  fat,  and 
a  few  toiigues,  which  had  been  sent  off  by  Back  with 
all  baste  from  Akaitcho's  encampment  on  the  5th. 
These  Indians  nursed  and  attenaed  them  with  the 
^rratest  care,  cleansed  the  house,  collected  fire-wood, 
and  studied  every  means  for  their  general  comfort.  Their 
Huiferiugs  were  now  at  an  end.  On  the  26th  o^  Nuvom- 
]>or  thev  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  the  Indian  chief, 
Akaitcho.  On  the  6th  of  December  Belanger  and  an- 
other Canadian  arrived,  bringing  further  supplies,  and 
letters  from  England,  from  Ms.  Back,  and  their  former 
companion,  Mr.  Wentzel. 

The  dispatches  from  England  announced  the  success- 
ful termination  of  Captain  Parry's  voyage,  and  the  pro- 
motion of  Captain  Franklin,  Mr.  Back,  and  of  poor  Mr. 
Hood. 

On  the  18th  they  reached  the  Hudson's  Bay  Compa- 
ny's establishment  at  Moose  Deer  Island,  where  they 
joined  their  friend  Mr.  Back.  They  remained  at  Fort 
Chipewyan  until  June  of  the  following  year. 

It  is  now  necessary  to  relate  the  story  of  Mr.  Back's 
journey,  which,  like  the  reet,  is  a  sad  tale  of  suffering 
and  privation.. 

Having  been  directed,  on  the  4th  of  October,  1821, 
to  proceed  with  St  Germain,  JRelanger,  and  Beaupar- 
lartr  :,o  Fort  Enterprise,  in  'be  hopes  of  obtaining  relief 
for  the  party,  he  set  out.  (Jp  to  the  7th  they  met  with 
a  little  tripe  de  roche^  but  this  failing  them  they  were 
compelled  to  satisfy,  or  rather  allay,  the  cravings  of 
linnger,  by  eating  a  gun-cover  and  a  pair  of  old  shoes. 
The  grievous  disappointment  experienced  on  arriving 
at  the  house,  and  findincr  it  a  deserted  ruin,  cannot  bo 

told.  ; 

"Without  the  assistance  of  the  Indians,  bereft  of 
every  resource,  we  felt  ourselves,"  says  Mr.  Back,  "  re- 
duced to  the  most  miserable  s^ate,  which  was  rendered 
still  worse  from  the  rc-;')llectiou  that  our  friends  in  the 
rear  were  as  miserable  as  ourselves.     For  the  moment, 


i) 


I 


84 


rROORESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISOOVKRY. 


w 


however,  hunger  prevailed,  and  each  beean  to  gnaw 
the  scraps  of  putrid  and  frozen  meat  and  skin  that  were 
lying  about,  without  waiting  to  prepare  them."  A  fire 
was,  however,  afterward  made,  and  the  neck  and  bones 
of  a  deer  found  in  the  house  were  boiled  and  devoured. 

After  resting  a  day  at  the  house,  Mr.  Back  pushed  on 
with  his  companions  in  search  of  the  Indians,  leaving  a 
note  for  Captain  Franklin,  informing  him  if  he  failed  in 
meeting  with  the  Indians,  he  intended  to  push  on  for 
tlie  first  trading  establishment  —  distant  about  130 
miles  —  and  send  us  succor  from  thence.  On  the  11th 
he  set  .out  on  the  journey,  a  few  old  skins  having  been 
first  collected  to  serve  as  tbod. 

On  the  13th  and  14th  of  October  thej*  had  nothing 
whatever  to  eat.  Belanger  was  sent  off  wit^i  a  note  to 
Franklin.  On  the  15th  they  were  fortunate  enough  to 
fall  in  with  a  partridge,  the  bones  of  which  were  eaten, 
and  the  remainder  eserved  for  bait  to  fish  with. 
Enough  tripe  de  roche  was,  however,  gathered  to  make 
a  meal.  Eeauparlant  now  lingered  oehind,  worn  out 
by  extreme  weakness.  On  the  17th  a  number  of  crows, 
perched  on  some  high  pines,  led  them  to  believe  that 
some  carrion  vv'as  near ;  and  on  searching,  several  heads 
of  deer,  half  buried  in  the  snow  and  ice,  without  eyes 
or  tongues,  were  found.  An  expression  of  "  Oh,  merci- 
ful God,  we  are  saved,"  broke  from  them  both  and  with 
feelings  more  easily  imagined  than  described,  they 
shook  hands,  not  knowing  what  to  say  for  joy. 

St.  Germain  was  sent  back,  to  bring  up  Beauparlant, 
tor  whose  safety  Back  became  very  anxious,  but  he 
found  the  poor  fellow  frozen  to  death. 

The  night  (  f  tlie  17th  wp.s  cold  and  clear,  but  they 
could  get  no  e'eep.  "Fi  via  the  pains  of  having  eaten, 
we  suffered  lol^serves  Back)  the  most  excruciating  tor- 
ments, though  I  in  particular  did  not  eat  a  quarter  of 
what  would  have  satisfied  me ;  it  might  have  been  from 
having  eaten  a  quantity  of  raw  or  frozen  sinews  of  the 
legs  of  deer,  which  neither  of  us  could  avoid  doing,  so 
great  was  our  hunger." 

On  tlie  following  day  Belanger  returned  famishing 


;en, 


PARRY  8  FIliST   VOYAGE. 


85 


udth  hunger,  and  told  of  the  pitiable  state  of  Franklin 
and  his  reduced  party.  BacK,  both  this  day  and  the 
next,  tried  to  urge  on  his  companions  toward  the  object 
of  their  journey,  but  he  could  not  conquer  their  stub- 
born determinations.  They  said  they  were  unable  to 
proceed  from  weakness  ;  knew  not  the  way  ;  that  Back 
wanted  to  expose  them  again  to  death,  and  in  fact  loi- 
tered greedily  about  the  remnants  of  the  deer  till  the 
end  of  the  month.  "  It  was  not  without  the  greatest 
difficulty  that  I  could  restrain  the  men  from  eating  ev- 
ery scrap  they  found  ;  though  they  were  well  aware  of 
the  necessity  there  was  of  being  economical  in  our  pres- 
ent situation,  and  to  save  whatever  they  could  for  our 
journey,  yet  they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  ;  and 
whenever  my  back  was  turned  they  seldom  failed  to 
snatch  at  the  nearest  piece  to  them,  whether  cooked  or 
raw.  Having  collected  with  great  care,  and  by  self- 
denial,  two  email  packets  of  dried  meat  or  sinews  suffi- 
cient (for  men  who  knew  what  it  was  to  fast)  to  last  for 
eight  days,  at  the  rate  of  one  indifferent  meal  per  day, 
they  set  out  on  the  30th.  On  the  3d  of  November  they 
came  on  the  track  of  Indians,  and  soon  reached  the 
tents  of  Akaitcho  and  his  followers,  when  food  was 
obtained,  and  assistance  sent  oft'  to  Franklin. 

In  July  they  reached  York  Factory,  from  whence 
they  had  started  three  years  before,  and  thus  tenninated 
a  journey  of  5550  miles,  during  which  human  courage 
and  patience  were  exposed  to  trials  such  as  few  can 
bear  with  fortitude,  unless,  as  is  seen  in  Franklin's  in- 
teresting narrative,  arising  out  of  reliance  on  the  ever- 
sustaining  care  of  an  Almighty  Providence. 

Parry's  First  Voyage,  1819-1820. 

The  Admiralty  having  determined  to  continue  the 
progress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  seas,  Lieut.  W.  E. 
Parry,  who  had  been. second  in  command  under  Capt. 
Ross,  in  tlie  voyiige  of  the  previous  year,  was  selected 
to  take  cliarge  of  a  new  expedition,  consisting  of  the 
Hecla  and  Griper.  The  cliief  object  of  tliis  voyage  was 
to  pursue  the  survey  of  Lancaster  Sound,  and  decide 


; 


B0 


rU00RI'»8    OF   ARCnC   DISCOVERY. 


on  the  probability  of  a  northwest  passage  in  that  di»«.-c- 
tion ;  failing  in  whicli,  Smith's  and  Jones'  Sc  nn<U 
were  to  be  explored,  with  the  same  purpose  in  vew. 

The  respective  officers  appointed  to  the  ^liius. 
were  — 

Heda^  375  tons : 

Lieut,  and  Commander  — r  "W".  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  Beechey. 

Captain  —  E.  Sabine,  R.  A.,  Astronomer. 

Purser — W.  H.  Hooper. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  Alexander  Fisher. 

Midshipmen  —  James  Clarke  Ross,  J.  Nias,  "W.  J 

Dealy,  Charles  Palmer,  John  Bushnan. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master;  G.  Craw 

furd,  mate. 
44  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  58. 

Griper^  180  tons :  ,  . 

Lieutenant  and  Commander  —  Matthew  Liddon. 
Lieutenant  —  H.  P.  Hoppner. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J .  Beverley. 
Midshipmen  —  A.  Reid,  A.    M.    Skene,  "W.    N 

Griffiths. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  George  Fyfe,  master ;  A.  Eid 

mate. 
28  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  <fec. 

Total  complement,  36. 

The  ships  were  raised  upon,  strengthened,  and  well 
found  in  stores  and  provisions  for  two  years.  On  the 
lltli  of  May,  1819,  they  got  away  from  the  Thames, 
and  after  a  lair  passage  fell  in  with  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  ice  in  the  middle  of  Davie'  Straits  about  the 
20th  of  June  ;  it  consisted  chiefly  of  fragments  of  ice- 
bergs, on  the  outskirts  of  the  glaciers  that  form  along 
the  shore.  After  a  tedious  passage  through  the  floes 
of  ice,  eftected  chiefly  by  heaving  and  warping,  they 
nnivcd  at  Possessiou  Bay  on  the  morning  of  the  Slst 


pakuy's  FIKST  VOVAOE. 


87 


.J 


N 


ell 

le 

■OS, 

11- 

10 

le- 

8t 


of  Jwly,  being  just  a  month  earlier  than  they  were 
here  on  the  previous  year.  As  many  as  fifty  whales 
were  seen  here  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours.  On  land- 
ing, they  were  not  a  little  astonished  to  find  their  own 
footprints  of  the  previous  year,  still  distinctly  visible  in 
tlie  snow.  During  an  excursion  of  three  or  four  miles 
into  the  interior,  a  fox,  a  raven,  several  ring-plovers 
and  snow-buntings,  were  seen,  as  also  a  bee,  from  which 
it  may  be  inferred  that  honey  can  be  procured  even  in 
these  wild  regions.  Vegetation  flourishes  remarkably 
well  here,  considering  the  high  latitude,  for  wherever 
there  was  moisture,  tufts  and  various  ground  plants 
grew  in  considerable  abundance. 

Proceeding  on  from  hence  into  the  Sound,  they  veTi- 
fied  the  opinion  which  had  previously  been  entertained 
by  many  of  the  officers,  that  the  Croker  Mountains 
had  no  existence,  for  on  the  4th  of  August,,  the  ships 
were  in  long.  86°  56'  W.,  three  degrees  to  the  westward 
of  where  land  had  been  laid  down  by  Ross  in  the  pre- 
vious year.  The  strait  was  named  afler  Sir  John  Bar- 
row, and  was  fgjiod  to  be  pretty  clear ;  but  on  reach- 
ing Leopold  Island,  the  ice  extended  in  a  compact  body 
to  the  north,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  pene- 
trate. Rather  than  remain  inactive,  waiting  for  the 
dissolution  of  the  ice,  Parry  determined  to  try  what 
could  be  done  by  shaping  his  course  to  the  southward, 
through  the  magnificent  inlet  now  named  Regent  In- 
let. About  the  6th  of  August,  in  consequence  of  the 
local  attraction,  the  ordinary  compasses  became  use- 
less from  their  great  variation,  and  the  binnacles  were 
removed  from  the  deck  to  the  carpenter's  store-room  as 
useless  lumber,  the  azimuth  compasses  alone  remain- 
ing ;  and  these  became  s©  sluggish  in  their  motions, 
that  they  required  to  be  very  nicely  leveled,  and  fre- 
quently tapped  before  the  card  traversed.  The  local  at- 
traction was  very  great,  and  a  mass  of  iron-stone  found 
on  shore  attracted  the  magnet  powerfully.  The  ships 
proceeded  120  miles  from  the  entrance. 

On  the  Sth  of  August,  in  lat.  72°  13'  K.,  and  long. 
90"  29'  VV.,  (his  extreme  point  of  view  Parry  named 


Inl 


8H 


rnooKESS  or  akctio  ivih(;<)Vkuv. 


Capo  Kater,)  the  Hecla  came  to  a  compact  barrier  of 
ice  extending  across  the  inlet,  which  rendered  one  of 
two  alternatives  necessary,  either  to  remain  here  until 
an  opening  took  place,  or  to  return  agpin  to  the  north- 
wara.  The  latter  course  was  deternnned  on.  Makinj^, 
therefore,  for  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  on 
the  20th  a  narrow  channel  was  discovered  between  tlie 
ice  and  the  land.  On  the  22d,  proceeding  due  west, 
after  passing  several  bays  and  headlands,  tfiey  noticed 
two  large  openings  or  passages,  the  lirst  of  which,  more 
than  ei^ht  leagues  in  wiclth,  he  named  Wellington 
Channel.  To  various  capes,  inlets,  and  groups  of  isl- 
ands passed,  Parry  assigned  the  names  of  Jlothani, 
Barlow,  Cornwallis,  Bowen,  By  am  Martin,  Grifhtli, 
Lowther,  Bathurst,  &c.  On  the  28th  a  boat  was  sent 
on  shore  at  By  am  Martin  Island  with  Capt.  Sabine, 
Mr.  J.  C.  Ross,  and  the  surgeons,  to  make  observations, 
and  collect  specimens  of  natural  history.  The  vegeta- 
tion was  ratlier  luxuriant  for  these  regions;  moss  in 
particular  grew  in  abundance  in  the  moist  valleys  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  streams  that  flowed  from  the 
hills.  The  ruins  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  were  observed. 
Tracks  of  reindeer,  bears,  and  musk  oxen  were  noticed, 
nnd  the  skeletons,  skulls,  and  horns  of  some  of  these 
animals  were  found. 

On  the  let  of  September,  they  discovered  the  large 
and  fine  island,  to  which  Parry  has  given  the  name  of 
Melville  Island  after  the  First  Lord  of  the  Admiralty 
of  that  day.  On  the  following  day,  two  boats  with  a 
party  of 'officers  were  dispatched  to  examine  its 'shores. 
Some  reindeer  and  musK  oxen  were  seen  on  landing, 
but  being  startled  by  the  sight  of  a  dog,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  get  near  them.  There  seemed  here  to  bo 
a  great  quantity  of  the  pnimal  tribe,  for  the  tracks  of 
bears,  oxen,  ana  deer  were  numerous,  and  the  horns, 
skin,  and  skulls  were  also  found.  The  burrows  of  foxes 
and  field-mice  were  observed;  several  ptarmigan  were 
shot,  and  flocks  of  snow-bunting,  geese,  and  ducks,  were 
noticed,  probably  commencing  their  migration  to  a 
milder  climate.    Along  the  beach  there  was  an  iin- 


•I 


n 
M 


-m 


PAItRY'ti   URST   VOYAOK. 


80 


)arricr  of 
!tl  one  ot* 
lere  until 
;h«  north- 
Milk  in  ;Xi 
Strait,  on 

tween  tli« 
(hie  west, 
y  noticed 
lich,  moro 
Wellington 
ips  of  ifel- 

JJotlmni, 
,  Griffith, 

was  sent 
t.  Sabine, 
ervations, 
10  vegeta- 
;  mo8s  in 
illeys  and 

from  the 
observed, 
e  noticed, 
of  these 

the  large 
name  of 
dmiralty 
;8  with  a 
8 'shores, 
landing, 
as  found 
lere  to  be 
racks  of 
He  horns, 
of  foxes 
an  were 
eks,  were 
ion  to  a 
an  ira- 


mense  number  of  small  shrimps,  and  various  kinds  of 
kihells. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Parrv  had  the  satisfaction 
of  crossing  the  mendian  of  110°  W.,  in  the  latitude  of 
74°  44'  20'',  by  which  the  expedition  became  entitled 
to  the  reward  of  £5000,  granted  by  an  order  in  Coun- 
cil upon  the  Act  68  Geo.  III.,  cap.  20,  entitled,  "An 
Act  for  more  effectually  discovering  the  longitude  at 
6t'u,  and  encouraging  attempts  to  find  a  northern  nas- 
Biige  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  and  to 
ai»i»ioach  the  North  Pole."  This  ^'f^t  was  not  announced 
to  the  crews  until  the  foUowiii'  .y ;  to  celebrate  the 
event  they  gave  to  a  bold  cape  oi  tlie  island  then  lying 
in  sight  the  name  of  Bounty  Capo ;  and  so  anxious 
were  they  now  to  press  forward,  that  they  began  to 
calculate  the  time  when  they  should  reach  the  longi- 
tude of  130°  W.,  the  second  place  specified  by  the  order 
in  Council  for  reward.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  5th, 
the  compactness  of  the  ice  stopped  them,  and  therefore, 
for  the  first  time  since  leaving  England,  the  anchor  was 
let  go,  and  that  in  110°  W.  longitude. 

A  boat  was  sent  on  shore  on  the  6th  to  procure  turf 
or  peat  for  fuel,  and,  strangely  enough,  some  small 
pieces  of  tolerably  good  coal  were  found  in  various 
places  scattered  over  the  surface.  A  party  of  ofticers 
that  went  on  shore  on  the  8th  killed  several  grouse  on 
the  island,  and  a  white  hare ;  a  fox,  some  field-mice, 
several  snow-bunting,  a  snowy  owl,  and  four  musk  oxen 
were  seen.  Ducks,  m  small  nocks,  were  seen  along  the 
shore,  as  well  as  several  glaucous  gulls  and  tern,  and  a 
solitary  seal  was  observed. 

As  the  ships  were  coasting  along  on  the  7th,  two 
herds  of  musk  oxen  were  seen  grazing,  at  the  distance 
of  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  beach  :  one 
nerd  consisted  of  nine,  and  the  other  of  five  of  these 
cattle.    They  had  also  a  distant  view  of  two  reindeer. 

The  average  weight  of  the  hares  here  is  about  eight 
pounds.  Mr.  Fisher,  the  surgeon,  from  whose  interest- 
ing journal  I  quote,  states  that  it  is  very  evident  that 
this  island  must  be  frequented,  if  not  constantly  inhal>- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0     ^^  tii 

m  m 


1.1   ?.'*' 

—        H£ 


6" 


y 


y 


Photographic 
.Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

(7l6)t72-4S03 


'^ 


c^ 


o^ 


90 


PKOOKKS8   OF   AJiCTIO   DltiC'OVIiUV. 


ited,  by  musk  oxen  in  great  numbers,  for  their  bones  and 
horns  are  found  scattered  about  in  all  directions,  and 
the  greatest  part  of  the  carcass  of  one  was  discovered 
on  one  occasion.  The  skulls  of  two  carnivorous  ani- 
mals, a  wolf  and  a  lynx,  were  also  picked  up  here.  A 
party  sent  to  gather  coals  brought  on  board  about  hall 
a  bushel — all  they  could  obtain. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  Mr.  George  Fyfe,  the 
master  pilot,  with  a  party  of  six  men  belonging  to  tlio 
Griper,  landed  with  a  view  of  making  an  exploringtrip 
of  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  into  the  interior.  They 
only  took  provisions  for  a  day  with  them.  Great  un- 
easiness was  felt  that  they  did  not  return  ;  and  when 
two  days  elapsed,  fears  began  to  be  entertained  fur 
their  safety,  and  it  was  thought  they  must  have  lost 
their  way. 

Messrs.  Keid,  (midshipman)  Beverly,  (assistant  sur- 
geon) and  Wakeman  (clerk)  volunteered  to  go  in  searcli 
of  their  missing  messmates,  but  themselves  lost  their 
way  ;  guided  by  the  rockets,  fires,  and  lights  exhibited, 
they  returned  by  ten  at  night,  almost  exhausted  with 
cold  and  fatigue,  but  without  intelligence  of  their  friends. 
Four  relief  parties  were  therefore  organized,  and  sent 
out  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  to  prosecute  the  search, 
and  one  of  them  tell  in  with  and  brought  back  four  of 
the  wanderers,  and  another  the  remaining  three  before 
nightfall. 

The  feet  of  most  of  them  were  much  frost-bitten,  and 
they  were  all  wearied  and  worn  out  with  their  wander- 
ings. It  appears  they  had  all  lost  their  way  the  eve- 
ning of  the  day  they  went  out.  With  regard  to  food, 
they  were  by  no  means  badly  off,  for  they  managed  to 
kill  as  many  grouse  as  they  could  eat. 

They  found  fertile  valleys  and  level  plains  in  the  in- 
terior, abounding  with  grass  and  moss  ;  also  a  lake  of 
fresh  water,  about  two  miles  longby  one  broad,  in  which 
were  several  species  of  trout.  They  saw  several  herds 
of  reindeer  on  the  plains,  and  two  elk ;  also  many 
hares,  but  no  musk  oxen.  Some  of  those,  however,  who 
had  been  in  search  of  the  stray  party,  noticed  herds  of 
these  cattle. 


PAltBY^S   F1K8T   VOYAGE. 


91 


The  winter  now  began  to  set  in,  and  tho  packed  ice 
was  so  thick,  that  fearB  were  entertained  of  being  locked 
up  in  an  exposed  position  on  the  coast ;  it  was,  there- 
fore, thought  most  prudent  to  put  back,  and  endeavor 
to  reach  the  harbor  which  had  been  passed  some  days 
l)efore.  The  vessels  now  got  seriously  buifeted  among 
tho  floes  and  hummocks  ot  ice.  The  Griper  was  forced 
airround  on  the  beach,  and  for  some  time  was  in  a  very 
critical  position.  Lieutenant  Liddon  having  been  con- 
lined  to  his  cabin  by  a  rheumatic  complaint,  was  prest?cd 
at  this  juncture  by  Commander  Parry  to  allow  himself 
to  ]>e  removed  to  the  Ilecla,  but  he  nobly  refused,  stating 
that  he  should  be  the  last  to  leave  the  ship,  and  contin- 
luMJ  giving  orders.  Tho  beach  being  sand,  the  Griper 
was  got  off  without  injury. 

On  the  23d  of  September  they  anchored  off  the 
moutli  of  the  harbor,  and  the  thermometer  now  fell  to 
l\  The  crew  were  set  to  v/ork  to  cut  a  channel  through 
the  ice  to  the  shore,  and  in  the  course  of  three  days,  a 
cimjil,  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  was  completed, 
through  which  the  vessel  was  tracked.  The  ice  was 
eight  or  nine  inches  thick.  An  extra  allowance  of  pre- 
served meat  was  served  out  to^e  men,  in  considera- 
tion of  their  hard  labor.  TheJPssels  were  unrigged, 
and  every  thing  made  snug  ana  secure  for  passing  the 
H'inter.  Captam  Parry  gave  the  name  of  the  Kortli 
Georgian  Islands  to  this  group,  after  his  Majesty,  King 
(ireorge  III.,  but  this  has  since  been  changed  to  the 
Parry  Islands.  * 

Two  reindeer  were  killed  on  the  1st  of  October,  and 
t*everal  white  bears  were  seen.  On  the  6th  a  deer  was 
Ivillod,  which  weighed  170  pounds.  Seven  were  seen 
on  the  10th,  one  of  which  was  killed,  and  another  se- 
verely wounded.  Following  after  this  animal,  night 
overtook  several  of  the  sportsmen,  and  the  usual  sig- 
nals of  rockets,  lights,  &c.  were  exhibited,  to  guide 
them  back.  One,  John  Pearson,  a  marine,  had  his 
hands  so  frost-bitten  that  he  was  obliged,  on  the  2d  of 
November,  to  ha^  e  the  four  fingers  of  nis  left  hand  am- 
putated.   A  wolf  and  four  reindeer  were  seen  on  tho 


I 


*K. 


^M 


i 


i 

! 


92 


I'KOUIUlSB  or  AUCnC  DISOUVliJiY. 


*. 


14th.  A  herd  of  fifteen  deer  were  seen  on  the  15th; 
but  those  who  saw  them  could  not  bring  down  any,  as 
their  fowlingrpieces  missed  fire,  from  the  moisture 
freezing  on  the  locks.  On  the  17th  and  18th  herds  of 
eleven  and  twenty  respectively,  were  seen,  and  a  small 
one  was  shot.  A  fox  was  caught  on  the  29th,  which  is 
described  as  equally  cunning  with  his  brethren  of  the 
temperate  regions. 

To  make  the  long  winter  pass  as  cheerfully  as  possi- 
ble, plays  were  acted,  a  school  established,  and  a  news- 
paper set  on  foot,  certainly  the  first  periodical  publica- 
tion that  had  ever  issued  trom  the  Arctic  regions.  The 
title  of  this  journal,  the  editorial  duties  of  which  were 
undertaken  by  Captain  Sabine,  was  "The  Winter 
Chronicle,  or  New  Georgia  Gazette."  Tlie  first  num- 
ber appeared  on  the  1st  of  Kovember. 

On  the  evening  of  the  5th  of  JN^ovember  the  farce  of 
"  Miss  in  her  Teens "  was  brought  out,  to  the  groat 
amusement  of  the  ships'  companies,  and,  considerinii; 
the  local  difticulties  and  disadvantages  under  which  thu 
j)erfonncrs  lal)ored,  tkeir  first  esstjy,  according  to  the 
officers'  report,  did  them  infinite  credit.  Two  hours 
were  spent  very  happUv  in  their  theater  on  the  quarter- 
deck, notwithstandlroHke  thermometer  outside  the  ship 
stood  at  zero,  and  wifflln  as  low  as  the  freezing  point, 
except  close  to  the  stoves,  where  it  was  a  little  higher. 
Another  play  was  performed  on  the  24th,  and  so  on 
every  fortnight.  The  men  were  employed  during  the 
(fay  in  banking  up  the  ships  with  snow. 

On  the  23d  of  December,  the  oflficers  performed  "  The 
Mayor  of  Garrett,"  which  was  followed  by  an  after- 
piece, written  by  Captain  Parry,  entitled  the  "  North- 
W  est  Passage,  or  the  Voyage  Finished."  The  sun  hav- 
ing long  since  departed,  the  twilight  at  noon  was  so 
clear  that  books  in  the  smallest  print  could  be  distinctly 
read. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  the  ferce  of  "  Bon  Ton  "  was 
performed,  with  the  thermometer  at  27°  below  zero. — 
The  cold  became  more  and  more  intense.  On  the  12th 
it  was  51°  below  zero,  in  the  open  air ;  brandy  froze  to 


I'AUKV  S    FlUf*T    \  OVAGE. 


83 


tlie  consistency  of  honey;  wlien  tasted  iu  this  state  it 
letlt  a  smarting  on  the  tongue.  The  greatest  cold  expe- 
rienced was  on  the  14th  of  January,  when  the  ther- 
mometer tell  to  62°  below  zero.  On  the  3d  of  Febru- 
ary, the  sun  was  first  visi})le  above  the  horizon,  after 
eighty-four  days'  absence.  It  was  seen  from  the  main- 
top of  the  ships,  a  height  of  about  fifty-one  feet  above 
the  sea. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  24th  a  fire  broke  out  at  the 
Rtorehouse,  which  was  used  as  an  observatory.  All 
liands  proceeded  to  the  spot  to  endeavor  to  subdue  the 
llanies,  but  having  only  snow  to  throw  on  it,  and  the 
mats  with  which  tlie  interior  was  lined  being  very  drj, 
it  was  found  impossible  to  extinwuisli  it.  The  snow, 
however,  covered  the  astronomicalinstrnments  and  se- 
cured them  from  the  fire,  and  when  the  roof  had  been 
pulled  down  the  fire  had  burned  itself  out.  Consider- 
able as  the  fire  was,  its  influence  or  heat  extended  but 
a  very  short  distance,  for  several  of  the  officers  and 
luen  were  frost-bitten,  and  confined  from  their  eftbrts 
for  several  weeks.  John  Smith,  of  the  Artillery,  who 
was  Oaptain  Sabine's  servant,  and  who,  together  with 
Sergeant  Martin,  happened  to  be  in  the  house  at  the 
thne  the  fire  broke  out,  suftered  much  more  severely. 
In  their  anxiety  to  save  the  dipping  needle,  which  was 
standing  close  to  the  stove,  and  of  which  they  knew 
the  value,  they  immediatelv  ran  out  %vith  it;  ana  Smith 
not  having  time  to  put  on  his  gloves,  had  his  fingers  in 
half  an  hour  so  benumbed,  and  the  animation  so  com- 
pletely suspended,  that  on  his  being  taken  on  board 
by  Mr.  Edwards,  and  having  his  hands  plunged  into 
a  basin  of  cold  water,  the  simace  of  the  water  was  im- 
mediately frozen  by  the  intense  cold  thus  suddenly 
communicated  to  it;  and  notwithstanding  the  most  hu- 
mane and  unremitting  attention  paid  him  by  the  med- 
ical gentlemen,  it  was  found  necessary,  some  time  after, 
to  resort  to  the  amputation  of  a  part  of  four  fingers 
on  one  hand,  and  three  on  the  other. 

Parry  adds,  "  the  appearance  which  our  faces  pre- 
Bouted  at  the  fire  was  a  curious  one;  almost  every  noso 


94 


PKOQKESB  OF   AKCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


and  cheek  having  become  quito  white  with  frost  bites, 
in  five  nainutes  alter  being  exposed  to  the  weather,  so 
that  it  was  deemed  necessarv  for  the  medical  gentle- 
men, together  with  some  others  appointed  to  assist 
them,  to  go  constantly  round  while  the  men  were  work 
ing  at  the  fire,  and  to  rub  with  snow  the  parts  affected, 
in  order  to  restore  animation." 

The  weather  got  considerably  milder  in  March;  on 
the  6th  the  •  thermometer  got  up  to  zero  for  the  first 
time  since  tlie  17th  of  December.  The  observatory 
house  op  shore  was  now  rebuilt. 

The  vapor,  which  had  been  in  a  solid  state  on  the 
ship's  sides,  now  thawed  below,  and  the  crew,  scraping 
off  the  coating  of  ice,  removed  on  the  8th  of  March, 
above  a  hundred  bucketsfull  each,  containing  from  five 
to  six  gallons,  which  had  accumulated  in  less  than  a 
month,  occasioned  principally  from  the  men's  breath, 
and  the  steam  of  victuals  at  meals. 

The  scurvy  now  broke  out  among  the  crew,  and 
prompt  measures  were  taken  to  remedy  it.  Captain 
tarry  took  great  pains  to  raise  mustard  and  cress  in 
his  cabin  for  the  men's  use. 

On  the  30th  of  April,  the  thermometer  stood  at  the 
freezing  point,  "w  hich  it  had  not  done  since  the  12th  of 
September  last.  On  the  1st  of  May,  the  sun  was  seen 
at  midnight  for  the  first  time  that  season. 

A  survey  was  now  taken  of  the  provisions,  fuel,  and 
stores;  much  of  the  lemon  juice  was  found  destroyed 
from  the  bursting  in  the  bottles  by  the  frost.  Having 
been  only  victualed  for  two  years,  and  half  that  period 
having  expired,  Captain  Parry,  as  a  matter  of  prudence 
reduced  all  hands  to  two-thirds  allowance  of  all  sorts  of 
provisions,  except  meat  and  sugar. 

The  crew  were  now  set  to  work  in  cutting  awav  the 
ice  round  the  ships :  the  average  thickness  was  round 
to  be  seven  feet.  Many  of  the  men  who  had  been  out 
on  excursions  began  to  suffer  much  from  snow  blind- 
ness. The  sensation  when  first  experienced,  is  de- 
scribed as  like  that  felt  when  dust  or  sand  gets  into 
the  eyes.    They  were,  however,  cured  in  the  course  of 


'  » 


TAURYS    FinST    VOYAHi:. 


95 


two  or  three  days  by  kecpiiif]^  the  eyes  covered,  and 
l)athin^  them  occasion  ally  with  sugar  of  lead,  or  some 
other  cooliiifj  lotion. 

To  prevent  the  recurrence  of  the  complaint,  the  men 
were  ordered  to  wear  a  piece  of  crape  or  some  substi- 
tute for  it  over  the  eyes. 

The  channel  round  the  ships  was  completed  by  the 
17th  *A'  JNlay,  and  they  rose  nearly  two  feet,  having 
])L'en  kept  down  by  the  pressure  of  tiie  ice  round  them, 
altliuugh  lii»;htened  durin<jj  the  wijiter  by  the  consump- 
tion of  food  and  fuel.  On  the  2ith,  they  were  a^ton- 
islied  by  two  showers  of  rain,  a  most  extraordinaiy 
]tliC'nomenon  in  these  reo-ions.  byuiptoms  of  scurvy 
;iii:ain  ai)])eared  ainon^  the  crew  ;  one  of  the  seamen 
wiio  had  been  recently  cured,  havin<;  imprudently  been 
in  the  habit  of  eating  the  fat  skimndnijs,  or  "slush,"'  in 
Mliich  salt  meat  had  been  boiled,  and  which  was  served 
otit  for  their  lamps.  As  the  hills  in  many  ])laces  now  be- 
came exposed  and  vegetation  conunenced,  two  or  three 
l>ieces  of  ground  M'cre  dug  up  and  sown  with  seeds  of 
I'adishes,  onions,  and  other  vegetables.  Captain  Parry 
determined  before  leaving  to  make  an  excursion  across 
the  island  for  the  purpose  of  examining  its  size,  bound- 
aries, productions,  etc.  Accordingly  on  the  1st  of  J  une, 
an  expedition  was  organized,  consisting  of  the  com- 
mander, Captain  Sabine,  Mr.  Fisher,  the  assistant-sur- 
ireon,  Mr.  John  Nias,  midshi]>man  of  the  llecla,  and 
^[r.  Reid,  midshipman  of  the  Griper,  with  two  ser 
gcants,  and  five  seamen  and  marines.  Three  weeks 
])i'ovision8  were  taken,  which,  together  with  two  tentS: 
wood  for  fuel,  and  other  articles,  weighing  in  all  about 
Srxl  lbs.,  was  drawn  on  a  cart  prepared  for  the  purpose 
l)v  the  men. 

Each  of  the  officerR  carried  a  kna]^sack  with  his  own 
private  baggage,  weighing  from  18  to  24:  lbs.,  also  hia 
gun  and  ammunition.  Tlie  party  started  in  high  glee, 
under  three  hearty  cheers  from  their  comrades,  sixteen 
of  whom  accompanied  them  for  five  miles,  carrying 
their  knapsacks  and  drawing  the  cart  for  them. 

They  traveled  by  nigbf,  takinj?  u\-t  by  day,  as  it  w'>i 


/ 


06 


rnoouKss  ui*  Auirnc  iHaCovKuv. 


* 


1-' 


found  to  bo  wanner  for  slcop,  and  tlioy  liad  ou]y  a  cov 
oring  of  a  single  blanket  each,  beside  the  clutlies  ti»ey 
had  on. 

On  the  2d,  tlicy  came  to  a  small  lake,  about  b.iU'  a 
mile  long,  and  met  with  eider-ducks  and  ptaiini;;an  ; 
Boven  of  the  latter  were  shot.  Frum  tlie  top  of  a  range 
of  hills  at  which  they  now  arrived,-  they  could  see  the 
masts  of  the  ships  in  Winter  Harbor  with  the  nuked 
eye,  at  about  ten  or  eleven  miles  distant.  A  vast  j^hiin 
was  also  seen  extending  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward. 

The  party  breakfasted  on  biscuit  and  a  pint  of  gruel 
each,  made  of  salep  powder,  wliich  was  tuund  to  be  a 
very  palatable  diet.  Ueindeer  with  their  fawna  wero 
met  with. 

They  derived  great  assistance  in  dragging  their  cart 
by  rigging  upon  it  one  of  the  tent-blankets  as  a  sail,  a 
truly  nautical  contrivance,  and  the  wind  favoring  tiieni, 
they  made  great  progress  in  this  M'ay.  Captain  Saldino 
being  taken  ill  with  a  bowel  complaint,  had  to  be  con- 
veyed on  this  novel  sail  carriage.  They,  however,  had 
some  u^Iy  ravines  to  pass,  the  crossings  of  which  wero 
very  tedious  and  troublesomo.  On  the  7th  the  party 
came  to  a  large  bay,  which  was  named  atler  their  ships, 
Hccla  and  Griper  J>ay.  The  blue  ice  was  cut  through 
by  hard  work  with  boarding  pikes,  the  only  instruments 
they  had,  and  after  digging  fourteen  and  a  half  feet, 
the  water  rushed  up ;  it  was  not  very  salt,  but  sufficient 
to  satisfy  them  that  it  was  the  ocean.  An  island  seen 
in  the  distance  was  named  after  Captain  Sabine  ;  some 
of  the  various  points  and  capes  were  also  named  after 
others  of  the  party.  Altliough  this  shore  was  found 
blocked  up  with  such  heavy  ice,  there  appear  to  be  times 
when  there  is  open  water  here,  for  a  piece  of  fir  wood 
seven  and  a  half  feet  long,  and  about  the  thickness  of 
a  man's  arm,  was  found  about  eighty  yards  inland  front 
the  hummocks  of  the  beach,  and  about  thirty  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Before  leaving  the  shore,  a  monu- 
ment of  stones,  twelve  feet  high,  was  erected,  in  which 
were  depo^iited,  in  a  tia  cylinder,  an  account  of  their 


rAltUYtJ  FI118T   VOYAGE. 


07 


?iiircee(Imf^s,  a  few  coins,  and  several  navul  buttons, 
'lie  expedition  now  turned  back,  shapinfij  its  courrio  in 
a  more  westerly  direction,  toward  some  high  blue  hills, 
which  had  long  been  in  sight.  On  many  days  several 
ptarmigans  were  shot.  The  horns  and  tracks  of  deer 
were  very  numerous. 

On  the  11th  they  came  in  sight  of  a  deep  gulf,  to 
which  Lieutenant  Liddon's  name  was  given  ;  the  two 
capes  at  its  entrance  being  called  after  Beechey  and 
Iloppner.  In  the  center  was  an  island  about  three-f^uar- 
tors  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  rising  abruptly  to  tlio 
height  of  700  feet.  The  shores  of  the  gulf  were  very 
rugged  and  precipitant,  and  in  descending  a  steep  hill, 
the  axle-tree  of  their  cart  broke,  and  tliey  had  to  leave 
it  behind,  taking  the  body  with  them,  however,  for  fuel. 
The  wheels,  which  were  left  on  the  spot,  may  astonish 
some  future  adventurer  who  discovers  them.  The  stores, 
ifec,  were  divided  among  the  officers  and  men. 

Making  their  way  on  the  ice  in  the  gulf,  tlie  island  in 
the  center  was  explored,  and  named  after  Mr.  Hooper, 
the  purser  of  the  Pocla.  It  was  found  to  be  of  sand- 
stone, and  very  barren,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the 
west  side.  Four  fat  geese  were  killed  here,  and  a  great 
many  animals  were  seen  around  the  gulf ;  some  atten- 
tion being  paid  to  examining  it  r  shores,  &c.,  a  fine  open 
valley  was  discovered,  and  tiici  tracks  of  oxen  and 
deer  were  very  numerous  ;  the  pasturage  appeared  to 
be  excellent. 

On  the  13th,  a  few  ptarmigan  and  golden  plover  were 
killed.  No  less  than  thirteen  deer  in  one  herd  were 
seen,  and  a  musk  ox  for  the  first  time  in  this  season. 

The  remains  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  were  discovered 
about  300  yards  from  the  beach.  Vegetation  now  be- 
gan to  flourish,  the  sorrel  was  found  far  advanced,  and 
a  species  of  saxifrage  was  met  with  in  blossom.  They 
reached  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  the  15th,  after  a 
journey  of  about  180  miles. 

The  ships'  crews,  during  their  absence,  had  been  occu- 
pied in  getting  ballast  in  and  re-stowing  the  hold. 

Shootmg  parties  were  now  sent  out  in  various  dircc- 
5 


08 


l'IiO(iUI«8    OF   AKCnC   I>IHCX)VKKY. 


V 


tionR  to  procure  game.  Dr.  Fislier^jjivos  an  intni'sflu'^ 
ftccount  of  his  ten  (lays'  excurt^ion  with  a  c(»uj)lc  of  nmn. 
Tlic  (leur  were  not  sonunierourt  as  thoy  expuctod  to  tiiul 
tliom.  About  thirty  were  seen,  of  which  his  ])ai'ty 
killed  hut  two,  which  were  very  lean,  wei^liin*^  only, 
when  skinned  and  cleanetl,  50  to  60  lbs.  A  couple  of 
wolves  were  seen,  and  some  foxes,  with  a  ^reat  many 
hares,  four  of  which  were  killed,  weighinc;  from  7  to  8 
lbs.  The  aquatic  birds  seen  were — brent  geese,  king 
ducks,  long-tailed  ducks,  and  arctic  and  glaucous  gulls. 
The  land  birds  wore  ptarmigans,  plovers,  sanderlings 
and  snow  buntings.  The  geeso  were  pretty  numerous 
for  the  first  few  nays,  but  got  wild  and  wary  on  being 
disturbed,  keeping  in  the  middle  of  lakes  out  of  gun- 
shot. About  a  dozen  were,  however,  killed,  and  litU'cn 
ptarmigans.  These  birds  are  represented  to  be  so  stu- 
pid, that  all  seen  may  be  shot.  Dr.  Fisher  was  sur- 
prised on  his  return  on  the  20th  of  June,  atler  his  ten 
days'  absence,  to  find  how  much  vegetation  had  ad- 
vanced ;  the  land  being  now  completely  clear  of  snow, 
was  covered  with  the  purple-colored  saxifrage  in  blos- 
som, with  mosses,  and  with  sorrel,  and  the  grass  was 
two  to  three  inches  long.  The  men  were  sent  out  twice 
a  week  to  collect  the  sorrel,  and  in  «  few^  minutes  enough 
could  be  procured  to  make  a  salad  for  dinner.  After 
being  mixed  with  vinegar  it  was  regularly  served  out 
to  the  men.  The  English  garden  seeds  that  had  been 
sown  got  on  but  slowly,  and  did  not  yield  any  produce 
in  time  to  be  used. 

On  the  30th  of  June  Wm.  Scott,  a  boatswain's  mate, 
who  had  been  afflicted  with  scurvy,  diai-rhcra,  tfec, 
died,  and  was  buried  on  the  2d  of  July  —  a  slab  of 
sandstone  bearing  an  inscription  carved  by  Dr.  Fisher, 
being  erected  over  his  grave. 

From  observations  made  on  the  tide  during  two 
months,  it  appears  that  the  greatest  rise  and  fall  hero 
is  four  feet  four  inches.  A  largo  pile  of  stones  was 
erected  on  the  14th  of  July,  upon  the  most  conspicuous 
hill,  containing  the  usual  notices,  coin?,  &c.,  and  on  a 
large  stone  an  inscription  was  left,  notitying  the  winter- 
ing of  the  ships  here. 


a  be 


I'AKIiY  S   illCST    VuVAOK. 


y?i 


On  tlio  Ist  of  Aufynsf,  tlio  ships,  wliich  had  lieon  pro- 
vionsly  warui'd  out,  <;ot  clear  ot  tho  harltor,  and  t'ouiul 
u  channel,  l)oth  eastward  and  westward,  ck'ar  of  ice, 
about  three  or  four  miles  in  breadth  alon;;  the  land. 

On  the  <)th  they  landed  on  the  island,  and  in  tho 
coiu'sc  of  the  ni^ht  killed  fourteen  hares  and  a  number 
of  glaneouH  gulls,  which  were  found  witli  their  young 
on  the  top  of  a  i»recij)itous,  insulated  rock. 

On  the  9th  the  voyu;jjers  liad  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
Bervin<^  an  instance  of  the  violent  pressure  that  takes 
place  occasionally  by  the  collision  of  heavy  ice.  "Two 
])ieces,"  says  l)r.  Fisher,  "•  that  hapi)entd  to  come  in 
contact  close  to  ns,  pressed  so  forcibly  aj^ainst  ono  an- 
other that  one  of  them,  althou<^li  forty-two  feet  thick, 
and  at  least  three  times  that  in  length  and  breadth,  was 
forced  np  on  its  edge  on  the  top  of  another  piece  of  ice. 
But  even  this  is  nothing  v.'hon  compared  with  the  pres- 
Gure  that  must  have  existed  to  pro(luce  the  efiects  that 
we  see  along  the  shore,  for  not  only  heaps  of  earth  and 
stones  several  tons  weight  are  forced  up,  but  hummocks 
of  ice,  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  thick,  are  piled  up  on  tho 
beach.  It  is  unnecessary  to  remark  that  a  ship,  although 
fortified  as  well  as  wood  and  iron  could  make  her,  would 
have  but  little  chance  of  withstanding  such  over- 
whelming force." 

This  day  a  musk-ox  was  shot,  which  weighed  moro 
than  700  lbs.;  the  carcass,  when  skinned  and  cleaned, 
yielding  421  lbs.  of  meat.  The  flesh  did  not  taste  so 
very  strong  of  musk  as  had  been  represented. 

The  ships  made  but  slow  progress,  being  still  thickly 
l)cset  with  floes  of  ice,  40  or  50  feet  thick,  and  had  to 
make  fast  for  security  to  hummocks  of  ice  on  the  beach. 

On  the  15th  and  IGth  they  were  off"  the  southwest 
point  of  tho  island,  but  a  survey  of  the  locality  from 
the  precipitous  cliff  of  Cape  Dundas,  presented  tho 
same  interminable  barrier  of  ice,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  A  bold  high  coast  was  sighted  to  the  southwest, 
to  which  the  name  of  Bank's  Land  was  given. 

Captain  Parry  states  that  on  the  23a  the  ships  re- 
ceived by  far  the  heaviest  shocks  they  had  experienced 


i  ' 


5' 


f 


100 


ritooiiEss  ui'  Auui'io  i)iHi(»vi:iiv. 


(luring  tlio  voyaco,  nnd  pcrforinod  six  miles  of  tlu^  most 
difHcult  navigation  ho  had  over  known  among  ieo. 

Two  muHk  oulls  wero  shot  on  tiio  24th  by  parties  who 
landed,  out  of  a  herd  of  seven  whicli  wero  seen.  They 
were  lighter  than  the  first  one  siiot  —  weighing  only 
about  300  lbs.  From  the  number  of  skulls  and  skele- 
tons of  these  animals  met  with,  and  their  capabilities 
of  enduring  the  rigor  of  the  climate,  it  seems  probable 
that  they  do  not  migrate  southward,  but  winter  on  this 
island. 

Attempts  wore  still  made  to  work  to  tho  eastward, 
but  on  the  25th,  from  want  of  wind,  and  the  closoness 
of  the  ice,  the  ships  were  obliged  to  make  fast  again, 
without  bavin*'  gamed  above  a  mile  after  several  hours' 
labor.  A  fresh  breeze  springing  up  on  the  2Cth  opened 
a  passage  along  shore,  and  the  ships  made  sail  to  tho 
eastward,  and  in  tho  evening  were  off  their  old  quarters 
in  Winter  Harbor.  On  tho  following  evening,  affer  a 
fine  run,  they  wero  off  the  east  end  of  Melville  Island. 
Lieut.  Parry,  this  day,  announced  to  the  ofiicers  and 
crew  that  aller  due  consideration  and  consultation,  it 
had  been  found  useless  to  prosecute  their  researches 
farther  westward,  and  therefore  endeavors  would  bo 
made  in  a  more  southerly  direction,  failing  in  which, 
tho  expedition  would  return  to  England.  Kegent  Inlet 
and  the  southern  shores  generally,  were  found  so  blocked 
up  with  ice,  that  tho  return  to  England  was  on  the  30th 
ot  August  publicly  announced.  This  day,  Navy  Board 
and  Admiralty  Inlets  were  passed,  and  on  the  1st  of 
September  the  vessels  got  clear  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and 
reached  Baffin's  Bay  on  the  6th.  Thev  fell  in  with  a 
whaler  belonging  to  Hull,  from  whom  they  learned  tho 
news  of  the  deatn  of  George  the  Third  and  the  Duke 
of  Kent,  and  that  eleven  vessels  having  been  lost  in  tho 
ice  last  year,  fears  were  entertained  for  their  safety. 
The  Friendship,  another  Hull  whaler,  informed  them 
that  in  company  with  the  Truelove,  she  had  looked  into 
Smith's  Sound  that  summer.  The  Alexander,  of  Aber- 
deen, one  of  the  ships  employed  on  the  former  voyage 
of  discovery  to  these  seas,  had  also  entered  Lancaster 


rAKUY  B  HECUNl)   VuYAOK, 


lul 


Sound.  Al'iiT  toucliIn|jf  at  Clyde'rf  River,  where  tliev 
int't  a  ^ood-naturi'd  triuc  of  Kfi<piiniaux,  theHliipM  maifo 
the  bi'ht  ot  thi'ir  wav  acruHH  tlie  Atlantic,  und  atU-r  a 
eonic'what  hoibteroUH  jiassage,  Coniniodure  Tarry  landed 
ftt  IVterhead  on  the  yoth  ot*  October,  and,  accompanied 
by  Cajjt.  Sabine  and  Mr.  IJoopcr,  posted  t^  Loudou. 


r 


M 


... 


I   ' 


Parky's  Second  Voyage,  1821— 1823. 

The  experience  whicli  Capt.  Parry  had  formed  in  hia 
])revious  vt»ya«<e,  led  him  to  entertain  the. opinion  that 
a  commnnieation  ini«^ht  bo  found  between  Kegcnt  Inlet 
and  lloe's  Welcome,  or  through  llepul^e  Bay,  and  thenco 
to  the  northwestern  shores.    The  lullowing  arc  his  re- 
marks : — "  On  an  iiiRpection  of  tho  charts  I  think  it 
will  also  appear  probable  that  a  comnmnication  will 
one  day  be  founct  to  exist  between  this  inlet  (Prince 
llecent  s)  and  Hudson's  Pay,  either  through  the  broad 
and  unexplored  channel  called  Sir  Thomas  Iloe's  Wel- 
come, or  through  licpulse  Pay,  which  has  not  yet  been 
Fatisfartorily  examined.    It  is  also  probable  that  a  chan- 
nel will  1)0  found  to  exist  between  the  western  land  and 
the  northern  coast  t»f  America."     Again,  in  another 
place,  he  says  :  — "  Of  the   existence  of  a  northwest 
jiassage  to  the  Pacific  it  is  now  scarcely  possible  U* 
<loubt,  and  from  the  succesf  which  attended  our  efforts 
in  1819,  after  passing  thr.'Ugh  Sir  James  Lancaster's 
Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anticipating  its 
complete  accomplishment.     But  the  season  in  which  it 
is  practicable  to  navigate  the  Polar  Seas  does  n'^t  exceed 
seven  weeks.     From  all  that  we  observed  it  seems  desir- 
able that  ships  endeavoring  to  reach  the  Pacific  Ocean 
by  this  route  should  keep  if  possible  on  the  coast  of 
Amenca,  and  the  lower  m  latitude  that  coast  may  bo 
found,  the  more  favorable  will  it  prove  for  the  purpose ; 
hence  Cuml)erland  Strait,  Sir  Tliomas  Roe's  Welcome, 
and  Repulse  Bay  appear  to  be  the  points  most  worthy 
of  attention.    I  cannot,  therefore,  but  consider  that  any 
expedition  equipped  by  Great  Bntain  with  this  view 


:m' 


102 


ritoni:DsS  of  Ai:cric  DiscuVEKV. 


onfi;lit  to  employ  its  best  cnurgico  in  {itteiivptin<^to  ijene- 
trate  t'roiu  the  eastern  coast  of  America  aloni^  ito  north- 
ern sliorc.  In  conse(|uence  ot*  the  partial  success  wliich 
has  hitherto  attended  our  attempts,  the  wlialers  liavo 
already  extended  their  views,  and  a  new  field  has  been 
opened  for  one  of  the  most  lucrative  branches  ot*  our 
commerce,  and  v.diat  is  scarcely  of  less  importance,  one 
of  the  most  valuidjle  nurseries  for  seamen  which  Great 
}'ritain  possesses."'^' 

Pleased  with  his  former  zeal  and  enterprise,  and  in 
order  to  give  liim  an  opportunity  of  testing  the  trutli 
(>f  his  observations,  a  few  months  after  he  returned  home, 
tlie  Adnifralty  gave  Parry  the  command  of  another  ex- 
pedition, with  instructions  to  j)roceed  to  Hudson's  Strait, 
and  penetrate  to  the  westward,  until  in  Ite[)ulse  Bay, 
or  on  some  other  part  of  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  to 
the  north  of  AVager  River,  lie  should  reach  the  weste 
coast  of  the  continent.  Failing  in  these  quarters,  1; 
was  to  keep  along  the  coast,  carefully  examining  every 
bend  or  inlet,  which  sliould  appear  likely  to  afford  a 
practicable  passage  to  the  westward. 

The  vessels  commissioned,  with  their  officers  and 
crews,  were  the  following.  Several  of  the  officers  of  the 
former  expedition  were  promoted,  and  those  who  had 
been  on  the  last  voyage  with  Parry  I  have  marked  with 
an  asterisk : — 


Grec 
m 

47 


Furlh 


Commander — *W.  E.  Parry. 

Chaplain  and  Astronomer  —  Eev.  Geo.  Fisher,  (was 

in  the  Dorothea,  under  Capt.  Buchan,  in  1818.) 
Lieutenants  — *J.  Nias  and  *A.  Reid. 


Surgeon  — *J.  Edwards. 


Purser  — *W.  H.  Hooper. 
Assistant-Surgeon — J.  Skeoch. 
Midshipmen  — *J.  C.  Ross,  *J.  Bushnan,  J.  Hender- 
son, E.  R.  M.  Crozier. 


"Parry's  First  Voyage,  voL  ii,  p.  240. 


PAURY  S   SKCONl)   VOYAGK. 


103 


li'  '41 


Greenland  Pilots — -J.  Allison,  master ;  G.  Crawfurd, 

mate. 
47  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  60. 

Hecla, 

Commander — G.  F.  Lyon. 
Lieutenants  — *H.  P.  lloppner  and  ^C.  Palmer. 
Surgeon  — -A .  Fisher. 
Purser  —  J.  Germain. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  A.  M'Laren. 
Midsliipmen  — *W.  N.  Griffitlis,  J.  Sherer,  C.  Rich- 
ards, E.  J.  Bird. 
Greenland  Pilots  — "*G.  Fife,  master;  *A.  Elder,  mate. 
46  Petty  Officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  58. 

Lieutenant  Lyon,  the  second  in  command,  had  ob- 
tained some  reputation  from  his  travels  in  Tripoli, 
Mourzouk,  and  other  pares  of  Northern  Africa,  and  was 
raised  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  on  liis  aj^pointment 
to  the  Ilecla,  and  received  his  promotion  as  Captain, 
when  the  expedition  returned. 

The  ships  were  accompanied  as  far  as  the  ice  by 
the  N^atilus  transport,  freighted  with  provisions  and 
stores,  which  were  to  be  transhipped  as  soon  aa  room 
was  found  for  them. 

The  vessels  got  away  from  the  little  Xore  early  on 
the  8th  of  May,  1821,  but  meeting  with  strong  gales 
olf  the  Greenland  coast,  and  a  boisterous  passage,  did 
not  fall  in  with  the  ice  until  the  middle  of  June. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  in  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south- 
ward, the  sea  stove  and  carried  away  one  of  the  quar- 
ter boats  of  tlie  Hecla.  On  the  following  day,  in  lat. 
60°  53'  N.,  long.  61°  39'  W.,  they  made  the  pack  or 
main  body  of  ice,  having  many  large  bergs  in  and 
near  it.  On  the  19th,  Resolution  Island,  at  the  en- 
trance of  Hudson's  Strait,  was  seen  distant  sixty-four 
miles.      Capt.  Lyon  states,  that  during   one  of   the 


\}''  ;. 


t'.  fk 


\   \\ 


Mh 


104 


riiOGKFiJS   OF   AliCriC   DISCON'EKV. 


watches,  a  large  fragment  was  observed  to  fall  from 
ail  iceberg  near  the  llecla,  which  threw  np  the  watei 
to  a  great  height,  sending  forth  at  the  same  time  a 
noise  like  the  report  of  a  great  gun.  From  this  pe- 
riod to  the  1st  of  July,  the  ships  were  occupied  in 
clearing  the  Nautilus  of  her  stores,  pre2>aratoiy  to 
her  return  home,  occasionally  made  fast  to  a  berg,  or 
driven  out  to  sea  by  gales.  On  the  2d,  after  running 
through  heavy  ice,  they  again  made  Ilesolutiou  Island, 
and  shaping  their  course  for  the  Strait,  were  soon  in- 
troduced to  the  company  of  some  unusually  large  ice- 
bergs. The  altitude  of  one  was  258  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  sea ;  its  total  height,  therefore,  allowing 
one-seventh  only  to  be  visible,  must  have  been  aboul 
1806  feet!  This  however,  is  supposing  the  base  uii 
der  water  not  to  spread  beyond  the  mass  above  water 
The  vessels  had  scarcely  drifted  past  this  floating 
mountain,  when  the  eddy  tide  carried  them  with  great 
rapidity  among  a  cluster  of  eleven  bergs  of  huge 
size,  and  having  a  beautiful  diversity  of  form.  The 
largest  of  these  was  210  feet  above  the  water.  The 
floe  ice  was  running  wildly  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour,  sweeping  the  vessels  past  the  bergs,  against 
any  one  of  which,  they  might  have  received  incalcu- 
lable injury.  An  endeavor  was  made  to  make  the 
ships  ftist  to  one  of  them,  (for  all  of  them  were  aground,) 
in  order  to  ride  out  the  tide,  but  it  proved  unsuccess- 
ful, and  the  Fury  had  much  difficulty  in  sending  a 
boat  for  some  men  who  were  on  a  small  berg,  making 
holes  for  her  ice  anchors.  They  were  therefore  swept 
past  and  soon  beset.  Fifty-four  icebergs  were  counted 
from  the  mast-head. 

On  the  3d,  they  made  some  progress  through  very 
heavy  floes  ;  but  on  the  tide  turning,  the  loose  ice  flew 
together  with  such  rapidity  and  noise,  that  there  was 
barely  time  to  secure  the  ships  in  a  natural  dock,  be- 
fore the  two  streams  met,  and  even  then  they  received 
gome  heavy  shocks.  Water  was  procured  for  use 
from  the  pools  in  the  floe  to  which  the  ships  were 
made  fost ;  and  this  being  the  first  time  of  doing  so, 


each 


hf 


PAKRY  ti    SiXOMlJ    VOVAGK. 


105 


aflbrded  great  amusement  to  the  novicci5,  who,  even 
when  it  was  their  period  of  rest,  preferred  pelting 
each  other  with  snow-balls,  to  goin<:j  to  bed.  BuHcfc- 
ing  with  eddies,  strong  currents,  and  dangerous  ])erg3, 
they  were  ke])t  in  a  state  of  anxiety  and  danger,  for 
a  week  or  ten  days.  On  one  occasion,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  being  driven  on  shore,  the  pressure  they  ex- 
]>erienced  was  so  great,  that  five  hawsers,  six  inches 
thick,  were  carried  away,  and  the  be^^t  bower  anchor 
of  the  Ilecla  was  wrenched  from  the  bows,  and  broke 
oft'  at  the  head  of  the  shank,  with  as  mucli  ease  as  if, 
instead  of  weighing  upward  of  a  ton,  it  had  been  of 
crockery  ware.  For  a  week  they  were  embayed  by 
the  ice,  and  during  this  period  they  saw  three  strange 
ships,  also  beset,  under  llesolution  Island,  which  they 
contrived  to  join  on  the  IGth  of  July,  making  fast  to 
a  floe  near  them.  They  proved  to  be  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  traders,  Prince  of  Wales,  and  Eddystone, 
with  the  Lord  Wellington,  chartered  to  convey  IGO 
natives  of  Holland,  who  were  proceeding  to  settle  on 
Lord  Selkirk's  estate,  at  the  lied  Iliver.  "  While 
Hearing  these  vessels,  (says  Lyon,)  we  observed  the 
settlers  waltzing  on  deck,  for  above  two  hours,  the 
men  in  old-fashioned  gray  jackets,  and  the  women 
wearing  long-eared  mob  caps,  like  those  used  by  the. 
Swiss  peasants.  As  we  were  surrounded  by  ice,  and 
the  thermometer  was  at  the  freezing  point,  it  may  be 
supposed  that  this  ball,  al  vero  fresco^  aftbrded  us 
much  amusement."  The  Hudson's  Bay  ships  had 
left  England  twenty  days  after  the  expedition. 

The  emigrant  ship  had  been  hampered  nineteen 
da^^s  among  the  ice  before  she  joined  the  others ; 
and  as  this  navigation  was  new  to  her  captain  and  crew, 
they  almost  despaired  of  ever  getting  to  their  jour- 
ney's end,  so  varied  and  constant  had  been  their  im- 
pediments. The  Dutchmen  had,  however,  behaved 
very  philosophically  during  this  period,  and  seemed 
determined  on  being  merry,  in  spite  of  the  weather 
and  the  dangers.  Several  marriages  had  taken  place, 
the  surgeon,  who  was  accompanying  thcni  to  the  col- 


IOC 


I'KOGUKSS   OF    ARCTIC  J    DISCOVKKV. 


fiS. 


ony,  officiating  as  clerg3'man,)  and  many  more  wcro 
in  agitation  ;  each  happy  couple  always  (leferring  the 
ceremony  until  a  fine  day  allowed  of  an  evening  ball, 
which  was  only  terminated  by  a  fresh  breeze,  or  a  fall 
of  snow.*  On  the  17th,  the  ships  were  se])arated  by 
the  ice,  and  they  saw  no  more  of  their  visitors.  On 
the  21st,  they  were  only  otf  the  Lower  Savage  Islands. 
In  the  evening  they  saw  a  very  large  bear  lying  on  a 
piece  of  ice,  and  two  boats  were  instantly  sent  oif  in 
chase.  They  approached  very  close  before  he  took 
to  the  water,  when  he  swam  rapidly,  and  made  long 
springs,  turning  boldly  to  face  his  pursuers.  It  was 
with  difficulty  he  was  ca])tured.  As  these  animals, 
although  very  fat  and  bulky,  sink  the  instant  they  die, 
he  was  lashed  to  a  boat,  and  brought  alongside  the 
ship.  On  hoisting  him  in,  they  were  astonished  to 
find  that  his  weight  exceeded  sixteen  hundred  pounds, 
being  one  of  the  largest  ever  killed.  Two  instances, 
only,  of  larger  bears  being  shot  are  recorded,  and 
these  were  by  Barentz's  crew,  in  his  third  voyage,  at 
Cherie  Island,  to  w^hich  they  gave  the  name  of  Bear 
Island.  The  two  bears  killed  then,  measured  twelve 
and  thirteen  feet,  while  this  one  only  measured  eight 
feet  eight  inches,  from  the  snout  to  the  insertion  of  the 
tail.  The  seamen  ate  the  flesh  without  experiencing 
any  of  those  baneful  effects  which  old  navigators  at- 
tribute to  it,  and  which  are  stated  to  have  made  three 
of  Barentz's  people  "so  sick  that  we  expected  they 
would  have  died,  and  their  skins  peeled  off  from 
head  to  foot."  Bruin  was  very  fat,  and  having  pro- 
cured a  tub  of  blubber  from  the  carcass,  it  was  thrown 
over  board,  and  the  smell  soon  attracted  a  couple 
of  walruses,  the  first  that  had  been  yet  seen. 

They  here  fell  in  with  a  numerous  body  of  the  Es 
quimaux,  who  visited  them  from  the  shore.  '  In  less 
than  an  hour  the  ships  were  beset  with  thirty  "  ka- 
yaks," or  men's  canoes,  and  five  of  the  women's  large 
boats,  or  "  oomiaks."  Some  of  the  latter  held  up- 
ward of  twenty  women.  A  most  noisy  but  merry 
barter  instantly  took  place,  the  crew  being  as  anxious 

*  Lvou',  Private.4**"'iial.  p  H. 


ing, 


;  I 


PARKY  S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


107 


to  piircliase  Esquimaux  curiosities,  as  tlio  natives  were 
to  procure  iron  and  European  toys. 

"  It  is  quite  out  of  my  power,  (observes  Captain 
Lyon,)  to  describe  the  shouts,  yells,  and  laughter  of 
the  savages,  or  the  confusion  which  existed  for  two  or 
three  hours.  Tiie  females  were  at  first  very  shy,  and 
unwilling  to  come  on  the  ice,  but  bartered  every  thing 
from  their  boats.  This  timidity,  however,  soon  wore 
oil',  and  they,  in  the  end,  became  as  noisy  and  bois- 
terous as  the  men."  "  It  is  scarcely  possible,  (he  adds) 
to  conceive  any  thing  more  ugly  or  disgusting  than 
the  countenances  of  tlie  old  women,  who  had  inHamed 
eyes,  wrinkled  skin,  black  teeth,  and,  in  fact,  such  a 
forbidding  set  of  features  as  scarcely  could  be  called 
human  ;  to  which  might  be  added  their  dress,  which 
was  such  as  gave  them  the  appearance  of  aged  ourang- 
outangs.  Frobisher's  crew  may  be  pardoned  for  hav- 
ing, in  such  superstitious  times  as  a.  d.  1576,  taken 
one  of  these  ladies  for  a  witch,  of  whom  it  is  said, 
'  The  old  wretch  whom  our  sailors  supposed  to  be  a 
witch,  had  her  buskins  pulled  off,  to  see  if  she  was 
cloven-footed ;  and  being  very  ugly  and  deformed,  we 
let  her  go.' " 

In  bartering  they  have  a  lingular  custom  of  ratify- 
ing the  bargain,  by  licking  the  article  all  over  before 
it  is  put  away  in  security.  Captain  Lyon  says  he  fre- 
quently shuddered  at  seeing  the  children  draw  a  razor 
over  their  tongue,  as  unconcernedly  as  if  it  had  been 
an  ivory  paper-knife.  I  cannot  forbear  quoting  here 
some  humorous  passages  from  his  journal,  which  stand 
out  in  relief  to  the  scientific  and  nautical  parts  of  the 
narrative. 

"  The  strangers  were  so  well  pleased  in  our  society, 
that  they  showed  no  wish  to  leave  us,  and  when  the 
market  had  quite  ceased,  they  began  dancing  and 
playing  with  our  people,  on  the  ice  alongside.  This 
exercise  set  many  of  their  noses  bleeding,  and  discov- 
ered to  us  a  most  nasty  custom,  which  accounted  for 
their  gory  faces,  and  which  was,  that  as  fast  as  the 
blood  ran   down,  theT||Bcraped  it  with  the   fingers 


)j||^CT 


|« 


%w 


i  :i 


1*1 


■'■  vi  i-' 


108 


I'liOGltESS    OF    .UCCTIC   DlBCuVKliY. 


into  their  mouths,  appearing  to  consider  it  as  a  re- 
freshment, or  dainty,  if  we  might  judge  by  the  zest 

with  which  they  smacked  their  lips  at  each  supply." 
*  *  *  -X-  *  *  *  * 

"  In  order  to  amuse  our  new  acquaintances  as  much 
as  possible,  the  fiddler  was  sent  on  the  ice,  where  he 
instantly  found  a  most  delightful  set  of  dancers,  of 
whom  some  of  the  women  kept  pretty  good  time. 
Their  only  figure  consisted  in  stamping  and  jumping 
with  all  their  might.  Our  musician,  who  was  a  lively 
fellow,  soqn  caught  the  infection,  and  began  cutting 
capers  also.  In  a  short  time  every  one  on  the  floe, 
ofKcers,  men,  and  savages,  were  dancing  together,  and 
exhibited  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  sights  I  ever 
witnessed.  One  of  our  seamen,  of  a  fresh,  ruddy 
complexion,  excited  the  admiration  of  all  the  young 
females,  who  patted  his  face,  and  danced  around  him 
wherever  he  went. 

"  The  exertion  of  dancing  so  exhilarated  the  Esqui- 
maux, that  they  had  the  appearance  of  being  boister- 
ously drunk,  and  played  many  extraordinary  pranks. 
Among  others,  it  was  a  favorite  joke  to  run  slily  be- 
hind the  seamen,  and  shouting  loudly  in  one  ear,  to 
give  them  at  the  same  time  a  very  smart  slap  on  the 
other.  While  looking  on,  I  was  sharply  saluted  in  this 
manner,  and,  of  course,  was  quite  startled,  to  the 
great  amusement  of  the  bystanders :  our  cook,  who 
was  a  most  active  and  unwearied  jumper,  became  so 
great  a  favorite,  that  every  one  boxed  his  ears  so 
soundly,  as  to  oblige  the  poor  man  to  retire  from  such 
boisterous  marks  of  approbation.  Among  other 
sports,  some  of  the  Esquimaux  rather  roughly,  but 
with  great  good  humor,  challenged  our  people  to 
wrestle.  One  man,  in  particular,  who  had  thrown  sev- 
eral of  his  countrymen,  attacked  an  officer  of  a  very 
strong  make,  but  the  poor  savage  was  instantly  thrown, 
and  with  no  very  easy  fall ;  yet,  although  every  one 
was  laughing  at  him,  he  bore  it  with  exemplary  good 
liumor.  The  same  officer  afforded  us  much  diversion 
by  teaching  a  large  party  of  jjj^en  to  bow,  courtesy, 


I'AliKV  S   t^ECOMU    VoVAGlJ. 


hti) 


sliiiko  hands,  turn  their  toes  out,  and  perform  sun- 
(hy  otlier  polite  acconiplishnients  ;  tlie  whole  party 
master  and  pupils,  })rer^ervini^  the  strictest  gravity. 

''Toward  midnight  all  our  men,  except  the  watch  on 
deck,  turned  in  to  their  beds,  and  the  fatigued  and 
hungry  Es(|uiniaux  returned  to  their  boats  to  take  tlieir 
supper,  which  consisted  of  lumps  of  raw  liesh  and  blub- 
ber of  seals,  birds,  entrails,  itc. ;  licking  their  fingers 
with  great  zest,  and  with  knives  or  lingers  scraping  the 
blood  and  grease  which  ran  down  their  chins  into  their 
mouths." 

Many  other  parties  of  the  natives  were  fallen  in  with 
during  the  slow  progress  of  the  ships,  between  Salisbury 
and  .Nottingham  Ishmds,  who  were  C(|ually  as  eager  to 
beg,  barter,  or  thieve  ;  and  the  mouth  was  the  general 
repository  of  most  of  the  treasures  they  received  ;  nee- 
dles, pins,  nails,  buttons,  beads,  and  other  small  etcete- 
ras, being  indiscriminately  stowed  there,  but  detracting 
in  nowise  from  their  volubility  of  speech.  On  the  loth 
of  August  the  weather  being  calm  and  fine,  norwhals  or 
sea-miicorns,  were  very  numerous  about  the  ships,  and 
boats  were  sent,  but  without  success,  to  strike  one. 
There  were  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty  of  these 
beautiful  fish  in  a  shoal,  lifting  at  times  their  immense 
horn  above  the  water,  and  at  others  showing  their 
glossy  l)acks,  wdiich  were  spotted  in  the  manner  of 
coach  dogs  in  England.  The  length  of  these  fish  is 
about  fifteen  feet,  exclusive  of  the  horn,  which  averages 
five  or  six  more. 

Captain  Parry  landed  and  sle])t  on  Southampton  Isl- 
and. His  boat's  crew  caught  in  holes  on  the  beach 
sufficient  sillocks,  or  young  coal-fish,  to  serve  for  two 
meals  for  the  whole  ship's  company.  During  the  night 
white  whales  were  seen  Iving  in  hundreds  close  to  the 
rocks,  probably  feeding  on  the  sillocks.  Alter  carefully 
examining  Duke  of  York  Bay,  the  ships  got  into  the 
Frozen  Strait  of  Middleton  on  the  morning  of  the  20th, 
and  an  anxious  day  was  closed  by  passing  an  opening 
to  the  southward,  which  was  found  to  be  Sir  Thomas 
Roe's  Welcome,  and  heaving  to  for  the  night  off  a  bay 


p.  j 


;J 


i  I 


t 


no 


PR<)<il£i:SK    (IF    AK(J'1IC    DISC'oVKliY. 


to  tlio  noi'tliwcst.  Tlio  bliips  got  woll  in  to  Rcpulso 
J  Jay  on  the  22(1,  and  u,  ciiret'ul  examination  of  its  bliores 
^vaH  made  by  tlie  boats. 

Ca])tain8  l*arry  and  Lyon,  with  several  officers  from 
eacli  ship,  landed  and  exj^lored  the  nortliern  shoren, 
"vvliile  a  boat  examined  the  head  of  the  bay.  The  wa- 
terH  of  a  long  cove  are  described  by  Cajitain  Lyon  aa 
being  absolutely  hidden  by  tlio  quantities  of  young 
eider-ducks,  whieh,  under  the  direction  of  their  moth- 
ers, were  making  tiieir  lirst  essays  in  swimming. 

Captain  Lyon  with  a  boat's  crew  made  a  trip  of  a 
couple  ot"  days  along  some  of  the  indents  of  the  bay, 
and  discovered  an  inlet,  which,  however,  on  being  en- 
tered subseqnently  by  the  ships,  proved  only  to  be  the 
dividing  channel  between  an  island  and  tlic  main-land, 
about  six  miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth.  Proceed- 
ing to  the  northward  by  Ilurd's  channel,  they  expe- 
rienced a  long  rolling  ground  swell  setting  against  them. 
On  the  28th,  ascending  a  steep  mountam,  Captain 
Lyon  discovered  a  noble  bay,  subsequently  named  Gor ) 
Bay,  in  which  lay  a  few  islands,  and  toward  this  thof 
directed  their  course. 

Captain  Parry,  who  had  been  two  days  absent  wit 'i 
boats  exploring  the  channel  and  shores  of  the  strait,  r^^- 
turned  on  the  29th,  but  set  off  again  on  the  same  day 
with  six  boats  to  sound  and  examine  more  minutel*". 
When  Parry  returned  at  ni^ht,  Mr.  Griffiths,  of  tl  e 
If  eel  a,  brought  on  board  a  large  doe,  which  he  had 
killed  while  swimming  (among  large  masses  of  ice)  fro.  a 
isle  to  isle  ;  two  others  and  a  fawn  were  procured  c  n 
shore  by  the  Fury's  people.  The  game  laws,  as  thv/y 
w^ere  laid  down  on  the  former  voyage  while  winteri\  3 
at  Melville  Island,  were  once  more  put  in  force.  Thety 
"  enacted  that  for  the  purpose  of  economizing  the  shi(rs 
provisions,  all  deer  or  musk-oxen  killed  should  bo 
served  out  in  lieu  of  the  usual  allowance  of  meat. 
Hares,  ducks,  and  other  birds  were  not  at  this  time  to 
be  included.  As  an  encouragement  to  sportsmen,  the 
head,  lege,  and  oftal  of  the  larger  animals  were  to  bo 
tlio  ])erquisites  of  those  who  procured  the  carcasses  for 


4 


f 


I'AIiliV  si   Si:o>M»    VoVAtil.. 


iii 


the  ircnoral  m»ijd."'  "In  the  iiniiiialri  of  tlils  cUiv  (wb- 
rerve.s  Lvoiij  we  were  coiiviiiced  thiit  our  sportsmen 
had  n^t  t'orujotteu  the  hititude  to  whieh  their  pen|uisitt'S 
luiu'lit  le-i'allv  extend,  lor  tlie  iieck^  wore  made  so  hm;' 
as  to  encroach  considei'iiblj  on  the  vertebrie  of  tlie 
liack;  a  manner  of  anipiitutiug  the  heads  winch  liad 
been  learned  during  the  former  voyage,  and,  no  doubl, 
would  be  strictly  acted  up  to  in  the  present  one/' 

AVhile  the  ships  on  the  30th  were  proceeding  through 
this  strait,  having  to  contend  with  heavy  wind  and 
wild  ice,  which  with  an  impetuous  tide  ran  against  tho 
rocks  with  loud  crashes,  at  the  rate  of  live  knots  in  tho 
center  stream;  four  boats  towing  astern  were  torn 
away  Ijy  the  ice,  and,  with  the  men  in  them,  were  for 
some  time  in  great  danger.  The  vessels  anchored  for 
the  night  in  a  small  nook,  and  weighing  at  daylight 
<iii  the  olst,  they  stood  to  the  eastward,  but  Gore  Bay 
v/jis  found  closely  packed  with  ice,  and  most  of  the  in- 
lets they  passed  were  also  Beset. 

A  ])revalence  of  fog,  northerly  wind,  and  heavy  ico 
in  Hoes  of  some  miles  in  circumference,  now  carried 
i!ie  ships,  in  spite  of  constant  labor  and  exertions,  in 
thive  days,  back  to  tho  very  spot  in  Fox's  Channel, 
Avhere  a  month  ago  they  had  commenced  their  o])era- 
tions.  It  was  not  till  the  5th  of  September,  that  they 
could  again  get  forward,  and  then  by  one  of  the  usual 
clianges  in  the  navigation  of  these  seas,  the  ships  ran 
well  to  the  northeast  imimpeded,  at  the  rate  of  six 
knots  an  hour,  anchoring  for  the  night  at  the  mouth  of 
a  large  opening,  which  was  named  Lyon  Inlet.  The 
in'xt  (lay  they  proceeded  about  twenty-five  miles  up 
til  is  inlet,  which  appeared  to  be  about  eight  miles  broad. 
Captain  Parry  pushed  on  with  two  boats  to  examine 
the  head  of  the  inlet,  taking  provisions  for  a  week, 
lie  returned  on  the  14th,  having  failed  in  finding  any 
outlet  to  the  place  he  had  been  examining,  which  was 
yvvy  extensive,  full  of  fiords  and  rapid  overfalls  of  the 
tide.  lie  had  procured  a  sufficiency  of  game  to  afford 
liis  people  a  hot  supper  every  evening,  which,  aftei'the 
constant  labor  of  the  day,  was  highly  acceptable.    He 


5* 


ii 


i''a 


\i'^: 


11 


o 


rnoOKKFS  (W  AKnir    J»IS((;Vi:UV. 


fell  in  nlfio  with  a  fiiiiall  purtv  of  n»ativon  \^  ho  disphiycd 
thu  usual  thioving  ])ropeMsitu's. 

Animal  food  of  all  kindrt  vciih  found  to  ho  very  i)k'n- 
tiful  in  this  locality.  A  tine  salmon  trout  was  I)r<)Ught 
down  by  one  of  the  olHecrs  from  a  lake  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  crew  of  thellecla  killed  in  a  fortnight  four 
deer,  forty  hares,  eighty -two  ptarmigan,  lifty  duck.s, 
three  divers,  three  foxes,  three  ravens,  four  seals,  er- 
inine.>«,  marmottes,  mice,  i^c.  Two  of  the  seals  kilKd 
M'ere  immense  animals  of  tlie  hearded  species  {/'/toed 
h<i/'lafa^  yavy  fat,  weighing  al)0ut  eight  or  nine  cwt.; 
the  others  were  the  connnon  fi])Gcies,  {I*,  vitulina.) 

Captain  Parry  again  left  in  boats,  on  the  15th,  to  ex- 
amine more  carefully  the  land  that  had  been  paiiised  so 
ra])idly  on  the  5th  and  Cth.  Not  Imding  Inm  return 
on  the  24th,  Captain  Lyon  ran  down  "the  coast  to  meet 
liim,  and  by  burning  blue  lights,  fell  in  with  him  at 
ten  that  night.  It  appeared  he  had  been  frozen  up 
for  two  days  on  the  second  evening  after  leaving. 
When  he  got  clear  he  ran  down  to,  and  sailed  round. 
Gore  Bay,  at  that  time  perfectly  clear  of  ice,  but  by 
the  next  morning  it  was  quite  lilled  with  heavy  pieces, 
which  much  impeded  his  return.  Once  more  he  was 
frozen  up  in  a  small  bay,  where  he  was  detained  three 
days  ;  when,  finding  there  was  no  chance  of  getting 
out,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid  formation  of  young 
ice,  by  ten  hours'  severe  labor,  the  boats  were  carried 
over  a  low  point  of  land,  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and 
once  more  launched. 

On  the  6th  of  October,  the  impediments  of  ice  con- 
tinuing to  increase,  being  met  with  in  all  its  formations 
of  sludges  or  young  ice,  pancake  ice  and  bay  ice,  a 
small  open  bay  within  a  cape  of  land,  forming  the 
southeast  extremity  of  an  island  off  Lyon  Inlet,  was 
sounded,  and  being  found  to  be  safe  anchorage  the  ships 
were  brought  in,  and,  from  the  indications  which  were 
Betting  in,  it  was  finally  determined  to  secure  them  there 
for  the  winter ;  by  means  of  a  canal  half  a  mile  long, 
which  was  cut,  they  were  taken  further  into  the  bay. 
The  island  was  named  Winter  Isle. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  occupation  an^' 


rAliliv's   BIXOND   VoYAOK. 


113 


I  li 


ttmiiRcmcnt,  bo  as  to  pass  away  pleasantly  tlio  period 
of  detention.  A  good  stoek  of  tlieatrical  dresses  and 
i»roj)ertie9  liaving  been  laid  in  by  the  ofHeers  before 
leaving  England,  arrangements  were  made  for  perform- 
ing plays  fortnightly,  as  on  their  last  winter  residence, 
as  a  means  of  amusing  the  seamen,  and  in  some  degree 
to  break  the  tedious  monotony  of  their  confinement.  As 
tliere  could  bo  no  desire  or  hope  of  excelling,  every 
officer's  name  was  readily  entered  on  the  list  of  ilra^ 
mdtis  pcrsonw^  Captain  Lyon  kindly  undertaking  the 
difficult  ofiice  of  manager.  Those  ladies  (says  Lyon^ 
who  had  cherished  the  growth  of  their  beards  ana 
whiskers,  as  a  defense  against  the  inclemency  of  tho 
climate,  now  generously  agreed  to  do  away  with  such 
unfeminine  ornaments,  and  every  thing  bade  fair  for  a 
most  stylish  theater. 

As  a  curiosity,  I  may  hero  put  on  record  the  play 
bill  for  the  evening.    I  nave  added  tho  ship  to  which 
each  officer  belonged. 

THEATER  ROYAL, 

WINTER  ISLE. 


The  Public  aro  respectfully  informed  that  this  little,    »' 
yet  elegant  Theater,  will  open  for  the  season  on  Fri- 
day next,  the  9th  of  November,  1821,  when  will  be 
performed  Sheridan's  celebrated  Comedy  of 

THE  RIVALS. 

Sir  Anthony  Absolute    Captain  Parry,  {Fury) 
Ca^g^bin  Absolute    -    -  Captain  Lyon,  {JTeola.) 
Slrmt^ius  O^ Trigger y    Mr.  Crozier,  {Fury) 
FaitafUmd,  -    -    -    -    Mr.  J.  Edwards,  (Fury.) 

Acrei^ Mr.  J.  Henderson,  (Fury.) 

Fayy     ------    Lieut.  Hoppner,  (Ilecla.) 

David,  .-.---  Lieut.  Reid,  (Fury.) 
Mrs.  Malaprop,     -    -    Mr.  C.  Richards,  (Ilecla.) 

-  Mr.  W.  H.  Hooper,  (Fury.) 
-    Mr.  J.  Sherer,  (Ilecla.) 

-  Mr.  W.  Mogg,  (crk  of  Ilecla.) 


Julia, 

Lydia  Languish, 

Lucy,     -    .    -    - 


Hi 


I'KuUKKft^    ul'    AUtTlC    Dl^CUVEUV. 


Solids  l)y  ^resrti'H.  (y.  Palmer,  (llccla,)  and  J.  Ilcii- 
dcr.sun,  will  bo  intruducud  in  tho  courtio  of  the  eve- 
ning. 

On  the  17th  of  December,  a  Blilvcring  set  of  actors 
jjerformed  to  a  great-coated,  yet  very  cold  audience, 
the  comedy  of  the  'Toor  (ientleman."  A  burst  of 
true  English  feeling  was  exhibited  during  the  perform- 
ance of  this  ])lay.  In  tho  scene  whoro  jJeut.  Worth- 
infjto)i  and  Corporal  J^o.sff  recount  in  so  animated  a 
nuinner.  their  former  achievements,  advancing  at  tho 
same  time,  and  huzzaing  for  "  Old  Knghind,"  tho 
whole  audience,  with  one  accord,  rose  and  gave  three 
most  hearty  cheers.  They  then  sat  down,  and  tho 
play  continued  uninterrupted. 

On  Christmas  Eve,  in  order  to  keep  tho  peoi)lo 
quiet  and  sober,  two  farces  were  performed,  and  tho 
phantasmagoria,  (which  had  been  kindly  presented 
anonymously  to  the  ships  before  leaving,  by  a  lady,) 
exhibited,  so  that  the  night  passed  merrily  away. 

The  coldness  of  the  weather  proved  no  bar  to  tho 
performance  of  a  play  at  tho  appointed  time.  If  it 
uniused  the  seamen,  the  purpose  was  answered,  but  it 
was  a  cruel  task  to  performers.  "  In  our  green-room, 
(says  Lyon,)  which  was  as  mucli  warmed  as  any  other 
part  of  the  Theater,  the  thermometer  stood  at  10°,  and 
on  a  table  which  was  placed  over  a  stove,  and  about 
six  inches  above  it,  tho  coffee  froze  in  the  cups.  For 
my  sins,  I  was  obliged  to  be  dressed  in  the  height  of 
the  fashion,  as  Dick  Dowlas,  in  the  "  Heir  at  Law," 
and  went  through  the  last  scene  of  the  play  with 
two  of  my  fingers  frost-bitten  1  Let  those  who  havo 
witnessed  and  admired  the  performances  of  a  Young, 
answer  if  he  could  possibly  ha/e  stood  so  cold  a  recep- 
tion." 

Captain  Parry  also  states  in  his  Journal,  "  Among 
the  recreations  which  afibrded  the  highest  gratifica- 
tion to  several  among  us,  I  may  mention  the  musical 
])arties  we  were  enabled  to  muster,  and  which  assem- 
bled on  stated  evenings  throughout  the  winter,  alter 


L.'i^kA^'lakl^iL.^^'  i. 


i 


#  w 


More  si 
at  thesi 
them  tc 
assured 
the  glo 
pleasur 
of  aftbr 
tion  afl 
Bcarcelj 
whose  I 
with  '  XI 
rememl 
those  as 
we  are 
still  oc( 
our  frie: 
twecn  u 
mere  ar 
an  appli 
to  open 
ceded  t 
could  w 
disuse,  i 

Mr.  E 
the  Fur}? 
educatec 
in  the  1 
in  the  ii 
progress 
Lyon  sti 
who,  tw< 
These  li 
with  as 
little  sch 

An  ol 
on  magr 
tions.  I 
were  cai 
the  25tl 


•) 


rAKliV  H    tJECOKD    VOYAGE. 


115 


n  \tel/  1^1  Ccix^mander  Lyon's  cabin,  and  in  my  own. 
More  skillful  amateurs  in  music  might  well  have  smiled 
at  these,  our  humble  concerts,  but  it  will  not  incline 
them  to  think  less  of  the  science  they  admire,  to  be 
assured  that,  in  these  remote  and  desolate  regions  of 
the  globe,  it  has  often  furnished  us  with  the  most 
pleasurable  sensations  which  our  situation  was  capable 
of  aftbrding ;  for,  independently  of  the  mere  gratifica- 
tion aftbrded  to  the  ear  by  music,  there  is,  perhaps, 
scarcely  a  person  in  the  world  really  fond  of  it,  in 
whose  mind  its  sound  is  not  more  or  less  connected 
with  *  his  far  distant  home.'  There  are  always  some 
remembrances  which  render  them  inseparable,  and 
those  associations  are  not  to  be  despised,  which,  while 
we  are  engaged  in  the  performance  of  our  duty,  can 
still  occasionally  transport  us  into  the  social  circle  of 
our  friends  at  home,  in  spite  of  the  oceans  that  roll  be- 
tween us."  But  their  attention  was  not  confined  to 
mere  amusements.  Much  to  the  credit  of  the  seamen, 
an  application  was  made  in  each  ship  for  permission 
to  open  an  evening  school,  which  was  willingly  ac- 
ceded to.  Almost  every  man  could  read,  and  some 
could  write  a  little,  but  several  found  that,  from  long 
disuse,  it  was  requisite  to  begin  again. 

Mr.  Halse  volunteered  to  superintend  the  classes  in 
the  Fury;  while  Benjamin  White,aseaman,  whohad  been 
educated  at  Christ's  Hospital,  officiated  as  schoolmaster 
in  the  Hecla,  and  those  best  qualified  to  assist  aided 
in  the  instruction  of  their  shipmates,  who  made  rapid 
progress  under  their  tuition.  On  Christmas  Day,  Capt. 
Lyon  states  that  he  received  sixteen  copies  from  men> 
who,  two  months  before,  scarcely  knew  their  letters. 
These  little  specimens  were  all  well  written,  and  sent 
with  as  much  pride  as  if  the  writers  had  been  good 
little  schoolboys,  instead  of  stout  and  excellent  seamen. 

An  observatory  was  erected  on  shore,  for  carrying 
on  magnetical,  astronomical,  and  other  scientific  opera- 
tions. Foxes  were  very  plentiful  about  the  ships ;  fifteen 
were  caught  in  one  trap  in  four  hours  on  the  night  of 
the  25th  of  October,  and  above  one  hundred  were 


■*    i 


;'  '11 


ml0 


ii 


110 


i»rogij:ss  of  akctic  discovery, 


cither  trapped  or  killed  in  the  course  of  three  montlis, 
and  yet  there  seemed  but  little  diminution  in  their 
numbers.  Captain  Lyon  says  he  found  them  not  bad 
eating,  the  flesh  much  resembling  that  of  kid.  A  pack 
of  thirteen  wolves  came  occasionally  to  have  a  look  at 
the  ships,  and  on  one  occasion  broke  into  a  snow-house 
alongside,  and  walked  off  with  a  couple  of  Esquimaux 
dogs  confined  there.  Bears  now  and  then  also  made 
their  apj^earance. 

A  very  beautiful  eraiine  walked  on  board  the  Ilecla 
one  day,  and  was  caught  in  a  small  trap  placed  on  the 
deck,  certainly  the  first  of  these  animals  which  was 
ever  taken  alive  on  board  a  ship  400  yards  from  the 
land.  The  ravenous  propensities  of  even  some  of  tlio 
smallest  members  of  the  animal  kingdom  are  exempli- 
fied by  the  following  extract :  — 

"  We  had  for  some  time  observed  that  in  the  fire- 
hole,  which  was  kept  open  in  the  ice  alongside,  a  count- 
less multitude  of  small  shrimps  were  constantly  rising 
near  the  surface,  and  we  soon  found  that  in  twenty-four 
hours  they  would  clean,  in  the  most  beautifiil  manner, 
the  skeletons." 

After  attending  divine  service  on  Christmas  day,  the 
officers  and  crews  sat  down  to  the  luxury  of  joints  of 
English  roast  beef,  which  had  been  kept  untainted  by 
being  frozen,  and  the  outside  rubbed  with  salt.  Cran- 
berry pics  and  puddings,  of  every  shape  and  size,  with 
a  full  allowance  of  spirits,  followed,  and,  probably  the 
natural  attendance  of  headaches  succeeded,  for  the 
next  morning  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  send  all  the 
people  for  a  rnu  on  the  ice,  in  order  to  put  them  to 
riglitrt  ;  but  thick  weather  coming  on,  it  became  neces- 
yaiy  to  recall  them,  and,  postponing  the  dinner  hour, 
they  were  all  danced  sober  by  one  o'clock,  the  fiddler 
being,  fortunately,  quite  as  he  should  be.  During  this 
curious  ball,  a  witty  fellow  attended  as  an  old  cake 
woman,  with  lumps  of  frozen  snow  in  a  bucket ;  and 
such  was  the  demand  for  his  pies  on  this  occasion,  that 
he  was  obliged  to  replenish  pretty  frequently.  The 
year  had  now  drawn  to  a  close,  and  all  enjoyed  excel- 


parry's  second  voyage. 


117 


lent  health,  and  were  blessed  with  good  spirits,  and  zeal 
for  the  renewal  of  their  arduous  exertions  in  the  sum- 
mer. 

No  signs  of  scurvy,  the  usual  plague  of  such  voy- 
ages, had  occurred,  and  by  the  plans  of  Captain  Parry, 
as  carried  out  on  the  former  voyage,  a  sufficiency  of 
mustard  and  cress  was  raised  between  decks  to  afibrd 
all  hands  a  salad  once,  and  sometimes  twice  a  week. 
The  cold  now  became  intense.  Wine  froze  in  the  bot- 
tles. Port  was  congealed  into  thin  pink  lamina;,  which 
lay  loosely,  and  occupied  the  whole  length  of  the  bot- 
tle. White  wine,  on  the  contrary,  froze  into  a  solid 
and  perfectly  transparent  mass,  resembling  amber. 

On  the  1st  of  February  the  monotony  of  their  life 
was  varied  by  the  arrival  of  a  largo  party  of  Esqui- 
maux, and  an  interchange  of  visits  thenceforward  took 
place  with  this  tribe,  which,  singularly  enough,  were 
proverbial  for  their  honesty.  Ultimately,  however, 
they  began  to  display  some  thievish  propensities,  for 
on  one  evening  in  March  a  most  shocking  theft  was 
committed,  which  was  no  less  than  the  last  piece  of 
English  corned  beef  from  the  midshipmen's  mess. 
Had  it  been  an  181b.  carronade,  or  even  one  of  the  an- 
chors, the  thieves  would  have  been  welcome  to  it ;  but 
to  purloin  English  beef  in  such  a  country  was  unpar- 
donable. 

On  the  15th  of  March  Caj^tain  Lyon,  Lieutenant 
Palmer,  and  a  party  of  men,  left  the  ship,  with  pro- 
visions, tents,  &c.,  in  a  large  sledge,  for  an  excursion 
of  three  or  four  days,  to  examine  the  land  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  ships. 

The  first  night's  encampment  was  anything  l)ut  com- 
fortable. Their  tent  they  found  so  cold,  that  it  was 
determined  to  make  a  cavern  in  the  snow  to  sleep  in  ; 
and  digging  this  aftbrded  so  good  an  opportunity  of 
warming  themselves,  that  the  only  shovel  was  lent  from 
one  to  the  other  as  a  particular  favor.  After  digging 
it  of  sufficient  size  to  contain  them  all  in  a  sitting  ]5os- 
ture,  by  means  of  the  smoke  of  a  fire  they  managed  to 
raise  the  temperature  to  20°,  and,  closing  the  entranco 


■ 

f1 

if 

'  ;i  ■'' 

jUit 

li 

1 

Ir. 

iji:: 

1 

f  li 

m 


118 


PKOORESK    OF   AKCTIC    DWCOVliKY. 


with  blocks  of  snow,  crept  into  their  blanket  bags  and 
tried  to  sleep,  with  the  pleasant  reflection  that  their 
roof  might  fall  in  and  bury  them  all,  and  that  their  ono 
spade  was  the  only  means  of  liberation  after  a  night's 
di-ift  of  snow. 

They  woke  next  morning  to  encounter  a  heavy  galo 
and  drift,  and  found  their  sledge  so  embedded  in  the 
snow  that  they  could  not  get  at  it,  and  in  the  attemi)t 
their  faces  and  extremities  were  most  painfully  frost- 
bitten. The  thermometer  was  at  32°  below  zero  ;  they 
could  not*,  moreover,  see  a  yard  of  the  road  ;  yet  to  re- 
main appeared  worse  than  to  go  forward  —  the  last 
plan  was,  therefore,  decided  on.  The  tent,  sledge,  and 
luggage  were  left;  behind,  and  with  only  a  few  pounds 
of  bread,  a  little  rum,  and  a  spade,  the  party  again  set 
out ;  and  in  order  to  depict  their  sufterings,  I  must  take 
up  the  narrative  as  related  by  the  commander  himself : 

"Not  knowing  where  to  go,  we  wandered  among 
the  heavy  hummocks  of  ice,  and  sufiering  from  cold, 
fatigue  and  anxiety,  were  soon  completely  bewildered. 
Several  of  our  party  now  began  to  exhibit  symptoms 
of  that  horrid  kind  of  insensibility  which  is  the  pre- 
lude to  sleep.  They  all  professed  extreme  willingness 
to  do  what  they  were  told  in  order  to  keep  in  exercise, 
but  none  obeyed  ;  on  the  contrary,  they  reeled  about 
like  drunken  men.  The  faces  of  several  were  severely 
frost-bitten,  and  some  had  for  a  considerable  time  lost 
sensation  in  their  fingers  and  toes  ;  yet  they  made  not 
the  slightest  exertion  to  rub  the  paints  afiected,  and  even 
discontinued  their  general  custom  of  warming  each 
other  on  observing  a  discoloration  of  the  skin.  Mr. 
Pahner  employed  the  people  in  building  a  snow  wall, 
ostensibly  as  a  shelter  from  the  wind,  but  in  fact  to 
give  them  exercise,  when  standing  still  must  have 
proved  fatal  to  men  in  our  circumstances.  My  atten- 
tion was  exclusively  directed  to  Sergeant  Speckman, 
who,  having  been  repeatedly  warned  that  his  nose  was 
frozen,  had  paid  no  attention  to  it,  owing  to  the  state 
of  stupefaction  into  which  he  had  fallen.  The  frost- 
bite had  now  extended  over  one  side  of  his  face,  which 


parry's  second  voyage. 


119 


'vvas  frozen  as  hard  as  a  mask  ;  the  eyelids  were  stiftj 
and  one  corner  of  the  upper  lip  so  drawn  np  as  to 
expose  the  teeth  and  gums.  My  hands  being  still 
warm,  I  had  the  happiness  of  restoring  the  circulation, 
after  which  I  used  all  ray  endeavors  to  keep  the  poor 
fellow  in  motion ;  but  he  complained  sadly  of  giddi- 
ness and  dimness  of  sight,  and  was  so  weak  as  to  be 
unable  to  walk  without  assistance.  His  case  was  so 
alarming,  that  I  expected  every  moment  he  would  lie 
down,  never  to  rise  again. 

"  Our  prospect  now  became  every  moment  more 
gloomy,  and  it  was  but  too  probable  that  tour  of  our 
party  would  be  unable  to  survive  anotlier  hour.  Mr. 
ralmer,  however,  endeavored,  as  well  as  myself,  to 
cheer  the  people  up,  but  it  was  a  faint  attempt,  as  wo 
had  not  a  single  hope  to  give  them.  Every  piece  of 
ice,  or  even  of  small  rock  or  stone,  was  now  supposed 
to  be  the  ships,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  prevent- 
ing the  men  from  running  to  the  different  objects  which 
attracted  them,  and  consequently  losing  themselves  in 
the  drift.  In  this  state,  while  Mr.  Palmer  was  running 
round  us  to  warm  himself,  he  suddenly  pitched  on  a 
new  beaten  track,  and  as  exercise  was  indispensable, 
we  determined  on  following  it,  wherever  it  might  lead 
us.  Having  taken  the  Sergeant  under  my  coat,  he  re- 
covered a  little,  and  we  moved  onward,  when  to  our 
infinite  joy  we  found  that  the  path  led  to  the  ships." 

As  the  result  of  this  exposure,  one  man  had  two  of 
his  fingers  so  badly  frost-bitten  as  to  lose  a  good  deal 
of  the  flesh  of  the  upper  ends,  and  for  many  days  it 
was  feared  that  he  would  be  obliged  to  have  them  am- 
putated. Quarter-master  Carr,  one  of  those  who  had 
been  the  most  hardy  while  in  the  air,  fainted  twice  on 
getting  below,  and  every  one  had  severe  frost-bites  in 
different  parts  of  the  boay,  which  recovered  after  the 
usual  loss  of  skin  in  these  cases. 

One  of  the  Esquimaux  females,  by  name  Igloolik, 
who  plays  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  narrative,  was  a 
general  favorite,  being  possessed  of  a  large  find  of 
useful  information,  having  a  good  voice  and  ear  for 


II    I 


120 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


music,  being  an  excellent  seamstress,  and  liaving  such 
a  good  idea  of  the  hydrography  and  bearings  of  the 
neighboring  sea-coasts,  as  to  draw  charts  which  guided 
Parry  much  in  his  future  operations,  fur  he  found  lier 
sketches  to  be  in  the  main  correct.  She  connected  the 
jand  from  their  winter  quarters  to  the  northwest  sea, 
rounding  and  terminating  the  northern  extremity  of 
this  part  of  America,  by  a  large  island,  and  a  strait  of 
sufficient  magnitude  to  aftbrd  a  safe  passage  for  the 
ships.  This  little  northwest  passage,  observes  Lyon, 
set  us  all  'castle-building,  and  we  already  fancied  the 
worst  part  of  our  voyage  over  ;  or,  at  all  events,  that 
before  half  the  ensuing  summer  was  past,  we  should 
arrive  at  Akkoolee,  the  Esquimaux  settlement  on  the 
western  shore.  Half-way  between  that  coast  and  Re 
pulse  Bay,  Igloolik  drew  on  her  chart  a  lake  of  consid- 
erable size,  naving  small  streams  running  from  it  to 
the  sea,  on  each  side ;  and  the  correctness  of  this  infor- 
mation was  fully  proved  by  Eae  in  his  recent  expedi- 
tion in  1846. 

On  the  13th  of  April  their  Esquimaux  friends  took 
their  dej^arture  for  other  quarters  ;  towards  the  end  of 
the  month  the  crews  completed  the  cutting  of  trenches 
round  the  vessels,  in  order  that  they  might  rise  to  their 
proper  bearings  previous  to  working  in  the  holds,  and 
the  ships  floated  like  corks  on  their  native  element, 
after  their  long  imprisonment  of  191  days.  As  the 
season  appeared  to  be  improving,  another  land  expedi- 
tion was  determined  on,  and  Captain  Lyon  and  Lieu- 
tenant Palmer,  attended  by  a  party  of  eight  men,  set 
oft*  on  the  8th  of  May,  taking  with  them  twenty  days' 
provisions.  Each  man  drew  on  a  sledge  126  lbs.,  and 
the  officers  95  lbs.  a-piece. 

"  Loaded  as  we  were,"  says  the  'eader,  "it  was  with 
the  greatest  difficulty  we  made  our  way  among  and 
over  the  hummocks,  ourselves  and  sledges  taking  some 
very  unpleasant  tumbles.  It  required  two  and  a  half 
hours  to  rross  the  ice,  although  the  distance  was  not 
two  miles,  and  We  then  landed  on  a  small  island,  where 
we  passed  the  night." 


■.^sL. 


TAJRliY  S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


121 


i^Lvei-al  islands  and  shoals  in  the  strait  were  named 
Bird's  Isles.  At  noon  on  the  11th,  they  camped  at  the 
head  of  a  fine  bav,  to  which  the  name  of  IJlakc  was 
mven.  In  spite  of  all  the  care  which  had  been  taken 
by  using  crape  shades,  and  other  coverings  fur  the  eyes, 
live  of  the  party  became  severely  afflicted  with  snow 
blindness.  Before  evening  two  of  the  sufferers  were 
quite  blinded  by  the  inflammation.  Their  facen,  eyes, 
and  even  heads,  being  much  swollen,  and  very  red. 
Bathing  would  have  afforded  relief,  but  the  nun  did  not 
produce  a  droj)  of  water,  and  their  stock  of  fuel  l)eing 
limited,  they  could  only  spare  enough  wood  to  thaw 
snow  for  their  midday  draught. 

As  the  morning  of  the  12th  brought  no  change  in  the 
invalids,  another  day  was  lost.  Toward  evening,  by 
breaking  pieces  of  ice,  and  placing  them  in  the  full 
glare  of  the  sun,  sufficient  water  was  obtained,  botli  for 
drinking  and  for  the  sick  to  bathe  their  faces,  which 
afforded  them  amazing  relief,  and  on  the  morrow  they 
were  enabled  to  resume  their  journey.  At  noon  the 
sun  was  sufficiently  powei*fal  to  afford  the  travelers  a 
draught  of  water,  without  having  to  thaw  it,  as  had 
hitherto  been  the  case. 

For  nearly  three  days  after  this,  they  were  imprisoned 
in  their  low  tent  by  a  snow-storm,  but  on  the  morning 
of  the  18th,  they  were  enabled  to  sally  out  to  stretch 
their  legs,  and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sun.  After  exam- 
ining many  bays  and  indentations  of  the  coast,  the  party 
returned  to  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  the  21st.  A 
canal  was  now  cut  through  the  ice,  to  get  the  ships  to 
the  open  water,  in  length  2400  feet,  and  varying  in 
breadth  from  60  to  197  teet.  The  average  thickness  of 
the  ice  was  four  feet,  but  in  some  places  it  was  as  much 
as  twelve  feet.  This  truly  arduous  task  had  occupied  the 
crews  for  fifteen  days,  from  six  in  the  morning  to  eight 
in  the  evening ;  but  they  labored  at  it  with  the  greatest 
spirit  and  good  humor,  and  it  was  concluded  on  the  18th 
of  June,  when  the  officers  and  men  began  to  take  leave 
of  their  several  haunts  and  promenades,  particularly 
the  "  garden  "  of  each  ship,  which  had  become  favorite 


122 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


lounges  during  their  nine  months'  detention.  A  few 
ill-fated  bunting  came  near  enough  to  be  shot,  and  were 
instantly  roasted  for  a  farewell  supper,  and  bright  vis- 
ions of  active  exertions  on  the  water  on  the  morrow 
were  universally  entertained.  But  the  night  dispelled 
all  these  airy  castles,  for  with  the  morning's  dawn  they 
found  that  the  whole  body  of  ice  astern  of  the  ships 
had  broke  adrift,  filled  up  the  hard-wrought  canal,  and 
imprisoned  them  as  firm  as  ever. 

Death  now  for  the  first  time  visited  the  crews.  James 
Pringle,  a  seaman  of  the  Hecla,  fell  from  the  mast-head 
to  the  deck,  and  was  killed  on  the  18th  of  May.  Wm. 
Souter,  quarter-master,  and  John  Reid,  Carpenter's 
mate,  belonging  to  the  Fury,  died  on  the  26th  and  27th, 
of  natural  causes.  Toward  the  end  of  June,  the  sea 
began  to  clear  rapidly  to  the  eastward,  and  the  bay  ice 
soon  gave  way  as  far  as  where  the  ships  were  lying,  and 
on  the  2d  of  July  they  put  to  sea  with  a  fresh  breeze, 
after  having  been  frozen  in  for  267  days. 

In  making  their  way  to  the  northward,  they  were  fre- 
quently in  much  danger.  On  the  3d,  the  ice  came 
down  on  the  Hecla  witn  such  force  as  to  carry  her  on 
board  the  Fury,  by  which  the  Hecla  broke  her  best  bower 
anchor,  and  cut  her  waist-boat  in  two.  On  the  4th,  the 
pressure  of  the  ice  was  so  great  as  to  break  the  Hecla 
adrift  fi'om  three  hawsers.  Four  or  five  men  were  each 
on  separate  pieces  of  ice,  parted  from  the  ships  in  the 
endeavor  to  run  out  a  hawser.  A  heavy  pressure  closing 
the  loose  ice  unexpectedly  gave  them  a  road  on  board 
again,  or  they  must  have  been  carried  away  by  the 
stream  to  certain  destruction.  On  the  8th,  the  JEEecla 
had  got  her  stream-cable  out,  in  addition  to  the  other 
hawsers,  and  made  fast  to  the  land  ice,  when  a  very 
heavy  and  extensive  floe  took  the  ship  on  her  broad 
side,  and  being  backed  by  another  large  body  of  ice, 
gradually  lifted  her  stem  as  if  by  the  action  of  a  wedge. 

"  The  weight  every  moment  increasing,  obliged  us," 
says  Captain  Lyon,  "  to  veer  on  the  hawsers,  whose  fric- 
tion was  so  great  as  nearly  to  cut  through  the  bitt-heads, 
and  ultimately  to  set  them  on  fire,  so  that  it  became 


■iiri^J^ 


PAHUy's   SECO.'ID   \\)V    'UC. 


123 


requisite  for  people  to  attend  with  buckets  of  water. 
The  pressure  was  at  length  too  powerful  for  resistance, 
and  the  stream-cable,  with  two  six  and  one  live-inch 
hawsers,  all  gave  way  at  the  same  moment,  three  others 
60on  following  them.  The  sea  was  too  full  of  ice  to 
allow  the  ship  to  drive,  and  the*  only  way  in  which  she 
could  yield  to  the  enormous  weight  whicli  oppressed  her, 
was  by  leaning  over  on  the  land  ice,  while  her  stem  at 
the  same  time  was  entirely  lifted  to  above  the  height  ot 
five  feet  out  of  the  water.  The  lower  deck  beams  now 
complained  very  much,  and  the  whole  frame  of  tlio 
ship  underwent  a  trial  which  would  have  proved  fatal 
to  any  less  strengthened  vessel.  At  the  same  moment, 
the  rudder  was  unhung  with  a  sudden  jerk,  which  broke 
up  the  rudder-case,  and  struck  the  driver-boom  with 
great  force." 

From  this  perilous  position  she  was  released  almost 
by  a  miracle,  and  the  rudder  re-hung. 

The  ships  av  last  reached  the  island  which  had  been  so 
accurately  described  to  them  by  the  Esquimaux  lady  — 
Iglolik,  where  they  came  upon  an  encampment  of 
120  Esquimaux,  in  tents.  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon 
and  other  officers  made  frequent  exploring  excursions 
along  the  shores  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla  strait,  and  in- 
land. On  the  26th  of  August  the  ships  entered  tliis 
strait,  which  was  found  blocked  up  with  flat  ice.  The 
season  had  also  now  assumed  so  wintry  an  aspect  that 
there  seemed  but  little  probability  of  getting  much  far- 
ther west :  knowing  of  no  harbor  to  protect  the  ships, 
unless  a  favorable  change  took  place,  they  had  the 
gloomy  prospect  before  them  of  wintering  in  or  near 
this  frozen  strait.  Boating  and  land  parties  were  dis- 
patched in  several  directions,  to  report  upon  the  differ- 
ent localities. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Captain  Lj^on  landed  on 
an  island  of  slate  formation,  about  six  mdes  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  ships,  which  he  named  Amherst  Island.  The 
result  of  these  expeditions  proved  that  it  was  impracti- 
cable, either  by  boats  or  water  conveyance,  to  examine 
any  part  of  the  land  southwest  of  Iglolik,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  ice. 


;i   p  ! 


t. 


121 


I'liOOULSS    UK  AKCTICJ   1JI8C0VKRY. 


Mr.  Roid  and  a  boat-party  traveled  about  sixty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Ainherrit  Island,  and  ascertained  the 
termination  ot*  the  strait.  On  a  consultation  with  the 
otiicers,  Captain  l*arry  determined  to  seek  a  berth  near 
to  Iglolik,  in  which  to  secure  tl»e  ships  for  the  winter. 
They  had  now  been  sixty-live  days  strug^linf^  to  get 
forward,  but  had  only  in  that  time  reached  forty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Iglolik.  The  vessels  made  tiie  best 
of  their  way  to  the  natural  channel  between  this  island 
and  the  land,  but  were  for  some  time  drifted  with  the 
ice,  losing  several  anchors,  and  it  M'as  only  bv  hard 
work  in  cutting  channels  that  they  were  brought  into 
safer  quarters,  near  the  land.  Som-.^  fine  teams  of  dogs 
were  here  purchased  from  the  Esquimaux,  which  were 
found  very  serviceable  in  making  excursions  on  sledges. 

Their  second  Christmas  day  in  this  region  bad  now 
arrived,  and  Lyon  informs  us  — 

"  Captain  Parry  dined  with  me,  and  was  treated  wit  . 
a  superb  display  of  mustard  and  cress,  with  about  fifty 
onions,  rivaling  a  fine  needle  in  size,  which  I  had  reared 
in  boxes  round  my  cabin  stove.  All  our  messes  in 
either  ship  were  supplied  with  an  extra  pound  of  real 
English  fresh  beef,  which  had  been  hanging  at  our 
quarter  for  eighteen  months.  We  could  not  afford  to 
leave  it  for  a  farther  trial  of  keeping,  but  I  have  no  doubt 
that  double  the  period  would  not  have  quite  spoiled  its 
flavor." 

This  winter  proved  much  more  severe  than  the  for- 
mer. Additional  clothing  was  found  necessary.  The 
Btove  funnels  collected  a  quantity  of  ice  within  them, 
notwithstanding  fires  were  kept  up  night  and  day,  so 
that  it  was  frequently  requisite  to  take  them  down  in 
order  to  break  and  melt  the  ice  out  of  them. 

Nothing  was  seen  of  the  sun  for  forty -two  days. 

On  the  15th  of  April,  Mr.  A.  Elder,  Greenland  mate 
of  the  Hecla,  died  of  dropsy:  he  had  been  leading  man 
with  Parry  on  Ross's  voyage,  and  for  his  good  conduct 
SVas  made  mate  of  the  Griper,  on  the  last  expedition. 

On  the  6th  of  September,  1823,  Mr.  George  Fife,  the 
pilot,  also  died  of  scurvy. 


"ig 


-.    j^V  ^-■t.-l. 


PARRV'S  SECOND   VOYAOE. 


125 


After  taking  n  review  of  their  provisions,  and  the 

1)rohabiUty  of  having  to  pass  a  thira  winter  here,  Capt. 
*arry  detenuined  to  send  the  Ilecla  home,  taking  from 
her  all  the  provision  that  could  be  spared.  Little  or 
no  hopes  could  he  entertained  of  anv  passage  being 
found  to  the  westward,  otherwise  than  by  the  strait  now 
BO  firmly  closed  with  ice ;  but  Parry  trusted  that  some 
interesting  additions  might  be  made  to  the  geography 
of  tliese  dreary  regions,  by  attempting  a  passage  to  the 
northward  or  eastward,  in  hopes  of  finding  an  outlet  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  Prince  Kegent's  Lalet. 

On  the  21st  of  April,  1823,  they  began  transshipping 
the  provisions ;  the  teams  of  dogs  being  found  moat 
useful  for  this  purpose.  Even  two  anchors  of  22  cwt. 
each,  were  drawn  by  these  noble  animals  at  a  quick 
trot. 

Upon  admitting  daylight  at  the  stern  windows  of  the 
Ilecla,  on  the  22d,  tno  gloomy,  sootv  cabin  showed  to 
no  great  advantage  ;  no  less  than  ten  buckets  of  ice  were 
taken  from  the  sashes  and  out  of  the  stern  lockers,  from 
which  latter  some  spare  flannels  and  instruments  were 
only  liberated  bv  chopping. 

On  the  7th  o^  June,  Captain  Lyon,  with  a  party  of 
men,  set  off  across  the  Melville  Peninsula,  to  endeavor 
to  get  a  sight  of  the  western  sea,  of  which  they  had  re- 
ceived descriptive  accounts  from  the  natives,  but  ow- 
ing to  the  difficulties  of  traveling,  and  the  ranges  of 
mountains  they  met  with,  they  returned  unsuccessful, 
after  being  out  twenty  days.  Another  inland  trip  of  a 
fortnight  followed. 

On  the  Ist  of  August,  the  Hecla  was  reported  ready 
for  sea.  Some  symptoms  <3f  scurvy  having  again  made 
their  appearance  in  the  ships,  and  the  surgeons  report- 
ing that  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  continue  longer, 
Captain  Parry  reluctantly  determined  to  proceed  home 
with  both  ships.  After  being  319  days  in  their  winter 
quarters,  the  ships  got  away  on  the  9th  of  August. 

A  conspicuous  landmark,  with  dispatches,  was  set 
up  on  the  main-land,  for  the  information  of  Franklin, 
should  ho  reach  thia  quarter. 

6 


il 


liiil 


Sif.l 


J> 


120 


rUOGULSa   OK   AKOTIC   DISCuVKKY. 


On  roachin^  Winter  Island,  and  visitinfy  tlicir  las 
year's  j^arden,  radiHlios,  nuistard  and  crosM,  and  «.»ni()nA 
were  })rou«;ht  off,  which  liad  survived  the  winter  and 
were  still  alive,  seventeen  months  from  the  time  they 
were  }>lanted,  a  very  remarkable  j)root'  of  their  having 
been  preserved  by  the  warm  coverin<r  of  snow. 

The  ships,  during  the  whole  of  this  passage,  were 
driven  by  the  current  more  than  three  degrees,  entirely 
at  the  mercy  of  the  ice,  being  carried  into  every  bight, 
and  swept  over  each  point,  without  the  power  of  heli> 
ing  themselves. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  they  were  driven  up  Lyon 
Inlet,  where  they  were  confined  high  up  till  the  Cth, 
when  a  breeze  sprung  up,  which  took  tliem  down  to 
within  three  miles  of  Wmter  Island  ;  still  it  was  not 
until  the  12th,  that  they  got  thorougldy  clear  of  the  in- 
draught. The  danger  and  suspense  of  these  twelve 
days  were  horrible,  and  Lyon  justly  observes,  that  he 
would  prefer  being  frozen  up  during  another  eleven 
months  winter,  to  again  passing  so  anxious  a  period 
of  time. 

"  Ten  of  the  twelve  nights  were  passed  on  deck,  in 
expectation,  each  tide,  of  some  decided  change  in  our 
affairs,  either  by  being  left  on  the  rocks,  or  grounding 
in  such  shoal  water,  that  the  whole  body  of  the  ice  must 
have  slid  over  us.  But,  as  that  good  old  seaman  Baffin 
expresses  himself, '  God,  who  is  greater  than  either  ice 
or  tide,  always  delivered  us  I '" 

For  thirty-five  days  the  ships  had  been  beset,  and  in 
that  period  had  driven  with  the  ice  above  300  miles, 
without  any  exertion  on  their  part,  and  also  without  a 
possibility  of  extricating  themselves.  On  the  23d  of 
September,  they  once  more  got  into  the  swell  of  tho 
Atlantic,  and  on  the  10th  of  October,  arrived  at  Ler- 
wick, in  Shetland. 

Claveeing's  Voyage  to  Spitzbergen  and  Greebt- 

LAND,  1823. 

^  In  1823,  Capt.  Sabine,  E.  A.,  who  had  been  for  some 
time  engaged  in  magnetic  observations,  and  alio  in 


..i.  -iv,a^A-^.._iia<P.-.l,1'^l.r. 


CLAVEIiINO  S   VOVAOK. 


127 


experiments  to  doterinino  the  confif^urntion  of  the  earth, 
by  means  of  peiululuia  vil)nition8  in  ciitVerent  latitudes, 
havin«'  perfected  his  observations  at  ditierent  points, 
from  tlie  E(piator  to  the  Arctic  Circle,  suggested  to  the 
Royal  Society,  through  Sir  Humphry  Davy,  tlie  imi)or- 
tanco  of  extending  similar  experiments  into  hi«^her  lat- 
itudes toward  the  l*ole.  Accordin<^ly,  the  fjovernmcnt 
placed  at  his  disposal  11.  M.  S.  Griper,  TJO  tons.  Com- 
mander Claverin^,  which  was  to  convey  him  to  Spitz- 
bersjen,  and  thence  to  the  east  coast  of  Greenland. 

Tlio  Griper  sailed  from  the  Nore,  on  the  11th  of  May, 
and  proceeded  to  llaramerfest,  or  Whale  Island,  near 
the  ISorth  Cape,  in  Korway,  which  she  reached  on* the 
4th  of  Juno,  and  Capt.  Sabine  having  tinished  his  shore 
observations  by  the  23d,  the  vessel  set  sail  for  Spitzber- 
gen.  She  fell  in  with  ice  off  Cherry  Island,  in  hit.  75° 
5',  on  the  27th,  and  on  the  30th  disembarked  the  tents 
and  instruments  on  one  of  the  small  islands  round 
Ilakluyt's  Headland,  near  the  eightieth  parallel.  Cupt. 
Clavering,  meanwhile,  sailed  in  the  Griper  due  north, 
and  reached  the  latitude  of  80°  20',  whei'e  being  stop- 
ped by  close  packed  ice,  he  was  obliged  to  return. 

On  the  24th  of  July,  they  again  put  to  sea,  directing 
their  course  for  the  highest  known  point  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  Greenland.  They  met  with  many  fields  of  ice, 
and  made  the  land,  which  had  a  most  miserable,  deso- 
late appearance,  at  a  point  which  was  named  Cape  Uor- 
lase  Warren.  Two  islands  were  discovered,  and  as 
Capt.  Sabine  here  landed  and  carried  on  his  observa- 
tions, they  were  called  Pendulum  Islands.  From  an 
island  situate  in  lat.  75°  12',  to  which  he  gave  the  name 
of  Shannon  Island,  Clavering  saw  high  land,  stretch- 
ing due  north  as  far  as  lat.  76°. 

On  the  16th  of  August,  Clayering  landed  with  a 

f)arty  of  tliree  oflScors,  and  sixteen  men  on  the  main- 
and,  to  examine  the  shores.  The  temperature  did  not 
sink  below  23°,  and  they  slept  for  nearly  a  fortnij^ht 
they  were  on  shore  with  only  a  boat-cloak  and  blanket 
for  a  covering,  without  feeling  any  inconvenience  from 
the  cold.    A  tribe  of  twelve  Esquimaux  was  met  with 


t ' 


A 


\ 


m 


m 


|<  •}:^ 


'§ 


128 


PEOQEESS  OF  AEOnO  DISCOVEET. 


here.  They  reached  in  their  journey  a  magnificenl 
inlet,  about  fifty  miles  in  circumference,  which  was  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  which  Gale  Hamkes  discovered 
in  1654,  and  which  bears  his  name.  The  mountains 
round  its  sides  were  4000  to  5000  feet  high.  On  the 
29th  of  August,  they  returned  on  board,  and  having 
embarked  the  tents  and  instruments,  the  ship  again  set 
sail  on  the  31st,  keeping  the  coast  in  view  to  Capo 
Parry,  lat.  72  i°.  The  cliffs  were  observed  to  be  sev- 
eral thousand  feet  high.  On  the  13th  of  September, 
as  the  ice  in  shore  began  to  get  very  troublesome,  the 
ship  stood  out  to  sea,  and  after  encountering  a  very 
heavy  gale,  which  drove  them  with  great  fury  to  the 
southward,  and  it  not  being  thought  prudent  to  make 
for  Ireland,  a  station  in  about  the  same  latitude  on  the 
Norway  coast  was  chosen  instead  by  Capt.  Sabine. 
They  made  the  land  about  the  latitude  of  Christian- 
Bound.  On  the  1st  of  October,  the  Griper  struck  hard 
on  a  sunken  rock,  but  got  off  undamaged. 

On  the  6th,  they  anchored  in  Drontheim  Fiord, 
where  they  were  received  with  much  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality, and  after  the  necessary  observations  had  been 
completed  the  ship  proceeded  homeward,  and  reached 
Deptford  on  the  19th  of  December,  1823. 

Lyon's  Yoyage  in  the  Geipee. 

In  1824,  three  expeditions  were  ordered  out,  to  carry 
on  simultaneous  operations  in  Arctic  discovery.  To 
Capt.  Lyon  was  committed  the  task  of  examining  and 
completing  the  survey  of  the  Melville  Peninsula,  the 
adjoming  straits,  and  the  shores  of  Arctic  America,  if 
possible  as  far  as  Franklin's  turning  point.  Capt.  Lyon 
was  therefore  gazetted  to  the  Griper  gun-brig,  which 
had  taken  out  Capt.  Sabine  to  Spitzbergen,  in  the  pre- 
vious year.  The  following  officers  and  crew  were  also 
appointed  to  her  : — 

Chiper. 

Captain  —  G.F.Lyon. 

Lieutenants — P.  Jlanico  and  F.  Harding. 


„M. 


LYON'S   VOYAGE. 


129 


Assistant-Surveyor  —  E.  N.  Kendal. 
Purser — J.Evans.  * 

Assistant-Surgeon  —  "W".  Leyson. 
Midshipman  —  J.  Tom. 
34  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 
Total  complement,  41. 

It  was  not  till  the  20tK  of  June,  that  the  Griper  got 
hway  from  England,  being  a  full  month  later  than  the 
usual  period  of  departure,  and  the  vessel  was  at  the 
Lest.but  an  old  tub  in  her  sailing  propensities.  A  small 
tender,  called  the  Snap,  was  ordered  to  accompany  her 
with  stores,  as  far  as  the  ice,  and  having  been  relieved 
of  her  supplies,  she  was  sent  home  on  reaching  Hud- 
son's Straits. 

The  Griper  made  but  slow  progress  in  her  deeply  la- 
den state,  ner  crowded  decks  being  continually  swept 
by  heavy  seas,  and  it  was  not  until  the  end  of  August, 
that  she  rounded  the  southern  head  of  Southampton 
Island,  and  stood  up  toward  Sir  Thomas  Koe's  wel 
come.  On  reaching  the  entrance  of  this  channel  they 
encountered  a  terrific  gale,  which  for  a  long  time 
threatened  the  destruction  of  both  ship  and  crew. 
Drifting  with  this,  they  brought  up  the  ship  with  four 
anchors,  in  a  bay  with  five  fathoms  and  a  half  water, 
in  the  momentary  expectation  that  with  the  ebb  tide 
the  ship  would  take  the  ground,  as  the  sea  broke  fear- 
fully on  a  low  sandy  beach  just  astern,  and  had  the  an- 
chors parted,  nothing  could  have  saved  the  vessel. 
Neither  commander  nor  crew  had  been  in  bed  for  three 
nights,  and  although  little  hope  was  entertained  of  sur- 
viving the  gale,  and  no  boat  could  live  in  such  a  sea, 
the  officers  and  crew  performed  their  several  duties 
with  their  accustomed  coolness.  Each  man  was  or- 
dered to  put  on  his  warmest  clothing,  and  to  take  charge 
of  some  useful  instrument.  The  scene  is  best  described 
in  the  words  of  the  gallant  commander  : — 

"Each,  therefore,  brought  his  bag  on  deck,  and 
dressed  himself;  and  in  the  fine  athletic  forms  which 
stood  exposed  before  me,  I  did  not  see  one  muscle  qui- 


0' 


130 


PROGRESS   OF    iRCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


ver,  nor  the  slightest  sign  of  alarm.  Prayers  were  read, 
and  tliey  then  all  sat  down  in  groups,  sheltered  from  the 
wash  of  the  sea  by  whatever  they  could  find,  and  some 
endeavored  to  obtain  a  little  sleep.  Never,  perhaps 
was  witnessed  a  finer  scene  than  on  the  deck  of  m^ 
little  ship,  when  all  hope  of  life  had  left  us.  Noble  as 
the  character  of  the  British  sailor  is  always  allowed  to 
be  in  cases  of  danger,  yet  I  did  not  believe  it  to  be  pos- 
sible that  among  forty-one  persons  not  one  repining 
word  should  have  been  uttered.  Each  was  at  peace 
with  his  neighbor  and  all  the  world  ;  and  I  am  nrmly 
persuaded  that  the  resignation  which  was  then  shown 
to  the  will  of  the  Almighty,  was  the  means  of  obtain- 
ing His  mercy.  God  was  merciful  to  us,  and  the  tide, 
almost  miraculously,  fell  no  lower."  The  appropriate 
name  of  the  Bay  of  God's  Mercy  has  been  given  to 
this  spot  on  the  charts  by  Captain  Lyon. 

Proceeding  onward  up  the  Welcome,  they  encoun- 
tered, about  a  fortnight  later,  another  fearful  storm. 
On  the  12th  of  September,  when  off  the  entrance  of 
"Wager  Inlet,  it  blew  so  hard  for  two  days,  that  on  the 
13th  the  ship  was  driven  from  her  anchors,  and  carried 
away  by  the  fury  of  the  gale,  with  every  prospect  of 
being  momentarily  dashed  to  pieces  against  any  hid- 
den rock ;  but  the  same  good  Providence  which  had 
so  recently  befriended  them,  again  stood  their  protec- 
tor. On  consulting  with  his  officers,  it  was  unani- 
mously resolved,  that  in  the  crippled  state  of  the  ship, 
without  any  anchor,  and  with  her  compasses  worse 
than  useless,  it  would  be  madness  to  continue  the  voy- 
age, and  the  ship's  course  was  therefore  shaped  for 
England. 

I  may  observe,  that  the  old  Griper  ia  now  laid  up  as 
a  hulk  in  Chichester  Harbor,  furnishing  a  residence 
and  depot  for  the  coast  guard  station. 

Parry's  Third  Voyage. 

In  the  spring  of  1824:  the  Admiralty  determined  to 
give  Capt.  Parry  another  opportunity  of  carrying  ort 


^^  ■■' 


parry's  THUID  VOYAGE. 


131 


the  great  problem  which  had  so  long  been  sought  af- 
ter, of  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Pacific,  and  so  gen- 
erally esteemed  was  this  gallant  commander  that  he 
had  but  to  hoist  his  pennant,  when  fearless  of  all  dan- 
ger, and  in  a  noble  spirit  of  emulation,  his  former  as- 
sociates rallied  around  him. 

The  same  two  ships  were  employed  as  before,  bui 
Parry  now  selected  the  Hecla  for  his  pennant.  The 
staff  of  officers  and  men  was  as  follows  :  — 

Hedla. 

Captain  —  W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  J.  L.   Wynn,  Joseph  Sherer,  and 

Henry  Foster. 
Surgeon  —  Samuel  Neill,  M.  D. 
Purser — "W.  H.  Hooper. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  VV".  Rowland. 
Midshipmen  —  J.  Brunton,  F.  R.  M.  Crozier,  0. 

Richards,  and  H.  N.  Head. 
Greenland    Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master;    and  G. 

Champion,  mate. 
49  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  and  Marinea. 
Total  complement,  62. 

Fury. 

Commander  —  H.  P.  Hoppner. 

Lieutenants  —  H.  T.  Austin  and  J.  0.  Ross. 

Surgeon  —  A.  M'Laren. 

Purser — J.  Halse. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  T.  Bell. 

Midshipmen  —  B.  "Westropp,  C.  C.  Waller,  and  E. 
Bird. 

Clerk  —  W.  Mogg. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  G.  Crawford,  master ;  T.  Don- 
aldson, mate. 

48  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  and  Marines. 
Total  complement,  60. 

The  William  Harris,  transport,  was  commissioned 
to  accompany  the  ships  to  the  ice  with  provisions. 


riifi 


M 


% 


132 


rKOORESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


Among  tlie  promotions  made,  it  will  be  seen,  were 
Lieut.  Hoppner  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  and  second 
in  command  of  the  expedition.  Messrs.  J.  Sherer, 
and  J.  C.  Ross  to  be  Lieutenants,  and  J.  Halse  to  be 
Purser.  The  attempt  on  this  occasion  was  to  be  made 
by  Lancaster  Sound  through  Barrow's  Strait  to  Prince 
Regent  Inlet.  The  ships  sailed  on  the  19th  of  May, 
1824,  and  a  month  afterward  fell  in  with  the  body  cf 
the  ice  in  lat.  60}°.  After  transhipping  the  stores  to 
the  two  vessels,  and  sending  home  the  transport,  about 
the  middle  of  July  they  were  close  beset  with  the  ice 
in  Baffin's  Bay,  and  "from  this  time  (says  Parry)  the 
obstructions  from  the  quantity,  magnitude,  and  close- 
ness of  the  ice,  which  were  such  as  to  keep  our  people 
almost  constantly  employed  in  heaving,  warping,  or 
sawing  through  it ;  and  yet  with  so  little  success  that, 
at  the  close  of  July,  we  had  only  penetrated  seventy 
miles  to  the  westward."  After  encountering  a  severe 
gale  on  the  1st  of  August,  by  which  masses  of  overlay- 
ing ice  were  driven  one  upon  the  other,  the  Hecla  was 
laid  on  her  broadside  by  a  strain,  which  Parry  says 
must  inevitably  have  crushed  a  vessel  of  ordinary 
strength ;  they  got  clear  of  the  chief  obstructions  by 
the  first  week  in  September.  During  the  whole  of 
August  they  had  not  one  day  sufficiently  free  from 
rain,  snow,  or  sleet,  to  be  able  to  air  the  bedding  of 
the  ship's  company. 

They  enterea  Lancaster  Sound  on  the  lOtli  of  Sep- 
tember, and  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  berg  or 
two  found  it  clear  of  ice.  A  few  days  after,  however, 
they  fell  in  with  the  young  ice,  which  increasing  daily 
in  thickness,  the  ships  became  beset,  and  by  the  cur- 
rent which  set  to  the  east  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an 
hour,  they  were  soon  drifted  back  to  the  eastward  of 
Admiralty  Inlet,  and  on  the  23d  thev  found  them- 
selves again  off  "WoUaston  Island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Navy  Board  Inlet.  By  perseverance,  however,  and  the 
aid  of  a  strong  easterly  breeze,  they  once  more  man- 
aged to  recover  their  lost  ground,  and  on  the  27tb 
reached  the  entrance  of  Port  Bowen  on  the  eastern 


TAliliY  S   TUIliD   VOYAGE. 


133 


shore  of  Prince  Regent  Inlet,  and  here  Parry  resolved 
upon  wintering;  this  making  the  fourth  winter  this 
enterprising  commander  had  passed  in  these  inhospi- 
table seas. 

The  usual  laborious  process  of  cutting  canals  had  to 
be  resorted  to,  in  order  to  get  the  ships  near  to  the 
shore  in  secure  and  sheltered  situations.  Parry  thus 
describes  the  dreary  monotonous  character  of  an  arctic 
winter :  — 

"It  is  hard  to  conceive  any  one  thinff  more  like 
another  than  two  winters  passed  in  the  higher  latitudes 
of  the  polar  regions,  except  when  variety  happens  to 
be  afforded  by  intercourse  with  seme  other  branch'  of 
the  whole  family  of  man.  Winter  after  winter,  nature 
here  assumes  an  aspect  so  much  alike,  that  cursory  ob- 
servation can  scarcely  detect  a  sino-le  feature  of  variety. 
The  winter  of  more  temperate  climates,  and  even  in 
some  of  no  slight  severity,  is  occasionally  diversified 
l)y  a  thaw,  which  at  once  gives  variety  and  compara- 
tive cheerfulness  to  the  pros^Dect.  But  here,  when  once 
the  earth  is  covered,  all  is  dreary  monotonous  white- 
ness, not  merely  for  days  or  weeks,  but  for  more  than 
half  a  year  together.  Whichever  way  the  eye  is  turn- 
ed, it  meets  a  picture  calculated  to  impress  upon  the 
mind  an  idea  of  inanimate  stillness,  of  that  motionless 
torpor  with  which  our  feelings  have  nothing  congenial ; 
of  any  thing,  in  short,  but  life.  In  the  very  silence 
there  is  a  deadness  with  which  a  human  spectator  ap- 
pears out  of  keeping.  The  presence  of  man  seems  an 
intrusion  on  the  dreary  solitude  of  this  wintry  desert, 
which  even  its  native  animals  have  for  awhile  forsaken." 

During  this  year  Parry  tells  us  the  thermometer  re- 
mained below  zero  131  days,  and  did  not  rise  above 
that  point  till  the  11th  of  April.  The  sun,  which  had 
been  absent  from  their  view  121  days,  again  blessed 
the  crews  with  his  rays  on  the  22d  of  February.  Du- 
ring this  long  imprisonment,  schools,  scientific  observa- 
tions, walking  parties,  &c.,  were  resorted  to,  but  "  our 
former  amusements,"  says  Parry,  "  being  almost  worn 
threadbare,  it  required  some  ingenuity  to  devise  any 

6* 


m 


lU 


I'KOGUKSS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVlCliY. 


plan  that  should  possess  the  charm  of  novelty  to  re- 
commend it."  A  happy  idea  was,  however,  hit  upon  hy 
Commander  Iloppncr,  at  whose  suggestion  a  monthly 
Ocfl  masque  was  heUl,  to  the  great  diversion  of  both 
oUicers  and  men,  to  the  number  of  120.  The  populai 
commander  entered  gayly  into  their  recreations,  and 
thus  speaks  of  these  polar  masquerades  :  — 

'•  It  is  impossible  that  any  idea  could  have  proved 
more  happy,  or  more  exactly  suited  to  our  situatit)ii. 
Admirably  dressed  characters  of  various  descriptions 
readilv  took  their  parts,  and  many  of  these  were  suj)- 
ported  with  a  degree  of  spirit  and  genuine  good  liumor 
M'hich  would  not  have  disgraced  a  more  renned  assem- 
bly ;  while  the  latter  might  not  have  been  disgraced 
by  copying  the  good  order,  decorum,  and  inoftensivo 
cheerfulness  which  our  humble  masquerades  presented. 
It  does  especial  credit  to  the  dispositions  and  good 
sense  of  our  men,  that  though  all  the  officers  entered 
fully  into  the  spirit  of  these  amusements,  M'hich  took 
place  once  a  month  alternately  on  board  of  each  ship, 
no  instance  occurred  of  any  thing  that  could  interfei-e 
with  the  regular  discipline,  or  at  all  weaken  the  respect 
of  the  men  toward  their  superiors.  Ours  were  mas 
querades  without  licentiousness  —  carnivals  without 
excess." 

Exploring  parties  were  sent  out  in  several  directions. 
Commander  Iloppner  and  his  party  went  inland,  and 
after  a  fortnight's  fatiguing  journey  over  a  mountain- 
ous, barren,  and  desolate  country,  where  precipitous  ra- 
vines 600  feet  deep  obstructed  their  passage,  traveled 
a  degree  and  three-quarters  —  to  the  latitude  of  73°  19', 
but  saw  no  appearance  of  sea  from  thence. 

Lieutenant  Sherer,  with  four  men,  proceeded  to  the 
southward,  and  made  a  careful  survey  of  the  coast  as 
far  as  72  i^,  but  had  not  provisions  sufficient  to  go 
round  Cape  Kater,  the  southernmost  point  observed  in 
their  former  voyage. 

Lieutenant  J.  C.  Ross,  with  a  similar  party,  traveled 
to  the  northward,  along  the  coast  of  the  Inlet,  and  from 
the  hills  about  Cape  York,  observed  that  the  sea  was 


I  *■(., 


I'AKRYS   THIRD   VOYAGE. 


135 


perfectly  open  and  free  from  ice  at  the  distance  of 
twenty-two  miles  from  the  ships. 

A  fter  an  imprisonment  of  about  ten  months,  by  great 
exertions  the  ships  were  got  clear  from  the  ice,  and  on 
the  20th  of  Jnly,  1825,  upon  the  separation  of  the  tloo 
across  the  harbor,  towed  out  to  sea.  Parry  then  made 
for  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet,  being  desirous  of  ex- 
amining the  coast  of  North  Somerset  for  any  channel 
that  might  occur,  a  probability  which  later  discoveries 
in  that  quarter  have  proved  to  be  without  foundation. 
On  the  28th,  when  well  in  with  the  western  slioro,  tiie 
Ilecla,  in  spite  of  every  exertion,  was  beset  by  floating 
ice,  and  after  breaking  two  large  ice  anchors  in  en- 
deavoring to  heave  in  shore,  was  obliged  to  give  up  the 
eifort  and  drift  with  the  ice  until  the  30th.  On  the 
following  day,  a  heavy  gale  came  on,  in  which  the 
Hecla  carried  away  three  hawsers,  while  the  Fury  was 
driven  on  shore,  but  was  hove  off  at  high  water.  Both 
ships  were  now  drifted  by  the  body  of  the  ice  down  the 
Inlet,  and  took  the  ground,  the  Fury  being  so  nipped 
and  strained  that  she  leaked  a  great  deal,  and  four 
pumps  kept  constantly  at  work  did  not  keep  her  clear 
of  water.  They  were  floated  oft'  at  high  water,  but, 
late  on  the  2nd  of  August,  the  huge  masses  of  ice  once 
more  forced  the  Fury  on  shore,  and  the  Ilecla  narrowly 
escaped.  On  examining  her  and  getting  her  off",  it 
was  found  that  she  must  be  hove  down  and  repaired  ; 
a  basin  was  therefore  formed  for  her  reception  and 
completed  by  the  16th,  a  mile  further  to  the  southward, 
within  three  icebergs  grounded,  where  there  were  three 
or  four  fathoms  of  water.  Into  this  basin  she  was 
taken  on  the  18th,  and  her  stores  and  provisions  being 
removed,  she  was  hove  down,  but  a  gale  of  wind  com- 
ing on  and  destroying  the  masses  of  ice  which  shel- 
tered her,  it  became  necessary  to  re-embark  the  stores, 
&c.,  and  once  more  put  to  sea ;  but  the  unfortunate 
vessel  had  hardly  got  out  of  her  harbor  before,  on  the 
21st,  she  was  again  driven  on  shore.  After  a  careful 
survey  and  examination,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
abandon  her  ;  Parry's  opinion  being  thus  expressed  — 


13G 


I'JtOGKIiSS  OF   AliCriC   DISCOVERY. 


"  Every  endeavor  of  ours  to  get  her  off,  or  if  got  off,  to 
iloat  her  to  any  known  pUice  of  safety,  would  be  at 
once  utterly  hopeless  in  itself,  and  productive  of  ex- 
treme risk  to  our  remaining  ship." 

The  loss  of  this  ship,  and  the  crowded  state  of  the 
remaining  vessel,  made  it  impossible  to  think  of  con- 
tinuing the  voyage  for  the  pur^Doses  of  discovery. 

"  The  incessant  labor,  the  constant  state  of  anxiety, 
and  the  frequent  and  imminent  danger  into  which  the 
surviving  s'hip  was  thrown,  in  the  attempts  to  save  her 
comrade,  "which  were  continued  for  twenty-five  days, 
destroyed  every  reasonable  expectation  hitherto  cher- 
ished of  the  ultimate  accomplishment  of  this  object." 

Taking  advantage  of  a  northerly  wind,  on  the  27th 
the  Hecla  stretched  across  the  Inlet  for  the  eastern 
coast,  meeting  with  little  obstruction  from  the  ice,  and 
anchored  in  Neill's  Harbor,  a  short  distance  to  the 
southward  of  their  winter  quarters.  Port  Bowen,  where 
the  ship  was  got  ready  for  crossing  the  Atlantic. 

The  llecla  put  to  sea  on  the  31st  of  August,  and  en- 
tering Barrow's  Strait  on  the  Ist  of  September,  found 
it  perfectly  clear  of  ice.  In  Lancaster  Sound,  a  very 
large  number  of  bergs  were  seen  ;  but  they  found  an 
open  sea  in  Bafiin's  Bay,  till,  on  the  7th  of  September, 
when  in  latitude  75°  30',  they  came  to  the  margin  of 
''he  ice,  and  soon  entered  a  clear  channel  on  its  eastern 
side.  From  thirty  to  forty  large  icebergs,  not  less  than 
200  feet  in  height,  were  sighted. 

On  the  12  th  of  October,  Captain  Parry  landed  at 
Peterhead,  and  the  Hecla  arrived  at  Sheerness  on  the 
20th.  But  one  man  died  during  this  voyage — John 
Page,  a  seaman  of  the  Fury  —  who  died  of  scurvy,  in 
Weill's  Harbor,  on  the  29th  of  August. 

This  voyage  cannot  but  be  considered  the  most  unsuc- 
cessful of  the  three  made  by  Parry,  whether  as  regards 
the  information  gleaned  on  the  subject  of  a  northwest 
passage,  or  the  extension  of  our  store  of  geographical 
or  scientific  knowledge.  The  shores  of  this  inlet  were 
more  naked,  barren,  and  desolate  than  even  Melville 
Island.    With  the  exception  of  some  hundreds  of  white 


whales 
the  Inl 
were  S( 

"W( 
on  whi 
gether 
now  an| 

He 
object 
cial  nai 

"  1  fe 
iulvisul 
or  othc; 

t- 

dents  t 
must  b 
HtHTices 
or  luimi 
1)0  an  e 
practice 
ral  favo 
1)ined  fc 
less,  tha 

"  I  ar 
iiorthwe 
BUHimer 
of  very 
a  single 
meiit. 
of  final 
may  be 
comfort, 

Note 
passed 
wise  an< 

I 

TJnda 
encount 
of  ardo] 


frankun's  second  expedition. 


137 


wLales,  seen  sportinnj  about  the  southernmost  part  of 
the  Inlet  that  was  visited,  few  other  species  of  animals 
were  seen. 

"We  have  scarcely,"  says  Parry,  "ever  visited  a  coast 
on  which  so  little  of  animal  life  occurs.  For  days  to- 
gether only  one  or  two  seals,  a  single  sea-horse,  and 
now  and  then  a  flock  of  ducks  were  seen." 

He  still  clings  to  the  accomplishment  of  the  great 
object  of  a  northwest  passage.  At  page  184  of  his  offi- 
cial narrative,  he  says: — 

"  I  feel  confident  that  the  undertaking,  if  it  be  deemed 
lulvisable  at  any  future  time  to  j^ursue  it,  will  one  day 
fn\ other  be  accomplished  ;  for  —  setting  aside  the  acci- 
dents to  which,  from  their  very  nature,  such  attempts 
must  be  liable,  as  well  as  other  unfavorable  circum- 
Htnijces  which  human  foresight  can  never  guard  against, 
or  liuman  power  control — I  cannot  but  believe  it  to 
1)0  an  enterprise  well  within  the  reasonable  limits  of 
l)racticability.  It  may  be  tried  often  and  fail,  for  seve- 
rnl  favorable  and  fortunate  circumstances  must  be  com- 
1)iiied  for  its  accomplishment ;  but  I  believe,  neverthe- 
less, that  it  will  ultimately  be  accomplished." 

"  I  am  much  mistaken,  indeed,"  he  adds,  "if  the 
northwest  passage  ever  becomes  the  business  of  a  single 
Huuimcr ;  nay,  I  believe  that  nothing  but  a  concurrence 
of  very  favorable  circumstances  is  likely  ever  to  make 
a  single  winter  in  the  ice  sufficient  for  its  accomplish- 
ment. But  there  is  no  argument  against  the  possibility 
of  final  success ;  for  we  know  that  a  winter  in  the  ice 
may  be  passed  not  only  in  safety,  but  in  health  and 
comfort." 

Not  07ie  winter  alone,  but  two  and  three  have  been 
passed  with  health  and  safety  in  these  seas,  under  a 
wise  and  careful  commander. 

Franklin's  Second  Expedition,  1825-26. 

Undaunted  by  tlie  hardships  and  sufferings  he  had 
encountered  in  his  previous  travels  with  a  noble  spirit 
of  ardor  and  enthusiasm,  Captain  Franklin  determmcd 


\ 


138 


TKOGIUSeS   OF  AliCniC   DISCOVERY. 


«* 


to  prosecuto  tho  chain  of  his  former  discoveries  from 
the  Coppermine  river  to  the  most  western  point  of  tho 
Arctic  regions.  A  sea  expedition,  under  the  command 
of  Captam  Beechev  was  at  the  same  time  sent  round 
Cape  Horn  to  Behring's  Straits,  to  co-operate  with  Parry 
and  Franklin,  so  as  to  furnish  provisions  to  the  former, 
and  a  conveyance  home  to  the  latter. 

Captain  1  ranklin's  offer  was  therefore  accepted  by 
the  government,  and  leaving  Liverpool  in  February, 
1825,  he  arrived  at  New  York  about  the  middle  of 
March.  The  officers  under  his  orders  were  his  old  and 
tried  companions  and  fellow  sufferers  in  the  former  jour- 
ney —  Dr.  Richardson  and  Lieutenant  Back,  with  Mr. 
E.  N.  Kendal,  a  mate  in  the  navy,  who  had  been  out  in 
the  Griper  with  Capt.  Lyon,  and  Mr.  T.  Drummond,  a 
naturalist.  Four  boats,  specially  prepared  for  the  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition,  were  sent  out  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  ship. 

In  July,  1825,  the  party  arrived  at  Fort  Chipewyan. 
It  is  unnecessary  to  go  over  the  ground  and  follow  them 
in  their  northern  journey;  suffice  it  to  say,  they  reached 
Great  Bear  Lake  in  safety,  and  erected  a  winter  dwell- 
ing on  its  western  shore,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort 
Franklin  was  given.  To  Back  and  Mr.  Dease,  an  offi- 
cer in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  service,  were  in- 
trusted the  arrangements  for  their  winter  quarters. 

From  here  a  small  party  cet  out  with  Franldin  down 
the  Mackenzie  to  examine  the  state  of  the  Polar  Sea. 
On  the  6th  of  September  they  got  back  to  their  com- 
panions, and  prepared  to  pass  the  long  winter  of  seven 
or  eight  months. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1826,  the  season  being  suffi- 
ciently advanced,  and  all  their  preparations  completed, 
the  whole  party  got  away  in  four  boats  to  descend  the 
Mackenzie  to  the  Polar  Sea.  "Where  the  river  branches 
off  into  several  channels,  the  party  separated  on  the  3d 
of  July,  Captain  Franklin  and  Lieutenant  Back,  with 
two  boats  and  fourteen  men,  having  with  them  the 
faithful  Esquimaux  interpreter,  Augustus,  who  had 
been  with  them  on  the  former  expedition,  proceeded  to 


FltANKLIiN  B   SECOND   EXrilDITlUN. 


139 


tho  westward,  while  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Kendal 
in  the  other  two  boats,  having  ten  men  under  their 
command,  set  out  in  an  easterly  direction,  to  search 
the  CoDpermiue  River. 

Franlvlin  arrived  at  tho  month  of  tho  Mackenzie  on 
tho  7th  of  July,  where  he  cncmmtcrcd  a  lar«^e  tril)e  of 
lierco  Esquimaux,  wlio  pillaged  his  boats,  and  it  w;w 
ou\y  by  great  caution,  prndence  and  forbearance,  that 
the  whole  party  were  not  massacred.  After  getting  the 
boats  afloat,  and  clear  of  these  unpleasant  visitois, 
Franklin  pursued  his  survey,  a  most  tedious  and  di(H- 
cult  one,  for  more  than  a  month ;  he  was  only  able  to 
reach  a  point  in  latitude  70°  24'  N.,  longitude  149°'37' 
W.,  to  which  Back's  name  was  given  ;  and  here  pru- 
dence obliged  him  to  return,  although,  strangely  enough, 
a  boat  from  the  Blossom  was  waiting  not  160  miles  west 
of  his  position  to  meet  with  him.  The  extent  of  coast 
surveyed  was  374  miles.  The  return  journey  to  Fort 
Franklin  was  safely  accomplished,  and  they  arrived  at 
their  house  on  the  31st  of  September,  when  they  found 
Richardson  and  Kendal  had  returned  on  the  first  of 
the  month,  having  accomplished  a  voyage  of  about  500 
miles,  or  902  by  the  coast  line,  between  the  4th  of  July 
and  the  8th  of  August.  They  had  pushed  forward  be- 
yond the  strait  named  after  their  boats,  the  Dolphin  and 
Union. 

In  aseonding  the  Coppermine,  they  had  to  abandon 
lljcir  boats  and  carry  their  provisions  and  baggage. 

Having  passed  another  winter  at  Fort  Franklin,  as 
soon  as  the  season  broke  up  the  Canadians  were  dis- 
missed, Jind  the  party  returned  to  England. 

The  cold  experienced  in  the  last  winter  was  intense, 
the  thermometer  standing  at  one  time  at  58°  below  zero^ 
but  having  now  plenty  of  food,  a  weather-tight  dwell- 
ing, and  good  liealth,  they  passed  it  cheei-fully.  Dr. 
Richardson  gave  a  course  of  lectures  on  practical  geol- 
ogy, and  Mr.  Drummond  funiished  information  on  natu- 
ral history.  During  the  winter,  in  a  solitary  hut  on  tho 
Rocky  mountains,  lie  managed  to  collect  200  specimens 
of  birds,  animals,  &c.,  and  more  than  1500  of  plants. 


-fr 


m 


- 1' 


140 


PKOGUKSS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVEUV. 


When  Captain  Fniiiklin  Iclt  England  to  proceed  on 
this  exj)editioii  lie  liad  to  under»^o  u  bcvcro  Btrugglo 
])etwcen  his  feelin<^8  of  ntrection  and  a  sense  of  duty. 
His  wife  (ho  has  been  married  twice)  was  then  lying  at 
the  point  of  death,  and  indeed  died  the  day  after  ho 
loft  England.  But  with  heroic  fortitude  she  urged  liis 
departure  at  the  very  day  appointed,  entreating  hini, 
as  ho  valued  her  peace  and  his  own  glory,  not  to  delay 
a  moment  on  her  account.  His  feelings,  therefore,  nuvy 
be  inferred,  but  not  described,  when  lie  had  to  elevate 
on  Garry  Island  a  silk  flag,  which  she  had  made  and 
iven  him  as  a  parting  gift,  with  the  instruction  that 
e  was  only  to  hoist  it  on  reaching  the  Polar  Sea. 


t 


Beeciiey's  Voyage. — 1820-28. 


«• 


H.  M.  SLOOP  Blossom,  26,  Captain  F.  "W".  Beechey, 
sailed  from  Spithead  on  the  19th  of  May,  1825,  and 
her  instructions  directed  her,  after  surveying  some  of 
the  islands  in  the  Pacific,  to  be  in  Behring's  Straits  by 
the  summer  or  autumn  of  1826,  and  contingently  in  that 
of  1827. 

It  is  foreign  to  my  purpose  here  to  allude  to  those 
parts  of  her  voyage  anterior  to  her  arrival  in  the  Straits. 

On  the  2Sth  of  June  the  Blossom  came  to  an  anchor 
off  the  town  of  Petropolowski,  where  she  fell  in  with 
the  Russian  ship  of  war  Modesto,  under  the  commano 
of  Baron  Wrangel,  so  well  known  for  his  enterprise  i& 
the  hazardous  expedition  by  sledges  over  the  ice  to  th^ 
northward  of  Cape  Shelatskoi,  or  Errinos. 

Captain  Beechey  here  found  dispatches  informin][" 
him  of  the  return  of  Parry's  expedition.  Being  bese.*> 
by  currents  and  other  difliculties,  it  was  not  till  the  5tb 
of  July  that  the  Blossom  got  clear  of  the  harbor,  and 
made  the  best  of  her  way  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  reachinn 
the  appointed  rendezvous  at  Chamiso  Island  on  the  2oth. 
After  landing  and  burying  a  barrel  of  flour  ujDon  Puffin 
Bock,  the  most  unfrequented  spot  about  the  island,  tho 
Blossom  occupied  the  time  in  surveying  and  examining 


71°  23 


BEBCIIEY  B  VOYAGE. 


Ul 


tlic  ncifflihorin^  coasts  to  the  northeast.  On  the  30th 
Bhe  took  licr  (Ji'parture  from  the  islund,  erecting  posts 
or  hind-inarkH,  tiiid  burying  dinpatohcs  at  Capo  Ivriiseii- 
Htern,  near  a  cape  which  ho  named  alter  Franklin,  near 
Icy  Cape. 

The  fillip  returned  to  the  rendezvous  on  the  evening 
of  the  28th  of  August.  The  barrel  of  flour  had  been 
dug  up  and  approj)riated  by  the  natives. 

()n  tlie  first  visit  of  one  of  these  parties,  they  con- 
structed a  chart  of  the  coast  upon  the  sand,  of  which, 
however,  Captain  Beechey  at  first  took  very  little  notice. 
"  They,  however,  renewed  their  labor,  and  performed 
their  work  upon  the  sandy  beach  in  a  very  ingenious  and 
intelligible  manner.  The  coast  line  was  first  marked 
out  with  a  stick,  and  the  distances  regulated  by  the 
day's  journey.  The  hills  and  ranges  of  mountains  were 
next  shown  by  elevations  of  sand  or  stone,  and  the 
islands  represented  by  heaps  of  pebbles,  their  propor- 
tions being  duly  attended  to.  As  the  work  proceeded, 
some  of  the  bystanders  occasionally  suggested  altera- 
tions, and  Captain  Beechey  moved  one  of  the  Diomedo 
Islands,  whicli  was  misplaced.  This  was  at  first  ob- 
jected to  by  the  hydrographer,  but  one  of  the  party 
recollecting  that  the  islands  were  seen  in  one  from  Capo 
Prince  of  Wales,  confirmed  its  new  position  and  made 
the  mistake  quite  evident  to  the  others,  who  were  much 
surprised  that  Captain  Beechey  should  have  any  knowl- 
edge of  the  subject.  When  the  mountains  and  islands 
were  erected,  the  villages  and  fishing-stations  were 
marked  by  a  number  of  sticks  placed  upright,  in  imita- 
tion of  those  which  are  put  up  on  the  coast  wherever 
these  people  fix  their  abode.  In  time,  a  complete  hy- 
drographical  plan  was  drawn  from  Cape  Derby  to  Capo 
Krusenstem. 

This  ingenuity  and  accuracy  of  description  on  the 
part  of  the  Esquimaux  is  worthy  of  particular  remark, 
and  has  been  verified  by  almost  all  the  Arctic  explorers. 

The  barge  which  had  been  dispatched  to  the  east- 
ward, under  charge  of  Mr.  Elson,  reached  to  latitude 
n°  23'  31"  N.,  and  longitude  156°  21'  31"  W.,  where 


111 


* 


142 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTTIC  DISCOVERT. 


she  was  stopped  by  the  ice  which  was  attached  to  the 
shore.  The  farthest  tongue  of  land  they  reached  was 
named  Point  Barrow,  and  is  about  126  miles  northeast 
of  Icy  Cape,  being  only  about  160  or  160  miles  from 
Franklin's  discoveries  west  of  the  Mackenzie  river. 

The  wind  suddenly 'changing  to  southwest,  the  com- 
pact body  of  ice  began  to  drift  with  the  current  to  the 
northeast  at  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour, 
and  Mr.  Elson,  finding  it  difficult  to  avoid  large  floating 
masses  of  ice,  was  obliged  to  come  to  an  anchor  to  pre- 
vent being  driven  back.  "  It  was  not  long  before  he  was 
so  closely  beset  in  the  ice,  that  no  clear  water  could 
be  seen  in  any  direction  from  the  hills,  and  the  ice 
continuing  to  press  against  the  shore,  his  vessel  was 
driven  upon  the  beach,  and  there  left  upon  her  broad- 
side in  a  most  helpless  condition ;  and  to  add  to  his 
cheerless  prospect,  the  disposition  of  the  natives,  whom 
he  found  to  increase  in  numbers  as  he  advanced  to  the 
northward,  was  of  a  very  doubtfdl  character.  At  Point 
Barrow,  where  they  were  very  numerous,  their  over- 
bearing behavior,  and  the  thefts  they  openly  prac- 
ticed, left  no  doubt  of  what  would  be  the  fate  of  his 
little  crew,  in  the  event  of  their  falling  into  their 
power.  They  were  in  this  dilemma  several  days,  dur- 
mg  which  every  endeavor  was  made  to  extricate  the 
vessel  but  without  effect,  and  Mr.  Elson  contemplated 
sinking  her  secretly  in  a  lake  that  was  near,  to  prevent 
her  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  then 
making  his  wav  along  the  coast  in  a  baidar,  which  he 
had  no  doubt  he  should  be  able  to  purchase  from  the 
natives.  At  length,  however,  a  change  of  wind  loos- 
ened tlie  ice,  and  after  considerable  labor  and  trial,  in 
which  the  personal  strength  of  the  officers  was  united 
to  that  of  the  seamen,  Mr.  Elson,  with  his  shipmates, 
fortunately  succeeded  in  effecting  their  escape. 

Captain  Beechey  was  very  anxious  to  remain  in 
Kotzebue  Sound  until  the  end  of  October,  tbe  period 
named  in  his  instructions,  but  the  rapid  approach  of 
winter,  the  danger  of  being  locked  up,  having  only 
fixr^  «r««i,«j  provisions  left,  and  the  nearest  point  at 


five  weeks' 


.■7 


beecjhey's  voyage. 


143 


which  he  could  replenish  being  some  2000  miles  dis- 
tant, induced  his  officers  to  concur  with  him  in  the 
necessity  of  leaving  at  once.  A  barrel  of  flour  and 
other  articles  were  buried  on  the  sandy  point  of  Cha- 
miso,  for  Franklin,  which  it  was  hoped  would  escape 
the  prying  eyes  of  the  natives. 

After  a  cruise  to  California,  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
Loochoo,  the  Bonin  Islands,  &c.,  the  Blossom  returned 
to  Chamiso  Island  on  the  6th  of  July,  1827.  They 
found  the  flour  and  dispatches  they  had  left  the  pre- 
vious year  unmolested.  Lieut.  Belcher  was  dispatched 
in  the  barge  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  north  ward, -and 
the  sliip  followed  her  as  soon  as  the  wind  permitted. 
On  the  9th  of  .September,  when  standing  in  for  the 
northern  shore  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  the  ship  drifting 
witli  the  current  took  the  ground  on  a  sand-bank  near 
Ilotham  Inlet,  but  the  wind  moderating,  as  the  tide 
rose  she  went  ofl'  the  shoal  apparently  without  injury. 

After  this  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck  they  beat 
up  to  Chamiso  Island,  which  they  reached  on  the  10th 
of  September.  Not  finding  the  barge  returned  as  ex- 
pected, the  coast  was  scanned,  and  a  signal  of  distress 
found  flying  on  the  southwest  point  of  Choris  Pen- 
insula, and  two  men  waving  a  white  cloth  to  attract 
notice.  On  landing,  it  was  found  that  this  party  were 
the  crew  of  the  barge,  which  had  been  wrecked  in  Kot- 
zebue Sound,  and  three  of  the  men  were  also  lost. 

On  the  29th  a  collision  took  place  with  the  natives, 
which  resulted  in  three  of  the  seamen  and  four  of  the 
marines  being  wounded  by  arrows,  and  one  of  the  na- 
tives killed  by  the  return  fire. 

After  leaving  advices  for  Franklin,  as  before,  the 
Blossom  finally  left  Chamiso  on  the  6th  of  October. 
In  a  haze  and  strong  wind  she  ran  between  the  land 
and  a  shoal,  and  a  passage  had  to  be  forced  through 
breakers  at  the  imminent  danger  of  the  ship's  striking. 
The  Blossom  then  made  the  best  of  her  way  home, 
reaching  England  in  the  first  week  of  October,  1828. 


i,:i;:i 


lU 


PE0GEES8  OP  AECfnO   DISCOYERY. 


*        Parry's  Fourth,  or  Polar  Yoyage,  1827. 

In  1826,  Capt.  Pany,  who  had  only  returned  from 
his  last  voyage  in  the  close  of  the  preceding  year,  was 
much  struck  by  the  suggestions  of  Mr.  Scoresby,  in  a 
paper  read  before  the  Wernerian  Society,  in  which  he 
sketched  out  a  plan  for  reaching  the  highest  latitudes 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  north  of  Spitzbergen,  by  means  of 
sledge  boats  drawn  over  the  smooth  fields  of  ice  which 
were  known  to  prevail  in  those  regions.  Col.  Beau- 
foy,  F.  11.  S.,  had  also  suggested  this  idea  some  years 
previously.  Comparing  these  with  a  similar  plan  orig- 
inally proposed  by  Captain  Franklin,  and  which  was 
placed  in  his  hands  by  Mr.  Barrow,  the  Secretary  of 
the  Admiralty,  Capt.  Parry  laid  his  modified  views  of 
the  feasibility  of  the  project,  and  his  willingness  to  un- 
dertake it,  before  Lord  Melville,  the  First  Lord  of  the 
Admiralty,  who,  after  consulting  with  the  President 
and  Council  of  the  Eoyal  Society,  was  pleased  to  sanc- 
tion the  attempt ;  accordingly,  his  old  ship,  the  Hecla, 
was  fitted  out  for  tlie  voyage  to  Spitzbergen,  the  fol- 
lowing oflScers,  (all  of  whom  had  been  with  Parry  be- 
fore,) and  crew  being  appointed  to  her :  — 

Hecla, 

Captain — "W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  J.  C.  Ross,  Henry  Foster,  E.  J.  Bird, 

F.  R.  M.  Crozier. 
Purser  —  James  Halse. 
Surgeon  —  C.J.Beverley. 

On  the  4th  of  April,  1827,  the  outfit  and  prepara- 
tions being  completed,  the  Hecla  left  the  Nore  for  the 
coast  of  Norway,  touching  at  Hammerfest,  to  embark 
eight  reindeer,  and  some  moss  {CenomyGe  rangiferiha) 
sufficient  for  their  support,  tlie  consumption  being 
about  4  lbs.  ])er  day,  but  they  can  go  without  food  for 
several  days.  A  treineiidous  gale  of  wind,  experienced 
off  Haklnyt's  TTeadland,  and  the  quantity  of  ice  with 
which  tlio  phi))  was  in  coTiscMpicnce  be^et,  detained  the 
voyagers  for  i. early  a  month,  but  on  the  ISth  of  June, 


h_ 


jl^, 


parky's  fourth  voyage. 


145 


a  southerly  wind  dis|>ersing  the  ice,  they  dropped 
anchor  in  a  cove,  on  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergcii, 
which  appeared  to  offer  a  secure  haven,  and  to  which 
the  name  of  the  ship  was  given.  On  the  20th,  the 
boats,  which  had  been  especially  prepared  in  England 
for  this  kind  of  journey,  were  got  out  and  made  ready, 
and  they  left  the  ship  on  the  22d  of  June.  A  descrip- 
tion of  these  boats  may  not  here  be  out  of  jjlace. 

They  were  twenty  feet  long  and  seven  broad,  flat 
floored,  like  ferry  boats,  strengthened  and  made  elas- 
tic by  sheets  of  felt  between  the  planking,  covered 
with  water-proof  canvass.  A  runner  attached  to  each 
side  of  the  keel,  adapted  them  for  easy  draught  on  the 
ice  after  the  manner  of  a  sledge.  They  were  also  fit- 
ted with  wheels,  to  be  used  if  deemed  expedient  and 
useful.  Two  officers  and  twelve  men  were  attached 
to  each  boat,  and  they  were  named  the  Enterprise  and 
Endeavor.  The  weight  of  each  boat,  including  pro- 
visions and  every  requisite,  was  about  3780  lbs.  Lieuts. 
Crozier  and  Foster  were  left  on  board,  and  Capt.  Parry 
took  with  him  in  his  boat  Mr.  Beverley,  Surgeon,  while 
Lieut,  (now  Capt.  Sir  James)  Eoss,  and  Lieut,  (now 
Commander)  Bird,  had  charge  of  the  other. 

The  reindeer  and  the  wheels  were  given  up  as  use- 
less, owing  to  the  rough  nature  of  the  ice.  Provisions 
for  seventy-one  days  were  taken  —  the  daily  allowance 
per  man  on  the  journey  being  10  ozs.  biscuit,  9  ozs. 
pemmican,  1  oz.  sweetened  cocoa  powder  (being 
enough  to  make  a  pint,)  and  one  gill  of  rum ;  but 
scanty  provision  in  such  a  climate,  for  men  employed 
on  severe  labor ;  three  ounces  of  tobacco  were  also 
served  out  to  each  per  week. 

As  fuel  was  too  bulky  to  transport,  spirits  of  wino 
were  consumed,  which  answered  all  the  purposes  re- 
quired, a  pint  twice  a  day  being  found  sufficient  to 
warm  each  vessel,  when  applied  to  an  iron  boiler  by  a 
shallow  lamp  with  seven  wicks.  After  floating  the 
boats  for  about  eighty  miles,  they  came  to  an  unpleas- 
ant mixed  surface  of  ice  and  water,  where  their  toilsome 
journey  commenced,  the  boats  having  to  be  laden  and 


Lis 

I-Tf 


i 


!>:- 


146 


rEOQEESS  OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVEEY. 


unladen  several  times  according  as  they  came  to  floes 
of  ice  or  lanes  of  water,  and  they  were  drifted  to  the 
southward  by  the  ice  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  miles  a 
day.  Parry  found  it  more  advantageous  to  travel  by 
night,  the  snow  being  then  harder,  and  the  inconven- 
ience of  snow  blindness  being  avoided,  while  the  party 
enjoyed  greater  warmth  during  the  period  of  rest,  and 
had  better  opportunities  of  drying  their  clothes  by  the 
sun. 

I  cannot  .do  better  than  quote  Parry's  graphic  de- 
scription of  this  novel  course  of  proceeding :  "  Travel- 
ing by  night,  and  sleeping  by  day,  so  completely  in- 
verted the  natural  order  of  things  that  it  was  difficult 
to  persuade  ourselves  of  the  reality.  Even  the  officers 
and  myself,  who  were  all  furnished  with  pocket  chro- 
nometers, could  not  always  bear  in  mind  at  what  part 
of  the  twenty-hours  we  had  arrived ;  and  there  were 
several  of  the  men  who  declared,  and  I  believe  truly, 
that  they  never  knew  night  fi*om  day  during  the  whole 
excursion. 

"  When  we  rose  in  the  evening,  we  commenced  our 
day  by  prayers,  after  which  we  took  off  our  fur  sleep- 
ing-dresses and  put  on  clothes  for  traveling ;  the  former 
being  made  of  camlet  lined  with  raccoon  skin,  and  the 
latter  of  strong  blue  cloth.  "We  made  a  point  of  al- 
ways putting  on  the  same  stockings  ana  boots  for 
traveling  in,  whether  they  had  been  dried  during  the 
day  or  not,  and  I  believe  it  was  only  in  five  or  six  in- 
stances at  the  most  that  they  were  not  either  still  wet 
or  hard  frozen.  This  indeed  was  of  no  consequence, 
beyond  the  discomfort  of  first  putting  them  on  in  this 
state,  as  they  were  sure  to  be  thoroughly  wet  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  after  commencing  our  journey ; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  it  was  of  vital  importance 
to  keep  dry  things  for  sleeping  in.  Being  '  rigged ' 
for  traveling,  we  breakfasted  upon  warm  cocoa  and 
biscuit,  and  after  stowing  the  things  in  the  boats,  and 
on  the  sledges,  so  as  to  secure  them  as  much  as  pos- 
sible from  wet,  we  set  off  on  our  day's  journey,  and 
usually  traveled  four,  five,  or  even  six  hours,  accord- 
ing to  circumstances." 


PAERY'S  FOURTH  VOYAGE. 


147 


In  five  days,  notwithstanding  their  perseverance 
and  continued  journeys,  they  found,  by  observation  at 
noon,  on  the  30th,  that  they  had  only  made  eight  miles 
of  direct  northing. 

At  Walden  Island,  one  of  the  Seven  Islands,  and 
Little  Table  Island,  reserve  supplies  of  provisions  were 
deposited  to  fall  back  upon  in  case  of  necessity. 

In  halting  early  in  the  morning  for  the  purposes  of 
rest,  the  boats  were  hauled  up  on  the  largest  piece  of 
ice  that  offered  the  least  chance  of  brealang  through, 
or  of  coming  in  contact  with  other  masses,  the  snow  or 
wet  was  cleaned  out  and  the  sails  rigged  as  awnings. 
*'  Every  man  then  immediately  put  on  dry  stockings 
and  fur  boots,  after  which  we  set  about  the  necessary 
repairs  of  boats,  sledges,  or  clothes,  and  after  serving 
the  provisions  for  the  succeeding  day,  we  went  to  sup- 
per. Most  of  the  officers  and  men  then  smoked  their 
pipes,  which  served  to  dry  the  boats  and  awnings  very 
much,  and  usually  raised  the  temperature  of  our  lodg- 
ings 10°  or  16°.  This  part  of  the  twenty-four  hours 
was  often  a  time,  and  the  only  one,  of  real  enjoyment 
to  us  ;  the  men  told  their  stories,  and  fought  all  their 
battles  o'er  again,  and  the  labors  of  the  day,  unsuccess- 
ful as  they  too  often  were,  were  forgotten.  A  regular 
wateh  was  set  during  our  resting  time,  to  look  out  for 
bears,  or  for  the  ice  oreaking  up  round  us,  as  well  as 
to  attend  to  the  drying  of  the  clothes,  each  man  alter- 
nately taking  this  duty  for  one  hour.  We  then  con- 
cluded our  day  with  prayers,  and  having  put  on  our 
fur  dresses,  lay  down  to  sleep  with  a  degree  of  comfort 
which  perhaps  few  persons  would  imagine  possible  un- 
d-^r  such  circumstances,  our  chief  inconvenience  being, 
that  we  were  somewhat  pinched  for  room,  and  there- 
fore obliged  to  stow  rather  closer  than  was  quite  agree- 
able." 

This  close  stowage  may  be  imagined  when  it  is  re- 
membered that  thirteen  persons  had  to  sleep  in  a  boat 
seven  feet  broad.  After  sleeping  about  seven  hours, 
they  were  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  sound  of 
a  bugle  from  the  cook  and  watchman,  which  announced 


•; 


1^8 


ritOGKESS   OF  AUCnC   DISCOVEKY. 


that  their  cocoa  was  smoking  hot,  and  invited  them  to 
breakfast. 

Their  progress  was  of  the  most  tedious  and  toilsome 
character,  heavy  showers  of  rain  rendering  the  ice  on 
many  occasions  a  mass  of  "  slush  ;"  on  others  there  was 
from  six  to  eighteen  inches  of  snow  lying  on  the  sur- 
face. Frequently  the  crew  had  to  proceed  on  their 
hands  and  knees  to  secure  a  footing,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion they  made  such  a  snail-like  progress  that  in  two 
hours  they  only  accomplished  150  yards.  On  the  12th 
of  Jul^,  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  82°  14'  28". 
After  live  hours'  unceasing  labor  on  the  14th,  the  pro- 
gress was  but  a  mile  and  a  half  due  north,  though 
from  three  to  four  miles  had  been  traversed,  and  ten  at 
least  walked,  having  made  three  journeys  a  great  part 
of  the  way  ;  launched  and  hauled  up  the  boats  four 
times,  and  dragged  them  over  twenty-five  separate 
pieces  of  ice.  On  the  18th,  after  eleven  hours  of  ac- 
tual labor,  requiring  for  the  most  part  the  exertion  of 
the  whole  strength  of  the  party,  they  had  traveled  over 
a  space  not  exceeding  four  iniles,  of  which  only  two 
were  made  good. 

But  on  halting  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  having 
by  his  reckoning  accomplished  six  and  a  half  miles  in 
a  N.  N.  W.  direction,  the  distance  traversed  being  ten 
miles  and  a  half,  Parry  found  to  his  mortification  from 
observation  at  noon,  that  they  were  not  five  miles  to 
the  northward  of  their  place  at  noon  on  the  17th, 
although  they  had  certainly  traveled  twelve  miles  in 
that  direction  since  then. 

On  the  21st,  a  floe  of  ice  on  which  they  had  lodged 
the  boats  and  sledges,  broke  with  their  weight,  and  all 
went  through  with  several  of  the  crew,  who,  with  the 
sledges  were  providentially  saved. 

On  the  23d,  the  farthest  northerly  point  was  reached, 
which  was  about  82°  45'. 

At  noon  on  the  26th,  the  weather  being  clear,  the 
meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  was  obtained,  "  by  which," 
says  Parry, "  we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  82°  40'  23", 
80  that  since  our  last  observation  (at  midnight  on  the 


PARKY*8   FOURTH   VOYAGE. 


149 


\  iJ(l,)  we  had  lost  l)y  drift  no  less  than  thirteen  and  a 
half  miles,  for  we  were  now  more  than  three  miles  to  the 
southward  of  that  observation,  though  we  had  certainly- 
traveled  between  ten  and  eleven,  due  north  in  this 
interval !  Again,  we  were  but  one  mile  to  the  north 
of  our  place  at  noon  on  the  21st,  though  wo  had  esti- 
n!ated  our  distance  ma'^'"  ^ood  at  twenty-three  miles." 
After  encountering  eve.;,  species  of  fetigue  and  dis- 
heartening obstacles,  in  peril  of  their  lives  almost  every 
hour,  Parry  now  became  convinced  that  it  was  hope- 
Iws  to  pursue  the  journey  any  further,  and  he  could 
not  even  reach  the  eighty-third  parallel ;  for  after  thir- 
ty-five days  of  continuous  and  most  fatiguing  drudgery, 
Wkth  half  their  resources  exipended,  and  the  middle  of 
the  season  arrived,  he  found  that  the  distance  gained 
in  their  laborious  traveling  was  lost  by  the  drift  and 
eeri  of  the  ice  with  the  southerly  current,  during  the 
p^riod  of  rest.  After  planting  their  ensigns  and  pen- 
nants on  the  26th,  and  making  it  a  day  of  rest,  on  the 
21^  eh,  the  return  to  the  southward  was  commenced. 
Nt 'thing  particular  occurred.  Lieutenant  Ross  man- 
ag  3d  to  bring  down  with  his  gun  a  fat  she  bear,  which 
caine  to  have  a  look  at  the  boats,  and  after  gormandiz- 
in*f  on  its  flesh,  an  excess  which  may  be  excused  consid- 
eriig  it  was  the  first  fi'esh  meat  they  had  tasted  for 
ma  ly  a  day,  some  symptoms  of  indigestion  manifested 
the  TQselves  among  the  party. 

( »n  the  outward  journey  very  little  of  animal  life 
wai  seen.  A  passing  gull,  a  soutary  rotge,  two  seals, 
and  a  couple  of  flies,  were  all  that  their  eager  eyes 
covit  I  detect.  But  on  their  return,  these  became  more 
nun.  erous.  On  the  8th  of  August,  seven  or  eight  nar- 
wha  6  were  seen,  and  not  less  than  200  rotges,  a  flock 
of  tl  ese  little  birds  occurring  in  ievery  hole  of  water. 
On  I  he  11th,  in  latitude  81°  80',  the  sea  was  found 
crowded  with  shrimps  and  other  sea  insects,  on  which 
numerous  birds  were  feeding.  On  this  day  they  took 
their  last  meal  on  the  ice,  being  fifty  miles  distant  from 
Table  Island,  having  accomplished  in  fifteen  days  what 
had  t^ken  them  thirty-three  to  effect  on  their  outward 

7 


•i 


- 1 


150 


PBOaBESS  OF  AAOnO  DISOOTEKY. 


journey.  On  the  12th,  they  arrived  at  this  island.  The 
bears  had  walked  off  with  the  relay  of  bread  which 
had  been  deposited  there.  To  an.  inlet  lying  off  Table 
Island,  and  the  mosw  northern  known  land  upon  the 
globe,  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Ross,  for  "  no  individ- 
ual," he  observes,  "  could  have  exerted  himself  more 
strenuously  to  rob  it  of  this  distinction." 

Putting  to  sea  again,  a  storm  obliged  the  boats  to 
bear  up  for  Walden  Island.  "  Every  thing  belomging  fb 
us  (says  Captain  Parry)  was  now  completely  drenched 
by  the  spray  and  snow ;  we  had  been  fifty-six  hours 
without  rest,  and  forty-eight  at  work  in  the  boats,  so 
that  by'  the  time  they  were  unloaded  we  had  barely 
strength  left  to  haul  them  up  on  the  rocks.  However, 
by  dint  of  great  exertion,  we  managed  to  get  the  boats 
above  the  surf ;  after  which  a  hot  supper,  a  blazing 
fire  of  drift  wood,  and  a  tew  hours  quiet  rest,  restored 
us." 

They  finally  reached  the  ship  on  the  2lBt  of  August, 
after  sixty -one  days'  absence. 

^^  The  distance  traversed  during  this  excursion  was 
669  geographical  miles ;  but  allowing  for  the  times  we 
had  to  return  for  our  baggage,  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  journey  over  the  ice,  we  estimated  our  actual 
traveling  at  978  geographical,  or  1127  statute  miles. 
Considering  our  constant  exposure  to  wet,  cold,  and 
fatigue,  our  stockings  having  generally  been  drenched 
in  snow-water  for  twelve  hours  out  of  every  twenty- 
four,  I  had  great  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  excellent 
health  in  which,  upon  the  whole,  we  reached  the  ship. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  we  had  all  become  in  a  certain 
degree  gradually  weaker  for  some  time  past ;  but  only 
three  men  of  our  party  now  required  medical  care  — 
two  of  them  with  badly  swelled  legs  and  general  de 
Klity,  and  the  other  from  a  bruise,  but  even  these  three 
returned  to  their  duty  in  a  short  time." 

In  a  letter  from  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  to  Sir  John  Barrow, 
dated  November  26, 1846,  he  thus  suggests  some  im- 
provements on  his  old  plan  of  proceadmgs  : — 

^'  It  is  evident  (he  says)  that  the  caiues  of  failure  in 


PARUY  8   FoUinn   VOYAGE. 


161 


our  former  attempt,  iii  the  year  1827,  were  principally 
two  :  first,  and  chiefly,  the  broken,  rugged,  and  soft 
state  of  the  ice  over  wliich  we  traveled  ;  and  secondly, 
the  drifting  of  the  whole  body  of  ice  in  a  southerly 
direction. 

"  My  amended  plan  is,  to  go  out  with  a  single  ship 
to  Spitzbergen,  just  as  we  did  in  the  Hecla,  but  not  so 
early  in  the  season ;  the  object  for  that  year  being 
merely  to  find  secure  winter  quarters  as  far  north  as 
possible.  For  this  puipose  it  would  only  be  u<  ressary 
to  reach  Hakluyt's  Headland  by  the  end  o  June, 
which  would  anord  ample  leisure  for  exaniiiiiH2:  t^  o 
more  northern  lands,  especially  about  the  Seven  Ishuuls, 
where,  in  all  probability,  a  secure  nook  might  be  Jbnnd 
for  the  ship,  and  a  starting  point  for  the  proposed  ex- 
pedition, some  forty  or  mty  miles  in  advance  of  tho 
point  where  the  Hecla  was  before  laid  up.  The  w^inter 
might  be  usefully  employed  in  various  preparations  for 
the  journey,  as  well  as  in  magnetic,  astronomical,  and 
meteorological  observations,  of  high  interest  in  that 
latitude,  i  propose  that  the  expedition  should  leave 
the  ship  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  April,  when  tho 
ice  would  present  one  hard  and  unbroken  surface,  over 
which,  as  I  confidently  believe,  it  would  not  be  difficult 
to  make  good  thirty  miles  per  day,  without  any  expo- 
sure to  wet,  and  probably  without  snow  blindness.  At 
this  season,  too,  the  ice  would  probably  be  stationary, 
and  thus  the  two  gi'eat  difficulties  which  we  formerly 
had  to  encounter  would  be  entirely  obviated.  It  might 
form  a  part  of  the  plan  to  push  out  supplies  previously, 
to  the  distance  of  100  miles,  to  be  taken  up  on  the 
way,  so  as  to  commence  the  journey  comparatively 
light ;  and  as  the  intention  would  be  to  complete  the 
enterprise  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  May,  before 
any  disruption  of  the  ice,  or  any  material  softening  of 
the  surface  had  taken  place,  similar  supplies  might  be 
sent  out  to  the  same  distance,  to  meet  the  party  on 
their  return." 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  last  work,  com- 
menting on  this,  says,  "  With  all  deference  to  so  dis- 


162 


PliCOKEeS   OF  AHOTIO  DISCOVERY. 


tinguished  a  sea  officer,  in  possesRion  of  bo  ranch  expe- 
rience as  Sir  Edward  Parry,  there  are  others  who 
express  dislike  of  such  a  plan  ;  and  it  is  not  improba- 
ble that  many  will  be  disposed  to  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion, that  so  long  as  the  Greenland  Seas  are  hampered 
with  ice,  so  long  as  floes,  and  hummocks,  and  heavy- 
masses,  continue  to  be  formed,  so  long  as  a  determined 
southerly  current  prevails,  so  long  will  any  attempt  to 
carry  out  the  plan  m  question,  in  nke  manner  fail.  No 
laborious  drudgery  will  ever  be  able  to  conquer  the 
opposing  progress  of  the  current  and  the  ice.  Besides, 
it  can  hardly  be  doubted,  this  gallant  officer  vlU  admit, 
on  further  consideration,  that  this  unusual  kind  of  dis- 
gusting and  unseamanlike  labor,  is  not  precisely  such 
as  would  be  relished  by  the  men  ;  and,  it  may  be  said, 
is  not  exactly  fitted  for  a  British  man-oi-war's-man ; 
moreover,  that  it  required  his  own  all-powerful  example 
to  make  it  even  tolerable."  Sir  Jonn  therefore  sug- 
gested a  somewhat  different  plan.  He  recommended 
that  two  small  ships  should  be  sent  in  the  early  spring 
along  the  western  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  where  usually 
no  impediment  exists,  as  far  up  as  80°.  They  should 
take  every  opportunity  of  proceeding  directly  to  the 
north,  where,  in  about  82°,  Parry  has  told  us  the  large 
floes  had  disappeared,  and  the  sea  was  found  to  be 
loaded  only  with  loose,  disconnected,  small  masses  of 
ice,  through  which  ships  would  find  no  difficulty  in 
Bailing,  though  totally  unfit  for  boats  dragging ;  and  as 
this  loose  ice  was  drifting  to  the  southward,  he  further 
eays,  that  before  the  middle  of  August  a  ship  might 
have  sailed  up  to  the  latitude  of  82°,  almost  without 
touching  a  piece  of  ice.  It  is  not  then  unreasonable  to 
expect  that  beyond  that  parallel,  even  as  far  as  the 
pole  itself,  the  sea  would  be  fi*ee  of  ice,  during  the  six 
eummer  months  of  perpetual  sun,  through  each  of  the 
twenty-four  hours  ;  which,  with  the  aid  of  the  current, 
would,  in  all  probability,  destroy  and  dissipate  the 
polar  ice. 

The  distance  from  Hakluyt's  Headland  to  the  polo 
is  600  geographical  miles.    Granting  the  ships  to  inako 


age 


J'.'l-.^c^^-^wH 


i'aery'b  fourth  voyage. 


153 


OT1I5  twenty  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  (on  the  euppo- 
eition  of  mueli  sailing  ice  to  go  through,)  even  in  that 
case  it  would  require  but  a  month  to  enable  the  ex- 
plorer to  put  his  foot  on  the  pivot  or  point  of  the  axis 
on  which  the  globe  of  the  earth  turns,  remain  there  a 
month,  if  necessary,  to  obtain  the  sought-for  informa- 
tion, and  then,  with  a  southerly  current,  a  fortnight, 
probably  less,  would  bring  him  back  to  Spitzbergen.  * 

In  a  notice  in  the  Quarterly  Review  of  this,  one  of 
the  most  singular  and  perilous  journeys  of  its  kind 
over  undertaken,  except  perhaps  that  of  Baron  Wran- 
gell  upon  a  similar  enterprise  to  the  northward  of  Behr- 
ing's  Straits,  it  is  observed, — "Let  any  one  conceive 
for  a  moment  the  situation  of  two  open  bouts,  laden 
with  seventy  days'  provisions  and  clotning  for  twenty- 
eight  men,  in  the  midst  of  a  sea  covered  nearly  with 
detached  masses  and  floes  of  ice,  over  which  these 
boats  were  to  be  dragged,  sometimes  up  one  side  of  a 
rugged  mass,  and  down  the  other,  sometimes  across  the 
lanes  of  water  that  separate  them,  frequently  over  a 
surface  covered  with  deep  snow,  or  through  pools  of 
water.  Let  him  bear  in  mind,  that  the  men  had  little 
or  no  chance  of  any  other  supply  of  provisions  than 
that  which  they  carried  with  tnem,  calculated  as  just 
sufficient  to  sustain  life,  and  consider  what  their  situa- 
tion would  have  been  in  the  event,  by  no  means  an 
improbable  one,  of  losing  any  part  of  their  scanty 
stock.  Let  any  one  try  to  imagine  to  himself  a  situa- 
tion of  this  kind,  and  he  will  still  have  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  exertions  which  the  men  under  Captain  Parry 
liad  to  make,  and  the  sufferings  and  privations  they 
had  to  undergo." 

Captain  Parry  having  thus  completed  his  fifth  voy- 
age into  the  arctic  regions,  in  four  of  which  he  com- 
manded, and  was  second  in  the  other,  it  may  here  be 
desirable  to  give  a  recapitulation  of  his  services. 

In  1818  he  was  appointed  Lieutenant,  commanding 
the  Alexander,  hired  ship,  as  second  officer  with  his 
uncle,  Commander  John  Koss.  In  1819,  still  as  Lieu- 
*  Barrow's  Voyages  of  Discovery,  p.  316.  ** 


154 


PROORESS  OF  ARCllC  DI8C0VKUY. 


tenant,  he  was  appointed  to  command  the  Ilccla,  and 
to  take  charge  of  toe  Bccond  arctic  expedition,  on  which 
service  he  was  employed  two  years.  On  the  14th  of 
November,  1820,  ne  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
Commander. 

On  the  19th  of  December,  1820,  the  Bedfordean 
Gold  Medal  of  the  Bath  and  Weat  of  England  Society 
for  the  Encouragement  of  Arts,  Manufactures,  and 
Commerce,  was  unanimously  voted  to  him.  On  the 
80th  of  December  of  that  year,  he  was  appointed  to 
the  Fury,  with  orders  to  take  command  of  the  expedi- 
tion to  the  Arctic  Sea.  With  the  sum  of  600  guineas, 
subscribed  for  the  purpose,  "  the  Explorer  of  the  Tolur 
Sea  "  was  afterward  presented  with  a  silver  vase, 
highly  embellished  with  devices  emblematic  of  tho 
arctic  voyages.  And  on  tho  24th  of  March,  1821,  tho 
city  of  Bath  presented  its  freedom  to  Captain  Puny,  in 
a  box  of  oak,  highly  and  appropriately  oruamonted. 
On  the  8th  of  November,  1821,  he  obtained  his  post- 
captain's  rank.  On  the  22d  of  November,  1823,  Jio 
was  presented  with  the  freedom  of  the  city  of  Win- 
chester ;  and,  on  the  1st  of  December,  was  appointed 
acting  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty  in  tho  placo  of 
Captain  Hind,  deceased.  In  1824  lie  was  appointed  to 
tho  Hecla,  to  proceed  on  another  exploring  voyage. 

On  the  22d  of  November,  1825,  Captain  Parry  was 
formally  appointed  hydrographer  to  tho  Admiralty, 
which  office  he  continued  to  hold  until  the  10th  of 
November,  1826. 

In  December,  1825,  he  was  voted  the  freedom  of  the 
borough  of  Lynn,  in  testimony  of  tho  hi«^li  S'^iico  ciiter- 
taincd  by  the  corporation  of  liis  meritorious  and  enter 
prising  conduct. 

In  April,  1827,  he  once  more  took  the  command  of 
his  old  ship,  the  Hecla,  for  another  voyarto  oi'  discovery 
toward  the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  in  tlio  close  of 
the  year,  having  paid  off  the  Hecla  at  Deptford,  he 
resumed,  on  the  2a  of  November,  hia  dutios  as  hydro- 
grapher to  the  Admiralty,  which  otHce  ho  held  until 
Sie  13th  of  May,  1829.    jiaving  received  the  Ivauor  of 


CAPTAIN    UOBB^B   BUOOND   VOYAOB. 


155 


knighthood,  ho  thon  rcRip^ncd  in  favor  of  the  present 
Admiral  Beaufort,  and,  ol)tainin^  perniiHsion  from  the 
Admiralty,  proceeded  to  Now  South  Wales  as  resident 
Commissioner  to  the  Australian  Agricultural  Com 
panjr,  taking  charge  of  their  recently  acquired  largo 
territory  in  tho  neighborhood  of  Port  Stephen,  lie 
returned  from  Australia  in  1834.  From  the  7th  of 
March,  1836,  to  the  3d  of  February,  1836,  he  acted  as 
Poor  Law  Commissionc'  in  Norfolk.  Early  in  1837, 
he  was  appointed  to  organize  the  Mail  Packet  Service, 
then  transferred  to  the  Adm'valt;*,  and  afterward,  in 
April,  was  appointed  Controller  -^f  steam  machinery  to 
the  Navy,  wnich  office  he  continued  to  -old  up  to  De- 
cember, 1846.  From  that  period  to  'Ic  present  time 
he  has  tilled  the  post  of  Captair  Supeiintendc  it  of  the 
RojoX  Navy  Hospital  at  Uasla;. 

Captain  John  Ross's  Second  Voyage,  1829-33. 

In  the  year  1829,  Capt.  Boss,  the  pioneer  of  arctic 
exploration  in  the  19th  century,  being  anxious  once 
more  to  display  his  zeal  and  enterprise  as  well  as  to 
retrieve  his  nautical  reputation  from  those  unfortunate 
blunders  and  mistakes  which  had  attached  to  his  first 
voyage,  and  thus  remove  the  cloud  which  had  for 
nearly  ten  years  huner  over  his  professional  character, 
endeavored  without  *'li' ct  to  induce  the  government 
to  send  him  out  to  the  Polar  Seas  in  charge  of  another 
expedition.  The  Board  of  Admiralty  of  that  day,  in 
the  spirit  of  retrenchment  which  pervaded  their  coun- 
cils, were,  hew  iver,  not  disposed  to  recommend  any 
further  grant  for  research,  even  the  Board  of  Longi- 
tude was  abolished,  and  the  boon  of  20,000^.  offered 
by  act  of  parliament  for  the  promotion  of  arctic  dis- 
covery, also  withdrawn  by  a  repeal  of  the  act. 

Captain  Ross,  however,  undaunted  by  the  chilling 
indifference  thus  manifestod  toward  his  proposiils  by 
the  Admiralty,  still  persevered,  having  devoted  30  JO^. 
out  of  his  own  funds  toward  the  prosecution  of  tho  ob- 
ject he  had  in  view.    He  was  iortunate  enough  to 


^ 

M 


:.«f: 


» 


156 


riiOOKKSS   UK    AKOTIC    DISCOVKKY. 


'^r 


meet  with  a  public-spirited  and  affluent  coadjutoi  And 
supporter  in  the  late  Sir  Felix  Booth,  the  eminen  dis- 
tiller, and  that  gentleman  nobly  contributed  IT^OOOZ. 
toward  the  expenses.  Captain  Ross  thereupon  set  to 
work,  and  purchased  a  small  Liverpool  steamer  named 
the  Victory,  whose  tonnage  he  increased  to  150  tons. 
She  was  provisioned  for  three  years.  Captain  Ross 
chose  for  his  second  in  command  his  nephew.  Com- 
mander James  Ross,  who  had  been  with  him  on  his 
first  arctid  expedition,  and  had  subsequently  accompa- 
nied Parry  in  all  his  voyages.  The  other  omcers  of  the 
vessel  were  —  Mr.  William  Thom,  purser  ;  Mr.  George 
M'Diarmid,  surgeon ;  Thomas  Blanky,Thos.  Abernethy, 
and  George  Taylor,  as  1st,  2d,  and  3d,  mates  ;  Alex- 
ander Brunton  and  Allen  Macinnes  as  1st  and  2d  engi- 
neers ;  and  nineteen  petty  officers  and  seamen  ;  making 
a  complement  in  all  of  28  men. 

The  Admiralty  furnished  toward  the  purposes  of  the 
expedition  a  decked  boat  of  sixteen  tons,  called  the 
ILrusenstern,  and  two  boats  which  had  been  used  by 
Franklin,  with  a  stock  of  books  and  instruments. 

The  vessel  being  reported  ready  for  sea  was  visited 
and  examined  by  the  late  King  of  the  French,  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty,  and  other  parties  taking  an 
interest  in  the  expedition,  and  set  sail  from  Woolwich 
on  the  23d  of  May,  1S29.  For  all  practical  purposes 
the  steam  machinery,  on  which  the  commander  had 
greatly  relied,  was  found  on  trial  utterly  useless. 

Having  received  much  damage  to  her  spars,  in  a 
severe  g&,  the  ship  put  in  to  the  Danish  settlement  of 
Holsteinberg,  on  the  Greenland  coast,  to  refit,  and 
sailed  again  to  the  northward  on  the  26th  of  June. 
They  found  a  clear  sea,  and  even  in  the  middle  of  Lan- 
caster Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait  perceived  no  traces 
of  ice  or  snow,  except  what  appeared  on  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  some  of  the  mountains.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  40°,  and  the  weather  was  so  mild  that  the  officers 
dined  in  the  cabin  without  a  fire,  with  the  skylight 
partially  open.  On  the  10th  of  August  they  passed 
Cape  York,  and  thence  crossed  over  into  Regent  Inl#  ^ 


CAPTAIN  K08SS  SIXJOND  VOYAGE. 


157 


making  the  western  coast  between  Sepping's  and  Elwin 
13ay  on  the  16th. 

They  here  fell  in  with  those  formidable  streams, 
packs,  and  floating  bergs  of  ice  which  had  uftered  siicli 
obstructions  to  Parry's  ships.  From  their  proximity  to 
the  magnetic  pole,  their  compasses  became  useless  as 
they  proceeded  southward.  On  the  13th  they  reached 
the  spot  where  the  Fury  was  abandoned,  but  no  rem- 
nants of  the  vessel  were  to  be  seen.  All  her  sails, 
stores,  and  provisions,  on  land,  were,  however,  found  ; 
the  hermetically-sealed  tin  canisters  having  kept  the 
provisions  from  the  attacks  of  bears ;  and  the  flour, 
bread,  wine,  spirits,  sugar,  &c.,  proved  as  good,  after 
being  here  four  years,  as  on  the  first  day  they  were 
packed.  This  store  formed  a  very  seasonable  addition, 
which  was  freely  made  available,  and  after  increasing 
their  stock  to  two  years  and  ten  months'  supply,  they 
still  left  a  large  quantity  for  the  wants  of  any  future 
explorers.  On  the  15th,  crossing  Cresswell  Bay,  they* 
reached  Cape  Garry,  the  farthest  point  which  had  been 
seen  by  Parry.  They  were  here  much  inconvenienced 
and  delayed  by  fogs  and  floating  ice.  While  moun- 
tains of  ice  were  tossing  around  them  on  every  side, 
they  were  often  forced  to  seek  safety/  by  mooring  them- 
selves to  these  formidable  masses,  and  drifting  with 
them,  sometimes  forward,  sometimes  backward.  In  tliis 
manner  on  one  occasion  no  less  than  nineteen  miles 
were  lost  in  a  few  hours ;  at  other  times  they  under- 
went frequent  and  severe  shocks,  yet  escaped  any  seri- 
ous damage. 

Captain  Ross  draws  a  lively  picture  of  what  a  ves- 
sel endures  in  sailing  among  'these  moving  hills.  lie 
reminds  the  reader  that  ice  is  stone,  as  solid  as  if  it 
were  granite  ;  and  he  bids  him  "  imagine  these  moun- 
tains nurled  through  a  narrow  strait  by  a  rapid  tide, 
meeting  with  the  noise  of  thunder,  breaking  from  each 
other's  precipices  huge  fragments,  or  rending  each 
other  asunder,  till,  losing  their  former  equilibrium, 
they  fell  over  headlong,  lifting  the  sea  around  in  break- 
ers and  whirling  it  in  eddies.    There  is  not  a  moment 


158 


I'lJOOUESS   OF   ABCnO  DISCOVERY. 


in  which  it  can  be  conjectured  what  will  happen  m  tlo 
next ;  there  is  not  one  which  may  not  be  the  last.  Th»» 
attention  is  troubled  to  fix  on  any  things  amid  such  con 
fusion  ;  still  must  it  be  alive,  that  it  may  seize  on  th^ 
single  moment  of  help  or  escape  which  may  occur 
Yet  with  all  this,  and  it  is  the  hardest  task  of  all,  there 
is  nothing  to  be  acted, —  no  efibrt  to  be  made, —  ho 
must  be  patient,  as  if  he  were  unconcerned  or  careless, 
waiting,  as  he  best  can,  for  the  fate,  be  it  what  it  may, 
which  ne  cannot  influence  or  avoid." 

Proceeding  southward,  Ross  found  Brentford  Bay, 
about  thirty  miles  beyond  Cape  Garry,  to  be  of  consid- 
erable extent,  with  some  fine  harbors.  Landing  here, 
the  British  colors  were  unfurled,  and  the  coast,  named 
after  the  promoter  of  the  expedition,  was  taken  posses- 
sion of  in  the  name  of  the  King.  Extensive  and  com- 
modious harbors,  named  Ports  Logan,  Elizabeth,  and 
Eclipse,  were  discovered,  and  a  large  bay,  which  waa 
called  Mary  Jones  Bay.  By  the  end  of  September 
the  ship  had  examined  300  miles  of  undiscovered  coast 
The  winter  now  set  in  with  severity,  huge  masses  of 
ice  began  to  close  around  them,  the  thermometer  sank 
many  degrees  below  freezing  point,  and  snow  fell  very 
thick.  By  sawing  through  the  ice,  the  vessel  was  ffot 
into  a  secure  position  to  pass  the  winter,  in  a  station 
which  is  now  named  on  the  maps  Felix  Harbor.  The 
machinery  of  the  steam  engine  was  done  away  with, 
the  vessel  housed,  and  every  measure  that  could  add  to 
the  comfort  of  the  crew  adopted.  They  had  abundance 
of  liiel,  and  provisions  that  might  easily  be  extended 
to  three  years. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1831,  they  were  visited  by  a 
large  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  who  were  better  dressed  and 
cleaner  than  those  more  to  the  northward.  They  dis- 
played an  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  situation  and 
bearings  of  the  country  over  which  they  had  traveled, 
and  two  of  them  drew  a  very  fair  sketch  of  the  neigh- 
boring coasts,  with  which  they  were  familiar  ;  this 
was  revised  and  corrected  by  a  learned  lady  named 
Teriksin, —  the  females  seeming,  from  this  and  former 


CAFl'AIN   EOSS  S   SECOND   VOVAOE. 


159 


instances,  to  have  a  clear  knowledge  of  the  hydrography 
and  geography  of  the  continent,  bays,  straits,  and  riv- 
ers which  they  had  once  traven  ed. 

On  the  6th  of  April,  Commander  Ross,  with  Mr. 
Blanky,  the  chief  mate,  and  two  Esquimaux  guides,  set 
out  to  explore  a  strait  which  was  reported  as  lying  to 
the  westward,  and  which  it  was  hoped  might  lead  to 
the  western  sea.  After  a  tedious  and  arduous  journey, 
they  arrived,  on  the  third  day,  at  a  bay  facing  to  the 
westward  and  discovered,  further  inland,  an  extensive 
lake,  called  by  the  natives  Nie-tyle-le,  whence  a  broad 
river  flowed  into  the  bay.  Their  guides  informed  them, 
however,  there  was  no  prospect  of  a  water  comunica- 
tion  south  of  their  present  position.  Capt.  Koss  then 
traced  the  coast  fifty  or  sixty  miles  further  south. 

Several  journeys  were  also  made  by  Commander 
Ross,  both  inland  and  along  the  bays  and  inlets.  On 
the  1st  of  May,  from  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  he  observed 
a  large  inlet,  which  seemed  to  lead  to  the  western  sea. 
In  order  to  satisfy  himself  on  this  point,  he  set  out 
again  on  the  17th  of  May,  with  provisions  for  three 
weeks,  eight  dogs,  and  three  companions.  Having 
crossed  the  great  middle  lake  of  the  isthmus,  he  reached 
his  former  station,  and  thence  traced  an  inlet  which 
was  found  to  be  the  mouth  of  a  river  named  by  them 
Garry.  From  the  high  hill,  they  observed  a  chain  of 
lakes  leading  almost  to  Thom's  Bay,  the  Victory's  sta- 
tion in  Felix  Harbor.  Proceeding  northwest  along  the 
coast,  they  crossed  the  frozen  surface  of  the  strait  which 
has  since  been  named  after  Sir  James  Ross,  and  came 
to  a  large  island  which  was  called  Matty  ;  keeping 
along  its  northern  shore,  and  passing  over  a  narrow 
strait,  which  they  named  after  Wellington,  they  found 
themselves  on  what  was  considered  to  be  the  main- 
land, but  which  the  more  recent  discoveries  of  Simpson 
have  shown  to  be  an  island,  and  which  now  bears  the 
name  of  King  William's  Land.  Still  journeying  on- 
ward, with  difiiculties  continually  increasing,  from 
heavy  toil  and  severe  privation,  the  dogs  became  ex- 
hausted with  fatigue,  and  a  burden  rather  than  an  aid 
to  the  travelers. 


il 


1 


160 


PKOGKESS    OF   AllCTIC   DISCUVJiliY. 


*^ 


One  of  their  greatest  embarrassments  was,  how  to 
distinguish  between  land  and  sea.  "  When  all  is  ice, 
and  all  one  dazzling  mass  of  white  —  when  the  surface 
of  the  sea  itself  is  tossed  up  and  fixed  into  rocks,  while 
the  land  is,  on  the  contrary,  very  often  flat,  it  is  not 
always  so  easy  a  problem  as  it  might  seem  on  a  super- 
ficial view,  to  determine  a  fact  which  appears  in  words 
to  be  extremely  simple."  Although  their  provisions 
began  to  fall  short,  and  the  party  were  nearly  worn 
out.  Commander  Ross  was  most  desirous  of  making  as 
much  western  discovery  as  possible  ;  therefore,  depos- 
iting every  thing  that  could  be  dispensed  with,  he 
pushed  on,  on  the  28th,  with  only  four  days'  provisions, 
and  reached  Cape  Felix,  the  most  northern  point  of 
this  island,  on  the  following  day.  The  coast  here  took 
a  southwest  direction,  and  there  was  an  unbounded  ex- 
panse of  ocean  in  view.  The  next  morning,  after  hav- 
ing traveled  twenty  miles  farther,  they  reached  a  point, 
which  Ross  called  Point  Victory,  situated  in  lat.  64** 
46'  19",  long.  98°  32'  49'',  while  to  the  most  distant  one 
in  view,  estimated  to  be  in  long.  99°  17'  58",  he  gave 
the  name  of  Cape  Franklin.  However  loath  to  turn 
back,  yet  prudence  compelled  them  to  do  so,  for  as 
they  had  only  ten  days'  short  allowance  of  food,  and 
more  than  200  miles  to  traverse,  there  could  not  be  a 
moment's  hesitation  in  adopting  this  step.  A  high 
cairn  of  stones  was  erected  before  leaving,  in  which 
was  deposited  a  narrative  of  their  proceedings. 

The  party  endured  much  fatigue  and  suffering  on 
their  return  journey  ;  of  the  ei^t  dogs  only  two  sur- 
vived, and  the  travelers  in  a  most  exhausted  state  ar- 
rived in  the  neighborhood  of  the  large  lakes  on  the  8th 
of  June,  where  they  fortunately  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of 
natives,  who  received  them  hospitably,  and  supplied 
them  plentifolly  with  fish,  so  that  after  a  day's  rest 
they  resumed  their  journey,  and  reached  the  ship  on 
the  13th.  Captain  Ross  in  the  meanwhile  had  made  a 
partial  survey  of  the  Isthmus,  and  discovered  another 
large  lake,  which  he  named  after  Lady  Melville. 

After  eleven  months'  imprisonment  their  little  ship 


All 


59',  I 


CAPTAIN   boss's  fiECOND   VOYAGE. 


161 


once  more  floated  bnoyaixt  on  the  waves,  having  been 
released  from  her  icy  barrier  on  the  17th  of  September, 
but  for  the  next  few  days  made  but  little  progress, 
being  beaten  about  among  the  icebergs,  and  driven 
hither  and  thither  by  the  currents. 

A  chanffo  in  the  weather,  however,  took  place,  and 
on  the  2Ba  they  were  once  more  frozen  in,  the  sea  in  a 
week  after  exhibiting  one  clear  and  unbroken  surface. 
All  October  was  passed  in  cutting  through  the  ice  into 
a  more  secure  locality,  and  another  dreary  winter  hav- 
ing set  in,  it  became  necessary  to  reduce  the  allowance 
of  provisions.  This  winter  was  one  of  unparalleled 
severity,  tie  thermometer  falling  92°  below  freezing 
point.  During  the  ensuing  spring  a  variety  of  explo- 
ratory journeys  were  carried  on,  and  in  one  of  these 
Commander  Koss  succeeded  in  planting  the  British 
flag  on  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.  The  position  which 
had  been  usually  assigned  to  this  interesting  spot  by 
the  learned  of  Europe,  was  lat.  70°  N.,  and  long.  98° 
30'  W. ;  but  Ross,  by  careful  observations,  determined 
it  to  lie  in  lat.  70°  6'  17"  IST.,  and  long.  96°  46'  45"  W., 
to  the  southward  of  Cape  Nikolai,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Boothia.  But  it  has  since  been  found  that  the  cen- 
ter of  magnetic  intensity  is  a  movable  point  revolving 
within  the  frigid  zone. 

"  The  place  of  the  observatory,"  Ross  remarks,  "  was 
as  near  to  the  magnetic  pole  as  the  limited  means  which 
I  possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.  The  amount  of 
the  dip,  as  indicated  by  my  dipping-needle,  was  89° 
69',  being  thus  within  one  minute  of  the  vertical ; 
while  the  proximity  at  least  of  this  pole,  if  not  its  ac- 
tual existence  where  we  stood,  was  further  confirmed 
by  the  action,  or  rather  by  the  total  inaction,  of  the 
several  horizontal  needles  then  in  my  possession." 

Parry's  observations  placed  it  eleven  minutes  distant 
only  from  the  site  determined  by  Ross. 

"As  soon,"  continues  Ross,  "as  I  had  satisfied  my 
own  mind  on  the  subject,  I  made  known  to  the  party 
this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labors  ;  and  it  was 
then  that,  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  fixed  the 


-■■'•-'^^■l.  "    - i-Xl'S^    .JL^/.M.!.- 


162 


rROGRESS   OF  AECTIO  BIBQOYEBY. 


British  flag  on  the  spot,  and  took  possession  of  the 
North  Magnetic  Pole  and  its  adjoining  territory  in  the 
name  of  Great  Britain  and  King  William  IV.  We 
had  abundance  of  materials  for  ouilding  in  the  frag- 
ments of  limestone  that  covered  the  beach,  and  we 
therefore  erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  under 
which  we  buried  a  canister  containing  a  record  of  the 
interesting  fact,  only  regretting  that  we  had  not  the 
means  of  constructing  a  pyramid  of  more  importance, 
and  of  strength  sufficient  to  withstand  the  assaults  of 
time  and-  of  the  Esquimaux.  Had  it  been  a  pyramid 
as  large  as  that  of  Cheops,  I  am  not  quite  sure  that  it 
would  have  done  more  than  satisfy  our  ambition  under 
the  feelings  of  that  exciting  day." 

On  the  28th  of  August,  1831,  they  contrived  to  warp 
the  Victory  out  into  the  open  sea,  and  made  sail  on 
the  following  morning,  but  were  soon  beset  with  ice, 
as  on  the  former  occasion,  being  once  more  completely 
frozen  in  by  the  27th  of  September. 

On  the  previous  occasion  their  navigation  had  been 
three  miles ;  this  year  it  extended  to  four.  This  pro- 
tracted detention  in  the  ice  made  their  present  posi- 
tion one  of  great  danger  and  peril.  As  there  seemed 
no  prospect  of  extracting  their  vessel,  the  resolution 
was  come  to  of  abandoning  her,  and  making  the  best 
of  their  way  up  the  inlet  to  Fury  Beach,  there  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  boats,  provisions,  and  stores,  which 
would  assist  them  in  reaching  Davis'  Straits,  where 
they  might  expect  to  fall  in  with  one  of  the  whale 
ships. 

On  the  23d  of  April,  1832,  having  collected  all  that 
was  useful  and  necessary,  the  expedition  set  out,  drag- 
ging their  provisions  and  boats  over  a  vast  expanse  of 
rugged  ice.  "  The  loads  being  too  heavy  to  be  car- 
ried at  once,  made  it  necessary  to  go  backward  and 
forward  twice,  and  even  oftener,  the  same  day.  They 
had  to  encounter  dreadful  tempests  of  snow  and  drift, 
and  to  make  several  circuits  in  order  to  avoid  impas- 
sable barriers.  The  general  result  was,  that  by  the 
12th  of  May  they  had  traveled  329  miles  to  gain  thirty 


CAPTAIN  E068'8  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


163 


in  a  direct  line,  having  in  this  labor  expended  a 
month."  After  this  preliminary  movement,  thev  bade 
a  farewell  to  their  little  vessel,  nailing  her  colors  to 
the  mast.  Capt.  Boss  describes  himself  as  deeply  af- 
fected ;  this  being  the  first  vessel  he  had  been  obliged 
to  abandon  of  thirty-six  in  which  he  had  served  dur- 
ing the  course  of  forty-two  years.  On  the  9th  of  June, 
Commander  Eoss  and  two  others,  with  a  fortnight's 
provisions,  left  the  main  body,  who  were  more  heav- 
ily loaded,  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  boats  and  sup- 
plies at  Fury  Beach.  Ketuming  they  met  their  com- 
rades on  the  25th  of  June,  reporting  that  they  had 
found  three  of  the  boats  washed  away,  but  enough  still 
left  for  their  purpose,  and  all  the  provisions  were  in 
good  condition.  The  remainder  of  the  journey  was 
accomplished  by  the  whole  party  in  a  week,  and  on 
the  Ipt  of  July  they  reared  a  canvas  mansion,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Somerset  House,  and 
enjoyed  a  hearty  meal. 

By  the  1st  of  August  the  boats  were  rendered  ser- 
viceable, and  a  considerable  extent  of  open  sea  being 
visible,  they  set  out,  and  after  much  buffeting  among 
the  ice  in  their  frail  shallops,  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  inlet  by  the  end  of  August.  After  several  fruit- 
less attempts  to  run  along  Barrow's  Strait,  the  obstruc- 
tions of  the  ice  obliged  them  to  haul  the  boats  on  shore, 
and  pitch  their  tents.  Barrow's  Strait  was  found,  from 
repeated  surveys,  to  be  one  impenetrable  mass  of  ice. 
After  lingering  here  till  the  third  week  in  September, 
it  was  unanimously  agreed  that  their  only  resource 
was  to  fall  back  on  the  stores  at  Fury  Beach,  and  there 
spend  their  fourth  winter.  They  were  only  able  to  get 
half  the  distance  in  the  boats,  which  were  hauled  on 
shore  in  Batty  Bay  on  the  24th  of  September,  and 
the  rest  of  their  journey  continued  on  foot,  tlie  pro- 
visions being  dragged  on  sledges.  On  the  7th  of  Oc- 
tober they  once  more  reached  their  home  at  the  scene 
of  the  wreck.  They  now  managed  to  shelter  their 
canvas  tent  by  a  wall  of  snow,  and  setting  up  an  ex- 
tra stove,  made  themselves  tolerably  comfortal'le  until 


i 


164 


PROGRESS   OF   AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


the  increasing  severity  of  the  winter,  and  rigor  of 
the  cold,  added  to  the  tempestuous  weather,  made 
them  perfect  prisoners,  and  sorely  tried  their  patience. 
Scurvy  now  becan  to  attack  several  of  the  party,  and 
on  the  16th  of  February,  1833,  Thomas,  the  carpenter, 
fell  a  victim  to  it,  and  two  others  died.  "  Their  situ- 
ation was  becoming  truly  awful,  since,  if  they  were 
not  liberated  in  the  ensuing  summer,  little  prospect 
appeared  of  their  surviving  another  year.  It  was 
necessary  to  make  a  reduction  in  the  allowance  of 
^reserved  meats ;  bread  was  somewhat  deficient,  and 
the  stock  of  wine  and  spirits  was  entirely  exhausted. 
However,  as  they  caught  a  few  foxes,  which  were  con- 
sidered a  delicacy,  and  there  was  plenty  of  flour, 
sugar,  soups,  and  vegetables,  a  diet  could  be  easily 
arranged  sufficient  to  support  the  party." 

"While  the  ice  remained  firm,  advantage  was  taken 
of  the  spring  to  carry  forward  a  stock  of  provisions  to 
Batty  Bay,  and  this,  though  only  thirty-two  miles,  oc- 
cupied them  a  whole  month,  owing  to  their  reduced 
numbers  from  sickness  and  heavy  loads,  with  the  jour- 
ney ings  to  and  fro,  having  to  go  over  the  ground  eight 
times. 

On  the  8th  of  July  they  finally  abandoned  this  de- 
pot, and  encamped  on  the  12th  at  their  boat  station  in 
batty  Bay,  where  the  aspect  of  the  sea  was  watched 
with  intense  anxiety  for  more  than  a  month.  On  the 
15th  of  August,  taking  advantage  of  a  lane  of  water 
which  led  to  the  northward,  the  party  embarked,  and 
on  the  following  morning  had  got  as  far  as  the  turn- 
ing point  of  their  last  year's  expedition.  Making  their 
way  slowly  among  the  masses  of  ice  with  which  the 
inlet  was  encumbered,  on  the  17th  they  found  the  wide 
expanse  of  Barrow's  Strait  open  before  them,  and  nav- 
igable, and  reached  to  within  twelve  miles  of  Capo 
York.  Pushing  on  with  renewed  spirits,  alternately 
rowing  and  sailing,  on  the  night  of  the  25th  they 
rested  in  a  good  harbor  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Navy 
Board  Inlet.  At  four  on  the  following  morning  they 
were  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  joyful  intelli- 


%: 


CAPTAIN   boss's  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


165 


gence  of  a  ship  being  in  sight,  and  never  did  men 
more  hurriedly  and  energetically  set  out ;  but  the  ele- 
ments conspiring  against  them,  after  being  baffled  by 
calms  and  currents,  they  had  the  misery  to  see  the 
ship  leave  them  with  a  fair  breeze,  and  found  it  im- 
possible to  overtake  her,  or  make  themselves  seen.  A 
few  hours  later,  however,  their  despair  was  relieved  by 
the  sight  of  another  vessel  which  was  lying  to  in  a  calm. 
By  dint  of  hard  rowing  they  were  this  time  more  for 
tunate,  and  soon  came  up  with  her ;  she  proved  to  bo 
the  Isabella,  of  Hull,  the  very  ship  in  which  Ross  had 
made  his  first  voyage  to  these  seas.  Capt.  Ross  was 
told  circumstantially  of  his  own  death,  &c.,  two  years 
previously,  and  he  had  some  difficulty  in  convincing 
them  that  it  was  really  he  and  his  party  who  now  stood 
before  them.  So  great  was  the  joy  with  which  they 
were  received,  that  the  Isabella  manned  her  yards, 
and  her  former  commander  and  his  gallant  band  of 
adventurers  were  saluted  with  three  hearty  cheers. 
The  scene  on  board  can  scarcely  be  described ;  each 
of  the  crew  vied  with  the  other  in  assisting  and  com- 
forting the  party,  and  it  cannot  better  be  told  than  in 
Ross's  own  words :  — 

"  The  ludicrous  soon  took  place  of  all  other  feelings  ; 
in  such  a  crowd,  and  such  confusion,  all  serious  thought 
was  impossible,  while  the  new  buoyancy  of  our  spirits 
made  us  abundantly  willing  to  be  amused  by  the  scene 
which  now  opened.  Every  man  was  hungry,  and  waa 
to  be  fed ;  all  were  ragged,  and  were  to  be  clothed  ; 
there  was  not  one  to  whom  washing  was  not  indispen- 
sable, nor  one  whom  his  beard  did  not  deprive  of  all 
human  semblance.  All,  every  thing  too,  was  to  be  done 
at  once  :  it  was  washing,  shaving,  dressing,  eating,  all 
intermingled  ;  it  was  all  the  materials  of  each  jumbled 
together,  while  in  the  midst  of  all  there  were  intermina- 
ble questions  to  be  asked  and  answered  on  both  sides  ; 
the  adventures  of  the  Yictory,  our  own  escapes,  the 
politics  of  England,  and  the  news  which  was  now  four 
years  old. 

"But  all  subsided  into  peace  at  last.    The  sick  were 


.  ■,<?■ 


#*  ¥ 


166 


PIIOOBEPS   OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


m 


accommodated,  the  scaraen  disposed  of,  and  all  was 
done  for  us  which  care  and  kindnesB  could  perform. 

"  Night  at  length  brought  quiet  and  serioua  thoughts, 
and  I  trust  there  was  not  a  man  among  us  who  did  not 
then  express,  where  it  was  due,  his  gratitude  for  that 
interposition  which  had  raised  us  ail  from  a  despair 
which  none  could  now  forget,  and  had  brought  us  from 
the  very  borders  of  a  most  distant  grave,  to  life  and 
friends  and  civilization.  Long  accustomed,  however, 
to  a  cold  bed  on  the  hard  snow  or  the  bare  rock,  few 
could  sleep  amid  the  comfort  of  our  new  accommoda- 
tions. I  was  myself  compelled  to  leave  the  bed  which 
liad  been  kindly  assigned  me,  and  take  my  aljode  in  a 
chair  for  the  night,  nor  did  it  fare  much  better  with  the 
rest.  It  was  for  time  to  reconcile  us  to  this  sudden  and 
violent  change,  to  break  through  what  had  bccomo 
habit,  and  inure  us  once  more  to  the  usages  of  our 
former  days." 

The  Isabella  remained  some  time  longer  to  prosecute 
the  fishery,  and  left  Davis'  Strait  on  lier  homeward 
passage  on  the  30th  September.  On  the  12th  of  Oc- 
tober they  made  the  Orkney  Islands,  and  arrived  at 
Hull  on  the  18th.  The  bold  explorers,  who  had  long 
been  given  up  as  lost,  were  looked  upon  as  men  risen 
from  the  grave,  and  met  and  escorted  by  crowds  of 
sympathizers.  A  public  entertaiiiment  was  given  to 
them  by  the  townspeople,  at  which  the  freedom  of  the 
town  was  presented  to  Captain  Ross,  and  next  day  ho 
left  for  London,  to  report  to  the  Admiralty,  and  was 
honored  by  a  presentatirm  to  the  king  at  Windsor. 

The  Admiralty  liberally  rewarded  all  the  parties, 
except  indeed  Captain  Koss.  Commander  J.  C.  Rosa 
was  appointed  to  the  guardship  at  Portsmouth  to  com- 
plete his  period  of  service,  and  then  received  his  post 
rank.  Mr.  Thom,  the  purser,  Mr.  M'Diarmid,  the  sur- 
geon, and  the  petty  officers,  were  appointed  to  good 
situations  in  the  navy.  The  seamen  received  the  usual 
double  pay  given  to  arctic  explorers,  up  to  the  time 
of  leaving  their  ship,  and  full  pay  from  that  date  until 
their  arrival  in  England. 


CAPTAIN   ROBS^B  B£COND  VOYAGE. 


167 


A  coramitteo  of  the  House  of  Commons  toolc  up  tho 
case  of  Captain  Koss  early  in  the  session  of  1834,  and 
on  their  recommendation  5,000/.  was  granted  him  as  a 
remuneration  for  his  pecuniary  outlay  and  privations. 

A  baronetcy,  on  the  recommendation  ot  the  same 
committee,  was  also  conferred  by  his  Majesty  William 
IV.  on  Mr.  Felix  Booth. 

In  looking  back  on  the  results  of  this  voyage,  no  im- 

{)artial  inquirer  can  deny  to  Captain  Ross  the  merit  of 
laving  effected  much  good  by  tracing  and  surveying 
the  wnole  of  tho  long  western  coast  of  Regent  Inlet, 
proving  Boothia  to  bo  a  peninsula,  and  setting  at  rest 
the  probability  of  any  navigable  outlet  being  discovered 
from  this  inlet  to  the  Polar  Sea.  The  lakes,  rivers  and 
islands  which  were  examined,  proved  with  sufficient 
accuracy  the  correctness  of  the  information  furnished  to 
Parry  by  the  Esquimaux. 

To  Commander  James  Ross  is  due  tho  credit  of 
resolving  many  important,  scientific  questions,  such  as 
the  comoination  of  light  with  magnetism,  fixing  tho 
exact  position  of  the  magnetic  pole.  lie  was  also  tho 
onl^  person  in  tho  expedition  competent  to  make  obser- 
vations in  geology,  natural  history  and  botany.  Out 
of  about  700  miles  of  new  land  explored.  Commander 
Ross,  in  the  expeditions  which  he  planned  and  con- 
ducted, discovered  nearly  500.  He  had,  up  to  this 
time,  passed  fourteen  summers  and  eight  winters  in 
these  seas. 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  "  Narrative  of  Yoy- 
Ages  of  Discovery  and  Research,"  p.  518,  in  opposition 
to  Ross's  opinion,  asserted  that  Boothia  was  not  joined 
to  the  continent,  but  that  they  vrere  "  completely  divi- 
ded by  a  navigable  strait,  ten  miles  wide  and  upward, 
leading  past  Sack's  Estuary,  and  into  the  Gulf  (of 
Bouthia,)  of  which  the  proper  name  is  Akkolee,  not 
Boothia  ;  and  moreover,  tnat  the  two  seas  flow  as  freely 
into  each  other  as  Lancaster  Sound  does  into  the  Polar 
Sea."  This  assumption  has  since  been  shown  to  bo 
incorrect.  Capt.  Ross  asserts  there  is  a  difference  in 
the  level  of  these  two  seas. 


t 


•   tpiT^UU  ;   - 


168 


PROGRESS  OF  ABCTIC   iifSOOVERT. 


I  may  liero  fitly  take  a  review  of  Captain  Ri,<(i8*8  ser- 
vices, lie  entered  tiie  navy  in  1700,  Herved  fifteen  yeura 
ns  a  midshipman,  seven  as  a  lieutenant,  and  seven  as  a 
commander,  and  was  posted  on  the  7tli  of  December, 
1818,  and  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  first  arctio 
expedition  ot  this  century.  On  his  return  he  received 
many  marks  of  favor  from  continental  sovereigns,  was 
knii^lited  and  made  a  Companion  of  the  Bath  on  tliu 
24tli  of  December,  1834 ;  made  a  Commander  of  the 
Sword  of  Sweden,  a  Knight  of  the  Second  Class  of  St 
Anne  of  Prussia  (in  diamonds,)  Second  Class  of  tho 
Legion  of  Honor,  and  of  the  Red  Eagle  of  Prunsia,  and 
of  Leopold  of  Belgium.  Received  the  royal  ])remiuii 
from  tho  Geographical  Society  of  London,  in  183e3,  fo 
his  discoveries  in  the  arctic  regions;  also  gold  meduh 
from  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  and  the  Royrl 
Societies  of  Sweden,  Austria,  and  Denmark.  The  free- 
dom of  the  cities  of  London,  Liverpool,  and  Rristo) ; 
six  gold  snuff-boxes  from  Russia,  Ilolland,  Denmark, 
Austria,  London  and  Baden ;  a  sword  valued  at  lOO 
guineas  from  the  Patriotic  Fund,  for  his  sufferings,  hav 
ing  been  wounded  thirteen  times  in  three  different 
actions  during  the  war  ;  and  one  of  the  value  of  200.?. 
from  the  King  of  Sweden,  for  service  in  the  Baltic  and 
the  White  Sea.  On  the  8th  of  March,  1839,  he  was 
appointed  to  the  lucrative  post  of  British  consul  at 
Stockholm,  which  he  held  for  six  years. 

Captain  Back's  Land  Journey,  1833-35. 

Four  years  having  elapsed  without  any  tidings  being 
received  of  Capt.  Ross  and  his  crew,  it  began  to  bo 
generally  feared  in  England  that  they  had  been  added 
to  the  number  of  former  sufierers,  in  the  prosecution  of 
their  arduous  undertaking. 

Dr.  Richardson,  who  nad  himself  undergone  such 
fright fril  perils  in  the  arctic  regions  with  Franklin,  was 
tlie  fir--  f  to  call  public  attention  to  the  subject,  in  a  letter 
to  t]u^  < '  eographical  Society,  in  which  he  suggested  a 
project  tor  relieving  them,  if  still  alive  and  to  be  found ; 


OAJTAIN  back's  LAND  JOURNEY. 


169 


and  ttt  the  same  time  volunteered  his  serviees  to  the 
Colonial  Secretary  of  the  day,  to  conduct  an  exploring 
party. 

Although  the  expedition  of  Capt.  Ross  was  not  under- 
taken under  the  auspices  of  government,  it  became  a 
national  concern!  to  ascertain  the  ultimate  fate  of  it,  and 
to  make  some  effort  for  the  relief  of  the  party,  whoso 
home  at  that  time  might  be  the  boisterous  Kua,  or  whoso 
shelter  the  snow  hut  or  the  floating  iceberg.  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson proposed  to  proceed  from  Hudson's  Bay,  in  a 
northwest  direction  to  Coronation  Gulf,  where  he  was 
to  commence  his  search  in  an  easterly  direction.  Pass- 
ing to  the  north,  along  the  eastern  side  of  this  ixiilf,  he 
would  arrive  at  Point  Turnagain,  the  eastern  poinr  of 
his  own  former  discovery.  Ilaving  accomplisli.  I  tli';, 
he  would  continue  his  search  toward  theeastwa:'!  until 
he  reached  Melville  Island,  thus  perfecting  geographical 
discovery  in  that  quarter,  arid  a  continued  cojist  lino 
might  be  laid  down  from  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait  to 
Beechey  Point,  leaving  only  the  small  space  between 
Franklm's  discovery  and  that  of  the  Blossom  unexplored. 
The  proposal  was  mvorably  received ;  but  owing  to  tho 
political  state  of  the  country  at  the  time,  the  oner  was 
not  accepted. 

A  meeting  was  held  in  November,  1832,  at  the  rooms 
of  the  Horticultural  Society,  in  Regent  street,  to  obtain 
funds,  and  arrange  for  fitting  out  a  private  relief  expe- 
dition, as  the  Admiralty  ana  Government  were  unablo 
to  do  this  officially,  in  consequence  of  Captain  Ross's 
expedition  not  being  a  public  one.  Sir  George  Cock- 
burn  took  the  chair,  and  justly  observed  that  those  offi- 
cers who  devoted  their  time  to  the  service  of  science, 
and  braved  in  its  pursuit  the  dangers  of  unknown  and 
ungenial  climates,  demanded  the  sympathy  and  assist- 
ance of  all.  Great  Britain  had  taken  the  lead  in  geo- 
graphical discovery,  and  there  was  not  one  in  this  coun- 
try who  did  not  feel  pride  and  honor  in  the  fame  she 
had  attained  by  the  expeditions  of  Parry  and  Franklin  ; 
but  if  we  wished  to  create  future  Parrys  and  Franklins, 
if  we  wished  to  encourage  British  enterprise  and  cour 


'\- 


iro 


PKOORESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


affe,  we  must  prove  that  the  officer  who  is  out  cf  sight 
ot  his  countrymen  is  not  forgotten ;  that  there  is  con- 
sideration for  his  sufferinffs,  and  appreciation  of  his 
spirit.  This  reflection  will  cheer  him  in  the  hour  of 
trial,  and  will  permit  him,  when  surrounded  by  dangers 
and  privations,  to  indulge  in  hope,  the  greatest  blessing 
of  man.  Captain  George  Back,  R.  jN.,  who  was  in 
Italy  when  the  subject  was  first  mooted,  hastened  to 
England,  and  offerea  to  lead  the  party,  and  his  services 
were  accepted.  A  subscription  was  ent^sred  into,  to 
defray  the  necessary  expenses,  and  upward  of  6000^. 
was  raised ;  of  this  sum,  at  the  recommendation  of  Lord 
Goderich,  the  then  Secretary  of  State,  the  Treasury  con- 
tributed 2000^. 

After  an  interview  with  the  king  at  Brighton,  to  which 
he  was  specially  summoned.  Captain  Back  made  prepa- 
rations for  his  journey,  and  laid  down  his  plan  of  opera- 
tions. In  order  to  facilitate  his  views,  and  give  him 
greater  authority  over  his  men,  special  instructions  and 
authority  were  issued  by  the  Colonial  Office,  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  granted  him  a  commission  in 
their  service,  and  placed  every  assistance  at  his  disposal 
throughout  their  territory  in  North  America. 

Every  thing  being  definitely  arranged,  Capt.  Back, 
accompanied  by  Dr.  Richard  King  as  surgeon  and  natu- 
ralist, with  three  men  who  had  been  on  the  expedition 
with  Franklin,  left  Liverpool  on  the  17th  of  February, 
1833,  in  one  of  the  New  York  packet  ships,  and  arrived 
in  America  after  a  stormy  passage  of  thirty-five  days. 
He  proceeded  on  to  Montreal,  where  he  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  preventing  two  of  the  men  from  leaving  him, 
as  their  hearts  began  to  fail  them  at  the  prospect  of 
the  severe  journey  with  its  attendant  difficulties,  which 
they  had  to  encounter. 

Four  volunteers  from  the  Royal  Artillery  corps  here 
joined  him,  and  some  voyageurs  having  been  engaged, 
the  party  left,  in  two  canoes,  on  the  25th  of  April.  Two 
of  his  party  deserted  from  him  in  the  Ottawa  -'iver. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  having  obtained  his  comple- 
ment of  men,  he  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  his 


CArTAI.V   BACKS   LAND  JOURNEY. 


171 


journey.  They  Buffered  dreadfully  from  myriads  of 
siind-flies  and  musquitoes,  being  so  disfiffurea  by  their 
attacks  that  their  features  could  scarcely  be  recognized. 
Horse-flies,  appropriately  styled  -'  bull-dogs,"  were  an- 
other dreadful  pest,  which  jDertinaciously  gorged  them- 
selves, like  the  leech,  until  they  seemed  ready  to  burst. 

"  It  is  in  vain  to  attempt  to  defend  yourself  against 
these  puny  bloodsuckers  ;  though  you  crush  thousands 
of  them,  tens  of  thousands  arise  to  avenge  the  death  of 
their  companions,  and  you  very  soon  discover  that  tho 
conflict  w^hich  you  are  waging  is  one  in  which  you  are 
sure  to  be  defeated.  So  great  at  last  are  the  pains  and 
fatigue  in  buffeting  away  this  attacking  force,  that  in 
despair  you  throw  yourself,  half  suffocated,  in  a  blanket, 
with  your  face  upon  the  ground,  and  snatch  a  few  min- 
utes of  sleepless  rest."  Capt.  Back  adds  that  the  vig- 
orous and  unintermitting  assaults  of  these  tormenting 
pests  conveyed  the  moral  lesson  of  man's  helplessness, 
since,  with  all  our  boasted  strength,  we  are  unable  to 
repel  these  feeble  atoms  of  creation.  "  How,"  he  says, 
"  can  I  possibly  give  an  idea  of  the  torment  we  endured 
from  the  sand-flies  ?  As  we  divided  into  the  confined 
and  suffocating  chasms,  or  waded  through  the  close 
swamps,  they  rose  in  clouds,  actually  darkening  the  air ; 
to  see  or  to  speak  was  equally  difficult,  for  they  rushed 
at  every  undefended  part,  and  fixed  their  poisonous 
fangs  in  an  instant.  Our  faces  streamed  with  blood,  as 
if  leeches  had  been  applied,  and  there  was  a  burning 
and  irritating  pain,  followed  by  immediate  inflamma- 
tion, and  producing  giddiness,  which  almost  drove  ug 
mad,  and  caused  us  to  moan  with  pain  and  agony. 

At  the  Pine  portage,  Captain  Back  engaged  the 
services  of  A.  R.  McLeod,  in  the  employ  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  who  had  been  fixed  upon  by 
Governor  Simpson,  to  aid  the  expedition.  He  was 
accompanied  by  his  wife,  three  children,  and  a  ser- 
vant; and  had  just  returned  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
with  a  large  cargo  of  furs.  The  whole  family  were  at- 
tached to  tho  party,  and  after  some  detentions  of  a 
general  and  unimportant  character  they  arrived  at 
8 


172 


niOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Fort  Chipewyan  on  the  20th  of  July.  Fort  Resoiu 
tion,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  was  reached  on  the  8th  of 
August. 

The  odd  assemblage  of  goods  and  voyageurs  in  their 
encampment  are  thus  graphically  described  by  the 
traveler,  as  he  glanced  around  him. 

"At  my  feet  was  a  rolled  bundle  in  oil-cloth,  con- 
taining some  three  blankets,  called  a  bed ;  near  it  a 
piece  of  dried  buffalo,  fancifully  ornamented  with  long 
black  hairs,  which  no  art,  alas,  can  prevent  from  insin- 
uating themselves  between  the  teeth,  as  you  laboriously 
masticate  the  tough,  hard  flesh;  then  a  tolerably  cleau 
napkin,  spread  by  way  of  table-cloth,  on  a  red  piece  of 
canvas,  and  supporting  a  tea-pot,  some  biscuits,  and  a 
salt-cellar  ;  near  this  a  tin  plate,  close  by  a  square  kind 
of  box  or  safe  of  the  same  material,  rich  with  a  pale, 
greasy  hair,  the  produce  of  the  colony  at  Red  River ; 
and  the  last,  the  far-renowned  j9^m??2i*(?£j^,  unquestion- 
ably the  best  food  of  the  country  for  expeditions  such 
as  ours.  Behind  me  were  two  boxes  containing  astro- 
nomical instruments,  and  a  sextant  lying  on  the  ground, 
while  the  different  corners  of  the  tent  were  occupied 
by  a  washing  apparatus,  a  gun,  an  Indian  shot-pouch, 
bags,  basins,  and  an  unhappy-looking  japanned  pot, 
whose  melancholy  bumps  and  hollows  seemed  to  re- 
proach me  for  many  a  bruise  endured  upon  the  rocks 
and  portages  between  Montreal  and  Lake  Winnipeck. 
]N"or  were  my  crew  less  motley  than  the  furniture  of 
the  tent.  It  consisted  of  an  Englishman,  a  man  from 
Stornaway,  two  Canadians,  two  Metifs  or  half-breeds, 
and  three  Iroquois  Indians.  Babel  could  not  have  pro- 
duced a  worso  confusion  of  unharmonious  sounds  than 
was  the  conversation  they  kept  up." 

Having  obtained  at  Fort  Resolution  all  possible  in- 
formation, from  the  Indians  and  others,  relative  to  the 
course  of  the  northern  rivers  of  which  he  was  in  search, 
he  divided  his  crew  into  two  parties,  five  of  whom  were 
left  as  an  escort  for  Mr.  McLeod,  and  four  were  to  ac- 
company himself  in  search  of  the  Great  Fish  River, 
since  appropriately  named  after  Back  himself. 


CAITAIN  KACK's  land  JOURNEY. 


173 


On  tho  lOtli  of  August  they  began  the  ascent  of  the 
Hoar  Frost  River,  whose  course  was  a  series  of  the 
most  fearful  cascades  and   rapids.    The  woods   hero 
were  so  thick  as  to  render  them  almost  impervious 
consisting  chiefly  of  stunted  firs,  which  occasioned  in 
finite  trouble  to  the  party  to  force  their  way  through 
added  to  which,  thev  had  to  clamber  over  fallen  trees 
through  rivulets,  and  over  bogs  and  swamps,  until  tho 
difiiculties  ajDpeared   so  appalling,  as   almost  to   dis- 
hearten the  party  from  prosecuting  their  journey.    Tho 
heart  of  Captain  Back  was,  however,  of  too  stern  a  cast 
to  be  dispirited  by  difiiculties,  at  which  less  perse ver 
ing  explorers  would   have  turned  away  discomfited, 
and  cheering  on  his  men,  like  a  bold  and  gallant  leader, 
the  first  in  the  advance  of  danger,  they  arrived  at  length 
in  an  open  space,  where  they  rested  for  awhile  to  recruit 
their  exhausted  strength.    The  place  was,  indeed,  one 
of  barrenness  and  desolation ;  crag  was  piled  upon  crag 
to  the  height  of  2000  feet  from  the  base,  and  the  course 
of  the  river  liere,  in  a  state  of  contraction,  was  marked 
by  an  uninterrupted  line  of  foam. 

However  great  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  may  be, 
and  however  resolute  may  be  the  will,  severe  toil  will 
at  length  relax  the  sp'iv's  v^nd  bring  a  kind  of  despon- 
dency upon  a  hfirt  n.tu  -ally  oold  and  undaunted.  This 
was  found  particularly  the  •  u  e  now  with  i''^  'nterpre- 
ter,  who  became  a  le^d  weight  upon  the  pa.-b-  Rapid 
now  succeeded  r.;|id  ;  scarcely  had  they  surmounted 
one  fall  than  another  p'esented  it-elf,  rising  like  an  am- 
phitheater before  them  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  They, 
however,  gained  at  length  the  ascent  of  this  turbulent 
and  unfriendly  ri'/or,  the  romantic  beauty  and  wild 
Bcenery  of  which  were  strikingly  grand,  and  after  pass- 
ijig  successively  a  series  of  ^  rtageg,  rapids,  falls,  lakes, 
and  rivers,  on  the  27th  Bac'c  observed  from  the  summit 
of  a  high  hill  a  very  large  lake  full  of  deep  bays  and 
islands,  and  which  has  been  nairicd  Aylmer  Lake,  after 
the  Governor-General  of  Canada  at  that  time,  The 
boat  was  ^ent  out  >vith  three  mm  to  pearph  for  the  lake, 
or  outlet  of  the  river,  which  thev  discovered  on  the  eeo- 


u 


iPs 


"^'tl 


M 


H4 


PE0GRES9   or   AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


ond  day,  and  Captain  Back  himself,  during  their  ab^ 
sence,  also  accidentally  discovered  its  source  in  the 
Sand  Hill  Lake,  not  far  from  his  encampment.  Kot 
prouder  was  Bruce  when  he  stood  on  the  green  god 
which  covers  the  source  of  the  Nile,  than  was  Captain 
Back  when  he  found  that  he  was  standing  at  the  source 
of  a  river,  the  existence  of  which  was  known,  but  the 
course  of  which  was  a  problem,  no  traveler  had  yet  ven- 
tured to  solve.  Yielding  to  that  pleasurable  emotion 
which  discoverers,  in  the  first  bound  of  their  transport, 
may  be  pardoned  for  indulging,  Back  tells  us  he  threw 
himself  down  on  the  bank  and  drank  a  hearty  draught 
of  the  '"mpid  water. 

"For  this  occasion,"  he  adds,  "I  had  reserved  a  lit- 
tle grog,  and  need  hardly  say  with  what  cheerfulness 
it  was  shared  among  the  crew,  whose  welcome  tidings 
had  verified  the  notion  of  Dr.  Richardson  and  myself, 
and  thus  placed  beyond  doubt  the  existence  of  the 
Thlew-ee-choh,  or  Great  Fish  River. 

On  the  30th  of  August,  they  began  to  move  toward 
the  river,  but  on  reaching  Musk-ox  Lake,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  stand  the  force  of  the  rapids  in  their  frail 
canoe,  and  as  winter  was  approaching,  their  return  to 
the  rendezvous  on  Slave  Lake  was  determined  on. 

At  Clinton  Colden  Lake,  some  Indians  visited  them 
from  the  Chief  Akaitcho,  who,  it  will  be  remembered, 
was  the  guide  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  Two  of  these  In- 
dians remembered  Captain  Back,  one  having  accom- 
panied him  to  the  Coppermine  River,  on  Franklin's 
first  expedition. 

At  the  Cat  or  Artillery  Lake,  they  had  to  abandon 
their  canoe,  and  perform  the  rest  of  the  journey  on  foot 
over  precipitous  rocks,  through  frightful  gorges  and  ra- 
"vines,  heaped  with  masses  of  granite,  and  along  narrow 
ledges,  where  a  fabe  step  would  have  been  fatal. 

At  Fort  Reliance,  the  party  found  Mr.  McLeod  had, 
during  their  absence,  erected  the  frame-work  of  a  com- 
fortable residence  for  them,  and  all  hands  set  to  work 
to  complete  it.  After  many  obstacles  and  difficulties, 
it  was  finished. 


I  I 


..;. 


OAI-TAIN   B.iCK'B   LAND  JOURNEY. 


171 


Dr.  Kinff  joined  them  on  the  16th  of  September,  with 
two  laden  oateaux. 

On  the  6th  of  November,  they  exchanged  their  cold 
tents  for  the  new  house,  which  was  fifty  feet  long  by 
thirty  broad,  and  contained  four  rooms,  besides  a  spa- 
cious hall  in  the  center,  for  the  reception  and  accom- 
modation of  the  Indians,  to  which  a  sort  of  rude  kitchen 
was  attached. 

As  the  winter  advanced,  bands  of  starving  Indians 
continued  to  arrive,  in  the  hc»pe  of  obtaining  some  re- 
lief, as  little  or  nothing  was  to  be  procured  by -hunting. 
They  would  stand  around  while  the  men  were  taking 
their  meals,  watching  every  mouthful  with  the  most 
longing,  imploring  look,  but  yet  never  uttered  a  com- 
plaint. 

At  other  times  they  would,  seated  round  the  fire,  oc- 
cupy themselves  in  roasting  and  devouring  small  bits 
of  their  reindeer  garments,  which,  even  when  entire, 
afforded  them  a  very  insufficient  protection  against  a 
temperature  of  102°  below  freezing  point. 

The  sufferings  of  the  poor  Indians  at  this  period  are 
described  as  frightful.  "  Famine  with  her  gaunt  and 
bony  a'Di,"  sayo  Back,  "  pursued  them  at  every  turn, 
withered  their  energies,  and  strewed  tliem  lifeless  on 
the  cold  bosom  of  the  snow."  It  was  impo^^^ible  to 
afford  relief  out  of  their  scanty  store  to  all,  bnt  even 
small  portions  of  the  mouldy  pemmican  inten'KMl  for 
the  dogs,  unpalatable  as  it  was,  was  gladly  r«  (:t;ived, 
and  fcaved  many  from  perishing.  "  Often,"  add-  [>ack, 
"  did  I  share  my  own  plate  with  the  children  whose 
helpless  state  and  piteous  cries  were  peculiarly  distress- 
ing ;  compassion  for  the  full-grown  may,  or  may  not, 
be  felt,  but  that  heart  must  be  cased  in  steel  which  is 
insensible  to  the  cry  of  a  child  for  food." 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Akaitcho  made  his  appear- 
ance with  an  opportune  supply  of  a  little  meat,  which 
in  some  measure  enabled  Captain  Back  to  relievo  the 
sufferers  around  him,  many  of  whom,  to  his  great  de- 
light, went  away  with  Akaitcho.  The  stock  of  meat 
was  soon  exhausted,  and  they  had  to  open  their  pcm- 


176 


PBOORESS   OF  AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


Wl 


mican.  Tho  officers  contented  themselves  with  the 
short  supply  of  half  a  pound  a  day,  but  the  laboring 
men  could  not  do  with  less  than  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters.  The  cold  now  set  in  with  an  intensity  which 
Captain  Back  had  never  before  experienced, —  the  ther- 
mometer, on  the  17th  of  Januarv,  being  70°  below  zero. 
"  Such  indeed,  (he  says,)  was  the  abstraction  of  heat, 
that  with  eight  laree  logs  of  dry  wood  on  the  fire,  I 
could  not  get  the  tnermometer  higher  than  12°  below 
zero.  Ink  and  paint  froze.  The  sextant  cases  and 
boxes  of  seasoned  wood,  principally  fir,  all  split.  The 
skin  of  the  hands  became  dry,  cracked  and  opened 
into  unsightly  and  smarting  gashes,  which  we  were 
obliged  to  anoint  with  grease.  On  one  occasion,  after 
washing  my  face  within  three  feet  of  the  fire,  my  hair 
was  actually  clotted  with  ice  before  I  had  time  to  dry  it." 

The  hunters  suffered  severely  from  the  intensity  of 
jhe  cold,  and  compared  the  sensation  of  handling  their 
guns  to  that  of  touching  red-hot  iron,  and  so  excessive 
was  the  pain,  that  they  were  obliged  to  wrap  thongs  of 
leather  round  the  triggers  to  keep  their  fingers  from 
coming  into  contact  with  the  steel.  • 

The  sufferings  which  the  party  now  endured  were 
great,  i:nd  had  it  not  been  for  tne  exemplary  conduct 
of  Akaitcho  in  procuring  them  game,  it  is  to  be  doubted 
whether  any  would  have  survived  to  tell  the  misery 
they  had  endured.  The  sentiments  of  this  worthy  sav 
age  were  nobly  expressed  — "  The  great  chief  trusts  in 
us,  and  it  is  better  that  ten  Indians  perish,  than  that 
one  ';v}jite  man  should  perish  through  our  negligencQ 
and  breach  of  faiiJ," 

On  the  14th  of  February,  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  family 
removed  to  a  place  half  way  between  the  fort  and  tho 
Indians,  in  order  to  facilitate  their  own  support,  and 
assist  in  procuring  food  by  hunting.  His  situation, 
however,  became  soon  one  of  the  greatest  embarrass- 
ment, he  and  his  family  being  surrounded  by  difficul- 
ties, privations,  and  death>^.  Six  of  the  natives  near 
him  sank  under  the  horrors  of  starvation,  and  Akaitchc 
and  his  hunters  were  twelve  days'  march  distant. 


; 


CAITAIN   BACK'S  LAND  JOURNEY. 


177 


Toward  the  end  of  April,  Capt.  Back  began  to  make 
arrangements  for  constructing  boats  for  prosecuting  the 
expedition  once  more,  and  while  so  employed,  on  the 
25th  a  messenger  arrived  with  the  gratifying  intelli- 
gence, that  Capt.  Ross  had  arrived  safely  in  England, 
confirmation  of  which,  was  afibrded  in  extracts  from 
the  Times  and  Herald,  and  letters  from  the  long  lost 
adventurers  themselves.  Their  feelings  at  these  glad 
tidings  are  thus  described  : — "  In  the  fullness  of  our 
hearts  we  assembled  together,  and  humbly  offered  up 
our  thanks  to  that  merciful  Providence,  who  in  the 
beautiful  language  of  scripture  hath  said, '  Mine  own 
will  I  bring  again,  as  I  did  sometime  from  the  deeps 
of  the  sea.'  iSie  thought  of  so  wonderful  a  preserva- 
tion overpowered  for  a  time  the  common  occurrences 
of  life.  We  had  just  sat  down  to  breakfast ;  but  our 
appetite  was  gone,  and  the  day  was  passed  in  a  fever- 
ish state  of  excitement.  Seldom,  indeed,  did  my  friend 
Mr.  Ejng  or  I  indulge  in  a  libation,  but  on  this  joyful 
occasion  economy  was  forgotten  ;  a  treat  was  given  to 
the  men,  and  for  ourselves  the  social  sympathies  were 
quickened  by  a  generous  bowl  of  punch."  Capt.  Back's 
former  interpreter,  Augustus,  hearing  that  he  was  in 
the  country,  set  out  on  foot  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  join 
him,  but  getting  separated  from  his  two  companions, 
the  gallant  little  fellow  was  either  exhausted  by  suffer- 
ing and  privations,  or,  caught  in  the  midst  of  an  open 
traverse,  in  one  of  those  terrible  snow  storms  which 
may  be  said  to  blow  almost  through  the  frame,  he  had 
sunk  to  rise  no  more,  his  bleachea  remains  being  dis- 
covered not  far  from  the  Riviere  a  Jean.  "  Such," 
says  Capt.  Back,  "  was  the  miserable  end  of  poor  Au- 
gustus, a  faithful,  disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature, 
who  had  won  the  regard,  not  of  myself  only,  but  I 
may  add,  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  also, 
by  qualities  which,  wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  is  ia 
the  highest  forms  of  social  life,  are  the  ornament  and 
charm  of  humanity." 

On  the  Tth  of  June,  all  the  preparations  being  com- 
j^etedj  McLeod  having  been  previously  sent  on  to  hunt, 


178 


PROOBESS  OF  AROTIO  DISCOVERY. 


!i!i 


,    1  r 


and  deposit  casks  of  meat  at  various  stages,  Back  sot 
out  with  Mr.  King,  accompanied  by  four  voyagers  and 
an  Indian  guide.  The  stores  not  required  were  buried, 
and  the  doors  and  windows  of  the  liouso  blocked  up. 

At  Artillery  Lake,  Back  picked  up  the  remainder 
of  his  party,  with  the  carpenters  who  had  been  em- 
ployed jjreparing  boats.  The  lightest  and  best  was 
chosen  and  placed  on  runners  plated  with  iron,  and  in 
this  manner  she  was  drawn  over  the  ice  by  two  men  and 
six  fine  dogs.  The  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  was  fol- 
lowed, as  it  was  found  less  rocky  and  precipitous  than 
the  o])posite  one.  The  march  was  prosecuted  by  night, 
the  air  being  more  fresh  and  pleasant,  and  the  party 
took  rest  in  the  day.  The  glare  of  the  ice,  the  difh- 
culty  encountered  in  getting  the  boat  along,  the  ice  be- 
ing so  bad  that  the  spikes  of  the  runners  cut  through 
instead  of  sliding  over  it,  and  the  thick  snow  which 
fell  in  June,  greatly  increased  the  labor  of  getting  along. 
The  cold,  raw  wind  pierced  through  them  in  spite  of 
cloaks  and  blankets.  After  being  caulked,  the  boat 
was  launched  on  the  14th  of  June,  the  lake  being  suf- 
ficiently unobstructed  to  admit  of  her  being  towed 
along  shore.  The  weather  now  became  exceedingly 
unpleasant  —  hail,  snow,  and  rain,  pelted  them  one  after 
tlie  other  for  some  time  without  respite,  and  then  only 
yielded  to  squalls  that  overturned  the  boat.  With 
alternate  spells  and  baitings  to  rest,  they  however, 
gradually  advanced  on  the  traverse,  and  were  really 
making  considerable  progress  when  pelting  showers  of 
sleet  and  drift  so  dimmed  and  confused  the  sight,  dark- 
ening the  atmosphere,  and  limiting  their  view  to  only 
a  few  paces  before  them,  as  to  render  it  an  extremely 
perplexing  task  to  keep  their  course. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  they  fortunately  fell  in  with  a 
cache  made  for  them  by  their  avant-coiirier^  Mr.  Mc- 
Leod,  in  which  was  a  seasonable  supply  of  deer  and 
musk-ox  flesh,  the  latter,  however,  so  impregnated  with 
the  odor  from  whicli  it  takes  its  namo,  that  tlio  men  de- 
clared they  ^vould  rather  (;tavv\>  thwe  days  than  swal- 
low a  mouthful  r)f  it.    To  remove  this  unfavorable  im- 


CAPTAIN  DACK  8  LAND  JOURNEY. 


179 


pression,  Capt.  Back  ordered  the  daily  rations  to  l)o 
served  from  it  for  Lis  own  mess  as  well  as  theirs,  tak- 
ing occasion  at  the  same  time,  to  impress  on  their  minds 
the  injurious  consequences  of  voluntary  aljstinence, 
and  the  necessity  of  accommodating  their  tastes  to 
such  food  as  the  country  might  supply.  Soon  after  an- 
other caclie  was  met  with,  thus  making  eleven  animals 
in  all,  that  had  been  thus  obtained  and  secured  for 
them  by  the  kind  care  of  Mr.  McLeod. 

On  the  27th,  they  reached  Sandy  Hill  Bay,  where 
they  found  Mr.  McLeod  encamped.  On  the  iJ8th,  the 
boat  being  too  frail  to  be  dragged  over  the  portage, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  was  carried  bodily 
by  the  crew,  and  launched  safely  in  the  Thlew-ee-choh 
or  Fish  River.  After  crossing  the  portage  beyond 
Musk-ox  Rapid,  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  having 
all  his  party  together.  Captain  Back  took  a  survey  ot 
his  provisions  for  the  three  months  of  operations,  which 
he  found  to  consist  of  two  boxes  of  maccaroni,  a  case 
of  cocoa,  twenty-seven  bags  of  pemmican  of  about  80 
lbs.  each,  and  a  keg  with  two  gallons  of  rum.  This  he 
considered  an  adequate  supply  if  all  turned  out  sound 
and  good.  The  difficulty,  however,  of  transporting  a 
weight  of  5000  lbs,  over  ice  and  rocks,  by  a  circuitous 
route  of  full  200  miles,,  may  be  easily  conceived,  not  to 
mention  the  pain  endured  in  walking  on  some  parts 
where  the  ice  formed  innumerable  spilvcs  that  pierced 
like  needles,  and  in  other  places  where  it  wae  so  black 
and  decayed,  that  it  threatened  at  every  step  to  engulf 
tlie  adventurous  traveler.  These  and  similar  difhcul 
ties  could  only  be  overcome  by  the  most  steady  perse 
vorance,  and  the  most  determined  resolution. 

Among  the  group  of  dark  figures  huddled  together 
in  the  Indian  encampment  around  them,  Capt.  Back 
found  his  old  acquaintance,  the  Indian  beauty  of  whom 
mention  is  made  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  un- 
der the  name  of  Green  Stockings.  Although  sur- 
rounded with  a  family,  with  one  urchin  in  her  cloak 
clinging  to  her  back,  and  several  other  matei'nal  ac- 
Jompaniments,  Copt.   Back  immediately  recognized 

8* 


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rROOUlCSS   OF   AltCllO   DfSCOVKItY. 


I 
t 


!! 


her,  and  called  her  by  her  iiamc,  ut  which  she  laughed, 
and  said  she  was  an  old  womo.n  liow,  and  brg-ged  that 
she  might  be  relieved  by  the  "  medicine  man  "  tor  she 
wrt8  very  much  out  of  health.  However,  notwithstand- 
ing all  this,  she  was  still  the  beauty  of  her  tribe,  and 
with  that  consciousness  which  belongs  to  all  belles,  sav- 
age or  polite,  she  seemed  by  no  means  displeased  when 
lUick  sketched  her  portrait. 

Mr.  McLeod  was  now  sent  back,  taking  with  him  ten 
persons  arid  fourteen  dogs.  His  instructions  were  to 
])rocced  to  Fort  Resolution  for  the  stores  expected  to  be 
sent  there  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  build  a 
house  in  some  good  locality,  lor  a  permanent  fishing 
station,  and  to  be  again  on  the  banks  of  the  Fish  lliver 
]jy  the  middle  of  September,  to  afford  Back  and  his 
l^arly  any  assistance  or  relief  they  might  require. 

The  old  Indian  chief  Akaitcho,  hearing  from  the  in- 
terpreter that  Capt.  Back  was  in  his  immediate  neigh- 
borhood, said,  "  I  have  known  the  chief  a  long  time, 
and  I  am  afraid  I  shall  never  see  him  again  ;  I  will  go 
to  hjm."  On  his  arrival  he  cautioned  Back  against  the 
dangers  of  a  river  which  he  distinctly  told  him  the 
present  race  of  Indians  knew  nothing  of.  He  also 
warned  him  against  the  treachery  of  tlie  Esquimaux, 
which  he  said  was  always  masked  under  the  guise  of 
friendship,  observing  they  would  attack  him  when  ho 
least  expected  it.  "  I  am  afraid,"  continued  the  good 
old  chief,  "  that  I  shall  never  see  you  again ;  but  should 
you  escape  from  the  great  water,  take  care  you  are  not 
caught  by  the  winter,  and  thrown  into  a  situation  like 
that  in  which  you  were  on  your  return  from  the  Cop- 
permine, for  you  are  alone,  and  the  Indians  cannot 
assist  you." 

The  carpenters,  with  an  Iroquois,  not  being  further 
required,  were  dismissed  to  join  Mr.  McLeod,  and  on 
the  8th  of  July  they  proceeded  down  the  river.  The 
boat  was  now  launched  and  laden  with  her  cargo,  which, 
together  with  ten  persons,  she  stowed  well  enough  for 
a  smooth  river,  but  not  for  a  lake  or  sea  way.  The 
weight  was  calculated  at  3360  lbs.,  exclusive  of  the 
av'ning,  polos,  sails,  &c.,  and  the  crew. 


CAPTAIN  BACK  8   LAND  JOUKNEY. 


181 


Their  progress  to  the  sea  was  now  one  continncd  suc- 
cusHi(»ii  of  (Innt^crous  and  formidable  falls,  rapiflH,  and 
cataracts,  which  freqiientlv  made  Back  hold  his  breath, 
expecting  to  see  the  boat  (lashed  to  shivers  against  some 
protruding  rocks  amidst  the  foam  and  furv  at  the  foot 
of  a  rapid.  The  only  wonder  is  how  in  their  frail  leaky 
boat  they  ever  shot  one  of  the  rapids.  Rapid  after 
rapid,  and  fall  after  fall,  were  passed,  each  accomj.a- 
nied  with  more  or  less  danger  ;  and  in  one  instance  the 
boat  was  only  ^ed  by  all  hands  jumping  into  tlio 
breakers,  and  ping  her  stern  up  the  stream,  until 
she  was  cleared  from  a  rock  that  had  brought  .her  up. 

They  had  hardly  time  to  get  into  their  places  again, 
when  they  were  carried  with  considerable  velocity 
past  a  river  which  joined  from  the  westward.  After 
passing  no  less  than  five  rapids  within  the  distance  of 
three  miles,  they  came  to  one  long  and  appalling  one, 
full  of  rocks  and  lar^e  boulders  ;  the  sides  hemmed  in 
by  a  wall  of  ice,  and  the  current  flying  with  the  veloc- 
ity and  force  of  a  torrent.  The  boat  was  lightened  of 
her  cargo,  and  Capt.  Back  placed  himself  on  a  high 
rock,  with  an  anxious  desire  to  see  her  run  the  rapid. 
He  had  every  hope  which  confidence  in  the  judgment 
and  dexterity  of  his  principal  men  could  inspire,  but  it 
was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  one  crash  would  be  fatal 
to  the  expedition.  Away  they  went  with  the  speed  of 
an  arrow,  and  in  a  moment  the  foam  and  rocks  hid 
them  from  view.  Back  at  last  heard  what  sounded  in 
his  ear  like  a  wild  shriek,  and  he  saw  Dr.  King,  who 
was  a  hundred  yards  before  him,  make  a  sign  with  his 
gun,  and  then  run  forward.  Back  followed  with  an 
agitation  which  may  be  easily  conceived,  when  to  his 
inexpressible  joy  he  found  that  the  shriek  was  the  tri 
umpnant  whoop  of  the  crew,  who  had  landed  safely  in 
a  small  bay  below.  For  nearly  one  hundred  miles  of 
the  distance  they  were  impeded  by  these  frightful  whirl 
pools,  and  strong  and  heavy  rapids. 

On  opening  one  of  their  bags  of  pemmican,  the  in 
genuity  of  the  Indians  at  pilfering  was  discovered,  sue 
cessive  layers  of  mixed  sand,  stones,  and  green  mea 


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182 


ritOGRESS   OV   ARCTIC   DISCOVER  i'. 


having  been  artfully  and  cleverly  substituted  for  tho 
dry  meat.  Fearful  that  they  might  be  carrying  heaps 
of  stone  instead  of  provision,  Back  had  to  examine 
carefully  the  remainder,  which  were  all  found  sound 
and  well-tasted.  He  began  to  fear,  from  the  inclination 
of  the  river  at  one  time  toward  the  south,  that  it  would 
be  found  to  discharge  itself  in  Chesterfield  Inlet,  in 
Hudson's  Bay,  but  subsequently,  to  his  great  joy,  it 
took  a  direct  course  toward  the  north,  andnis  hopes  of 
reaching  the  Polar  Sea  were  revived.  The  river  now 
led  into  several  large  lakes,  some  studded  with  islands, 
which  were  named  successively  after  Sir  H.  Pelly,  and 
Mr.  Garry,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  two  others 
were  named  Lake  Macdougall  and  Lake  Franklin. 

On  the  28th  of  July,  they  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of  about 
thirty-five  very  friendly  Esquimaux,  who  aided  them 
in  transporting  their  boat  over  the  last  long  and  steep 
portage,  to  which  his  men  were  utterly  unequal,  and 
Back  justly  remarks,  to  their  kind  assistance  he  is 
mainly  indebted  for  getting  to  the  sea  at  all. 

It  was  late  when  they  got  away,  and  while  threading 
their  course  between  some  sand-banks  with  a  strong 
current,  they  first  caught  sight  of  a  majestic  headland 
in  the  extreme  distance  to  the  north,  which  had  a 
coast-like  appearance.  This  important  promontory. 
Back  subsequently  named  after  our  gracious  Queen, 
then  Princess  Victoria. 

"  This,  then,"  observes  Back,  "  may  be  considered  as 
the  mouth  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  which  after  a  violent 
and  tortuous  course  of  530  geographical  miles,  running 
through  an  iron-ribbed  country,  without  a  single  tree 
on  the  whole  line  of  its  banks,  expanding  into  five 
large  lakes,  with  clear  horizon,  most  embarrassing  to 
the  navigator,  and  broken  into  falls,  cascades,  and  rap- 
ids, to  the  number  of  eighty-three  in  the  whole,  pours 
its  water  into  the  Polar  Sea,  in  lat.  67°  11'  N.,  and  long. 
94°  30'  W.,  that  is  to  say,  about  thirty-seven  miles 
more  south  than  the  Coppermine  River,  and  nineteen 
miles  more  south  than  that  of  Back's  Eiver,  (of  Frank 
lin,)  at  the  lower  extremity  of  Bathurst's  Inlet." 


CAl'TAIN    BACKS   LAND  JOUUNEV. 


183 


k  or  several  iliiys  Back  was  abio  to  make  but  slow 
\  rof'ress  along  the  easteiii  shore,  in  consequence  of  the 
solid  body  of  drift-ice.  A  barren,  rocky  elevation  of 
800  feet  high,  was  named  Cape  Beaufort,  after  the 
present  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty.  A  bluff  point 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  estuary,  which  he  considered 
to  be  the  northern  extreme,  he  named  Cape  Hay. 
Dean  and  Simpson,  however,  in  1839,  traced  the  shore 
much  beyond  this.  The  difficulties  met  with  here,  be- 
ean  to  dispirit  the  men.  For  a  week  or  ten  days  they 
hud  a  continuation  of  wet,  chilly,  foggy  weather,  and 
tlie  only  vegetation,  fern  and  moss,  was  so  wet  that  it 
would  not  burn  ;  being  thus  without  fuel,  during  this 
time  they  had  but  one  hot  meal.  Almost  without 
water,  without  anv  means  of  warmth,  or  any  kind  of 
warm  or  comfortmg  food,  sinking  knee-deep,  as  they 

Sroceeded  on  land,  m  the  soft  slush  and  snow,  no  won- 
er  that  some  of  the  best  men,  benumbed  in  their  lim])s 
and  dispirited  by  the  dreary  and  unpromising  prospect 
before  tliem,  broke  out  for  a  moment,  in  low  murmur- 
ings,  that  theirs  was  a  hard  and  painful  duty. 

Captain  Back  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  proceed, 
as  he  had  intended,  to  the  Point  Tumagain  of  Franklin, 
and  after  vainly  essaying  a  land  expedition  by  three  of 
the  best  walkers,  and  these  having  returned,  after  mak- 
ing but  fifteen  miles'  way,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy 
rains  and  the  swampy  nature  of  the  ground,  he  came 
to  the  resolution  of  returning.  Reflecting,  he  says,  on 
the  long  and  dangerous  stream  they  had  to  ascend, 
combining  all  the  bad  features  of  the  worst  rivers  in 
the  country,  the  hazard  of  the  falls  and  the  rapids,  and 
the  slender  hope  which  remained  of  their  attaining 
even  a  single  mile  further,  he  felt  he  had  no  choice. 
Assembling,  therefore,  the  men  around  him,  and  un- 
furling the  British  flag,  which  was  saluted  with  three 
cheers,  he  announced  to  them  this  determination.  The 
latitude  of  this  place  was  68°  13'  67"  N.,  and  longitude 
94°  68'  1"  W.  The  extreme  point  seen  to  the  north- 
ward on  the  western  side  of  the  estuary,  in  latitude  68° 
46'  N.,  longitude  96°  20'  W.,  Back  named  Cape  Rich- 


i 


184 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


ardson.  The  spirits  of  many  of  the  men,  whose  health 
]ia<l  suffered  greatly  for  want  of  warm  and  nourishing 
food,  now  brightened,  and  they  set  to  work  with  alac- 
rity to  prepare  for  their  return  journey.  The  boat  be- 
ing dragged  across,  was  brought  to  the  place  of  their 
former  station,  after  which  the  crew  went  back  four 
miles  for  their  baggage.  The  whole  was  safely  con- 
veyed over  before  the  evening,  when  the  water-casks 
weie  broken  up  to  make  a  fire  to  warm  a  kettle  of 
cocoa,  the  second  hot  meal  they  had  had  for  nine  days. 

On  tl«)  15th  of  August,  they  managed  to  make  their 
way  about  twenty  miles,  on  their  return  to  the  south- 
ward, through  a  breach  in  the  ice,  till  they  came  to 
open  water.  The  difficulties  of  the  river  were  doubled 
in  the  ascent,  from  having  to  proceed  against  the  stream. 
All  the  obstacles  of  rocks,  rapids,  sand-banks,  and  long 
portages  had  to  be  faced.  In  some  days  as  many  as 
sixteen  or  twenty  rapids  were  ascended.  They  found, 
as  they  proceeded,  tnat  many  of  the  deposits  of  pro- 
visions, on  which  they  relied,  had  been  discovered  and 
destroyed  by  wolves.  On  the  16th  of  September,  they 
met  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  party,  who  had  been  several 
days  at  Sand  Hill  Bay,  waiting  for  them.  On  the  24th, 
they  reached  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  where  they  met  with 
some  Indians.  They  were  ultimately  stopped  by  one 
most  formidable  perpendicular  fall,  and  as  it  was  found 
impossible  to  convey  the  boat  further  over  so  rugged 
and  mountainous  a  country,  most  of  the  declivities  of 
which  were  coated  with  thin  ice,  and  the  whole  hidden 
by  snow,  it  was  here  abandoned,  and  the  party  pro- 
ceeded the  rest  of  the  journey  on  foot,  each  laden  with 
a  pack  of  about  75  lbs.  weight. 

Late  on  the  27th  of  September,  they  arrived  at  their 
old  habitation.  Fort  Reliance,  after  being  absent  nearly 
four  months,  wearied  indeed,  but  "  trmy  grateful  for 
the  manifold  mercies  they  had  experienced  in  the 
course  of  their  long  and  perilous  journey."  Arrange- 
ments were  now  made  to  pass  the  winter  as  comforta- 
bly as  their  means  would  permit,  and  as  there  was  no 
probability  that  there  would  Le  sufficient  food  in  the 


C( 

T 


lin 

so 

W( 

fie 


i 


CAPTAIN   back's   LAND  JOURNEY. 


185 


house  for  the  consumption  of  the  whole  party,  all  ex- 
cept six  were  sent  with  Mr.  JVlcLeod  to  the  fisheries. 
The  Indians  brought  them  provisions  from  time  to  time, 
and  their  friend  Akaitcho,  with  his  followers,  though 
not  very  successful  in  hunting,  was  not  wanting  in 
his  contributions.  This  old  cnieftain  was,  however, 
no  longer  the  same  active  and  important  personage  he 
had  been  in  the  days  when  he  rendered  such  good 
service  to  Sir  John  Franklin.  Old  age  and  infirmities 
were  creeping  on  him  and  rendering  him  peevish  and 
fickle. 

On  the  2l8t  of  March  following,  having  left-  direc- 
tions with  Dr.  King  to  proceed,  at  the  proper  season, 
to  the  Company's  factory  at  Hudson's  Bay,  to  embark 
for  England  in  their  spring  ships.  Captain  Back  set 
out  on  his  return  through  Canada,  calling  at  the  Fishe- 
ries to  bid  farewell  to  his  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  McLeod, 
and  arriving  at  the  Norway  House  on  the  24th,  where 
he  settled  and  arranged  the  accounts  due  for  stores, 
&c.,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  proceeded 
thence  to  New  York,  embarked  for  England,  and  ar- 
rived at  Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  September,  after  an 
absence  of  two  years  and  a  half.  Back  was  honored 
with  an  audience  of  his  Majesty,  who  expressed  his  ap- 
probation of  his  efforts  —  6rst  in  the  cause  of  human- 
ity, and  next  in  that  of  geographical  and  scientific  re- 
search. He  has  since  been  knighted  ;  and  in  1835,  the 
Itoyal  Geographical  Society  awarded  him  their  gold 
medal,  (the  Eoyal  premium,)  for  his  discovery  of  the 
Great  Fish  River,  and  navigating  it  to  the  sea  on  the 
arctic  coast. 

Dr.  King,  with  the  remainder  of  the  party,  (eight 
men,)  reached  England,  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's ship,  in  the  following  month,  October. 

Of  Captain  Back's  travels  it  has  been  justly  observed 
that  it  is  impossible  to  rise  from  the  perusal  of  them 
^^^ithout  being  struck  with  astonishment  at  the  extent  of 
sufferings  which  the  human  frame  can  endure,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  wondrous  display  of  fortitude  which  was 
exhibited  under  circumstances  of  so  appalling  a  nature, 


I 


180 


PB00RES8   OF   AliCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


l! 


as  to  invest  tho  narrative  with  tlie  character  of  a  roman- 
tic fiction,  rather  than  an  iinexaggerated  tale  of  actual 
reality.  lie,  however,  suftered  not  despair  nor  despon- 
dency to  overcome  him,  but  gallantly  and  undauntedly 
inirsued  his  course,  until  he  returned  to  his  native  land 
to  add  to  the  number  of  those  noble  spirits  whose  names 
will  bo  earned  to  posterity  as  the  brightest  ornaments 
to  the  country  which  gave  them  birth. 

Captain  Back's  Voyage  of  the  Terror. 

In  the  year  1836,  Captain  Back,  who  had  only  re- 
turned the  previous  autumn,  at  the  recommendation  of 
the  Geographical  Societpr,  undertook  a  voyage  in  tho 
Terror  up  Hudson's  Strait. 

He  was  to  reach  "Wager  River,  or  Eepulse  Bay,  and 
to  make  an  overland  journey,  to  examine  the  bottom 
of  Prince  Begent's  Inlet,  sending  other  parties  to  tho 
north  and  west  to  examine  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
Hecla,  and  to  reach,  if  possible,  Franklin's  Point  Turn- 
again. 

Leaving  England  on  the  14th  of  June,  he  an*ived  on 
the  14th  of  August  at  Salisbury  Island,  and  proceeded 
up  the  Frozen  Strait ;  off  Cape  Comfort  the  ship  got 
frozen  in,  and  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  by  one  of 
those  frequent  convulsions,  the  vessel  was  drifted  right 
uj)  the  Frozen  Channel,  grinding  large  heaps  that  op- 
posed her  progress  to  powder. 

From  December  to  March  she  was  driven  about  by 
the  fur^  of  the  storms  and  ice,  all  attempts  to  release 
her  being  ntterly  powerless.  She  thus  floated  till  tho 
10th  of  July,  and  for  three  days  was  on  her  beam-ends ; 
but  on  the  14th  she  suddenly  righted.  The  crazy  vessel 
with  her  gaping  wounds  was  scarcely  able  to  transport 
the  crew  across  the  stormy  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  but 
the  return  voyage  which  was  rendered  absolutely  neces- 
sary, was  fortunately  accomplished  safely. 

I  shall  now  give  a  concise  summary  of  Captain  Sir 
George  Back's  arctic  services,  so  as  to  present  it  more 
readily  to  the  reader: 


% 


j;l„i,:  »». 


DBASE   AND  HIMPSON  S   DISCOVERIES. 


187 


10 


In  1818  lio  was  Admiralty  Mate  on  board  the  Trent, 
viiidcr  Franklin.  In  1819  ho  again  accompanied  liiin 
dn  his  first  overland  journey,  and  was  with  him  in  all 
those  perilous  sufferings  which  are  elsewhere  narrated, 
lie  was  also  as  a  Lieutenant  with  Franklin  on  his  sec- 
/)nd  journey  in  1825.  Having  been  in  the  interval  ]>n> 
moted  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  he  proceeded,  in  183.*^, 
accompanied  by  Dr.  King  and  a  party,  through  North- 
ern America  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  ol  Captain 
John  Ross.  He  was  posted  on  the  30th  of  September, 
1835,  and  appointed  m  the  following  year  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Terror,  for  a  voyage  of  discovery  in  Hud- 
son's Bay. 

Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson's  Discwveries. 

In  1836  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  resolved  upon 
undertaking  the  completion  of  the  survey  of  the  north 
crn  coast  of  their  territories,  forming  the  shores  of 
Arctic  America,  and  small  portions  ot  which  were  lell 
undetermined  between  the  discoveries  of  Captains  Back 
and  Franklin. 

They  commissioned  to  this  task  two  of  their  officers, 
Mr.  Thomas  Simpson  and  Mr.  Peter  "Warren  Dease,  who 
were  sent  out  with  a  party  of  twelve  men  from  the  com 
pany's  chief  fort,  with  proper  aid  and  appliances.  De- 
scending the  Mackenzie  to  the  sea,  they  reached  and 
surveyed  in  July,  1837,  the  remainder  of  the  western 
part  of  the  coast  left  unexamined  by  Franklin  in  1825, 
from  his  Return  Reef  to  Cape  Barrow,  where  the  Bios 
som's  boats  turned  back. 

Proceeding  on  from  Return  Reef  two  new  rivers 
were  discovered, —  the  Gany  and  the  Colville;  the 
latter  more  than  a  thousand  miles  in  length.  Althougli 
it  was  the  height  of  summer,  the  ground  was  found 
frozen  several  inches  below  the  surface,  the  spray  froze 
on  the  oars  and  rigging  of  their  boats,  and  the  ice  lay 
smooth  and  solid  in  the  bays,  as  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

On  the  4th  of  August,  having  left  the  boats  and  pro- 
\;ceded  on  by  land,  Mr.  Simpson  arrived  at  Elson  Bay, 


.•¥ 


188 


PROOBESS  OF  A.RCriO  DISCXJVERY. 


r-i 


■ 


which  point  Lieutenant  Elson  had  reached  in  the  Blos- 
som's barge  in  1826. 

The  party  now  returned  to  winter  at  Fort  Confidence, 
on  Great  'feear  Lake,  whence  they  were  instructed  to 
prosecute  their  search  to  the  eastward  next  season,  and 
to  communicate  if  possible  with  Sir  George  Back's 
expedition. 

They  left  their  winter  quarters  on  the  6th  of  June, 
1838,  and  descended  Dease's  River.  They  found  the 
Coppermine  River  much  swollen  by  floods,  and  encum- 
bered with  masses  of  floating  ice.  The  rapids  they  had 
to  pass  were  very  perilous,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the 
following  graphic  description; — 

"  We  had  to  pull  for  our  lives  to  keep  out  of  the  suc- 
tion of  the  precipices,  along  whose  base  the  breakers 
raged  and  foamed  with  overwhelming  fury.  Shortly 
before  noon,  we  came  in  sight  of  Escape  Rapid  ot* 
Franklin ;  and  a  glance  at  the  overhanging  clift'  told  us 
that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  run  down  with  a 
full  cargo.  Li  an  instant,"  continues  Mr.  Simpson, "  we 
were  in  the  vortex ;  and  before  we  were  aware,  my  boat 
was  borne  toward  an  isolated  rock,  which  the  boiling 
surge  almost  concealed.  To  clear  it  on  the  outside  was 
ne  longer  possible ;  our  only  chance  of  safety  was  to 
run  between  it  and  the  lofty  eastern  clift*.  The  word 
was  passed,  and  every  breath  was  hushed.  A  stream 
which  dashed  down  upon  us  over  the  brow  of  the  prcci 
pice  more  than  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  mingled  with 
the  spray  that  whirled  upward  from  the  rapid,  forming 
a  terrific  shower-bath.  The  pass  was  about  eight  feet 
wide,  and  the  error  of  a  single  foot  on  either  side  would 
have  been  instant  destruction.  As,  guided  by  Sinclair's 
consummate '  skill,  the  boat  shot  safely  through  those 
jaws  of  death,  an  involuntary  cheer  arose.  Our  next 
impulse  was  to  turn  round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  com- 
rades behind.  They  had  profited  by  the  peril  we  in- 
curred, and  kept  without  the  treacherous  rock  in  time." 

On  the  1st  of  July  they  reached  the  sea,  and  en- 
camped at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  they  waited 
for  the  openiug  of  the  ice  till  the  17th.    They  doubled 


l 


DKAHh    AND   SIMl'riO-N  H    DISCOVKUIKS. 


ISO 


we 


om- 
in- 


ited 
)led 


Cupu  Barrow,  one  of  the  northern  points  of  Butliurst'n 
Inlet,  on  the  2i)th,  but  were  prevented  eroyaing  the  inlet 
1)V  the  continuity  of  the  ice,  and  obliged  to  make  a 
circuit  of  nearly  160  miles  by  Arctic  Sound. 

Some  very  pure  specimens  of  copper  ore  were  found 
on  one  of  the  Barry  Islands.  After  doubling  Capo 
Flinders  on  the  Oth  of  August,  the  boats  were  arrested 
by  the  ice  in  a  little  bay  to  which  the  name  of  Boat 
ilaven  was  given,  situate  about  three  miles  from  Frank- 
lin's farthest,  llere  the  boats  lingered  for  the  best 
l)art  of  a  month,  in  utter  hopelessness.  Mr.  Simpson 
l)ushed  on  therefore  on  the  20tli,  with  an  exploring  party 
of  seven  men,  provisioned  for  ten  days.  On  the  first 
day  they  passed  Point  Turnagain,  the  limit  of  Frank- 
lin's survey  in  1821.  On  the  23d  they  had  reached  an 
elevated  cape,  with  land  apparently  closing  all  round 
to  the  northward,  so  that  it  was  feared  they  had  only 
licen  traversing  the  coast  of  a  huge  bay.  But  the 
l)erseverance  of  the  adventurous  explorer  was  fully  re- 
warded. 

"AVith  bitter  disappointment,"  writes  Mr.  Simpson, 
"  1  ascended  the  height,  from  whence  a  vast  and  splen- 
did prospect  burst  suddenly  upon  me.  The  sea,  as  if 
transformed  by  enchantment,  rolled  '■  ;  tierce  waves  at 
my  feet,  and  beyond  the  reach  of  vision  o  the  eastwai-d, 
Islands  of  various  shape  and  size  overspread  its  surface ; 
and  the  northern  land  tenninated  to  the  eye  in  a  bold 
and  lofty  cape,  bearing  east  northejist,  thirty  or  forty- 
miles  distant,  while  the  continental  coast  trended  away 
suntheast.  I  stood,  in  fact,  on  a  remarkable  headland, 
at  the  eastern  outlet  of  an  ice-obstructe<l  strait.  On  the 
extensive  land  to  the  northward  I  bestowed  the  name 
of  our  most  gracious  sovereign  Queen  Victoria.  Its 
eastern  visible  extremity  I  called  Cape  Pelly,  in  com- 
pliment to  the  governor  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company." 

Having  reached  the  limits  which  prudence,  dictated 
in  the  face  of  the  long  journey  back  to  the  boats,  many 
of  his  men  too  being  lame,  Mr.  Simpson  retraced  his 
eteps,  and  the  party  reached  Boat-haven  on  the  20th  of 
August,  having  traced  nearly  140  miles  of  new  coast. 


'f 


190 


rUCKJKIiSS   OK   AKCriC    IHSCOVKKY. 


The  boats  were  cut  out  of  tlieir  icy  prison,  and  com 
nienced  their  re-ascent  of  the  Coj)i)ernilne  on  tlie  3il  oi 
September.  At  its  junction  with  the  Kendal  lliver  thvy 
lett  their  boats,  and  shouldering  their  packs,  traversed 
the  barren  grounds,  and  arrived  at  their  resilience  on 
tlic  lake  l)y  the  14tii  of  September. 

The  following  season  these  persevering'  explorers  com- 
menced tiieir  tliird  voyage.  Thev  readied  the  lilomly 
Fall  on  the  22d  of  June,  1839,  and  occupied  themselves 
for  a  week  in  carefully  examining  liichardson's  llivt  r, 
which  was  discovered  in  the  previous  year,  and  dis- 
charges itself  in  the  head  of  Back's  Inlet.  On  the  od 
of  July  they  reached  Cape  Barrow,  and  from  its  rocky 
lieights  were  surprised  to  observe  Coronation  Gulf 
almost  clear  of  ice,  while  on  their  former  visit  it  could 
have  been  crossed  on  tb(.»t. 

They  were  at  Cape  Franklin  a  month  earlier  than 
Mr.  Simpson  reached  it  on  foot  tlio  ])revion8  year,  and 
doubled  Cape  Alexander,  the  northennnost  cape  in  this 
quarter,  on  the  28th  of  July,  after  encountering  a  vio- 
lent gale.  They  coasted  the  huge  bay  extending  i'vv 
about  nine  degrees  eastw^ard  from  this  point,  being  fa- 
vored with  clear  weather,  and  protectecl  by  the  various 
islands  they  met  from  the  crushing  state  of  the  i<*e 
drifted  from  seaward. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  opened  a  strait  about 
ten  miles  wide  at  each  extremity,  but  narrowing  to  lour 
or  five  miles  in  the  center.  This  strait,  which  divides 
the  main-land  from  Boothia,  has  been  called  Simpson's 
Strait. 

On  the  13th  of  Augiist  they  had  passed  Richardson's 
Point  and  doid3led  Point  Ogle,  the  furthest  point  of 
Back's  journey  in  1834. 

By  the  16th  they  had  reached  Montreal  Island  in 
Back's  Estnary,  where  they  found  a  deposit  of  ]iro- 
visions  which  Captain  Back  bad  left  there  that  day  li\  o 
years.  The  pemmican  was  unlit  tor  use,  but  out  of 
several  pounds  of  chocolate  half  decayed  the  men  con- 
trived to  pick  sufficient  to  make  a  kettleful  acceptable 
drink  in  honor  of  the  occasion.    There  were  also  a  tin 


DEASK   AND   SIMI'SON  8   D1SCOVEUIE8. 


191 


cape  and  a  few  fifih-liooks,  of  wliich,  observes  Mr. 
Simpson,  "AFr.  Dcaso  and  I  took  ptKSsessiun,  as  memo- 
rials of  our  Ijavinp^  breakfasted  on  the  very  spot  wliero 
the  tent  of  our  gallant,  thcjugh  less  successful  precursor 
stood  that  very  day  live  years  before. 

By  the  20th  of  August  they  had  reached  as  far  as 
Aberdeen  Island  to  the  eastward,  from  which  they  had 
a  view  of  an  apparently  large  gulf,  corresponding  with 
that  which  hacf  been  so  correctly  described  to  Parry  by 
the  intelligent  Esquimaux  female  as  Akkolec. 

From  a  mcuntamous  ridge  about  thuce  miles  inland 
a  view  of  la'tA  in  the  northeast  was  obtained  supposed 
to  be  one  of  the  southern  promontories  of  Boothia. 
Iligli  and  distant  islands  stretching  from  E.  to  E.  N.  E. 
(prol)ab]y  some  in  Committee  Bay)  were  seen,  and  two 
cunsidera'olc  ones  were  noted  far  out  in  the  offing. 
Remembering  the  length  and  difficulty  of  their  return 
route,  the  explorera  now  retraced  their  steps.  On  their 
return  voyage  they  traced  sixty  miles  of  the  south  coast 
of  Boothia,  where  at  one  time  they  were  not  more  than 
ninety  miles  from  the  site  of  the  magnetic  pole,  as  de- 
termined by  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross.  On  the  25th 
of  August  they  erected  a  high  cairn  at  their  farthest 
point,  near  Cape  Ilerscliel. 

About  150  miles  of  the  high,  bold  shores  of  Victoria 
Land,  as  far  as  Ca])e  Parry,  were  also  examined; 
AVellington,  Cambridge,  and  Byron  Bays  being  sur- 
veyed and  accurately  laid  down.  They  then  stretched 
across  Coronation  Gulf,  and  re-entered  the  Copper- 
mine River  on  the  IGth  of  September. 

Abandoning  here  one  of  their  boats,  with  the  re- 
mains of  their  useless  stores  and  other  articles  not 
required,  they  ascended  the  river  and  reached  Fort 
Confidence  on  the  24th  of  September,  after  one  of  the 
longest  and  most  successful  boat  voyages  ever  per- 
formed on  the  Polar  Sea,  having  traversed  more  than 
1600  miles  of  sea. 

In  1838,  before  the  intelligence  of  this  last  trip 
had  been  received,  Mr.  Simpson  was  presented  by 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London  with  the 


192 


rkOOKEbS   OF   AKCTIC    DItJCOVKUY. 


I 


F(nmder'fl  Gold  Medal,  for  diHcovcring  and  tracing  lu 
1837  and  1838  about  300  miles  of  tlie  arctic  chorea; 
but  the  voyage  which  I  have  just  recorded  has  added 
greatly  to  the  laurels  which  ho  and  his  bold  compan- 
ions have  achieved. 

Dr.  Joun  Rae's  Land  Expedition,  18-16^7. 

Althouoii  a  little  out  of  its  chronological  order,  I 
give  Dr.  Kao's  exjiloring  trip  before  I  proceed  to  no- 
tice'  Franklin's  last  voyage,  and  the  different  relief 
expeditions  that  have  been  sent  out  during  the  past 
two  years. 

In  1846  the  Hudson's  Company  dispatched  an  ex- 
pedition of  thirteen  persons,  under  the  command  of 
Dr.  John  Rae,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  unex- 
plored portion  of  the  arctic  coast  at  the  northeastern 
angle  of  the  American  continent  between  Dease  and 
Simpson's  farthest,  and  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
llecla. 

The  expedition  left  Fort  Churchill,  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  on  the  5th  of  July,  1846,  and  returned  in  safety 
to  York  Factory  on  the  6th  September  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  after  having,  by  traveling  over  ice  and  snow 
in  the  spring,  traced  the  coast  all  the  way  from  the 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay  of  Sir  John  Ross  to  within  eight 
or  ten  miles  of  the  Fury  and  Ilecla  Strait,  thus  prov- 
ing that  eminent  navigator  to  have  been  correct  in 
stating  Boothia  to  be  a  peninsula. 

On  the  15t}i  of  July  the  boats  first  fell  in  with  the 
ice,  about  ten  miles  north  of  Cape  Fullerton,  and  it 
was  so  heavy  and  closely  packed  that  they  were 
obliged  to  take  shelter  in  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet 
that  opportunely  presented  itself,  where  they  were 
closed  up  two  days. 

On  the  22d  the  party  reached  the  most  southerly 
opening  of  Wager  River  or  Bay,  but  were  detained 
the  whole  day  by  the  immense  quantities  of  heavy  ice 
driving  in  and  out  with  the  flood  and  ebb  of  the  tide, 
which  ran  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  forcing  up 


DR.   JUIIN    KAL8    LAND   KXTKIU'lION. 


11)3 


the  ico  "and  i]^rin(lin<^  it  n'^ainst  tho  rocks  witli  a  noiao 
like  thunder.  )n  the  nij^lit  of  tho  'J4lh  tlie  bouts 
nncliorcd  at  tlio  head  «)t'the  Uc])ulHe  Ihiy.  The  tullow- 
ing  day  they  anchored  in  Gibson's  Cove,  on  the  banks 
ot*  which  they  met  with  a  small  party  of  Ktj(|uiinaux  ; 
several  of  the  women  woro  beacis  round  tlieir  wrists, 
which  thev  had  obtained  from  Captain  J'arry's  sliip 
when  at  Igloolik  and  Winter  Island,  liut  they  iiad 
neither  heard  nor  seen  anything  of  Sir  .l<»hn  Franklin. • 

Learning  from  a  chart  drawn  by  one  of  the  natives, 
that  the  istlimus  of  Melville  peninsula  was  only  about 
forty  miles  across,  and  that  of  this,  owing  to  a  nuniljer 
of  large  lakes,  but  live  miles  of  land  would  have  to  be 
passed  over.  Dr.  Kao  determined  to  make  his  way 
over  this  neck  in  preference  to  proceeding  by  I  jx's 
Channel  through  the  Fury  and  Ilecla  Strait. 

One  boat  was  therefore  laid  up  with  her  cargo  in 
security,  and  with  the  other  the  party  set  out,  assisted 
by  three  Esquimaux.  After  traversing  several  large 
lakes,  and  crossing  over  six  "  portages,"  on  the  2d  of 
August  they  got  into  tho  salt  water,  in  Committee 
Bay,  but  being  able  to  make  but  little  progress  to  tho 
northwest,  in  consequence  of  heavy  gales  and  closely 
packed  ice,  he  returned  to  his  starting  point,  and  made 
preparations  for  wintering,  it  being  found  impossible 
to  proceed  with  the  survey  at  that  time.  The  other 
boat  was  brought  across  the  isthmus,  and  all  hands 
were  set  to  work  in  making  preparations  for  a  long 
and  cold  winter. 

As  no  wood  was  to  be  had,  stones  were  collected  to 
build  a  house,  which  was  finished  by  the  2d  of  Sep- 
tember. Its  dimensions  were  twenty  feet  by  fourteen, 
and  about  eight  feet  high.  The  roof  was  formed  of 
oil-cloths  and  morse-skin  coverings,  the  masts  and 
oars  of  the  boats  serving  as  rafters,  while  the  door 
was  made  of  parchment  skins  stretched  over  a  wooden 
frame. 

The  deer  had  already  commenced  migrating  south- 
ward, but  whenever  he  had  leisure,  Dr.  Eae  shoul- 
dered his  rifle,  and  had  frequently  good  success,  shoot- 


II 


«i 


I .' 


'  i 


194 


PKOORESS  OF  AUCJTIC   DISCOVERY. 


'')     ' 


ing  on  one  day  seven  deer  within  two  miles  of  their 
encampment. 

On  the  16th  of  October,  the  thermometer  fell  to 
zero,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  reindeer  had  passed ; 
but  the  party  uad  by  this  time  shot  130,  and  during 
the  remainder  of  Ociober,  and  in  November,  thirty- 
two  more  were  killed,  so  that  with  200  partridges  and 
a  few  salmon,  their  snow-built  larder  was  pretty  well 
stocked. 

Suj0icient  fuel  had  been  collected  to  last,  with  econ- 
omy, for  cooking,  until  the  spring ;  and  a  couple  of 
seals  which  had  been  shot  produced  oil  enough  for 
their  lamps.  By  nets  set  in  the  lakes  under  the  ice,  a 
few  salmon  were  also  caught. 

After  passing  a  very  stormy  winter,  with  the  tem- 
perature occasionally  47°  below  freezing  point,  and 
often  an  allowance  of  but  one  meal  a  day,  toward  the 
end  of  February  preparations  for  resuming  their  sur- 
veys in  the  spring  were  made.  Sleds,  simuar  to  those 
used  by  the  natives,  were  constructed.  In  the  begin- 
ning 01  March  the  reindeer  began  to  migrate  north- 
ward, but  were  very  shv.  One  was  shot  on  the  11th. 
Dr.  Rae  set  out  on  the  6th  of  April,  in  company 
with  three  men  and  two  Esquimaux  as  interpreters, 
their  provisions  and  bedding  being  drawn  on  sleds  by 
four  dogs.  Nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurs  in  this 
exploratory  trip,  till  on  the  18th  Kae  came  in  sight  of 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay,  and  the  group  of  islands  with  which 
it  is  studded.  The  isthmus  which  connects  the  land 
to  the  northward  with  Boothia,  he  found  to  be  only  about 
a  mile  broad.  On  their  return  the  party  fortunately  fell 
in  with  four  Esquimaux,  from  whom  they  obtained  a 
quantity  of  seal's  blubber  for  fuel  and  dog's  food,  and 
some  of  the  flesh  and  blood  for  their  own  use,  enough 
to  maintain  them  for  six  days  on  half  allowance. 

All  the  party  were  more  or  less  affected  with  snow 
blindness,  but  arrived  at  their  winter  quarters  in  Re- 
pulse Bay  on  the  6th  of  May,  all  safe  and  well,  but  as 
black  as  negroes,  from  the  combined  effects  of  frost- 
bites and  oil  smoke. 


L      .   ^^ 


;iO) 


DR.   JOHN   KAKS   LAND   KXPEDITION. 


195 


On  the  evening  of  the  13th  Ma}-,  Dr.  Rao  again 
started  with  a  cliosen  party  of  four  men,  to  trace  the 
west  shore  of  Melville  peninsula.  Each  of  the  men 
carried  about  70  lbs.  weight. 

Being  unable  to  obtain  a  drop  of  water  of  nature's 
thawing,  and  fuel  being  rather  a  scarce  article,  they 
were  obliged  to  take  small  kettles  of  snow  under  the 
blankets  with  them,  to  thaw  by  the  heat  of  the  body. 

Having  reached  to  about  69°  42'  N.  lat.,  and  85°  8' 
long.,  and  their  provisions  being  nearly  exhausted, 
they  were  obliged,  much  to  their  disappointment,  to 
turn  back,  when  only  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Hecla 
and  Fury  Strait.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  30th 
of  May,  the  party  arrived  at  their  snow  hut  on  Cape 
Thomas  Simpson.  The  men  they  had  left  there  were 
well,  but  very  thin,  as  they  had  neither  caught  nor 
shot  any  thing  eatable,  except  two  marmots,  and  they 
were  preparing  to  cook  a  piece  of  parchment  skin  for 
their  supper. 

"  Our  journey,"  says  Dr.  Rae,  "  hitherto  had  been 
the  most  fatiguing  I  had  ever  experienced ;  the  severe 
exercise,  with  a  limited  allowance  of  food,  had  reduced 
the  whole  party  very  much.  However,  we  marched 
merrily  c.i,  tightening  our  belts — mine  came  in  six 
inches  —  the  men  vowing  that  when  they  got  on  full 
allowance,  they  would  make  up  for  lost  time." 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  June,  they  arrived  at 
their  encampment  in  Repulse  Bay,  after  being  absent 
twenty-seven  days.  The  whole  party  then  set  actively 
to  work  procuring  food,  collecting  fuel,  and  preparing 
the  boats  for  sea ;  and  the  ice  in  the  bay  having  broken 
up  on  the  11th  of  August,  on  the  12th  they  left  their 
winter  quarters,  and  after  encountering  head  winds 
and  stormy  weather,  reached  Churchill  River  on  the 
31st  of  August. 

A  gratuity  of  4:001.  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Rae,  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  the  important  services  he 
had  thus  rendered  to  the  cause  of  science. 


f 


v.: 


111 


19G 


PKOGRKSS    OK    AKCTIC    ]>IbCOVKKV 


Captain  Sir  John  Frank lin's  Last  Expedition, 

1845-51. 

That  Sir  John  Franklin,  now  nearly  six  years  ab- 
sent, is  alive,  we  dare  not  affirm ;  bnt  that  his  ships 
should  be  so  utterly  annihilated  that  no  trace  of  them 
can  be  discovered,  or  if  they  have  been  so  entirely 
lost,  that  not  a  single  life  should  have  been  saved  to 
relate  the  disaster,  and  that  no  traces  of  the  crew  or 
vessels  should  have  been  met  with  by  the  Esquimaux, 
or  the  exploring  parties  who  have  visited  ana  investi- 
gated those  coasts,  and  bays,  and  inlets  to  so  consid- 
erable an  extent,  is  a  most  extraordinary  circumstance. 
It  is  the  general  belief  of  those  officers  who  have 
served  in  the  former  arctic  expeditions,  that  whatever 
accident  may  have  befallen  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
they  cannot  wholly  have  disappeared  from  those  seas, 
and  that  some  traces  of  their  fale,  if  not  some  living 
remnant  of  their  crews,  must  eventually  reward  the 
search  of  the  diligent  investigator.  It  is  possible  that 
they  may  be  found  in  quartei*s  the  least  expected. 
There  is  stil]  reason,  then,  for  hoj^e^  and  for  the  great 
and  honorable  exertions  which  that  divine  spark  in 
the  soul  has  prompted  and  still  keeps  alive. 

"There  is  something,"  says  the  Athenseum,  "in- 
■lensely  interesting  in  the  picture  of  those  dreary  seas 
amid  whose  strange  and  unspeakable  solitudes  our  lost 
countrymen  are,  or  have  been,  somewhere  imprisoned 
for  so  many  years,  swarming  with  the  human  life  that 
is  risked  to  set  them  free.  No  haunt  was  ever  so  ex- 
citing—  so  full  of  a  wild  grandeur  and  a  profound 
pathos  —  as  that  which  had  just  aroused  the  arctic 
echoes ;  that  wherein  their  brothers  and  companions 
have  been  beating  for  the  track  by  which  they  may 
rescue  the  lost  mariners  from  the  icy  grasp  of  the  Ge- 
nius of  the  North.  Fancy  these  men  in  their  adaman 
tine  prison,  wherever  it  may  be,  —  chained  up  by  tha 
polar  spirit  whom  they  had  dared,  —  lingering  through 
years  of  cold  and  darkness  on  the  stinted  ration  that 
scarcely  feeds  the  blood,  and   the  feeble  hope  that 


■% 


fkanklin's  last  expedition. 


197 


scarcely  sustains  the  heart,  —  and  then  imagine  the  rush 
of  emotions  to  greet  the  first  cty  from  that  wild  hunting 
ground  which  should  reach  their  ears !  Through  many 
Kummers  has  that  cry  been  listened  tor,  no  doubt. 
Something  like  an  expectation  of  the  rescue  which  it 
should  announce  has  revived  with  each  returning  sea- 
fion  of  comparative  light,  to  die  of  its  own  baffled  in- 
tensity as  the  long  dark  monlJis  once  more  settled  down 
upon  their  dreary  prison-house. — There  is  scarcely  a 
doubt  that  the  track  being  now  struck,  these  long- 
])ining  hearts  may  be  traced  to  their  lair.  But  what  to 
the  anxious  questioning  which  has  year  by.  year  gone 
forth  in  search  of  their  fate,  will  be  the  answer  now 
revealed  ?  The  trail  is  found,  —  but  what  of  the  weary 
feet  that  made  it?  We  are  not  willing  needlessly  to 
alarm  the  public  sympathies,  which  have  been  so  gene- 
rously stirred  on  behalf  of  the  missing  men,  —  but  we 
are  bound  to  warn  our  readers  against  too  sanguine  an 
entertainment  of  the  hope  which  the  first  tidings  of  the 
recent  discovery  is  calculated  to  suggest.  It  is  scarcely 
possible  that  the  provisions  which  are  sufficient  for  three 
years,  and  adaptable  for  four,  can  by  any  economy 
which  implies  less  than  starvation  have  been  spread 
over  five,  —  and  scarcely  probable  that  thev  can  have 
Ijeen  made  to  do  so  by  the  help  of  any  accidents  which 
the  place  of  confinement  supplied.  We  cannot  hear  of 
this  sudden  discovery  of  traces  of  the  vanished  crews  as 


living 


men,  without  a  wish  which  comes  like  a 


pang 


that  it  had  been  two  years  ago  —  or  even  last  year.  It 
makes  the  heart  sore  to  think  how  close  relief  may  have 
been  to  their  hiding-place  in  former  years  —  when  it 
turned  away.  There  is  scarcely  reason  to  doubt  that 
had  the  present  circumstances  of  the  search  occurred 
two  years  ago  —  last  year  perhaps  —  the  wanderers 
would  have  been  restored.  Another  year  makes  a 
frightful  diflference  in  the  odds  :  —  and  we  do  not  think 
the  public  will  ever  feel  satisfied  with  what  has  been 
dene  in  this  matter  if  the  oracle  so  long  questioned,  and 
silent  so  long,  shall  speak  at  last  —  and  the  answer  shall 
be,  *  It  is  too  late.'  " 


-1 


!"- 

J  - 

I 


198 


TROGEESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


It    W 


In  the  prosecution  of  the  noble  enterprise  on  which 
all  eyes  are  now  turned,  it  is  not  merely  scientific  re- 
search and  geographical  discovery  that  are  at  present 
occupying  the  attention  of  the  commanders  of  vessels 
Bent  out ;  the  lives  of  human  beinss  are  at  stake,  and 
abojpB  all,  the  lives  of  men  who  nave  nobly  periled 
every  thing  in  the  cause  of  national  —  nay,  of  universal 
progress  and  knowledge  ;  — .of  men  who  have  evinced 
on  this  and  other  expeditions  the  most  dauntless  bra- 
very that  any  men  can  evince.  Who  can  think  of  the 
probable  fate  of  these  gallant  adventurers  without  a 
shudder? 

Alas  I  how  truthfully  has  Montgomery  depicted  the 
fatal  imprisonment  of  vessels  in  these  regions  :  — 

There  lies  a  vessel  in  that  realm  of  frost. 
Not  wrecked,  not  stranded,  yet  forever  lost ; 
Its  keel  embedded  in  the  soUd  mass ; 
Its  glistening  sails  appear  expanded  glass ; 
The  transverse  ro{)es  with  pearls  enormous  strongs 
The  yards  with  icicles  grotesquely  hung. 
Wrapt  in  the  topmast  shrouds  there  rests  a  boy. 
His  old  sea-fEuing  father's  only  joy ; 
Sprune'  from  a  race  of  rovers,  ocean  bom,     .  ^ 

Nursed  at  the  helm,  he  trod  dry  land  widi  scorn , 
Through  foui-score  years  from  port  to  port  he  ve^d ; 
Quicksand,  nor  rock,  nor  foe,  nor  tempest  fear'd ; 
Now  cast  ashore,  though  like  a  hulk  he  lie, 
His  son  at  sea  is  ever  m  his  eye. 
He  ne'er  shall  know  in  his  Northumbrian  cot, 
How  bi-ief  that  son's  career,  how  strange  his  lot ; 
Writhed  round  the  mast^  aud  sepulchrra  in  air. 
Him  shall  no  worm  devour,  no  vulture  tear ; 
Congeal'd  to  adamant  his  frame  shall  last, 
Though  empires  change,  till  tide  and  time  be  past 
Mom  shall  return,  and  noon,  and  eve,  and  night 
Meet  here  with  interchanging  shade  and  light ; 
But  from  that  barque  no  timber  shall  decay, 
Of  these  cold  forms  no  feature  pass  away ;  ' 

Perennial  ice  around  th»  encrusted  bow. 
The  peoplcd-deck,  and  fuU-rigg'd  mast  shall  grow 
Till  from  the  sun  himself  the  whole  be  hid. 
Or  spied  beneath  a  crystal  pyramid :  «. 

As  in  pure  amber  with  divergent  lines,  v 

A  mgged  shell  embossed  with  sea-weeid,  shines^ 
From  age  to  ago  increased  with  annual  snow. 
This  now  Mont  Blane  among  the  clouds  may  glow, 
Whose  conic  peak  that  earliest  greets  the  dawn. 
And  latest  from  the  sun's  shut* eye  withdrawn, 


FRANiaJN's   LAST  EXPEDITION. 


199 


Shall  from  the  Zenith,  tlirough  incumbent  gloom, 
Burn  like  a  lump  upon  this  naval  tomb. 
But  when  th'  archangel's  trumpet  sounds  on  high, 
The  pile  sliall  burst  tu  atoms  through  the  sky, 
And  leave  its  dead,  upstarting  at  the  call. 
Naked  and  pale,  before  the  Judge  of  alL 

All  who  read  these  pages  will,  I  am  sure,  feel  the 
deepest  sympathy  and  admiration  of  the  zeal,  persever- 
ance, and  conjugal  aiiection  displayed  in  the  noble  and 
untiring  efforts  of  Lady  Franklin  to  relieve  or  to  dis- 
cover the  fate  of  her  distinguished  husband  and  the  gal- 
lant party  under  his  command,  despite  the  difficulties, 
disappointments,  and  heart-sickening  "hope  deferred" 
with  which  these  efforts  have  been  attended.  All  men 
must  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  fate  of  these  bold  men, 
and  be  most  desirous  to  contribute  toward  their  resto- 
ration to  their  country  and  their  homes.  The  name  of 
the  present  Lady  Franklin  is  as  "familiar  as  a  house- 
hold word  "  in  every  bosom  in  England  ;  she  is  alike 
the  object  of  our  admiration,  our  sympathy,  our  hopes, 
and  our  prayers.  Nay,  her  name  and  that  of  her  hus- 
band is  breathed  in  prayer  in  many  lands — and,  oh! 
how  earnest,  how  zealous,  how  courageous,  have  been 
her  efforts  to  find  and  relieve  her  husband,  for,  like 
Desdemona, 

"  She  loved  him  for  the  dangers  he  had  passed. 
And  he  loved  her  that  she  did  pity  them." 

IIow  has  she  traversed  from  port  to  port,  bidding  "  God 
epeed  their  mission  "  to  each  public  and  private  ship 
going  forth  on  the  noble  errand  of  mercy  —  how  freely 
and  promptly  has  she  contributed  to  their  comforts. 
IIow  has  she  watched  each  arrival  from  the  north, 
scanned  each  stray  paragraph  of  news,  hurried  to  the 
Admiralty  on  each  rumor,  and  kept  up  with  unremit- 
ting labor  a  voluminous  correspondence  with  all  the 
quarters  of  the  globe,  fondly  wishing  that  she  had  tho 
wings  of  the  dove,  that  she  might  flee  away,  and  be 
with  him  from  whom  Heaven  has  seen  tit  to  separate 
her  so  long. 

An  American  poet  well  depicts  her  sentiments  in  tliQ 
foJV)winff  lines :  — 


U   1 


li 


200 


VliOOUKSS   OF    AUCriC   DISCOVKUY. 


i 

ill 


ii 


m 


LADY  FRANKLIN'S  APPEAL  TO  THE  NORTH. 

Oh,  whero,  my  long  lost-oiio  I  nrt  thou, 

'Mid  Arctic  seas  iind  wintry  skiofl  ? 
Deep,  Polar  night  in  on  me  now, 

And  Hope,  long  wrcckutl,  but  mocks  my  orui 
I  am  like  tnev  1  from  frozen  plainH 

In  the  drcnr  zone  and  muilewi  air. 
My  dying,  lonely  heart  complainH, 

And  chills  in  sorrow  and  despair. 

Tell  me,  ye  Northern  winds  I  that  sweep 

Down  from  the  rayless,  dusky  day  — 
Where  ye  have  borne,  and  whero  ye  keep. 

My  well-beloved  within  your  sway ; 
Tell  me,  when  next  y^  wildly  bear 

The  icy  message  in  your  breath, 
Of  my  beloved  I    Oh  toll  me  where 

Te  keep  him  on  the  shores  of  death. 

Toll  me,  ye  Pokr  seas  I  that  roll 

From  ice-bound  shore  to  sunny  isle  — 
Tell  me,  when  next  ye  leave  the  Pole, 

Where  ye  have  chained  ray  lord  the  while  I 
On  the  bleak  Northern  cliff  I  wait 

With  tear-pained  eyes  to  see  ye  come  I 
Will  ye  not  tell  me,  ere  too  late  ? 

Or  will  ye  mock  while  I  am  dumb  ? 

Tell  me,  oh  tell  me,  mountain  waves  I 

Whence  have  ye  leaped  and  sprung  to-day  f 
Have  ye  passed  o'er  their  sleeping  graves 

That  ye  nish  wildly  on  your  way  ? 
Will  ye  sweep  on  and  bear  me  too 

Down  to  the  caves  within  the  deep  ? 
Oh,  bring  some  token  to  my  view 

That  ye  my  loved  one  safe  will  keepl 

Canst  thou  not  toll  me.  Polar  Star  I 

Where  in  the  frozen  waste  he  kneels  T 
And  on  the  icy  plains  afar 

His  love  to  Qod  and  me  reveals  T 
Wilt  thou  not  send  one  brighter  ray 

To  my  lone  heart  and  aching  eye  ? 
Wilt  thou  not  turn  my  night  to  day. 

And  wake  my  spint  ere  I  die  ? 

Tell  me,  oh  dreary  North  I  for  now 

My  soul  is  like  thine  Arctic  zone ; 
Beneath  the  darkened  skies  I  bow; 

Or  ride  the  stonny  sea  alone  I 
Tell  me  of  my  beloved  !  for  I 

Know  not  a  ray  my  lord  without ! 
Oh,  tell  me,  that  I  may  not  die 

A  sorrower  on  the  sea  of  doubt ! 


> 


-A^"^^ 


-k«';_iL£-..4-.i.-..- 


FRANKLIN  8   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


201 


In  tlio  earl^  part  of  1849,  Sir  E.  Parry  stated,  tlmJ 
in  oficring  his  opinions,  lie  did  so  under  a  deep  sensc 
of  the  anxious  and  even  painful  responsiMlity,  ooth  at? 
rcf^arded  the  risk  of  life,  as  well  as  the  inferior  coiisid 
(^ration  of  expense  involved  in  further  attempts  to  res 
cue  our  gallant  countrymen,  or  at  least  the  surviving 
])ortion  of  them,  from  their  perilous  position. 

But  it  was  his  deliberate  conviction,  that  the  time 
1 1  ad  not  yet  arrived  when  the  attempt  ought  to  be  given 
up  as  hopeless  :  the  further  efforts  making  might  also 
be  the  means  of  determining  their  fate,  and  whether  it 

})loa8ed  God  to  give  success  to  those  effort*  or  not,  the 
^ords  of  the  Admiralty,  and  the  country  at  large,  would 
hereatler  be  better  satisfied  to  have  followed  up  the 
noble  attempts  already  made,  so  long  as  the  most  dis- 
tant hope  remains  of  ultimate  success. 

In  the  absence  of  authentic  information  of  the  fate 
of  the  gallant  band  of  adventurers,  it  has  been  well 
observed,  the  terra  incognita  of  the  northern  coast  of 
Arctic  America,  will  not  only  be  traced,  but  minutely 
surveyed,  and  the  solution  of  the  probleii  of  centuries 
will  engage  the  marked  attention  of  the  House  of  Com- 
mons, and  the  legislative  assemblies  of  other  parts  of 
the  world.  The  problem  is  very  safe  in  their  hands,  so 
safe  indeed  that  two  years  will  not  elapse  before  it  is 
solved. 

The  intense  anxiety  and  apprehension  now  so  gener- 
ally entertained  for  the  safety  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
ond  the  crews  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  under  his  com- 
mand, who,  if  still  in  existence,  are  now  passing  through 
the  severe  ordeal  of  a  fifth  winter,  in  those  inclement 
regions,  imperatively  call  for  every  available  effort  to 
be  made  for  their  rescue  from  a  position  so  perilous  ; 
and  as  long  as  one  possible  avenue  to  that  position  re- 
mains unsearched,  the  country  will  not  feel  satisfied 
that  every  thing  has  been  done,  which  perseverance 
and  experience  can  accomplish,  to  dispel  the  mystery 
which  at  present  surrounds  their  fate. 

Capt.  Sir  James  Ross  having  returned  successful  from 
\»ifi  antarctic  expedition  in  the  close  of  the  preceding 


202 


I'ROGIiESS   OF   AKCmu    lUSCOVEUY. 


year,  in  tbo  spring  of  1845,  the  Lords  Commissioners 
of  tlio  Admiralty,  upon  the  recommendation  of  Sir 
John  Barrow,  determmed  on  sending  out  another  ex- 
pedition to  the  North  Pole. 

Accordingly  the  command  was  given  to  Sir  John 
Franklin,  who  re-commissioned  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  two  vessels  which  had  just  returned  from  the  South 
Polar  Seas.  The  expedition  sailed  from  Sheemess  on 
the  20th  of  May,  1845.  The  following  are  the  officers 
helqnging  to  these  vessels,  and  for  whose  safety  so  deep 
an  interest  is  now  felt : — 

Erebus, 

»    Captain  —  Sir  John  Franklin,  K.  C.  H. 
Commander  —  James  Fitzjames,  (Capt.) 
Lieutenants  —  Graham  Gore,  (Commander,)  Henry 

T.  D.  Le  Vesconte,  James  William  Fairholme. 
Mates  —  Chas.  F.  des  Yaux,  (Lieut.,)  Kobert  O'Sar- 

gent,  (Lieut.) 
Second  Master  —  Henry  F.  Collins. 
Surgeon  —  Stephen  S.  Stanley. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Harry  D.  S.  Goodsir,  (acting.) 
Paymaster  and  Purser  —  Chas.  H.  Osmer. 
Ice-master  —  James  Reid,  acting. 
68  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  Complement,  70. 

Terror. 

Captain  —  Fras.  B.  M.  Crozier. 

Lieutenants  —  Edward  Little,  (Commander,)  Geo.  H. 

Hodgson,  John  Irving. 
^  Mates  —  Frederick  J.  Hornby,  (Lieutenant,)  Robert 

Thomas,  (Lieut.) 
Ice-master  —  T.  Blanky,  ^acting.) 
Second  Master — G.A.Maclean. 
Surgeon  —  John  S.  Peddie.  ''i^ 

Assistant-Surgeon  —  Alexander  McDonald. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Edwin  J.  H.  Helpman. 
67  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  ComplemcTit,  08. 


» 


FRANKLIN  S   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


203 


Those  ofticers  wlioso  rank  is  within  parenthesis  have 
been  promoted  during  their  absence. 

The  following  is  an  outline  of  Capt.  Franklin's  ser- 
vices as  recorded  in  O'Hyrne's  Naval  Biography  : — 

Sir  John  Franklin,  Kt.,  K.  K.  (I.,  K.  C.  11.,  J).  C.  L., 
F.  II.  S.,  was  born  in  1780,  at  Spilsby,  in  Lincolnshire, 
and  is  brother  of  the  late  Sir  W.  Franklin,  Kt,  Chief 
Justice  of  Madras.    lie  entered  the  navy  in  October, 
1800,  as  a  boy  on  board  the  Polyphemus,  64,  Captain 
John  Lawford,  under  whom  he  served  as  midshiinniin 
in  the  action  oft*  Copenhagen,  2d  of  April,  1801.     He 
tlien  sailed  with  Captain  Flinders,  in  II.  M.  sloop  In- 
vestigator, on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  New  Holland, 
joining  there  the  armed  store-ship  Porpoise ;  he  was 
wrecked  on  a  coral  reef  near  Cato  Bank  on  the  17th  of 
August,  1803.    I  shall  not  follow  him  through  all  his 
subsequent  period  of  active  naval  service,  in  which  ho 
displayed  conspicuous  zeal  and  activity.     But  we  find 
him  taking  part  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  on  the  21st 
of  October,  1805,  on  board  the  Bellerophoh,  where  he 
was  signal  midshipman.    He  was  connrmed  as  Lieu- 
tenant, on  board  the  Bedford,  74,  11th  of  February, 
1808,  and  he  then  escorted  the  royal  family  of  Portugal, 
from  Lisbon  to  South  America.    He  was  engaged  in 
very  arduous  services  during  the  expedition  against 
New  Orleans,  in  the  close  of  1814,  and  was  slightly 
wounded  in  boat  service,  and  for  his  brilliant  services  on 
this  occasion,  was  warmly  and  officially  recommended 
for  promotion.    On  the  14th  of  January,  1818,  he  as- 
sumed command  of  the  hired  brig  Trent,  in  which  he 
accompanied  Captain  D.  Buchan,  of  the  Dorothea,  on 
the  perilous  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  neighborhood 
of  Spitzbergen,  which  I  have  fully  recorded  elsewhere. 
In  April,  1819,  having  paid  off  the  Trent  in  the  pre- 
ceding November,  he  was  invested  with  the  conduct 
of  an  expedition  destined  to  proceed  overland  from  the 
shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  for  the  purpose  more  particu- 
larly of  ascertaining  the  actual  position  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Coppermine  Kiver,  and  the  exact  trending  of  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  to  the  eastward  of  that  river. 


m 

I 


I 
'^ 


ii'  i 


111!' 

Ill 


204 


PROOUKSS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVEUY. 


The  details  of  this  fearful  undertaking,  which  en- 
dured until  the  sunnner  of  1822,  and  in  tne  courfie  of 
wliicii,  he  reached  as  far  as  Point  Turnagain,  in  latitude 
(58°  ID'  N.,  and  longitude  100°  25'  W.,  and  effected  a 
journey  altogether  of  5550  miles,  Captain  Franklin 
lias  ably  set  forth  in  his  "l^arrative  of  a  Journey  to 
the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  in  the  year  1819-22,"  and 
which  I  have  abridged  in  preceding  pages.  He  was 
promoted  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  on  the  Ist  of 
January,  1821,  and  reached  his  post  rank  on  the  20th 
of  November,  1822.  On  the  16th  of  February,  1825, 
this  energetic  officer  again  left  England  on  another  ex- 
pedition to  the  Frozen  Regions,  having  for  its  object  a 
co-operation  with  Captains  F.  W.  Beechey,  and  W.  E. 
Parry,  in  ascertaining  from  opposite  quarters  the  ex- 
istence of  a  northwest  passage.  The  results  of  this 
mission  will  be  found  in  detad  in  Captain  Franklin's 
"Narrative  of  a  Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea,  in  1825-7." 

On  his  return  to  England,  where  he  an'ived  on  the 
26th  of  Sept.,  1827,  Franklin  was  presented  by  the 
Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  with  a  gold  medal  val- 
ued at  1200  francs,  tor  having  made  the  most  important 
acquisitions  to  geographical  knowledge  during  the  pre- 
ceding year,  and  on  the  29th  of  April,  1829,  he  received 
the  honor  of  knighthood,  besides  being  awarded  in  July 
following  the  Oxford  degree  of  a  D.  C.  L. 

From  1830  to  1834,  he  was  in  active  service  in  com- 
mand of  H.  M.  S.  Rainbow,  on  the  Mediterranean  sta- 
tion, and  for  his  exertions  during  that  period  as  con- 
nected with  the  troubles  in  Greece,  was  presented  with 
the  order  of  the  Redeemer  of  Greece.  Sir  John  was 
created  a  K.  0.  H.  on  the  25th  of  January,  1836,  and 
was  for  some  time  Governor  of  Yan  Diemen's  Land. 
He  married,  on  the  16th  of  August,  1823,  Eleanor 
Anne,  youngest  daughter  of  W.  Porden,  Esq.,  architect, 
of  Bemers  Street,  London,  and  secondly,  on  the  6th  of 
November,  1828,  Jane,  second  daughter  of  John  Grif- 
fin, Esq.,  of  Bedford  Place. 

Captain  Crozier  was  in  all  Parry's  expeditions,  hav- 


IKANKMNS    LAST   KXl'MIHTION. 


ii()5 


mrr  1)0011  inldsliipman  in  tlic  Fury  in  1S21,  in  tlio 
Jlocla  ill  18:^4,  went  out  as  Lieutenant  in  the  Jlocia, 
with  Parry,  on  liis  boat  expedition  to  the  Pole  in  IS27, 
volunteered  in  1830  to  go  out  in  Hoarch  of  the  nii^ssing 
whalers  and  their  crews  to  Davis'  Straits,  was  made  a 
Captain  in  1841,  and  was  second  in  command  of  the 
antarctic  exj^edition  under  Sir  James  lloss,  and  on  his 
return,  appointed  to  the  Terror,  as  second  in  command 
under  Franklin. 

Lieutenant  Gore  served  as  a  mate  in  the  last  fearful 
voyage  of  the  Terror,  under  Back,  and  was  also  with 
Ivoss  in  the  antarctic  expedition,  lie  has  attained  his 
commander's  rank  during  bis  absence. 

Lieutenant  Fairholme  was  in  the  Niger  expedition. 

Lieutenant  Little  has  also  been  promoted  during  his 
absence,  and  so  have  all  the  mates. 

Commander  Fitzjames  is  a  brave  and  gallant  officer, 
who  has  seen  much  service  in  the  East,  and  has  attained 
to  his  post  rank  since  his  departure. 

The  Terror,  it  may  be  remembered,  is  the  vessel  in 
which  Captain  Sir  G.  Back  made  his  perilous  attempt 
to  reach  Kepulse  Bay,  in  1836. 

The  Erebus  and  Terror  were  not  expected  home  un- 
less success  had  early  rewarded  their  efforts,  or  some 
tjasualty  hastened  their  return,  before  the  close  of  1847, 
nor  were  any  tidings  anticipated  from  them  in  the  in- 
terval ;  but  when  tne  autumn  of  1847  arrived,  without 
any  intelligence  of  the  ships,  the  attention  of  H.  M. 
Government  was  directed  to  the  necessity  of  searching 
for,  and  conveying  relief  to  them,  in  case  of  their  being 
imprisoned  in  the  ice,  or  wrecked,  and  in  want  of  pro- 
visions and  means  of  transport. 

For  this  purpose  a  searching  expedition  in  three 
divisions  was  fitted  out  by  the  government,  in  the  early 
part  of  1848.  The  investigation  was  directed  to  three 
different  quarters  simultaneously,  viz  :  1st,  to  that  by 
which,  in  case  of  success,  the  ships  would  come  out  of 
tlie  Polar  Sea,  to  the  westward,  or  Behring's  Straits. 
This  consisted  of  a  single  ship,  the  Plover,  commanded 
by  Captain  Moore,  which  left  England  in  the  latter  end 


'111 

1 


200 


rKOOUKSS    OF   AKCTIO    lUSCOVKKY. 


I. 


)i    : 

%    i 


(»t'  January,  for  tlie  purpose  of  cnterin^jf  IJehrin^'d  Strait. 
It  was  inteiided  tliat  hIic  should  arrive  tliere  in  the 
niontli  of  July,  and  having  looked  out  for  a  winter  har- 
lior,  Hhe  nii«^lit  send  out  her  boats  northward  and  east- 
ward, in  which  directions  the  discovery  ships,  if  suc- 
cessful, would  be  met  with.  The  Plover,  however,  in 
lier  lirnt  season,  never  even  approached  the  place  of  her 
destination,  owing  to  her  setting  oif  too  late,  and  to  her 
bad  sailing  properties. 

Jler  subsequent  proceedings,  and  those  of  her  boats 
along  the  coast,  will  be  found  narrated  in  after  pages. 

The  second  division  of  the  expedition  was  one  of 
boats,  to  explore  the  coast  of  the  Arctic  Sea  between 
the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  llivers,  or  from  the 
135th  to  the  115th  degree  of  \V.  longitude,  together 
with  the  south  coast  of  Wollaston  Land,  it  being  sup- 
posed, that  if  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  had  been  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  ships  and  take  to  the  boats,  they 
would  make  for  this  coast,  whence  they  could  reach  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts.  This  party  was  placed 
under  the  commana  of  the  faithful  friend  of  Franklin, 
and  the  companion  of  his  former  travels.  Dr.  Sir  John 
Kichardson,  who  landed  at  New  York  in  April,  1848, 
and  hastened  to  join  his  men  and  boats,  wliich  were 
already  in  advance  toward  the  arctic  shore.  He  was, 
liowever,  unsuccessful  in  his  search. 

The  remaining  and  most  important  portion  of  this 
searching  expedition  consisted  of  two  snips  under  the 
command  of  Sir  James  Ross,  which  sailed  in  May,  1848, 
for  the  locality  in  which  Franklin's  ships  entered  on 
this  course  of  discovery,  viz.,  the  eastern  side  of  Davis' 
Straits.  These  did  not,  however,  succeed,  owing  to  the 
state  of  the  ice  in  getting  into  Lancaster  Sound  until 
the  season  for  operations  had  nearly  closed.  These  ships 
wintered  in  the  neighborhood  of  Leopold  Island,  Regent 
Inlet,  and  missing  the  store-ship  sent  out  with  pro- 
visions and  fuel,  to  enable  them  to  stop  out  another 
year,  were  driven  out  through  the  Strait  by  the  pack 
of  ice,  and  returned  home  unsuccessful.  The  subse- 
quent expeditions  consequent  upon  the  failure  of  the 


--J^*'-^  ---^   .'^^i^j;  -■:£—  ■:  -^  - 


FIJANKLJN  -    L\fiT   KXPliDITlON. 


iior 


foregoing  ^  ill  l)o  I'ouikI  tiilly  detailed  and  narrated  in 
tiicir  i)roper  order. 

Among  the  niuiil)er  of  voluntoefs  for  the  service  of 
exploration,  in  thedilierent  searching  expeditions,  were 


respectability. 

Till)  llov.  Joseph  Wolff,  who  went  to  Bokhara  in 
search  of  Capt.  Conolly  and  Col.  Stoddart. 

Mr.  John  McLean,  who  had  passed  twenty-five  years 
as  an  otlicer  and  partner  of  the  iludson's  Bay  Company, 
and  who  has  recently  published  an  interesting  narra- 
tive of  his  experience  in  the  northwest  regions. 

Dr.  Kicharu  King,  who  accompanied  Capt.  Back  in 
his  land  journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Fish  Kiver. 

Lieut.  Sherard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  who  had  recently  gone 
out  in  the  Pioneer,  tender  to  the  Resolute. 

Commander  Forsyth,  R.  N.,  who  volunteered  for  all 
the  expeditious,  and  was  at  last  sent  out  by  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  the  Prince  Albert. 

Dr.  McCormick,  R.  N.,  who  served  under  Captain  Sir 
E.  Parry,  in  the  attempt  to  reach  the  North  Polo,  in  1827, 
wlio  twice  previously  volunteered  his  services  in  1847. 

Capt.  Sir  John  Ross,  who  has  gone  out  in  the  Felix, 
fitted  out  bv  the  Iludson's  Bay  Company,  and  by  pri- 
vate subscriptions ;  and  many  others. 

Up  to  the  present  time  no  intelligence  of  any  kind 
has  oeen  received  respecting  the  expedition,  and  its 
fate  is  now  exciting  the  most  intense  anxiety,  not  only 
on  the  part  of  the  British  government  and  public,  but 
of  the  whole  civilized  world.  The  maratime  powers  of 
Europe  and  the  United  States  are  vying  with  each  other 
as  to  who  shall  be  the  first  to  discover  some  trace  of  the 
aiissing  navigators,  and  if  they  be  still  alive,  to  render 
#hem  assistance.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have, 
with  a  noble  liberality,  placed  all  their  available  re- 
sources of  men,  provisions,  and  the  services  of  their 
chief  and  most  experienced  traders,  at  the  disposal  of 
government.    The  Russian  authorities  have  also  given 


ft, 


!  i 


M. 


208 


PKOOBESS   OF   ARCTIC'  DISCOVERY. 


.  !i!!3li 
'4 


every  facility  for  diifusing  information  and  aftbrding 
assistance  in  their  territories. 

In  a  letter  from  Sir  John  Franklin  to  Colonel  Sabine, 
dated  from  the  Whale  Fish  Islands,  9th  of  July,  1845, 
alter  noticing  that,  including  what  they  had  received 
from  the  transport  which  had  accompanied  them  so  far, 
tlie  Erebus  and  '^error  had  on  board  provisions,  fuel, 
clothing  and  stores  for  three  years  complete  from  that 
date,  i.  e.  to  July,  1848,  he  continues  as  follows: — "I 
hope  my  dear  wite  and  daughter  will  not  be  over-anxious 
if  we  should  not  return  by  the  time  they  have  fixed  upon; 
and  I  must  beg' of  you  to  give  them  the  benefit  of  your 
advice  and  experience  when  that  arrives,  for  you  know 
well,  that  even  after  the  second  winter,  without  success 
in  our  object,  we  should  wish  to  try  some  other  channel, 
if  the  state  of  our  provisions,  and  the  health  of  the 
crews  justify  it. 

Capt.  Dannett,  of  the  whaler.  Prince  of  "Wales,  while 
in  Melville  Bay,  last  saw  the  vessels  of  the  expedition, 
moored  to  an  iceberg,  on  the  26th  of  July,  in  lat.  74° 
48'  N.,  long.  GG^  13'  W.,  waiting  for  a  favorable  open- 
ing through  the  middle  ice  from  Baflin's  Bay  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound.  Capt.  Dannett  states  that  during  three  weeks 
after  parting  company  with  the  ships,  he  experienced 
very  fine  weather,  and  thinks  they  would  have  made 
good  progress. 

Lieut.  Grifiith,  in  command  of  the  transport  which 
accompanied  them  out  with  provisions  to  Baffin's  Bay, 
reports  that  he  left  all  hands  well  and  in  high  spirits. 
They  were  then  furnished,  he  adds,  with  every  species 
of  provisions  for  three  entire  years,  independently  of 
five  bullocks,  and  stores  of  every  description  for  the 
same  period,  with  abundance  of  fuel.  • 

The  following  is  Sir  John  Franklin's  official  letter 
sent  home  by  the  transport :  — 

"  ITer  Majesty^ 8  Ship  *  Erebus^ 
«<  Whale-Fish  Islands,  12th  of  July,  1845. 

"  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  that 


FBANKLLN  6  LAST  EXPEDITION. 


209 


letter 


846. 

^rma- 
that 


her  Majesty's  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  with  the  trans- 
port, arrived  at  this  anchorage  on  the  4th  instant,  hav- 
ing had  a  passage  of  one  month  from  Stromness  :  the 
transport  was  immediately  taken  alongside  this  ship, 
that  she  might  be  the  more  readily  cleared ;  and  we 
have  been  constantly  employed  at  that  operation  till 
last  evening,  the  delay  having  been  caused  not  so 
much  in  getting  the  stores  transferred  to  either  of  the 
sliips,  as  in  making  the  best  stowage  of  them  below, 
as  well  as  on  the  upper  deck  ;  the  ships  are  now  com- 
])lete  with  supplies  of  every  kind  for  three  years;  they 
are  therefore  very  deep;  but,  happily,  we  have  no 
reason  to  expect  much  sea  as  we  proceed  farther. 

"  The  magnetic  instruments  were  landed  the  same 
morning  ;  so  also  were  the  other  instruments  requisite 
for  ascertaining  the  position  of  the  observatory ;  and 
it  is  satisfactory  to  find  that  the  result  of  the  observa- 
tions for  latitude  and  longitude  accord  very  nearly 
with  those  assigned  to  the  same  place  by  Sir  Edward 
Parry;  those  for  the  dip  and  variation  are  equally  sat- 
isfixctory,  which  were  made  by  Captain  Crozier  with 
the  instruments  belonging  to  the  Terror,  and  by  Com- 
mander Fitzjames  with  those  of  the  Erebus. 

"  The  ships  are  now  being  swung,  for  the  purpose 
of  ascertaining  the  dip  and  deviation  of  the  needle  on 
board,  as  was  done  at  Greenhithe,  which,  I  trust,  will 
be  completed  this  afternoon,  and  I  hope  to  be  able  to 
sail  in  the  night. 

"The  governor  and  principal  persons  are  at  this 
time  absent  from  Disco,  so  that  I  have  not  been  able 
to  receive  any  communication  from  head  quarters  as 
to  the  state  of  the  ice  to  the  north  ;  I  have,  however, 
learnt  from  a  Danish  carpenter  in  charge  of  the  Es- 
quimaux at  these  islands,  that  though  the  winter  was 
severe,  the  spring  was  not  later  than  usual,  nor  was 
the  ice  later  in  breaking  away  hereabout ;  he  supposes 
also  that  it  is  now  loose  as  far  as  74°  latitude,  and  that 
our  prospect  is  favorable  of  getting  across  the  barrier, 
and  as  far  as  Lancaster  Sound,  without  much  obstruc- 
tion. 


210 


rnOGBESS   OF   AKCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


*'Tbe  transport  will  sail  for  England  this  day.  1 
bIilW  instruct  the  agent,  Lieutenant  Griffiths,  to  pro- 
ceed to  Deptford,  and  report  his  arrival  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Admiralty.  I  have  much  satisfaction  in 
bearing  my  testimony  to  the  careful  and  zealous  man- 
ner in  which  Lieut.  Griffiths  has  performed  the  service 
intrusted  to  him,  and  would  beg  to  recommend  him, 
as  an  officer  who  appears  to  have  seen  much  service, 
to  the  favorable  consideration  of  their  lordships. 

."It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  assure  their  lordships 

of  the  energy  and  zeal  of  Captaiii  Crozier,  Commander 

Fitzjames,  and  of  the  officers  and  men  with  whom  I 

have  the  happiness  of  being  employed  on  this  service. 

"  I  have,  &c., 

(Signed)  John  Feanklin,  Captain. 

"The  Eight  Hon.  H.  L.  Corry,  M.  P." 

It  has  often  been  a  matter  of  surprise  that  but  one 
of  the  copper  cylinders  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was 
instructed  to  throw  overboard  at  stated  intervals,  to 
record  his  progress,  has  ever  come  to  hand,  but  a  re- 
cent sight  of  the  solitary  one  which  has  been  received 
proves  to  me  that  they  are  utterly  useless  for  the 
purpose.  A  small  tube,  about  the  size  of  an  ordi- 
nary rocket-case,  is  hardly  ever  likely  to  be  observed 
among  huge  masses  of  ice,  and  the  waves  of  the  At- 
lantic and  Jracific,  unless  drifted  by  accident  on  shore, 
or  near  some  boat.  The  Admiralt}^  have  wisely  or- 
dered them  to  be  rendered  more  conspicuous  by  being 
headed  up  in  some  cask  or  barrel,  instructions  being 
issued  to  Captain  Collinson,  and  other  officers  of  the 
different  expeditions'  to  that  effect. 

According  to  Sir  John  Richardson,  who  was  on  inti- 
mate terms  with  Sir  John  Franklin,  his  plans  were  to 
shape  his  course  in  the  first  instance  for  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Cape  Walker,  and  to  push  to  the  westward  in 
that  parallel,  or,  if  that  could  not  be  accomplished,  to 
make  his  way  southward,  to  the  channel  discovered  on 
the  north  coast  of  the  continent,  and  so  on  to  Behring's 
Straits  ;  failing  success  in  that  quarter,  he  meant  to  re- 
trace his  course  to  Wellington  Sound,  and  attempt  a 


FBANKLIN  S   LA8T    EXl'EDITION. 


211 


passage  northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  if  foiled  there 
also,  to  descend  Kegent  Inlet,  and  seek  the  passage 
along  the  coast  discovered  by  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simp- 
son. 

Captain  Fitziaraes,  the  second  in  command  under 
Sir  John  Franklin,  was  much  inclined  to  try  the  pas- 
sage northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  he  would  no 
doubt  endeavor  to  persuade  Sir  John  to  pursue  this 
course  if  they  failed  to  the  southward. 

In  a  private  letter  of  Captain  Fitzjames  to  Sir  John 
Barrow,  dated  January,  1845,  he  writes  as  follows  :  — 

"  It  does  not  appear  clear  to  me  what  led  Parry  down 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  after  having  got  as  far  as  Melville 
Island  before.  Hie  northwest  passage  is  certainly  to 
be  gone  through  by  Barrow's  Strait,  but  whether  south 
or  north  of  Parry 'n  Group,  remains  to  be  proved.  I  am 
for  going  north,  edging  northwest  till  in  longitude  140^, 
if  possible." 

I  shall  now  pro<*.eed  to  trace,  in  chronological  order 
and  succession,  the  opinions  and  proceedings  of  the 
chief  arctic  explorers  and  public  authorities,  with  the 
private  suggestions  offered  and  notice  in  detail  the  re- 
lief expeditions  resulting  therefrom. 

In  February,  1847,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  state, 
that  having  unlimited  confidence  in  the  skill  and  re- 
sources of  Sir  John  Franklin,  they  "  have  as  yet  felt  no 
apprehensions  about  his  safety  ;  but  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  obvious,  that  if  no  accounts  of  him  should  arrive 
by  the  end  of  this  year,  or,  as  Sir  John  Ross  expects,  at 
an  earlier  period,  active  steps  must  then  be  taken." 

Captain  Sir  Edward  Parry  fully  concurred  in  these 
views,  observing, "  Former  experience  has  clearly  shown 
tliat  with  the  resources  taken  from  this  country,  two 
winters  may  be  passed  in  the  polar  regions,  not  only  in 
safety,  but  with  comfort ;  and  if  any.  inference  can  be 
drawn  from  the  absence  of  all  intelligence  of  the  expe- 
dition up  to  this  time,  I  am  disposed  to  consider  it  ra- 
ther in  favor  than  otherwise  of  the  success  which  has 
attended  their  effoi-ts." 

Captain  Sir  G.  Back,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of 


!  ■: 


I 


212 


I'KOGliESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


the  Admiralty,  under  date  27th  of  January,  1848,  says, 
"  I  cannot  bring  myself  to  entertain  more  than  ordi^ 
nary  anxiety  for  tlie  safety  and  return  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  gallant  companions." 

Captain  Sir  John  Ross  records,  in  February,  1847, 
his  opinion  that  the  expedition  was  frozen  up  beyond 
Melville  Island,  from  the  known  intentions  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  to  put  his  ships  into  the  drift  ice  at  the  west- 
ern end  of  Melville  Island,  a  risk  which  was  deemed 
in  the  highest  degree  imprudent  by  Lieutenant  Parry 
and  the  oflScers  of  the  expedition  of  1819-20,  with 
ships  of  a  less  draught  of  water,  and  in  every  respect 
better  calculated  to  sustain  the  pressure  of  the  ice,  and 
other  dangers  to  which  they  must  be  exposed ;  and  as 
it  is  now  well  known  that  the  expedition  has  not  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  Behring's  Strait,  and  if  not  totally 
lost,  must  have  been  carried  by  the  ice  that  is  known 
to  drift  to  the  southward  on  land  seen  at  a  great  dis- 
tance in  that  direction,  and  from  which  the  accumu- 
lation of  ice  behind  them  will,  as  in  Ross's  own  case, 
forever  prevent  the  return  of  the  ships ;  consequently 
they  must  be  abandoned.  When  we  remember  with 
what  extreme  difficulty  Ross's  party  traveled  300  miles 
over  much  smoother  ice  after  they  abandoned  tl^eir 
vessel,  it  appears  very  doubtful  whether  Franklin  and 
his  men,  138  in  number,  could  possibly  travel  GOQ 
miles. 

In  the  contingency  of  the  ships  having  penetrated 
some  considerable  distance  to  the  southwest  of  Capo 
Walker,  and  having  been  hampered  and  crushed  in  tho 
narrow  channels  of  the  Archipelago,  which  there  are 
reasons  for  believing  occupies  the  space  between  Vic- 
toria, Wollaston,  and  Banks'  Lands,  it  is  well  re 
marked  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  that  such  accident? 
among  ice  are  seldom  so  sudden  but  that  the  boats  of 
one  or  of  both  ships,  with  provisions,  can  be  saved ; 
and  in  such  an  event  the  survivors  would  either  returc 
to  Lancaster  Strait,  or  make  for  the  continent,  accord 
jng  to  their  nearness. 

Colonel  Sabine  remarks,  in  a  letter  dated  Woolvicl*. 


5 
ti 

V 
V 


r,.i'  ■ 


FliANKLIN  S   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


213 


;aj)o 
tho 


5th  of  May,  1847,—"  It  was  Sir  Jolin  Franklin's  inten- 
tion, if  foiled  at  one  point,  to  try  in  succession  all  tho 
probable  openings  into  a  more  navigable  part  of  the 
Polar  Sea:  the  range  of  coast  is  considerable  in  which 
memorials  of  the  ships'  progress  would  have  to  be 
sought  for,  extending  from  Melville  Island,  in  the  west, 
to  the  great  Sound  at  the  head  of  Bathn's  Bay,  in  the 
east." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  when  appealed  to  by  the  Admi- 
ralty in  the  spring  of  1847,  as  regarded  the  very  strong 
apprehensions  expressed  at  that  time  for  the  safety  of 
the  expedition,  considered  they  were  premature,  as  tiio 
ships  were  specially  equipped  to  pass  two  winters  in 
the  Arctic  Sea,  and  until  the  close  of  that  year,  he  saw 
no  well-grounded  cause  for  more  anxiety  tlian  was  nat- 
urally felt  when  the  expedition  sailed  from  this  country 
on  an  enterprise  of  peril,  though  not  greater  than  that 
which  had  repeatedly  been  encountered  by  others,  and 
on  one  occasion  by  Sir  John  Ross  for  two  winters  also, 
but  who  returned  in  safety. 

Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  in  March,  1847,  writes* 
"I  do  not  think  there  is  the  smallest  reason  for  appre- 
hension or  anxiety  for  the  safety  and  success  of  tiio 
expedition  ;  no  one  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  tiie 
navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea  would  have  expected  tluy 
would  have  been  able  to  get  through  to  Behring's  Strait 
without  spending  at  least  two  winters  in  those  regions, 
except  under  unusually  favorable  circumstances,  which 
all  the  accounts  from  the  whalers  concur  in  proving 
they  have  not  experienced,  and  I  am  quite  sure  neither 
Sir  John  Franklin  nor  Captain  Crozier  expected  to  do  so, 

"Their  last  letters  to  me  from  Whale  Fish  Islands, 
the  day  previous  to  their  departure  from  them  infoiin 
me  that  they  had  taken  on  board  provisions  for  three 
years  on  full  allowance,  which  they  could  extend  to  four 
years  without  any  serious  inconvenience ;  so  that  we 
may  feel  assured  they  cannot  want  from  that  cause  until 
after  the  middle  of  July,  1849  ;  it  therefore  does  not 
appear  to  me  at  all  desirable  to  send  after  them  until  the 
spring  of  the  next  year."  (1848.) 


i 


2U 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


In  the  plan  submitted  by  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey, 
R.  N.,  in  April,  1847,  after  premising  "  that  there  does 
not  at  present  appear  to  be  any  reasonable  apprehen- 
sion for  the  safety  of  the  expedition,"  he  suggested  that 
it  would  perhaps  be  prudent  that  a  relief  expedition 
should  be  sent  out  that  season  to  Cape  Walker,  where 
information  of  an  important  nature  would  most  likely 
be  found.  From  this  vicinity  one  vessel  could  proceed 
to  examine  the  various  points  and  headlands  in  Regent 
Inlet,  and  also  those  to  the  northward,  while  the  other 
watched  the  passage,  so  that  Franklin  and  his  party 
might  not  pass  unseen,  should  he  be  on  his  return.  At 
the  end  of  the  season  the  ships  could  winter  at  Pork 
Bowen,  or  any  other  port  in  the  vicinity  of  Leopold 
Island. 

"  In  the  spring  of  1848,"  he  adds, "  a  party  should  bo 
directed  to  explore  the  coast,  down  to  liecla  and  Fury 
Strait,  and  to  endeavor  to  communicate  with  the  party 
dispatched  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  that  direc- 
tion ;  and  in  connection  with  this  part  of  the  arrange- 
ment, it  would  render  the  plan  complete  if  a  boat  could 
be  sent  down  Back's  River  to  range  the  coast  to  the 
eastward  of  its  mouth,  to  meet  the  above  mentioned 
party  ;  and  tJius,  while  it  would  complete  the  geography 
of  that  part  of  the  American  coast,  it  would  at  the  same 
time  complete  the  line  of  information  as  to  the  extensive 
measures  of  relief  which  their  lordships  have  set  on 
foot,  and  the  precise  spot  where  assistance  and  depots 
of  provisions  are  to  be  found.  This  part  of  the  plan 
has  suggested  itself  to  me  from  a  conversation  I  had 
with  Su*  John  Franklin  as  to  his  first  effort  being  made 
to  the  westward  and  southwestward  of  Cape  Walker. 
It  is  possible  that,  after  passing  the  Cape,  he  may  have 
been  successful  in  getting  down  upop  Victoria  Land, 
and  have  passed  bis  first  winter  (1845)  thei-kibout,  and 
th&t  he  may  have  spent  his  second  winter  at  a  still  moro 
advanced  station,  and  even  endured  a  third,  without 
either  a  prospect  of  success,  or  of  an  extrication  of  his 
vessels  withii:  a  given  period  of  time, 

"  If,  in  this  condition,  which  I  trust  may  not  be  Ihe 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


215 


lade 
Iker. 


case,  Sir  John  Franklin  should  resolve  upon  taking  to 
his  boats,  he  would  prefer  atteniptinj'  a  boat  navigation 
through  Sir  James  Koss's  Strait,  and  up  Regent  Inlet, 
to  a  long  land  journey  across  the  continent,  to  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Settlements,  to  which  the  greater  part  of  hiu 
crew  would  be  wholly  unequal." 

Sir  John  llichardson  remarks  upon  the  above  sugges- 
tions, on  the  5th  of  May,  1847, — "  With  respect  to  a 
party  to  be  sent  down  Back's  River  to  the  bottom  of 
Regent  Inlet,  its  size  and  outlit  would  require  to  be 
equal  with  that  of  the  one  now  preparing  -to  descend 
the  Mackenzie  River,  and  it  could  scarcely  with  the 
utmost  exertions  be  organized  so  as  to  start  this  sum- 
mer. The  present  scarcity  of  provisions  in  the  Iludsoirs 
Bay  country  precludes  the  hope  of  assistance  from  tho 
Company's  southern  posts,  and  it  is  now  too  late  to 
provide  the  means  of  transport  through  the  interior  of 
supplies  from  this  country,  which  require  to  be  embarked 
on  board  the  Hudson's  Bay  ships  by  the  2d  of  June  at 
the  latest. 

"  Moreover  there  is  no  Company's  post  on  the  line  of 
Back's  River  nearer  than  the  junction  of  Slave  River 
with  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  I  do  not  think  that  under 
any  circumstances  Sir  John  Franklin  would  attempt 
that  route. 

"  In  the  summer  of  1849,  if  the  resources  of  the  party 
I  am  to  conduct  remain  unimpaired,  as  I  have  every 
reason  to  believe  they  will,  much  of  what  Capt.  Beechey 
suggests  in  regard  to  exploring  Victoria  Land  may  be 
done  by  it,  and  indeed  ibrms  part  of  the  original  scheme. 
The  extent  of  the  examination  of  any  part  of  the  coast 
in  1848  depends,  as  I  formerly  stated,  very  much  on 
the  seasons  of  this  autumn  and  next  spring,  which  influ- 
ence the  adviuc^e  of  the  boats  through  a  long  course  of 
iviffatidte'     As  Governor  Simpson  will  most 


river  navij 


likely  succeed  in  procuring  an  Esquimaux  to  accom- 
pany my  party,  I  nope  by  his  means  to  obtain  such 
information  from  parties  of  that  nation  as  may  greatly 
facilitate  our  finding  the  ships,  should  they  be  detained 
in  that  quarter. 


u 


nil 


-1.   l-i 


y',' 


\ 


21fi 


PROORESg   OF    ARCrrO    DISCOVERY. 


"•  Wore  Sir  John  Fi-unklin  thrown  upon  the  north 
coa  't  of  tlic  continent  with  his  bouts,  and  all  his  crew, 
1  do  not  tliink  he  would  utteni[)t  the  ascent  of  any  river, 
except  the  Mackenzie.  It  is  navi^al)le  for  boats  of  largo 
draiigiit,  without  a  portage,  for  1300  miles  from  the 
sea,  or  within  forty  miles  of  Fort  Chipewyan,  one  of 
the  Com})any'8  principal  depots,  and  there  are  five 
other  posts  in  that  distance.  Though  these  posts  could 
not  furnish  provisions  to  such  a  party,  they  could,  by 
j)r(>viding  them  with  nets,  and  distributing  the  men  to 
vai'ious  lishing  stations,  do  much  toward  procuring  food 


r 


>r  'iieni. 

'•  L  concur  generally  in  what:  Captain  Beechey  has 
said  M  itli  regard  to  feehring's  Straits,  a  locality  witii 
whicli  lie  is  so  intimately  acquainted,  but  beg  leave  to 
add  oiio  I'emark,  viz :  that  in  high  northern  latitudes 
the  i']'linary  allowance  of  animal  food  is  insufficient  in 
th*'  winter  season  to  maintain  a  laboring  man  in  health  ; 
and  as  Sir  John  Franklin  would  deem  it  prudent  when 
detained  a  second  winter  to  shorten  the  allowance, 
symptoms  of  scurvy  may  show  themselves  among  the 
men,  as  was  the  case  when  Sir  Edward  Parry  wintered 
twu  years  in  Fox's  Channel. 

"  A  vessel,  therefore,  meeting  the  Erebus  and  Terror 
this  season  in  Eehring's  Straits,  might  render  great 
service."  * 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  Bart.,  in  a  memorandum 
dated  July,  1>^47,  says  : — 

'•  The  anxiety  that  prevails  regarding  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, and  the  brave  fellows  who  compose  the  crews  of 
the  two  ships,  is  very  natural,  but  somewhat  premature  ; 
it  arises  chiefly  from  nothing  having  been  received  from 
them  since  fixed  in  the  ice  of  Baflin's  Bay,  where  the 
last  whaling  ship  of  the  season  of  1845  left  them,  oppo- 
site to  the  opening  into  Lancaster  Sound.  Hitherto  no 
difficulty  has  been  found  to  the  entrance  into  that 
Sound.  If  disappointed,  rather  than  return  to  the  south- 
ward, with  the  view  of  wintering  at  or  about  Disco,  I 

•  Pari.  Paper,  No.  264,  Session  1848.      -' 


OriNIONa    AND   Sl'OORSTIONS. 


217 


pliould  be  ineliiRHl  to  think  that  they  would  en(U»avMi'to 
(.'UtcM'  Siuith\s  Sound,  so  hiirlilv  s|)ukt»n  of  1)V  liallin.  :ui<l 
Avhicli  just  MOW  that  «^alhint  and  adventurous  iiu-  1.1:1, 
Admiral  Count  Wrangel,  has  jxMnted  out  in  a  ]  .[it 
addressed  to  the  Geoi^raphical  Society  as  the  stai- iiil? 
place  for  an  attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole;  it  would 
a})pear  to  be  an  inlet  that  runs  up  hiojh  to  the  northw.ird. 
as  an  otlicer  in  one  of  Parry's  ships  states  that  he  <\\v 
in  the  line  of  direction  along  that  inlet,  the  sun  at  laid- 
night  skimming  the  horizon. 

'' From  Lancaster  Sound  Franklin's  instructions  di- 
rected him  to  proceed  through  Barrow's  Strait,  as  far  as 
the  islands  on  its  southern  side  extended,  which  is  short 
of  Melville  Island,  which  was  to  be  avoided,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  dangerous  coast,  but  also  as  beiui:  out 
of  the  direction  of  the  course  to  the  intended  olMt'ct. 
Having,  therefore,  reached  the  last  known  land  01  the 
houthern  side  of  Barrow's  Strait,  they  were  to  si  ())o 
a  direct  course  to  Behring's  Strait,  without  any  d<'>ia- 
tion,  except  what  obstruction  might  be  met  with  from 
ice,  or  from,  islands,  in  the  midst  of  the  Polar  Sea,  of 
which  no  knowledge  had  at  that  time  been  procured  ; 
but  if  any  such  existed,  it  would  of  coui-se  l)e  left  to 
their  judgment,  on  the  spot,  how  to  get  rid  of  such  ob- 
Btructions,  by  taking  a  northerly  or  a  southerly  course. 

"  The  only  chance  of  bringing  them  upon  this  •  rho 
American)  coast  is  the  possibility  of  some  obstni<  iion 
having  tempted  them  to  explore  an  immense  ink  011 
the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  (short  of  M  '. 
ville  Island,)  called  Wellington  Channel,  which  Parry 
felt  an  inclination  to  explore,  and  more  than  one  of 
the  present  party  betrayed  to  me  a  similar  inclinuflon, 
which  I  discouraged,  no  one  venturing  to  conjoduie 
even  to  what  extent  it  might  go,  or  into  what  difficulties 
it  might  lead. 

"  Under  all  these  circumstances,  it  would  It  an  act 
of  folly  to  pronounce  any  opinion  of  the  ?t;i  e.  ^'  •!!- 
tion,  opposition  of  those  two  ships ;  they  are  weU  .Milce<l 

10 


II' 


i 


I 


218 


I'KOGRKSS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


for  their  purpose,  and  the  only  doubt  I  liave  is  that  of 
their  being  hampered  by  the  screws  among  the  ice." 

Sir  James  C.  Koss,  in  his  outline  of  a  plan  for  afford- 
ing relief,  submitted  to  the  Admiralty  in  December, 
1847,  suggested  that  two  ships  shoulci  be  sent  out  to 
examine  Wellington  Channel,  alluded  to  in  the  forego- 
ing memorandum  of  Sir  John  Barrow,  and  the  coast 
between  Capes  Clarence  and  Walker.  A  convenient 
winter  harbor  might  be  found  for  one  of  the  ships  near 
Garnier  Bay  or  Cape  Rennell.  From  this  position  the 
coast  line  could  be  explored  as  far  as  it  extended  to  the 
westward,  by  detached  parties,  early  i.i  the  spring,  as 
well  as  the  western  coast  of  Boothia,  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  southward ;  and  at  a  more  advanced 
period  of 'the  season  the  whole  distance  to  Cape  Nicolai 
might  bo  completed. 

The  other  ship  should  then  proceed  alone  to  the 
westward,  endeavoring  to  reach  Winter  Harbor,  in 
Melville  Island,  or  some  convenient  port  in  Banks' 
Land,  in  which  to  pass  the  winter. 

From  these  points  parties  might  be  sent  out  early  in 
the  spring. 

The  first  party  should  be  directed  to  trace  the  west- 
em  coast  of  Banks'  Land,  and  proceed  direct  to  Cape 
Bathurst  or  Cape  Parry,  on  each  of  which  Sir  John 
Richardson  proposes  to  leave  depots  of  provisions  for 
its  use,  and  then  to  reach  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
settlement  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  on  the  Mackenzie, 
whence  they  might  travel  by  the  usual  route  of  the 
traders  to  the  principal  settlement,  and  thence  to  Eng- 
land. 

The  second  party  should  explore  the  eastern  shore  of 
Banks'  Land,  and  make  for  Cape  Krusenstem,  where, 
or  at  Cape  Hearne,  they  will  find  a  cache  of  provision 
left  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  with  whom  this  party 
may  communicate,  and  whom  it  may  assist  in  comple- 
ting the  examination  of  WoUaston  and  Victoria  Lands, 
or  return  to  England  by  the  route  he  shall  deem  most 
advisable. 

Sir  James  Ross  was  intrusted  with  the  carrying  out 


OPINIONS   AND  8UOOESTION8. 


219 


in 


m 


of 


jre. 


ds, 
ost 


of  this  eearch,  in  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator,  and 
an  account  of  the  voyage  and  procecdini^  of  these  ves- 
6c1h  will  be  found  recorded  in  its  chronological  order. 

The  following  letter  from  Dr.  Richard  King  to  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty  contains  some  useful  sugges- 
tions, although  it  is  mixed  up  with  a  good  deal  of  ego- 
tistical remark: — 

**  17,  Saville  JioWy  February,  1848. 

"'The  old  route  of  Parry,  through  Lancaster  Sound 
and  Barrow's  8trait,  as  far  as  to  the  last  land  on  its 
southern  shore,  and  thence  in  a  direct  line  to  Behrlng's 
Straits,  is  the  route  ordered  to  be  pursued  by  Frank- 
lin.'* 

"The  gallant  officer  has  thus  been  dispatched  to  push 
his  adventurous  way  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  which  Sir  E.  Parry  attempted  for  two 
years  unsuccessfully.  A.fter  much  toil  and  hardship, 
and  the  best  consideration  that  great  man  could  give 
to  the  subject,  he  recorded,  at  the  moment  of  retreat, 
in  indelible  characters,  these  impressive  thoughts: 
'  We  have  been  lying  near  our  present  station,  with 
an  easterly  wind  blowing  fresh,  for  thirty-six  hours 
together,  and  although  this  was  considerably  off  the 
land,  the  ice  had  not  during  the  whole  of  that  time 
moved  a  single  yard  from  the  shore,  affording  a  proof 
that  there  was  no  space  in  which  the  ice  was  at  liberty 
to  move  to  the  westward.  The  navigation  of  this  part 
of  the  Polar  Sea  is  only  to  be  performed  by  watching 
the  occasional  opening  between  the  ice  and  the  shore, 
md  therefore,  a  continuity  of  land  is  essential  for  this 
purpose ;  such  a  continuity  of  land,  which  was  here 
about  to  fail,  as  must  necessarily  be  furnished  by  the 
northern  coast  of  America,  in  whatsoever  latitude  it 
may  be  found.'  Assuming,  therefore.  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  been  arrested  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  where  Sir  E.  Parry  was  arrested  by  dif- 
ficulties which  he  considered  insurmountable,  and  hr 
has  followed  the  advice  of  that  gallant  officer,  and 

•  Barrow's  Arctic  Voyages,  p.  11. 


-i^'^A.-^: 


':f 


220 


ruooKK.sa  of  auctkj  dhcovkuv. 


in;i(le  for  the  continuity  of  America,  he  will  have 
turned  the  nrows  t»f  his  vcsBel  south  and  west,  accord- 
\w^  as  BaiiKs'  J^and  tends  for  Victoria  or  Wollaston 
JiUruls.  It  is  lierc,  therefore,  that  we  may  expect  to 
iind  the  expedition  wrecked,  wlience  they  will  make 
in  their  hoats  for  the  western  land  t>f  North  Somerset, 
if  tliat  land  should  not  be  too  far  distant. 

"In  order  to  save  the  i)arty  from  the  <jrdeal  of  u 
fo.urth  winter,  when  starvation  must  he  their  lot,  L 
propose  to  undertake  the  ])olde8t  journey  that  has  ever 
uocn  attempted  in  the  northern  regions  of  America, 
one  which  was  justiliable  only  from  the  circumstances. 
I  ])ropo8e  to  attemi)t  to  reach  the  western  land  of  Ninth 
Somerset  or  the  eastern  portion  of  Victoria  Laud,  as 
may  be  deemed  advisable,  by  the  close  of  the  ap- 
proaching summer;  to  accomplish,  in  fact,  in  one  sum- 
mer that  which  has  not  been  done  under  two. 

"  I  rest  my  hope  of  success  in  the  performance  of 
this  Herculean  task  upon  the  fact,  that  I  possess  an  in- 
timate knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  people  through 
which  I  shall  have  to  pass,  the  health  to  stand  the 
rigor  of  the  climate,  ana  the  strength  to  undergo  the 
fatigue  of  mind  and  body  to  which  I  must  be  subjected. 
A  glance  at  the  map  of  North  America,  directed  to 
IJeliring's  Strait  in  the  Pacific,  Barrow's  Strait  in  tlio 
Atlantic,  and  the  land  of  North  Somerset  between 
tlicm,  will  make  it  apparent  that,  to  render  assistance 
to  a  party  situated  on  tnat  coast,  there  are  two  ways  by 
sea  and  one  by  land.  Of  the  two  sea-ways,  the  route 
by  tlie  Pacific  is  altogether  out  of  the  question  ;  it  is  an 
idea  of  by-gone  days  ;  while  that  by  trie  Atlantic  is  so 
(loul)tful  of  success,  that  it  is  merely  necessary,  to  put 
tliis  assistance  aside  as  far  from  certain,  to  mention  that 
Sir  John  Ross  found  Barrow's  Strait  closed  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1832.  To  a  land  journey,  then,  alone  we  can 
look  for  success  ;  for  the  failure  of  a  land  journey 
Would  be  the  exception  to  the  rule,  while  the  sea  expe- 
flition  \vould  lie  tlio  rule  itself.  To  tlie  western  land  of 
Nv>ith  Somerset,  where  Sir  John  Franklin  is  likely  to 
be  found,  the  Gi-eat  Fish  River  is  the  direct  and  only 


oriNIoNS   AND  aUOOI-MilONS. 


221 


IS  so 

0  put 

1  that 
sinii- 

e  can 
arney 
expa- 
nd of 
ely  to 
only 


route ;  aud  although  the  approach  to  it  id  tlirough  a 
country  too  poor,  and  too  dimcult  of  access  to  admit  of 
the  transport  of  provisionB,  it  may  he  made  the  medi- 
um of  communication  hetween  the  lost  expedition  and 
the  civilized  world,  and  guides  be  thus  placed  at  their 
disposal  to  convey  them  to  the  hunting  grounds  of  the 
Indians.  Without  such  guides  it  is  impossible  that 
they  can  reach  these  hunting  grounds,  it  was  by  the 
Great  Fish  lliver  that  I  reached  the  Polar  Sea  while 
acting  as  second  officer,  in  search  of  Sir  John  Koss. 
I  feel  it  my  duty,  therefore,  as  one  of  two  officers  bo 
peculiarly  circumstanced,  at  the  present  moment  to 
place  my  views  on  record,  as  an  earnest  of  my  sincer- 
ity. Even  if  it  should  be  determined  to  try  and  force 
provision  vessels  through  Barrow^s  Strait,  and  scour 
the  vicinity  in  boats  for  the  lost  expedition,  and  should 
it  succeed,  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  know  that  such  a 
mission  as  I  have  proposed  should  be  adopted  ;  while, 
if  these  attempts  should  fail,  and  the  service  under  con 
sideration  be  put  aside,  it  will  be  a  source  of  regret 
that  not  only  the  nation  at  largo  will  feel,  but  the  whole 
civilized  world.  When  this  regret  is  felt,  and  every 
eoul  has  perished,  such  a  mission  as  I  have  proposed 
will  be  urged  again  and  again  for  adoption  ;  for  it  is 
impossible  that  the  country  will  rest  satisfied  until  a 
search  be  made  for  the  remains  of  the  lost  expedition; 
"The  fact  that  all  lands  which  have  a  wester  aspect 
are  generally  ice-free,  which  I  dwelt  largely  upon  when 
Sir  John  Franklin  sailed,  must  have  had  weight  with 
the  gallant  officer  ;  he  will  therefore,  oh  finding  him- 
self m  a  serious  difficulty,  while  pushing  along  the  east- 
ern side  of  Victoria  Land,  at  once  fall  upon  the  western 
land  of  North  Boraers^t,  as  a  reftige  ground,  if  he  have 
the  opportunity.  The  eifort  by  Senring's  Strait  and 
Bftjiks*  Jjand  i?  praiseworthy  in  attempt,  but  forlorn  in 
hope.  In  the  foriper  effort,  it  is  assumed  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  has  n^ade  the  passage,  and  that  his  arrest  is 
between  the  Mackenzie  Kiver  and  Icy  Cape  ;  in  the 
latter,  that  Sir  James  Ross  will  reach  Banks'  Land,  and 
trace  its  continuity  to  Victoria  and  WoUaston  Land  j 


|.i 


4 


222 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


and  thus  make  the  *  passage.'  First,  We  have  no  rea- 
son to  believe  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  Sir  James 
Ross  will  be  more  fortunate  than  their  predecessors, 
and  we  cannot  trust  to  their  success.  Secondly,  We 
are  unable  to  assume  that  Sir  James  Koss  will  reach 
Bank's  Land  ;  Sir  E.  Parry  was  unable  to  reach  it,  and 
only  viewed  it  from  a  distance  ;  much  less  are  we  able 
to  assume  that  the  gallant  officer  will  find  a  high  road 
to  Victoria  Land,  which  is  altogether  a  terra  incognita. 

"'Mr.  T.  Simpson,  who  surveyed  the  arctic  coast 
comprised  between  the  Coppermine  and  Castor  and 
Pollux  Rivers,  has  set  that  (question  at  rest,  and  is  the 
only  authority  upon  the  subject.  '  A  further  explora- 
tion,' remarks  Mr.  Simpson,  from  the  most  eastern  limit 
of  his  journey, '  would  necessarily  demand  the  whole 
time  and  energies  of  another  expedition,  having  some 
point  of  retreat  much  nearer  to  tne  scene  of  operations 
than  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  Great  Bear  Lake  is  to  be 
the  retreat  of  Sir  John  Richardson.' 

"  What  retreat  could  Mr.  Simpson  have  meant  but 
Great  Slave  Lake,  the  retreat  of  the  land  party  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Ross  ?  and  what  other  roaa  to  the  unex- 
plored ground,  the  western  land  of  North  Somerset, 
could  that  traveler  have  meant  than  Great  Fish  River, 
that  stream  which  I  have  pointed  out  as  the  ice  free 
and  high  road  to  the  land  where  the  lost  expedition  is 
likely  to  be  found, — to  be  the  boundary  of  that  pass- 
age which  for  three  and  a  half  centuries  we  have  oeen 
in  vain  endeavoring  to  reach  in  ships  ? " 

Captain  Sir  W.  E.  Parry,  to  whom  Dr.  King's  pro- 
posal was  submitted  by  the  Admiralty,  thus  comments 
on  it : — 

"  Mv  former  opinion,  quoted  by  Dr.  King,  as  to  the 
difficulty  of  ships  penetrating  to  the  westward  beyond 
Cape  Dundas,  (the  southwestern  extremitv  of  Melville 
island,)  remains  unaltered  ;  and  I  should  expect  that 
Sir  Jphn  Franklin,  being  aware  of  this  difficulty,  would 
use  his  utmost  efforts  to  get  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward before  he  approached  that  point,  that  is,  between 
the  100th  and  110th  degree  of  longitude.    The  more  I 


1' 


OPINIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS 


^3 


/«. 


have  considered  this  subject,  (which  has  i  u  itZ^  occu- 
pied much  of  my  attention  lately,)  the  more  difficult  I 
find  it  to  conjecture  where  the  expedition  may  iuive 
stopped,  either  with  or  without  any  serious  accident  to 
the  ships  ;  but  as  no  information  has  reached  us  up  to 
this  time,  I  conceive  that  there  is  some  considerable 
probability  of  their  being  situated  somewhere  between 
the  longitude  I  have  just  named  ;  how  far  tkey  may 
have  penetrated  to  the  southward,  between  those  meri- 
dians, must  be  a  matter  of  speculation,  depending  on 
the  state  of  the  ice,  and  the  existence  of  land  in  a  space 
hitherto  blank  on  our  maps. 

"Be  this  as  it  may,  I  consider  it  not  improbable  as 
suggested  by  Dr.  King,  that  an  attempt  will  be  irade 
by  them  to  fall  back  on  the  western  coast  of  I^  rth 
Somerset,  wherever  that  may  be  found,  as  being  the 
nearest  point  affording  a  hope  of  communication,  ei  lier 
with  whalers  or  with  ships  sent  expressly  in  searci  of 
the  expedition. 

"Agreeing  thus  far  with  Dr.  King,  I  am  compo  led 
to  differ  with  him  entirely  as  to  the  readiest  mod  of 
reaching  that  coast,  because  I  feel  satisfied  that,  a' ith 
the  resources  of  the  expedition  now  equipping  iir  ler 
Sir  James  Boss,  the  energy,  skill,  and  mtelligence  of 
that  officer  will  render  it  a  matter  of  no  very  diffi  ult 
enterprise  to  examine  the  coast  in  question,  either  v  ith 
liis  ships,  boats,  or  traveling  parties ;  whereas  an  at- 
tempt to  reach  that  coast  by  an  expedition  from  the 
continent  of  America  must,  as  it  appears  to  me,  be  3X- 
tremely  hazardous  and  uncertain.  And  as  I  under- 
stand it  to  be  their  lordships'  intention  to  direct  Sir 
James  Ross  to  station  one  of  nis  ships  somewhere  al)out 
Cape  Walker,  while  the  other  proceeds  on  the  search, 
and  likewise  to  equip  his  boats  specially  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  the  various  coasts  and  inlets,  1  am 
decidedly  of  opinion,  that,  as  regards  the  western  coast 
of  North  Somerset,  this  plan  will  be  much  more  likely 
to  answer  the  proposed  object,  than  any  overland 
expedition.  This  object  will,  of  course,  be  the  more 
easily  accomplished  in  case  of  Sir  James  Ross  finding 


ir 


I! 


!.1 


'^- 


HI 


i 


224 


I'ROOEESS  OF  AKCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


the  western  coast  of  North  Somerset  navigable  for  his 
ships. 

"  In  regard  to  Dr.  King's  suggestion  respecting  Yic 
toria  Land  and  WoUaston  Land,  supposing  Sir  John 
Franklin's  ships  to  have  been  arrested  between  the 
meridians  to  which  I  have  already  alluded,  it  does 
seem,  by  an  inspection  of  the  map,  not  improbable  that 
parties  may  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  continent  in 
that  direction  ;  but  not  being  well  acquainted  with  the 
facilities  for  reaching  the  coast  of  America  opposite 
those  lands  in  the  manner  proposed  by  Dr.  King,  I  am 
not  competent  to  judge  of  its  practicability." 

Nearly  the  whole  of  the  west  coast  of  North  Somer- 
set and  Boothia  was,  (it  will  be  found  hereafter,)  ex- 
plored by  parties  in  boats  detached  jfrom  Sir  James 
Ross's  ships  in  1849. 

I  append,  also,  the  most  important  portions  of  Sir 
James  Koss's  remarks  on  Dr.  King's  plan. 

"  Dr.  King  begins  by  assuming  that  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  attempted  to  push  the  ships  through  to  the  west- 
ward, between  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land,  (al- 
though directly  contrary  to  his  instructions ;)  that  hav- 
ing been  arrested  by  insurmountable  difficulties,  he 
would  have  '  tm'ned  the  prows  of  his  vessels  to  tlie 
south  and.  west,  according  as  Banks'  Land  tends  for 
Victoria  or  WoUaston  Land ;'  and  having  been  wrecked, 
or  from  any  other  cause  obliged  to  abandon  their  ships, 
their  crews  would  take  to  tne  boats,  and  make  for  the 
west  coast  of  North  Somerset. 

"If  the  expedition  had  failed  to  penetrate  to  the 
westward  between  Banks'  Land  and  Melville  Island,  it 
is  very  probable  it  would  have  next  attempted  to  gain 
the  continent  by  a  more  southerly  course  ;  and  suppos- 
ing that,  after  making  only  small  progress,  (say  100 
mues,)  to  the  southwest,  it  should  have  been  then  finally 
stopped  or  wrecked,  the  calamity  will  have  occurred 
in  about  latitude  72  i°  N.,  and  longitude  115°  W.  This 
point  is  only  280  miles  from  the  Coppermine  River 
and  420  miles  from  the  Mackenzie,  either  of  whicl 
would,  therefore,  be  easily  attainable,  and  at  each  of 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


225 


wliicb,  abundance  of  provision  might  be  procured  by 
them,  and  their  return  to  England  a  measure  of  no 
great  difficulty. 

"  At  the  point  above  mentioned,  the  distance  from 
the  west  coast  of  North  Somerset  is  probably  about  360 
miles,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Fiflll  River  full  500 ; 
at  neither  of  these  places  could  they  hope  to  obtain  a 
single  day's  provisions  for  so  larse  a  party ;  and  Sir 
John  Franklin's  intimate  knowledge  of  the  impossibil- 
ity of  ascending  that  river,  or  obtaining  any  food  for 
his  party  in  passing  through  the  Barren  grounds,  would 
concur  in  deterring  him  from  attempting  to  gain  either 
of  these  points. 

"  I  think  it  most  probable  that,  from  the  situation 
pointed  out,  he  would,  when  compelled  to  abandon  his 
ships,  endeavor  in  the  boats  to  retrace  his  steps,  and 
passing  through  the  channel  by  which  he  had  advanced, 
and  which  we  have  alwavs  found  of  easy  navigation, 
seek  the  whale  ships  whicn  annually  visit  the  west  coast 
of  Baffin's  Bay. 

"  It  is  far  more  probable,  however,  that  Sir  John 
Franklin,  in  obedience  to  his  instructions,  would  en 
deavor  to  push  the  ships  to  the  south  and  west  as  soon 
as  they  passed  Cape  Walker,  and  the  consequence  of 
such  a  measure,  owing  to  the  known  prevalence  of 
westerly  wind,  and  the  drift  of  the  main  body  of  the 
ice,  would  be  (in  my  opinion)  their  inevitable  embarrass- 
ment, and  if  he  persevered  in  that  direction  which  he 
probably  would  do,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  my 
conviction  he  would  never  be  able  to  extricate  his 
ships,  and  would  ultimately  be  obliged  to  abandon  them. 
It  is  tlierefore  in  latitude  73°  N".  and  longitude  105°  W. 
that  we  may  expect  to  find  them  involved  in  the  ice, 
or  shut  up  in  some  harbor.  This  is  almost  the  only 
point  in  which  it  is  likely  they  would  be  detained,  or 
from  which  it  would  not  be  possible  to  convey  informa- 
tion of  their  situation  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements. 

"  If,  then,  we  suppose  the  crews  of  the  ships  should 
be  compelled,  either  this  autumn  or  next  spring,  to 
abandon  their  vessels  at  or  near  this  point,  they  wouM 


f| 


u 


4v 

Si 

I' 


f.? 


226 


PROOhKsa  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


most  assuredly  endeavor,  in  their  boats,  to  reach  Lan- 
caster Sound ;  but  I  cannot  conceive  any  position  in 
which  they  could  be  placed  from  which  they  would 
make  for  the  Great  Fish  Kiver,  or  at  which  any  party 
descending  that  river  would  be  likely  to  overtake  them ; 
and  even  if  it  dW,  of  what  advantage  could  it  be  to 
them? 

"  If  Dr.  King  and  his  party,  in  their  single  canoe, 
did  fall  in  with  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  on  the 
west  coast  of  North  Somerset,  how  does  he  propose  to 
assist  them  ?  he  would  barely  have  sufficient  provision 
for  his  own  party,  and  would  more  probably  be  in  a 
condition  to  require  rather  than  afford  relief.  He  could 
only  tell  them  what  Sir  John  Franklin  already  knows, 
from  former  experience,  far  better  than  l)r.  King,  that  it 
would  be  impossible  for  so  large  a  party,  or  indeed  any 
party  not  previously  provided,  to  travel  across  the  bar- 
ren grounds  to  any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements." 

"  AH  that  has  been  done  by  the  way  of  search  since 
February,  1848,  tends,"  persists  Dr.  King,  "  to  draw 
attention  closer  and  closer  to  the  western  land  of  North 
Somerset,  as  the  position  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  to 
the  G-reat  Fish  (or  Back)  River,  as  the  high  road  to 
reach  it." 

Dr.  Eang  has  twice  proposed  to  the  Admiralty  to 
proceed  on  the  search  by  this  route.  "  It  would,"  he 
states,  "  be  the  happiest  moment  of  my  life  (aud  my 
delight  at  being  selected  from  a  long  list  of  volunteers, 
for  tne  relief  of  Sir  John  Ross,  was  very  great)  if  their 
lordships  would  allow  me  to  go  by  my  old  route,  the 
Great  Fish  River,  to  attempt  to  save  human  life  a  sec- 
ond time  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea.  What  I  did 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Ross  is  the  best  earnest  of  what 
I  could  do  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin." 

A  meeting  of  those  officers  and  gentlemen  most  con- 
versant with  arctic  voyages  was  convened  by  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  on  the  if  th  of 
January,  1849,  at  which  the  following  were  present :  — 
Rear- Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  K.  C.  B.,  Captain 
Sir  W.  E.  Parry,  R.  N.,  Captain  Sir  George  Back,  B. 


of 


OPINIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


227 


N.,  Captain  Sir  E.  Belcher,  R.  N.,  Colonel  Sabine,  R. 
A.,  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  Scoresby. 

A  very  pretty  painting,  containing  portraits  of  all  the 
principal  arctic  voyagers  in  consultation  on  these  mo- 
mentous matters,  has  been  made  by  Mr.  Pearse,  artist, 
of  63,  Berners  Street,  Oxford  Street,  which  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  beautiful  Arctic  Panorama  of 
Mr.  Burford,  in  Leicester  Square,  will  also  give  a 
graphic  idea  of  the  scenery  and  appearance  of  the  icy 
regions;  the  whole  being  designed  from  authentic 
sketches  by  Lieut.  Browne,  now  of  the  Resolute,  and 
who  was  out  in  the  Enterprise  in  her  trip  in  1848,  and 
also  with  Sir  James  Ross  in  his  antarctic  voyage. 

The  expedition  under  Sir  James  Ross  having  re- 
turned unsuccessful,  other  measures  of  relief  were  now 
determined  on,  and  the  opinions  of  the  leading  officers 
again  taken. 

Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  in  his  report  to  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  on  jSTovember 
24th,  1849,  observes :  — 

"  There  are  four  ways  only  in  which  it  is  likely  that 
the  Erebus  and  Terror  woula  have  been  lost  —  by  fire, 
by  sunken  rocks,  by  storm,  or  by  being  crushed  be- 
tween two  fields  of  ice.  Both  vessels  would  scarcely 
have  taken  fire  together ;  if  one  of  them  had  struck  on  a 
rock  the  other  would  have  avoided  the  danger.  Storms 
in  those  narrow  seas,  encumbered  with  ice,  raise  no 
swell,  and  could  produce  no  such  disaster ;  and  there- 
fore, by  the  fourth  cause  alone  could  the  two  vessels 
have  been  at  once  destroyed ;  and  even  in  that  casd 
the  crews  would  have  escaped  upon  the  ice  (as  happens 
every  year  to  the  whalers ;)  they  would  have  saved 
their  loose  boats,  and  reached  some  part  of  the  American 
shores.  As  no  traces  of  any  such  event  have  been  found 
on  any  part  of  those  shores,  it  may  therefore  be  safely 
affirmed  that  one  ship  at  least,  and  both  the  crews, 
are  still  in  existence ;  and  therefore  the  point  where 
they  now  are  is  the  great  matter  for  consideration. 

"Their  ordere  would  have  carried  them  toward  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  then  out  to  the  westward,  where  it  is 


»•- 


]<  \r- 


228 


P110GRES8  OF  ARCTIC  DISOOVERl 


therefore  probable  that  they  are  entangle*  amonff 
islands  ana  ice.  For  should  they  have  been  arrested 
at  some  intermediate  place,  for  instance,  Cape  Walker, 
or  at  one  of  the  northervi  chain  of  islands,  tliey  would, 
undoubtedly,  in  the  course  of  the  three  following  years, 
have  contrived  some  method  of  sending  notices  of  theii 
iK)sition  to  the  shores  of  North  Somerset  or  to  Barrow's 
Strait. 

"If  they  had  reached  much  to  the  southward  of 
Bank's  Land,  they  would  surely  have  communicated 
with  the  tribes  on  Mackenzie  Eiver ;  and  if,  failing  to 
get  to  the  westward  or  southward,  they  had  returned 
with  the  intention  of  penetrating  through  Wellington 
Channel,  they  would  have  detached  parties  on  the  ice 
toward  Barrow's  Strait,  in  order  to  have  deposited 
statements  of  their  intentions. 

"  The  general  conclusion,  therefore,  remains,  that  they 
are  still  locked  up  in  the  Archipelago  to  the  westward 
of  Melville  Islana.  Now,  it  is  well  known  that  the 
state  of  the  weather  alternates  between  the  opposite 
sides  of  Northern  America,  being  mild  on  the  one  when 
rigorous  on  the  other ;  and  accordingly,  during  the  two 
last  years,  which  have  been  unusually  severe  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  the  United  States  whalers  were  successfully  trav- 
ersing the  Polar  Sea  to  the  northward  of  Benring's 
Straits.  The  same  severe  weather  may  possibly  prevail 
on  the  eastern  side  during  the  summer  of  1850,  and  if 
so,  it  is  obvious  that  an  attempt  should  be  now  made 
by  the  western  opening,  and  not  merely  to  receive  the 
two  ships,  if  they  should  be  met  coming  out  (as  for- 
merly,) but  to  advance  in  the  direction  of  Melville 
Island,  resolutely  entering  the  ice,  and  employing  every 
possible  expedient  by  sledging  parties,  by  reconnoitering 
balloons,  and  by  blasting  the  ice,  to  communicate  with 
them.     ' 

"These  vessels  should  be  intrepidly  commanded, 
effectively  manned,  and  supplied  with  the  best  means 
for  traveling  across  the  ice  to  the  English  or  to  the 
Russian  setSements,  as  it  will  be  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance to  be  informed  of  what  progress  the  expedition 


OPINIONS    AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


220 


has  made;  and  for  this  purpose  likewise  tlic  Plover 
will  be  of  material  service,  lying  at  some  advanced 
poiJiK  near  Icy  Cape,  and  readv  to  receive  intelligence, 
and  to  convey  it  to  Petropaulski  or  to  Panama. 

"  These  vessels  should  enter  Behring's  Straits  before 
the  first  of  August,  and  therefore  every  effort  should 
be  now  made  to  dispatch  them  from  England  before 
Cliristmas.  They  might  water  at  the  Falkland  Islands, 
and  again  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  they  would 
be  ready  to  receive  additional  instructions  via  Panama, 
l)y  one  of  the  Pacific  steamers,  and  by  which  vessel 
they  might  be  pushed  on  some  little  distance  to  the 
northward. 

"  It  seems  to  me  likely  that  the  ships  have  been  push- 
ing on,  summer  after  summer,  in  the  direction  of  13ehr- 
ing's  Straits,  and  are  detained  somewhere  in  the  space 
Bouthwestward  of  Banks'  Land.  On  the  other  hand, 
should  they,  after  the  first  or  second  summer,  have  been 
unsuccessful  in  that  direction,  they  may  have  attempted 
to  proceed  to  the  northward,  either  through  Wellington 
Channel,  or  through  some  other  of  the  openings  among 
the  same  group  of  islands.  I  do  not  myself  attach  any 
superior  importance  to  Wellington  Channel  as  regards 
the  northwest  passage,  but  I  understand  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  did,  and  tnat  he  strongly  expressed  to  Lord 
Haddington  his  intention  of  attempting  that  route,  if 
he  should  fail  in  eifecting  the  more  direct  passage  to 
the  westward. 

"The  ships  having  been  fully  victualed  for  three 
years,  the  resources  inay,  by  due  precautions,  have 
been  extended  to  four  years  for  the  whole  crews ;  but 
it  has  occurred  to  me,  since  I  had  the  honor  of  confer- 
ring with  their  lordships,  that,  if  their  numbers  have 
been  gradually  diminished  to  any  considerable  extent 
by  death,  (a  contingency  which  is  but  too  probable,  con- 
sidering their  unparalleled  detention  in  the  ice,)  the 
resources  would  be  proportion  ably  extended  for  the 
survivors,  whom  it  might,  therefore,  be  found  ex])edieiit 
to  transfer  to  one  of  the  ships,  with  all  the  remaining 
stores,  and  with  that  one  shij^  to  continue  the  endeavor 


\m 


230 


PBOaBESS   OF   AECTIO   DISCOVERT. 


to  push  westward,  or  to  return  to  the  eastward,  as  cir- 
cumstances might  render  expedient ;  in  that  case,  the 
necessity  for  quitting  both  the  ships  in  the  past  sum- 
mer might  not  improbably  have  been  obviated. 

"  Under  these  circumstances,  which,  it  must  be  admit 
ted,  amount  to  no  more  than  mere  conjecture,  it  seems 
to  me  expedient  still  to  prosecute  the  search  in  both 
directions,  namely,  by  way  of  Behring's  Strait  (to  which 
I  look  with  the  strongest  hope,)  and  also  by  that  of 
Barrow's  Strait.  In  the  latter  direction,  it  ought,  I 
think,  to  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  more  than  usual 
difficulties  with  which  Sir  James  Boss  had  to  contend, 
have,  in  reality,  left  us  with  very  little  more  informa- 
tion than  before  he  left  £ngland,  and  I  cannot  contem- 
plate without  serious  apprehension,  leaving  that  opening 
without  still  further  search  in  the  ensuing  spnng,  in 
case  the  missing  crews  have  fallen  back  to  the  eastern 
coast  of  North  Somerset,  where  they  would  naturally 
look  for  supplies  to  be  deposited  for  them,  in  addition 
to  the  chance  of  finding  some  of  those  left  by  the  Fury. 
For  the  purpose  of  further  pursuing  the  search  by  way 
of  Barrow's  Strait,  perhaps  two  small  vessels  of  160  or 
200  tons  might  suffice,  but  they  must  be  square  rigged 
for  the  navigation  among  the  ice.  Of  course  the  object 
of  such  vessels  would  be  nearly  that  which  Sir  James 
Boss's  endeavors  have  failed  to  accomplish ;  and  the 
provisions,  &c.,  left  by  that  officer  at  Whaler  Point, 
as  well  as  any  which  may  be  deposited  in  that  neigh- 
borhood by  the  Noiih  Star,  would  greatly  add  to  the  re- 
sources, facilitate  the  operations,  and  lessen  the  risk  of 
any  attempt  made  in  tnat  direction. 

"  If,  however,  there  be  time  to  get  ships  to  Behring's 
Straits  by  the  first  week  in  August,  1850,  which  woi3d 
perhaps  require  the  aid  of  steam  /essels  to  accomplish 
with  any  degrea  of  certainty,  I  recommend  that  the 
Enterpnse  and  Investigator  be  forthwith  equipped  and 
dispatched  there,  with  instructions  to  push  through  the 
ice  to  the  £.  N.  £.  as  far  as  possible  in  the  ensuing  sca- 
pon,  with  the  hope  of  meeting  with  at  least  one  of  the 
ships,  or  any  of  the  parcies  which  may  have  been 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


231 


n 


detached  from  them.  This  attempt  has  never  yet  been 
made  by  any  ships,  and  I  cling  very  strongly  to  the 
belief  that  such  an  effort  might  be  attended  with  suc- 
cess in  rescuing  at  least  a  portion  of  our  people. 

"  My  reason  for  urging  this  upon  their  Lordships  is, 
that  the  admirable  instructions  under  which  the  Plover, 
assisted  by  the  Herald,  is  acting,  embraces  only  tho 
search  of  the  coast  line  eastward  from  Icy  Cape ;  since 
the  boats  and  baidars  cannot  effect  any  thing  except  by 
creeping  along  as  opportunities  offer,  between  the  ice 
and  the  land,  so  that  tnis  plan  of  operations  meets  only 
the  contingency  of  parties  reaching,  or  nearly  reaching, 
the  land  ;  whereas  the  chance  ol  rescue  would,  as  it 
appears  to  me,  be  immensely  increased  by  ships  push- 
ing on,  clear  of  the  coast,  toward  Banks'  Land  and 
Melville  Island,  as  far  at  least  as  might  be  practicable 
in  the  best  five  or  six  weeks  of  the  season  of  1850." 

Captain  Parry  says  — "Although  this  is  the  first  at- 
tempt ever  made  to  enter  the  ice  in  this  direction,  with 
ships  properly  equipped  for  the  purpose,  there  is  no 
reason  to  anticipate  any  greater  difficulties  in  this  navi- 

fation  than  those  encountered  in  other  parts  of  the 
lorth  Polar  Sea ;  and,  even  in  the  event  of  not  suc- 
ceeding in  reaching  Banks'  Land  in  the  summer  of  the 
present  year,  it  may  be  possible  to  make  such  progress 
as  to  afford  a  reasonable  hope  of  effecting  that  object 
in  the  following  season  (1851.)  Indeed  it  is  possible 
that,  from  the  well  known  fact  of  the  climate  being 
more  temperate  in  a  given  parallel  of  latitude,  in  going 
westward  from  the  Mackenzie  Kiver,  some  comparative 
advantage  mav  be  derived  in  the  navigation  of  this 
part  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

"  It  is  of  importance  to  the  security  of  the  ships  and 
of  their  crews  that  they  should  winter  in  some  harbor 
or  bay  not  at  a  distance  from  land,  where  the  ice  might 
be  in  motion  during  the  winter ;  and  it  will  be  desira- 
ble, should  no  land  be  discovered  fit  for  this  purpose, 
in  the  space  at  present  unexplored  between  Point  Bar- 
row and  Banks'  Land,  that  endeavors  should  be  made  to 
reach  the  continent  about  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie 


232 


PROGRESS    OB'    ARCTIC    TUSOOVKUY. 


River,  or  further  eastward,  toward  Liverpool  Bay, 
w  licri'  tliere  is  reason  to  suppose  tliat  sutKcieiit  shelter 
\ui\.y  l)e  found,  and  in  which  neighljurhood,  it  appears, 
there  is  generally  no  ice  to  he  seen  from  the  shore  for 
ul)out  six  weeks  in  the  months  of  August  and  ^eptem- 
her.  Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  of  his  second  jour 
ney,  that  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  and  the 
Admiralty  Charts,  will  furnish  the  requisite  hydro 
grai)liical  information  relative  to  this  line  of  coast,  se 
tar  as  it  has  been  attained. 

"  The  utmost  economy  should  be  exercised  in  the  use 
of  provisions  and  fuel  uuring  the  time  the  ships  are  in 
winter  quarters  ;  and  if  they  should  winter  on  or  near 
tiie  continent,  there  would  probably  be  an  opportunity 
of  increasing  their  stock  of  provisions  by  means  of 
game  or  iish,  and  likewise  of  fuel,  by  drift  or  other 
wood,  to  some  considerable  amount. 

"If  the  progress  of  the  ships  in  1850  has  been  con- 
siderable— for  instance,  as  far  as  the  meridian  of  120° 
W. —  the  probability  is,  that  the  most  practicable  way 
of  returning  to  England  will  be,  still  to  push  on  in  the 
same  direction  during  the  whole  season  of  1851,  with 
a  view  to  reach  Barrow's  Strait,  and  take  advantage, 
if  necessary,  of  the  resources  left  by  Captain  Sir  James 
lloss  at  Whaler  Point,  near  Leopola  Harbor ;  if  not  the 
same  season,  at  least  after  a  second  winter.  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  small  progress  should  have  been  made  to 
the  eastward  at  the  close  of  the  present  summer,  it 
might  be  prudept  that  when  half  the  navigable  season 
of  1851  shall  have  expired,  no  further  attempts  should 
be  made  in  proceeding  to  the  eastward,  and  that  the 
remaining  half  of  that  season  should  be  occupied  in 
returning  to  the  westward,  with  a  view  to  escape  from 
the  ice  by  way  of  Behring's  Straits  after  the  winter  of 
1851-52,  so  as  not  to  incur  the  risk  of  passing  a  third 
winter  in  the  ice. 

"  During  the  summer  season,  the  most  vigilant  look- 
out should  be  kept  from  the  mast-heads  of  both  ships 
nigiit  and  day,  not  only  for  the  missing  ships,  but  tor 
Any  detached  parties  belonging  to  them  ;  and  during 


the 
le  to 


look- 
ships 


OPlNh'KS    ANlJ    SUGUKSIIONS. 


233 


tlie  few  hours  of  darkness  wliicli  prevail  toward  the  close 
vi'  each  Huasoii's  iuivi«^ation,  and  also  when  lit  wiiiti'r 
(juarters,  signals,  by  lires,  blue  li«j;lits,  rockets  or  jL;;iins, 
shoidd  be  made  as  the  means  of  pointing  out  the  posi- 
tion of  the  ships  to  any  detached  parties  belonging  to 
tlie  missing  expedition.  And  in  the  spring  before  the 
ships  can  be  released  from  the  ice,  searching  j)artles 
might  be  sent  out  in  various  directions,  either  in  boats 
or  by  land,  to  examine  the  nelgldjoring  coasts  and  inlets 
for  any  trace  of  the  missing  crews/' 

Captain  Sir  George  Back  also  comments  (1st  of  Do- 
(■end)er,  18-19,)  on  these  intentions,  in  a  letter  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  the  Admiralty  : — 

'•  ion  will  be  pleased.  Sir,  to  Impress  upon  my  Lords 
Commissioners,  that  I  wholly  reject  all  and  every  idea 
of  any  attempts  on  the  part  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to 
send  boats  or  detachments  over  the  ice  to  any  part  of 
tlic  main-land  eastward  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  because 
I  can  say  from  experience,  tliat  no  toil-worn  and  ex- 
luiusted  party  could  have  the  least  chance  of  existence 
bv  i>'oin<x  there. 

''  On  the  other  hand,  from  my  knowledge  of  Sir  John 
Franklin,  (having  been  three  times  on  discovery  to- 
gether,) I  much  doubt  if  he  would  quit  his  ship  at  all, 
except  in  u  boat ;  for  any  attempt  to  cross  the  ice  a  long 
distance  on  foot  would  bo  tempting  deatii ;  and  it  is  too 
hiliorious  a  task  to  sledge  far  over  such  an  imeven  sur- 
face as  those  regions  generally  present.  That  great 
mortality  must  have  occurred,  ana  that  one  ship,  as  Sir 
K.  Beaufort  hints  at,  may  be  lost,  are  greatly  to  be  feared  ; 
and,  as  on  all  former  expeditions,  if  the  survivors  are 
])aralyzed  by  the  depressing  attacks  of  sc^irvy,  it  would 
then  be  impossible  for  them,  however  desirous  they 
miglit  be,  to  leave  the  ship,  which  must  thus  become 
tlieir  last  most  anxious  abode. 

"If,  however,  open  water  should  have  allowed  Sir 
John  Franklin  to  have  resorted  to  his  boats,  then  I  am 
persuaded  he  would  make  for  either  the  Mackenzie 
Kiver,  or,  which  is  far  more  likely,  from  the  almost 
certainty  he  must  have  felt  of  finding  provision,  Capo 


n 


234 


ritOGKKSS    OF    AKCIIO    DISCOVKRV. 


I 


"  I  am  awuro  that  tlio  wliolo  cjianccs  of  lite  in  this 
)aintul  case  depend  on  food ;  bnt  wiicn  1  refleet  on 
sir  John  Franklin's  former  extraordinary  preservation 
imder  miseries  and  trials  of  the  most  severe  description, 
living  otlen  on  8cra))S  of  old  leather  and  other  refuse,  I 
cannot  despair  of  his  finding  the  means  to  prolong  exist- 
ence till  aid  be  happily  sent^^liim." 

Dr.  Sir  John  Richardson  on  the  same  day  also  sends 
in  his  opinion,  as  requested,  on  the  proposed  dispatch 
of  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator  to  Beliring's  Strait : 
' "  It  seems  to  me  to  be  very  desirable  that  the  western 
shores  of  the  Archipelago  of  Parry's  Islands  should  bo 
searched  in  a  high  latitude  in  the  manner  proposed  by 
the  hydrograi>her. 

"If  the  proposed  expedition  succeeds  in  establishing 
its  winter  quarters  among  these  islands,  parties  de- 
tached over  the  ice  may  travel  to  the  eastward  and 
soutlieastward,  so  as  to  cross  the  line  of  search  which  it 
is  hoped  Mr.  Rao  has  been  able  to  pureuo  in  the  present 
summer,  and  thus  to  determine  wnether  any  traces  of 
the  missing  ships  exist  in  localities  the  most  remote 
from  Behrmg's  Strait  and  Lancaster  Sound,  and  from 
whence  shipwrecked  crews  would  find  the  greatest  diffi- 
culty in  traveling  to  any  place  wliere  they  could  hope 
to  find  relief. 

"  The  climate  of  Arctic  America  improves  in  a  sensi- 
ble manner  with  an  increase  of  western  longitude.  On 
the  Mackenzie,  on  the  135th  meridian,  the  summer  is 
warmer  than  in  any  district  of  the  continent  in  the  same 

{)arallel,  and  it  is  still  finer,  and  the  vegetation  more 
uxuriant  on  the  banks  of  the  Yucon,  on  the  150th  me- 
ridian. This  superiority  of  climate  leads  me  to  infer, 
that  ships  well  fortified  against  drift-ice,  will  find  tlie 
navigation  of  the  Arctic  Seas  more  practicable  in  its 
western  portion  than  it  has  been  founa  to  the  eastward. 
This  inference  is  supported  by  my  own  personal  expe- 
rience, as  far  as  it  goes.  I  met  with  no  ice  in  the  month 
of  August,  on  my  late  voyage,  till  I  attainea  the  123d 
meridian,  and  which  I  was  led,  from  that  circumstance, 
to  suppose  coincided  with  the  western  limits  of  Parry's 
Archipelago. 


Ol'INIONS    AND  SLOOKSTlUNS. 


235 


*Tlio  grcfttertiicility  ot*  navigating  from  tlic  west  has 
Leon  i)uwert*»lly  advocated  by  others  on  furiiier  occa- 
Bions ;  and  tlio  chief,  ])erliap8  the  only  reason  why  the 
attempt  to  ))cnctrato  tiio  Polar  Sea  from  that  (luarter 
lias  not  been  resumed  since  the  time  of  Cook  is,  tiiat 
tlie  length  of  the  previous  voyage  to  Behring's  Strait 
would  considerably  diminish  the  store  of  ])rovibion8 ; 
but  the  facilities  ot  obtaining  supplies  in  the  Pacific  are 
now  80  augmented,  that  this  objection  has  no  longer  thu 
same  force." 

Cai)tain  F.  W.  Beechey,  writing  from  Cheltenham, 
on  the  Ist  of  December,  1849,  says  : — 

"I  quite  agree  with  Sir  Francis  Beaufort  in  what  ho 
has  stated  with  regard  to  any  casualties  which  Sir  J. 
Franklin's  6hii)s  may  have  sustained,  and  entirel  v  agree 
with  him  and  Sir  Edward  Parry,  that  the  expc(ution  \n 
])robably  hampered  among  the  ice  somewhere  to  the 
southwcstward  of  Melville  Island  ;  but  there  is  yet  a 
])os8ibility  which  does  not  appear  to  have  been  contem- 
]»lated,  wliicli  is,  that  of  the  scurvy  having  spread  among 
the  crew,  and  incapacitated  a  large  proportion  of  thoni 
iVom  making  any  exertion  toward  their  release,  or  that 
the  whole,  in  a  debilitated  state,  may  yet  be  clinging 
by  their  vessels,  existing  sparingly  upon  the  provision 
wiiich  a  large  mortality  may  have  spun  out,  in  the  hope 
of  relief. 

"  In  the  first  case,  that  of  the  sliips  being  hampered 
and  the  crews  in  good  health,  I  think  it  certain  that,  as 
tlie  resources  of  the  ships  would  bo  expended  in  May 
last,  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew  have  abandoned 
tlie  ships,  and  pushed  forward  for  the  nearest  point 
where  they  might  reasonably  expect  assistance,  and 
which  they  could  reasonably  reach. 

"There  are  consequently  three  points  to  which  it 
would  be  proper  to  airect  attention,  and  as  the  case  is 
urgent,  every  possible  method  of  relief  should  be  ener- 
getically ])ushed  forward  at  as  early  a  period  as  possi- 
dIc,  and  directed  to  those  points,  which,!  need  scarcely 
say,  are  Barrow's  Strait,  Behring's  Strait,  and  the 
northern  coast  of  America. 


23G 


PKOGliESS    OF   AliCnC   DISCO V  Eli Y. 


"  Of  the  measures  which  can  be  resorted  to  on  thi 
northern  coast  of  America,  the  officers  who  have  hao 
experience  there,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  will 
be  able  to  judge ;  but  I  am  of  opinion  that  nothing 
should  be  neglected  in  that  quarter  ;  for  it  seems  to 
nie  almost  certain  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew, 
if  able  to  travel,  have  abandoned  their  ships  and  made 
for  the  continent ;  and  if  they  have  not  succeeded  in 
gaining  the  Hudson's  Bay  outposts,  they  have  been 
overtaken  by  winter  before  they  could  accomplish  their 
purpose. 

"  Lastly  as  to  the  opinion  which  naturally  forces  itself 
upon  us,  as  to  the  utility  of  the  sending  relief  to  per- 
sons whose  means  of  subsistence  will  have  failed  them 
more  than  a  year  by  the  time  the  relief  could  reach 
them,  I  would'  observe,  that  a  prudent  reduction  of  the 
allowance  may  have  been  timely  made  to  meet  an 
emergency,  or  great  mortality  may  have  enabled  the 
survivors  to  subsist  up  to  the  time  required,  or  it  may 
bj  that  the  crews  have  just  missed  reaching  the  points 
visited  by  our  parties  last  year  before  they  quitted  them, 
:iii.l  in  the  one  case  may  now  be  subsisting  on  the  sup- 
j>lies  at  Leopold  Island,  or  be  housed  in  eastward  of  Point 
LtiiTow,  sustaiued  by  depots  which  have  been  fallen  in 
with,  or  by  tlie  native  supplies  ;  so  that  under  all  the 
circumstancjGs,  I  do  not  consider  their  condition  so 
utterly  hopeless  that  we  should  give  up  the  expectation 
of  yet  being  able  to  render  them  a  timely  assistance. 

"  The  endeavors  to  push  forward  might  be  continued 
until  the  30th  of  August,  at  latest,  at  'vAich  time,  if  th< 
ships  be  not  near  some  land  where  they  can  conven 
iently  ])ass  a  winter,  they  must  direct  their  course  for 
the  main-land,  and  seek  a  secure  harbor  in  which  they 
could  remain.  And  on  no  account  should  they  risk  a 
winter  in  the  pack,  in  consequence  of  the  tides  and 
shallow  water  lying  off  the  coast. 

"Should  the  expedition  reach  Herschel  Island,  or 
any  other  place  of  refuge  on  the  coast  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie  or  Colville  Rivers,  endeavors  should 
be  made  to  communicate  information  of  the  ships'  posi- 


Lnd,  or 

1  mouth 

should 

Ls'  posi- 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


237 


tioti  ikhJi  snmmer's  proceedings  through  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Oonipany  or  Russian  settlements,  and  by  means 
of  iuCerpreters  ;  and  no  opportunity  should  be  omitted 
of  gaining  from  the  natives  information  of  the  missing 
ressels,  as  well  as  of  any  boat  expeditions  that  may  have 
^one  forward,  as  well  as  of  the  party  under  Dr.  Rae. 

"  If  nothing  should  be  heard  ot  Sir  John  Franklin  in 
1850,  parties  of  observation  should  be  sent  forward  in 
the  spring  to  intercept  the  route  the  ship  would  have 
pursued,  and  in  other  useful  directions  between  winter 
quarters  and  Melville  Island  ;  taking  especial  care  that 
tney  return  to  the  ship  before  the  time  of  liberation 
of  the  ships  arrives,  which  greatly  depends  upon  their 
locality. 

"  Then,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  should  any 
favorable  appearance  of  the  ice  present  itself,  the  expe- 
dition might  be  left  free  to  take  advantage  of  such  a 
prospect,  or  to  return  round  Point  Barrow  ;  making  it 
imperative,  however,  either  to  insure  their  return,  so 
far  as  human  foresight  may  be  exercised,  or  the  cer- 
tainty of  their  reaching  Melville  Island  at  the  close  of 
that  season,  and  so  securing  their  return  to  England 
in  1852. 

"  If,  after  all,  any  unforeseen  event  should  detain  the 
ships  beyond  the  period  contemplated  above,  every 
exertion  should  be  used,  by  means  of  boats  and  in- 
terpreters, to  communicate  with  the  Mackenzie  ;  and 
should  any  casualty  render  it  necessary  to  abandon  the 
vessels,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  reserve-ship 
will  remain  at  her  quarters  until  the  autumn  of  1853, 
unless  she  hears  of  the  safety  of  the  ships  and  boats 
in  other  directions  ;  while  in  the  other  quarter.  Fort 
Macpherson,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mackenzie,  may  bo 
relied  upon  as  an  asylum. 

"The  Plover,  or  reserve-ship,  should  be  provided 
with  three  years'  provisions  for  her  own  crew,  and  for 
contingencies  besides.  She  should  be  placed  as  near 
as  possible  to  Point  Barrow,  and  provided  with  inter- 
preters, and  the  means  of  offering  rewards  for  infor- 
mation ]  and  she  should  remain  at  her  quarters  so  long 


f 

I 

I 


il'. 


238 


PBOOBEBS  OF   ABCTIC  DISCOVEBY. 


as  there  can  be  any  occasion  for  her  presence  in  u  6 
Arctic  Seas  ;  or,  if  she  does  not  hear  any  thing  ol  t.je 
expedition  under  Captain  Collinson,  as  long  as  her 
provisions  will  last." 

Sir  John  Richardson  offers  the  following  advice  for 
this  expedition: — "If,"  he  says,  "it  should  winter 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Yucan  or  Colville,  that  river 
may  be  ascended  in  a  boat  in  the  montli  of  June,  be- 
fore the  sea  ice  begins  to  give  way.  The  river  varies 
in  width  from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  two  miles,  and 
flows  through  a  rich,  well-wooded  valley,  abounding  in 
moose  deer,  and  having  a  comparatively  mild  climate. 
A  Bussian  trading  post  has  been  built  on  it,  at  the  dis 
tance  of  three  or  four  days'  voyage  from  the  sea,  with 
the  current ;  but  as  the  current  is  strong,  from  nine  to 
twelve  days  must  be  allowed  for  its  ascent,  with  the 
tracking  line.  It  would  be  unsafe  to  rely  upon  receiv- 
ing a  supply  of  provisions  at  the  Russian  post,  as  it  is 
not  likely  that  any  stock  beyond  what  is  necessary  for 
their  own  use  is  laid  up  by  the  traders ;  and  the  moose 
deer  being  a  very  shy  animal,  is  not  easily  shot  by  an 
unpracticed  hunter ;  but  the  reindeer  abound  on  the 
neighboring  hills,  and  ire  much  more  approachable. 
The  white-fronted  goose  also  breeds  in  vast  flocks  in 
that  district  of  the  country,  and  may  be  killed  in  num- 
bers, without  difficulty,  in  the  month  of  June. 

"If  the  expedition  should  winter  within  a  reason- 
able distance  of  the  Mackenzie,  Captain  Collinson 
may  have  it  in  his  power  to  send  dispatches  to  England 
by  that  route. 

"The  river  opens  in  June,  and  as  soon  as  the  ice 
ceases  to  drive,  may  be  ascended  in  a  boat,  with  a  fair 
wind,  under  sail,  or  with  a  tracking  line* 

"  The  lowest  post  at  present  occupied  by  the  Ilud- 
son's  Bay  Company  on  this  river  is  Fort  Good  Hope. 
The  site  of  this  post  has  been  changed  several  times, 
but  it  is  at  this  time  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in 
latitude  66°  16'  K.,  and  is  ten  or  eleven  days'  voyage 
from  the  sea.  At  Point  Separation,  opposite  to  the 
middle  channel  of  the  delta  of  the  river,  and  on  the 


P: 


c 

6 

a 
i: 
r 
1. 

0 

I 


OPINIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


239 


ice 
fair 

[ud- 

Lope. 

lines, 

Ir,  ill 

^age 

the 

the 


•<)romontoiy  which  separates  the  Peel  and  the  Mac- 
tenzie,  there  is  a  case  of  pemmican  (80  lbs.)  buried,  ten 
feet  distant  from  a  tree,  which  has  its  middle  branches 
lopped  off,  and  is  marked  on  the  trunk  with  a  broad 
arrow  in  black  paint.  A  fire  was  made  over  the  pit 
in  which  the  case  is  concealed,  and  the  remains  of  the 
charcoal  will  point  out  the  exact  spot.  This  hoard 
was  visited  last  year  by  a  party  from  Fort  Macpher- 
Bon,  Peel's  River,  when  all  was  safe. 

"  Eight  bags  of  pemmican,  weighing  90  lbs.  each, 
were  deposited  at  Fort  Good  Hope  in  1848,  and  would 
remain  there  last  summer  for  the  use  of  any  boat 
parties  that  might  ascend  the  river  in  1849 ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  part,  or  the  whole,  may  have  been  used 
by  the  Company  by  next  year. 

"A  boat  party  should  be  furnished  with  a  small 
seine  and  a  short  herring  net,  by  the  use  of  which  a 
good  supply  of  fish  may  often  be  procured  in  the 
eddies  or  sandy  bays  of  the  Mackenzie.  They  should 
also  be  provided  with  a  good  supply  of  buck-shot,  swan- 
shot,  duck-shot,  and  gunpowder.  The  Loucheux  and 
Hare  Indians  will  readily  give  such  provisions  as  they 
may  happen  to  have,  in  exchange  for  ammunition. 
They  will  expect  to  receive  tobacco  gratuitously,  as 
they  are  accustomed  to  do  from  the  traders. 

"The  Mackenzie  is  the  only  water-way  by  which 
any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  can  be 
reached  from  the  Arctic  Sea.  There  is  a  post  on  the 
Peel  River  which  enters  the  delta  of  the  Mackenzie, 
but  no  supplies  can  be  procured  there.  To  the  east- 
ward of  the  Mackenzie  no  ship-party  would  have  a 
chance  of  reaching  a  trading  post,  the  nearest  to  the 
sea  being  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  situ- 
ated on  the  61st  parallel  of  latitude,  and  the  interven- 
ing hilly  country,  intersected  by  numerous  lakes  and 
rapid  rivers,  could  not  be  crossed  by  such  a  party  ir 
less  than  an  entire  summer,  even  could  they  depeny 
on  their  guns  for  a  supply  of  food.  Neither  would 
be  advisable  for  a  party  from  the  ships  to  attempt  to 
reach  the  posts  on  the  Mackenzie  by  way  of  the  Cop- 


^' 


240 


rROGEKSS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


permine  Eiver  and  Fort  Confidence;  as,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  means  of  transport  across  Great  Bear  Lake, 
the  journey  round  that  irregular  sheet  of  water,  would 
be  long  and  hazardous.  Sear  Lake  River  is  more 
than  fifty  miles  long,  and  Fort  Norman,  the  nearest 
post  on  the  Mackenzie,  is  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth. 
Mr.  Rae  was  ingtructed  to  engage  an  Indian  family  or 
two  to  hunt  on  the  tract  of  country  between  the  Cop- 

E ermine  and  Great  Bear  Lake  in  the  summer  of  1850 ; 
ut  no  great  reliance  can  be  placed  on  these  Indians 
remaining  long  there,  as  they  desert  their  hunting 
quarters  on  very  slight  alarms,  being  in  continual 
dread  t>f  enemies,  real  or  imaginary. 

"  A  case  of  pemmican  was  buried  on  the  summit  ot 
the  bank,  about  four  or  five  miles  from  the  summit  of 
Cape  Bathurst,  the  spot  being  marked  by  a  pole  planted 
in  the  earth,  and  the  exact  locality  of  the  deposit  by  a  firo 
of  drift-wood,  much  of  which  would  remain  unconsumed. 

"  Another  case  was  deposited  in  the  cleft  of  a  rock, 
on  a  small  battlemented  clifi^,  which  forms  the  extreme 
part  of  Cape  Parry.  The  case  was  covered  with  loose 
stones ;  and  a  pile  of  stones  painted  red  and  white, 
was  erected  immediately  in  front  of  it.  This  clifi"  re- 
sembles a  cocked-hat  in  some  points  of  view,  and  pro- 
jects like  a  tongue  from  the  base  of  a  rounded  hill, 
which  is  500  or  600  feet  hi^h. 

'  "  Several  cases  of  pemmican  were  left  exposed  on  a 
ledge  of  rocks  in  latitude  68°  35'  N.,  opposite  Lambert 
Island,  in  Dolphin  and  Union  Strait,  and  in  a  bay  to 
the  westward  of  Cape  Krusenstern,  a  small  boat  and 
ten  pieces  of  pemmican  were  deposited  under  a  high 
cliff,  above  high  water  mark,  without  concealment. 
The  Esquimaux  on  this  part  of  the  coast  are  not  nu- 
merous, and  from  the  position  of  this  hoard,  it  may 
escape  discovery  by  them  ;  but  I  have  every  reason  to 
believe  that  the  locality  has  been  visited  by  Mr.  Rae  in 
the  past  summer.  A  deposit  of  larger  size,  near  Cape 
Kendall,  has  been  more  certainly  visited  by  Mr.  Rae." 

Captain  Sir  J.  0.  Ross  writes  from  Haslar,  11th  of 
February,  1860. 


OPINIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


241 


nu- 


ein 


of 


"  With  respect  to  the  probable  position  of  the  Erebus 
and  Terror,  I  consider  that  it  is  hardly  possible  they 
can  be  anywhere  to  the  eastward  of  Metville  Island| 
or  within  300  miles  of  Leopold  Island,  for  if  that  were 
the  case,  they  would  assuredly,  during  the  last  spring, 
have  made  their  way  to  that  point,  with  the  hope  of 
receiving  assistance  from  the  whale-ships  which,  for 
several  years  previous  to  the  departure  of  that  expedi- 
tion from  England,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  in  pursuit  of  whales  ;  and  in  that 
case  they  must  have  been  met  with,  or  marks  of  their 
encampments  have  been  found  by  some  of  the  numer- 
ous parties  detached  from  the  Enterprise  and  Investi- 
gator along  the  shores  of  that  vicinity  during  the  only 
period  of  the  season  in  which  traveling  is  practicable 
in  those  regions. 

"It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  during  their  first 
summer,  vrhich  was  remarkably  favorable  for  the  navi- 
gation of  those  seas,  they  have  been  enabled  (in  obedi- 
ence to  their  orders)  to  push  the  ships  to  the  westward 
of  Banks'  land,  and  have  there  become  involved  in  the 
heavy  pack  of  ice  which  was  observed  from  Melville 
Island  always  to  be  setting  past  its  westernmost  point 
in  a  southeast  direction,  and  from  which  pack  they  may 
not  have  been  able  to  extricate  their  ships. 

"  From  such  a  position,  retreat  to  the  eastward  would 
be  next  to  impossible,  while  the  journey  to  the  Mac- 
kenzie River,  of  comparatively  easy  accomplishment, 
together  with  Sir  John  Franklin's  knowledge  of  the 
resources  in  the  way  and  of  its  practicability,  would 
strengthen  the  belief  that  this  measure  will  have  been 
adopted  by  them  during  the  last  spring. 

"if  this  be  assumed  as  the  present  position  of  the 
Erebus  and  Terror,  it  would  manifestly  be  far  more 
easy  and  safe  to  afford  them  relief  by  means  of  an  ex- 
pedition entering  Behring's  Straits,  than  from  any  other 
direction,  as  it  would  not  be  necessary  for  the  ships  to 
depart  so  far  from  the  coast  of  North  America  as  to 
preclude  their  keeping  up  a  regular  communication 
with  the  Russian  settlements  on  the  River  Oolville,  or 


:  K 


^ft- 


i 


i 


i 


t 


ff 


242 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVIJSV. 


those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie,  while  the  whole  space  between  any 

Eosition  in  which  the  ships  might  winter,  and  Banks' 
and  could  be  thoroughly  examined  by  traveling  par- 
ties early  in  the  spring,  or  by  boats  or  steam  launches 
at  a  more  advanced  period  of  the  following  season." 

Mr.  W.  Snow,  in  a  letter  from  New  York,  dated  7th 
of  January,  1850,  suggests  a  plan  for  a  well  organized 
expedition  of  as  many  men  as  could  be  fitted  out  from 
private  funds.  "  For  instance,  let  a  party  of  100  picked 
men,  well  disciplined  and  officered,  as  on  board  a  ship, 
and  accompanied  with  all  the  necessary  food,  scientinc 
instruments,  and  every  thing  useftd  on  such  expeditions, 
proceed  immediately,  by  the  shortest  and  most  avail- 
able routes,  to  the  lands  in  tho  neighborhood  of  the  un- 
explored regions.  If  possible,  I  would  suggest  that 
they  should  proceed  first  to  Moose  Fort,  on  the  south 
iern  part  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  thence  by  small  craft 
to  Chesterfield  Inlet,  or  otherwise  by  land  reach  that 
quarter,  so  as  to  arrive  there  at  the  opening  of  summer. 
From  this  neighborhood  let  the  partv,  minus  ten  men, 
be  divided  into  three  separate  detachments,  each  with 
specific  instructions  to  extend  their  researches  in  a 
northerly  and  northwesterly  direction.  The  wfjatern- 
most  party  to  proceed  as  near  as  possible  in  a  direct 
course  to  the  easternmost  limits  of  discovery  yet  made 
from  Behring's  Straits,  and  on  no  account  to  deviate 
from  that  course  on  the  western  side  of  it,  but,  if  ne- 
cessary, to  the  eastward.  Let  the  central  party  shape  a 
course  as  near  as  possible  to  the  position  of  the  Mag- 
netic Pole ;  and  the  easternmost  division  direct  to 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  or  the  westernmost  point  of  dis- 
covery from  the  east,  and  not  to  deviate  from  that  courso 
easterly.  Let  each  of  these  detachments  be  formed 
again  into  three  divisions,  each  division  thus  consisting 
of  ten  men.  Let  the  first  division  of  each  detachmeni 
pioneer  the  way,  followed  on  the  same  track  by  thb 
second  and  the  third,  at  stated  intervals  of  time.  Oa 
the  route,  let  the  pioneers,  at  every  spot  necessary,  leave? 
distinguishing  marks  to  denote  the  way,  and  also  to 


^■^i 


i. 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


248 


five  information  to  either  of  the  other  two  principal 
etachments  as  may  by  chance  fall  into  their  track 
To  second  the  efforts  of  the  three  detachments,  let  con 
stant  succors  and  other  assistance  be  forwarded  by 
way  of  Moose  Fort,  and  through  the  ten  men  left  at 
Cliesterfield  Inlet ;  and  should  the  object  for  which 
such  an  expedition  was  Ti  -  \ed  be  happily  accom- 
plished by  the  return  of  th<5  lost  voyagers,  let  messen- 
gers be  forwarded  with  the  news,  as  was  done  with 
Captain  Back,  in  the  case  of  Captain  Ross.  Let  each 
of  the  exti'eme  detachments,  upon  arriving  at  their  re- 
spective destinations,  and  upon  being  joined  by  the 
wliole  of  their  body,  proceed  to  form  plans  for  uniting 
with  the  central  party,  and  ascertaining  the  results 
already  obtained  by  each  by  sending  parties  in  that 
direction.  Also,  let  a  chosen  number  be  sent  out  from 
each  detachment  as  exploring  parties,  wherever  deemed 
requisite ;  and  let  no  effort  be  wanted  to  make  a  search 
in  every  direction  where  there  is  a  possibility  of  its 
proving  successful. 

"  If  a  public  and  more  extensive  expedition  be  set  on 
foot,  I  would  most  respectfully  draw  attention  to  the 
following  suggestions: — Let  a  land  expedition  be  formed 
upon  a  similar  plan,  and  with  the  same  number  of  men, 
say  300  or  more,  as  those  fitted  out  for  sea.  Let  this 
expedition  be  formed  into  three  great  divisions ;  the  one 
proceeding  by  the  Athabasca  to  the  Great  Slave  Lake, 
and  following  out  Captain  Back's  discoveries ;  the 
second,  through  the  Churchill  district ;  or,  with  the 
third,  according  to  the  plan  laid  out  for  a  private  expe- 
dition alone ;  only  keeping  the  whole  of  their  forces  as 
much  as  possible  bearing  upon  the  points  where  success 
may  be  most  likely  attamalble. 

"  Each  of  these  three  great  divisions  to  be  subdivided 
and  arranged  also  as  in  the  former  case.  The  expense 
of  an  expedition  of  this  kind,  with  all  the  necessary 
outlay  for  provisions,  &c.,  I  do  not  think  would  be  more 
than  half  what  the  same  would  cost  if  sent  by  sea ;  but 
of  this  I  am  not  a  competent  judge,  having  no  definite 
means  to  make  a  comparison.    But  there  is  yet  another, 


,1' 


■1' 
i 

I 


y 


244 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIO    Dl^OOVKRY. 


and,  I  cannot  help  conceiving,  a  more  easy  way  of  ob- 
viating all  difficulty  on  this  point,  and  of  reducing  the 
expense  considerably. 

"  It  must  be  evident  that  the  present  position  of  the 
arctic  voyagers  is  iwu(  very  accessible,  either  by  land 
or  sea,  else  the  distinguished  leader  at  the  head  of  the 
expedition  would  long  ere  this  have  tracked  a  route 
whereby  the  whole  party,  or  at  least  some  of  them 
could  return. 

"In  such  a  case,  therefore,  the  only  way  to  reach 
them  is  by,  if  I  may  use  the  expression, /brc^/l^  an  ex- 
pedition on  toward  them  ;  I  mean,  by  keeping  it  con- 
stantly upheld  and  pushing  onward.  There  may  be, 
and  indeed  there  are,  very  great  difficulties,  and  diffi- 
culties of  such  a  nature  that,  I  believe,  they  would 
themselves  cause  another  great  difficulty  in  the  procur- 
ing of  men.  But,  if  I  might  make  another  bold  sug- 
festion,  I  would  respectfiSly  ask  our  government  at 
ome,  why  not  employ  picked  men  from  convicted 
criminals,  as  is  done^  in  exploring  expeditions  in  Aus- 
tralia ?  Inducements  might  be  held  out  to  them  ;  and 
by  proper  care  they  would  be  made  most  serviceable 
auxiliaries.  Generally  speaking,  men  convicted  of 
offenses  are  men  possessed  of  almost  inexhaustible 
mental  resources ;  and  such  men  are  the  men  who, 
with  physical  powers  of  endurance,  are  precisely  those 
required.  But  this  I  speak  of,  merely,  if  sufficient  free 
men  could  not  be  found,  and  if  economy  is  studied." 

Mr.  John  McLean,  who  has  been  twenty-five  years  a 
partner  and  officer  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and 
has  published  an  interesting  narrative  of  his  adven- 
tures and  experience,  writing  to  Lady  Franklin  from 
Canada  "West,  in  January,  1850,  suggests  the  following 
very  excellent  plan  as  likely  to  produce  some  intelli- 
gence, if  not  to  lead  to  a  discovery  of  the  party. 

"  Let  a  small  schooner  of  some  thirty  or  forty  tons 
burden,  built  with  a  view  to  draw  as  little  water  as 
possible,  and  as  strong  as  wood  and  iron  could  make 
her,  be  dispatched  from  England  in  company  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  ships.    This  vessel  would,  immediately 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


245 


on  arriving  at  York  Factory,  proceed  to  the  Strait 
termed  Sir  Thomas  Eoe's  Welcome,  wliich  divides 
Southampton  Island  from  the  main-land  ;  then  direct 
her  course  to  Wager  River,  and  proceed  onward  until 
interrupted  by  insurmountable  oostacles.  The  party 
being  safely  landed,  I  would  recommend  their  remain- 
ing stationary  until  winter  traveling  became  practicable, 
when  they  should  set  out  for  the  shores  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which,  by  a  reference  to  Arrowsmith's  map,  ap- 
pears to  be  only  some  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant ; 
then  dividing  in  two  parties  or  divisions,  the  one  would 
proceed  east,  the  other  west ;  and  I  think  means  could 
be  devised  of  exploring  250  or  300  miles  in  either 
direction ;  and  here  a  very  important  question  pre- 
sents itself, —  how  and  by  what  means  is  this  enterprise 
to  be  accomplished  ? 

"  In  the  first  place,  the  services  of  Esquimaux  would 
be  indispensable,  for  the  twofold  reason,  that  no  reliable 
information  can  be  obtained  from  the  natives  without 
their  aid,  and  that  they  alone  properly  understand  the 
art  of  preparing  snow-houses,  or  '  igloes,'  for  winter  en- 
campment, the  only  lodging  which  the  desolate  wastes 
of  the  arctic  regions  afford.  Esquimaux  understanding 
the  English  language  sufficiently  well  to  answer  our 
purpose,  frequent  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post 
in  Labrador,  some  of  whom  might  be  induced,  (I  should 
fain  hope,)  to  engage  for  the  expedition  ,  or  probably 
the  '  half-breed  '  natives  might  do  so  more  readily  than 
the  aborigines.  They  should,  if  possible,  be  strong, 
active  men,  and  good  marksmen,  and  not  less  than  four 
in  number.  Failing  in  the  attempt  to  procure  the  na- 
tives of  Labrador,  theti  I  should  think  Esquimaux 
might  be  obtained  at  Churchill,  in  Hudson's  Bay  ;  the 
two  who  accompanied  Sir  John  in  his  first  land  expedi- 
tion were  from  this  quarter." 

An  expedition  of  this  kind  is  to  be  sent  out  by  Lady 
Franklin  this  spring  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Kennedy. 
There  are  various  ways  of  accomplishing  this  object, 
the  choice  of  which  must  mainly  depend  on  the  views 
and  wishes  of  the  officer  who  may  undertake  the  com- 


f 


''it 


i 


* 


t 


mi 
m 


h 


m 


v.i 


240 


rUOOBESB  OF  AUCnc  DISCX)VERV. 


mand.  Besides  the  northern  route,  or  that  by  Recent 
Inlet,  it  is  possible  to  reach  Sir  James  Eoss  and  Simp- 
son's Straits  from  the  south,  entering  Hudson's  Ba^, 
and  passing  up  the  Welcome  to  Rae  Isthmus,  or  agam 
by  entering  Chesterfield  or  Wager  Inlet,  and  gaining 
the  coast  by  Back's  or  the  Great  Fish  Eiver. 

By  either  of  these  routes  a  great  part  of  the  explora- 
tion must  be  made  in  boats  or  on  foot.  In  every  case 
the  main  points  to  be  Bearched  are  James  Eoss's  Strait 
and  Simpson's  Strait,  if  indeed  there  be  a  passage  in 
that  direction,  as  laid  down  in  Sir  John  Franklm's  charts, 
though  contradicted  by  Mr.  Eae,  and  considered  still 
doubtful  by  some  arctic  navigators. 

.  The  following  extract  from  the  Geograpliical  Jour- 
nal shows  the  opinion  of  Franklin  upon  the  search  of 
tills  quarter.  Dr.  Eichardson  says,* — "  No  better  plan 
can  be  proposed  than  the  one  suggested  by  Sir  John 
Franklin,  oi  sending  a  vessel  to  Wager  Eiver,  and  car- 
rying on  the  survey  from  thence  in  boats." 

Sir  John  Franklin  observes^f — "  The  Doctor  alludes 
in  his  letter  to  some  propositions  which  he  knew  I  had 
made  in  the  vear  1828,  at  the  command  of  his  present 
Majesty,  yWilliam  IV.,)  on  the  same  subject,  and  partic- 
ulariy  to  th<5  suggestion  as  to  proceeding  from  Eepulse 
or  Wager  Bay.  *  *  *  A  recent  careful  reading  of  all 
the  narratives  connected  with  the  surveys  of  the  Wager 
and  Eepulse  Bays,  and  of  Sir  Edward  ±*arry's  Voyage, 
together  with  the  information  obtained  from  the  Esqui- 
maux by  Sir  Edward  Parry,  Sir  John  Eoss,  and  Cap- 
tain Back^  confirm  me  in  opinion  that  a  successful  de- 
lineation of  the  coast  ea^t  of  Point  Turnagain  to  the 
Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla,  would  be  best  attained 
by  an  expedition  proceeding  from  Wager  Bay,  the 
northern  parts  of  which  cannot,  I  think,  be  farther  dis- 
tant than  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  if  the  information 
received  by  the  above-mentioned  officers  can  be  de- 
pended on." 

Dr.  McGormick  particularly  draws  attention  to  Jones' 
and  Smith's  Sounas,  recommending  a  careM  exainin 

•  Journal  of  Geographical  Society,  vol  vi,  p,  40.         t  Ibid.  p.  43, 


L.Utlii "I  itiTA  -i  .  ^ 


1 '"  .  ll 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


247 


ation  of  tliese  to  their   probable  termination  in  tlio 
Polar  Sea : — 

"  Jones'  Sound,  with  the  "Wellington  Channel  on  the 
west,  may  be  found  to  form  an  island  of  the  land  called 
*  North  Devon.'  All  prominent  positions  on  both  sides 
of  these  Sounds  should  be  searched  for  flag  stavca  iind 
piles  of  stones,  under  whcih  copper  cylinders  or  but- 
tles may  have  been  deposited,  containing  accounts  of 
the  proceedings  of  the  missing  expedition  ;  and  if  suc- 
cessful in  getting  upon  its  track,  a  clue  would  be  ob- 
tained to  the  fate  ot  our  gallant  countrymen." 

The  Wellington  Channel  he  considers  affords  one  of 
the  best  chances  of  crossing  the  track  of  the  missing 
expedition. 

To  carry  out  this  plan  eflSciently,  he  recommended 
that  a  boat  should  be  dropped,  by  the  ship  conveying 
the  searching  party  out,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Welling- 
ton Channel  in  Barrow's  Strait ;  from  this  point  one  or 
both  sides  of  that  channel  and  the  northern  shores  of 
the  Parry  Islands  might  be  explored  as  far  west  as  the 
season  would  permit  of.  But  should  the  ship  be  en- 
abled to  look  into  Jones'  Sound,  on  her  way  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound,  and  find  that  opening  free  from  ice,  an 
attempt  might  be  made  by  the  Boat  Expedition  to  push 
through  it  mto  the  Wellington  Channel.  In  the  event, 
however,  of  its  proving  to  be  merely  an  inlet,  which  a 
short  delay  would  be  sufficient  to  decide,  the  ship  miglit 
perhaps  be  in  readiness  to  pick  up  the  boat  on  its  re- 
turn, for  conveyance  to  its  ultimate  destination  through 
Lancaster  Sound  ;  or  as  a  precaution  against  any  un- 
foreseen separation  from  the  ship,  a  depot  of  provinions 
should  be  left  at  the  entrance  to  Jones'  Sound  for  the 
boat  to  complete  its  supplies  from,  after  accomplisliing 
the  exploration  of  this  inlet,  and  to  afford  the  means, 
if  compelled  from  an  advanced  period  of  the  season 
or  other  adverse  circumstances,  of  reaching  some  place 
of  refuge,  either  on  board  a  whaler  or  some  one  of  the 
depots  of  provisions  on  the  southern  shores  of  Barrow's 
Strait. 


1' 


IV 


248 


I'KOORESS  OF  ARCTIC  DI8C0VEUY. 


I 


Mr.  Penny,  in  charge  of  tlie  Lady  Franklin,  before 
<ailin»  observed  : — 

"  It  an  early  passage  bo  obtained,  I  would  examine 
Tones'  Sound,  as  I  have  generally  found  in  all  my  early 
voyages  clear  water  at  the  mouth  of  that  sound,  and 
tJiere  is  a  probability  that  an  earlier  passage  by  tins 
route  might  befouna  into  Wellington  Strait,  which  out- 
let ought  by  all  means  to  bo  thoroughly  examined  at 
the  earliest  opportunity,  since,  if  Sir  J.  Franklin  had 
taken  tliat  route,  with  the  hope  of  finding  a  paesaffo 
"\vo8tward,  to  the  north  of  tne  Parry  and  Mclvillo 
Islands,  ho  may  be  beyond  the  power  of  helping  him- 
self. No  trace  of  the  expedition,  or  practical  commu- 
nication with  Wellington  Strait,  being  obtained  in  this 
quarter,  I  would  proceed  in  time  to  take  advantage  of 
tlio  first  opening  of  the  ice  in  Lancaster  Sound,  with 
the  view  of  proceeding  to  the  west  and  entering  Wel- 
lington Strait,  or,  if  this  should  not  be  practicable,  of 
proceeding  farther  westward  to  Cape  Walker,  and  be- 
yond, on  one  or  other  of  which  places  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin will  probably  have  left  some  notices  of  his  course." 

The  government  has  seen  the  urgent  necessity  of 
causing  the  Wellington  Channel  to  be  carefully  exam- 
ined ;  imperative  orders  were  sent  to  Sir  James  Ross 
to  search  it,  but  he  was  drifted  out  of  Barrow's  Strait 
against  his* will,  before  be  received  those  orders  by  the 
North  Star. 

I  have  already  stated  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  in- 
structions directed  him  to  try  the  first  favorable  open- 
ing to  the  southwest  after  passing  Cape  Walker ;  and 
failing  in  that,  to  try  the  Wellington  Channel.  Every 
officer  in  the  British  Service,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
follows  his  instructions,  as  far  as  they  are  compatible 
with  the  exigencies  of  the  case,  be  it  what  it  may,  nor 
ever  deviates  from  them  without  good  and  justifiable 
cause.  If,  then.  Sir  John  Franklin  failed  in  finding  an 
opening  to  the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker  it  is  reason- 
able to  suppose  he  obeyed  his  instructions,  and  tried 
the  Wellington  Channel.  The  second  probability  in 
favor  of  this  locality  is,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  ex- 


vlTNlONS   AND  8UG0K8T1ON9. 


249 


pressed  o  many  of  his  friends  a  favorable  opinion  of 
the  Wellington  Chunnel,  and,  which  is  of  far  more 
consequence,  intimated  his  opinion  ofHcially,  and  be- 
fore the  expedition  was  determined  upon,  that  this 
strait  seemed  to  offer  tlie  best  chance  of  success. 

Moreover,  Capt.  Fitzjamcs,  his  immediate  second  in 
command  in  the  Erebus,  was  strongly  in  favor  of  the 
Wellington  Channel,  and  alwavs  so  expressed  himself. 
See  his  letter,  before  quoted,  to  Sir  John  Harrow,  p.  203. 

Who  can  doubt  that  t-  e  opinion  of  Cant.  Fitzjames, 
a  man  of  superior  mind,  l)elo ved  by  all  wno  knew  him, 
and  in  the  service  "the  observe  d  of  .i!l  observers,"  would 
have  great  weight  with  Su*  Johi?  Frank'm,  e  en  if  Sir 
John  had  not  been  himself  predisposed  <  •  listen  to  him. 
What  adds  confirmation  to  thtae  view  .  i^,  that  in  1840, 
a  few  years  prior  to  the  starting  of  the  expedi*  )n.  Col. 
Sabine  published  the  deeply  inccie^vlng  "rfanutivc  of 
Baron  Wrangel's  Expedition  to  the  Polar  Sea,  under- 
taken between  the  years  1820  and  1823,"  and  iuhis  pro 
face  the  translator  points  to  the  Wellington  ChaDncI  as 
the  most  likely  course  for  the  successful  accomplishment 
of  the  northwest  passage.  "S  itting  aside,"  he  says, 
"  the  possibility  ot  the  existence  of  unknown  land,  the 
probability  of  an  open  sea  existing  to  the  north  of  the 
rarry  islands,  and  communicating  with  Behring  Strait, 
appears  to  rest  -on  strict  analogical  reasoning."  And 
again  he  adds,  **  all  the  attempts  to  effect  the  northwest 
passage,  since  JBarrov.' \>i  t>trait  was  first  passed  in  1819, 
liave  consisted  in  an  endeavor  to  force  a  vessel  by  one 
route  or  another  throiigh  this  land-locked  and  ice-encum- 
bered portion  of  the  Polar  Ocean." 

Ko  exarainat!^oii  has  made  kuown  what  may  bo  the 
state  of  the  sea  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  Islands; 
whether'  wmilar  impediments  may  there  present  them- 
selves to  navigation,  or  whether  a  sea  may  not  there 
exist  offering  no  difficulties  whatever  of  the  Kind,  as  M. 
Von  Wrangel  has  shown  to  be  the  case  to  the  north  of 
the  Siberian  Islands,  and  as  by  strict  analogy  we  should 
be  justified  in  expecting. 

Colonel  Sabine  is  an  officer  of  gi*eat  scientific  expe- 


I 


^t 


r*. 


if: 


250 


PBOORESB   OB'   AKCTIC   DISCOVEKT. 


rience,  and  from  liis  having  made  several  polar  voya^jcs, 
he  has  devoted  great  attention  to  all  that  relates  to  tnat 
quarter.  He  was  in  constant  communication  with  Sir 
John  Franklin  when  the  expedition  was  fitting  out,  and 
it  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  he  would  be  some- 
what guided  bv  his  opinion. 

We  have,  then,  the  opinions  of  Franklin  himself. 
Colonel  Sabine,  and  Captain  Fitzjames,  all  bearing  on 
this  point,  and  wo  must  remember  that  Parry,  who  dis- 
covered and  named  this  channel,  saw  nothing  when 
passing  and  re-passing  it,  but  a  clear  open  sea  to  the 
northward. 

Lieut.  S.  Osborn,  in  a  paper  dated  the  4:th  of  January, 
1850,  makes  the  following  suggestions  : — 

"General  opinion  places  the  lost  expedition  to  the 
west  of  Cape  Walker,  and  south  of  the  latitude  of  Mel- 
ville Island.  The  distance  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  Banks' 
Land  is  only  301  miles,  and  on  reference  to  a  chart  it 
will  be  seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  conti- 
nent approach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Frank- 
lin's expedition. 

"  Banks'  Land  bears  fi'om  Cape  Bathurst  N.  41°  49', 
E.  302  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in  the 
summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  be  trav- 
ersed in  boats. 

"  Dr.  Richardson  confirms  previous  reports  of  the  ice 
being  light  on  the  coast  east  of  the  Mackenzie  River  to 
Cape  Bathurst,  and  informs  us  that  the  Esquimaux  had 
seen  '  no  ice  to  seaward  for  two  moons.' 

'*  Every  mile  traversed  northward  by  a  party  from 
Cape  Bathurst  would  be  over  that  unknown  space  in 
which  traces  of  Franklin  may  be  expected.  It  is  advis- 
able that  such  a  second  party  be  dispatched  from  Cape 
Bathurst,  in  order  that  the  prosecution  of  Dr.  Rae's 
examination  of  the  supposed  channel  between  Wollas- 
ton  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no  way  be  interfered 
with,  by  his  attention  being  called  to  the  westward." 

In  March,  1848,  the  Admiralty  announced  their  inten- 
tion of  rewarding  the  crews  of  any  whaling  ships  that 
brought  accurate  information  of  the  missing  expedition, 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


2 


i>l 


with  the  sum  of  100  guineas  or  more,  according  to  cir- ' 
cumstances.  Lady  Irankiin  also  about  the  same  time 
offered  rewards  of  2000^.  and  3000^.,  to  be  distributed 
among  the  owner,  officers,  and  crew  discovering  and 
affording  relief  to  her  husband,  or  making  extraordi- 
nary exertions  for  the  above  object,  and,  if  required, 
bringing  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  to  England. 

In  March,  1850,  the  following  further  rewards  were 
offered  by  the  British  government  to  persons  of  any 
country : — 

Ist.  To  any  party  or  person  who  in  the  judgment  of 
the  Board  of  Admiralty,  shall  discover  and  eSectually 
relieve  the  crews  of  II.  M.  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  the 
sum  of  20,000^.,  or, 

2d.  To  any  party  or  parties,  &c.,  who  shall  discover 
and  effectually  relieve  any  portion  of  the  crews,  or  shall 
convey  such  intelligence  as  shall  lead  to  the  relief  of 
any  of  the  crew,  the  sum- of  10,000Z. 

3d.  To  any  party  or  parties  who  shall  by  virtue  of 
his  or  their  efforts,  first  succeed  in  ascertaining  their 
fate,  10,000Z. 

In  a  dispatch  from  Sir  George  Simpson  to  Mr.  Kae, 
dated  Lachine,  the  21st  of  January,  1850,  he  says : — 

"If  they  be  still  alive,  I  feel  satisfied  that  every  effort 
it  may  be  in  the  power  of  man  to  make  to  succor  them 
will  be  exerted  by  yourself  and  the  Company's  officers 
in  Mackenzie  River ;  but  should  your  late  search  have 
unfortunately  ended  in  disappointment,  it  is  the  desire 
of  the  Company  that  ^ou  renew  your  explorations  next 
summer,  if  possible. 

"  By  the  anftexed  correspondence  you  will  observe  that 
the  opinion  in  England  appears  to  be  that  our  explora- 
tions ought  to  be  more  particularly  directed  to  that  por- 
tion of  the  Northern  Sea  lying  between  Cape  Walker 
on  the  east,  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land  to  the 
north,  and  the  continental  shore  or  the  Victoria  Islands 
to  the  south. 

"  As  these  limits  are  believed  to  embrace  the  course 
that  would  have  been  pursued  by  Sir  John  Franklin, 
Cape  Walker  being  one  of  the  points  he  was  particu- 


! 
i 


I* 


■>■* 


\i 


252 


PKOORESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


larly  instructed  to  make  for,  you  will  therefore  be 
pleased,  immediately  on  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  to  lit 
out  another  exploring  party,  to  proceed  in  the  direction 
above  indicated,  but  varying  the  route  that  may  have 
been  followed  last  summer,  which  party,  besides  their 
own  examination  of  the  coast  and  islands,  should  be 
instructed  to  ofter  liberal  rewards  to  the  Esquimaux  to 
search  for  some  vestiges  of  the  missing  expedition,  and 
similar  rewards  should  be  offered  to  the  Indians  inhab 
iting  near  the  coast  and  Peel's  River,  and  the  hali-bred 
,  hunters  of  Mackenzie  River,  the  latter  being,  perhaps, 
more  energetic  than  the  former ;  assuring  them  that 
whoever  may  procure  authentic  intelligence  will  be 
largely  rewarded. 

"  Simultaneously  with  the  expedition  to  proceed  to- 
ward Cape  Walker,  one  or  two  small  parties  should  bo 
dispatched  to  the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  in  the 
direction  of  Point  Barrow,  one  of  which  might  pass  over 
to  the  Youcon  River,  and  descending  that  stream  to  the 
sea,  carry  on  their  explorations  in  that  quarter,  while 
the  other,  going  down  the  Mackenzie,  might  trace  the 
coast  thence  toward  the  Youcon.  And  these  parties 
must  also  be  instructed  to  offer  rewards  to  the  natives 
to  prosecute  the  search  in  all  directions. 

**  By  these  means  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  course  of  one  year  so  minute  a  search  may  be  made 
of  the  coast  and  the  islands,  that  in  the  event  of  the 
expedition  having  passed  in  that  direction,  some  trace 
of  their  progress  would  certainly  be  discovered. 

"  From  your  experience  in  arctic  discovery,  and  pe- 
cul'ar  qualifications  for  such  an  undertaking,  I  am  in 
hopes  you  may  be  enabled  yourself  to  assume  the 
command  of  the  party  to  proceed  to  the  northward ; 
and,  as  leaders  of  the  two  parties  to  explore  the  coast 
to  the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  you  will  have  to 
select  such  officers  of  the  Company's  service  within 
the  district  as  ma^  appear  best  qualified  for  the  duty : 
Mr.  Murray,  I  think,  would  be  a  very  fit  man  for  one 
of  the  leaders,  and  if  one  party  b©  sent  by  way  of  the 
Youcon,  he  might  take  charge  of  it.    In  the  event  of 


OPINIONS    AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


253 


your  going  on  this  expedition,  you  will  be  pleased  to 
make  over  the  charge  of  the  district  to  Chief  Trader 
Bell  during  your  absence. 

"In  case  you  may  be  short-handed,  I  have  by  this 
conveyance  instructed  Chief  Factor  Ballenden  to  en- 
gage in  Red  River  ten  choice  men,  accustomed  to  boat- 
ing, and  well  fitted  for  such  a  duty  as  will  be  required 
of  them ;  and  if  there  be  a  chance  of  their  reaching 
Mackenzie  River,  or  even  Athabasca,  before  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice,  to  forward  them  immediately. 

"  Should  the  season,  however,  be  too  far  advanced 
to  enable  them  to  accomplish  the  journey  by  winter 
traveling,  Mr.  Ballenden  is  directed  to  increase  the 
party  to  fourteen  men,  with  a  guide  to  be  dispatched 
from  Red  River  immediately  after  the  opening  of  the 
navigation,  in  two  boats,  laden  with  provisions  and 
flour,  and  a  few  bales  of  clothing,  in  order  to  meet,  in 
some  degree,  the  heavy  drain  that  will  be  occasioned 
on  our  resources  in  provisions  and  necessary  supplies 
in  Mackenzie  River.  The  leader  of  this  party  from 
Red  River  may,  perhaps,  be  qualified  to  act  as  the 
conductor  of  one  of  the  parties  to  examine  the  coast 
to  the  westward." 

On  the  5th  of  February,  1850,  another  consultation 
took  place  at  the  Admiralty  among  those  officers  most 
experienced  in  these  matters,  and  their  opinions  in 
writing  were  solicited.  It  is  important,  therefore,  to 
submit  these  as  fully  as  possible  to  the  consideration 
of  the  reader. 

The  first  is  the  report  of  the  hydrographer  of  the 
Admiralty,  dated  the  29th  of  January,  1850:  — 

"  Memorandum  hy  JRea/r- Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beau- 
fort, K.  a  B, 

"The  Behring's  Strait  expedition  being  at  length 
wiirly  off,  it  appears  to  me  to  be  a  duty  to  submit  to 
their  Lordships  that  no  time  should  now  be  lost  in 
equipping  another  set  of  vessels  to  renew  the  search 
on  the  opposite  side,  through  Baffin's  Bay ;  and  this 
being  the  fifth  year  that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  have 


I 

m 


? 


i 
I 

i 


m 


i 


t.' 


254 


rnooREss  of  arctic  discovery. 


n 


been  absent,  and  probably  reduced  to  only  casual  sup- 
plies of  food  and  fuel,  it  may  be  assumed  that  this 
search  should  be  so  complete  and  effectual  as  to  leave 
unexamined  no  place  in  which,  by  any  of  the  supposi- 
tions that  have  been  put  forward,  it  is  at  all  likely  they 
may  be  found. 

"  Sir  John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders 
M'ith  levity,  and  therefore  his  first  attempt  was  un- 
doubtedly made  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island,  and 
not  to  the  westward.  If  foiled  in  that  attempt,  ho 
naturally  hauled  to  the  southward,  and  using  Banks' 
Land  as  a  barrier  against  the  northern  ice,  he  would 
try  to  make  westing  under  its  lee.  Thirdly,  if  both  of 
these  roads  were  found  closed  against  his  advance,  he 
perhaps  availed  himself  of  one  of  the  four  passages 
between  the  Parry  Islands,  including  the  Wellington 
Channel.  Or,  lastly,  he  may  have  returned  to  Baffin's 
Bay  and  taken  the  inviting  opening  of  Jones'  Sound. 

"  All  those  four  tracks  must  therefore  be  diligently 
examined  before  the  search  can  be  called  complete, 
and  the  only  method  of  rendering  that  examination 
prompt  and  efficient  will  be  through  the  medium  of 
steam ;  while  only  useless  expense  and  reiterated  dis- 
appointment will  attend  the  best  efforts  of  sailing  ves- 
sels, leaving  the  lingering  survivors  of  the  lost  ships^ 
as  well  as  their  relatives  in  England,  in  equal  despair. 
Had  Sir  James  Ross  been  in  a  steam  vessel,  he  would 
not  have  been  surrounded  with  ice  and  swept  out  of 
the  Strait,  but  by  shooting  under  the  protection  of  Leo- 
pold Island,  he  would  have  waited  there  till  that  fatal 
field  had  passed  to  the  eastward,  and  he  then  would 
have  found  a  perfectly  open  sea  np  to  Melville  Island. 

"The  best  application  of  steam  to  ice-going  vesselt 
would  be  Ericson's  screw ;  but  the  screw  or  paddles  of 
any  of  our  moderate-sized  vessels  might  be  made  t( 
elevate  with  facility.  Vessels  so  fitted  would  not  re- 
quire to  be  fortified  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  not 
more  than  common  whalers.  From  the  log-like  quies- 
cence with  which  a  sailing  vessel  must  await  the  crush 
of  two  approaching  floes,  they  must  be  as  strong  aa 


0 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


255 


wood  and  iron  can  make  them ;  but  the  steamer  slips 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  collision,  waits  till  the  shock  is 
past,  and  then  profiting  by  their  mutual  recoil,  darts 
at  once  through  the  transient  opening. 

"Two  such  vessels,  and  each  of  them  attended  by 
two  tenders  laden  with  coals  and  provisions,  would  be 
Buflicient  ior  the  main  lines  of  search.  Every  promi- 
nent point  of  land  where  notices  might  have  been  left, 
would  be  visited,  details  of  their  own  proceedings  would 
be  deposited,  and  each  of  the  tenders  would  bo  left  in 
proper  positions,  as  points  of  rendezvous  on  which  to 
fall  back. 

"Besides  these  two  branches  of  the  expedition,  it 
would  be  well  to  allow  the  whaling  captain  (Penny,)  to 
carry  out  his  proposed  undertaking.  His  local  knowl- 
edge, his  thorougn  acquaintance  with  all  the  mysteries 
of  the  ice  navigation,  and  his  well  known  skill  and 
resources,  seem  to  point  him  out  as  a  most  valuable 
auxiliary. 

"  But  whatever  vessels  may  be  chosen  for  this  service, 
I  would  beseech  their  lordsnips  to  expedite  them ;  all 
our  attempts  have  been  deferred  too  long  ;  and  there  is 
now  reason  to  believe  that  very  early  in  the  season,  in 
May  or  even  in  April,  Baffin's  Bay  may  be  crossed  be- 
fore the  accumulated  ice  of  winter  spreads  over  its 
surface.  If  they  arrive  rather  too  soon,  they  may  very 
advantageously  await  the  proper  moment  in  some  of 
the  Greenland  harbors,  preparing  themselves  for  the 
coming  efforts  and  struggles,  and  procuring  Esquimaux 
interpreters. 

"  In  order  to  press  every  resource  into  the  service  of 
this  noble  enterprise,  the  vessels  should  be  extensively 
furnished  with  means  for  blasting  and  splitting  the  ice, 
perhaps  circular  saws  might  be  adapted  to  the  steamers, 
a  launch  to  each  party,  with  a  small  rotary  engine, 
sledges  for  the  shore,  and  light  boats  with  sledge  bear- 
ings for  broken  ice-fields,  balloons  for  the  distribution 
of  advertisements,  and  kites  for  the  explosion  of  lofty 
fire-balls.  And,  lastly,  they  should  have  vigorous  and 
numerous  crews,  so  tnat  when  detachments  are  away, 


I 

m 


1 


'  - 

':! 
ii 


25G 


ntOORESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


otlier  operations  should  not  be  intermitted  for  want  of 
physical  strengtli. 

"  As  the  council  of  the  Ro^al  Society,  some  time  ago, 
thought  proper  to  remind  their  lordships  of  the  propriety 
of  instituting  this  search,  it  would  be  lair  now  to  call  oii 
tiiat  learned  body  for  all  the  advice  and  suggestions, 
that  science  and  philosophy  can  contribute  toward  the 
accomplishment  of  the  great  object  on  which  the  eyes 
of  all  England  and  indeed  of  all  the  world,  are  now 
entirely  hxed." 

Captain  Beechey,  writing  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Ad- 
miralty, 7th  of  February,  1850,  says : — 

"  The  urgent  nature  of  the  case  alone  can  justify  the 
use  of  ordinary  steamers  in  an  icy  sea,  and  great  pru- 
dence and  judgment  will  bo  required  on  the  part  of 
their  commanders,  to  avoid  being  disabled  by  collision 
and  pressure. 

"  1  would  also  add,  as  an  exception,  that  I  think  Leo- 
pold Island  and  Cape  Walker,  if  possible,  should  both 
be  examined,  prior  to  any  attempt  being  made  to  pene- 
trate in  other  directions  from  Barrow's  Strait,  and  that 
the  bottom  of  Regent  Inlet,  about  the  Pelly  Islands, 
should  not  be  left  unexamined.  In  the  memorandum 
submitted  to  their  lordships  on  the  17th  of  January, 
1849,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  importance ;  and 
I  am  still  ot  opinion,  that,  had  Sir  John  Franklin  aban- 
doned his  vessels  near  the  coast  of  America,  and  much 
short  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  he  would  have  preferred 
the  probability  of  retaining  the  use  of  his  boats  until 
he  found  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait,  to  risking  an  over- 
land journey  via  the  before-mentioned  river ;  it  must 
be  remembered,  that  at  the  time  he  sailed.  Sir  George 
Back's  discovery  had  rendered  it  very  probable  that 
Boothia  was  an  island. 

"  An  objection  to  the  necessity  of-  this  search  seems 
to  be,  that  had  Sir  John  Franklin  taken  that  route,  he 
would  have  reached  Fury  Beach  already.  However,  I 
cannot  but  think  there  will  yet  be  found  some  good 
grounds  for  the  Esquimaux  sketch,  and  that  their  mean- 
ing has  been  misunderstood ;  and  as  Mr.  M'Cormick  is 


OPINIONS  OF   ARCTIC   "OTAOERS. 


257 


aut  of 

le  ago, 
jpriety 
call  on 
Bstions, 
ard  the 
lie  eyes 
re  now 

;lie  Ad- 

itify  the 
jat  pni- 
part  of 
jollibiou 

nk  Leo- 
dd  both 
to  pene- 
mci  that 
Islands, 
iranduin 
anuary, 
;o;  and 
lin  aban- 
id  much 
•referred 
tts  until 
Ian  over- 
it  must 
George 
Ible  that 

Ih  seems 
[oute,  he 
ever,  I 

le  good 
hr  mean- 

rmick  is 


an  enterprising  person,  whose  name  has  already  been 
before  their  lorclships,  I  would  submit,  whether  a  boat 
expedition  from  Leopold  Depot,  under  his  direction, 
would  not  satisfactorily  set  at  rest  all  inquiry  upon  this, 
now  the  onljr  quarter  unprovided  for." 

Captain  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  states  : — 

"I  am  decidedly  of  opinion  that  the  main  search 
should  be  renewed  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island 
and  Banks'  Land,  including  as  a  part  of  the  plan  the 
thorough  examination  of  Wellington  Strait  and  of  the 
other  similar  openings  between  the  islands  of  the  group 
bearing  my  name.  I  entertain  a  crowing  conviction  of 
the  probabilitjr  of  the  missing  ships,  or  at  least  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  crews,  being  shut  up  at  Mel 
villo  Island,  Banks'  Land,  or  in  that  neigliborhood, 
agreeing  as  I  do  with  Rear  Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beau- 
fort, in  Ti'3  report  read  yesterday  to  the  Board  that  *  Sir 
John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders  with 
levity,'  which  he  would  be  justly  chargeable  with  doing 
if  he  attached  greater  weight  to  any  notions  he  might 
personally  entertain  than  to  the  Admiralty  instructions, 
M'hich  he  well  knew  to  be  founded  on  the  experience  of 
former  attempts,  and  on  the  best  information  which 
could  then  be  obtained  on  the  subject.  For  these  rea- 
sons I  can  scarcely  doubt  that  he  woidd  emj^loy  at  least 
two  seasons,  those  of  184:5  and  1846,  in  an  unremitting 
attempt  to  penetrate  directly  westward  or  south  westward 
to  Behring's  Strait. 

"  Supposing  this  conjecture  to  be  correct,  nothing  can 
be  more  likely  than  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  ships,  hav- 
ing penetrated  in  seasons  of  ordinary  temperature  a 
considerable  distance  in  that  direction,  have  been  locked 
up  by  successive  seasons  of  extraordinary  rigor,  thus 
baffling  the  efforts  of  their  weakened  crews  to  escape 
from  the  ice  in  either  of  the  two  directions  by  Behring's 
or  Barrow's  Straits. 

"And  here  I  cannot  but  add,  that  my  own  conviction 
of  this  probability — for  it  is  only  with  probabilities 
that  we  have  to  deal — has  been  greatly  strengtlumed 
by  a  letter  I  have  lately  received  from  Col.  Sabine,  of 


•  ij 


*l 


'  1 


.If 


258 


PKOORKSS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


the  Royal  Artillery,  of  which  I  had  the  honor  to  sub- 
mit a  copy  to  Sir  Francis  Baring.  Colonel  Sabine 
having  accompanied  two  successive  expeditions  to  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  including  that  under  mv  command  which 
reached  Melville  Island,  I  consider  his  views  to  be  well 
worthy  of  their  lordships'  attention  on  this  part  of  the 
subject. 

"It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  considerable 
weight  is  due  to  the  conjecture  which  has  been  offered 
by  persons  capable  of  forming  a  sound  judgment,  that 
having  failed,  as  I  did,  in  the  attempt  to  penetrate  west- 
ward. Sir  John  Franklin  might  deem  it  prudent  to  re- 
trace his  steps,  and  was  enabled  to  do  so,  in  order  to  try 
a  more  northern  route,  either  through  Wellington  Strait 
or  some  other  of  those  openings  between  the  Parry 
Islands  to  which  I  have  already  referred.  And  this  idea 
receives  no  small  importance  from  the  fact,  (said  to  be 
beyond  a  doubt,)  of  Sir  John  Franklin  having,  before 
his  departure,  expressed  such  an  intention  in  case  of 
failing  to  the  westward. 

"I  cannot,  therefore,  consider  the  intended  search  to 
be  complete  without  making  the  examination  of  Wel- 
lington Strait  and  its  adjacent  openings  a  distinct  part 
of  the  plan,  to  be  performed  by  one  portion  of  the 
vessels  which  I  shall  presently  propose  for  the  main 
expedition. 

"  Much  stress  has  likewise  been  laid,  and  I  think  not 
altogether  without  reason,  on  the  propriety  of  search- 
ing Jones'  and  Smith's  Sounds  in  the  northwest  parts  of 
Baffin's  Bay.  Considerable  interest  has  lately  been  at- 
tached to  Jones'  Sound,  from  the  fact  of  its  having  been 
recently  navigated  by  at  least  one  enterprising  whaler, 
and  found  to  be  of  great  width,  free  from  ice,  with  a 
swell  from  the  westward,  and  having  no  land  visible  from 
the  mast-head  in  that  direction.  It  seems  more  than 
probable,  therefore,  that  it  may  be  found  to  communi- 
cate with  Wellington  Strait ;  so  that  if  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's ships  have  been  detained  anywhere  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Parry  Islands,  it  would  be  by  Jones'  Sound 
that  he  would  probably  endeavor  to  eflect  his  escape, 


OriNIOKS   AND  SUGQESTIONb. 


259 


rather  than  by  the  less  direct  route  of  Barrow's  Strait. 
I  do  not  nivself  attach  much  importance  to  the  idea  of 
Sir  John  Franklin  having  so  far  retraced  his  steps  as 
to  come  back  through  Lancaster  Sound,  and  recom- 
mence his  enterprise  by  entering  Jones'  Sound  ;  but 
the  possibility  of  his  attempting  his  escape  through 
this  iine  opening,  and  the  report,  (though  somewhat 
vague,)  of  a  cairn  of  stones  seen  by  one  of  the  whalers 
on  a  headland  within  it,  seems  to  me  to  render  it  highly 
expedient  to  set  this  question  at  rest  by  a  search  in 
this  direction,  including  the  examination  of  Smith's 
Sound  also." 

I  beg  to  cite  next  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  Dr.  Sir 
John  liichardson  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty  : — 

'''•Ilaslar  Hospital^  Gosport^^th  of  February  ^  1850. 

"  "With  respect  to  the  direction  in  which  a  successful 
search  may  be  predicated  with  the  most  confidence, 
very  various  opinions  have  been  put  forth ;  some  have 
supposed  either  that  the  ships  were  lost  before  reaching 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  that  Sir  John  Franklin,  finding  an 
impassable  barrier  of  ice  in  the  entrance  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  may  have  sought  for  a  passage  through  Jones' 
Sound.  I  do  not  feel  inclined  to  give  much  weight  to 
cither  conjecture.  When  we  consider  the  strength  of 
the  Erebus  and  Terror,  calculated  to  resist  the  strongest 
pressure  to  which  ships  navigating  BaflBn's  Bav  have 
been  known  to  be  subject,  in  conjunction  with  the  fact 
that,  of  the  many  whalers  which  nave  been  crushed  or 
abandoned  since  the  commencement  of  the  fishery,  the 
crews,  or  at  least  the  greater  part  of  them,  have,  in 
almost  every  case,  succeeded  in  reaching  other  ships,  or 
the  Danish  settlements,  we  cannot  believe  that  the  two 
discovery  ships,  which  were  seen  on  the  edge  of  the 
middle  ice  so  early  as  the  26th  of  July,  can  have  been 
so  suddenly  and  totally  overwhelmea  as  to  preclude 
some  one  of  the  intelligent  oflicers,  whose  minds  were 
prepared  for  every  emergency,  with  their  select  crews 
of  men,  experienced  in  3ie  ice,  from  placing  a  boat  on 
the  ice  or  water,  and  thus  carrying  intelligence  of  tho 


.■J 

4  \ 


2C0 


mOORESS   OF   AIICTIC   DISCOVERY. 


disaster  to  one  of  the  many  whalers  which  remained  for 
two  months  after  that  date  in  those  seas,  and  this  in  tlio 
absence  of  any  unusual  catastrophe  among  the  fishing 
vessels  that  season. 

"  "With  respect  to  Jones'  Sound,  it  is  admitted  by  all 
who  are  intimately  acquainted  with  Sir  John  Franklin, 
that  his  first  endeavor  would  be  to  act  up  to  the  letter 
of  his  instructions,  and  that  therefore  ne  would  not 
lightly  abandon  the  attempt  to  pass  Lancaster  Sound. 
From  the  logs  of  the  whalers  year  after  year,  we  learn 
that  when  once  they  have  succeeded  in  rounding  tlie 
middle  ice,  they  enter  Lancaster  Sound  with  facUity  : 
had  Sir  John  Franklin,  then,  gained  that  Sound,  and 
from  the  premises  we  appear  to  be  fully  justified  in 
concluding  that  he  did  so,  and  had  he  afterward  en- 
countered a  compact  field  of  ice,  barring  Barrow's 
Strait  and  Wellington  Sound,  he  would  then,  after  be- 
ing convinced  that  he  would  lose  the  season  in  attempt 
ing  to  bore  through  it,  have  borne  up  for  Jones'  Sound, 
but  not  until  he  had  erected  a  conspicuous  landmark, 
and  lodged  a  memorandum  of  his  reason  for  deviating 
from  his  instructions. 

"The  absence  of  such  a  signal-post  in  Lancaster 
Sound  is  an  argument  against  the  expedition  having 
turned  back  from  thence,  and  is,  on  the  other  hand,  a 
strong  support  to  the  suspicion  that  Barrow's  Strait  wiT^ 
as  open  in  1845  as  when  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  first  passed 
it  in  1819  ;  that,  such  being  the  case,  Sir  John  Frank 
lin,  without  delay  and  without  landing,  pushed  on  to 
Cape  "Walker,  and  that,  subsequently,  in  endeavoring 
to  penetrate  to  the  southwest,  he  became  involved  in 
the  drift  ice,  which,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  urged 
by  the  prevailing  winds  and  the  set  of  the  flood  tides, 
is  carried  toward  Coronation  Gulf,  through  channels 
more  or  less  intricate.  Should  he  have  found  no  open- 
ing at  Cape  "Walker,  he  would,  of  course,  have  sought 
one  further  to  the  west ;  or,  finding  the  southerly  and 
westerly  opening  blocked  by  ice,  he  might  have  tried  a 
northern  passage. 

"  In  either  case,  the  plan  of  search  propounded  by 


OPINIONS    AND   HU(JGL8TlONH. 


261 


en- 


Sir  FmnciH  l>caufort  Roonm  to  provide  nf^'Jiinst  overv' 
contingency,  cHpeciiilly  when  taken  in  conjunction  with 
Ciinttiin  Collinnon's  expedition,  via  lieliring'a  Strait, 
and  the  hoat  parties  from  the  Mackenzie. 

"  I  do  not  venture  to  offer  an  opinion  on  the  Btrcngtli 
or  equipment  of  tlie  vessels  to  be  employed,  or  other 
merely  nautical  questions,  further  than  by  remarking, 
that  the  use  of  the  small  vessels,  which  forms  part  of 
Sir  Francis  Beaufort's  scheme,  is  supported  by  the  suc- 
cess of  the  early  navigators  with  their  very  small  craft, 
and  the  late  gallant  exploit  of  Mr.  Shedden,  in  round- 
ing Icy  Capo  and  Point  Barrow,  in  the  J^ancy  Dawson 
yacht. 

"  And  further,  with  respect  to  the  comparative  merits 
of  the  paddles  and  screw  in  the  arctic  seas,  I  beg  leave 
merely  to  observe,  that  as  long  as  the  screw  is  immersed 
in  water  it  will  continue  to  act,  irrespective  of  the  tern 
peraturo  of  the  air  ;  but  when,  as  occurs  late  in  tiio 
autumn,  the  atmosphere  is  suddenly  cooled  below  tho 
freezing  point  of  sea  water,  by  a  northerly  gale,  while 
the  sea  itself  remains  warmer,  the  i)addles  will  bo 
speedily  clogged  by  ice  accumulating  on  the  floats  as 
tliey  rise  through  the  air  in  every  revolution.  An  in- 
cident recorded  by  Sir  James  C.  lloss,  furnishes  a  strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  powerful  action  of  a  cold  wind  ; 
I  allude  to  a  fish  having  been  thrown  u]>  by  the  spray 
Jigainst  the  bows  of  the  Terror,  and  firmly  frozen  there, 
during  a  gale  in  a  high  southerly  latitude.  Moreover, 
even  with  the  aid  of  a  ready  contrivance  for  topping 
the  ])addle8,  the  flatness  or  hollowness  of  the  sides  of  a 
paddle  steamer  renders  her  less  fit  for  sustaining  pres- 
sui'e  ;  the  machinery  is  more  in  the  way  of  oblique 
beams  for  strengthening,  and  she  is  less  efficient  as  a 
sailing  vessel  when  the  steam  is  let  off." 

Memorandum  inclosed  in  Dr.  WCormiclc's  Letter 
of  the  1st  of  January^  1850. 

"  In  the  month  of  April  last,  I  laid  before  my  Lords 
Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  a  plan  of  search  for 
the  missing  expedition  under  the  command  of  Captain 


202 


rU«)(JKi:M   OK   AKC-'  f     ;;:ytON  KliV. 


Sir  John  Frmiklin,  hy  inetuiB  of  ii  liont  expedition  up 
JoneH^  and  Sniitli^b  bouudB,  voluntoering  niyeelf  to 
conduct  it. 

*^  In  tiiiitplan  I  stated  tlio  reasons  which  had  induced 
mo  to  direct  my  attention  more  especially  to  the  open- 
ings at  the  Iiead  of  l^afiin^s  13ay,  whicli,  at  the  time, 
were  not  included  within  the  general  scheme  of  search. 

"Wellington  Channel,  however,  of  all  the  ])robal)lo 
openings  into  the  l*olar  Sea,  possesses  the  higliept  de- 
gree of  interest,  and  the  exploration  of  it  is  of  such 
paramount  importance,  that  1  should  most  unquestion- 
ably have  comprised  it  within  my  plan  of  search,  had 
not  Her  Majesty's  ships  Enterprise  and  Investigator 
been  employed  at  the  time  in  Barrow's  Strait  for  the 
express  purpose  of  examining  this  inlet  and  Capo 
Walker,  two  of  the  most  essential  ix^ints  of  search  in 
the  whole  track  of  the  Erebits  and  Terror  to  the  west- 
ward ;  being  those  points  at  the  very  threshold  of  his 
ontei^prise,  from  which  Sir  John  Franklin  would  take 
his  departure  from  the  known  to  the  unknown,  whether 
lie  shaped  a  southwesterly  course  from  the  latter,  or 
attempted  the  passag^o  in  a  higher  latitude  from  the 
former  point. 

"  The  return  of  the  sea  expedition  from  Port  Leo- 
pold, and  the  overland  one  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
both  alike  unsuccessful  in  their  search,  leaves  the  fate 
of  the  gallant  Franklin  and  his  companions  as  })Foblc- 
matical  as  ever ;  in  fact,  the  case  stands  precisely  as  it 
did  two  years  ago ;  the  work  is  yet  to  bo  begun ;  every 
thing  remains  to  bo  accomplished. 

"  In  renewal  of  the  search  in  the  ensuing  spring, 
more  would  be  accomplished  in  boats  than  in  any  other 
way,  not  only  by  Behring^s  Strait,  but  from  the  east- 
ward. For  the  difficulties  attendant  on  icy  navigation 
which  form  so  insuperable  a  barrier  to  the  progress  of 
ships,  would  be  readily  surmounted  by  boats ;  by  means 
of  which  the  coast  line  may  be  closely  examined  for 
cairns  of  stones,  under  which  Sir  John  Franklin  would 
most  indubitably  deposit  memorials  of  his  progress 
^n  all  prominent  positions,  as  opportunities  might  offer. 


Ol'lNluNH   AM>   bUUULUTlONti. 


203 


Lco 


"Tho  diricovery  of  one  of  these  nioiiiciitort  wmiM,  in 
a  i  probability,  atiord  a  clue  that  iiii^ht  lead  to  the  rcH- 
ctic  of  our  cntorpriHiiig  countrymen,  ere  anotintr  and 
sixth  winter  close  in  upon  them,  should  they  be  still 
in  oxistonco ;  and  the  time  has  not  yet  arrived  for  aban- 
doning hope. 

"In  renewing  once  more  the  oflfer  of  my  services, 
which  r  do  most  cheerfully,  I  see  no  reason  for  chang- 
ing the  opinions  I  entertained  last  sprin<^;  Hu1)se<[ueiit 
events  have  only  tended  to  conlirm  them.  I  then  be- 
lieved, and  I  do  so  still,  after  a  long  and  nuiturc  con- 
sideration of  the  subject,  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  shipd 
have  been  arrested  in  a  high  latitude,  and  beset  in  tifu 
heavy  polar  ice  northward  of  the  Parry  Islands,  and 
that  their  probable  course  thither  has  been  through  the 
Wellington  Channel,  or  one  of  the  sounds  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

"This  ai)pears  to  mo  to  be  the  only  view  of  the  case 
that  can  in  any  way  account  for  the  entire  absence  oi' 
all  tidings  of  them  throughout  so  protracted  a  period 
of  time  (unless  all  have  perished  by  some  sudden  and 
overwhelming  catastrophe.) 

"Isolated  as  their  position  would  be  under  snch  cir- 
cumstances, any  attempt  to  reach  the  continent  of 
America  at  such  a  distance  would  be  hopeless  in  the 
extreme :  and  the  mere  chance  of  any  party  from  the 
fillips  reaching  the  top  of  Baffin's  Bay  at  the  very  mo- 
ment of  a  whaler's  brief  and  uncertain  visit  would  bo 
Attended  with  by  far  too  great  a  risk  to  justify  the  at- 
tempt, for  failure  would  insure  inevitable  destruction 
to  the  whole  party;  therefore  their  only  alternative 
would  be  to  keep  together  in  their  ships,  should  no  dis- 
aster have  happened  to  them,  and  by  husbanding  their 
remaining  resources,  eke  them  out  with  whatever  wild 
animals  may  come  within  their  reach. 

"  Had  Sir  John  Franklin  been  able  to  shape  a  south- 
westerly course  from  Cape  Walker,  as  directed  by  his 
instructions,  the  probability  is,  some  intelligence  of 
him  would  have  reached  this  country  ere  this,  (nearly 
five  years  Laving  already  elapsed  since  his  departm-e 

12 


m 


264 


rtiOGKESS  OF  AKCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


from  it.)  Parties  would  have  been  sent  out  from  his 
ships,  either  in  the  direction  of  the  coast  of  America 
or  Barrow's  Strait,  whichever  happened  co  be  the  most 
accessible.  Esquimaux  would  have  been  fallen  in 
with,  and  tidings  of  the  long-absent  expedition  have 
been  obtained. 

"  Failing  in  penetrating  beyond  Cape  "Walker,  Sir 
John  Franklin  would  have  left  some  notice  of  his  fu- 
ture intentions  on  that  spot,  or  the  nearest  accessible 
one  to  it ;  and  should  he  then  retrace  his  course  for  the 
Wellington  Channel,  the  most  probable  conjecture,  he 
would  not  pass  up  that  inlet  without  depositing  a  fur- 
ther account  of  his  proceedings,  either  on  the  western 
or  eastern  point  of  the  entrance  to  it. 

"  Therefor t^  should  my  proposal  meet  with  their 
Lordships'  approbation,  I  would  most  respectfully  sub- 
mit, that  the  party  I  have  volunteered  to  conduct 
should  be  landed  at  the  entrance  to  the  Wellington 
Channel,  or  the  nearest  point  attainable  by  any  ship 
that  their  Lordships  may  deem  fit  to  employ  in  a  fu- 
ture search,  consistently  with  any  other  services  that 
ship  may  have  to  perform ;  and  should  a  landing  bo 
eifected  on  the  eastern  side,  I  would  propose  commenc- 
ing the  search  from  Cape  Riley  or  Beechey  Island  in 
a  northeriy  direction,  carefully  examining  every  re- 
markable headland  and  indentation  of  the  western 
coast  of  North  Devon  for  memorials  of  the  missing  ex- 
pedition; I  would  then  cross  over  the  Wellington 
Channel  and  continue  the  search  along  the  northern 
shore  of  Cornwallis  Island,  extending  the  exploration 
to  the  westward  as  far  as  the  remaining  portion  of  tlio 
season  would  permit,  so  as  to  secure  the  retreat  of  the 
party  before  the  winter  set  in,  returning  either  by  the 
eastern  or  western  side  of  Cornwallis  Island,  as  cir- 
cumstances might  indicate  to  be  the  most  desirable  at 
the  time,  after  ascertaining  the  general  extent  and 
trending  of  the  shores  of  that  island. 

"As,  however,  it  would  be  highly  desirable  that 
Jones'  Bound  should  not  be  omitted  in  the  search,  more 
especially  ae  a  whaler,  last  season,  reached  its  entrance 


OPlNIOxSS  AND  SUOGESTIOInP. 


2f)5 


and  reported  it  open,  I  would  furlner  pffo^pose,  that  tlie 
ship  conveying  the  exploring  party  out  should  look  into 
this  opening  on  her  way  to  Lancaster  Sound,  if  circum- 
stances permitted  of  her  doing  so  early  in  the  season  ; 
and,  if  found  to  be  free  from  ice,  the  attempt  might  be 
made  by  the  boat  expedition  to  push  through  it  to  the 
westward  in  this  latitude ;  and  should  it  prove  to  be 
an  opening  into  the  Polar  Sea,  of  which  I  think  there 
can  be  little  doubt,  a  great  saving  of  time  and  distance 
would  be  accomplished.  Failing  in  this,  the  ship  should 
be  secm'ed  in  some  central  position  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Wellington  Channel,  as  a  point  d^appui  to  tall  back 
upon  in  the  search  from  that  quarter. 

(Signed,)  K.  M'Coemick,  K.  N. 

"  Twickenham^  1st  of  Janua/ry^  1850." 


Outline  of  a  Plan  of  an  Overland  Journey  to  the 
Polar  Sea,  hy  the  Way  of  the  Coppermine  Biver, 
in  Search  of  Sir  John  M'anMin^s  Mopediticm,  sug- 
gested in  1*84:7. 

"  If  Sir  John  Franklin,  guided  by  his  instructions, 
has  passed  through  Barrow's  Strait,  and  shaped  a  south- 
westerly course,  from  the  meridian  of  Cape  "Walker, 
with  the  intention  of  gaining  the  northern  coast  ®i  the 
continent  of  America,  and  so  passing  through  the  Dol- 
phin and  Union  Strait,  along  the  shore  of  that  conti- 
nent, to  Behring's  Strait; 

"  His  greatest  risk  of  detention  by  the  ice  through- 
out this  course  would  be  found  between  the  parallels  of 
74°  and  69°  north  latitude,  and  the  meridians  of  100° 
and  110°  west  longitude,  or,  in  other  words,  that  por- 
tion of  the  northwest  passage  which  yet  remains  unex- 
plored, occupying  the  space  between  the  western  coast 
of  Boothia  ou  the  one  side,  and  the  island  or  islands 
forming  Banks'  and  Victoria  Lands  on  the  other. 

"  Should  the  Erebus  and  Terror  have  been  beset  in 
the  heavy  drift-ice,  or  wrecked  among  it  and  the  bro- 
ken land,  which  in  all  probability  exists  there  while 
contending  with  the  prevalent  westerly  winds  in  this 
quarter  ; 


\- 


2b«5 


PKOGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


"  Tbo  Coppermine  River  would  decidedly  offer  tho 
most  direct  route  and  nearest  approach  to  that  portion 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  and,  after  crossing  Coronation  Gulf, 
the  average  breadth  of  the  Strait  between  the  Conti 
nent  and  Victoria  Land  is  only  about  twenty-two  miles. 

"  From  this  point  a  careful  search  should  be  com- 
menced in  the  direction  of  Banks'  Land  ;  the  interven- 
ing space  between  it  and  Yictoria  Land,  occupying 
about  five  degrees,  or  little  more  than  300  miles,  could, 
I  think,  be  accomplished  in  one  season,  and  a  retreat  to 
winter  quarters  effected  before  the  winter  set  in.  As 
the  ice  m  tlie  Coppermine  River  breaks  up  in  June, 
the  searching  party  ought  to  reach  the  sea  by  the  be- 
ginning of  August,  which  would  leave  two  of  the  best 
months  of  the  year  for  exploring  the  Polar  Sea,  viz  : 
August  and  September. 

"  As  it  would  be  highly  desirable  that  every  available 
day,  to  the  latest  period  of  the  season,  should  be  de- 
voted to  the  search,  I  should  propose  wintering  on  the 
coast  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River,  which  would  also  afford  a  favorable  position 
from  which  to  recommence  the  search  in  the  following 
spring,  should  the  first  season  prove  unsuccessful. 

"  Of  course  the  object  of  sucn  an  expedition  as  I  have 
proposed  is  not  with  the  view  of  taking  supplies  to  such 
a  numerous  party  as  Sir  John  Franklin  has  under  his 
command  ;  but  to  find  out  his  position,  and  acquaint 
bim  where  a  depot  of  provisions  would  be  stored  up 
for  himself  and  crews  at  my  proposed  winter  quarters, 
where  a  party  should  be  left  to  build  a  house,  establish 
a  fishery,  ana  hunt  for  game,  during  the  absence  of  the 
searching  party. 

"  To  carry  out  this  plan  efficiently,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  should  be  requested  to  lend  their  powerful 
cooperation  in  furnishing  guides,  supplies  of  pemmican, 
&c.,  for  the  party  on  their  route  and  at  winter  quarters. 
Without  entering  into  details  here,  I  may  observe,  that 
I  should  consider  one  boat,  combining  the  necessary 
requisites  in  L3r  construction  to  fit  her  for  either  the 
river  navigation,  or  that  of  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 


Bay 

erful 

ican, 

'ters. 

that 

sary 

the 

Sea, 


OnXIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


207 


would  be  quite  sufficient,  with  a  crew  one  lialf  sailors, 
and  the  other  half  Canadian  boatmen  ;  the  latter  to  be 
engaged  at  Montreal,  for  which  place  I  would  propose 
leaving  England  in  tlie  montii  of  February. 

"  Sliould  such  an  expedition  even  fail  in  its  main  ob- 
ject —  tlic  discovery  ot  the  position  of  the  missing  ships 
and  their  crews,  the  long-sought-for  polar  passage  may 
be  accomplished. 

(Signed,)  R.  M'Coemick,  R.  N. 

"  Woolwich,  1847." 


Copy  of  a  Letter  froin  Lieutenant  Sherard  Oshorn  to 
the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  .  idiriiralty. 

"  Ealing,  Middlesex,  4:th  January,  1850. 

"  My  IjOrds, —  A  second  attempt  to  reach  Sir  John 
Franklin's  expedition  being  about  to  be  tried  during 
tlie  present  year,  I  take  the  liberty  of  calling  your  at- 
tention to  the  inclosed  proposition  for  an  overland  party 
to  be  dispatched  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  with  a 
view  to  their  traversing  the  short  distance  between  Capo 
Bathurst  and  Banks'  L{i.id.  My  rcasonr.  f-T  thus  tres- 
passing on  your  attention  ;-v.  3  a-^  follows  ; 

"1st.  General  opiincn  ]>]accs  the  lost  expedition  to 
tl.o  west  of  Cape  Walkei,,  and  rridh  of  iho  li^itude  of 
Melville  Island. 

"  The  distance  fro  n  Cape  BaiJir.rst  to  Ba  _i^s' Land 
is  only  301  miles,  and  on  r<  fercnce  to  a  chart  it  will  bo 
seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  continent 
approach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Franklin's 
expedition, 

"  2d.  As  a  starting  point.  Cape  Bathurst  offers  great 
advantages  ;  the  arrival  of  a  ^'^rty  sent  there  from 
England  may  be  calculated  u^/v/xi  tO  a  day ;  whereas 
the  arrival  of  Captain  Collinson  in  the  longitude  of 
Cape  Barrow,  or  that  of  an  eastern  expedition  in  Lan- 
caster Soimd,  will  depend  upon  many  uncontrollable 
contingencies.  The  distance  to  bo  performed  is  com- 
paratively little,  and  the  certainty  of  being  able  to  fall 
back  upon  supplies  offers  great  advantages.    Captain 


i 


"ft!"' 


t 


iw 


i. 


k 


htf  '  n 


268 


TKOaiiESS   CF    AlKrriC   DI.SCO\'Ki:V. 


Iji  '|i 


i&  ■ 


CoUinson  ■will  have  680  miles  of  longitude  to  traverse 
between  Caj^e  Barrow  and  Banks'  Land.  An  Eastern 
Expedition,  if  opposed  hy  the  ice,  (as  -Sir  James  Ross 
has  been,)  and  nnable  to  proceed  in  their  vessels  farther 
than  Leopold  Harbor,  will  have  to  journey  on  foot  330 
miles  to  reach  the  lonr^itude  of  Banks'  Land,  and  if 
any  accident  occur  to  their  vessels,  they  will  be  in  as 
critical  a  position  as  those  they  go  to  seek. 

••'  3d.  Banks'  Land  bears  from  Cape  Bathurst  N.  41° 
49'  E.  302  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  be 
traversed  in  boats. 

"  i  '\  and  5th.  Dr.  Richardson  confirms  previous  re- 
ports of  the  ice  being  light  on  the  coast  east  of  tiie 
Mackenzie  River  to  Oapp  Bathurst,  and  informs  us 
that  the  Esquimaux  had  seen  no  ice  to  seaw^ard  for  tw<  > 
moons. 

"  6th.  Every  mile  traversed  northward  by  a  party 
from  Cape  Bathurst  would  be  over  that  unknown  space 
in  which  traces  of  Franklin  may  be  expected. 

"  7th.  It  is  advisable  that  such  a  second  party  be 
dispatched  from  Cape  Bathurst,  in  order  that  the  pros- 
ecution of  Dr.  Rae's  examination  of  the  supposed  chan- 
nel between  Wollaston  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no 
way  be  interfered  with  by  his  attention  being  called  to 
the  westward. 

"8th.  The  caohes  of  provisions  made  at  difterent 
points  of  the  Mackenzie  and  at  Cape  Bathurst,  would 
enable  a  party  to  push  down  to  their  starting  point  with 
great  celerity  directly  the  River  Mackenzie  opens, 
which  may  be  as  early  as  May. 

*'  I  would  also  remind  your  Lordships  that  the  pro- 
posed expedition  would  carry  into  execution  a  very  im- 
portant clause  in  the  instructions  given  to  Sir  James 
Ross  ;  viz  :  that  of  sending  exploring  parties  from 
Banks'  Land  in  a  southwesterly  direction  toward  Cape 
Bathurst  or  Cape  Parry. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  ofier  my  willing  services  to- 
ward the  execution  of  the  proposed  plan  ;  and  seeking 
it  from  no  selfish  motives,  but  thoroughly  impressed 


OPINI03S5   AND   r^lQOESTIONS. 


2G9 


Jape 


with  its  feasibility,  you  may  rest  assured,  my  lords, 
should  I  have  the  honor  of  being  sent  upon  this  service, 
that  I  shall  not  disappoint  your  expectations. 
"I  have,  &c., 
.^Signed,)  "  Sheeaed  Osborn,  Lieut.,  R.  N." 


Coipy  of  a  Letter  from  Colonel  Sabine^  R.  A.,  to  Caj^- 
tavn  Sir  W.  Edward  Parry. 

"  Castle-down  Terra^ct^  Houttings^ 
"  15^A  of  Januar^j^  185(>. 

"There  can  be  little  doubt,  I  imagine,  in  the  miud  of 
any  one  who  has  read  attentively  Franklin's  instruc- 
tions, and,  (in  reference  to  them,)  your  description  of 
the  state  of  tlie  ice  and  of  tlie  navigable  water  in  1819 
and  1820,  in  the  route  which  he  was  ordered  to  pursue; 
still  less,  I  think,  can  there  oe  a  doubt  in  the  mind  of 
any  one  who  had  the  advantage  of  being  with  you  in 
those  years,  that  Franklin,  (ah/ays  supposing  no  pre- 
vious disaster,)  must  have  made  his  way  to  the  south- 
west part  of  Melville  Island  either  in  1845  or  1846.  It 
has  been  said  that  1845  was  an  unfavorable  season,  and 
as  the  navigation  of  Davis'  Strait  and  Baffin's  Bay  was 
liGW  to  Franklin,  we  may  regard  it  as  more  probable 
that  it  may  have  taken  him  two  seasons  to  accomplish 
what  we  accom]>iIshed  in  one.  So  far,  I  think,  guided 
by  his  instructions  and  by  the  experience  gained  in 
1819  and  1820,  we  may  reckon  pretty  confidently  on 
the  first  stage  of  his  proceedings,  and  doubtless,  in  his 
progress  he  would  have  left  memorials  in  the  usual 
manner  at  places  where  he  may  have  landed,  some  of 
which  would  be  likely  to  fall  in  the  way  of  a  vessel  fol- 
lowing in  his  track.  From  the  west  end  of  Melville 
Island  our  inferences  as  to  his  further  proceedings  must 
become  more  conjectural,  being  contingent  on  the  state 
of  the  ice  and  the  existence  of  navigable  water  in  the 
particular  ecnson.  If  he  found  tlie  ocean,  as  we  did, 
covered  to  tiiP,  west  and  south,  as  liar  as  the  eye  couhl 
reach  from  llie  summit  of  the  highest  hills,  with  ice  of 
a  thickness  unparalleled  in  anv  other  part  of  the  Polar 


ilii 


ill 


i. 


270 


riiOGRKSS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


P"^:^^!! 


S'  f»>\  ^f'ji 


Sea,  he  would,  after  probably  waiting  through  one  whole 
Beason  in  the  hope  of  some  favorable  change,  have  re- 
traced his  fiteps,  in  obedience  to  the  second  part  of  his 
instructions,  in  order  to  seek  an  opening  to  the  north 
which  might  conduct  to  a  more  open  sea.  In  this  case 
some  memorial  of  the  season  passed  by  him  at  the 
southwest  end  of  Melville  Island,  and  also  of  his  pur- 
pose of  retracing  his  steps,  would  doubtless  have  been 
left  by  him  ;  and  should  ho  subsequently  have  found 
an  opening  to  the  north,  presenting  a  favorable  appear- 
ance, there  also,  should  circumstances  have  permitted, 
would  a  memorial  have  been  Ijft. 

"  lie  may,  however,  have  found  a  more  favorable 
Btate  of  things  at  the  southwest  end  of  Melville  Island 
than  we  did,  and  may  have  been  led  thereby  to  at 
tempt  to  fo)  ce  a  passage  for  his  ships  in  the  direct  lint* 
of  Behrin^^'s  Strait,  or  perhaps,  in  the  first  instance,  to 
the  south  of  that  direction,  namely,  to  Banks'  Land 
In  such  case  two  contingencies  present  themselves* 
first,  that  in  the  season  of  navigation  of  1817  he  may 
have  made  so  much  progress,  that  in  1848  he  may  have 
preferred  the  endeavor  to  push  through  to  Behring's 
Strait,  or  to  some  western  part  of  the  continent,  to  an 
attempt  to  return  by  the  way  of  Barrow's  Strait ;  thu 
mission  of  the  Plover,  the  Enterprise,  and  the  Inves- 
tigator together  with  Dr.  llae's  expedition,  supply,  1 
presume,  (^for  I  am  but  partially  acquainted  with  their 
instructions,)  the  most  judicious  means  of  affording  re- 
lief in  this  direction.  There  is,  however,  a  second  coii- 
tiiig^ncj  .;  and  it  is  the  one  which  the  impression  left 
on  my  mind  b;-  the  nature  and  general  aspect  of  the 
icf.-  in  the  twelve  months  which  we  ourselves  passed  at 
the  southwest  end  of  Melville  Island,  compels  me,  iu 
spite  of  my  wishes,  to  regard  as  the  more  probable, 
viz.,  that  his  advance  from  Melville  Island  in  the  sea- 
eon  of  1847  may  have  been  limited  to  a  distance  of 
fifty,  or  perhaps  one  hundred  miles  at  farthest,  and 
that  in  1848  he  may  have  endeavored  to  retrace  hi^ 
steps,  but  only  with  partial  success.  It  is,  I  apprehend, 
quite  a  conceivable  case,  that  under  these  circumstances, 


OPINIONS   AND   SUOOESTIONB. 


271 


hring  ;s 
to  nil 
;  thu 


con- 
on  left 
of  the 
sed  at 
me,  iu 
biible, 
le  sea- 
ice  of 
t,  and 
ce  liis 
jliend, 
ances, 


incapable  of  extricating  the  ships  from  the  ice,  the 
crews  may  have  been,  at  length,  obliged  to  quit  them, 
and  attempt  a  retreat,  not  toward  the  continent,  because 
too  distant,  but  to  Melville  Island,  where  certainly 
food,  and  probably  fuel  (seals,)  might  bo  obtained,  and 
where  they  would  naturally  suppose  that  vessels  dis- 
patched from  England  for  their  relief  would,  in  the 
lirst  instance,  seek  them.  It  is  quite  conceivable  also, 
I  apprehend,  that  the  circumstances  might  be  such 
that  their  retreat  may  have  been  made  without  their 
boats,  and  probably  in  the  April  or  May  of  IS-iO. 

"Where  the  Esquimaux  have  lived,  there  Englishmen 
may  live,  and  no  valid  argument  against  the  attempt 
to  relieve  can,  I  think,  be  founded  on  the  improbability 
of  finding  Englishmen  alive  in  1850,  who  .may  have 
made  a  retreat  to  Melville  Island  in  the  spring  of  1849  ; 
nur  would  the  view  of  the  case  be  altered  in  any  ma- 
terial degree,  if  we  suppose  their  retreat  to  Lave  been 
made  in  1848  or  1849  to  Banks'  Land,  which  may 
afford  facilities  of  food  and  fuel  equal  or  superior  to 
Melville  Island,  and  a  further  retreat  iu  the  following 
year  to  the  latter  island  as  the  point  at  which  they 
would  more  probably  look  out  for  succor. 

"  Without  disparagement,  therefore,  to  the  attempts 
made  in  other  directions,  I  retain  my  original  opinion, 
which  seems  also  to  have  been  the  opinion  of  the 
Board  of  A(imiralty,  by  which  Ross's  instructions  were 
drawn  up,  that  the  most  promising  direction  for  re- 
search would  be  taken  by  a  vessel  which  should  follow 
them  to  the  southwest  point  of  Melville  Island,  be  jn-e- 
pared  to  winter  there,  and,  if  necessary,  to  send  a 
party  across  the  ice  in  April  or  May  to  examine  Banks' 
Land,  a  distance  (there  and  back)  less  than  recently 
accomplished  by  Ross  in  his  land  journey. 

"I  learn  from  Ross's  dispatches,  that  almost  imme- 
diately after  he  got  out  of  Port  Leopold  (1849,)  he  was 
entangled  in  apparently  interminable  fields  and  tlooa 
of  ice,  with  which,  in  the  course  of  the  summer,  ho 
was  drifted  down  through  Barrow's  Strait  and  Baffin's 
Bay  nearly  to  Davis'  Strait.    It  is  reasooftble  to  pro- 


Li* 


272 


PROGRESn   OF   ARCTIC    PISCOTERY. 


Bumo,  therefore,  that  the  localities  from  whence  thi^ 
ice  drifted  are  likely  to  be  less  encumbered  than  usua 
by  accumulated  ice  in  1850.  It  is,  of  course,  of  the 
highest  importance  to  reach  Barrow's  Strait  at  the  ear 
liest  possible  period  of  the  season ;  and,  connected  witi 
this  point  I  learn  from  Captain  Bird,  whom  I  had  tlu 
pleasure  of  seeing  here  a  few  days  ago,  a  very  remark 
able  fact,  that  the  ice  which  prevented  their  crossing 
Baffin's  Bay  in  72°  or  73°  of  latitude  (as  we  did  iii 
1819,  arriving  in  Barrow's  Strait  a  month  earlier  than 
we  had  done  the  preceding  year,  when  we  went  round 
by  Melville  Bay,  and  nearly  a  month  earlier  than  Rtiss 
did  last  year)  was  young  ice,  which  had  formed  in  the 
remarkably  calm  summer  of  last  year,  and  which  the 
absence  of  wind  prevented  their  forcing  a  passage 
through,  on  the  one  hand,  while  on  the  other,  the  ice 
was  not  heavy  enough  for  ice  anchors.  It  was,  he  said, 
not  more  than  two  or  two  and  a  half  feet  thick,  and  ol)- 
viously  of  very  recent  formation.  There  must,  there- 
fore, liave  been  an  earlier  period  of  the  season  when 
this  part  of  the  sea  must  have  been  free  from  ice ;  and 
this  comes  in  confirmation  of  a  circumstance  of  which 
I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Petersen  (a  Danish  gentleman 
eent  to  England  some  months  ago  by  the  Northern  So- 
ciety of  Antiquaries  of  Copenhagen,  to  make  extracts 
from  books  and  manuscripts  in  the  British  Museum,) 
that  the  Northmen,  who  had  settlementEu  some  centu- 
ries ago  on  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  were  in  the 
habit  of  crossing  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  latitude  of  Uper- 
navic  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  for  the  purpose  of  fish- 
ing in  Barrow's  Strait,  from  whence  they  returned  in 
August ;  and  that  in  the  early  months  they  generally 
found  the  passage  across  free  from  ice. 

"  In  the  preceding  remarks,  I  have  left  one  contin- 
gency unconsidered  ;  it  is  that  which  would  have  fol 
lowed  in  pursuance  of  his  instructions,  if  Franklin  should 
liavo  found  tlie  aspect  of  the  ice  too  imfavorablo  to  the 
W'est  and  south  of  Melville  Island  to  attempt  to  force  a 
passage  tlirongh  it,  and  should  base  retraced  his  ntepn 
m  liopes  of  iiii'ling  a  more  ^^pen  aea  to  the  northward, 


OPINIONS    AND   SnOOKSTIONfl. 


273 


Hither  in  Wellington  Strait  or  elsewhere.  It  is  quite 
conceivable  that  licre  also  the  expedition  may  have  en- 
countered, at  no  very  great  distance,  insuperable  ditti- 
culties  to  their  advance,  and  may  have  failed  in  accom- 
plishing a  return  witli  their  ships.  In  this  case,  the 
retreat  of  the  crews,  supposing  it  to  have  been  nuide 
across  land  or  ice,  would  most  probably  be  directed  to 
some  part  of  the  coast  on  the  route  to  Melville  Island, 
on  which  route  they  would,  without  doubt,  expect  that 
succor  would  be  attempted." 

Mr.  Robert  A.  Goodsir,  a  brother  of  Mr.  11.  D.  Good- 
sir,  the  assistant-surgeon  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  ship, 
the  Erebus,  left  Stromness,  as  surgeon  of  the  Advice, 
whaler,  Capt.  Penny,  on  the  17th  of  March,  1849,  in 
the  hopes  of  gaining  some  tidings  of  his  brother  ;  but 
returned  unsuccesstul  after  an  eight  months'  voyage, 
lie  has,  however,  published  a  very  interesting  little 
narrative  of  the  icy  regions  and  of  his  arctic  voyage. 

In  a  letter  to  Lady  Franklin,  dated  Edinburgh,  18th 
of  January,  1850,  he  says  : — "  I  trust  you  are  not  allow- 
ing yourself  to  become  over-anxious.  I  know  that, 
although  there  is  much  cause  to  be  so,  there  is  still  not 
the  slightest  reason  that  we  should  despair.  It  may  be 
presumptuous  in  me  to  say  so,  but  I  have  never  lor  a 
moment  doubted  as  to  their  ultimate  safe  return,  having 
always  had  a  sort  of  presentiment  that  I  would  meet  my 
brother  and  his  companions  somewhere  in  the  regions 
in  which  their  adventures  are  taking  place.  This  nope 
I  have  not  yet  given  up,  and  I  trust  tnat  by  next  sum- 
mer it  may  be  ftilfilled,  when  an  end  will  be  put  to  the 
suspense  which  has  lasted  so  long,  and  which  must  have 
tripd  you  so  much." 

The  arctic  regions,  far  from  being  so  destitute  of  ani- 
mal life  as  might  be  supposed  from  the  bleak  and  inhos- 
Eitable  character  of  the  climate,  are  proverbial  for  the 
oundless  profusion  of  various  species  of  the  animal 
kingdom,  which  arc  to  be  mot  witli  in  different  locali- 
ties during  a  great  part  of  the  year. 

The  air  is  often  darkened  by  innumerable  flocks  of 
arctic  and  blue  gulls,  {Lestris  Parasiticus^  and  Lariis 


ii 


,1 


m 


274 


I»R()ORKSS   OF  AllCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


glaucusi)  tho  ivory  gull  or  8no^*-bird,  {Larua  chtnieuSj) 
the  kittiwake,  the  tulmar  or  poirel,  snow  ceese,  terns, 
couiis,  dovckicc,  iSzc.  The  cetaceou.s  anitTiRlH  conmriRC 
the  great  Greenland  whale,  {Balmna  r/iyaticetus^)  the 
sea  unicorn  or  narwhal,  {Moiiodon  monoceros^  tho 
white  whale  or  beluga,  (Delpldnua  leucos,)  tho  morse 
or  walrus,  (Trlchecus  rosmarua^  and  the  seal.  There 
are  also  plenty  of  porpoises  occasionally  to  be  met  with, 
and  although  these  animals  may  not  be  the  best  of  food, 
yet  tliey  can  bo  eaten.  Of  the  land  animals  I  may  in- 
stance tho  polar  bear,  the  musk-ox,  the  reindeer,  tho 
arctic  fox  and  wolves. 

Parry  obtained  nearly  40001b8.  weight  of  animal  food 
during  his  winter  resiaence  at  Melville  Island ;  Ross 
nearly  tho  same  quantity  from  birds  alone  when  winter- 
ing at  Port  Leopold. 

In  1719,  the  crews  of  two  Hudson's  Bay  vessels,  the 
Albany  and  Discovery,  a  ship  and  sloop,  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Knight,  were  cast  on 
shore  on  Marble  Island,  and  it  was  subsequently  ascer- 
tained that  some  of  the  party  supported  life  for  nearly 
three  years.  Mr.  Hearne  learneu  the  particulars  from 
some  of  the  Esquimaux  in  1729.  The  ship  it  appeared 
went  on  shore  in  the  fall  of  1719 ;  the  party  being  then 
in  number  about  fifty,  began  to  build  their  house  for 
the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  ice  permitted  in  the  follow- 
ing summer  the  Esquimaux  paid  them  another  visit,  and 
found  tho  number  of  sailors  much  reduced,  and  very 
unhealthy. 

Sickness  and  famine  occasioned  such  havoc  among 
them  that  by  the  petting  in  of  the  second  winter,  their 
number  was  reduced  to  twenty.  Some  of  the  Esqui- 
maux took  up  their  abode  at  this  period  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  supplied  them  with  what  provis- 
ions they  could  spare  in  the  shape  of  blubber,  seal's 
fl^sh,  and  train  oil. 

The  Esquimaux  left  for  their  wanderings  in  the 
spring,  and  on  revisiting  the  island  in  the  summer  of 
1721,  only  five  of  the  crews  were  found  alive,  and  these 
were  so  ravenous  for  food,  that  they  devoured  the  blub- 


ABUNDANCK   or    ANIMAL    FOOD    MIT    WITH. 


07  r 


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ite 

ds- 


the 
of 


l)cr  and  bquVh  ilesli  mw,  as  they  jnirchasod  it  of  tho 
nativos,  •Nvhieli  proved  so  injurious  in  their  weak  state, 
tliat  three  of  tlieni  (li«i(l  in  a  few  days.  Tlio  two  sur- 
vivors, though  very  weak,  managed  to  bury  their  com- 
rades, and  protracted  their  existence  for  some  days 
lonfjer. 

"They  frequently,"  in  the  •words  of  the  narraMve, 
•'went  to  the  top  of  an  adj^ent  rock,  and  earnestly 
looked  to  the  sou^lt  and  east,  as  if  in  expectation  of*sonie 
vessels  coming  ^  leir  relief.  After  continuing  tlii^ro 
a  considerable  tmio,  and  nothing  appearing  in  sight, 
they  sat  down  close  together,  and  wept  bitterly.  At 
length  one  of  the  two  died,  and  the  other's  strength  was 
so  far  exhausted,  that  ho  fell  down  and  died  also  in 
attcnnpting  to  dig  a  grave  for  his  companion.  The  skulls 
and  otlier  large  bones  of  these  two  men  are  now  lying 
al)ove  grounff  close  to  the  house." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  speaking  of  tho  amount  of  food 
to  be  obtained  in  the  polar  region,  says,  "  Deer  migrate 
over  the  ice  in  the  spring  from  the  main  shore  to  Vic- 
toria and  Wollaston  Lands  in  large  herds,  and  return  in 
the  autumn.  These  lands  are  also  the  breeding  places 
of  vast  flocks  of  snow  geese ;  so  that  with  ordinary 
skill  in  hunting,  a  largo  supply  of  food  might  be  pro- 
cured on  their  shores,  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August.  Seals  are  also  numerous  in  those  seas,  and 
are  easily  shot,  their  curiosity  rendering  them  a  ready 
prey  to  a  boat  party."  In  these  ways  and  by  fishing, 
the  stock  of  provisions  might  be  greatly  augmented  — 
and  wo  have  the  recent  example  of  Mr.  Kae,  who 
passed  a  severe  winter  on  the  very  barren  shores  of 
Repulse  Bay,  with  no  other  fuel  than  the  withered  tufts 
of  a  herbaceous  andromada,  and  maintained  a  numer- 
c»us  party  on  the  spoils  of  the  chase  alone  for  a  whole 
year.  Such  instances,  forbid  us  to  lose  hope.  Should 
Sir  John  Franklin's  provisions  become  so  far  inade- 
quate to  a  winter's  consumption,  it  is  not  likely  that  ho 
would  remain  longer  by  his  ships,  but  rather  that  in 
one  body,  or  in  several,  the  officers  and  crews,  with 
boats  cut  down  so  as  to  be  light  enough  to  drag  over 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STRiET 

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27G 


PROORESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


the  ice,  or  built  expressly  for  that  purpose,  would  en- 
deavor to  make  their  way  eastward  to  Lancaster  Sound, 
or  southward  to  the  main-land,  according  to  the  longi- 
tude in  which  the  ships  were  arrested. 

We  ought  not  to  judge  of  the  supplies  of  food  that 
can  be  procured  in  the  arctic  regions  by  diligent  hunt- 
ing, from  the  quantities  that  have  been  actually  ob- 
tained on  the  several  es^^editions  that  have  returned, 
and  consequently  of  the  means  of  preserving  life  there. 
When  there  was  abundance  in  the  ships,  the  address 
arid  energy  of  the  hunting  parties  was  not  likely  to  be 
called  fortn,  as  they  woula  inevitably  be  when  the  exis- 
tence of  the  crews  depended  solely  on  their  personal 
efforts,  and  formed  their  chief  or  only  object  in  their 
march  toward  quarters  where  relief  might  be  looked 
for.  This  remark  has  reference  to  the  supposition  that 
on  the  failure  of  the  stock  of  provisions  in  the  ships, 
the  crews  would,  in  separate  parties  under  their  officers, 
seek  for  succor  in  several  directions. 

With  an  empty  stomach,  the  power  of  resisting  exter- 
nal cold  is  greatly  impaired ;  out  when  the  process  of 
digesting  is  going  on  vigorously,  even  with  compara- 
tively scanty  clothing,  the  neat  of  the  body  is  preserved. 
There  is  in  the  winter  time,  in  high  latitudes,  a  craving 
for  fat  or  oleaginous  food,  and  for  such  occasions  the 
flesh  of  seals,  walruses,  or  bears,  forms  a  useful  article 
of  diet.  Captain  Cook  says  that  the  walrus  is  a  sweet 
and  wholesome  article  of  food.  Whales  and  seals  would 
also  furnish  light  and  fuel.  The  necessity  for  increased 
food  in  very  cold  weather,  is  not  so  great  when  the 
people  do  not  work. 

Mr.  Gilpin,  in  his  narrative  in  the  Nautical  Maga- 
zine for  M!arch,  1850,  writes  thus  :  — 

"About  the  20th  of  June  a  small  water  bird,  called 
the  doveky,  had  become  so  numerous,  and  so  many 
were  daily  shot  by  those  who  troubled  themselves  to  go 
after  them,  that  shooting  parties  from  each  ship,  con- 
sisting of  an  officer  and  marine,  were  established  at 
Whaler  Point,  where  they  remained  the  whole  week, 
returning  on  board  on  Saturday  night.    In  a  week  or 


ADUNDAKCK   OF    ANIMAL   FOOD   MET   WITH. 


277 


Laga- 

jalled 
lany 
I  to  go 
L  con- 
led  at 
reek, 
bck  or 


so  after  this  the  coon,  a  much  lieavier  bird,  became 
more  plentiful  than  the  little  doveky,  and  from  this 
time  to  the  middle  of  August,  so  successful  and  untir- 
ing were  our  sportsmen,  that  the  crew  received  each  a 
bird  per  man  a  day. 

"  The  account  kept  on  board  the  Investigator  showed 
the  number  of  birds  killed  to  have  amounted  to  about 
4000,  and  yielding  near  25001b8.  of  meat.  But  more 
than  tliis  was  obtained,  as  many  were  shot  by  individ- 
uals for  amusement,  and  not  alwavs  noted." 

Mr.  Goodsir,  surgeon,  when  in  the  Advice  whaler,  on 
her  voyage  up  Lancaster  Sound,  in  the  summer  of  18-40, 
sjK'aking  of  landing  on  one  of  the  WoUaston  Islands,  on 
tlie  west  side  of  Wavy  Board  Inlet,  says  he  disturbed 
about  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  the  eider-duck  {/Somateria 
mollissima.)  Their  eggs  he  found  to  be  within  a  few 
hours  of  maturity.  There  were,  besides,  numerous  nests, 
the  occupants  of  which  had  probably  winged  their  way 
southward.  Two  brent  geese,  (Anser  lernicla,)  and  a 
single  pair  of  arctic  terns,  {Sterna  arctica^  were  most 
vociferous  and  courageous  in  defense  of  their  downy 
offspring  wherever  he  approached.  These  were  the 
only  birds  he  saw,  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  ra- 
ven, {Corvus  corax^  not  very  high  overhead,  whose 
sharp  and  yet  musically  bell-like  croak  came  startling 
upon  the  ear. 

Mr.  Snow,  in  his  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Prince 
Albert,  p.  162,  says,  (speaking  of  Melville  Bay,  at  the 
northern  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,)  "  Innumerable  quanti- 
ties of  birds,  especially  the  little  auk,  {Alca  alle^  and 
the  doveky,  {Colymhus  grylle,)  were  now  seen,  (Au- 
gust 6th,)  in  every  direction.  They  were  to  be  ob- 
served in  thousands,  on  the  wing  and  in  the  water, 
and  often  on  pieces  of  ice,  where  they  were  clustered 
together  so  thick  that  scores  might  have  been  shot  at  a 
time  by  two  or  three  fowling  pieces." 

In  passing  up  Lancaster  Sound  a  fortnight  later  sev- 
eral snoal  of  eider-ducks  and  large  quantities  of  otl>*r 
birds  were  also  seen. 


I 


^(1 1 


I 


273 


rROGREPS   OF   ARCTIC   DIRCOVFRY. 


A  BALLAD  OP  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 

"  The  ice  waa  here,  the  ice  was  there, 
Tlio  ico  was  all  around."  —  Colkriock. 

Whither  sail  you.  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 

Cried  a  whiiler  in  Baffin's  Bay  ; 
To  know  if  between  the  land  and  the  Pola^ 

I  may  find  a  broad  sea-way. 

I  charge  you  back,  Sir  John  Franklin, 

As  yoJ  would  live  and  thrive. 
For  between  the  land  and  the  frozen  P<^ 

No  man  may  sail  aliva 

But  lightly  laughed  the  stout  Sir  John, 

And  spoke  unto  his  men :  — 
Half  England  is  wrong,  if  he  is  right ; 

Bear  off  to  westward  then. 

O,  whither  sail  vou,  brave  Knglishraan  t 

Cried  the  little  Esquimaux. 
Between  your  land  and  the  polar  star 

My  goodly  vessels  go. 

Come  down,  if  you  would  journey  there, 

The  little  Inuian  said  ; 
And  change  your  cloth  for  fur  clothing, 

Your  vessel  for  a  sled. 

But  lightly  laughed  the  stout  Sir  John, 
And  the  crew  laughed  with  him  too  ; 

A  sailor  to  change  m>m  ship  to  sled, 
I  ween,  were  something  new ! 

All  through  the  long,  long  polar  day, 

The  vessels  westward  sped  ; 
And  wherever  the  sail  of  Sir  John  was  blown. 

The  ice  gave  way  and  fled. 

Gave  mj  with  many  a  hollow  groan. 

And  with  many  a  surly  roar ; 
But  it  murmured  and  threatened  on  evoiy  iidi;- 

And  dosed  where  he  sailed  beforei 

Ho  f  see  ye  not,  my  merry  men, 

The  broad  and  open  sea  ? 
Bethink  ye  what  the  whaler  said. 
Bethink  ye  of  the  little  Indian's  ded  t 

The  crew  laughed  out  in  glee. 

6ir  John,  Sir  John,  'tis  bitter  cold,  \ 

The  scud  drives  on  the  breese,  >^ 

fhe  ice  comes  looming  from  the  north, 
The  very  sunbeams  freeze. 

tright  summer  goes,  dark  winter  comet— 

We  cannot  rule  the  year ; 
.uit  long  ere  summer's  sun  goes  down. 

On  yonder  sea  we  '11  steen 


A    nAIJ.AP   OF  SIU   JOIIN   FRANKT.TN. 


270 


The  dripping  icebergs  dipped  and  roae. 

And  floundered  d«>iirn  the  gale  ; 
The  shipfl  were  Htaid,  the  yaras  were  manned. 

And  rurled  the  useless  sail 

The  Bumnior  's  gone,  the  winter 's  come, 

We  sail  not  on  yonder  sea ; 
Why  sail  we  not,  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 

— A  silent  man  was  he. 

The  winter  goes,  the  summer  comes,  ' 

We  cannot  rule  the  year ; 
I  ween,  we  cannot  rule  the  ways, 

Sir  John,  wherein  we  'd  steer. 

The  cruel  ice  came  floating  on, 

And  closed  benoath  the  lee. 
Till  the  thickening  waters  (lashed  no  more, 
'T  was  ice  around,  behind,  before  — 

My  God  I  thcra  is  no  sea  I 

Wliat  think  you  of  the  whaler  now  ! 

What  of  the  Esquimaux  V 
A  sled  were  better  than  a  ship. 

To  cruise  through  ico  and  snow. 

Down  sank  the  baleful  crimson  sun  ; 

The  northern -light  came  out, 
And  glared  u{X)n  the  ice-bound  ships, 

And  shook  its  spears  about 

The  snow  came  down,  storm  breeding  storm, 

And  on  the  decks  was  laid  ; 
Till  the  weary  sailor,  sick  at  heart. 

Sank  down  beside  his  spade. 

Sir  John,  the  night  is  black  and  long. 

The  hissing  wind  is  bleak  ; 
The  hard,  green  ice  is  strong  as  death  : — 

I  prithee,  captain,  speak. 

The  night  is  neither  bright  nor  short; 

The  singing  breeze  is  cold, 
The  ice  is  not  so  strong  as  hope, 

The  heart  of  man  is  bold  I 

What  hope  can  scale  this  icy  wall, 

High  o'er  the  main  flag-staff? 
Above  the  ridges  the  wolf  and  bear 
Look  down  with  a  patient,  settled  stare  — 

Look  down  on  us  and  laugh. 

The  summer  went,  the  winter  came— 

We  could  not  rule  the  year ; 
But  summer  will  melt  the  ice  again, 
And  open  a  path  to  the  sunny  main, 

Whereon  our  ships  shall  steer. 


i 

s 


280 


TROOKESS   OF   AUCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


The  winter  went,  the  summer  went. 

The  winter  caino  around  ; 
But  the  hard,  green  ice  was  strong  as  death, 
And  the  voice  of  hope  sank  to  a  breath, 

Yet  caught  at  every  sound. 

Hark  I  heard  you  not  the  sound  of  guns  t 

And  there,  and  tlicre  again  ? 
*T  is  some  uneasy  iceberg's  roar. 

As  he  turns  in  the  frozen  main. 

Hurra  t  hurra !  the  Esquimaux 

Across  the  ice-fields  steal : 
God  give  them  grace  for  their  chariiy  I 

Ye  pray  for  the  silly  seaL 

Sir  John,  where  are  the  English  fields^ 

And  where  tlie  English  trees. 
And  where  are  the  little  English  flowers, 

That  open  in  the  breeze  ? 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailors  I 

You  shall  see  the  fields  again. 
And  smell  the  scent  of  the  opening  flowery 

The  gi'ass,  and  the  waving  grain. 

Oh  I  when  shall  I  see  my  orphan  child  t 

My  Maiy  waits  for  me  ; 
Oh !  when  sliall  I  see  my  old  mother. 

And  pray  at  her  trembling  knee  ? 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailors  1 
Think  not  such  thoughts  again  I 

But  a  tear  froze  slowly  on  his  cheek  — 
He  thought  of  Lady  Jane. 

Ah  !  bitter,  bitter  grows  the  cold. 
The  ice  grows  more  and  more ; 

More  settl^  stare  the  wolf  and  bear,   • 
More  patient  than  before. 

Oh !  think  you,  good  Sir  John  Franklin, 
We  '11  ever  see  the  land  ?  , 

'T  was  cruel  to  send  us  here  to  stiure. 
Without  a  kelping  hand. 

'T  was  cruel,  Sir  John,  to  send  us  here, 

So  far  from  help  or  home ; 
To  starve  and  freeze  on  this  lonely  sea ; 
I  ween,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty 

Had  rather  send  than  come.  N 

Oh  I  whether  we  starve  to  death  alone. 

Or  sail  to  our  own  country. 
We  have  done  what  man  has  never  done  - 
The  open  ocean  danced  in  the  sun  — 

We  passed  the  Northern  Sea  I  • 


THE   SEARCniNO   EXPEDITIONS.  281 

The  Government  and  Private  Searciiino  Expeditions 
AFTER  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  following  is  a  complete  list  of  the  several  relief 
and  exploring  vessels  which  have  been  sent  out  during 
the  last  two  years  by  the  British  government,  by  private 
individuals,  and  by  the  American  nation : — 

Ships.  Men.         Commandors. 

1.  II.  M.  S.  Enterprise    -    -  68  Capt.  Collinsou. 

2.  H.  M.  S.  Investigator  -    -  65  Com.  M'Clure. 

3.  H.  M.  S.  Plover     -    -    -  52  Com.  Moore. 

4.  H.  M.  S.  Kesolutc  -    -    -  68  Capt.  li.  Austin. 

5.  II.  M.  S.  Assistance   -    -  60  Capt.  E..Ommaney. 
C.  II.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 

steamer,) 30    Lieut.  S.  Osbom. 

7.  II.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 

steamer,) 38    Lieut.  Cator. 

8.  The  Lady  Franklin    -    -   25    Mr.  Penny. 

9.  Tlie  Sophia,  (a  tender  to 

the  above,) 22    Mr.  Stewart. 

10.  United   States  brig  Ad- 
vance   20    Lieut.  Do  Haven. 

11.  United  States  vessel  Res- 

cue   18    Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin. 

12.  Felix  yacht Capt.  Sir  John  Koss. 

13.  Mary,  (tender  to  tbe  Felix.) 

M.  Tlie  Korth  Star,  Master  and  Commander  Saunders. 
15.  The  Prince  Albert      -    -    18    Com.  Forsyth. 

Of  these  vessels  the  Enterprise,  Investigator,  and 
Plover,  are  at  present  cngagccl  on  the  western  l)ran('h 
ctf  pcarch  through  Behring's  Straits.  The  rest  have  all 
j»iocecdcd  throu<^h  Baffin's  Bay  to  Lancaster  Sound,  and 
tlic  channels  branching  out  from  thence,  except  the  last 
two,  which  have  returned  home. 

Voyage   of  the  "Enterprise"  and   "Investigator" 
UNDER  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  1848-49. 

In  the  spring  of  1848,  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross 
^.iR  placed  in  command  of  a  well  found  and  fitted  ex- 
pedition, with  moans  and  advantages  of  unusual  extent, 


if 


282 


I'ltOGUESS    OF   ARCTIC   D18C0VKKV. 


and  with  an  object  that  could  not  fail  to  Btimulate  in 
the  highest  degree  the  energies  and  perseverance  of  all 
embarked  in  it.  With  the  ever  present  feeling,  too,  that 
the  lives  of  their  countrymen  and  brother  sailors  de- 
pended, (under  God's  good  providence,)  upon  their 
unflinching  exertions,  Captain  Ross  and  his  followers 
went  forth  in  the  confident  hope  that  their  efforts  might 
be  crowned  with  success. 

The  season  was  considerably  advanced  before  tLo 
whole  of  the  arrangements  were  completed,  for  it  was 
not  until  the  12th  of  Juno,  1848,  that  Captain  Ross  left 
England,  having  under  his  charge  the  Enterprise  and 
Investigator,  with  the  following  oflScers  and  crews :— - 

JEnterpriae,  540  tons. 

Captain  —  Sir  James  C.  Ross. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  J.  L.  M'Cluro,  F.  L.  McClintock, 

and  W.  II.  J.  Browne. 
Master  —  W.  S.  Couldery,  (actingj 
Surgeon  —  "W.  Robertson,  (/>)  M.  u, 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  H.  Matthias. 
Clerk  — Edward  Whitehead. 

Total  complement,  68. 

Investigator^  480  tons. 
Captain  — E.  J.  Bird. 
Lieutenants — M.  G.  H.  W.  Ross,  Frederick  Robinson 

and  J.  J.  Barnard. 
Master  —  W.  Tatham. 
Surgeon  —  Robert  Anderson. 
Mates  —  L.  J.  Moore  and  S.  G.  Creeswell. 
Second  Master — John  H.  Allard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  E.  Adams. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  James  D.  Gilpin. 
Total  complement,  67. 

The  ships  reached  the  Danish  settlement  of  Upper- 
navick,  situated  on  one  of  the  group  of  Woman's  Islands 
on  the  western  shore  of  Baffin's  Bay,  on  the  6th  of 
July.    Running  through  this  intricate  archipelago,  they 


ate  in 
of  all 
o,  that 
►re  de- 
their 
lowers 
might 

)re  tl.0 
it  was 
loss  left 
so  and 
cwB  :— 


Jlintock, 


)bin8on 


Upper- 
Islands 
6th  of 

Lgo,  they 


VOYAGE   OF   ENTEKI'ltlSli   AND    INVESTIGATOR.        283 

were  made  fast,  on  the  20tli,  to  an  iceberg  agi-ound  off 
Cape  Shackleton.  The  nhips  were  towed,  during  the 
next  few  days,  through  loose  streams  of  ice,  and  on  tho 
iiioming  of  tho  26th  were  off  the  three  islands  of  Baffin 
in  latitude  74°  N.  Calms  and  light  winds  so  greatly 
impeded  any  movement  in  tho  pack,  that  day  aftei 
day  passed  away  until  the  season  had  so  far  advanced 
as  to  preclude  every  hope  of  accomplishing  much,  if 
any  thing,  before  the  setting  in  of  winter. 

No  exertions, however,  were  spared  to  take  advantago 
of  every  opportunity  of  pushing  forward,  until,  on  the 
20th  of  August,  during  a  heavy  breeze  from  the  north- 
cast,  the  ships  under  all  sail  bored  through  a  pack  of  ice 
of  but  moderate  thickness,  but  having  among  it  heavy 
masses,  througli  which  it  was  necessary  to  drive  them  at 
all  hazards.  The  shocks  the  ships  sustained  during  this 
povere  trial  were  great,  but  fortunately  without  serious 
damage  to  them.  Getting  into  clear  water  in  lat.  75  i  N., 
.111(1  long.  68°  W.,  on  the  23d  the  ships  stood  in  to 
Pond's  fiay,  but  no  traces  of  Esquimaux  or  other  human 
hi'ings  were  discovered^  although  signals  were  made  and 
guns  fired  at  i*epeated  intervfis.  The  ships  were  kept 
dose  to  the  land,  and  a  rigid  examination  made  of  tho 
coast  to  the  northward,  so  that  neither  people  nor  boats 
could  have  passed  without  being  i,ecn.  On  the  2Gth 
the  ships  arrived  off  Possession  J:=  m %  and  a  party  was 
sent  on  shore  to  search  for  any  tracea  of  the  expedition 
liaviug  touched  at  this  general  point  of  rendezvous. 
Nothing  was  found  but  trie  paper  left  there  recording 
the  visit  of  Sir  Edward  Parry,  on  tho  very  day  (August 
oOtli)  in  1819.  From  this  point  the  examination  of  the 
f'oast  was  continued  with  equal  care.  On  the  1st  of 
September  they  arrived  off  Cape  York,  and  a  boat's 
crew  was  sent  on  shore,  to  fix  a  conspicuous  mark,  and 
leave  information  for  the  guidance  of  any  future  party 
that  might  touch  here. 

I  shall  now  take  up  the  narrative  in  Sir  James  Ross's 
own  words  — "  We  stood  over  toward  northeast  capo 
until  we  came  in  with  the  edge  of  a  pack,  too  dense  for 
us  to  penetrate,  lying  between  us  and  Leopold  Island, 


5iS4 


I'lKXiKKHS   OF    AUCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


about  fourteen  miles  broad  ;  wo  therefore  coa8te<l  tiio 
north  Hhorc  of  Barrow's  Strait,  to  seek  a  harbor  furtlior 
to  the  westward,  and  to  examine  the  numerous  inlets  of 
that  shore.  Maxwell  Bay,  and  several  smaller  indcntii- 
tions,  were  thoroughly  explored,  and,  although  wo  got 
near  tho  entrance  of  Wclhngton  Channel,  the  firm  bar- 
rier of  ice  which  stretched  across  it,  and  which  had  not 
broken  away  this  season,  convinced  us  all  was  imprac- 
ticable in  that  direction.  Wo  now  stood  to  tho  south- 
west to  seek  for  a  harbor  near  Capo  Rennell,  but  found 
a  heavy  body  of  ice  extending  from  tho  west  of  Corn- 
wallis  Island  in  a  compact  mass  to  Leopold  Island. 
Coasting  along  tho  pack  during  stormv  and  foggy 
weather,  wo  had  difhculty  in  keeping  the  ships  fi'co 
during  the  nights,  for  I  believe  so  great  a  quantity  of  ico 
was  never  before  seen  in  Barrow's  Strait  at  this  period 
of  the  season." 

Fortunately,  after  some  days  of  anxious  and  arduous 
work,  tho  ships  were  got  through  tho  pack,  and  secured 
in  tho  harbor  of  Port  Leopold  on  tho  11th  of  September. 
No  situation  could  bo  better  adaj^ted  for  the  purposo 
than  this  locality  ;  being  at  tho  junction  of  tne  four 
great  channels  of  Barrow's  Strait,  Lancaster  Sound, 
Brinco  Regent  Inlet,  and  "Wellington  Channel,  it  was 
hardly  possible  for  any  party,  after  abandoning  their 
bhips,  to  pass  along  tho  shores  of  any  of  those  illk't^^, 
without  finding  indications  of  the  proximity  of  thoso 
6hii)S. 

The  night  following  tho  very  day  of  tho  ships'  gettini,' 
in,  the  main  pack  closed  with  the  land,  and  completely 
sealed  the  month  of  the  harbor.  The  long  winter  wa> 
passed  in  exploring  and  surveying  journeys  along  tho 
coasts  in  all  directions.  During  the  winter  as  jnany  a^ 
fifty  white  foxes  wore  taken  alive,  in  traps  made  of 
empty  casks  set  for  tho  pui'pose.  As  it  was  well  known 
how  large  a  tract  of  country  these  animals  traverse  in 
search  of  food,  copper  collars,  (upon  which  a  notice  of 
the  position  of  the  ships  and  depots  of  provisions  was 
engraved,)  were  clinched  round  their  necks,,  and  they 
were  then  set  free,  in  the  hope  that  some  of  these  four- 


VOYAGE   OF   ENTEUPRISE    AND    INVESTIQATOR. 


285 


looied  messengers  might  be  the  means  of  conveying  the 
intelligence  to  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  as  tlie  crews  of 


examining  and  thoroughly  exploring  all  the  inlets  and 
smaller  indentations  ot  the  northern  and  western  coasts 
of  Boothia  peninsula,  in  which  any  ships  might  havo 
found  shelter. 

From  the  high  land  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cape 
Bunny,  Capt.  Ross  obtained  a  verv  extensive  v'ew,  and 
observed  that  the  whole  space  between  it  and  Cape 
Walker  to  the  west,  and  Wellington  Strait  to  the  north, 
was  occupied  by  very  heavy  hummocky  ice. 

"  The  examination  of  the  coast,"  Sir  James  Ross  tells 
us,  "  was  pursued  until  the  5th  of  June,  when,  having 
consumed  more  than  half  our  provisions,  and  the  strength 
of  the  party  being  much  reduced,  I  was  reluctantly 
compelled  to  abandon  further  operations,  as  it  was, 
moreover,  necessary  to  give  the  men  a  day  of  rest. 
But  that  the  time  might  not  wholly  bo  lost,  I  proceeded 
with  two  hands  to  the  extreme  south  point  in  sight  from 
our  encampment,  distant  about  eight  or  nine  miles." 

This  extreme  point  is  situate  in  lat.  72"^  38'  N.,  and 
lung.  95°  40'  W.,  and  is  the  west  face  of  a  small  high 
peninsula.  The  state  of  the  atmosphere  bein^  at  the 
time  peculiarly  favorable  for  distinctness  of  vision,  land 
of  any  great  elevation  might  have  been  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance ot  100  miles.  The  nighest  cape  of  the  coast  was 
not  more  than  fifty  miles  distant,  bearing  nearly  duo 
South.  A  very  narrow  isthmus  was  found  to  separate 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  from  the  western  sea  at  Crcsswell 
and  Brentford  Bays.  The  ice  in  this  quarter  proved  to 
be  eight  feet  thick.  A  large  cairn  of  stones  was  erected, 
and  on  the  6th  of  June,  the  return  journey  was  com- 
menced. After  encountering  a  variety  of  difficulties 
they  reached  the  ships  on  the  23d,  so  completely  worn 
out  by  fatigue,  that  every  man  was,  from  some  cause  or 
other,  in  the  doctor's  hands  for  two  or  three  weeks. 
During  their  absence,  Mr.  Matthias,  the  assistant-surgeon 

13 


as6 


rU<JUU]£&B   OV   AKCriC   DI6CUVKKY. 


of  the  Enton^riflo,  had  died  of  consnmption.  Several  of 
the  crews  ot  botli  shins  were  in  ii  declining  state,  and 
the  jgeneral  report  of  nealth  was  hy  no  means  cheering. 
While  Captain  Iloss  was  away,  Commander  Bird 
had  dispatched  other  surveying  parties  in  different  di- 
rections. One,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Har- 
nard,  to  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow^s  Strait,  crossing 
the  ice  to  Cape  Hind ;  a  second,  commanded  by  Lieu- 
tenant Browne,  to  the  eastern  shore  of  liegent  Lilet ; 
and  a  third  party  of  six  men,  conducted  by  Lieutenant 
Robinson,  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet.  The 
latter  officer  extended  his  examination  of  the  coast  uh 
far  as  Cresswell  Bay,  several  miles  to  the  southward 
of  Fury  Beach.  He  found  the  house  still  standing  in 
whick  Sir  John  Ross  passed  the  winters  vf  1 832-313, 
together  with  a  quantitv  of  the  stores  and  provisions 
of  the  Fury,  lost  there  m  1827.  On  opening  some  of 
the  packages  containing  flour,  sugar  and  peas,  they 
were  all  found  to  be  in  excellent  preservation,  and  the 

{>re8erved  soup  as  good  as  when  manufactnrod.  The 
abors  of  these  searching  parties  were,  however,  of 
comparatively  short  duration,  as  they  all  suffered  from 
snow-blindness,  sprained  ankles,  and  debility. 

As  it  was  now  out  too  evident,  from  no  traces  of  tlio 
absent  expedition  having  been  met  with  by  any  of 
these  parties,  that  the  ships  could  not  have  been  de- 
tained anywhere  in  this  part  of  the  arctic  regions, 
Captain  Ross  considered  it  most  desirable  to  pusn  for- 
ward to  the  westward  as  soon  as  his  ships  should  be  lib- 
erated. His  chief  hopes  now  centered  in  the  efforts  of 
Sir  John  Richardson^s  party;  but  he  felt  persuaded 
that  Sir  John  Franklin ^s  ships  must  have  penetrated 
so  far  beyond  Melville  Island  as  to  induce  him  to  prefer 
making  for  the  continent  of  America  rather  than  seek- 
ing assistance  from  the  whale  ships  in  Bailings  Bay. 
The  crews,  weakened  by  incessant  exertion,  were  now 
in  a  very  unfit  state  to  undertake  the  heavy  labor 
which  they  had  yet  to  accomplish,  but  all  hands  that 
were  able  were  set  to  work  with  saws  to  cut  a  channel 
toward  the  point  of  the  harbor,  a  distance  of  vather 


VOYAGE  OF   ENTERrRISE   AUD   INVICSTIOATOR.       287 

more  than  two  miles,  and  on  the  28th  of  Au^iiut  tlio 
shins  got  clear,  l^et'oro  quitting  tlto  port,  a  house  wua 
built  of  the  spare  B|>ar8  ot  both  stiips,  and  covered  with 
such  of  the  housing  cloths  ofi  couhl  bo  disi)ensed  with. 
Twelve  months^  provisions,  fuel,  and  other  :  ecesHaries 
were  also  left  behind,  together  with  the  steam  launch 
belonging  to  the  Investigator,  whicli,  having  been  pur- 
posely lengthened  seven  feet,  now  formed  a  fine  vtssel, 
capable  oi  conveving  the  whole  of  Sir  John  Franklin'd 
party  to  the  whale  ships,  if  necessary. 

The  Investigator  and  Enterprise  now  ])roceeded 
toward  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  for  the 
purpose  of  examining  Wellington  Channel;  and,  if  nos- 
sible,  penetrating  as  far  as  Melville  Island,  but  wnen 
about  twelve  mues  from  the  shore,  the  ships  came  to 
the  fixed  land-ice,  and  found  it  impossible  to  proceed. 

On  the  1st  of  September  a  strong  wind  suddenly 
irising,  brought  the  loose  pack,  through  which  they 
had  been  struggling,  do^vn  upon  the  ships,  which  were 
closely  beset.  At  times,  during  two  or  three  days, 
they  sustained  severe  pressure,  and  ridges  of  hum- 
mocks were  thrown  up  all  around ;  but  after  that  time 
the  temperature  falling  to  near  zero,  it  formed  the 
whole  body  of  ice  into  one  solid  mass. 

The  remainder  of  the  narrative,  as  related  by  the 
Commander  of  the  expedition  in  his  official  dispatch, 
will  not  bear  abridgment. 

"  We  were  so  circumstanced  that  for  some  days  w^e 
could  not  unship  the  rudder,  and  when,  by  the  labori- 
ous operation  oi  sawing  and  removing  the  hummocks 
from  under  the  stem,  we  were  able  to  do  so,  we  found 
it  twisted  and  damaged ;  and  the  ship  was  so  much 
strained,  as  to  increase  the  leakage  from  three  inchea 
in  a  fortnight  to  fourteen  inches  daily.  The  ice  was 
stationary  for  a  few  days ;  the  pressure  had  so  folded 
the  lighter  pieces  over  each  other  and  they  were  so 
interlaced,  as  to  form  one  entire  sheet,  extending  from 
shore  to  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and  as  far  to  the  east 
and  west  as  the  eye  could  discern  from  the  mast-head, 
while  the  extreme  severity  of  the  temperature  bad 


lU 


If 


i 


■ 


288 


PKOORESS  OF  ABCrriO  DISCOVEltr. 


cemented  the  whole  so  firmly  together  that  it  appeared 
highly  improbable  that  it  could  break  up  agam  this 
season.  In  the  space  which  had  been  cleared  away 
for  unshipping  the  rudder,  the  newly-formed  ice  was 
fifteen  inches  thick,  and  in  some  places  along  the  ship's 
Bide  the  thirteen-feet  screws  were  too  short  to  work. 
We  had  now  fally  made  up  our  minds  that  the  ships 
were  fixed  for  the  winter,  and  dismal  as  the  prospect 
appeared,  it  was  far  preferable  to  being  carried  along 
the  west  co.&st  of  Baffin's  Bay,  where  the  grounded 
bergs  are  in  such  numbers  upon  the  shallow  banks  off 
that  shore,  as  to  render  it  next  to  impossible  for  phips 
involved  in  a  pack  to  escape  destruction.  It  was, 
therefore,  with  a  mixture  of  hope  and  anxiety  that,  on 
the  wind  shifting  to  the  westward,  we  perceived  the 
whole  body  of  ice  begin  to  drive  to  the  eastward,  at  the 
rate  of  eight  to  ten  miles  daily.    Every  effort  on  our 

Eart  was  totally  unavailing,  for  no  human  power  could 
ave  moved  either  of  the  ships  a  single  inch ;  they  were 
thus  completely  taken  out  of  our  own  hands,  and  in  the 
center  of  a  field  of  ice  more  than  fifty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, were  carried  along  the  southern  shore  of 
Lancaster  Sound. 

"  After  passing  its  entrance,  the  ice  drifted  in  a  more 
southerly  direction ,  along  the  western  shore  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  until  we  were  abreast  of  Pond's  Bay,  to  the  south- 
,  ward  of  which  we  observed  a  great  number  of  icebergs 
stretching  across  our  path,  and  presenting  the  fearful 
prospect  of  our  worst  anticipations.  But  when  least 
expected  by  us,  our  release  was  almost  miraculously 
brought  about.  The  great  field  of  ice  was  rent  into 
innumerable  fragments,  as  if  by  some  unseen  power." 
By  energetic  exertion,  warping,  and  sailing,  the  ships 
got  clear  of  the  pack,  and  reached  an  open  space  of 
water  on  the  25th  of  September. 

"  It  is  impossible,"  says  Captain  Ross,  in  his  con 
eluding  observations,  "  to  convey  any  idea  of  the  sen 
sation  we  experienced  whfen  we  found  ourselves  once 
more  at  liberty,  while  many  a  grateful  heart  poured 
forth  its  praises  and  thanksgivings  to  Almighty  God 
for  this  unlooked  for  deliverance.'* 


VOYAGE  OF   ENTERPRISE  AND   INVESTIOATOR.       289 

"The  advance  of  winter  had  now  closed  all  the  har- 
bors against  us ;  and  as  it  was  impossible  to  penetrate 
to  the  westward  through  the  pack  from  which  we  had 
just  been  liberated,  I  made  the  signal  to  the  Investi- 
gator of  my  intention  to  return  to  England." 

After  a  favorable  passage,  the  ships  arrived  home 
early  in  November,  Captain  Sir  J.  C.  Ross  reporting 
himself  at  the  Admiralty  on  the  6th  of  November. 

As  this  is  the  last  arctic  voyage  of  Sir  James  C.  Ross, 
it  is  a  fitting  place  for  some  record  of- his  arduous 
services. 

Captain  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross  entered  the  navy  in 
1812,  and  sei-ved  as  volunteer  of  the  first  class,  mid- 
shipman and  mate  until  1817,  with  his  uncle  Com- 
mander Ross.  In  1818  he  was  appointed  Admiralty 
midshipman  in  the  Isabella,  on  Commander  Ross's  first 
voyage  of  discovery  to  the  arctic  seas.  He  was  then 
midshipman  in  the  two  following  years  with  Captain 
Parry,  in  the  Hecla  ;  followed  him  again  in  the  Furv 
in  his  second  voyage,  and  was  promoted  on  the  26tn 
of  December,  1822.  In  1824  and  1825,  he  was  lieu- 
tenant in  the  Fury,  under  Captain  Hoppner,  on  Parry's 
third  voyage.  In  1827,  he  was  appointed  first  lieuten- 
ant of  the  Hecla,  under  Parry,  ana  accompanied  him 
in  comiiiand  of  the  second  boat  in  his  attempt  to  reach 
the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  he  received  nis  promo- 
tion to  the  rank  of  commander,  the  8th  of  November, 
1827.  From  1829  to  1833,  he  was  employed  with  his 
uncle  as  second  in  command  in  the  Victory  on  the  pri- 
vate expedition  sent  out  by  Mr.  Felix  Booth.  Diunng 
this  period  he  planted,  on  the  1st  of  June,  1831,  the 
British  flag  on  tne  North  Magnetic  Pole.  For  this,  on 
his  return,  he  was  presented  by  the  Herald's  College 
with  an  addition  to  nis  family  arms  of  an  especial  crest, 
representing  a  flag-staff  erect  on  a  rock,  with  the  union 
jack  hoisted  thereon,  inscribed  with  the  date, "  1  June, 
1831."  On  the  23d  of  October,  1834,  he  was  promoted 
to  the  rank  of  Captain,  and  in  the  following  year  em- 
ployed in  making  magnetic  observations,  preparatory 
to  the  general  magnetic  survey  of  England.     In  the 


290 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


close  of  1836,  it  having  been  represented  to  the  Ad- 
miralty, from  Hull,  that  eleven  wliale  ships,  having  on 
board  600  men,  were  left  in  the  ice  in  bavis'  Strait, 
and  in  imminent  danger  of  perishing,  unless  relief  were 
forwarded  to  them,  the  Lords  Commissioners  resolved 
upon  sending  out  a  ship  to  search  for  them.  Captain 
Boss,  with  that  promptitude  and  humanity  which  has 
always  characterized  him,  volunteered  to  go  out  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  and  the  Lieutenants,  F.  K.  M.  Crozier, 
Inman,  and  Ommaney,  with  the  three  mates,  Jesse, 
Buchan,  and  John  Smith,  and  Mr.  Hallett,  clerk  in 
charge,  joined  him.  They  sailed  from  England  on  the 
21st  of  December,  and  on  arriving  in  Davis'  Strait,  after 
a  stormy  passage,  found  that  nine  of  the  missing  ships 
were  by  that  time  in  England,  that  the  tenth  was  re- 
leased on  her  passage,  and  that  the  other  was  in  all 
probability  lost,  as  some  of  her  water-casks  had  been 
picked  up  at  sea.  From  1837  to  1838,  Captain  Boss 
was  employed  in  determining  the  variation  of  the  com- 
pass on  all  parts  of  the  coast  of  Great  Britain ;  and 
from  1839  to  1843,  as  Captain  of  the  Erebus,  in  com- 
mand of  the  antarctic  expedition.  In  1841,  he  was 
presented  with  the  founder's  medal  of  the  Koyal  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  London,  for  his  discoveries  toward 
the  South  Pole ;  and  he  has  also  received  the  gold 
medal  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris.  On  the 
13th  of  March,  1844,ne  received  the  honor  of  knight- 
hood from  the  Queen,  and  in  June  of  the  same  year 
the  University  of  Oxford  bestowed  on  him  their  honor- 
ary degree  of  D.  C.  L.  In  1848,  he  went  out,  as  we 
have  just  seen,  in  the  Enterprise,  in  Command  of  one 
of  the  searching  expeditions  sent  to  seek  for  Franklin. 

VoTAOB  OP  H.  M.  S.  "  North  Stab." 

The  North  Star,  of  600  tons,  was  fitted  out  in  the 
spring  of  1849,  tmder  the  command  of  Mr.  J.  Saunders, 
who  had  been  acting  master  with  Captain  Back,  in  the 
Terror,  in  her  perilonB  voyage  to  the  Frozen  Strait,  in 
1336. 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  NORTH  STAB. 


291 


The  following  are  the  officers  of  the  ships  : — 

Master  Commanding — J.  Saunders. 

Second   Masters — John  Way,  M.  Korman,  H.  B. 

Gawler. 
Acting  Ice-masters  —  J.  Leach,  and  G.  Sabestor. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  James  Rae,  M.  D. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Jasper  Butter. 

The  North  Star  sailed  from  the  river  Thames,  on  the 
26th  of  May,  1849,  freighted  with  provisions  for  the 
missing  expedition,  and  with  orders  and  supplies  for 
the  Enterprise  and  Investigator. 

The  following  is  one  of  the  early  dispatches  from  the 
commander : — 

"  To  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  H.  M.  8.  North  Star,  July  19, 1849, 
lat.WZ' N'.,long.b%'=  iff  TT. 

"Sir, — I  addressed  a  letter  to  their  Lordships  on  the 
18th  ult.,  when  in  lat.  73°  30'  N.,  and  long.  56°  63'  W., 
detailing  the  particulars  of  my  proceedings  up  to  that 
date,  which  letter  was  sent  by  a  boat  from  the  Lady 
Jane,  whaler,  which  vessel  was  wrecked,  and  those  boats 
were  proceeding  to  the  Danish  settlements.  Since  then, 
t  regret  to  state,  our  progress  has  been  almost  entirely 
itopped,  owing  to  the  ice  being  so  placed  across  Md- 
ville  Bay  as  to  render  it  perfectly  impassable. 

"  On  the  6th  inst.,  finding  it  impossible  to  make  any 
progress,  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  run  as  far  S.  as  72  , 
examining  the  pack  as  we  went  along.  At  72°  22'  the 
pack  appeared  slacker,  and  we  entered  it,  and,  after 
proceeding  about  twelve  miles,  found  ourselves  com- 
pletely stopped  by  large  floes  of  ice.  We  accordingly 
put  back,  and  steered  again  lor  the  northward. 

"  Having  this  day  reached  the  latitude  of  74°  3'  N., 
and  long.  59°  40'  W.,  the  ice  appeared  more  open,  and 
we  stood  in  toward  the  land,  when  we  observed  two 
boats  approaching,  and  which  afterward,  on  coming 
ilongside,  were  found  to  belong  to  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
A^haler,  which  vessel  was  nipped  by  the  ice  on  the  12th 
nst.,  in  Melville  Bay. 


if  f\ 


1 '. 


li 


292 


rROGRESa   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


"  By  the  captain  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  I  forward 
this  letter  to  their  Lordships,  he  intending  to  proceed 
in  his  boats  to  the  Danish  settlements. 
"  1  have  the  honor  to  be,  &c. 

"  J.  Saunders,  Master  and  Commander. 
"  P.  S. —  Crew  all  well  on  board." 

On  the  29th  of  July,  having  reached  the  vicinity  of 
the  Devil's  Thumb  and  Melville  Bay,  in  the  northerly 
part  of  Baffin's  Bay,  she  was  beset  in  an  ice-field,  with 
which '  she  drifted  helplessly  about  as  the  tide  or  wind 
impelled  her,  until  the  16th  of  August,  when,  a  slight 
opening  in  the  ice  appearing,  an  effort  was  made  to 
heave  tnrough  into  clear  water.  This  proved  labor  in 
vain,  and  no  further  move  was  made  until  the  21st  of 
September,  except  as  she  drifted  in  the  ice  floe  in  which 
ehe  was  fixed.  On  the  day  last  named  she  was  driving 
before  a  hard  ^ale  from  the  S.  S.  W.,  directly  down  upon 
an  enormous  iceberg  in  Melville  Sound,  upon  which  if 
she  had  struck  in  the  then  prevailing  weather,  her  total 
destruction  would  have  been  inevitable.  Providen- 
tially a  comer  of  the  ice-field  in  which  she  was  being 
carried  furiously  along  came  into  violent  collision  with 
the  berg,  a  large  section  was  carried  away,  and  she 
escaped.  On  the  29th  of  September,  1849,  having  been 
sixty-two  days  in  the  ice,  she  took  up  her  winter  quar- 
ters in  North  Star  Bay,  so  called  after  herself,  a  small 
bay  in  "Wolstenholme  Sound,  lying  in  76°  33'  north  lat- 
itude, and  68°  56'  west  longitude  ;  the  farthest  point  to 
the  north  at  which  a  Britisn  ship  ever  wintered.  The 
ship  was  fixed  about  half  a  mile  fi*om  the  shore,  and 
made  snug  for  the  winter,  sails  were  unbent,  the  masts 
struck,  and  the  ship  housed  over  and  made  as  warm 
and  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  permit.  The 
ice  soon  after  took  across  the  Sound,  so  that  the  crew 
could  have  walked  on  shore.  The  cold  was  intense  ; 
but  two  or  three  stoves  warmed  the  ship,  and  the  crews 
were  cheered  up  and  encouraged  with  all  sorts  of  games 
and  amusements,  occasionally  visiting  the  shore  for  the 

{mrpose  of  skylarking.    There' was,  unfortunately,  Vmt 
ittle  game  to  shoot.     Former  accounts  gave  this  pl>  ^» 


VOYAP^   OF   TlIE   NOUTII   STAR. 


893 


a  high  character  for  deer  and  other  animals  ;  but  the 
crew  of  the  North  Star  never  saw  a  single  head  of  deer, 
and  other  animals  were  scarce  ;  about  fifty  hares  were 
killed.  Foxes  were  numerous,  and  a  number  shot,  but 
none  taken  alive.  A  few  Esquimaux  families  occasion- 
ally visited  the  ship,  and  one  poor  man  was  brought  on 
board  with  his  feet  so  frozen  that  they  dropped.  He 
was  placed  under  the  care  of  the  assistant-surgeon,  Dr. 
Eae,  who  paid  him  much  attention,  and  his  legs  were 
nearlv  cured  ;  but  he  died  from  a  pulmonary  disorder 
after  naving  been  on  board  some  six  weeks.  The  North 
Star  was  not  able  to  leave  this  retreat  until  the  Ist  of 
August,  1850,  and  got  into  clear  water  oh  the  third  of 
that  month.  On  tne  21st  of  August,  she  spoke  the 
Lady  Franklin,  Captain  Penny,  and  her  consort  the 
Sophia,  and  the  following  day  the  Felix,  Sir  John  Koss, 
in  Lancaster  Sound.  Captain  Peunv  reported  that  he 
had  left  Captain  Austin  all  well  on  the  17th  of  August 
On  the  23d  of  August,  the  North  Star  began  landing 
the  provisions  she  had  carried  out  in  Navy  Board  Li- 
let ;  73°  W  N.  latitude,  80°  56'  W.  longitude.  She 
remained  five  days  there,  and  was  occupied  four  and  a 
half  in  landing  the  stores,  ".^'hich  were  deposited  in  a 
ravine  a  short  distance  from  the  beach  of  Supply  Bay, 
the  bight  in  Navy  Board  Lilet,  which  the  commander 
of  the  North  Star  so  named.  The  position  of  the  stores 
was  indicated  by  a  flag-staff,  with  a  black  ball,  and  a 
letter  placed  beneath  a  cairn  of  stones.  They  had  pre- 
viously tried  to  deposit  the  stores  at  Port  Bowen,  and 
Port  N  eale,  but  were  prevented  approaching  them  by 
the  ice.  On  the  30th  of  August,  the  North  Star  saw 
and  spoke  the  schooner  Prince  Albert,  Commander 
Forsyth,  in  Possession  Bay.  On  the  3l8t,  a  boat  was 
sent  to  the  Prince  Albert,  when  Commander  Forsyth 
came  on  board  and  reported  that  he  had  also  been  to 
Port  Neale,  but  had  not  been  able  to  enter  for  the  ice, 
and  had  found  one  of  the  American  ships  sent  out  to 
search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  ashore  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
that  he  had  tendered  assistance,  which  had  been  de^ 
clined  by  the  American  commander,  as,  his  ship  being 

13* 


294 


I'ROORESS  OF  ARCnC  DISCOVERY. 


iininjurecl,  ho  believed  his  own  crew  competent  to  get 
her  off.  Commander  Forsyth  reported  that  Captain 
Austin  had  proceeded  to  tond's  JSay  in  the  Intrepid, 
tender  to  the  Assistance,  to  land  letters.  The  North 
Star  went  on  to  Pond's  Bay,  but  could  not  find  any  in- 
dication of  Captain  Austin's  having  been  there.  It  is 
conjectured  that  he  had  passed  the  appointed  spot  in  a 
fog.  The  North  Star's  people  suffered  much  from  the 
intense  cold,  but  only  lost  five  hands  during  her  peril- 
ous trip  and  arctic  winter  quarters.  She  left  there  on 
September  9th,  and  reached  Spithead  on  the  28th  of 
September,  1850.  Since  his  return  Mr.  Saunders  has 
been  appointed  Master  Attendant  of  the  Dock-yard  at 
Malta.  The  Admiralty  have  received  dispatches  from 
Captain  Sir  J.  Boss,  Captain  Penny,  and  Captain  Om- 
maney.  Captain  Ommaney,  in  the  Assistance,  dating 
from  ofl;'  Lancaster  Sound,  latitude  75°  46'  N.,  longi- 
tude 75°  49'  "W.,  states  that  some  Esquimaux  had  de- 
scribed to  him  a  ship  being  hauled  in  during  the  last 
winter,  and,  on  going  to  the  spot,  he  found,  from  some 
papers  left,  that  it  was  the  North  Star.  He  was  pro- 
ceeding to  search  in  Lancaster  Sound.  Captain  Penny, 
of  the  Lady  Franklin,  writing  from  Lancaster  Sound, 
August  21,  states,  that  having  heard  on  the  18th  from 
Captain  Austin  of  a  report  from  the  Esquimaux,  that 
Sir  John  Franklin's  ships  had  been  lost  forty  miles 
north,  and  the  crews  murdered,  he  went  with  an  inter- 
preter, but  could  find  no  evidence  for  the  rumor,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  story  had  been 
founded  on  the  North  Star's  wintering  there.  He  con- 
sidered that  his  interpreter,  M.  Petersen,  had  done  much 
food  by  exposing  the  fallacy  of  the  story  of  Sir  J 
Ross's  Esqmmaux. 

Her  Majesty's  Smps  "Enterprise"  and  "Investiga 
tor"  under  Captain  Collinson.  n 

The  Enterprise  and  Investigator  were  fitted  out  agair 
immediately  on  their  return  home,  and  placed  undei 
the  charge  of  Captain  B.  Collinson,  C.  B.,  with  the  fol 


SECOND  TKir  OF  ENTERPRISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR. 


pro- 

enny, 

ound, 

from 

that 
miles 
inter- 

and 
been 

con- 
mucb 
>ir  J 


5TIGA 


295 


I  wing  officers  attached,  to  proceed  to  Behring's  Strait. 
U)  resume  the  search  in  that  direction  : — 

Enterpris',^ 340  tons. 

Captain — K.  Collinson. 

Lieutenants  —  G.  A.  Phayre,*  J.  J.  Barnard,*  and 

C.  T.  Jago. 
Master — K.  T.  G.  Legg. 
Second  Master — Francis  Skead. 
Mate  — M.T.  Parks. 
Surgeon  —  Kobert  Anderson.* 
Assistant-Surgeon — Edward  Adams.*  ■ 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Edward  Whitehead.* 
Total  complement,  66. 

Investigator, 

Commander — E.  J.  M'Clure.* 
Lieutenants — "W".  H.  Haswell  and  S.  G.  Cresswell.* 
Mates  —  H.  H.  Saintsburjr  and  R.  J.  Wyniatt. 
Second  Master — Stephen  Court.* 
Surgeon  —  Alexander  Armstrong,  M.  D. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Hy.  Piers. 
Ckrk  in  Charge  —  Joseph  C.  Paine. 
Total  complement,  66. 

Those  officers  marked  with  a  star  had  been  with  the 
Bhips  in  their  last  voyage. 

These  vessels  sailed  from  Plymouth  on  the  20th  of 
January,  1850.  A  Mr.  Miortsching,  a  Moravian  mis- 
sionary, was  appointed  to  the  Enterprise,  as  interpreter. 
Tliis  gentleman  is  in  the  prime  of  life,  of  robust  health, 
inured,  by  a  service  of  nve  years  in  Labrador,  to  tho 
hardships  and  privations  of  the  arctic  regions,  and  suffi- 
cientihr  acquainted  with  the  language  and  manners  of 
the  Esquimaux  to  be  able  to  hold  friendly  and  unre- 
served intercourse  with  them. 

The  Investigator  and  the  Enterprise  were  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands  on  June  29th.  Captain  Collinson 
purposed  sailing  in  a  few  days,  and  expected  to  reach 
the  ice  about  t£e  8ti  of  July.     Prior  to  his  arrival, 


296 


PROGRESS  OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


numerous  wlmlers  had  started  for  the  Strait,  one  in  par- 
ticular, under  the  command  of  a  Captain  Roys,  witli 
the  expressed  intention  of  endeavoring  to  earn  the 
Frankhn  reward. 

These  vessels  are  intended  to  penetrate,  if  possible,  to 
the  western  extremity  of  Melville  Island,  there  to  winter, 
and  make  further  search,  in  the  spring  of  1851,  for  tho 
crews  of  the  lost  ships. 

In  a  letter  from  Captain  Collinson  to  Commander  Mc 
Clure,  dated  Oahu,  June  29th,  1860,  with  a  sight  of 
which  I  have  been  favored  at  the  Admiralty,  he  thus 
describes  his  intentions — "I  intend  making  the  pack 
close  to  the  American  shore,  and  availing  myself  of  the 
first  favorable  openins  west  of  the  coast  stream ;  pressing 
forward  toward  Melville  Island.  In  the  event  of  meet- 
ing land,  it  is  most  probable  that  I  would  pursue  the 
southern  shore." 

The  latest  letter  received  from  Commander  McClure 
IS  dated  Kotzebue  Sound,  July  27th,  1850,  and  the 
following  is  an  extract : — 

"  You  will  be  glad  to  learn  that  to  this  we  have  been 
highly  favored,  carrying  a  fair  wind  from  Whoa,  which 
place  we  left  on  the  2th.  We  passed  the  Aleutian 
Islands  on  the  20th,  in  172°  30'  W.,  and  got  fairly 
through  the  Straits  to-day,  and  we  consider  we  are  upon 
our  ground ;  the  only  detriment  has  been  very  dense 
fogs,  which  have  rendered  the  navigation  of  the  islands 
exceedingly  nervous  work ;  but  as  the  object  to  be 
achieved  is  of  so  important  a  nature,  all  hazards  must 
be  run  to  carry  out  the  intentions  of  those  at  home, 
which  have  very  fortunately  terminated  without  acci- 
dent. We  are  now  making  the  most  of  our  wind,  and 
we  hope  to  meet  an  American  whaler,  of  which  I  be- 
lieve tnere  are  a  great  number  fishing  this  season,  and 
to  whom  we  must  intrust  our  last  dispatches.  Sincerely 
do  I  trust  that,  ere  we  return,  some  tidings  of  poor  Sir 
John  and  his  noble  companions  may  reward  our  search ; 
which  will  render  the  long-sought  for  passage,  should 
it  be  our  fortune  to  make  it,  one  of  the  most  memorable 
in  the  annals  of  our  times,  and  relieve  many  an  anxious 
breast " 


SECOND  TRIP   OF   ENTERPRISE   AND  INVESTIOATOIl.  297 

Dispatches  have  been  received  at  the  Admiralty  from 
«>«ptain  Kellet,  C.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Herald, 
dated  at  sea,  the  14th  of  October,  1850,  on  his  return 
from  Behrin^'s  Strait.  The  Herald  had  communicated 
with  her  Majesty's  ship  Plover,  on  the  10th  of  July,  at 
Chamisso  Island,  where  the  Plover  had  passed  the  pre- 
ceding winter.  The  two  ships  proceeded  to  the  north- 
ward until  they  sighted  the  pack-ice,  when  the  Herald 
returned  to  Cape  Lisburne,  in  quest  of  Captain  CoUin- 
Bon's  expedition,  and  on  the  31st  fell  in  with  her  Maj- 
esty's ship  Investigator,  which  had  made  a  surprisingly 
short  passage  of  twenty-six  days  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  The  Herald  remained  cruising  off  Cape  Lis- 
burne, and  again  fell  in  with  the  Plover  on  the  13th  of 
August,  on  her  return  from  Point  Barrow,  Commander 
Moore  having  coasted  in  his  boats,  and  minutely  exam- 
ined the  several  inlets  as  far  as  that  point  from  Icy  Cape 
without  gaining  any  intelligence  or  the  missing  expeai- 
tion.  Commander  Moore  and  his  boat's  crew  had  suf- 
fered severely  from  exposure  to  cold.  Captain  Kellet, 
having  fully  victualed  the  Plover,  ordered  ner  to  winter 
in  Grantley  Harbor  (her  former  anchorage  at  Chamisso 
Island  not  being  considered  safe,)  and  then  returned  to 
the  southward  on  his  way  to  England 

Dispatches  have  also  been  received  from  Captain  Col- 
linson,  C.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Enterprise,  and 
Commander  M'Clure,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Investigator 
of  which  the  following  are  copies  : — 

"  Her  Mamainfa  Bhjm  ^Enterpriser 
^^Port  Clarence^  Sept.  13, 1850. 

"Sir, — I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  an  account  of 
the  proceedings  of  her  Majesty's  ship  under  my  com 
mand  since  leaving  Oahn  on  the  30th  of  June. 

"Being  delayed  by  light  winds,  we  only  reached  the 
western  end  of  the  Aleutian  Chain  by  the  29th  of  July, 
and  made  the  Island  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  11th  of 
August,  from  whence  I  shaped  a  course  for  Cape  Lis- 
burne, in  anticipation  of  falling  in  with  the  Herald  or 


) « 


j^- 


298 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCmC  DISCJOVERT. 


the  Plover.  Not,  however,  scoinff  either  of  these  ves- 
sels, and  finding  nothing  deposited  on  shore,  I  went  on 
to  Wainwright  Inlet,  the  last  rendezvons  appointed. 
Here  wo  communicated  on  the  16th,  and  being  alike 
unsuccessful  in  obtaining  any  information,  I  stood  to 
the  north,  made  the  ice  following  morning,  and  reached 
the  latitude  72°  40'  N.  in  the  meridian  of  159°  30'  W., 
without  serious  obstruction.  Here,  however,  the  pacli 
became  so  close  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  way  in 
any  direction  except  to  the  southward.  Having  extri* 
cated  ourselves  by  noon  on  the  19th,  we  continued  to 
coast  along  the  edge  of  the  main  body,  which  took  a 
southeasterly  trend,  running  through  the  loose  streams, 
so  as  not  to  lose  sight  of  tight  pack.  At  4  a.  m.  on  the 
20th  we  were  in  the  meridian  of  Point  Barrow,  and 
twenty-eight  miles  to  the  north  of  it,  when  we  found 
open  water  to  the  N.  E.,  in  which  we  sailed,  without 
losing  sight  of  the  ice  to  the  north  until  the  morning 
of  the  21st,  when  we  were  obstructed  by  a  heavy  bar- 
rier trending  to  the  southwest.  A  thick  fog  coming  on, 
we  made  a  board  to  the  north,  in  order  to  leel  the  pack 
edge  in  the  upper  part  of  the  bight,  and  not  to  leave 
any  part  unexplored.  Having  satisned  myself  that  no 
opening  existed  ^n  this  direction,  we  bore  away  to  the 
south,  running  through  heavy  floes  closely  packed,  and 
pushing  to  the  eastward  when  an  opportunity  offered. 
In  this,  however,  we  were  unsuccessful,  being  com- 

{)elled  to  pursue  a  westerly  course,  the  floes  being  very 
icavy  and  hummocky.  !By  8  p.  m.  we  were  within 
thirty  miles  of  the  land,  and  having  clear  weather, 
could  see  the  ice  closely  packed  to  the  south  that  left 
no  doubt  in  my  mind  that  a  stop  was  put  to  our  pro- 
ceeding in  this  direction,  by  the  ice  butting  so  close  on 
the  shoal  coast  as  to  leave  no  chance  that  our  progress 
along  it  would  justify  the  attempt  to  reach  Cape  fiath- 
urst,  a  distance  of  670  miles,  during  the  remaining 
portion  of  this  season;  and  finding  this  opinion  was 
coincided  in  by  those  oflScers  on  board  qualified  to 
form  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  I  determined  to  lose 
no  time  in  communicating  with  Point  Barrow,  but  to 


inmg 
was 
3d  to 
)  lose 
ut  to 


SECOND  TRIP  OF  KNTERl'RISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     299 

nttompt  the  passage  further  north,  in  hopes  that  the 
lane  of  water  seen  last  year  by  the  Ilcrakt  and  Plover 
would  afford  me  an  opening  to  the  eastward.  I  there- 
fore reluctantly  proceeded  again  to  the  west,  and  turn- 
ing the  pack  edge  fifteen  miles  further  to  the  south 
than  it  was  on  the  day  after  we  left  Wainwright  lulet, 
we  followed  the  edge  of  a  loose  pack  greatly  broken 
up,  until  we  reached  163°  W.  long.,  when  it  took  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  north,  in  which  direction  we  fol- 
lowed it  until  the  morning  of  the  27th,  when  we  were 
in  latitude  73°  20',  and  found  the  pack  to  the  westward 
trending  southerly.  I  therefore  plied  to  the  eastward, 
endeavoring  to  make  way,  but  such  was  its  close  con- 
dition that  we  could  not  work,  although  we  might  have 
warped  through,  had  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  that 
direction  afforded  us  any  hope ;  but  this,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  was  not  the  case,  and,  on  the  contrary,  the  further 
we  entered,  the  larger  the  floes  became,  leaving  us,  in 
thick  weather,  often  in  great  difficulty  where  to  find  a 
lane.  On  the  29th  the  thermometer  having  fallen  to 
28°,  and  there  being  no  prospect  of  our  being  able  to 
accomplish  any  thing  toward  the  fulfillment  of  their 
Lordships'  instructions  this  season,  I  bore  away  for 
Point  Elope,  where  I  arrived  on  the  31st,  and  found  a 
bottle  deposited  by  the  Herald,  which  informed  me 
that  it  was  intended  to  place  the  Plover  in  Grantley 
Harbor  this  season.  I  accordingly  proceeded  thither, 
with  the  view  of  taking  her  place  for  the  winter,  and 
enabling  Commander  Moore  to  recruit  his  ship's  com- 
pany by  going  to  the  southward.  On  my  arrival  I 
found  her  inside,  preparing  her  winter  quarters,  and 
having  examined  and  buoyed  the  bar,  I  attempted  to 
take  this  vessel  inside,  but  failed  in  doing  so,  owing 
to  the  change  of  wind  from  south  to  north  having  re- 
duced the  depth  of  water  four  feet,  and  had  to  relieve 
the  ship  of  100  tons,  which  was  quickly  done  by  the 
opportune  arrival  of  the  Herald,  before  she  was  re- 
leased from  a  very  critical  position.  The  tides  being 
irregular,  the  rise  and  fall  depending  principally  on 
the  wind,  and  that  wind  which  occasions  the  highest 


I 


300 


PROGRESS   OF  AKOTIO   DISCOVERT. 


water  producing  a  swell  on  the  bar,  it  became  a  ques- 
tion wliether  a  considerable  portion  of  the  ensuing 
season  might  not  be  lost  in  getting  the  ship  out  ot 
Grantley  Harbor ;  and  on  consulting  Captains  Kellet 
and  Moore,  finding  it  to  be  their  opinion,  founded  on 
the  experience  of  two  years,  that  tne  whalers  coining; 
from  tL  south  pass  through  the  Strait  oarly  i„  June, 
whereas  the  harbors  are  blocked  until  the  middle  of 
July,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  I  shall  better 
perform  the  important  duty  confided  in  me  by  return- 
ing to  the  south,  and  replenishing  my  provisions,  in- 
stead of  wintering  on  the  Asiatic  Shore,  where  there 
is  not  a  prospect  of  our  being  of  the  slightest  use  to 
the  missing  expedition.  It  is  therefore  my  intention 
to  proceed  to  Hong  Kong,  it  being  nearer  than  Valpa- 
raiso, and  the  cold  season  having  set  in,  my  stores  and 
provisions  will  not  be  exposed  to  the  heat  of  a  double 
passage  through  the  tropics ;  and  as  I  shall  not  leave 
until  the  1st  of  April,  I  may  receive  any  further  in- 
structions their  Lordships  may  please  to  communicate. 

"The  Plover  has  been  storea  and  provisioned,  and 
such  of  her  crew  as  are  not  in  a  fit  state  to  contend 
with  the  rigor  of  a  further  stay  in  these  latitudes  have 
been  removed,  and  replaced  by  Captain  Kellet,  and  the 
paragraphs  referring  to  her  in  my  instructions  fulfilled. 

"1  have  directed  Commander  Moore  to  communi* 
cate  annually  with  an  Island  in  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  in 
latitude  66°  38'  N.,  and  longitude  170**  43'  W.,  which 
is  much  resorted  to  by  the  whalers,  and  where  any 
communication  their  Lordships  may  bo  pleased  to  send 
may  be  deposited  by  them,  as  they  are  not  in  the 
habit  of  cruising  on  this  side  of  the  Strait ;  and  I  have 
requested  Captain  Kellet  to  forward  to  the  Admiralty 
all  the  information  on  this  head  he  may  obtain  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

"  It  is  my  intention  to  proceed  again  to  the  north, 
and  remain  in  the  most  eligible  position  for  affording 
assistance  to  the  Investigator,  which  vessel,  having 
been  favored  with  a  surprising  passage  from  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  was  fallen  in  with  by  the  Herald  on  the 


RKt'ONI)  mil'  OF  ENTKUI'RISK  AND  INVKSTUJATOK.     .'{01 

niflt  of  July,  off  Point  Hope,  and  aj^ain  on  the  Sth  of 
August  by  tlio  1 'lover,  in  hititudo  7U°  44'  N.,  and  lon- 
gitude 151>  ^  52' W.,  when  she  was  standing  to  the  north 
under  a  press  of  sail,  and  in  all  probability  reached 
the  vicinity  of  Point  Barrow,  fitleen  days  previous  to 
tlio  Enterprise,  when  Captain  M'Clure,  having  the 
whole  season  before  him,  and  animated  with  the  de- 
termination so  vividly  expressed  in  his  letter  to  Cap- 
tain Kellctt,  has  most  likely  taken  the  inshore  route, 
and  I  hope  before  this  period  reached  Cape  Bathurst ; 
l)ut  as  he  will  be  exposed  to  the  imminent  risk  of  being 
forced  on  a  shoal  snore  and  compelled  to  take  to  his 
boats,  I  shall  not  forsake  the  coast  to  the  northward 
of  Point  Ilojpe  until  the  season  is  so  fUr  advanced  as 
to  insure  their  having  taken  up  their  winter  quarters 
for  this  season. 

"  I  have  received  from  my  oflScers  and  ship's  com- 
pany that  assistance  and  alacrity  in  the  performance 
of  their  duty,  which  the  noble  cause  in  which  we  are 
engaged  must  excite,  and  I  have  the  satisfaction  to  re- 
port that  (under  the  blessing  of  God)  owing  to  the 
means  their  Lordships  have  supplied  in  extra  clothing 
and  provisions,  we  are  at  present  without  a  man  on 
the  sick  list,  notwithstanding  the  lengthened  period  of 
our  voyage. 

"I  have,  &c., 

KioHABD  CoLLiNBON,  Captain. 

"The  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty." 


*^IIer  Majeaty^s  Discovery -ship  ^Investigator^  at  sea, 
latitude  61°  26'  iV^.,  longitude  172°  35'  F.,  July  20. 

Sir, —  As  I  have  received  instructions  from  Captain 
CoUinson,  C.  B.,  clear  and  unembarrassing,  (a  copy  of 
which  I  inclose,)  to  proceed  to  Cape  Lisburne  in  the 
hope  of  meeting  him  in  that  vicinity,  as  he  anticipates 
being  detained  a  day  or  two  by  the  Plover  in  Kotzebue 
Sound,  it  is  unnecessary  to  add  that  every  exertion  shall 
be  made  to  reach  that  rendezvous,  but  can  scarce  ven- 
ture to  hope  that  even  under  very  favorable  circum- 


K 


ll;t 


li. 


7 


302 


PROORKSS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


Btances  I  shall  be  so  fortunate  as  to  accomplish  it  ere 
the  Enterprise  will  have  rounded  that  cape,  from  her 
superior  sail  ins,  she  hitherto  having  beaten  us  by  eight 
days  to  Cape  virgins,  and  from  Magellan  Strait  to  Oahu 
six.  It  is,  therefore,  under  the  probable  case  that  this 
vessel  may  form  a  detached  part  of  the  expedition  that 
I  feel  it  my  duty  to  state,  for  the  information  of  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  the  course 
which,  under  such  a  contingency,  I  shall  endeavor  to 

Eursue,  and  have  to  request  that  you  will  lay  the  same 
efore  their  Lordships. 

"  1.  After  passing  Cape  Lisburne,  it  is  my  intention 
to  keep  in  the  open  water,  which,  from  the  different 
reports  that  I  have  read,-  appears  about  this  season  of 
the  year  to  make  between  the  American  coast  and  the 
main  pack  as  far  to  the  northward  as  the  130th  meridian, 
unless  a  favorable  opening  should  earlier  appear  in  the 
ice,  which  would  lead  me  to  infer  that  I  might  push 
more  directly  for  Banks'  Land,  which  I  think  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  to  thoroughly  examine.  In  the  event 
of  thus  far  succeeding,  and  the  season  continuing  favor- 
able for  further  operations,  it  would  be  my  anxious 
desire  to  get  to  the  northward  of  Melville  Island,  and 
resume  our  search  along  its  shores  and  the  islands  adja- 
cent as  long  as  the  navigation  can  be  carried  on,  and 
then  secure  for  the  winter  in  the  most  eligible  position 
which  offers. 

^'  2.  In  the  ensuing  spring,  as  soon  as  it  is  practicable 
for  traveling  parties  to  start,  I  should  dispatch  as  many 
as  the  state  of  the  crew  will  admit  of  in  different  direc- 
tions, each  being  provided  with  forty  days'  provisions, 
with  directions  to  examine  minutely  all  bays,  inlets  and 
islands  toward  the  northeast,  ascending  occasionally 
some  of  the  highest  points  of  land,  so  as  to  be  enabled 
to  obtain  extended  views,  being  particularly  cautious  in 
their  advance  to  observe  any  indication  of  a  break  up  in 
the  ice,  so  that  their  return  to  the  ship  may  be  effected 
without  hazard,  even  before  the  expenditure  of  theii 
provisions  would  otherwise  render  it  necessary. 

"  3.  Supposing  the  parties  to  have  returne<i  w^'•^»^f^ 


SECOND  TRIP  OF  ENTERrEISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     303 


t)'i/««&a)ing  any  cine  of  the  absent  ships,  and  the  vessel 
liberated  about  the  1st  of  August,  ray  object  would  then 
be  to  push  on  toward  Wellington  Inlet,  assuming  that 
that  channel  communicates  with  the  Polar  Sea,  and 
search  both  its  shores,  unless  in  doing  so  some  indication 
should  be  met  with  to  show  that  parties  from  any  of 
Captain  Austin's  vessels  had  previously  done  so,  when 
I  should  return,  and  endeavor  to  penetrate  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Jones'  Sound,  carefully  examining  every  place 
that  was  practicable.  Should  our  efforts  to  reach  this 
point  be  successful,  and  in  the  route  no  traces  are  dis- 
cernible of  the  long  missing  expedition,  I  should  not 
then  be  snabled  longer  to  divest  myself  of  the  feelings, 
painful  as  it  must  be  to  arrive  at  such  a  conclusion,  that 
all  human  aid  would  then  be  perfectly  unavailing ;  and 
therefore,  under  such  a  conviction,  I  would  think  it  my 
duty,  if  possible,  to  return  to  England,  or  at  all  events 
endeavor  to  reach  some  port  that  would  insure  that  ob- 
ject upon  the  following  year. 

"4.  In  the  event  or  this  being  our  last  communica- 
tion, I  would  request  you  to  assure  their  lordships  that 
no  apprehensions  whatever  need  be  entertained  of  our 
safety  until  the  autumn  of  1854,  as  we  have  on  board 
three  years  of  all  species  of  provisions,  commencing 
from  the  1st  of  September  proximo,  which,  without 
much  deprivation,  may  be  made  to  extend  over  a  period 
of  four  years ;  moreover,  whatever  is  killed  by  the  hunt- 
ing parties,  I  intend  to  issue  in  lieu  of  the  usual  rations, 
which  will  still  further  protract  our  resources. 

"  It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  say  that  the  good 
effects  of  the  fruit  and  vegetables,  (a  large  quantity  of 
which  we  took  on  board  at  Oahu,)  are  very  i)erceptible 
in  the  increased  vigor  of  the  men,  who  at  this  moment 
are  in  as  excellent  condition  as  it  is  possible  to  desire, 
and  evince  a  spirit  of  confidence  and  a  cheerfulness  of 
disposition  which  are  beyond  all  appreciation. 

"  6.  Should  difficulties  apparently  insurmountable  en- 
compass our  progress,  so  as  to  render  it  a  matter  of 
doubt  whether  the  vessel  could  be  extricated,  I  should 
deem  it  expedient  in  that  case  not  to  hazard  the  lives 


•T' 


304 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


of  those  intrusted  to  my  charge  after  the  winter  of  1852, 
but  in  the  ensuing  spring  quit  the  vessel  with  sledgea 
and  boats,  and  make  the  best  of  our  way  either  to 
Pond's  Bay,  Leopold  Harbor,  the  Mackenzie,  or  for 
whalers,  according  to  circumstances. 

"Finally.  In  this  letter  I  have  endeavored  to  give  an 
outline  of  what  I  wish  to  accomplish,  (and  what,  under 
moderately  favorable  seasons,  appears  to  me  attainable,) 
the  carrying  out  of  which,  however,  not  resting  upon 
human  exertions,  it  is  impossible  even  to  surmise  if  any, 
or  what,  portion  may  be  successful.  But  my  object  in 
addressing  you  is  to  place  their  Lordships  in  possession 
of  my  intentions  up  to  the  latest  period,  so  far  as  possi- 
ble, to  relieve  their  minds  from  any  unnecessary  anxiety 
as  to  our  fate  ;  and  having  done  this,  a  duty  which  is 
incumbent  from  the  deep  sympathy  expressed  by  their 
Lordships,  and  participated  in  by  all  classes  of  our 
countrymen,  in  the  interesting  object  of  this  expedition, 
I  have  only  to  add,  that  with  the  ample  resources  which 
a  beneficent  government  and  a  generous  country  have 
placed  at  our  disposal,  (not  any  thing  that  can  add  to 
our  comfort  being  wantir.g,)  we  enter  upon  this  distin- 
guished service  with  a  firm  determination  to  carry  out, 
as  far  as  in  our  feeble  strength  we  are  permitted,  their 
benevolent  intentions. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"Egbert  M'Clttee,  Conmiander." 


"JTJ?/*  Majesty's  shvp  ''Enterprise^ 
'^6ahu^  Jtme  29, 1850. 

"Memorandum. — As  soon  as  Her  Majesty's  ship  under 
your  command  is  ftdly  complete  with  provisions,  fuel, 
and  water,  you  will  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Cape 
Lisburne,  keeping  a  good  look-out  for  the  Herald,  or 
casks,  and  firing  guns  in  foggy  weather,  after  passing 
Lawrence  Bay.  The  whalers  also  may  afford  you  infor- 
mation of  our  progress. 

"  Should  you  obtain  no  intelligence,  you  will  under- 
Btand  that  I  intend  to  make  the  pack  close  to  the  Araeri- 


DISPATCHES  FKOM  ENTEBPBISE  AND  Df \  IsaTlGATOE.     305 


f  1852, 

iledgea 

;her  to 

or  for 

Drive  an 
;,  under 
inable,) 
g  upon 
3  if  any, 
bjectin 
ssession 
IS  possi- 
anxiety 
irhich  is 
by  their 
i  of  our 
iedition, 
38  which 
try  have 
n  add  to 
distin- 
irry  out, 
ed,  their 


nder." 


150. 

ip  under 
ms,  fuel, 

to  Cape 
erald,  or 

passing 
ou  infor- 

1  under- 
0  Ameri- 


can shore,  and  pursue  the  first  favorable  opening  west 
of  the  Coast  stream,  pressing  forward  toward  Melville 
Island.    In  the  event  of  meeting  land,  it  is  most  probr  • 
ble  that  I  would  pursue  the  soutnern  shore,  but  conspic 
uous  marks  will  be  erected,  if  practicable,  and  informs 
tion  buried  at  a  ten-foot  radius. 

"  As  it  is  necessary  to  be  prepared  for  the  contin 
genc^  of  your  not  being  able  to  follow  by  the  ice  clos 
mg  in,  or  the  severity  of  the  weather,  you  will  in  that 
case  keep  the  Investigator  as  close  to  the  edge  of  the 
pack  as  is  consistent  with  her  safety,  and  remain  there 
until  the  season  compels  you  to  depart,  when  you  will 
look  into  Kotzebue  Sound  for  the  Plover,-  or  informa- 
tion regarding  her  position  ;  and  having  deposited  un- 
der her  charge  a  twelve  month's  provisions,  you  will 
proceed  to  Valparaiso,  replenish,  and  return  to  the 
Strait,  bearing  in  mind  that  the  months  of  June  and 
July  are  the  most  favorable. 

"  A  letter  from  the  hydrographer  relative  to  the  vari- 
ation of  the  compass  is  annexed  ;  and  you  will  bear  in 
mind  that  the  value  of  these  observations  will  he  greatly 
enhanced  by  obtaining  the  variation  with  the  ship's 
head  at  every  second  or  fourth  point  round  the  com- 
pass occasionally,  and  she  should  be  swung  for  devia- 
tion in  harbor  as  often  as  opportunity  may  offer. 

"  Should  you  not  find  the  Plover,  or  that  any  casualty 
has  happened  to  render  her  inefficient  as  a  depot,  you 
will  take  her  place  ;  and  if,  (as  Captain  Kellett  sup- 
l)oses,)  Kotzebue  Sound  has  proved  too  exposed  for  a 
winter  harbor,  you  will  proceed  to  Grantley  Ilarboi*, 
leaving  a  notice  to  that  effect  on  Chamisso  Island. 
The  attention  of  your  officers  is  to  be  called,  and  you 
will  read  to  your  ship's  company,  the  remarks  of  Sir 
J.  Richardson  concerning  the  communication  with  the 
Esquimaux,  contained  in  the  arctic  report  received  at 
Plymouth. 

"  Your  operations  in  the  season  1851,  cannot  bo 
guided  by  me,  nor  is  there  any  occasion  to  urge  you  to 
proceed  to  the  northeast ;  yet  it  will  be  highly  desir- 
able, previous  to  entering  the  pack,  that  yon  completed 


i 


i 


f  ! 


•^ 


■I 

'I' 


,v<i 


rROGKESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


provisions  from  whalorB,  and  obtained  as  much  reindeer 
meat  as  possible.  Captain  Kellett's  narrative  will  point 
out  where  the  latter  is  to  be  had  in  most  abundance, 
and  where  coal  can  bo  picked  up  on  the  beach  ;  but 
husband  the  latter  article  during  the  winter,  by  using 
all  the  drift-wood  in  your  power. 

"  In  the  event  of  leaving  the  Strait  this  season,  you 
will  take  any  weak  or  sickly  men  out  of  the  Plover, 
and  replace  them  from  your  crews,  affording  Com- 
mander Moore  all  the  assistance  in  your  power,  and 
*  leaving  with  him  Mr.  Miertsching,  the  interpreter  ;  in- 
structions with  regard  to  whose  accommodations  you 
have  received,  and  will  convey  to  the  captain  of  the 
Plover.  "Richard  Collinson. 

"  To  Commander  WGlure^  of  her 
Majesty* 8  shijp  *  Investigator? 

"  Should  it  be  the  opinion  of  Commander  Moore  that 
the  services  of  the  Investigator's  ship's  company  in  ex- 
ploring parties  during  the  spring  would  be  attended 
with  material  benefit  to  the  object  of  the  expedition, 
he  will,  notwithstanding  these  orders,  detain  you  for 
that  purpose  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  your  effi- 
ciency as  a  sailing  vessel  is  not  crippled  by  the  parties 
not  returning  in  time  for  the  opening  of  the  sea. 

«  R.  C." 


"  Her  Majesty's  discovery  shvp  '  Investigator^  July 
28,  1850.  Kotzelue  Sound,  latitude  66°  54'  JV., 
longitude  16%''  W. 

"  Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  in- 
formation of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty, that  to  this  date  we  have  had  a  most  excellent 
run.  Upon  getting  clear  of  Oahu,  on  the  morning  of 
the  5th,  we  shaped  a  course  direct  for  the.  Aleutian 
group,  passing  them  in  172°  40'  W.,  upon  the  eveninp; 
of  the  20th  ;  continued  our  course  with  a  fine  south- 
easterly breeze,  but  extremely  thick  and  foggy  weather, 
(which  retarded  the  best  of  our  way  being  made.)  Got 
fairly  out  of  Behring's  Strait  upon  the  evening  of  the 


VOYAGE  OF   TIIE   PLOVEK,  ETC. 


307 


indeer 
I  point 
dance, 
1 ;  but 
r  using 

>n,  you 
Plover, 
r  Com- 
ber, and 
ber  ;  in- 
ms  you 
a  of  the 

[NSON. 


ai 


3ore  that 
ay  in  ex- 
attended 
edition, 
you  tor 
jrour  effi- 
parties 

ia. 

R.  C." 


)r 


,  July 
54'  X 


e 


Dr  the  in- 
Adnii- 
excellent 
rning  of 
Aleutian 
!  evening; 
ne  south- 
weather, 
e.)    Got 
g  of  the 


27th,  and  are  now  in  a  fair  way  of  realizing  tlieir  Lord- 
ships' expectations  of  reaching  the  ice  by  the  begin- 
ning of  August,  our  progress  oeing  advanced  by  the 
favorable  circumstances  of  a  fine  southerly  wind  and 
tolerably  clear  weather.  The  latter  we  have  known 
nothing  of  since  the  19th,  which,  I  can  assure  you,  ren- 
dered the  navigation  among  the  islands  a  subject  of 
much  and  deep  anxiety,  seloom  having  a  horizon  above 
480  yards,  that  just  enabled  the  dark  outline  of  the  land 
to  be  observed  and  avoided. 

"  It  is  with  much  satisfaction  that  I  report  the  good 
qualities  of  this  vessel,  having  well  tried  her  in  the 
heavy  gales  experienced  during  five  weeks  oft'  Capo 
Horn,  and  in  moderate  weather  among  the  intricate 
navigation  of  these  islands,  where  so  much  depended 
upon  her  quick  obedience  to  the  helm,  although  laden 
with  every  species  of  stores  and  provisions  for  upward 
of  three  years.  From  these  circumstances  I  am,  there- 
fore, fully  satisfied  she  is  as  thoroughly  adapted  for  this 
service  as  could  be  reasonably  wished. 

"  I  have  not  seen  any  thing  of  the  Enterprise,  nor  is 
it  my  intention  to  lose  a  moment  by  waiting  off  Cape 
Lisbume,  but  shall  use  my  best  endeavors  to  carry  out 
the  intentions  contained  in  my  letter  of  the  20th,  of 
which  I  earnestly  trust  their  Lordships  will  approve. 

"  I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  state  that  the  wliole  crew 
are  in  excellent  health  and  spirits,  and  every  thing  as 
eatisfactory  as  it  is  possible  to  desire. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"  EoBERT  M'Cluke,  Commander. 

"  The  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty.''* 

Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  "  Plover,"  and  Boat  Expeditions 
UNDER  Commander  Pullen,  1848-61. 

In  the  copy  of  the.  instructions  issued  from  the  Ad- 
miralty to  Lieutenant,  (now  Commander,)  Moore,  of 
the  Plover,  dated  3d  of  January,  1848,  he  was  directed 
to  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  Petropaulowski,  touch- 
ing at  Panama,  where  she  was  to  be  joined  by  H.  M. 

14 


308 


rROGRESS  OP  AEOTIO  DISCOVERT. 


S.  Herald,  and  afterward  both  vessels  were  to  proceed 
to  Behring's  Strait,  where  they  were  expected  to  arrive 
about  the  Ist  of  July,  and  then  push  along  the  Ameri- 
can coast,  as  far  as  possible,  consistent  with  the  cer- 
tainty of  preventing  the  ships  being  beset  by  the  ice. 
The  I*lover  was  then  to  be  secured  for  the  winter  in 
some  safe  and  convenient  port  from  whence  boat  par- 
ties might  be  dispatched,  and  the  Herald  was  to  return 
and  transmit,  via  Panama,  any  intelligence  necessary; 
to  England.  Great  caution  was  ordered  to  be  observed 
in  communicating  with  the  natives  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Kotzebue  Sound,  should  that  quarter  be  visited,  as 
the  people  in  that  part  of  the  country  differ  in  charac- 
ter from  the  ordinary  Esquimaux,  in  being  compara- 
tively a  fierce,  agile,  and  suspicious  race,  well  armed 
with  knives,  &c.,  for  offense,  and  prone  to  attack. 
They  were  also  ordered  to  take  interpreters  or  guides 
from  a  small  factory  of  the  Russian- American  Company 
in  Norton  Sound. 

The  Plover  was  safely  ensconced  for  the  winter  of 
1849-50  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  after  the  termination  of  a 
hard  season's  work.  She  had,  conjointly  with  the  Her- 
ald, discovered  to  the  north  of  Eehring's  Strait,  two 
islands,  and  several  apparently  disconnected  patches 
of  very  elevated  ground.  Lieut.  Pullon  had  previously 
quitted  her  off  Wainwright  Inlet,  with  four  boats,  for 
tne  purpose  of  prosecuting  his  adventurous  voyage 
along  the  coast  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River, 
where  he  arrived  safely  on  the  26th  of  August,  after  Ji 
perilous  navigation  of  thirty-two  days,  but  had  obtained 
no  clue  or  intelligence  regarding  the  prime  object  of  his 
expedition.  At  a  later  date  he  encountered  at  Fort 
Simpson,  higher  up  the  river.  Dr.  Rae,  and  gathered 
"from  tha*:  gentleman  that  the  party  led  by  him  down 
the  Coppermine,  with  the  vie^.  ca  crossing  over  to  Vic 
toria  or  Wollaston  Land,  had,  owing  to  the  unusual 
difficulties  created  by  the  more  thdn  customary  rigor  of 
the  season,  met  with  entire  failure  ;  the  farthest  point 
attair  ad  being  Cape  Erusenstem. 

Lieut.  Pullen  is  occupied  during  the  present  year  in 


VOYAGE   OF   THE   I'LOVEK,  ETC. 


300 


proceed 
)  arrive 
Ameri- 
the  cer- 
the  ice. 
inter  in 
oat  par- 

0  return 
ecessary 
observed 
iborbood 
isited,  as 

1  charac- 
compara- 
11  armed 
0  attack. 
3r  guides 
Company 

ivinter  of 
Eition  of  a 
tbe  Her- 
trait,  two 
patcbcs 
)reviously 
boats,  for 
8  voyage 
ie  Biver, 
Lst,  after  ii 
obtained 
iect  of  his 
at  Fort 
gathered 
iim  down 
er  toYic 
Ie  unusual 
•y  rigor  ot 
Lest  point 

[nt  year  in 


a  journey  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  eastward, 
along  the  arctic  coast,  as  far  as  Cape  Bathurst,  and  this 
being  successfully  accomplished,  he  purposes  attempt- 
ing to  cross  the  intervening  space  to  feanxs'  Land.  He 
is  turnished  with  two  boats,  both  open. 

Lieut.  W.  H.  Hooper,  one  of  the  party,  in  a  recent 
letter  to  his  father  in  London,  writing  from  Great  Slave 
Lake,  under  date  June  27, 1850,  gives  some  further  de- 
tails of  their  proceedings.  Having  had  considerable 
trouble  and  a  slight  skirmish  with  some  parties  of  Es- 
quimaux, thev  were  obliged  to  be  continually  on  the 
watch.  At  the  end  of  August,  the  party  entered  the 
Mackenzie  River,  and  in  a  lew  days  reached  one  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  on  the  Peel  River,  a 
branch  of  the  MacKenzie,  where  Commander  Pullen 
left  Lieut.  Hooper  and  half  the  party  to  winter,  while 
he  proceeded  farther  up  the  river  to  a  more  important 
post  at  Fort  Simpson.  After  remaining  at  Peel's  River 
station  about  a  fortnight,  Mr.  Hooper  found  that  his 
party  could  not  be  maintained  throughout  the  winter 
tliere,  and  in  consequence  determined  on  following 
Capt.  Pullen,  but  was  only  able  to  reach  Fort  Norman, 
one  of  his  party  being  frost-bitten  on  the  journey. 
Tliey  thence  made  their  way  across  to  Great  Bear  Lake, 
where  they  passed  the  winter,  subsisting  on  fish  and 
water.  Dr.  Rae  arrived  there  as  soon  as  the  ice  broke 
up,  and  the  party  proceeded  with  him  to  Fort  Simpson. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  Commander  Pullen  and  all  his 
party  left  with  the  company's  servants,  and  the  stock  of 
furs,  on  their  way  to  the  sea,  to  embark  for  England, 
when  they  were  met,  on  the  25th,  by  a  canoe  with  Ad- 
miralty dispatches,  which  caused  them  to  retrace  their 
steps  ;  and  they  are  now  on  their  route  by  the  Great 
Slave  Lake  to  Fort  Simpson,  and  down  the  Mackenzie 
once  more,  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  of  Sir  John. 
Franklin. 

"  However  grieving,"  Lieut.  Hooper  adds,  "  it  is  to 
be  disappointed  of  returning  home,  yet  I  am  neverthe- 
less delighted  to  go  again,  and  think  that  we  do  not 
hopelessfy  undertake  another  search,  since  our  intended 


*i. 


310 


I'ROGRESS    OF    AKCfIC   DISCOVERY. 


direction  is  considered  the  most  probable  channel  for 
finding  the  missing  ships  or  crews.  We  ^o  down  the 
Mackenzie,  along  flie  coast  eastward  to  Point  Bathurst, 
and  thence  strike  across  to  Wollaston  or  Banks'  Land. 
The  season  will,  of  course,  much  influence  our  proceed- 
ings ;  but  we  shall  probably  return  up  the  hitherto 
unexplored  river  which  runs  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 
from  Liverpool  Baj,  between  the  Coppeniiine  and 
Mackenzie." 

The  latest  official  dispatch  from  Commander  Pullen 
is  dated  Great  Slave  Lake,  June  28th.  He  had  been 
stopped  by  the  ice,  and  intended  returning  to  Fort 
Simpson  on  the  29th.  One  of  his  boats  was  so  battered 
about  as  to  bo  perfectly  useless  ;  he  intended  patchiii;]j 
up  the  other,  and  was  also  to  recoive  a  new  oout  be- 
longing to  the  IIikIsod's  Bay  Company,  fi*om  Fort 
Simpson.  He  had  dismissed  two  of  his  party,  as  they 
were  both  suffering  from  bad  health,  but  proposed  en- 
gaging, at  Fort  Good  Hope,  two  Hare  Indians  as  hunt- 
ei'd  and  guides,  one  of  whom  had  accompanied  Messrs. 
Dease  and  Simpson  on  their  trips  of  discovery  in  1838 
and  1839.  This  would  augment  the  party  to  seventeen 
persons  in  all. 

"  My  present  intentions,"  he  says,  "  are  to  proceed 
down  the  Mackenzie,  along  the  coast,  to  Cape  Bathurst, 
and  then  strike  across  for  Banks'  Land  ;  my  operations 
must  then,  of  course  be  guided  by  circumstances,  but  I 
shall  strenuously  endeavor  to  search  along  all  coasts  in 
that  direction  as  far  and  as  late  as  I  can  with  safety 
venture  ;  returning,  if  possible,  by  the  Mackenzie,  or 
by  the  Beghoola,  which  the  Indians  speak  of  as  being 
navigable,  as  its  head  waters  are,  (according  to  Sir  John 
Richardson,)  only  a  nine-days'  passage  from  Fort  Good 
Hope  ;  to  meet  wiiich,  or  a  sinular  contingency,  I  tako 
snow  shoes  and  sledges,  &c. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  assure  their  Lordships  of 
my  earnest  determination  to  carry  out  their  views  to 
the  utmost  of  my  ability,  being  confident,  from  the 
eagerness  of  the  party,  that  no  pains  will  bo  spared,  no 
necessary  labor  avoided,  and,  ny  God's  blessing,  wo 


"'T-' 


VOYAGE   OF   THE   rLOVt        ETC. 


3iX 


hope  to  be  successful  in  discovering  some  tidings  of  our 
gallant  countrymen,  or  even  in  restoring  them  to  their 
native  land  and  anxious  relatives." 

Mr.  Chief  Factor  Rae  was  about  to  follow  Com- 
mander PuUen  and  his  party  from  Portage  La  Lociie. 

Dr.  Eichardson  observes  that  "  Commander  Pnllen 
will  require  to  be  fully  victualed  for  at  least  120  days 
from  the  20tb  of  July,  when  he  may  be  expected  to 
commence  his  sea  voyage  ;  which,  for  sixteen  men,  will 
require  forty-five  bags  of  pemmican  of  90  lbs.  each. 
This  is  exclusive  of  a  further  supply  which  he  ought  to 
take  for  the  relief  of  any  of  Franklin's  people  he  may 
have  the  good  fortune  to  find.  After  he  leaves  the 
main-land  at  Cape  Bathui*st,  he  would  have  no  chance 
of  killing  deer  till  he  makes  Banks'  Land,  or  some  in- 
tervening island  ;  and  he  must  provide  for  the  chance 
of  being  caught  on  the  floe  ice,  and  having  to  make  his 
way  across  by  the  very  tedious  portages,  as  fully  de- 
scribed by  Sir  "W.  E.  Parry  in  the  narative  of  his  most 
adventurous  boat  voyage  north  of  Spitzbergen. 

"  Mr.  Kae  can  give  Commander  PuUen  the  fullest 
information  respecting  the  depots  of  pemmican  made 
on  the  coast. 

"  With  respect  to  Commander  Pullen's  return  from 
sea,  his  safest  plan  will  be  to  make  for  the  Mackenzie ; 
but  should  circumstances  place  that  out  of  his  power, 
the  only  other  course  that  seems  to  me  to  be  practicable 
is  for  him  to  ascend  a  large  river  which  falls  into  tiie 
bottom  of  Liverpool  Bay,  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Ba- 
thurst.  This  river,  which  is  named  the  Begloola  Dessy 
by  the  Indians,  runs  parallel  to  the  Mackenzie,  and  in 
the  latitude  of  Fort  Good  Hope,  {66°  30'  N.,)  is  not 
above  five  or  six  days' journey  from  that  post.  Hare 
Indians,  belonging  to  Fort  Good  Hope,  might  bo  en 
gaged  to  hunt  on  the  banks  of  the  river  till  the  arrival 
of  the  party.  The  navigation  of  the  river  is  unknown ; 
but  even  should  Commander  Pullen  be  compelled  to 
quit  his  boats,  his  Indian  hunters,  (of  which  he  should 
at  least  engage  two  for  his  sea  voyage,)  will  support 
and  guide  his  party.  Wood  and  animals  are  most  cer- 
tainly found  on  the  banks  of  rivers. 


f 


I 


812 


PR00EES8  OF  ARCriC  DISCOVERY. 


"It  is  not  likely  that  under  any  circumstances  Com- 
mander Pullen  should  desire  to  reach  the  Mackenzie 
by  way  of  the  Coppermine  River,  and  this  could  be 
enected  only  by  a  boat  being  placed  at  Dease  River, 
for  the  transport  of  the  party  over  Great  Bear  Lake. 
This  would  require  to  be  arranged  previously  with 
Mr.  Rae ;  and  Commander  Pullen  should  not  be 
later  in  arriving  at  Fort  Confidence  than  the  end  of 
September." 

Voyage  op  the  "Lady  Franklin"  and  "Sopiha," 
Government  Vessels,  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Penny,  1850-61. 

A  vessel  of  230  tons,  named  the  Lady  Franklin,  fit- 
ted out  at  Aberdeen,  with  a  new  brig  as  a  tender,  built 
at  Dundee,  and  named  the  Sophia,  in  honor  of  Miss 
S.  Cracroft,  the  beloved  and  attached  niece  of  Lady 
Franklin,  and  one  of  the  most  anxious  watchers  for 
tidings  of  the  long  missing  adventurers,  were  purchased 
by  the  government  Ian  year. 

The  cnarge  of  this  exj>edition  was  intrusted  to  Cap- 
tain Penny,  foi*merly  commanding  the  Advice  whaler, 
and  who  has  had  much  experience  in  the  icy  seas,  hav- 
ing been  engaged  twenty-eight  years,  since  the  age  of 
twelve,  in  the  whaling  trade,  and  in  command  of  ves- 
sels for  fourteen  vears  ;  Mr.  Stewart  was  placed  in 
charge  of  the  Sophia. 

The  crew  of  the  Lady  Franklin  number  twenty-five, 
and  that  of  the  Sophia,  twenty,  all  picked  men. 

These  ships  sailed  on  the  12th  of  April,  1850,  pro- 
visioned and  stored  for  three  years.  They  were  pro- 
vided with  a  printing  press,  and  every  appliance  to 
relieve  the  tedium  of  a  long  sojourn  in  the  icy  regions. 

In  the  instructions  issued  by  the  Admiralty,  it  is 
stated  that  in  accepting  Captain  Parry's  offer  of  service, 
regard  has  been  had  to  his  long  experience  in  arctic 
navigation,  and  to  the  great  attention  he  has  paid  to 
the  subject  of  the  missing  ships. 

He  "was  left  in  a  great  measure  to  the  exercise  of  his 


VOYAGE  OF  TirE  RESOLUTE  AND  ASSISTANCE,  ETr       313 


»wn  judgment  and  discretion,  in  combining  the  most 
Active  and  energetic  searcli  after  the  Erehus  and  Terror, 
witli  a  strict  and  careful  regard  to  tlie  safety  t)f  tho 
ships  and  their  crews  under  his  cliarge.  He  was  di- 
rected to  examine  Jones'  Sound  at  the  head  of  Ballin's 
liay,  and  if  possible,  penetrate  through  to  the  Parry 
Islands  ;  failing  in  this,  he  was  to  try  Wellington  Strait, 
and  endeavor  to  reach  Melville  Island,  lie  was  to  uso 
his  utmost  endeavors,  (consistent  with  the  safety  of  tho 
lives  of  those  intrusted  to  his  command,)  to  succor,  in 
tlie  summer  of  1850,  the  party  under  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, taking  care  to  secure  his  winter-quarters  in  good 
time  ;  and  2dly,  the  same  active  measures  were  to  be 
used  in  the  summer  of  1851,  to  secure  tho  return  of  the 
ships  under  his  charge  to  this  country. 

The  Lady  Franklm  was  oft'  Cape  York,  in  Bafiin's 
Bay,  on  tho  13th  of  August.  From  thence  she  pro- 
ceeded, in  company  with  H.  M.  S.  Assistance,  to  Wol- 
stenholme  Sound.  She  afterward,  in  accordance  with 
her  instructions,  crossed  over  to  the  west  with  the  in- 
tention of  examining  Jones'  Sound,  but  owing  to  the 
accumulation  of  ice,  was  unable  to  approach  it  within 
twenty-five  miles.  This  was  at  midnight  on  the  18th. 
She,  therefore,  continued  her  voyage  to  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  onward  to  Wellington  Channel,  where  she 
was  seen  by  Commander  Forsyth,  of  the  Prince  Albert, 
)n  the  25th  of  August,  with  her  tender,  and  IT.  M.  S. 
Assistance  in  company,  standing  toward  Cape  Ilotham. 

Voyage  of  H.  M.  Ships  "  Resolute  "  and  "  Assistance," 
WITH  the  Steamers  "Pioneer"  and  "iNTRErro" 
as  Tenders,  under  command  of  Captain  Austin, 
1850-51. 

Two  fine  teak-built  ships  of  about  500  tons  each,  the 
Baboo  and  Ptarmigan,  whose  names  were  altered  to 
the  Assistance  and  Resolute,  were  purchased  by  the 
government  in  1850,  and  sent  to  the  naval  yards  to  be 
oroperly  fitted  for  the  voyage  to  the  polar  regions. 

Two  screw-propeller  steamers,  intended  to  accompany 


iiJ 


I 


I 


^pg'yj'  ■■^^"■j-^ 


814 


PnOORESS   OF  AUCTIO   DISGOVEKT. 


theno  vessels  ns  steam  tenders,  were  also  purchasocl  and 
similarly  fitted  ;  their  names  were  changed  from  the 
Eider  and  Free  Trade  to  the  Pioneer  and  Intrepid. 

The  command  of  this  expedition  was  intrusted  to 
Captain  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B.,  who  was  first  lien- 
tenant  of  the  Fury,  under  Commander  Iloppner,  in 
Captain  Sir  E.  Parry's  third  voyage,  in  1824-25.  Tlio 
vessels  were  provisioned  for  three  years,  and  their  at- 
tention was  also  directed  to  the  depots  of  stores  lodged 
by  Sir  James  Ross  at  Leopold  Island,  and  at  Navy 
Board-  Inlet  bv  the  North  Star.  The  ships  sailed  in 
May,  1850.  The  officers  employed  in  them  were  as 
follows  : — 

Beaolute. 

Captain  —  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  D.  Aid  rich,  and  W.  H.  J.  Browne. 

Mates  —  R.  B.  Pearse,  and  W.  M.  Hay. 

Purser — J.  E.  Brooman. 

Surgeon  —  A.  R.  Bradford. 

Assistant,  ditto  —  Richard  King. 

Midshipmen  —  C.  Bullock,  J.  P.  CheyiM. 

Second  Master — G.  F.  M'Denjeall. 

Total  complement,  60  men. 

Pioneer^  screw  steamer. 

Lient.-Commandinff  —  Sherard  Osbom. 
Second  Master  —  J.  H.  AUard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  F.  R.  Picthom. 

Assistance. 
Captain  —  E.  Ommaney. 
Lieutenants  —  J.  E.  EUiot,  F.  L.  M'Olintock,  and 

G.  F.  Mecham. 
Surgeon  —  J.  J.  L.  Donnett 
Assistant,  ditto —  J.  Ward,  (a.) 
Mates  —  R.  Y.  Hamilton,  and  J.  R.  Keane. 
Clerk  in  Charge — E.  N.  Harrison. 
Second  Master  —  W.  B.  SheUabear. 
Midshipman  —  C.  R.  Markham. 

Total  complement,  60  men. 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  RESOLUTE  AND  ASfllSTANCE,  ETC.     315 

Intrepidy  screw  stcamor. 
Lieut.-Commander — B.  Cator. 
Eacli  of  the  tenders  had  a  crew  of  30  men. 

Two  ol  the  officers  amwintcd  to  this  expedition,  Lieu- 
tenants lirowne  and  M  Clintock,  were  in  tlie  Enterprise 
under  (Japtain  Sir  James  0.  Iloss  in  1848. 

The  Kmma  Eugenia  transport  was  dispatched  in  ad- 
vance with  provisions  to  tlie  Whale-Fish  Islands,  to  await 
tlie  arrival  of  the  expedition. 

It  liaving  been  suggested  by  Bome  parties  that  Sir 
John  Franklin  might  have  effected  his  passage  to  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  been  detained  there  with  nis  ships, 
or  that  tlie  ships  might  have  been  damaged  by  the  ice 
in  the  neighboring  sea,  and  tliat  with  his  crews  he  had 
abandoneu  them  and  made  his  escape  to  that  island, 
(Japtain  Austin  was  specially  instructed  to  use  every 
exertion  to  reach  this  island,  detaching  a  portion  of  his 
fillips  to  search  the  shores  of  Wellington  Channel  and 
tlie  coast  about  Cape  Walker,  to  which  ix)int  Sir  John 
Franklin  was  ordered  to  proceed. 

Advices  were  first  received  from  the  Assistance,  after 
her  departure,  dated  5th  of  July ;  she  was  then  making 
tier  way  to  the  northward.  The  season  was  less  favor- 
a])le  for  exploring  operations  than  on  many  previous 
years.  But  little  ice  had  been  met  with  in  Davis' 
Dtrait,  where  it  is  generally  found  in  large  quantities, 
so  that  obstacles  ot  a  serious  nature  may  be  expected 
to  the  northward.  Penny's  shij)8  had  been  in  company 
with  them. 

Ice  is  an  insunnountable  barrier  to  rapid  progress ; 
fortifications  may  be  breached,  but  huge  masses  of  ice, 
200  to  600  feet  high,  are  not  to  be  overcome. 

On  the  2d  of  July  the  Assistance  was  towed  beneath 
a  perpendicular  clifr  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Shackle- 
ton,  rising  to  the  height  of  1500  feet,  which  was  ob- 
served to  oe  crowded  with  the  foolish  guillemots,  ( Uria 
troile.)  When  the  ship  hooked  on  to  an  iceberg  for  the 
night,  a  party  sent  on  shore  for  the  purpose  brought  off 
260  birds  and  about  twenty  dozen  of  their  eggs.  These 
birds  only  lay  one  egg  each.     ,^ 


')- 


'I 


316 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


The  following  official  dispatch  has  been  since  received 
from  Captain  Oramaney : — 

^''Her  Majesty^  8  ship  ''Assistance^  off  Lancaster  Sounds 
latitude  75°  46'  iV^.,  longitude  75°  49'  TF.,  August 
17,  1850. 

"Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  in- 
formation of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty, that  her  Majesty's  ship  Assistance,  and  her  tender, 
her  Majesty's  steam-vessel  Intrepid,  have  this  day  suc- 
ceeded in  effecting  a  passage  across  to  the  west  water, 
and  are  now  proceeding  to  Lancaster  Sound.  Officers 
and  crews  all  well,  with  fine  clear  weather,  and  open 
water  as  far  as  can  be  seen. 

"  Agreeably  with  instructions  received  from  Captain 
H.  Austin,  we  parted  company  on  the  15th  instant,  at 
one  A.  M.,  off  Cape  Dudley  Biggs,  as  the  ice  was  then 
sufficiently  open  to  anticipate  no  farther  obstruction  in 
effecting  the  north  passage.  He  was  anxious  to  proceed 
to  Pond's  Bay,  and  thence  take  up  the  examination  along 
the  south  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound,  leaving  me  to 
ascertain  the  truth  of  a  report  obtained  from  the  Esqui- 
maux at  Cape  York  respecting  some  ship  or  ships  hav- 
ing been  seen  near  Wolstenholme  Island,  after  which  to 
proceed  to  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel. 

"  On  passing  Cape  York,  (the  14th  inst.,)  natives  were 
seen.  By  the  directions  of  Captain  Austin  I  landed, 
and  communicated  with  them,  when  we  were  informed 
that  they  had  seen  a  ship  in  that  neighborhood  in  the 
spring,  and  that  she  was  housed  in.  Upon  this  intelli- 
gence I  shipped  one  of  the  natives,  who  volunteered  to 
join  us  as  interpreter  and  guide. 

"On  parting  with  Captain  Austin  we  proceeded 
toward  Wolstenholme  Island,  where  I  left  the  ship  and 
proceeded  in  her  Majesty's  steam- vessel  Intrepid  into 
Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  by  the  guidance  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, succeeded  in  finding  a  bay  about  thirteen  miles 
further  in,  and  sheltered  by  a  prominent  headland.  In 
the  cairns  erected  here  we  found  a  document  stating 


.,i^v»- 


-  ^-vr-cv'-'Trv-JiP^"^'-  ■-  :^' 


VOYAQR   OF  THE  RESOLUTE    AND    ASSISTANCE,  ETC.    317 

that  the  KorUi  Star  had  wintered  in  the  bay,  a  copy 
of  which  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  to  their  Lord- 
ships. 

"  Previous  to  searchinff  the  spot  where  the  North  Star 
wintered,  I  examined  the  deserted  Esquimaux  settle- 
ment. At  this  spot  we  found  evident  traces  of  some 
ship  having  been  in  the  neighborhood,  from  empty  pre- 
served meat  canisters  and  some  clothes  left  near  a  pool 
C'f  water,  marked  with  the  name  of  a  coi'poral  belonging 
to  the  North  Star. 

"  Having  ascertained  this  satisfactory  information,  I 
returned  to  Wolstenholme  Island,  where  a  document  was 
deposited  recording  our  proceed inijs.  At  6  a.  m.,  of  the 
16th  inst,  I  rejoined  the  ship,  and  proceeded  at  two  to 
the  westward,  and  am  happy  to  intbrm  you  that  the 
passage  across  has  been  made  without  obstruction,  tow- 
ing through  loose  and  strangling  ice. 

"The  expedition  was  beset  in  Melville  Bay,  sur- 
rounded by  heavy  and  extensive  floes  of  ice,  from  the 
11th  of  July  to  the  9th  of  August,  1850,  when,  after 
threat  exertion,  a  release  was  effected,  and  we  succeeded 
m  reaching  Cape  York  by  continuing  along  the  edge  of 
the  land-ice,  after  which  we  have  been  fevored  with 
plenty  of  water. 

"  Captain  Penny's  expedition  was  in  company  during 
the  most  part  of  the  time  while  in  Melville  Bay,  and  up 
to  the  14th  inst.,  when  we  left  him  off  Cape  Dudley 
Diggs  —  all  well. 

"In  crossing  Melville  Bay  we  fell  in  with  Sir  John 
Ross  and  Captain  Forsyth's  expeditions.  These  Capt. 
Austin  has  assisted  by  towing  them  toward  their  desti- 
nations. The  latter  proceedea  with  him,  and  the  former 
has  remained  with  us. 

"  Having  placed  Sir  John  Ross  in  a  fair  way  of 
reaching  Lancaster  Sound,  with  a  fair  wind  and  open 
water,  his  vessel  has  been  cast  off  in  this  position.  1 
shall,  therefore,  proceed  with  all  dispatch  to  the  exami- 
nation of  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel,  according  to  Captain  Austin's 
directions. 


I 


I 


318 


rROGKESS  OF   AUCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


"I  have  the  honor  to  be,  Sir,  your  most  obedient 
humble  servant. 

"Erasmus  Ommaney,  Captain." 

The  Resolute  got  clear  of  the  Orkneys  on  the  15th  of 
May,  and  arrived  with  her  consort  and  the  two  tenders 
at  the  Whale-Fish  Islands  on  the  14th  of  June. 

The  Resolute  was  in  Possession  Bay  on  the  17th  of 
August.  From  thence  her  proposed  course  was  along 
the  coast,  northward  and  westward,  to  "Whaler  Point, 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Port  Leopold,  and 
afterward  to  Melville  Island. 

In  order  to  amuse  themselves  and  their  comrades,  the 
ofl&cers  of  the  Assistance  had  started  a  MS.  newspaper, 
under  the  name  of  the  "  Aurora  Borealis."  Many  of 
my  readers  will  have  heard  of  the  "  Cockpit  Herald," 
and  such  other  productions  of  former  days,  in  his  Majes- 
ty's fleet.  Parry,  too,  liad  his  journal  to  beguile  the 
long  hours  of  the  tedious  arctic  winter. 

I  have  seen  copies  of  this  novel  specimen  of  the 

'fourth  estate,"  dated  Baffin's  Bay,  June,  1850,  in  which 

there  is  a  happy  mixture  of  grave  and  gay,  prose  and 

verse  ;  numerous  very  fair  acrostics  are  published.    I 

append,  by  way  of  curiosity,  a  couple  of  extracts  : — 

"  What  insect  that  Noah  had  with  him,  were  these 
regions  named  after  ?  — ^The  arc-tic." 

"  To  the  editor  of  the  Aurora  Borealis. 

"  Sra, —  Having  heard  from  an  arctic  voyager  that  he 
has  seen  *  crows'-nests'  in  those  icy  regions,  I  beg  to 
inquire  through  your  columns,  if  they  are  built  by  the 
crows,  {Corvua  tintinnahulus^  which  Goodsir  states  to 
utter  a  metallic  bell-like  croak  ?  My  fast  friend  tegs 
me  to  inquire  when  rook  shooting  commences  in  those 
diggings  ? 

"  A  !N"aturat.i8t. 

["  We  would  recommend  to  *  A  IS'aturalist '  a  visit  to 
these  '  crows'-nests,'  which  do  exist  in  the  arctic  regions. 
We  would  also  advise  his  fast  friend  to  investigate 


VOYAGE  OF  SIR  JOHN   ROSS   IN  THE   FELIX,   ETC.    319 

these  said  nests  more  thoroughly ;  he  would  find  them 
tenanted  by  very  old  birds  (ice  quarter-masters,)  who 
would  not  only  inform  him  as  to  the  species  of  crows 
and  the  sporting  season,  but  would  give  them  a  fair 
chance  of  showing  him  how  a  pigeon  may  be  plucked. 
—  Editor."] 

YoYAGK  OF  Captain  Sir  John  Boss  in  the  "Felix" 
PRIVATE  Schooner,  1850-61. 

In  April,  1850,  Captain  Sir  John  Eoss  having  vol- 
unteered his  services  to  proceed  in  the  search,  was  en- 
abled, by  the  liberality  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
who  contributed  500^.,  and  public  subscription,  to  leave 
England  in  the  Felix  schooner,  of  120  tons,  with  a 
picked  crew,  and  accompanied  by  Commander  C.  Ger- 
vans  Phillips,  R.  N.  She  also  had  the  Mary,  Sir  John's 
own  yacht  of  twelve  tons,  as  a  tender.  Mr.  Abernethy 
proceeded  as  ice-master,  having  accompanied  Sir  John 
in  his  former  voyage  to  Boothia;  and  Mr.  Sivewright 
was  mate  of  the  Felix.  The  vessels  sailed  from  Scot- 
land on  the  23d  of  May,  and  reached  Holsteinborg  in 
June,  where  Captain  Ross  succeeded  in  obtaining  a 
Danish  interpreter  who  understood  the  Esquimaux 
language ;  he  then  proceeded  on,  calling  at  the  Whale- 
Fish  Islands,  and  passing  northway  through  the  Way- 
gatt  Strait,  overtook,  on  the  10th  of  August,  H.  M. 
ships  Assistance  and  Resolute,  with  their  tenders  the 
Intrepid  and  Pioneer,  under  the  command  of  Caplain 
Austin. 

On  the  13th  of  August,  Captain  Ommaney  in  the 
Assistance,  and  Sir  John  Ross  in  the  Felix,  being 
somewhere  off  Cape  York,  observed  three  male  Es- 
(juimaux  on  the  ice  close  by,  and  with  these  people 
it  was  prudently  resolved  to  communicate.  Accord- 
ingly, Lieutenant  Cator  in  the  Intrepid  steamer,  tender 
to  the  Assistance,  and  Commander  Phillips  in  the 
whale-boat  of  the  Felix,  put  off  on  this  service.  The 
Intrepid's  people  arrived  first,  but  apparently  witliout 
any  means  of  expressing  their  desires,  so  that  when  the 


320 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


boat  of  the  Felix,  containing  an  Esquimaux  interpreter, 
joined  the  party,  the  natives  immediately  gave  signs 
of  recognition  and  satisfaction,  came  into  the  boat  with- 
out the  least  hesitation,  and  engaged  themselves  pre- 
sently in  a  long  and  animated  conversation  with  theii 
countryman  the  interpreter.  Half  an  hour  was  de- 
voted to  this  interchange  of  intelligence,  but  with  no 
immediate  result,  for  the  interpreter  could  only  trans- 
late his  native  language  into  Danish,  and  as  no  person 
in  the  boat  understood  Danish,  the  informal  on  re- 
mained as  inaccessible  as  before.  In  this  predicament 
the  boats  returned  with  the  intention  of  confronting  the 
interpreter — whose  christianized  name  is  Adam  Beek 
—  with  Sir  John  Ross  himself.  As  iSir  John,  however, 
was  pushing  ahead  in  the  Felix  toward  Cape  Dudley 
Diggs,  and  as  Adam  appeared  anxious  to  disburden 
himself  of  his  newly  acquired  information,  the  boats 
dropped  on  board  the  rrince  Albert,  another  of  the 
exploring  vessels  in  the  neighborhood,  and  there  put 
Adam  in  communication  with  the  captain's  steward, 
John  Smith,  who  "  understood  a  little  oi  the  language," 
as  Sir  John  Ross  says,  or  "a  good  deal,"  as  Com- 
mander Phillips  says,  and  who  presently  gave  such  aD 
account  of  the  intelligence  as  startled  every  body  on 
board.  Its  purport  was  as  follows; — ^That  in  the  win- 
ter of  1846,  when  the  snow  was  falling,  two  ships  were 
crushed  bv  the  ice  a  good  way  off  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  and  afterward  burned  by  a  fierce 
and  numerous  tribe  of  natives ;  that  the  ships  in  ques- 
tion were  not  whalers,  and  that  epaulettes  were  worn 
by  some  of  the  white  men ;  that  a  part  of  the  crews 
were  drowned,  that  the  remainder  were  some  time  in 
huts  or  tents  apart  from  the  natives,  that  they  had  guns, 
but  no  balls,  and  that  being  in  a  weak  and  exhausted 
condition,  they  were  subsequently  killed  by  the  natives 
with  darts  or  arrows.  This  was  the  form  given  to  the 
Esquimaux  story  by  John  Smith,  captain's  steward  of 
the  Prince  Albert.  Impressed  with  the  iniportance  of 
these  tidings,  Captain  Ommaney  and  Commander 
Phillips  immediately  made  their  report  to  Captain 


VOYAGE  OF   SIR  JOHN   R0B8   IN   THE   FELIX,   ETC.     321 


Austin  in  the  Resolute,  which  was  then  in  company 
with  the  Felix  near  Cape  Dudley  Diggs.  Captain  Aus- 
tin at  once  decided  upon  investigating  the  credibility 
of  the  story,  and  with  this  view  dispatched  a  message 
to  the  Lady  Franklin,  another  of  the  exploring  ships, 
which  lay  a  few  miles  off,  and  which  had  on  board  a 
regular  Danish  interpreter.  This  interpreter  duly  ar- 
rived, but  proceeded  forthwith  to  translate  the  story  by 
a  statement  "  totally  at  variance  "  with  the  interpreta- 
tion of  "  the  other,"  whom,  as  we  are  told,  he  called  a 
liar  and  intimidated  into  silence ;  though  no  sooner  was 
the  latter  left  to  himself  than  he  again  repeated  his 
version  of  the  tale,  and  stoutly  maintained  its  accuracy. 
Meantime  an  additional  piece  of  information  became 
known,  namely,  that  a  certain  ship  had  passed  the  win- 
ter safely  housed  in  Wolstenholme  Sound  —  a  state- 
ment soon  ascertained  by  actual  investigation  to  be 
perfectly  true.  The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter 
from  — 

Captain  Sir  John  Hoss,  R.  iV.,  to  Captain  W.  A.B, 
Mamilton^  R.  iT.,  Secreta/ry  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  *  Felix '  discovery  yacht^  off  Admiralty  Inlet^ 
"  Lancaster  Sounds  August  22. 

"  Sm, —  I  have  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  information 
of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  that  the 
Felix  discovery  yacht,  with  her  tender,  the  Mary,  after 
obtaining  an  Esquimaux  interpreter  at  Holsteinborg, 
and  calling  at  "Whale-Fish  Islands,  proceeded  north  way 
through  the  Waygatt  Straits,  and  overtook  her  Ma- 
jesty's discovery  ships,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Austin  on  the  11th  of  August ;  and  on  the  12th  the 
senior  oflScer  and  the  second  in  command  having  cor- 
dially communicated  with  me  on  the  best  mode  of 
performing  the  service  on  which  we  are  mutually  em- 
barked, arrangements  were  made  and  concluded  for  a 
simultaneous  examination  of  every  part  of  the  eastern 
side  of  a  northwest  passage  in  which  it  was  probable 
that  the  missing  ships  coiud  be  bound :  documents  t » 


4 
J'' 


822 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


'^, 


that  effect  were  exchanged,  and  subsequently  assented 
to  by  Captains  Forsyth  and  Penny. 

"  On  the  13th  of  August  natives  were  discovered  on 
the  ice  near  to  Cape  lork,  with  whom  it  was  deemed 
advisable  to  communicate.  On  this  service,  Lieutenant 
Cator,  in  the  In'repid,  was  detached  on  the  part  of 
Captain  Austin,  and  on  my  part  Commander  Phillips, 
witn  our  Esquimaux  interpreter,  in  the  whale-boat  of 
the  Felix.  It  was  found  by  Lieutenant  Cator  that  Cap- 
tain Penny  had  left  with  the  natives  a  note  for  Captain 
Austin,  but  only  relative  to  the  state  of  the  navigation ; 
however,  when  Commander  Phillips  arrived,  the  Esqui- 
maux, seeing  one  apparently  of  their  own  nation  in  the 
whale-boat,  came  immediately  to  him,  when  a  Ions 
conversation  took  place,  the  purport  of  which  could 
not  be  made  known,  as  the  interpreter  could  not  ex- 
plain himself  to  any  one,  either  in  the  Intrepid  or  the 
whale-boat,  (as  he  understands  only  the  Danish  besides 
his  own  language,)  until  he  was  brought  on  board  the 
Prince  Albert,  where  John  Smith,  the  captain's  stew- 
ard of  that  vessel,  who  had  been  some  years  at  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlement  of  Churchill,  and  understands 
a  little  of  the  language,  was  able  to  give  some  expla- 
nation of  Adam  Beck's  information,  which  was  deemed 
of  such  importance  that  Captains  Ommaney,  Phillips, 
and  Forsyth,  proceeded  in  the  Intrepid  to  the  Resolute, 
when  it  was  decided  by  Captain  Austin  to  send  for  the 
Danish  Interpreter  of  the  Lady  Franklin,  which,  hav- 
ing been  unsuccessful  in  an  attempt  at  getting  through 
the  ice  to  the  westward,  was  only  a  few  miles  distant. 
In  the  mean  time  it  was  known  that,  in  addition  to  the 
first  information,  a  ship,  which  could  only  be  the  North 
Star,  had  wintered  in  W  olstenholme  Sound,  called  by 
the  natives  Ourinak,  and  had  only  left  it  a  month  ago. 
This  proved  to  be  true,  but  the  interpretation  of  the 
Dane  was  totally  at  variance  with  the  information  given 
by  the  other,  who,  although  for  obvious  reasons  he  did 
not  dare  to  contradict  the  Dane,  subsequently  main- 
tained the  truth  of  his  statement,  which  induced  Cap- 
tain Austin  to  dispatch  the  Intrepid  with  Captains 


VOYAGE   OF  Sm  JOHN    ROSS    IN   TIIE   FELIX,    ETC.     323 

Ommaney  and  Phillips,  taking  with  them  both  onr  in- 
terpreters, Adam  Beek  and  a  young  native  who  had 
been  persuaded  to  come  as  one  of  the  crew  of  the  As- 
sistance, to  examine  Wolstenholme  Sound.  In  the 
mean  time  it  had  been  unanimously  decided  that  no 
alteration  should  be  made  in  our  previous  arrangement, 
it  being  obvious  that  while  there  remained  a  chance  of 
saving  the  lives  of  those  of  the  missing  ships  who  may 
be  yet  alive,  a  further  search  for  those  who  had  per- 
ished should  be  postponed,  and  accordingly  the  Reso- 
lute, Pioneer,  and  Prince  Albert  parted  company  on 
the  15th.  It  is  here  unnecessary  to  give  the  ofhcial  re- 
ports made  to  me  by  Commanaer  Phillips,  which  are 
of  course  transmitted  by  me  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which,  with  the  information 
written  in  the  Esquimaux  language  by  Adam  Beek, 
will  no  doubt  be  sent  to  you  for  their  Lordships'  infor- 
mation ;  and  it  will  be  manifest  by  these  reports  that 
Commander  Phillips  has  performed  his  duty  with  sa- 
f^acity,  circumspection,  and  address,  which  do  him  in- 
finite credit,  altnough  it  is  only  such  as  I  must  have 
expected  from  so  intelligent  an  officer;  and  I  have 
much  satisfaction  in  adding  that  it  has  been  mainly 
owing  to  his  zeal  and  activity  that  I  was  able,  under 
disadvanta<re'  us  circumstances,  to  overtake  her  Majes- 
ty's ships,  waile  by  his  scientific  acquirements  and  ac- 
curacy in  surveying,  he  has  been  able  to  make  many 
important  corrections  and  valuable  additions  to  the 
charts  of  the  much-frequented  eastern  side  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  .^hich  has  been  more  closely  observed  and  navi- 
gated by  us  than  by  any  former  expedition,  and,  much 
to  my  satisfaction,  confirming  the  latitude  aud  longi- 
tude of  every  headland  I  had  an  opportunity  of  laying 
down  in  the  year  1818. 

"  I  have  only  to  add  that  I  have  much  satisfaction 
in  co-operating  with  her  Majesty's  expedition.  "With 
such  support  and  with  such  vessels  so  particularly 
adapted  for  the  service,  no  exertion  shall  be  wanting 
on  my  part.  But  I  cannot  conclude  this  letter  without 
acknowledging  my  obligations  to  Commodore  Austin 


3i4 


TROGUESS   OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


and  Captain  Ommaney  for  tho  assistance  they  have  af- 
forded me,  and  for  tho  cordiality  and  courtesy  with 
which  I  have  been  treated  by  these  distinguished  offi- 
cers and  others  of  the  ships  under  their  orders.  Ani- 
mated as  we  are  with  an  ardent  and  sincere  desire  to 
rescue  our  imperiled  countrymen,  I  confidently  trust 
;hat  our  unitea  exertions  and  humble  endeavors  nia}^ 
mder  a  merciful  Providence,  be  completely  successful, 
"I  am,  with  truth  and  regard,  Sir,  your  faithful  and 
obedient  servant, 

"John  Ross,  Captain,  E.  N." 

By  the  accounts  brought  home  by  Commander  For- 
syth from  Lancaster  Sound,  to  the  25th  of  August,  it 
is  stated  that  Sir  John  Eoss,  in  the  Felix,  intended  to 
return  to  England. 

The  ice  was  at  that  period  very  heavy,  extending  all 
around  from  Leopold  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Regent 
Inlet,  to  Cape  Farewell,  to  the  westward,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  possibility  of  any  of  the  vessels  pushing  on  to 
Cape  Walker.  When  the  Prince  Albert  was  between 
Cape  Spencer  and  Cape  Innes,  in  "Wellington  Channel, 
Mr.  Snow  went  at  noon  to  the  mast-head,  and  saw  II. 
M.  Ship  Assistance  as  near  as  possible  within  Cape 
Hotham,  under  a  press  of  sail.  Her  tender,  the  In- 
trepid, was  not  seen,  but  was  believed  to  be  with  her. 
Captain  Penny,  with  his  two  ships,  the  Lady  Franklin 
and  Sophia,  was  endeavoring  to  make  his  way  up  the 
same  Channel,  but  it  was  feared  the  ice  would  ulti- 
mately be  too  strong  for  him,  and  that  he  would  have 
to  return  home,  leaving  Captain  Austin^s  squadron  only 
to  winter  in  the  ice. 

The  American  man-of-war  brig  Rescue  was  close  be 
set  with  the  ice  near  Cape  Bowen. 

The  Pioneer  was  with  the  Resolute  on  the  17th 
August. 


LADY  franklin's  API'EAL  TO  AMERICAN  NATION.    325 


A  fERICAN    SeARCHINO    EXPEDITION. UnITED    StATES' 

^iiips,  "  Advance  "  and  "  Rescue,"  under  the  Com- 
mand OF  Lieutenant  De  Haven,  1860-51. 

In  the  spring  of  1849,  Lady  Franklin  made  a  touch- 
ing and  pathetic  appeal  to  the  feelings  of  the  American 
nation,  in  the  following  letter  to  the  President  of  the 
Republic :  — 

The  Lady  of  Sir  John  Franhlin  to  the  President. 

^^ Bedford-place^  London^  ^th  Aprils  1849. 

"Sir, —  I  address  myself  to  you  as  the  head  of  a 
great  nation,  whose  power  to  help  me  I  cannot  doubt, 
and  in  whose  disposition  to  do  so  I  have  a  confidence 
which  I  trust  you  will  not  deem  presumptuous. 

"The  name  of  my  husband.  Sir  John  Franklin,  is 
probably  not  unknown  to  you.  It  is  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  northern  part  of  that  continent  of 
which  the  American  republic  forms  so  vast  and  con- 
spicuous a  portion.  When  I  visited  the  United  States 
three  years  ago,  among  the  many  proofs  I  received  of 
respect  and  courtesy,  there  was  none  which  touched 
and  even  surprised  me  more  than  the  appreciation 
everywhere  expressed  to  me  of  his  former  services  in 
geographical  discovery,  and  the  interest  felt  in  the  en- 
terprise in  which  he  was  then  known  to  be  engaged." 


* 


« 


•» 


[Her  ladyship  here  gives  the  details  of  the  departure 

of  the  expedition,  and  the  measures  already  taken  for 

its  relief.] 

*  «  «  «  * 

"  I  have  entered  into  these  details  with  the  view  of 
proving  that,  though  the  British  government  has  not 
forgotten  the  duty  it  owes  to  the  brave  men  whom  it 
has  sent  on  a  perilous  service,  and  has  spent  a  very 
large  sum  in  providing  the  means  for  their  rescue,  yet 
that,  owing  to  various  causes,  the  means  actually  in 
operation  for  this  purpose  are  quite  inadequate  to  meet 
the   extreme  exigence  of  the  case ;   for,  it  mast  bo 


'it 


326 


PROGRESS  OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVERY. 


remembered,  that  the  missing  ships  were  victualed  for 
three  years  only,  and  that  nearly  four  years  have  now 
elapsed,  so  that  the  survivors  of  so  many  winters  in  the 
ice  must  be  at  the  last  extremity.  And  also,  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  channels  by  which  the  ships 
may  have  attempted  to  force  a  passage  to  the  westward, 
or  which  they  may  have  been  compelled,  by  adverse 
circumstances,  to  take,  are  very  numerous  and  compli- 
cated, and  that  one  or  two  ships  cannot  possibly,  in  the 
course  of  the  next  short  summer,  explore  them  all. 

"  The  Board  of  Admiralty,  under  a  conviction  of  this 
fact,  has  been  induced  to  offer  a  reward  of  20,000/. 
sterling  to  any  ship  or  ships,  of  any  country,  or  to  any 
explormg  party  wnatever,  which  shall  render  efficient 
assistance  to  the  missing  ships,  or  their  crews,  or  to  any 
portion  of  them.  This  announcement,  which,  even  if 
the  sum  had  been  doubled  or  trebled,  would  have  met 
with  public  approbation,  comes,  however,  too  late  for 
our  whalers,  which  had  unfortunately  sailed  before  it 
was  issued,  and  which,  even  if  the  news  should  over- 
take them  at  their  fishing-grounds,  are  totally  unfitted 
for  any  prolonged  adventure,  having  only  a  few  months' 
provision  on  board,  and  no  additional  clothing.  To  the 
American  whalers,  both  in  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  I 
look  with  more  hope,  as  competitors  for  the  prize,  be- 
ing well  aware  of  their  numoers  and  strength,  their 
thorough  equipment,  and  the  bold  spirit  of  enterprise 
which  animates  their  crews.  But  1  venture  to  look 
even  beyond  these.  I  am  not  without  hope  that  you 
will  deem  it  not  unworthy  of  a  great  and  kindred  na- 
tion to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  which  I  plead,  in 
a  national  spirit,  and  thus  generously  make  it  your  own. 

"  I  must  nere,  in  gratitude,  adduce  the  example  of 
the  imperial  Russian  government,  which,  as  I  am  led 
to  hope  by  his  Excellency,  the  Eussian  embassador  in 
London,  who  forwarded  a  memorial  on  the  subject,  will 
send  out  exploring  parties  this  summer,  from  the  Asiatic 
side  of  Behrinff's  Strait,  northward,  in  search  of  the 
lost  vessels.  It  would  be  a*  noble  spectacle  to  the 
World,  if  three  great  nations,  possessed  of  the  widest 


LADY  franklin's   APPEAL  TO   AMERICAN  NATION.    327 


empires  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  were  thus  to  unite 
their  efforts  in  the  truly  christian  work  of  saving  their 
perishing  fellow-men  from  destruction. 

"  It  is  not  for  me  to  suggest  the  mode  in  which  such 
benevolent  efforts  might  best  bo  made.  1  will  only  say, 
however,  that  if  the  conceptions  of  my  own  mind,  to 
which  I  do  not  venture  to  give  utterance,  were  realized, 
and  that  in  the  noble  competition  which  followed,  Amer- 
ican seamen  had  the  good  fortune  to  wrest  from  us  the 
glory,  as  might  be  the  case,  of  solving  the  problem  of 
the  unfound  passage,  or  the  still  greater  glory  of  saving 
our  adventurous  navigators  from  a  lingering  fate  which 
the  mind  sickens  to  dwell  on,  though  i  should  in  either 
case  regret  that  it  was  not  my  own  brave  countrymen 
in  those  seas  whose  devotion  was  thus  rewarded,  yet 
should  I  rejoice  that  it  was  to  America  we  owed  our 
restored  happiness,  and  should  be  forever  bound  to  her 
by  ties  of  affectionate  gratitude. 

"  I  am  not  without  some  misgivings  while  I  thus  ad- 
dress you.    The  intense  anxieties  of  a  wife  and  of  a 
daughter  may  have  led  me  to  press  too  earnestly  on 
your  notice  the  trials  under  which  we  are  suffering, 
(yet  not  we  only,  but  hundreds  of  others,)  and  to  pre- 
sume too  much  on  the  sympathy  which  we  are  assured 
is  felt  beyond  the  limits  of  our  own  land.    Yet,  if 
you  deem  this  to  be  the  case,  you  will  still  find,  I  am 
sure,  even  in  that  personal  intensity  of  feeling,  an 
excuse  for  the  fearlessness  wifh  which  I  have  throwit 
myself  on  your  generosity,  and  will  pardon  the  hom 
age  I  thus  pay  to  your  own  high  character,  and  to  thr 
of  the  people  over  whom  you  have  the  distinction  t^ 
preside.  "  I  have,  &c., 

(Signed)  "Janz  Fbanklin." 

To  which  the  following  reply  was  received  : — 

Mr,  Cla/yton  to  Lady  Jcme  Franklin. 

'''' Depa/rtment  of  State^  Washington^ 
"  25^A  April,  1849. 

"Madam, — ^Your  letter  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  dated  April  4th,  1849,  has  been  received  by 


'I 


328 


rROORKSa    OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


liim,  and  ho  has  instructed  me  to  make  to  you  the  fol- 
low ini^  reply  : — 

"  The  api)eal  made  in  the  letter  with  which  you  have 
honored  him,  is  such  as  would  strongly  enlist  the  sym- 
pathy of  the  rulers  and  the  people  of  any  portion  of 
the  civilized  world. 

"  To  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who  share  so 
largely  in  the  emotions  which  agitate  the  public  mind 
in  your  own  country,  the  name  of  Sir  John  Franklin 
has  been  endeared  by  his  heroic  virtues,  and  the  sufter- 
ings  and  sacrifices  which  he  has  encountered  for  the 
benefit  of  mankind.  The  appeal  of  his  wife  and  daugh- 
ter, in  their  distress,  has  been  borne  across  the  waters, 
asking  the  assistance  of  a  kindred  people  to  save  the 
brave  men  who  embarked  in  this  unfortunate  expedi- 
tion ;  and  the  people  of  the  United  States,  who  have 
watched  with  the  deepest  interest  that  hazardous  enter- 
prise, will  now  respond  to  that  appeal,  by  the  expression 
of  their  united  wishes  that  every  proper  effort  may  bo 
made  by  this  government  for  the  rescue  of  your  hus- 
band and  his  companions. 

"  To  accomplish  the  objects  you  have  in  view,  the 
attention  of  American  navigators,  and  especially  of 
our  whalers,  will  be  immediately  invoked.  All  the  in- 
formation in  the  possession  of  this  government,  to 
enable  them  to  aid  in  discovering  the  missing  ships, 
relieving  their  crews  and  restoring  them  to  their  fami- 
lies, shall  be  spread  far  and  wide  among  our  people ; 
and  all  that  the  executive  government  of  the  United 
States,  in  the  exercise  of  its  constitutional  powers,  can 
effect,  to  meet  this  requisition  on  American  enterprise, 
skill  and  bravery,  will  be  promptly  undertaken. 

"  The  hearts  of  the  American  people  will  bo  deeply 
touched  by  your  eloquent  address  to  their  Chief  Magis- 
trate, and  they  will  join  with  you  in  an  earnest  prayer 
to  Ilim  whose  spirit  is  on  the  waters,  that  your  husband 
and  his  companions  may  yet  be  restored  to  their  coun- 
try and  their  friends. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  "  John  M.  Clayton." 


LADY  FUANKLIN  8  AITEAL  TO  AMERICAN  NATION.    329 

A  second  letter  wfts  also  addressed  by  Lady  Franklin 
to  the  President  in  the  close  of  that  year,  after  the  forced 
return  of  Captain  Sir  James  Koss,  from  whose  activo 
exertions  so  much  had  been  expected  — 

The  Lady  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to  the  President. 
"  Spring  Gardens^  London^  Wth  Dec.^  1849. 

"Sir, —  I  had  the  honor  of  addressing  myself  to 
you,  in  the  month  of  April  last,  in  behalf  of  my  hus- 
band, Sir  John  Franklin,  his  otiicers  and  crews,  who 
were  sent  by  Her  Majesty's  government,  in  the  spring 
of  1845,  on  a  maritime  expedition  for  a  discovery  ot 
the  northwest  passage,  and  who  have  never  since  been 
heard  of. 

"Their  mysterious  fate  has  excited,  I  believe,  tho 
deepest  interest  throughout  the  civilized  world,  but  no- 
where more  so,  not  even  in  England  itself,  than  in  tho 
United  States  of  America.  It  was  under  a  deep  con- 
viction of  this  fact,  and  with  the  humble  hope  tnat  an 
a]ipeal  to  those  general  sentiments  would  never  l»o 
made  altogether  in  vain,  that  I  ventured  to  lay  before 
you  the  necessities  of  that  critical  period,  and  to  ask 
yon  to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  which  I  pleaded, 
and  £;enerousIv  make  it  your  own. 

"  How  nobly  you,  sir,  and  the  American  people, 
responded  to  that  appeal,  —  how  kindly  and  courteously 
tliat  response  was  conveyed  to  me, — is  known  wherever 
our  common  language  is  spoken  or  understood ;  and 
though  difRculties,  which  were  mainly  owing  to  the 
advanced  state  of  the  season,  presented  themselves  after 
your  official  announcement  had  been  made  known  to  our 
government,  and  prevented  the  immediate  execution  of 
your  intentions,  yet  tho  generous  pledge  you  had  given 
was  not  altogether  withdrawn,  and  hope  still  remained 
to  me  that,  should  the  necessity  for  renewed  measures 
continue  to  exist,  I  might  look  again  across  the  waters 
for  the  needed  succor. 

"  A  period  has  now,  alas,  arrived,  when  our  dearest 
hopes  as  to  the  safe  return  of  the  discovery  ships  this 
autumn  are  finally  crushed  by  the  unexpected,  though 

15 


^ 


330 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


forced  return  of  Sir  James  Koss,  without  any  tidings  of 
them,  and  also  by  the  close  of  the  arctic  season.  And 
not  only  have  no  tidings  been  brought  of  their  safety  or 
of  their  fate,  but  even  the  very  traces  of  their  course 
have  yet  to  be  discovered  ;  for  such  was  the  concur- 
rence of  unfortunate  and  unusual  circumstances  attend- 
ing the  eflForts  of  the  brave  and  able  officer  alluded  to, 
that  he  was  not  able  to  reach  those  points  where  indi- 
cations of  the  course  of  discovery  ships  would  most 
probably  be  found.  And  thus,  at  the  close  of  a  second 
season  since  the  departure  of  the  recent  expedition  of 
search,  we  remain  in  nearly  the  same  state  of  ignorance 
respecting  the  missing  expedition  as  at  the  moment  of 
its  starting  from  our  shores.  And  in  the  mean  time  our 
brave  countrymen,  whether  clinging  still  to  their  ships, 
or  dispersed  in  various  directions,  have  entered  upon  a 
fifth  winter  in  those  dark  and  dreary  solitudes,  with 
exhausted  means  of  sustenance,  while  yet  their  expected 
succor  comes  not ! 

"  It  is  in  the  time,  then,  of  their  greatest  peril,  in  the 
day  of  their  extremest  need,  that  I  venture,  encouraged 
by  your  former  kindness,  to  look  to  you  again  for  some 
active  efforts  which  may  come  in  aid  of  those  of  my 
own  country,  and  add  to  the  means  of  search.  Her 
Majesty's  Ministers  have  alreadv  resolved  on  sending 
an  expedition  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  doubtless  have 
other  necessary  measures  in  contemplation,  supported 
as  they  are,  in  every  means  that  can  be  devised  for  this 
humane  purpose,  by  the  sympathies  of  the  nation,  and 
by  the  ffenerous  solicitude  which  our  Queen  is  known 
to  feel  in  the  fate  of  her  brave  people  imperiled  in  their 
c<»nntrv's  service.  But,  whatever  be  the  measures  con- 
templ^ced  by  the  Admiralty,  they  cannot  be  such  as 
will  leave  no  room  or  necessity  for  more,  since  it  is 
only  by  the  multiplication  of  means,  and  those  vigorous 
and  instant  ones,  that  we  can  hope,  at  this  last  stage, 
and  in  this  last  hour,  perhaps,  of  the  lost  navigators' 
existence,  to  snatch  them  from  a  dreary  grave.  And 
surely,  till  the  shores  and  seas  of  those  frozen  regions 
have  been  swept  in  all  directions,  or  until  some  memo- 


LIEUTENANT  OSBOBN  S   SUOOESTIONS. 


331 


rial  be  found  to  attest  their  fate,  neither  England,  who 
sent  them  out,  nor  even  America,  on  whose  snores  they 
have  been  launched  in  a  cause  which  has  interested  the 
world  for  centuries,  will  deem  the  question  at  rest 

^'  May  it  please  God  so  to  move  the  hearts  and  wills 
of  a  great  and  kindred  people,  and  of  their  chosen 
Chief  Magistrate,  that  they  may  join  heart  and  hand 
in  the  generous  enterprise  I  The  respect  and  admiration 
of  the  world,  which  watches  with  growing  interest  every 
movement  of  your  great  republic,  will  toUow  the  chiv- 
alric  and  humane  endeavor,  and  the  blessing  of  them 
who  were  ready  to  perish  shall  come  to  you  I 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  Jane  Franklin. 

'•^His  Excellency  the  President  of  the  United  States^ 

In  a  very  admirable  letter  addressed  to  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  February,  1850,  by  Lieut.  Sherard  Osbom,  R.  N., 
occur  the  following  remarks  and  suggestions,  which 
appear  to  me  so  explicit  and  valuable  that  I  publish 
them  entire :  — 

^^  Great  Ealing^  Middlesex^  6th  Eeh'uary,  1850. 

"  My  Dear  Lady  Fbanklin.  —  It  is  of  course  of  vital 
importance  that  the  generous  co-operation  of  the  Ameri- 
cans in  the  rescue  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crews 
be  directed  to  points  which  call  for  search,  and  at  the 
same  time  give  them  a  clear  field  for  the  exercise  of 
their  energy  and  emulation.  It  would  be  a  pity,  for 
instance,  if  they  should  be  merely  working  on  the  same 
ground  with  oureelvcs,  while  extensive  portions  of  the 
Arctic  Sea,  in  which  it  is  equally  probable  the  lost  ex- 
pedition may  be  found,  should  be  left  unexamined  ;  and 
none,  in  my  opinion,  offers  a  better  prospect  of  success- 
ful search  than  the  coasts  of  Bepulse  Bay,  Hecla  and 
Fury  Strait,  Committee  Bay,  Felix  Harbor,  the  estuary 
of  the  Great  Fish  River,  and  Simpson's  Strait,  with  the 
sea  to  the  northwest  of  it.  My  reasons  for  saying  so 
are  as  follows  ;  — 


3S2 


PR0GKES8   OF  AECTIC  DISCOVERY. 


"  Suppose  Sir  John  Franklin  to  have  so  far  carried 
out  the  tenor  of  his  orders  as  to  have  penetrated  south- 
west from  Cape  Walker,  and  to  have  been  either  '  cast 
away,'  or  hopelessly  impeded  by  ice,  and  that  either  in 
the  past  or  present  year  he  found  it  necessary  to  quit 
his  ships,  they  being  anywhere  between  100°  and  108° 
west  longitude,  and  70°  and  73°  north  latitude.  Now, 
to  retrace  his  steps  to  Cape  Walker,  and  thence  to  Re- 
gent Inlet,  would  be  no  doubt  the  first  suggestion  that 
would  arise.  Yet  there  are  objections  to  it :  firstly,  he 
Vi^ould  have  to  contend  against  the  prevailing  set  of  tlio 
ice,  and  currents,  and  northerly  wind  ;  secondly,  if  no 
whalers  were  found  in  Lancaster  Sound,  how  was  he 
to  support  his  large  party  in  regions  where  the  musk 
ox  or  reindeer  is  never  seen?  thirdly,  leaving  hip 
ships  in  the  summer,  he  knew  he  could  only  reacli  the 
whaling  ground  in  the  fall  of  the  year  ;  and,  in  such 
case,  would  it  not  be  advisable  to  make  rather  for 
the  southern  than  the  northern  limit  of  the  seas  vis- 
ited by  the  whalers  ?  fourthly,  by  edging  to  the  south 
rather  than  the  north.  Sir  John  Franklin  would  be 
falling  back  to,  i  ather  than  going  from,  relief,  and  in- 
crease the  probabilities  of  providmg  food  for  his  large 
party. 

"  1  do  not  believe  he  would  have  decided  on  going 
due  south,  because  the  lofty  land  of  Victoria  Island 
was  in  his  road,  and  when  he  did  reach  the  American 
shore,  he  would  only  attain  a  desert,  of  whose  horrors 
he  no  doubt  retained  a  vivid  recollection  ;  and  a 
lengthy  land  journey  of  more  than  1000  miles  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlements  was  more  than  his  men  were 
capable  of. 

"  There  remains,  therefore,  but  one  route  for  Sir  Jolm 
under  such  circumstances  to  follow  ;  and  it  decidedly 
has  the  following  merits,  that  of  being  in  a  direct  line 
for  the  southern  limit  of  the  whale  fishery ;  that  of 
leading  through  a  series  of  narrow  seas  adapted  for  tho 
navigation  of  small  open  boats  ;  that  of  being  the  most 
expeditious  route  by  which  to  reach  Fort  Churchill,  in 
Hudson's  Bay ;  that  of  leading  through  a  region  visited 


LIECTENAKT   OSBORN  S  SUGGESTIONS. 


333 


by  Esquimaux  and  migratory  animals  ;  and  this  route 
is  through  the  '  Strait  of  Sir  James  Boss,'  across  the 
narrow  isthmus  of  Boothia  Felix,  (which,  as  you  re- 
minded me  to-day,  was  not  supposed  to  exist  when  Sir 
John  Franklin  left  England,  and  has  been  since  discov- 
ered,) into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  where  he  could  either 
pass  by  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait  into  the  fishing-ground 
of  Hudson's  Strait,  or  else  go  southward  down  Commit- 
tee Bay,  across  the  Rae  Isthmus  into  Repulse  Bay,  and 
endeavor  from  there  to  reach  some  vessels  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  or  otherwise  Fort  Churchill. 

"  It  is  not  unlikely  either,  that  when  Franklin  had 
got  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  James  Ross's  Strait, 
and  found  the  land  to  be  across  his  path  where  he  had 
expected  to  find  a  strait,  that  his  party  might  have  di- 
vided, and  the  more  active  portion  of  them  attempted 
to  ascend  the  Great  Fish  River,  where  we  have  Sir 
George  Back's  authority  for  supposing  they  would  find, 
close  to  the  arctic  shores,  abundance  of  food  in  fish, 
and  herds  of  reindeer,  &c.,  while  the  others  traveled 
on  the  road  I  have  already  mentioned. 

"  To  search  for  them,  therefore,  on  this  line  of  retreat, 
I  should  think  highly  essential,  and  if  neglected  this 
year,  it  must  be  done  next ;  and  if  not  done  by  the 
Americans,  it  ought  to  be^done  by  us. 

"  1  therefore  suggest  the  following  plan  : —  Suppose 
a  well-equipped  expedition  to  leave  America  in  Ma}*, 
and  to  enter  Hudson's  Strait,  and  then  divide  into  two 
divisions.  The  first  division  might  go  northward, 
through  Fox's  Channel  to  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait,  exam 
ine  the  shores  of  the  latter  carefully,  deposit  provisions 
at  the  western  extreme,  erect  conspicuous  beacons,  and 
proceed  to  Melville  or  Felix  Harbor,  in  Boothia,  secure 
their  vessel  or  vessels,  and  dispatch,  as  soon  as  circum- 
stances would  allow,  boat  parties  across  the  neck  of 
the  isthmus  into  the  western  waters.  Here  let  them 
divide,  and  one  party  proceed  through  James  Ross'a 
Strait,  carefully  examining  the  coast,  and  push  over  sea, 
ice,  or  land,  to  the  northwest  as  far  as  possible.  Tho 
other  boat  party  to  examine  the  estuary  oi*  the  Great 


>J 


334 


rnOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Fish  River,  and  thenoe  proceed  westward  along  the 
coast  of  Simpson's  Strait,  and,  if  possible,  examine  the 
broad  bay  formed  between  it  and  Dease's  Strait. 

"The  second  division,  on  parting  company,  raighi 
pass  south  of  Southampton  Island,  and  coast  along  from 
Chesterfield  Inlet  northward  to  Repulse  Bay,  a  boat 
party  with  two  boats  might  cross  Rae  Isthmus  into  the 
bottom  of  Committee  Bay,  with  instructions  to  visit 
both  shores  of  the  said  bay,  and  to  rendezvous  at  the 
western  entrance  of  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait.  The  sec- 
ond division  ( be  it  one  or  more  vessels)  should  then 
pass  into  Fox's  Channel,  and  turning  through  Hecla 
and  Fury  Strait,  pick  up  the  boats  at  the  rendezvous ; 
and  thence,  if  the  first  division  have  passed  on  all  right, 
and  do  not  require  reinforcement,  the  second  division 
should  steer  northward  along  the  unknown  coast,  ex- 
tending as  far  as  Cape  Kater ;  from  Cape  Kater  pro- 
ceed to  Leopold  Island,  and  having  secured  their  ships 
there,  dispatch  boat  or  traveling  parties  in  a  direction 
southwest  from  Cape  Rennell,  in  North  Somerset,  be- 
ing in  a  parallel  line  to  the  line  of  search  we  shall 
adopt  from  Cape  Walker,  and  at  the  same  time  it  will 
traverse  the  unknown  sea  beyond  the  Islands  lately 
observed  by  Captain  Sir  James  Ross. 

"Some  such  plan  as  this  vould,  I  think,  insuie  youi 
gallant  husband  being  met  or  assisted,  should  he  be  to 
the  south  or  the  west  af  Cape  Walker,  and  attempt  to 
return  by  a  southeast  course,  a  direction  which,  I  think, 
others  as  well  as  myself  would  agree  in  thinking  a  very 
rational  and  probable  one. 

"  I  will  next  apeak  of  an  argument  which  has  been 
brought  forward  in  consequence  of  no  traces  of  the 
missing  expedition  having  been  discovered  in  Lancas- 
ter Sound ;  that  it  is  quite  possible,  if  Franklin  failed 
in  getting  through  the  middle  ice  from  Melville  Bay  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  that,  sooner  than  disappoint  public 
anxiet}'  and  expectation  of  a  profitable  result  arising 
from  his  expedition,  he  may  have  turned  northward, 
and  gone  up  Smith'^  Sound ;  every  mite  beyond  its  en- 
trance was  new  ground,  and  therefore  a  reward  to  the 


DEBATE   IN  OONGRESS. 


335 


discoverer.  It  likewise  brought  them  nearer  the  pole, 
and  may  be  they  found  that  open  sea  of  which  Baron 
"Wrangel  speaks  so  constantly  in  his  journeys  over  the 
ice  northward  from  Siberia. 

"It  is  therefore  desirable  that  some  vessels  should 
carefully  examine  the  entrance  of  this  sound,  and  visit 
all  the  conspicuous  headlands  for  some  considerable 
distance  within  it;  for  it  ought  to  be  borne  in  mind, 
that  localities  perfectly  accessible  for  the  purpose  of 
erecting  beacons,  &c.,  one  season,  may  be  quite  im- 
practicable the  next,  and  Franklin,  late  in  the  season 
and  pressed  for  time,  would  not  have  wasted  time,  scal- 
ing bergs  to  reach  the  shore  and  pile  up  cairns,  of 
which,  in  all  the  sanguine  hope  of  success,  he  could  not 
have  foreseen  the  necessity. 

"  Should  any  clue  be  found  to  the  lost  expedition  in 
this  direction,  to  follow  it  up  would,  of  course,  be  the 
duty  of  the  relieving  party,  and  every  thing  would  de- 
pend necessarily  upon  the  judgment  of  the  commanders. 

"In  connection  with  this  line  of  search,  I  think  a 
small  division  of  vessels,  starting  from  Spitzbergen,  and 
pushing  from  it  in  a  northwest  direction,  might  be  of 
great  service ;  for  on  reference  to  the  chart,  it  will  be 
seen  that  Spitzbergen  is  as  near  the  probable  position 
of  Franklin  (if  he  went  north  about,)  on  the  east,  as 
Behring's  Strait  is  upon  the  west ;  and  the  probability 
of  reaching  the  meridian  of  80°  west  from  Spitzbergen 
is  equally  as  good  as,  if  not  better  than,  Behring's  Strait, 
and,  moreover,  a  country  capable  of  supporting  life 
always  in  the  rear  to  fall  back  upon. 

,     "  Sheraed  Osrorn, 
"Lieutenant  Koyal  Navy. 

"To  Lady  Franklin." 

Debate  m  the  American  Congress. 

The  following  remarks  of  honorable  members  and 
senators,  in  defense  of  the  bill  for  carrying  out  Mr. 
GrinnelPs  expedition,  will  explain  the  grounds  on  which 
the  government  countenance  was  invojked  for  the  noble 
^undertaking :  — 


H 


t'  ft 


§ 


^ 


m 


je     ^ 


836 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


"Mr.  Miller:  I  prefer  that  the  government  should 
have  the  entire  control  of  this  enterprise  ;  but,  Sir,  I 
do  not  think  that  can  be  accomplished  ;  at  all  events,  it 
cannot  within  the  time  required  to  produce  the  good 
results  which  are  to  be  hoped  from  this  expedition.  It 
is  well  known  to  all  that  the  uncertain  fate  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  companions  has  attracted  the  attention 
and  called  forth  the  sympathies  of  the  civilized  world. 
This  government,  Sir,  has  been  indiiFerent  to  the  call. 
An  application,  an  appeal  was  made  to  this  government 
of  no  ordinary  character ;  one  which  was  cheerfully' 
entertained  by  the  President,  and  which  he  was  anxiou* 
should  be  complied  with.  But  it  is  known  to  the  coun 
try  and  to  the  Senate  that,  although  the  President  had 
every  disposition  to  send  out  an  expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  it  was  found  upon  inquiry  that 
we  had  no  ships  fitted  for  the  occasion,  and  that  the 
Executive  had  no  authority  to  procure  them  for  an  ex- 
pedition of  this  kind,  and  suitable  for  this  sort  of  navi- 
gation. The  Executive  was  therefore  obliged,  for  want 
of  authority  to  build  the  ships,  to  forego  further  action 
on  this  noble  enterprise,  until  Congress  should  meet, 
and  authorize  the  expedition. 

"In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Grinnell,  one  of  the  most 
respectable  and  worthy  merchants  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  understanding  the  difficulty  that  the  government 
had  in  fitting  out  the  expedition,  has  gone  to  work,  and 
with  his  own  means  has  built  t\;«o  small  vessels  espe- 
cially prepared  for  the  expedition ;  and  he  now  most 
generously  tenders  them  to  the  government,  not  to  be 
under  his  own  control,  but  the  control  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  to  be  made  part  of  the  navy  of  the  United 
States.  The  honorable  senator  from  Alabama  (Mr. 
King)  is  mistaken  with  regard  to  the  terms  and  effect 
of  this  resolution.  This  resolution  places  these  two 
ships  under  the  control  of  the  government,  as  much 
so  as  if  they  were  built  expressly  for  the  navy  of  the 
United  States.  Their  direction,  their  fitting  out,  their 
officers  and  mon,  are  all  to  be  under  the  control  of 
the  Executive.    Their  officers  are  to  be  officwrs  of  our 


DEBATE   IN  CONGRESS. 


837 


navy  —  their  seamen  the  seamen  of  our  navy  —  so  that 
the  expedition  will  be  as  thoroughly  under  the  control  of 
this  government  as  if  the  ships  belonged  to  us.  Now, 
Sir,  I  should  have  no  objections  myself  to  amend  this 
resolution  so  as  to  authorize  the  purchase  of  these  two 
small  vessels  at  once,  and  make  them  a  part  of  our  na- 
val establishment ;  but,  whon  I  recollect  the  magnani- 
mous feeling  which  urgea  ^.is  noble-hearted  merchant 
to  prepare  these  ships,  I  know  that  that  same  feeling 
would  forbid  him  to  make  merchandise  of  that  which 
he  lias  devoted  to  humanity.  He  offers  them  for  this 
great  cause  ;  they  are  his  property,  prepared  for  this 
enterprise,  and  he  offers  them  to  us  to  be  used  by  the 
government  in  this  great  undertaking.  "We  must  either 
accept  them  for  the  purpose  to  which  he  has  dedicated 
them,  or  reject  them  altogether.  If  we  refuse  these 
ships,  we  will  defeat  the  whole  enterprise,  and  lose  all 
opportunity  of  participation  in  a  work  of  humanity 
which  now  commands  the  attention  of  the  world. 

"  If  we  refer  this  resolution  back  to  the  committee, 
and  they  report  a  bill  authorizing  government  to  build 
ships  to  carry  on  the  expedition  on  its  own  account,  it 
would  be  attended  with  very  great  delay,  and,  in  my 
opinion  defeat  the  object  we  have  in  view.  In  a  case 
of  this  kind  time  is  every  thing.  It  must  be  done  speed- 
ily, if  done  at  all.  Every  hour's  delay  may  be  worth 
the  life  of  a  man.  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  compan- 
ions may  ere  this  have  perished,  but  our  hope  is  that 
they  are  still  living  in  some  narrow  sea,  imprisoned  by 
walls  of  ice,  where  our  succor  may  yet  reach  them. 
But,  Sir,  whether  our  hopes  are  fallacious  or  not,  the 
public  feeling  —  the  feeling  of  humanity  —  is,  that  the 
fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  should,  if  possible,  be  ascer- 
tained, and  as  soon  as  possible.  The  public  mind  will 
never  be  satisfied  till  an  expedition  from  this  country, 
or  from  some  other  country,  shall  have  ascertained  their 
fate.  I  therefore  trust  that  this  resolution,  as  it  is,  will 
be  acted  upon  at  once,  and  that  it  will  receive  the 
unanimous  vote  of  the  Senate.    *  *  *  * 

"  I  am  so  impressed  Mr.  President,  with  the  impor- 

15* 


'^ 


338 


PEOQRESS   OF  ARCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


tance  of  time  as  regards  the  disposal  of  this  question, 
that  I  hesitate  even  to  occupy  the  attention  of  the 
Senate  for  a  few  moment"  ;  and  I  only  do  so  for  the 
purpose  of  con  ^^.ting  some  views  which  have  been  ex- 
pressed by  the  senator  from  Mississippi.  *  *  *  The 
question  is,  whether  we  shall  adopt  this  resolution,  and 
immediately  send  forth  this  expedition  for  the  purpose 
of  accomplishing  this  great  object,  or  whether  we  shall 
throw  back  this  resolution  to  drag  its  slow  course 
through  Congress,  in  the  form  of  another  bill,  to  make 
an  appropnation  for  the  purpose  of  building  vessels. 
Por  what  object?  To  secure,  as  the  senator  says,  to  the 
United  States,  the  sole  honor  and  glory  of  this  expedi- 
tion. Sir,  if  this  expedition  is  got  up  merely  for  honor 
and  glory  either  to  the  United  States  or  to  an  individual, 
I  will  have  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  it.  Sir,  there 
is  a  deeper  and  a  higher  sentiment  that  has  induced  the 
action  of  Congress  on  this  subject.  It  is  to  engage  in 
a  great  work  of  humanity,  to  do  that  which  is  not  only 
bemg  done  by  the  government  of  England,  but  by  pri- 
vate individuals,  who  are  fitting  out  expeditions  at  their 
own  expense,  and  sending  them  to  the  northern  seas, 
for  the  purpose  of  discovering  the  tate  of  this  great 
man,  who  had  periled  his  life  in  the  cause  of  science 
and  of  commerce. 

"  Mr  President,  I  have  been  informed  that  a  private 
expedition  is  now  being  fitted  out  in  England  under  the 
direction  of  that  great  commander,  or  I  may  call  him 
the  king  of  the  Polar  Seas,  Sir  John  Koss,  who  ie  going 
again  to  devote  himself  and  his  life  to  this  perilous  ex- 
pedition. Sir,  altogether  I  have  not  had  heretofore 
much  confidence  in  the  success  of  this  expedition,  yet 
when  I  consider  the  reputation  of  Sir  John  Ross,  and 
the  fact  that  he  is  better  acquainted  with  those  seas 
than  any  other  man  living,  and  understanding  that  he 
entertains  the  belief  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
companions  are  yet  alive,  and  may  be  rescued, — I  say, 
finding  such  a  man  as  Sir  John  Ross  engaged  in  an  ex- 
pedition of  this  kind,  I  am  not  without  nope  that  our 
efforts  may,  under  Providence,  be  crowned  with  success. 


DEBATE    IN   CONGKESS. 


339 


But  the  honorable  senator  says  that  nothing  is  likely  to 
be  derived  from  this  expedition  but  honor  and  glory, 
and  that  that  is  to  be  divided  between  the  government 
of  the  United  States  and  a  private  individual.  Sir,  is 
there  nothing  to  be  derived  from  the  performance  of  an 
act  of  humanity  but  honor  and  glory  ?  Sir,  it  is  said 
that  in  this  instance  both  the  government  and  the  indi- 
vidual alluded  to  are  engaged  m  the  same  work.  Well, 
Sir,  what  objection  can  there  be  to  that  connection? 
Does  the  honorable  senator  from  Mississippi  envy  the 
individual  his  share  of  the  honor  and  glory  ?  Does  he 
desire  to  monopolize  it  all  to  tlie  United  States  ?  I  hope 
he  has  no  such  feeling  as  that. 

"  But,  Mr.  President,  the  honorable  senator  made  use 
of  an  expression  which  1  think  he  will  withdraw.  He 
intimated,  if  I  understood  him  rightly,  some  suspicion 
that  this  was  a  matter  of  speculation  on  the  part  of  Mr. 
Grinnell. 

"  Mr.  FooTE :  I  said  I  had  heard  such  a  thing  sug- 
gested ;  but  I  do  not  make  any  such  charge  myself. 

"  Mr.  Miller  :  I  have  heard  this  urged  as  an  objec- 
tion heretofore,  but  I  am  satisfied  that  if  the  senator 
from  Mississippi  knew  the  character  and  the  history  of 
this  gentleman,  he  would  not  even  repeat  that  he  had 
heard  such  an  insinuation.  Sir,  although  this  is  a 
liberal  donation  from  an  individual,  the  sum  need  not 
alarm  gentlemen  about  after  claims.  These  ships  are 
but  small  ships ;  and  it  is  necessjirv  that  they  should  be 
small  in  order  that  they  may  be  effective.  One  of  them 
is,  I  understand,  150  tons,  and  the  other  90  tons.  They 
have  cost,  I  believe,  30,000  dollars.  Now,  when  we 
find  this  merchant  devoting  his  property,  not  for  the 
purpose  of  building  ships  to  convey  merchandise  to  the 
markets  of  the  world  ;  when  we  find  him  retiring  from 
the  ordinary  course  of  commercial  pursuit  in  which  all 
the  world  is  engaged,  and  devoting  a  portion  of  his 
fortune  to  the  building  of  ships  that  can  be  used  for  no 
other  purpose  but  in  this  voyage  of  humanity,  can  it  be 
imagined  that  any  thought  of  speculation  on  his  part 
could  have  influenced  his  conduct  ?    No,  Sir.    On  the 


840 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


contrary,  it  is  a  high  and  wortliy  motive  ;  and  I  think 
it  ought  to  receive  the  ui^probation  of  this  and  all  other 
intelligent  Christian  nations,  to  see  a  merchant,  who, 
while  the  commercial  world  are  encompassing  the 
globe  by  sea  and  land  in  quest  of  proiit  and  of  gold,  is 
dedicating  himself  to  his  great  object,  and  devoting  a 
part  of  his  fortune  to  the  cause  of  iiunumity,  and  olier- 
ing  to  government,  not  as  a  bounty,  but  because  the 
government,  with  all  its  means,  has  not  the  power  and 
the  time  to  prepare  vessels  to  do  this  work.  That,  Sir. 
is  the  object. 

"  Now,  if  we  do  not  accept  these  ships,  there  will  bo 
an  end  of  this  expedition.  Sir,  shall  it  be  said,  that 
this  government  has  lost  such  an  opportunitv  as  this  of 
exhibiting  the  deep  interest  which  our  people  feel  both 
in  the  cause  of  science  and  humanity,  and  that,  too,  at 
the  very  time  when  we  are  entering  into  treaties  and  com- 
pacts with  all  the  commercial  nations  of  the  world,  for 
the  purpose  of  extending  commerce  and  civilization, 
and  opening  communications  of  trade  from  sea  to  sea^ 
When  the  government  is  not  only  doing  all  by  its  own 
power,  but  also  acting  in  concert  with  our  private  citi- 
zens in  constructing  rail-roads  and  canals,  and  by  vari- 
ous other  modes  extending  commercial  civilization 
throughout  the  world,  shall  it  be  said  that  we,  at  this 
moment,  refused,  through  the  fear  of  losing  a  little 
honor  and  glory  and  national  dignity,  to  accept  two 
ships  —  the  only  two  ships  in  America  that  can  do  the 
work  —  in  the  accomplishment  of  this  great  enterprise  'I 
I  hope  not.  Let  us  not,  then,  cavil  and  waste  time 
about  these  little  matters.  If  the  work  is  to  be  done 
at  all  it  must  be  done  now,  and  done^  as  I  conceive,  by 
the  adoption  of  this  resolution. 

Governor  Seward  spoke  as  follows  in  the  Senate 
on  the  same  subject :  —  "I  am  happy  to  perceive,  Mr. 
President,  indications  all  around  the  chamber  that  there 
is  no  disagreement  in  regard  to  the  importance,  or  in 
relation  to  the  propriety,  of  a  search  on  the  part  of  this 
nation,  by  the  government  itself,  or  by  individual  citi- 
zens, for  the  lost  and  heroic  navigator.    Since  so  much 


IJEBATE    IN    CONORFSS. 


341 


*8  conceded,  and  since  I  come  from  the  State  whenco 
this  proposition  emanates,  J  desire  to  notice,  in  a  very 
few  words,  the  objections  raised  a«j;ainst  the  mode  of 
carrying  the  proposed  design  into  elfect.     It  is  always 
the  case,  I  think,  when  great  objects  and  great  enter- 
prises which  are  feasible  are  hindered  or  defeated,  that 
they  are  hindered  or  defeated,  not  so  much  by  want  of 
agreement  concerning  the  measures  themselves,  as  by 
diversity  of  opinion  concerning  the  mode  of  carrying 
them  into  execution.    Since  this  is  so  generally  the 
case,  the  rule  which  I  always  adopt,  and  which  seems 
to  be  a  safe  one,  is,  that  where  I  cannot  have  my  own 
way  of  obtaining  a  great  public  object,  I  will  accept 
the  best  other  way  which  opens  before  me.     Now,  I 
cordially  agree  with   those   honorable   Scnat(.<r8  who 
would  have  preferred  that  at  some  appropriate  time, 
and  in  some  proper  and  unobjectionable  manner,  the 
government  should  have  moved  for  the  attainment  of 
this  object,  as  a  government,  and  have  made  it  exclu- 
sively the  act  of  the  nation.     And  I  would  ha/e  pre- 
ferred this,  not  so  much  on  account  of  the  glory  that  it 
is  supposed  would  have  followed  it,  as  because  of  the 
beneficence   of   the    enterprise.     Enterprises   which 
spring  from  a  desire  of  glory  are  very  apt  to  end  in 
disappointment.    True  national  glory  is  always  safely 
attained  by  prosecuting  beneficent  designs,  whatever 
may  be  their  success.     I  say.  Sir,  then,  that  I  would 
have  preferred  the  alternative  suggested ;  but  the  fact 
is,  without  stopping  to  inquire  where  the  fault  lies,  or 
whether  there  be  fault  at  all,  the  government  has  not 
moved,  and  the  reason  which  has  been  assigned  is,  1 
have  no  doubt,  the  true  one.     I  do  not  know  that  it 
has  ever  been  contradicted  or  called  in  question  ;  that 
reason  is,  that  the  Navy  of  the  United  States  containt 
no  vessels  adapted  to  the  enterprise,  but  consists  of 
ships  constructed  and  fitted  for  very  different  objects 
and  purposes  than  an  exploring  expedition  amid  the 
ice-bound  seas  of  the  arctic  pole.     Our  naval  marine 
consists  of  vessels  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  convoys, 
military  armament,  and  the  suppression  of  the  slave- 


'<i 


m 


v  ■" 
■1 


312 


I'UOGHKlia    OK    AUCTIC    UISCOVKUY. 


tradti  oil  tho  coast  of  Africa.  The  executive  portions 
of  tho  government  failed  for  want  of  vessels  suitable 
to  be  employed  in  this  particular  service.  It  tlierefore 
devolved,  upon  the  Legislature  of  the  United  States. 
But,  although  we  have  been  here  now  nearly  five 
months,  no  Committee  of  either  House,  no  member  of 
either  House  of  Congress  has  proposed  to  equip  a  na- 
tional fleet  for  this  purpose.  While  this  fact  exists  on 
one  side,  it  is  to  be  remarked  on  the  other,  that  the 
time  has  arrived  in  which  the  movement  must  be  made 
if  it  is  to  be  made  at  all,  and  also  that  a  careful  inves- 
tigation, made  by  scientific  and  practical  men,  has  re- 
vived the  hope  in  Europe  and  America  that  the  humane 
object  can  be  attained.  There  can,  then,  be  no  delay 
allowed  for  considering  whether  the  manner  for  carry- 
ing the  design  into  efltect  could  not  be  changed.  Let 
lis,  then,  practically  survey  the  case  as  it  comes  before 
us.  The  government  of  the  United  States  has  really 
no  vessels  adapted  to  the  purpose.  To  say  nothing  of 
the  expense,  the  government  has  not  time  to  provide, 
prepare,  or  equip  vessels  for  the  expedition.  Under 
such  circumstances,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States 
tenders  to  the  government  vessels  of  his  own,  precisely 
adequate  in  number,  and  exactly  fitted  in  construction 
and  equipment,  for  the  performance  of  the  duty  to  be 
assumed.  Since  he  offers  them  to  the  government, 
what  reason  can  we  assign  for  refusing  them?  No 
reason  can  be  assigned,  except  that  he  is  too  generous, 
and  offers  to  give  us  the  use  of  the  vessels  instead  of 
demanding  compensation  for  it.  Well,  Sir,  if  we  do 
accept  them  it  can  be  immediately  carried  into  execu- 
tion, with  a  cheering  prospect  of  attaining  the  great 
object  which  the  United  States  and  the  civilized  world 
have  such  deep  interest  in  securing.  Then  the  ques- 
tion resolves  itself  into  this  —  the  question  raised  by 
the  honorable  Senator  from  Alabama  (Mr.  King)— r 
whether,  in  seeking  so  beneficent  an  object,  it  is  con- 
sistent with  the  dignity  of  the  nation  to  combine  indi- 
vidual action  with  a  national  enterprise.  I  do  not 
think,  Mr.  President,  that  that  honorable  Senator  will 


DEUATK    IN   C()NOUE88. 


343 


find  himself  oMi^ed  to  insist  upon  this  ohjectiou  after 
lie  shall  have  carefully  examined  the  bill  before  us. 
He  will  find  that  it  converts  the  undertaking^  into  a 
national  enterprise.  The  vessels  are  to  be  accepted 
not  as  individual  property,  but  as  national  vessels. 
They  will  absolutely  cease  to  be  under  the  direction, 
management,  or  control  of  the  owners,  and  will  become 
at  once  national  ships,  and  for  the  thne,  at  least,  and 
for  all  the  i)urpo8es  of  the  expedition,  a  part  of  the 
national  marine. 

"Now,  Sir,  have  wo  not  posta/  arrangements  with 
various  foreign  countries  carried  ihto  effect  in  the  same 
way,  and  is  the  dignity  of  the  n:,tion  C(  riproaiised  by 
them?  During  the  war  with  Mexico.  •\.  3  government 
continually  hired  ships  and  steamboat  Irom  citizens  foi 
military  operations.  Is  the  glc  \  tf  that  war  .-rnish'jd 
oy  the  use  of  those  means  'i  Che  government  in  this 
case,  as  in  those  cases,  is  in  no  sense  a  partner.  It 
assumes  the  whole  control  of  the  vessels,  and  the  enter- 
prise becomes  a  national  one.  The  only  circumstance 
remaining  to  be  considered  is,  whether  the  government 
can  accept  the  loan  of  the  service  of  the  vessels  without 
making  compensation.  Now,  Sir,  I  should  not  have  had 
the  least  objection,  and,  indeed,  it  would  have  been 
more  agreeable  to  me  if  the  government  could  have 
made  an  arrangement  to  have  paid  a  compensation. 
But  I  hold  it  to  be  vHe  unnecessary  in  the  prcf^ent 
case  because  the  char  oter  of  the  person  who  tenders 
these  vessels,  and  the  circumstances  and  manner  of  the 
whole  transaction,  show  that  it  is  not  a  speculation. 
No  compensatioTi  is  wanted.  It  would  only  be  a  cere- 
mony on  the  part  of  the  government  to  offer  it,  and  a 
ceremony  on  the  part  of  the  merchant  to  decline  it.  I 
am,  therefore,  willing  to  march  directlv  to  the  object, 
and  to  assume  that  these  ceremonies  have  been  duly 
pertbrmed,  that  the  government  has  offered  to  pay,  and 
the  noble-spirited  merchant  declined  to  receive. 

"  Now,  then,  is  there  any  thing  derogatory  from  the 
dignity  and  independence  of  this  nation  in  employing 
the  vessels?    Certainly  not,  since  that  employment  is 


i,U« 


344 


PKOOUKSS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVKUV. 


indispensable.      If  it  were  not  indispensable  1  do  not 
think  that  the  dignity  of  the  Republic  would  be  ini- 

E aired  ;  I  think,  on  the  contrary,  that  it  would  be  en- 
anced  and  elevated.  It  is  a  transaction  worthy  of  the 
nation,  a  spectacle  deserving  the  contemplation  and 
respect  of  mankind,  to  see  that  not  only  does  the  nation 
prosecute,  but  that  it  has  citizens  able  and  willing  to 
contribute,  voluntarily  and  without  compulsion,  to  an 
enterprise  so  interesting  to  the  cause  of  science  and  of 
humanity.  It  is  indeed  a  new  and  distinct  cause  for 
national  pride,  that  an  individual  citizen,  not  a  merchant 
prince,  as  he  would  be  called  in  some  other  countries, 
but  a  republican  merchant,  comes  forward  in  this  way 
and  moves  the  government  and  co-operates  with  it.  It 
illustrates  the  magnanimity  of  the  nation  and  of  the 
citizen.  Sir,  there  is  nothing  objectionable  in  this  fea- 
ture of  the  transaction.  It  results  from  the  character 
of  the  government,  which  is  essentially  popular,  that 
there  are  perpetual  debates  on  the  question  how  far 
measures  and  enterprises,  for  the  purposes  of  humanity 
and  science,  are  consistent  with  the  constitutional  or- 
ganization of  the  government,  although  they  are  ad- 
mitted to  be  eminently  compatible  with  the  dignity, 
character,  and  intelligence  of  the  nation.  All  our  en- 
terprises, more  or  less,  are  carried  into  execution,  if 
they  are  carried  into  execution  at  all,  not  by  the  direct 
action  of  the  government,  but  by  the  lending  of  its 
favor,  countenance,  and  aid  to  individuals,  to  corpora- 
tions, and  to  States.  Thus  it  is  that  we  construct  rail- 
roads and  canals,  and  found  colleges  and  universities. 
"  Nor  is  this  mode  of  prosecuting  enterprises  of  great 
pith  and  moment  peculiar  to  this  government.  There 
was  a  navigator  who  went  forth  from  a  port  in  Spain, 
some  three  or  four  hundred  years  ago,  on  an  enterprise 
quite  as  doubtful  and  quite  as  perilous  as  tliis.  After 
trying  unsuccessfully  several  States,  he  was  forced  to  be 
content  with  the  sanction,  and  little  more  than  the  sanc- 
tion and  patronage  of  the  Court  of  Madrid.  The  scanty 
treasures  devoted  to  that  undertaking  were  the  private 
contributions  of  a  Queen  and  her  Bubjccts,  and  tlie  vca- 


DEDATK   IN   CONGUKSS. 


345 


Bcls  were  fitted  out  and  manned  at  the  expense  ot'nier- 
clumts  and  citizens,  which  gave  a  new  world  to  the 
kingdom  of  Castile  and  Leon. 

"  Entertaining  these  views  now,  whatever  my  opinion 
might  have  been  imder  other  circumstances,  I  shall  vote 
against  a  recommittal,  and  in  favor  of  tlie  bill,  as  the 
surest  way  of  preventing  its  defeat,  and  of  attaining  the 
sublime  and  beneficent  object  which  it  contemplates." 

The  committee  of  both  llouses  of  Congress,  to  whom 
Mr.  GriunelPs  petition  for  men  and  supplies  was  re- 
ferred, made  a  unanimous  report  in  favor ;  and  the 
vessels  letTk  on  their  daring  and  generous  errand. 

The  following  are  the  joint  resolutions  which  passed 
both  Houses  of  Congress  and  were  approved  by  Gen- 
eral Taylor,  authorizing  the  President  of  the  United 
States  to  accept  and  attach  to  the  U.  S.  Navy  the  two 
vessels,  oiiered  by  Mr.  Grinncll,  to  be  sent  to  the  arctic 
seas  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions: 

"  Resolved  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Represent- 
atives of  the  united  States  of  America  in  Congress 
assembled,  Tliat  the  President  be,  and  he  is  hereby 
authorized  and  directed,  to  receive  from  Henry  Grinnell, 
of  the  city  of  New  York,  the  two  vessels  prepared  by 
him  for  an  expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin 
and  his  companions,  and  to  detail  from  the  Navy  such 
commissioned  and  warrant  ofKcers,  and  so  many  sea- 
men as  may  be  necessary  for  said  expedition,  and  wlio 
may  be  willing  to  engage  therein.  The  said  officers 
and  men  shall  be  furnished  with  suitable  rations,  at  the 
discretion  of  the  President,  for  a  period  not  exceeding 
tlu'ce  years,  and  shall  have  the  use  of  such  necessary 
instruments  as  are  now  on  hand  and  can  be  spared  from 
the  Navy,  to  be  accounted  for  or  returned  by  the  offi- 
cers who  shall  receive  the  same. 

"  Sec.  2.  Be  it  further  resolved,  Tiiat  the  said  vessels, 
officere,  and  men  shall  be  in  all  resi)ccts  under  the  laws 
and  regulations  of  the  Navy  of  tlie  United  States  until 
their  return,  when  the  said  vessels  shall  be  delivered 
to  the  said  Henry  Grinnell :  Provided,  That  the  United 
States  shall  not  be  liable  to  any  claim  for  compensation 


ill 


346 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DI8CCIVERY. 


in  case  of  the  loss,  damage  or  deterioration  of  tlic  said 
vessels,  or  either  of  them,  from  any  cause  or  in  any 
manner  whatever,  nor  be  liable  to  any  demand  for  the 
use  or  risk  of  the  said  vessels  or  either  of  them." 

Directly  the  fact  became  known  that  the  American 
government  had  nobly  come  forward  to  aid  in  the  search 
which  was  being  so  strenuously  made,  the  different 
learned  societies  of  the  metropolis  vied  with  each  other 
in  testifying  the  estimation  in  which  this  noble  conduct 
was  held. 

At  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Royal  Society,  on  the 
Tth  of  June,  upon  the  motion  of  Sir  Charles  Lennox, 
seconded  by  the  late  Marquis  of  Northampton,  a  vote 
of  thanks  was  carried  with  the  utmost  enthusiasm,  ex- 
pressive of  the  gratitude  of  the  Society  to  the  American 
government,  and  of  their  deep  sense  of  the  kind  and 
brotherly  feeling  which  had  prompted  so  liberal  an  act 
of  humanity.  A  similar  vote  was  carried,  on  the  11th 
of  June,  at  a  general  meeting  of  the  Royal  Geograph- 
ical Society,  (of  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was  long  one 
of  the  vice-presidents.) 

The  American  expedition  consists  of  two  brigantines 
—  now  enrolled  in  the  United  States  Navy  —  the  Ad- 
vance, of  144  tons,  and  the  Rescue,  91  tons.  These 
vessels  have  been  provided  and  fitted  out  by  the  gener- 
ous munificence  of  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  a  merchant  of 
New  York,  at  an  expense  to  him  of  between  5000^.  and 
6000Z.  The  American  government  also  did  much  to- 
tvard  fitting  and  equipping  them.  The  Advance  was 
two  years  old,  and  the  Rescue  quite  new.  Both  vessels 
were  strengthened  in  every  part,  and  put  in  the  most 
complete  order  for  the  service  in  which  they  were  to  be 
engaged.  They  are  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant 
Edward  S.  De  Haven,  who  was  employed  in  Com- 
mander Wilkes'  expedition  in  1843  ;  Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin, 
acting  master,  has  charge  of  the  Rescue.  The  other 
oflicers  of  the  expedition  are  Messrs.  W.  H.  Murdaugb, 
acting-master ;  T.  W.  Broadhead,  and  R.  R.  Carter, 
passed  midshipmen  ;  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  passed  assistant- 
Burgeon  ;  Mr.  Benjamin  Finland,  assistant-surgeon ;  "W 


THE   AMERICAN    EXPEDITION. 


347 


o 


was 
jssels 
I  most 
I  to  be 
3nant 
iCom- 
-iffin, 
I  other 

larter, 
3tant- 


Novell,  midshipman  ;  H.  Brooks,  boatswain  ;  and  a 
complement  of  thirty-six  seamen  in  the  two  vessels  — 
the  crew  of  the  Advance  consisting  of  fifteen  men,  and 
the  Rescue  thirteen  men.  The  vessels  left  New  York 
on  the  25th  of  May,  1850.  Their  proposed  destination 
is  through  Barrow's  Strait,  westward  to  Cape  Walker, 
and  round  Melville  Island.  They  were  provisioned  for 
three  years. 

Whatever  may  be  the  result  of  this  expedition,  as 
connected  with  the  fate  of  the  gallant  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, it  is  one  which  reflects  the  highest  honor  upon  the 
philanthropic  individual  who  projected  it,  and  upon  the 
oflicers  ana  men  engaged  therein. 

A  dispatch  has  been  received  from  Lieutenant  De 
Haven,  dated  oft'  Leopold  Island,  August  22d,  which 
reports  the  progress  of  the  expedition  thus  far.  The 
Advance,  in  company  with  her  consort,  the  liescue, 
sailed  from  the  Whale  Fish  Islands  on  the  29th  of  June; 
after  many  delays  and  obstructions  from  calms,  stream 
ice,  and  the  main  pack,  they  forced  a  passage  through 
it  for  a  considerable  distance,  but  at  last  got  wedged  up 
in  the  pack  immovably  until  the  29th  of  July,  when 
by  a  sudden  movement  of  the  floes,  an  opening  pre- 
sented itself,  and  under  a  press  of  sail  the  vessels  forced 
their  way  into  clear  water.  They  encountered  a  heavy 
gale,  which,  with  a  thick  fog,  made  their  situation  very 
dangerous,  the  huge  masses  of  ice  being  driven  along 
by  the  strength  of  the  wind  and  current  with  great 
fury.  By  the  aid  of  warping  in  calm  weather,  they 
reached  Cape  Yorke  on  the  15th  of  August,  and  a  little 
to  the  eastward  met  with  two  Esquimaux,  but  could  not 
understand  much  from  them.  Between  Cape  Yorke 
and  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  while  delayed  by  calms,  being 
in  open  water,  they  hauled  the  ships  into  the  shore  at 
the  Crimson  Cliffs  of  Beverley,  (so  named  from  the  red 
snow  on  them,)  and  filled  their  water  casks  from  a 
mountain  stream. 

On  the  18th,  with  a  fair  wind,  they  shaped  their  course 
for  the  western  side  of  BaflSn's  Bay,  and  met  the  pack  in 
streams  and  very  loose,  which  they  cleared  entirely  by 


348 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY, 


the  following  day  —  getting  into  the  north  waters,  whore 
they  fell  in  with  Captain  Penny's  two  vessels,  whicli 
having  been  unsuccessful  in  their  efforts  to  enter  Jones' 
Sound,  were  now  taking  the  same  course  up  Lancaster 
Sound.  On  the  19th,  in  a  violent  gale,  the  Advance 
parted  company  with  the  Rescue.  On  the  morning  of 
the  21st  of  August,  the  fog  cleared,  and  Lieutenant  De 
Haven  found  he  was  off  Cape  Crawford,  on  the  south 
ern  shore  of  the  Sound.  Here  he  fell  in  with  the  Felix 
schooner,  under  Captain  Sir  John  Koss,  from  whom  he 
learned  that  Commodore  Austin  was  at  Pond's  Bay  with 
two  of  his  vessels,  seeking  for  information,  while  the 
other  two  had  been  dispatched  to  examine  the  north 
shore  of  the  Sound.  Lieutenant  De  Haven  proposed 
proceeding  on  from  Port  Leopold  to  Wellington  Chan- 
nel, the  appointed  place  of  rendezvous  with  his  consort. 


Captain  Forsyth's  Remarkable  Voyage  in  the 
"Prince  Albert." 

In  April,  1850,  a  branch  expedition  to  aid  those  ves- 
sels sent  out  by  the  government  was  determined  on  by 
Lady  Franklin,  who  contributed  largely  toward  its  out- 
lit  ;  a  considerable  sum  being  also  raised  by  public 
subscription.  The  expenses  of  this  expedition  were 
nearly  4000/.,  of  which  2500/.  were  contributed  by  Lady 
Franklin  herself.  The  object  of  this  expedition  was 
the  providing  for  the  search  of  a  portion  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which  it  was  distinctly  understood  could  not  bt 
executed  by  the  vessels  under  Captain  Austin  ;  but  the 
importance  of  which  had  been  set  forth,  by  arctic  and 
other  authorities,  in  documents  printed  in  the  Parlia- 
mentary Papers. 

The  unprovided  portion  alluded  to,  includes  Regent 
Inlet,  and  the  passages  connecting  it  with  the  western 
sea,  James  Ross's  Strait,  and  other  localities,  S.  W.  of 
Cape  Walker,  to  which  quarter  Sir  John  Franklin  was 
required  by  his  instructions  to  proceed  in  the  first  in- 
stance. This  search  is  assumed  to  be  necessary  on  the 
following  grounds :  — 


VOYAGE  OF  TIIE  PRINCE  ALBERT. 


349 


^liere 

7hich 

ones' 

jaster 

eance 

ngof 

ntDe 

south 

Felix 
om  he 
y  with 
le  the 

north 
oposed 

Chan- 
onsort. 


THE 


public 


1.  The  probability  of  Sir  John  Franklin  having 
Abandoned  his  vessels  to  the  S.  W.  of  Cape  Walker. 

2.  The  fact  that,  in  his  charts,  an  open  passage  is 
laid  down  from  the  west  into  the  south  part  of  Regent 
Inlet. 

3.  Sir  John  Franklin  would  be  more  likely  to  take 
this  conrne  through  a  country  known  to  possess  the  re- 
sources of  animal  life,  with  the  wreck  of  the  Victory 
in  Felix  Harbor  for  fuel,  and  the  stores  of  Fury  Beach 
farther  north  in  view,  than  to  fall  ujjon  an  utterly  barren 
region  of  the  north  coast  of  America. 

4.  He  would  be  more  likely  to  expect  succor  to  be 
sent  to  him  by  way  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's 
Strait,  into  which  Regent  Inlet  opens,  than  in  any 
other  direction. 

In  corroboration  of  the  necessity  of  this  part  of  tho 
search,  I  would  refer  generally  to  the  Parliamentary 
papers  of  1848-9  and  50.    As  an  individual  opinion,  i 
may  quote  the  words  of  Captain  Beechey,  p.  31  of  the 
first  series.     "  If,  in  this  condition,"  (that  of  being 
hopelessly  blocked  up  to  the  S.  "W.  of  Cape  Walker,) 
"  which  I  trust  may  not  be  the  case.  Sir  Jolm  Franklin 
should  resolve  upon  taking  to  his  boats,  he  would  prefer 
attempting  a  boat  navigation  through  Sir  James  Ross's 
Strait,  and  up  Regent  Inlet,  to  a  long  land  journey 
across  the  continent  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Settlements, 
to  which  the  greater  part  of  his  crew  would  be  wholly 
unequal."    And  again,  in  his  letter  to  the  Secretary 
of  the  Admiralty,  7th  of  February,  1850,  Captain 
Beechey  writes, "  *  *  *  *  the  bottom  of  Regent  Inlet, 
about  the  Pelly  Islands,  should  not  be  left  unexamined, 
[n  the  memorandum  submitted  to  their  Lordships,  17th 
of  January,  1849,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  im- 
portance, and  I  am  still  of  opinion  that  had  Sir  John 
Franklin   abandoned   his  vessels   near  the   coast   of 
America,  and  much  short  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  he 
would  have  preferred  the  probability  of  retaining  the 
use  of  his  boats  until  he  fo  nd  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
to  risking  an  overland  journey  via  the  before-men- 
tioned river ;  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  at  the 


m 


;:i. 


I 


i 


350 


PROGRESS  OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


time  he  sailed,  Sir  George  Back's  discovery  had  ren- 
dered it  very  probable  that  Boothia  was  an  island. 

The  memorandum  alluded  to  by  Captain  Boechey 
as  having  been  submitted  to  the  Lords  of  the  Admi- 
ralty on  the  17th  of  January,  1849,  was,  the  expression 
of  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the  arctic  officers  assem- 
bled by  command  of  the  Admiralty  to  deliberate  upon 
the  best  means  to  bo  taken  for  the  relief  of  the  missing 
expedition  ;  and  in  this  report,  clause  14  ^s  expressly 
devoted  to  the  recommendation  of  the  search  of  Regent 
Inlet. 

The  necessity  for  the  proposed  search  may  bo  thus 
further  developed.  Sir  John  Franklin  may  have  aban- 
doned his  ships,  when  his  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted somewhere  about  the  latitude  of  '73°  N.,  long. 
105°  W". ;  in  short,  at  any  point  S.  W.  of  Cape  Walker, 
not  further  "W".  than  long.  110°.  And  in  such  case, 
rather  than  return  north,  (which  might  be  indeed  im- 
practicable) or  moving  south  upon  the  American  Con- 
tinent, of  which  (upon  the  coast,)  the  utter  barrenness 
was  already  well  known  to  him,  he  might  prefer  a 
southeastern  course,  with  a  view  of  passing  in  his  boats, 
either  through  James  Ross's,  or  through  Simpson's 
Straits,  into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  and  so  up  into  Regent 
Inlet  to  the  house  and  stores  left  at  Fury  Beach,  the 
only  depot  of  provisions  known  to  him.  The  advantages 
of  such  a  course  might  appear  to  him  very  great. 

1.  Two  open  passages  being  laid  down  in  his  charts 
into  Regent  Inlet,  by  James  Ross's  Strait,  and  by  Simp- 
son's Strait,  a  means  of  boat  transport  for  his  party 
would  be  afforded,  of  which  alone  perhaps  their  ex- 
hausted strength  and  resources  might  admit;  such  a 
course  would  obviously  recommend  itself  to  a  com- 
mander who  had  experienced  the  frightful  difficulties 
of  a  land  journey  in  those  regions. 

2.  The  proposed  course  would  lead  through  a  part, 
the  Isthmus  of  Boothia,  in  which  animal  lite  is  known 
at  some  seasons  to  abound. 

3.  The  Esquimaux  who  have  been  found  on  the 
Isthmus  of  Boothia  are  extremely  well  disposed  and 
friendly. 


VOYAGE   OF   TIJE   I'KIMCE   ALBERT. 


35J 


4.  It  is  the  direct  route  toward  the  habitual  yearly 
resort  of  the  whalers  on  the  west  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay 
and  Davis'  Strait ;  indeed  those  ships  occasionally  de- 
scend Regent  Inlet  to  a  considerable  distance  south. 

5.  There  are  two  persons  attached  to  the  expedition 
who  are  well  acquainted  with  this  region  and  its  re- 
sources—  viz.,  Mr.  Blanky,  ice  master,  and  Mr.  Mac- 
Donald,  assistant  surgeon,  of  the  Terror.  The  former 
was  with  Sir  John  Soss  in  the  Victory.  The  latter 
has  made  several  voyages  in  whaling  vessels  and  is 
acquainted  with  the  parts  lying  between  Kegent  Inlet 
and  Davis'  Strait.  Where  so  few  among  the  crews  of 
the  missing  ships  have  had  any  local  experience,  the 
concurrent  knowledge  of  two  persons  would  have 
considerable  weight. 

6.  Opinions  are  very  greatly  divided  as  to  the  part 
in  which  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  may  have  been  ar- 
rested, and  as  to  the  course  they  may  have  taken  in 
consequence.  It  would  be  therefore  manifestly  unfair, 
and  most  dangerous,  to  reason  out  and  magnify  any  one 
hypothesis  at  the  expense  of  the  others.  The  plan  here 
alluded  to  sought  to  provide  for  the  probability  of  the 
Expedition  having  been  stopped  shortly  after  passing  to 
the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker.  The  very  open  season 
of  1845  was  followed  by  years  of  unusual  severity  until 
1849.  It  is  therefore  very  possible  that  retreat  as  well 
as  onward  progress  has  been  impossible  —  that  safety 
alone  has  become  their  last  object.  The  hope  of  rescu- 
ing them  in  their  last  extremity  depends,  then,  (as  far 
as  human  means  can  insure  it,)  on  the  multiplying  of 
simultaneous  efforts  in  every  direction.  Captain  Aus- 
tin's vessels  will,  if  moving  in  pairs,  take  two  most  im- 
portant sections  only,  of  the  general  search,  and  will 
find  they  have  enough  to  do  to  reach  their  several  points 
of  operation  this  season. 

The  necessity  for  this  search  was  greatly  enhanced 
')y  the  intelligence  received  about  this  time  in  England 
of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Eae  and  Commander  PuUen  at 
the  Mackenzie  River,  thus  establishing  the  facf.,  that 
Sir  John  Franklin's  party  had  not  reached  any"  part  of 


352 


PROORESfl  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


the  coast  between  Behring's  Strait  and  the  Coppermine 
River,  while  the  check  wb:ch  Mr.  Kae  received  in 
his  course  to  the  north  of  tne  Coppermine,  tended  to 
give  increased  importance  to  the  (quarter  eastward  of 
that  position. 

Commander  Charles  Codrington  Forsyth,  K.  N.,  an 
enterprising  yonng  officer,  who  had  not  long  previously 
been  promoted  in  consequence  of  his  arduous  services 
in  surveying  on  the  Australian,  African,  and  American 
shores,  and  who  had  rendered  good  service  to  the  gov- 
ernment by  landing  supplies  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa, 
under  circumstances  of  great  difficulty  during  the  Kalir 
war,  had  volunteered  unsuccessfully  for  all  the  govern- 
ment expeditions,  but  was  permitted  by  the  Admiralty 
to  command  this  private  branch  expedition,  in  which 
he  embarked  without  fee  or  reward  —  on  the  noble  and 
honorable  mission  of  endeavoring  to  relieve  his  long- 
imprisoned  brother  officers. 

The  Prince  Albert,  a  small  clipper  vessel  of  about 
ninety  tons,  originally  built  by  Messrs.  White,  of  Cowes, 
in  October,  1848,  for  the  fruit  trade,  was  accordingly 
hastily  fitted  out  and  dispatched  from  Aberdeen,  and 
Captain  Forsyth  was  instructed  to  winter,  if  possible, 
in  J3rentford  Bay,  in  Eegent  Inlet,  and  thence  send 
parties  to  explore  the  opposite  side  of  the  isthmus  and 
the  various  shores  and  bays  of  the  Inlet  She  had  a 
crew  of  twenty,  W.  Kay  and  W.  Wilson  acting  as  first 
and  second  mates,  and  Mr.  W.  P.  Snow  as  clerk.  She 
sailed  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  was  consequently  the 
last  vessel  that  left,  and  yet  is  the  first  that  has  reached 
home,  having  also  brought  some  account  of  the  track 
of  Franklin's  expedition. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  off  Cape  Farewell,  July 
2d,  entered  the  ice  on  the  19th,  and  on  the  21st,  came 
up  with  Sir  John  Ross  in  a  labyrinth  of  ice.  She  pro- 
ceeded up  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait,  fell  in 
with  most  of  the  English  ships  in  those  seas,  and  also 
with  the  American  brig  Advance,  sailing  some  time  in 
company,  and  attempted  to  enter  Regent  Inlet  and  Wel- 
lington Channel.     Sne  left  the  Advance  aground  near 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  PRINCE  ALBERT. 


35» 


1,  July 

;,  came 
.e  pro- 


Cape  Riley,  at  the  entrance  of  Wellington  Channel, 
though  not  in  a  situation  supposed  to  l)o  dangerous. 
Commander  Forsyth,  in  his  ofticial  letter  to  the  Lorda 
of  the  Admiralty,  says  that  "  traces  of  the  missing  ex- 
pedition under  Sir  John  Franklin  had  been  found  at 
Cape  Riley  and  Beechey  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
"Wellington  Channel.  We  observed  live  places  where 
tents  had  been  pitched,  or  stones  placed  as  if  they  hud 
been  used  for  keeping  the  lower  part  of  the  tents  down, 
also  great  quantities  of  beef,  pork,  and  birds'  bones,  a 
piece  of  rope,  with  the  Woolwich  naval  mark  on  it, 
^^yellow,)  part  of  which  I  have  inclosed."  Having  en- 
tered Wellington  Channel,  and  examined  the  coast  as 
far  as  Point  Innis,  and  finding  no  furtlier  traces  of  the 
missing  vessels,  and  it  being  impracticable  to  jienetrate 
further  to  the  west.  Commander  Forsyth  returned  to  Ro 
gent  Inlet,  but  meeting  no  opening  there,  the  season 
being  near  at  hand  when  the  ice  begins  to  form,  and 
his  vessel  not  of  a  strength  which  would  enable  it  to 
resist  a  heavy  pressure  of  ice,  he  determined  on  return- 
ing without  further  delay  to  England,  after  examining 
a  number  of  points  along  the  coast. 

On  the  25th  of  August,  a  signal  staif  being  observed 
on  shore  at  Cape  Riley,  Mr.  Snow  was  sent  by  Captain 
Forsyth  to  examine  it.  He  found  that  the  Assistance, 
Captain  Ommaney,  had  been  there  two  days  before,  and 
had  left  the  following  notice  : — 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  Captain  Ommaney,  with  the 
officers  of  her  Majesty's  ships  Assistance  and  Intrepid, 
landed  upon  Cape  Riley  on  the  23d  August,  1850,  wliero 
he  found  traces  of  encampments,  and  collected  the  re- 
mains of  materials,  which  evidently  proved  that  some 
party  belonging  to  her  Majesty's  ships  had  been  de- 
tained on  that  spot.  Beechey  Island  was  also  examined, 
where  traces  were  found  of  the  same  party.  This  is 
also  to  give  notice  that  a  supply  of  provisions  and  fuel 
is  at  Cape  Riley.  Since  15th  August,  they  have  ex- 
amined the  north  shore  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Bar- 
row's Strait,  without  meeting  with  any  other  traces. 

Captain  Ommaney  proceeds  to  Cape  Hotham  and  Cape 
16 


S54 


TROORESS   OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


Walker  in  search  of  further  traces  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's expedition.  Dated  on  board  her  Majesty's  Kliip 
Assistance,  oft'  Cape  Riley,  the  23d  August,  1850." 

The  seamen  who  were  dispatched  from  the  Assistance 
to  examine  these  remains,  found  a  rope  with  the  naval 
mark,  evidently  belonging  to  a  vessel  which  had  been 
fitted  out  at  Woolwich,  and  which,  in  all  probability, 
was  either  the  Erebus  or  tiio  Terror.  Other  indications 
were  also  noticed,  which  showed  that  some  vessel  had 
visited  the  place  besides  the  Assistance.  Captain  For- 
syth left  a  notice  that  the  Prince  Albert  had  called  off 
Cape  Riley  on  the  25tli  of  August,  and  then  bore  up 
to  the  eastward.  Captain  Forsyth  landed  at  Posses- 
sion Pay  on  the  29th  August,  but  nothing  was  found 
there  to  repay  the  search  instituted. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  at  Aberdeen,  on  the  22d 
of  October,  after  a  quick  passage,  having  been  absent 
something,  less  than  fou"  months. 

Captain  Forsvth  proceeded  to  London  by  the  mail 
train,  taking  with  him,  for  the  information  of  the  Ad- 
miralty, the  several  bonss,  (beef,  pork,  &c.,)  which  were 
found  on  Cape  Riley,  together  with  a  piece  of  rope  <  >t' 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length,  and  a  small  piece  of 
canvas  with  the  Queen's  mark  upon  it,  both  in  an  ex 
eel  lent  state  of  preservation  ;  placing  it  almost  bey  on  d 
a  doubt  that  they  were  left  on  that  spot  by  the  expedi- 
««on  under  Sir  John  Franklin. 

o'aptain  Forsyth,  during  his  short  trip,  explored  re- 
gions which  Sir  James  Ross  was  unable  to  reach  the 
previous  year.  He  was  at  "Wellington  Cliannel,  and 
penetrated  to  Fury  Beach,  where  Sir  E.  Parry  aban- 
doned his  vessel,  (the  Fury,)  in  1825,  after  she  bad 
taken  the  ground.  It  is  situated  in  about  72°  40'  N. 
latitude,  and  91°  50'  W.  longitude.  This  is  a  point 
vhich  has  not  been  '•eached  by  any  vessel  for  twenty 
years  past.  It  was  found,  however,  utterly  impossible 
to  land-there  on  account  of  the  packed  ice.  The  whole 
of  the  coasts  of  Baffin's  Bav  have  also  now  been  visited 
without  result. 
'    The  intelligence  which  Capt.  Forsyth  brought  homo 


VOYAGE   OF  THE   PRINCE   ALBERT. 


355 


iiiico 
laviil 
been 
)iUty, 
itiuus 

I  hud 

II  Yov- 
ed  otV 

re  ui> 

*088es- 
found 


has,  as  a  matter  of  course,  excited  the  most  intense  in- 
terest in  naval  circles,  and  among  the  friends  and  rohi- 
tives  of  the  parties  absent  in  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  more  so  masmuch  as  it  has  been  ascertained  at 
Chatham  Dockyard  that  the  rope  which  Captain  For- 
syth found  on  the  spot  when  he  visited  it,  and  copied 
Capt.  Ommaney's  notice,  is  proved  by  its  yellow  imirk 
to  have  been  manufactured  there,  and  certainly  hIhcu 
1824  ;  and  moreover,  from  inquiries  instituted,  very 
strong  evidence  has  been  elicited  in  favor  of  the  belief 
that  the  rope  was  made  between  the  years  1841  and 
1849.  That  the  trail  of  the  Franklin  expedition,  or 
some  detachment  of  it,  has  been  struck,  there  cannot 
be  the  slightest  doubt  in  the  mind  of  any  one  who  has 
read  the  dispatches  and  reports.  That  Captain  Om- 
maney  felt  satisfied  on  this  score  is  evident  from  the 
terms  of  the  piper  he  left  behind  him.  The  squadron, 
it  appears,  were  in  full  cry  upon  the  scent  on  the  25th 
of  August,  and  we  must  wait  patiently,  but  anxiously, 
for  the  next  accounts  of  the  results  of  their  indefatiga- 
ble researches,  which  can  hardly  reach  us  from  Bar- 
row's Strait  before  the  autumn  of  1851. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  now  in  the  mind  of  any  one, 
that  the  Arctic  Searching  Expeditions  have  at  length 
couie  upon  traces,  if  not  the  track  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin. The  accounts  brought  by  Captain  Forsyth  must 
have  at  least  satisfied  the  most  desponding  that  there 
is  still  hope  left  —  that  the  ships  have  not  foundered  in 
Baffin's  6ay,  at  the  outset  of  the  voyage,  nor  been 
crushed  in  the  ice,  and  burned  by  a  savage  tribe  of 
Esquimaux,  who  had  murdered  the  crew.  That  tho 
former  might  have  happened,  all  must  admit ;  but  to 
tlie  latter,  few,  we  imagine,  will  give  their  assent,  not- 
withstanding the  numerous  cruel  rumors  promulgated 
from  time  to  time.  It  would  be  idle  to  dwell  upon  so 
impossible  an  event.  Where  could  this  savage  tribe 
spring  from  ?  Mr.  Saunders  describes  the  natives  of 
Wolstenholrae  Sound  as  the  most  miserable  and  help- 
less of  mortals.  They  bad  no  articles  obtained  from 
Europeans  ;  and  he  was  of  opinion  that  ther»  were  no 


! 

ill 

1 

i 

1 

'IP 

mk 

\ 

9Bh 

^B 

H 

I 

856 


I'UOOUKSS   OF   AKClIC   DIriC'OVlOUY. 


Bottlcmcr.ts  further  north  ;  and  if  thoro  wore,  doubtless 
they  would  bo  even  more  impotent  than  these  wretched 
beincs.  That  the  sliip  nnVht  have  foundered  all  must 
admit.  The  President  did  so  with  many  a  gallant  soul 
on  board.  The  Avenger  ran  on  the  Sorelli,  and  300 
brave  fellows,  in  an  instant,  met  with  a  watery  grave  ; 
and  till  the  sea  sliall  give  up  lier  dead,  who  can  count 
the  tliousands  that  liebeneath  tlie  billows  of  the  mightv 
ocean  ?  We  have  now  certgin  evidence  that  Franklin  « 
ships  did  not  founder  —  not,  at  least,  in  Batiin's  Bay  ; 
ana  our  own  belief,  (says  a  well-informed  and  compe- 
tent writer  in  the  Morning  Herald,)  is  that  the  pennant 
still  floats  in  the  northern  breeze,  amid  eternal  regions 
of  snow  and  ice. 

The  voyage  performed  by  the  Prince  Albert  has  thus 
been  the  means  of  keeping  alive  our  hopes,  and  of  in- 
forming us,  up  to  a  certain  point,  of  the  progress  of 
the  expeditions,  and  the  situation  of  the  difterent  ships, 
of  which  we  might  have  been  left  in  a  state  of  utter 
ignorance  till  the  close  of  this  year.  Every  thing  con- 
nected with  the  navigation  of  the  arctic  seas  is  a 
chance,  coupled,  of  course,  with  skill  *,  and  in  looking 
at  this  voyage  performed  by  Lady  Franklin's  little 
vessel,  it  must  be  obvious  to  every  one  that  Captain 
Forsyth  has  had  the  chance  of  an  open  season,  and  the 
skill  to  make  use  of  it. 

"  Live  a  thousand  years,"  and  we  may  never  see  such 
another  voyage  performed.  We  have  only  to  look  at 
all  that  have  preceded.  Parry,  it  is  true,  in  one  year 
ran  to  Melville  Island,  and  passing  a  winter,  got  back 
to  England  the  following  season  —  and  this  is  at  present 
the  ne  plus  ultra  of  arctic  navigation.  Sir  John  Ross, 
we  know,  went  out  in  the  Victory  to  Regent  Lilet,  and 
was  frozen  in  for  four  years,  and  all  the  world  gave 
him  up  for  lost — but  "there's  life  in  the  old  dog  yet," 
as  the  song  has  it. 

Sir  James  Ross  was  frozen  in  at  Leopold  Harbor, 
and  only  got  out,  at^c  T>a88ing  a  winter,  to  be  carried 
away  in  a  floe  of  ice  into  Baffin's  Bay,  which  no  human 
skill  could,  prevent.  .  , 


VOTAOE  OF   TUK   PRINOH   ALBERT. 


857 


Aess 
;luid 
nust 
soul 
300 
ttvc ; 
;ount 

kliirs 
Bay ; 
)mpe- 
nnant 
jgions 

,8  thus 
of  in- 
ess  of 
;  ships, 
f  utter 
ig  coii- 
3  is  a 

ooking 
little 
Captain 
md  the 

ee  such 
ook  at 
le  year 
ot  back 
present 
Ross, 
et,  and 
d  gave 

og  yet," 

Harbor, 
carried 
human 


Sir  George  Back  was  to  make  a  summer's  cniise  to 
Wapjer  Inlet,  and  return  to  England.  The  result  every 
Dne  knows  or  may  make  themselves  acquainted  with, 
by  reading  the  fearful  voyage  of  the  Terror,  an  ab- 
stract of  which  I  have  already  given.  It  would  be 
superlluous  to  enumerate  many  other  of  our  series  of 
polar  voyages,  but  it  is  ])retty  evident  tliat  Captain 
Forsyth's  vovagi;,  j)crfonned  in  the  summer  months 
of  1850,  will  be  lianded  dflwn  to  ])osterity  as  one  of  the 
most  remarkable,  if  not  the  most  remarkable,  that  has 
ever  been  accomj)lished  in  the  arctic  seas  —  the  expe- 
dition consisting  of  one  Kolitary  small  vessel. 

The  main  object  of  the  voyage,  it  is  true,  has  not 
been  accomplished,  but  as  all  the  harbors  in  Regent 
Inlet  were  frozen  up,  and  it  was  utterly  impossible  to 
cut  through  a  vast  tract  of  ice,  extending  for  perhaps 
four  or  five  miles,  to  got  the  ship  to  a  secure  anchor- 
age, under  these  circumsiances.  Captain  Forsyth  had 
no  alternative  but  to  return,  and  in  doing  so,  he  has, 
in  the  o])inion  of  all  the  best-informed  officers,  dis- 
played great  good  sense  and  judgment  rather  than  re- 
main frozen  in  at  the  "Wellington  Channel,  where  he 
only  went  to  reconnoiter,  and  where  he  had  no  business 
whatever,  1  is  instructions  being  confined  to  Regent 
Inlet. 

Lady  Franklin  purposes,  if  she  can  raise  sufficient 
funds,  to  send  out  another  boat  expedition  this  spring  to 
Regent  Inlet,  to  prosecute  the  search  in  the  regions  to 
which  we  have  before  alluded,  and  on  which  she  places 
so  much  reliance.  The  party,  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Kennedy,  will  probably  winter  in  Brentford  Bay  or 
some  other  convenient  place,  and  carry  on  the  search- 
ing operations  on  the  opposite  shores  of  Boothia,  as 
the  season  permits.  But  her  ladyship's  income  has 
been  so  largely  drawn  upon  by  the  various  enormous 
expenses  she  has  been  put  to,  that  it  is  doubtful 
whether  she  will  be  able  to  carry  out  her  views  without 
assistance  from  the  public. 

I  sincerely  trust  that  the  generosity  and  chivalry  of 
the  people  of  England,  which  has  displayed  its  sympa 


1 


I 

M  !' 
'<    '    , 


m  4i 


358 


PBOORESS  OF  ABGTIC   DISCOVESY. 


thies  with  the  distressed  soldier  and  the  weather-bound 
seamen  on  so  many  occasions,  and  in  so  many  splendid 
and  richly-endowed  institutions,  will  not  allow  this 
noble-minded  lady  to  exhaust  her  private  resources 
in  the  equipment  of  expeditions  which  are  deemed  so 
important  and  necessary,  but  that  they  will  come  for- 
ward and  relieve  her,  recollecting  that  the  expedition 
is  required  in  search  of  two  of  her  Majesty^s  ships, 
sent  out  on  their  arduous  service  by  the  government 
of  the  country,  and  under  command  ^f  her  honored, 
amiable,  and  distinguished  husband,  the  good  and 
brave  Sir  John  FranMin. 

I  have  thus  gone  through,  as  fully  as  my  space  would 
permit,  the  voyages  and  journeys  of  our  navigators  and 
travelers  within  the  Arctic  circle,  and  the  record  of 
their  arduous  services  cannot  fail  to  prove  interesting. 

There  is  one  land  expedition,  that  of  Dr.  Sir  John 
Bichardson,  on  the  Polar  shore  between  the  Copper- 
mine and  Mackenzie  Rivers,  in  1848,  which  I  have  not 
touched  on  because  it  has  already  been  published  in 
detail  in  several  quarters,  and  the  gallant  Doctor  is  pre- 
paring a  very  full  account  of  it  for  immediate  publica- 
tion. Captain  Kellett,  also,  has  it  in  contemplation  to 
publish  an  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Herald. 

The  following  recapitulation  will  give  the  position 
of  the  different  vessels  engaged  in  the  search,  when  last 
heard  of. 

The  Investlffator  having  passed  Behring's  Strait, 
reached  Kotzebue  Sound  on  the  27th  of  July,  and 
when  last  heard  of,  was  pushing  her  way  along  between 
the  ice  toward  Melville  Island.  The  Enterprise  had 
put  back  to  Hong  Kong  to  winter  having  been  unable 
to  enter  the  ice. 

The  Advance,  was  aground  off  Cape  Riley,  August 
26th. 

The  Assistance,  in  Wellington  Channel,  August 
25th,  standing  toward  Capo  Hotham. 

The  Felix,  off  Cape  Crawford,  in  Lancaster  Sound, 
August  22d. 

"Hie  Intrepid  and  Lady  Franklm,  on  August  24th 


LATEST   POSITION  OF   ALL  TUE   VESSELS. 


359 


and  25th,  in  Wellington  Channel,  standing   toward 
Cape  Hotiiam. 
The  Keaolute  and  Pioneer,  in  Possession  Bay,  Aus:. 

The  Eescue  and  Sophia,  in  "Wellington  Channel,  Au- 
gust 25th,  apparently  beset  with  ice. 

The  Plover,  wintering  in  Grantley  Harbor,  Port 
Clarence,  1850. 

The  North  Star  and  Prince  Albert  have,  as  we  have 
seen,  arrived  in  England,  and  the  Herald  is  also  on 
her  passage  home.  I  have  been  favored  with  the  sight 
of  a  private  letter  of  very  recent  date  from  an  officer 
of  the  Herald,  dated  Hong  Kong,  23d  of  December, 
1850,  from  which  I  make  the  following  extracts  : 

"  On  our  third  and  last  cruise  north  in  search  of  the 
ill-fated  expedition  under  Sir  John  Franklin,  wo  sailed 
from  Oahu  on  the  24th  of  May,  1850,  arriving  in  Kot- 
zebue  Sound  on  the  14th  of  July.  The  Sound  was  a 
perfect  wall  of  ice,  with  no  prospect  of  our  being  able 
to  communicate  with  the  Plover  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 
One  of  our  cutters  was  sent  in  with  letters,  getting  be- 
tween the  floes,  and  hauling  over  some,  at  last  reached 
her,  and  found  them  all  well,  but  no  news  during  the 
winter  of  Sir  John  Franklin.  On  the  21st  of  July, 
after  watering  and  refitting,  we  sailed  for  Cape  Lis- 
burne  to  intercept  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator, 
this  being  the  appointed  rendezvous.  The  Plover  also 
sailed  for  Point  Barro»<r  to  look  after  PuUen's  party. 
On  the  26th,  in  a  dense  fog,  we  made  the  ice-pact, 
much  to  our  surprise,  180  miles  south  of  where  we 
found  it  last  season,  in  latitude  70°  13'  N.  The  ice  was 
fourteen  feet  high,  a  solid  wall  without  an  opening 
through  which  we  might  with  safety  sail.  Toward 
midnight  it  blew  a  gale  of  wind,  and  we  were  compel- 
led to  naul  off.  On  the  29th,  we  again  made  the  pack 
much  higher  than  before,  rising  like  a  hill  from  the  sea 
face,  in  latitude  71°  12'  N.  On  the  night  of  the  30th, 
we  saw  detached  icebergs  off  Wainwnght  Inlet,  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  high.  The  wind  again  increasing  to 
a  gale,  with  thick  rainy  weather,  reduced  us  to  close 
veefs,  and  compelled  us  to  bear  up  for  Cape  Lisburne. 


i  if; 

1! 


!    i^ 


■iti 


S60 


PBOGBESS  OF  ABOnO  DISOOVEBY. 


"  Arriving  off  that  place  on  the  last  day  of  July,  we 
were  fortunate  enough  to  fall  in  with  the  Investigator  in 
a  dense  fog.  Clearing  for  ah  instant,  we  were  along- 
side each  other!  and  we  had  the  news  of  the  last 
twelve  months.  She  had  come  from  Oahu  in  the  short 
rpace  of  time,  twenty-six  days.  The  Enterprise  sailed 
five  days  before  her.  They  had  not  seen  each  other 
since  rounding  the  Horn.  The  Investigator  remained 
but  a  few  minutes  in  our  company,  and  then  departed 
with  three  hearty  cheers  from  us  for  the  ice  pack,  deter- 
mined to  get  to  Melville  Island.  She  had  our  good 
wishes,  but  at  the  same  time  our  doubts  as  to  her  suc- 
cess ;  we  had  the  experience  of  three  voyages.  She 
was  as  yet  green,  and  all  her  troubles  to  go  through. 

"  From  this  day,  31st  of  July,  to  26th  of  August,  we 
were  blockading  Cape  Lisburne,  to  intercept  the  En- 
terprise and  Plover,  a  most  tedious  and  troublesome 
twenty-six  days  as  over  we  experienced  ;  we  did  not 
see  tLo  former,  but  the  Plover  we  spoke.  She  had  been 
to  Point  Barrow,  had  heard  from  the  natives  that  a 
party  of  white  men  had  been  murdered  and  buried  near 
the  Colville  Eiver,  near  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  that 
whales' jaws  and  bones  now  marked  the  spot.  If  it 
had  not  been  so  late  in  the  season  we  should  have  sent 
a  boat  expedition  there,  but  we  hardly  knew  what  con- 
clusion to  come  to.  It  may  be  PuUen's  party, —  it  may 
be  only '  native  report '  to  get  tobacco  and  beads.  My 
opinion  was,  and  is,  that  the  story  was  a  most  improb- 
able one,  as  the  natives  refused  to  accept  a  cask  of  to- 
bacco and  two  muskets  to  go  there  as  pilots.  But  should 
any  thing  have  unfortunately  happened  to  Pullen's 
party,  and  no  movement  made  by  us  to  rescue  them  if 
still  alive,  it  would  be  a  damper  on  the  Herald,  and  the 
affair  never  forgwen  or  forgotten  by  the  public.     . 

"  Finding  it  useless  to  wait  any  longer  for  the  Enter- 
prise, we  sailed  for  Port  Clarence,  and  put  the  Plover 
into  winter  quarters  as  a  depot  for  the  two  ships  north." 


THE  SEABOHING   EXPEDITIONS.  361 


ir,we 

;orm 
long- 
)  last 
short 
jailed 
other 
ained 
)arted 
deter- 
good 
jr  Buc- 
She 
igh. 
ist,  we 
tie  En- 
lesome 
id  not 
,d  been 
I  that  a 
3d  near 
ad  that 
If  it 
ve  sent 
lat  con- 
it  may 
s.    My 
mprob- 
of  to- 
;  should 
ullen's 
;hem  if 
and  the 

Enter- 
Plover 
north." 


TO  THE  EXPEDITIONS  IN  SEARCH  OF  SIR 
JOHN  FRANKLIN. 

[From  Fisher's  Drawing- Boom  Sciritp-Book.3  • 

AoKOss  tho  Arctic  foam, 

To  bring  the  wanderer  home, 
Speed  on,  ye  fleets,  whom  Mercy's  hand  equips  1 

And  may  the  favoring  gales 

Make  music  in  your  saik, 
And  waft  you  safely,  oh,  ye  gallant  ships  I 

May  sunshine  light  your  path. 

And  tempests  stiU  their  wrath. 
And  fortune  guide  you  on  your  darkest  track ; 

Speed  on  with  high  endeavor, 

And  hopeful  courage  ever. 
And  bring  to  Britisn  hearts  their  long  lost  hero  baclc 

Farewell — a  short  farewell  I — 

The  hopes  of  nations  swell. 
And  prayers  of  myi-iads  rise  to  Heaven  fbr  you, 

That  perils  of  the  cold, 

And  hardships  manifold. 
May  bear  their  gentlest  on  each  hardy  crew  I 

A  thankful  world  looks  on, 

And  gives  its  benison  ; 
America  and  Europe  join  their  hands  ; 

And  o'er  tiie  Northern  Sea, 

Gaze  forward  hopefully. 
And  sound  our  Franklin'^  tlh'^q  through,  all  the  p.nrious  landai 

Return  I  oh,  socn  ivt  re.  1 

And  let  n  ir  be ri-i'  xsa  bura 
On  every  roountaii;  -top  an.  ■  ii/  zy  &;ai  f ; 

And  let  !he  p(.M> pie's  vo'ca, 

And  c'apj.iig  Lands  rejoiod 
For  bis  and  your  ret<r  ?Jnfr  from  afar, 

No  conqutror  anti'-iie, 

Of  Romun  famo  ^ /'Greek, 
Such  proud  ovation  gathered,  laurel-crowned, 

As  we  on  him  would  pour, 

From  every  kw  or  shore. 
And  hive  of  busy  mer.  oj  all  our  English  ground. 

But  if  this  may  not  be. 

And  o'er  the  frozen  sea 
They  sleep  in  death,  the  victims  of  thoir  Eeal ; 

Be  yours  the  task  to  sho'y 

The  greatness  of  our  woe. 
And  end  the  doubting  hopes  that  millions  feel. 

Then  shall  tho  tears  be  shed 

For  them,  the  glorious  dead ; 
16* 


i,    ii'^'; 


362 


PBOGKESS   OP   ARCTIC  DI8C0VEKV. 


And  then  shall  History,  on  a  spoUeas  page. 
Inscribe  eadi  honest  name 
With  tribtttary  feme  — 

,The  men  of  noble  sool —  true  heroes  of  our 


Speed  on  across  the  wave  I  — 

For  you  the  good  and  brave, 
The  good  and  brave  of  erorv  land  implore 

All  blessings  and  success, 

Sunshine  and  happiness, 
And  safety  on  the  far  and  frozen  shore. 

From  stonn  and  hidden  rock. 

And  from  the  iee-beig's  shock, 
May  Heaven  protect  you,  wheresoe'er  ye  strsgr  \ 

On  Mercy's  errand  sped 

On  you  be  mercy  shed, 
<3tod  gtwie  you,  mariners,  and  shield  you  on  yonr  waf 


W 


i 

i 

wl; 

!  B 

■k'' 

'  '^m 

■'-M"* 

'  'Mi 

1 

1 

^'g 


\ 

'■■'i       - 

:  1 

t 

H 
in 
an 
rei 
pr( 
im 
ge: 

bri 
tor 
tra 
clii 
vo^ 
the 
reg 
wa 
wh 
tio] 
not 

m 

nat 
hac 

COB 

reti 

Isl£ 

185 
Th( 


THE  AMEBIOAN  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


The  safe  return  of  the  expedition  sent  out  by  Mr. 
Henry  Grinnell,  an  opulent  merchant  of  New  York  city 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions,  is 
an  event  of  much  interest ;  and  the  voyage,  though  not 
resulting  in  the  discovery  of  the  long-absent  mariners, 
presents  many  considerations  satisfactory  to  the  parties 
immediately  concerned,  and  the  American  public  in 
general. 

Mr.  Grinnell's  expedition  consisted  of  only  two  small 
brigs,  the  Advance  of  140  tons ;  the  Ecscue  of  only  90 
tons.  The  former  had  been  engaged  in  the  Havana 
trade  ;  the  latter  was  a  new  vessel  built  for  the  mer- 
chant service.  Both  were  strengthened  for  the  arctic 
voyaffe  at  a  heavy  cost.  They  were  then  placed  under 
the  directions  of  our  Navy  Board,  and  subject  to  naval 
regulations,  as  if  in  permanent  service.  The  command 
was  given  to  Lieut.  E.  De  Haven,  a  young  naval  officer 
who  accompanied  the  United  States  exploring  expedi- 
tion. The  result  has  proved  that  a  better  choice  could 
not  have  been  made.  His  officere  consisted  of  Mr. 
Murdoch,  sailing-master ;  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  surgeon  and 
naturalist ;  and  Mr.  Lovell,  midshipman.  The  Advance 
had  a  crew  of  twelve  men  when  she  sailed  ;  tT7o  of  them 
complaining  of  sickness,  and  expressing  a  desire  to 
return  home,  were  left  at  the  Danisn  settlement  at  Disco 
Island,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland. 

The  Expedition  left  New  York  on  the  23d  of  May, 
1850,  and  was  absent  a  little  more  than  sixteen  months. 
They  passed  the  eastern  extremity  of  Newfoundland 


fi:ii-i 


36<5 


PKOtiKFrtd   or  AJtCriC    DIflOuVKJCV. 


ten  "days  after  leaving  Sp  li^ly  Hook,  and  then  HaiK'<l 
east-northeast,  directly  for  (.\ipe  Comfort,  on  the  coast 
of  Greenland.  Tiio  weather  wa** generally  line,  and 
only  a  single  accident  occurred  on  the  voyage  to  that 
country  of  frost  and  snow.  Off  the  coast  of  Lahradoi 
they  met  an  iceberg  making  its  way  toward  the  tropics. 
The  night  was  very  dark,  and  as  the  huge  voyager  had 
no  "  liglit  out,"  the  Advance  could  not  be  censured  for 
running  foul.  Slie  was  punished,  however,  by  the  loss 
of  her  jib-boom,  as  she  ran  against  the  iceberg  at  the 
rate  of  seven  or  eiojht  knots  an  hour. 

The  voyagers  did  not  land  at  Cape  Comfort,  but 
turning  northward,  sailed  along  the  southwest  coast  of 
Greenland,  sometimes  in  the  midst  of  broad  acres  of 
broken  ice,  (particularly  in  Davis'  Straits,)  as  far  as 
Whale  Island.  On  the  way  the  anniversary  of  our 
national  independence  occurred  ;  it  was  observed  by 
the  seamen  by  "  splicing  the  main-brace  " —  in  other 
words,  they  were  allowed  an  extra  glass  of  grog  on  that 
day. 

From  Whale  Island,  a  boat,  with  two  officers  and 
four  seamen,  was  sent  to  Disco  Island,  a  distance  of 
about  26  miles,  to  a  Danish  settlement  there,  to  procure 
skin  clothing  and  other  articles  necessary  for  use  during 
the  rigors  of  a  polar  winter.  The  officers  were  enter- 
tained at  the  government  house  ;  the  seamen  were  com- 
fortably lodged  with  the  Esquimaux,  sleeping  in  fur 
bags  at  night.  They  returned  to  the  ship  the  following 
day,  and  the  expedition  proceeded  on  its  voyage.  When 
passing  the  little  Danish  settlement  of  Upernavick,  they 
were  boarded  by  natives  for  the  first  time.  They  were 
out  in  go^Ci-nment  whale-boats,  hunting  for  ducks  and 
seals.  These  hardy  children  of  the  Arctic  Circle  were 
not  shy,  for  through  the  Danes,  the  Englislj^  whaler8,and 
government  expeditions,  they  had  become  acquainted 
with  men  of  other  latitudes. 

When  the  expedition  reached  Melville  Bay,  which, 
on  account  of  its  fearful  character,  is  also  called  the 
DeviVs  JSTip^  the  voyagers  began  to  witness  more  of 
the  grandeur  and  perils  of  arctic  scenes.    Icebergs  of 


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THE   AMERICAN   ARCTIC   EXPEDITION. 


307 


aU  dimensions  came  bearing  down  from  the  Polar  seas, 
like  vast  squadrons,  and  the  roar  of  their  rending  came 
over  the  waters  like  the  booming  of  heavy  broadsides 
of  contending  navies.  They  also  encountered  immense 
floes,  with  only  narrow  channels  between,  and  at  times 
their  situation  was  exceedingly  perilous.  On  one  occa- 
sion, alter  heaving  through  helds  of  ice  for  five  consecu- 
tive weeks,  two  immense  floes,  between  which  thev 
were  making  their  way,  gradually  approached  each 
other,  and  for  several  hours  they  expected  their  tiny 
vessels — tiny  when  compared  with  the  mighty  objects 
around  them  —  would  be  crushed.  An  immense  calf 
of  ice,  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  slid  under  the  Kescue, 
lifting  her  almost  "  high  and  dry,"  and  careening  her 
partiallv  upon  her  beam  ends.  Bv  means  of  ice-an- 
chors, (large  iron  hooks,)  they  kept  her  from  capsizing. 
In  this  position  they  remained  about  sixty  hours,  when, 
with  saws  and  axes,  they  succeeded  in  relieving  her. 
The  ice  now  opened  a  little,  and  they  finally  warped 
through  into  clear  water.  While  they  were  thus  con- 
fined, polar  bears  came  around  them  in  abundance, 
greedy  for  prey,  and  the  seamen  indulged  a  little  in  the 
perilous  sports  of  the  chase. 

The  open  sea  continued  but  a  short  time,  when  they 
again  became  entangled  among  bergs,  floes,  and  hum- 
mocks, and  encountered  the  most  fearful  perils.  Some- 
times they  anchored  their  vessels  to  icebergs,  and  some- 
times to  noes  or  masses  of  hummock.  On  one  of  these 
occasions,  while  the  cook,  an  active  Frenchman,  was 
upon  a  berg,  making  a  place  for  an  anchor,  the  mass  of 
ice  split  beneath  him,  and  he  was  dropped  through  the 
yawning  fissure  into  the  water,  a  distance  of  almost 
thirty  reet.  Fortunately  the  masses,  as  is  often  the 
case,  did  not  close  up  again,  but  floated  apart,  and  the 
poor  cook  was  hauled  on  board  more  dead  than  alive, 
from  excessive  fright.  It  was  in  this  fearful  region  that 
they  first  encountered  pack-ice,  and  there  they  were 
locked  in  from  the  7th  to  the  23d  of  July.  During  that 
time  they  were  joined  by  the  yacht  Prince  Albert,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Forsyth,  of  the  Royal  Navy,  and 


368 


PBOOBEtlB  OF   ARCTIC   DI8COVEUT. 


together  the  three  vessels  were  anchored,  for  a  while, 
to  an  immense  field  of  ice,  in  si^ht  of  the  Devil's 
Thumb.  That  high,  rocky  peak,  situated  in  latitude 
74°  22',  was  about  thirty  miles  distant,  and  with  the 
dark  hUls  adjacent,  presented  a  strange  aspect  where 
all  was  white  and  glittering.  The  padc  and  the  hills 
are  masses  of  rock,  with  occasionally  a  lichen  or  a  moss 
growing  upon  their  otherwise  naked  surfaces.  In  the 
midst  of  the  vast  ice-field  loomed  up  many  loft^  bergs, 
all  of  them  in  motion  —  slow  and  majestic  motion. 

From  the  Devil's  Thumb  the  American  vessels  passed 
onward  through  the  pack  toward  Sabine's  Islands,  while 
the  Prince  Albert  essayed  to  make  a  more  westerly 
course.  They  reached  Cape  York  at  the  beginning  of 
August.  Far  across  the  ice,  landward ,  they  discovered, 
through  their  glasses,  several  men,  apparently  making 
signals  ;  and  for  a  while  they  rejoiced  in  the  belief  that 
they  saw  a  portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  companions. 
Four  men,  (among  whom  was  our  sailor-artist^)  were 
dispatched  with  a  whale-boat  to  reconnoiter.  They  soon 
discovered  the  men  to  be  Esquimaux,  who,  by  signs, 
professed  great  friendship,  ana  endeavored  to  get  the 
voyagers  to  accompany  them  to  their  homes  beyond 
the  hills.  They  declined  ;  and  as  soon  as  they  returned 
to  the  vessel,  the  expedition  again  pushed  forward,  and 
made  its  way  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  which  they 
reached  on  the  7th  of  August. 

At  Cape  Dudley  Digges  they  were  charmed  by  the 
sight  of  tne  Crimson  Cli&,  spoken  of  by  Captain  rarry 
and  other  arctic  navigators.  These  are  lony  clifis  of 
dark  brown  stone,  covered  with  snow  of  a  rich  crimson 
color.  It  was  a  magnificent  sight  in  that  cold  region, 
to  see  such  an  apparently  warm  object  standing  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  dark  blue  back-ground  of  a  polar 
sky.  This  was  the  most  northern  point  to  which  the 
expedition  penetrated.  The  whole  coast  which  they 
had  passed  from  Disco  to  this  cape  is  high,  rugged,  and 
barren,  only  some  of  the  low  points,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  bearing  a  species  of  dwarf  fir.  Northeast  from 
the  cape  rise  the  Arctic  Highlands,  to  an  unknown  alti- 


THK    AMERICAN    AKCllC    EXPEDiriO:^. 


369 


tude  ;  and  stretching  away  northward  is  the  unexplored 
Smith's  Sound,  filled  with  impenetrable  ice. 

From  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  Advance  and  Kes- 
cue,  beating  against  wind  and  tide  in  the  midst  of  the 
ice-fields,  made  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  then  chang- 
ing their  course  to  the  southwest,  emerged  from  tlie 
fields  into  the  open  waters  of  Lancaster  Sound.  Here, 
on  the  18tli  of  August,  they  encountered  a  tremendous 
gale,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  two 
vessels  parted  company  during  the  storm,  and  remained 
separate  several  clays.  Across  Lancaster  Sound,  the 
Advance  made  her  way  to  Barrow's  Straits,  and  on  the 
22d  discovered  the  Prince  Albert  on  the  soiithem  shore 
of  the  straits,  near  Leopold  Island,  a  mass  of  lofty, 
precipitous  rocks,  dark  and  barren,  and  hooded  and 
draped  with  snow.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  soon 
the  officers  and  crews  of  the  two  vessels  met  in  friendly 
greetinff.  Those  of  the  Prince  Albert  were  much  as- 
tonished, for  they  (being  towed  by  a  steamer,)  left  the 
Americans  in  Melville  Bay  on  the  6th,  pressing  north- 
ward through  the  pack,  and  could  not  conceive  how 
they  BO  soon  and  safely  penetrated  it.  Captain  For- 
syth had  attempted  to  reach  a  particular  point,  where 
he  intended  to  remain  through  the  winter,  but  finding 
the  passage  thereto  completely  blocked  up  with  ice,  he 
had  resolved,  on  the  very  day  when  the  Americans  ap- 
peared, to  "  'bout  ship,"  and  return  home.  This  fact, 
and  the  disappointment  felt  by  Mr.  Snow,  are  mentioned 
in  our  former  article. 

The  two  vessels  remained  together  a  day  or  two, 
when  they  parted  company,  the  Prince  Albert  to  re- 
turn  home,  and  the  Advance  to  make  further  explora- 
tions. It  was  oS  Leopold  Island,  on  the  22d  of  Au- 
gust, that  the  "  mad  Yankee  "  took  the  lead  through  the 
vast  masses  of  floating  ice,  so  vividly  described  by  Mr. 
Snow,  and  so  graphically  portrayed  by  the  sailor-artist. 
"  The  way  was  betbre  them,"  says  Mr.  Snow,  who  stood 
upon  the  deck  of  the  Advance  ;  "  the  stream  of  ice  had 
to  bo  either  gone  through  boldly,  or  a  long  detour  made* 
and,  despite  the  heaviness  of  the  -stream,  they  pttahed 


rfl 


i1 


If 


I 


"j 


370 


PROORK88  OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


the  vessel  through  in  her  prop&r  course.  Two  or  three 
ehocks,  as  she  came  in  contact  with  some  large  pieces, 
were  unheeded  ;  and  the  moment  the  last  oIock  was 
past  the  bow,  the  officer  sung  out,  ^  So  :  steady  as  she 
^oes  on  her  course ;'  and  came  aft  as  if  nothing  more 
tnan  ordinary  sailing  had  been  going  on.  I  observed 
our  own  little  bark  nobly  following  in  the  American's 
wake ;  and  as  I  alterward  learned,  she  got  through  it 
pretty  well,  though  not  without  much  doubt  of  the  pro- 
priety of  keeping  on  in  such  procedure  after  the  *  mad 
I  ankee,'  as  he  was  called  by  our  mate." 

From  Leopold  Island  the  Advance  proceeded  to  the 
northwest,  and  on  the  25th  reached  Cape  Riley,  an 
other  amorphous  mass,  not  so  regular  and  precipitate 
as  Leopold  Island,  but  more  lofty.  Here  a  strong  tide^ 
setting  in  to  the  shore,  drifted  the  Advance  toward  the 
beach,  where  she  stranded.  Around  her  were  small 
bergs  and  lar^e  masses  of  floating  ice,  all  under  the 
influence  of  tne  strong  current  It  was  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  she  struck.  By  diligent 
labor  in  removing  every  thing  from  her  deck  to  a  small 
floe,  she  was  so  lightened,  that  at  four  o'clock  the  next 
momiuff  she  floated,  and  soon  every  thing  was  properly 
replaced. 

I^ear  Gape  Biley  the  Americans  fell  in  with  a  por- 
tion of  an  English  Expedition,  and  there  also  the 
Itescue,  left  benind  in  the  gale  in  Lancaster  Sound, 
overtook  the  Advance.  There  was  Captain  Penny 
with  the  Sophia  and  Lady  Franklin ;  the  veteran  Sir 
John  Koss,  with  the  Felix,  and  Commodore  Austin, 
with  the  Resolute  steamer.  Together  the  navigators 
of  both  nations  explored  the  coast  at  and  near  Cape 
Biley,  and  on  the  27th  they  saw  in  a  cove  on  the  shore 
of  Beechey  Island,  or  Beechey  Cape,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel,  unmistakable  evi 
dence  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions  were 
there  in  April,  1846.  There  they  found  many  articles 
known  to  belong  to  the  British  Kavy,  and  some  that 
were  the  property  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  the  ships 
under  the  command  of  Sir  John.    There  lay,  bleached 


I 


I 

I 


ktors 

j)ape 

lore 

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levi 

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ice, 


on; 


Tins  AHERICAN  ARCriC  EXPEDITION. 


371 


to  the  whiteness  of  the  surrounding  snow,  a  piece  of 
canvas,  with  the  name  of  the  Terror,  marked  upon  it 
with  iuaestnictible  charcoal.  It  was  very  faint,  yet 
perfectly  legible.  Near  it  was  a 
^uide  board,  lying  flat  upon  its 
lace,  having  been  prostrated  by 
the  wind.  It  had  evidently  been 
used  to  direct  exploring  parties  to 
the  vessels,  or  rather,  to  the  en- 
campment on  shore.  The  board 
was  pine,  thirteen  inches  in  length 
and  six  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and 
nailed  to  a  boarding  pike  eight 
feet  in  length.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  sudden  opening  of  the 
ice,  caused  Sir  John  to  depart 
hastily,  and  in  so  doing,  this  pike 
and  its  board  were  left  behind. 
They  also  found  a  large  number 
of  tin  canisters, 
such  as  are  used 
for  packing  meats 
for  a  sea  voyage;  an 
anvil  block :  rem- 
nants of  clothing, 
which  evinced,  by 
numerous  patches 
and  their  thread- 
bare character,that 
they  had  been  worn 
as  long  as  the  own- 
ers could  keep  them  anvil  block. 
on ;  the  remains  of  an  India  Kubber  glove,  lined  with 
wool ;  some  old  sacks ;  a  cask,  or  tub,  partly  filled  with 
charcoal,  and  an  unfinished  rope-mat,  which,  like  other 
fibrous  fabrics,  was  bleached  white. 

But  the  most  interesting,  and  at  the  same  time  most 
melancholy  traces  of  the  navigators,  were  three  graves, 
in  a  little  sheltered  cove,  each  with  a  board  at  the  head, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  sleeper  below.    These  inecrip- 


GUIDE  BOABD. 


..  > 


[1 


^ 


If 


372 


FBOGBE86   OF    AlttTlU    DlaCOVKUV. 


tions  testify  positively  when  Sir  John  and  his  compan- 
ions were  there.  The  board  at  the  head  of  the  grave 
on  the  left  has  the  following  inscription  : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  John  Tobbinoton,  who 
departed  this  life,  January  Ist,  a  d.,  1846,  on  board 
her  Majesty's  ship  Terror,  aged  20  years." 

On  the  center  one  —  "Sacred  to  the  memory  of 
John  Habtnell,  A.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus ; 
died,  January  4th,  1846,  aged  25  years.  *  Thus  saith 
the  Lord  of  Hosts,  Consider  your  ways ;'  Ilaggai,  chap, 
i.  5,  7." 

On  the  right — "  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  W.  Bbaike, 
R.  M.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus,  who  died  April  3d, 
1846,  aged  32  years.  '  Choose  you  this  day  whom  you 
will  serve :'  Joshua,  chap,  xxiv.,  part  of  the  15th  verse." 


THBEE  0BAVE8  AT  BEECHET. 

1?  How  much  later  than  April  3d  (the  date  upon  the 
last-named  head-board,)  Sir  John  remained  at  Beechey, 
can  not  be  determined.  They  saw  evidences  of  his 
having  gone  northward,  for  sledge  tracks  in  that  di- 
rection were  visible.  It  is  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Kane 
that,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  in  the  spring,  Sir 
John  passed  northward  with  his  ships  through  Welling- 
ton Channel,  into  the  great  Polar  basin,  and  that  ho 
did  not  return.  This,  too,  is  the  opinion  of  Captain 
Penny,  and  he  zealously  urges  the  British  government 
to  send  a  powerful  screw  steamer  to  pass  through  that 


the 
ley, 

bis 

di- 
lane 

Sir 
ing- 

be 
tain 
lent 
Ihal 


li 


TUB  AMERICAN   ARCTIO  EXPEDITION. 


873 


channel,  and  explore  the  theoretically  more  hospitable 
coasts  beyond.  This  will  doubtless  be  undurtakeii 
another  season,  it  being  the  opinions  of  Captains  Parry, 
Beechoy,  Sir  John  Koss,  and  others,  expressed  at  a  con- 
ference with  the  board  of  Admiralty,  in  September,  tLat 
the  season  was  too  far  advanced  to  attempt  it  the  pres- 
ent year.  Dr.  Kane,  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Gfrinnell,  since 
the  return  of  the  expedition,  thus  expresses  his  opin- 
ion concerninir  the  safety  of  Sir  John  and  his  com- 


panions. After  saying,  ^'I  should  think  that  he  is 
now  to  be  sought  for  north  and  west  of  Cornwallis 
Island,"  he  adds,  ^^  as  to  the  chance  of  the  destruction 
of  his  party  by  the  casualties  of  ice,  the  return  of  our 
own  party  after  something  more  than  the  usual  share 
of  them,  is  the  only  fact  that  I  can  add  to  what  wo 
knew  when  we  set  out.  The  hazards  from  cold  and 
privation  of  food  may  be  almost  looked  upon  as  sub- 
ordinate. The  snow-hut,  the  fire  and  light  from  the 
moss-lamp  fed  with  blubber,  the  seal,  the  narwhal,  the 
white  whale,  and  occasionally  abundant  stores  of  mi- 
gratory birds,  would  sustain  vigorous  life.  The  scurvy, 
the  worst  visitation  of  explorors  deprived  of  perma- 
nent quarters,  is  more  rare  iu  the  depths  of  a  polar 
winter,  than  in  the  milder  weather  of  the  moist  sum- 
mer; and  our  two  little  vessels  encountered  both 
seasons  without  losing  a  man." 

Leaving  Beechey  Cape,  our  expedition  forced  its  way 
through  the  ice  to  Barrow's  Inlet,  where  they  narrowly 
escaped  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter.  They  endeav- 
ored to  enter  the  Inlet,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it 
their  winter  quarters,  but  were  prevented  by  the  mass 
of  pack-ice  at  its  entrance.  It  was  on  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1850,  when  they  arrived  there,  and  after  re- 
maining seven  or  eight  days,  they  abandoned  the 
attempt  to  enter.     On-  the  right  and  left  of  the  above 

ficture,  are  seen  the  dark  rocks  at  the  entrance  of  the 
niet,  and  in  the  center  of  the  frozen  waters  and  the 
range  of  hills  beyond.  There  was  much  smooth  ice 
within  the  Inlet,  and  while  the  vessels  lay  anchored 
to  the  ^'  field,"  officers  and  crew  exercised  and  amused 


# 


374 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


themselves  by  skating.  On  the  left  of  the  Inlet,  (in 
dicated  by  the  dark  conical  object,)  they  discovered  a 
Cairn,  (a  heap  of  stones  with  a  cavity,)  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  height,  which  was  erected  b^  Captain  Ommaney 
of  the  English  Expedition  then  in  the  polar  waters. 
Within  it  he  had  placed  two  letters,  for  "  Whom  it 
might  concern."  Uomrarnder  De  Haven  also  depos- 
ited a  letter  there.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  only  post- 
office  in  the  world,  free  for  the  use  of  all  nations.  The 
rocks,  here,  presented  vast  fissnres  made  by  the  frost; 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  on  the  right  that  powerful 
agent  had  cast  down  vast  heaps  of  debris. 

From  Barlow's  Inlet,  our  expedition  moved  slowly 
westward,  battling  with  the  ice  every  rood  of  the  way, 
until  they  reachea  Griffin's  Island,  at  about  96°  west 
longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  was  attained  on  the 
11th,  and  was  the  extreme  westing  made  by  the  expe- 
dition. All  beyond  seemed  impenetrable  ice;  and, 
despairing  of  making  any  further  discoveries  before  the 
winter  should  set  in,  they  resolved  to  return  home. 
Turning  eastward,  they  hoped  to  reach  Davis'  Strait 
by  the  southern  route,  before  the  cold  and  darkness 
came  on ;  but  they  were  doomed  to  disappointment. 
Near  the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel  they  became 
completely  locked  in  by  huramock-ice,  and  soon  found 
themselves  drifting  with  an  irresistible  tide  up  that 
channel  toward  the  pole. 

Now  began  the  most<perilou8  adventures  of  the  navi- 

fators.  The  summer  day  was  drawing  to  a  close ;  the 
iumal  visits  of  the  pale  sun  were  rapidly  shortening, 
and  soon  the  long  polar  night,  with  all  its  darkness  and 
horrors,  would  fj3l  upon  them.  Slowly  they  drifted  in 
those  vast  fields  of  ice,  whither,  or  to  what  result,  they 
knew  not.  Locked  in  the  moving  yet  compact  mass ; 
liable  at  every  moment  to  be  crusned  ;  far  away  from 
land  ;  the  mercury  sinking  daily  lower  and  lower  from 
the  zero  figure,  toward  the  point  where  that  metal 
freezes,  they  felt  small  hope  of  ever  reaching  home  again. 
Yet  they  prepared  for  winter  comforts  and  winter  sports, 
as  cheerfully  as  if  lying  safe  in  Barlow's  Inlet.    As  the 


le 


In 


THS  AMEBIOAIC  ASOTIO  BXFIDITIOir* 


875 


winter  advanced,  the  crews  of  both  the  vessels  went  on 
Doard  the  larger  one.  They  unshipped  the  rudders  of 
each,  to  prevent  their  being  injured  by  the  ice,  covered 
the  deck  of  the  Advance  with  felt,  prepared  their  stores, 
and  made  arrangements  for  enduring  the  long  winter, 
now  upon  them.  Physical  and  mental  activity  being 
necessary  for  the  preservation  of  health,  they  daily  ex- 
ercised in  the  open  air  for  several  hours.  They  built 
ice  huts,  hunted  the  huge  white  bears  and  the  little  polar 
foxes,  and  when  the  darkness  of  the  winter  night  had 
spread  over  them  they  arranged  in-door  amusements 
and  employments. 

Before  the  end  of  October,  the  sun  made  its  appear- 
ance for  the  last  time,  and  the  awful  polar  night 
closed  in.  Early  in  November  they  wholly  abandoned 
the  Rescue,  and  both  crews  made  the  Advance  their 
permanent  winter  home.  The  cold  soon  became  in- 
tense ;  the  mercury  congealed,  and  the  spirit  thermome- 
ter indicated  46°  below  zero  1  Its  averuge  range  was 
30°  to  35°.  They  had  drifted  helplessly  up  Wellington 
Channel,  almost  to  the  latitude  from  whence  Captain 
Penny  saw  an  open  sea,  and  which  all  believe  to  bo 
ihe  great  polar  basin,  where  there  is  a  more  genial 
clime  than  that  which  intervenes  between  the  Arctic 
Circle  and  the  75th  degree.  Here,  when  almost  in 
fiight  of  the  open  ocean,  that  mighty  polar  tide,  with 
its  vast  masses  of  ice,  suddenly  ebbed,  and  our  little 
vessels  were  carried  back  as  resistlessly  as  before, 
through  Barrow's  Straits  into  Lancaster  Sound  I  All 
this  while  the  immense  fields  of  hummock-ice  were 
moving,  and  the  vessels  were  in  hourlv  danger  of  being 
crushed  and  destroyed.  At  length,  while  drifting 
through  Barrow's  Straits,  the  congealed  mass,  as  it 
crushed  together  by  the  opposite  shores,  became  more 
compact,  and  the  Advance  was  elevated  almo'  ^  seven 
feet  oy  the  stem,  and  keeled  two  feet  eight  inc  .  star- 
board. In  this  position  she  remained,  with  very  little 
alteration  for  five  consecutive  months  ;  for,  soon  after 
entering  Baffin's  Bay  in  the  midst  of  the  winter,  the 

ice  became  frozen  in  one  immense  tract,  ooveiw;  uul- 

17  --0 


h 


870 


WKiniMMI  Of  AlCriO  OBCOVfiST. 


lions  eft  acres.  Thus  frozen  in,  sometimes  more  tbtn  a 
hundred  miles  from  land,  they  drifted  slowly  along  the 
Bonthwest  coast  of  Battin's  Bay,  a  distance  of  more  than 
a  Uiousand  miles  from  Wellington  Channel.  For  eleven 
weeks  that  dreary  night  continued,  and  daring  that 
time  the  disc  of  the  sun  was  never  seen  above  the  hori- 
zon. Yet  nature  was  not  wholly  forbidding  in  aspect. 
Sometimes  the  Aurora  Borealis  would  fl^h  up  still 
Airther  northward ;  and  sometimes  Aurora  Parhelia — 
mock  suns  and  mock  moons — would  appear  in  varied 
beauty  in  the  starry  sky.  Brilliant,  too,  were  the  north- 
em  constellations ;  and  when  the  real  moon  was  at  its 
ftill,  it  made  its  stately  circuit  in  the  heavens,  without 
descending  below  the  horizon,  and  lighted  up  the  vast 
piles  of  ice  with  a  pale  luster,  almost  as  great  as  the 
morning  twilights  of  more  genial  skies. 

Around  the  vessels  the  crews  built  a  wall  of  ice ;  anci 
in  ice  huts  they  stowed  away  their  cordage  and  storei 
to  make  room  for  exercise  on  the  decks.  They  organ- 
ized a  theatrical  company,  and  amused  themselves  and 
the  ofScers  with  comedy  well  performed.  Behind  the 
pieces  of  hummock  each  actor  learned  his  part,  and 
by  means  of  calico  they  transformed  themselves  into 
female  characters,  as  occasion  required.  These  dramas 
were  acted  on  the  deck  of  the  Advance,  sometimes 
while  the  thermometer  indicated  80°  below  zero,  and 
actors  and  audiences  highly  enjoyed  the  fhn.  Thev 
also  went  in  parties  during  that  long  night,  fully  armed, 
to  hunt  the  polar  bear,  the  grim  monarch  of  the  frozen 
North,  on  which  occasions  tney  often  encountered  peril- 
ous adventures.  They  played  at  foot-baU,  and  exercised 
themselves  in  drawing  sledges,  heavily  laden  with  pro- 
visions. Five  hours  or  .each  twenty-four,  they  thus  exer- 
cised in  the  open  air,  and  once  a  week  each  man  washed 
bis  whole  body  in  cold  snow  water.  Serious  sickness 
was  consequently  avoided,  and  the  soorvy  wMeh  at- 
tacked them  soon  yielded  to  remedies. 

Often  during  that  feariul  night,  they  expected  the 
disaster  ^f  having  their  vessels  cmshea.  All  iJirougb 
Novtmber  and  Deeember,  before  the  ice  became  fiist 


TIIK   AilKRICAN   AKCTIC   KXPF-DITION. 


377 


tlicy  slept  ill  tlicir  clothes,  with  knapsacks  on  their 
bac-KS,  and  sledges  upon  the  ice,  laden  with  stores,  not 
knowing  at  what  moment  tlie  vessels  miglit  be  demol- 
ished, and  themselves  forced  to  leave  them,  and  make 
their  way  toward  land.  On  tlie  8tli  of  December,  and 
the  23d  of  January,  they  acti  My  lowered  tiieir  boats 
and  stood  upon  the  ice,  for  the  crushing  masses  were 
making  the  timbers  of  the  gallar>  ^'^scrcreak  and  its 
decks  to  rise  in  the  center.  The}  \  :'o  then  m'nety 
miles  from  land,  and  hope  hardly  wiiispered  an  encour- 
aging idea  of  life  bein^  sustained.  On  the  latter  occa- 
sion, when  officers  and  crew  stood  upon  the  ice,  with 
the  ropes  of  their  provision  sledges  m  their  hands,  a 
terrible  snow-drift  came  from  the  northeast,  and  intense 
darkness  shrouded  them.  Had  tlie  vessel  then  been 
crushed,  all  must  have  perished.  But  God,  who  ruled 
the  stonn,  also  put  forth  His  protecting  arm  and  saved 
them. 

Early  in  February  the  northern  horizon  began  to  bo 
streaked  with  gorgeous  twilight,  the  herald  ot  the  ap- 
proaching king  of  day  ;  and  on  the  18tli  the  disc  of 
the  sun  first  appeared  above  the  horizon.  Ap  its  golden 
rim  rose  above  the  glittering  snow-drifts  and  piles  of 
ice,  three  hearty  cheei*s  went  up  from  those  haray  mar- 
iners, and  they  welcomed  their  deliverer  from  the 
chains  of  frost  as  cordially  as  those  of  old  who  chanted, 

"  See  !  the  conquering  hero  comes, 
Sound  the  tnimpet,  beat  the  druma" 

Day  after  day  it  rose  higher  and  higher,  and  while  the 
pallid  faces  of  the  voyagers,  bleached  during  that  long 
night,  darkened  by  its  beams,  the  vast  masses  of  ice 
began  to  yield  to  its  fervid  influences.  The  scurvy  dis- 
appeared, and  from  that  time,  until  their  arrival  home, 
not  a  man  suftered  from  sickness.  As  they  slowly 
drifted  through  Davis'  Straits,  and  the  ice  gave  indica- 
tions of  breaking  up,  the  voyagers  made  preparations 
for  sailing.  The  Kescue  was  re-occupied,  (Mav  13th, 
1851,)  and  her  stone-post,  which  had  been  broken  by 
the  ice  in  Barrow's  Straits,  was  repaired.  To  accom* 
plish  this,  they  were  obliged  to  dig  away  the  ice  which 


il 


378 


PKOOREBS  OF  AKCrTIG  DISCOVERY. 


was  frohi  12  to  14  feet  thick  around  her,  as  represented 
in  the  engraving.  They  reshipped  their  rudders  ;  re- 
moved the  felt  covering ;  placed  their  stores  on  deck, 
and  then  patiently  awaited  the  disruption  of  the  ice 
This  event  was  very  sudden  and  appalling.  It  began 
to  give  way  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  in  tne  space  of 
twenty  minutes  the  whole  mass,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  became  one  vast  field  of  moving  floes.  On  the 
10th  of  June,  they  emerged  into  open  water,  a  little 
south  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  latitude  65°  30'.  They^ 
immediately  repaired  to  Godhaven,  on  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  where  they  refitted,  and,  unappalled  by  the 
perils  through  which  they  had  just  passed,  they  once 
more  turned  their  prows  northward  to  encounter  anew 
the  ice  squadrons  of  Bafiin's  Bay.  Again  they  trav- 
ersed the  coast  of  Greenland  to  about  the  73d  de- 
gree, when  they  bore  to  the  westward,  and  on  the  7tb 
and  8th  of  July,  passed  the  English  whaling  fleet  near 
the  Dutch  Islands.  Onward  they  pressed  through 
the  accumulating  ice  to  Baffin's  Island,  where,  on 
the  11th,  they  were  joined  by  the  Prince  Albert,  then 
out  upon  another  cruise.  They  continued  in  com- 
pany until  the  3d  of  August,  when  the  Albert  departed 
for  the  westward,  determined  to  try  the  more  south 
em  passage.  Here  again  our  expedition  encountered 
vast  fields  of  hummock-ice,  and  were  subjected  to  the 
most  imminent  perils.  The  floating  ice,  as  if  moved  by 
adverse  currents,  tumbled  in  huge  masses,  and  reared 
upon  the  sides  of  the  sturdy  little  vessels  like  monsters 
of  the  deep  intent  upon  destruction.  These  masses 
broke  in  the  bulwarks,  and  sometimes  fell  over  upon 
the  decks  with  terrible  force,  like  rocks  rolled  over  a 
plain  by  mountain  torrents.  The  noise  was  fearftd  ;  bo 
deafening  that  the  mariners  could  scarcely  hear  each 
other's  voices.  The  sounds  of  these  rollinjg  masses,  to- 
gether with  the  rending  of  the  icebergs  floating  near, 
and  the  vast  floes,  produced  a  din  like  the  discharge  of 
a  thousand  pieces  of  ordnance  upon  a  field  of  battle. 
Finding  the  north  and  west  closed  against  further 
progress,  oy  impenetrable  ice,  the  brave  De  Haven  was 


of 

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beai 


THE  AMERICAN  ABGTIC  EXPEDITION. 


379 


balked,  and  turning  his  vessels  homeward,  they  camo 
out  into  an  open  sea,  somewhat  crippled,  but  not  a 
plank  seriously  started.  During  a  storm  off  the  banks 
of  Newfoundland,  a  thousand  miles  from  New  York, 
.the  vessels  parted  company.  The  Advance  arrived 
safely  at  the  Navy  Yard  at  Brooklyn  on  the  30th  of 
September,  and  the  Rescue  joined  her  there  a  few  days 
afterward.  Toward  the  close  of  October,  the  govern- 
ment resigned  the  vessels  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Grin- 
nell,  to  be  used  in  other  service,  but  with  the  stipulation 
that  they  are  to  be  subject  to  the  order  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy  in  the  spring,  if  required  for  another 
expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

We  have  thus  given  a  very  brief  account  of  the  prin- 
cipal events  of  interest  connected  with  the  American 
Arctic  Expedition  ;  the  officers  of  which  will  doubtless 
publish  a  more  detailed  narrative.  Aside  from  the  suc- 
cess which  attended  our  little  vessels  in  encountering  the 
perils  of  the  polar  seas,  there  are  associations  which  must 
forever  hallow  the  effort  as  one  of  the  noblest  exhibitions 
of  the  true  glory  of  nations.  The  navies  of  America  and 
England  have  before  met  upon  the  ocean,  but  they  met 
for  deadly  strife.  Now,  too,  they  met  for  strife,  equally 
determined,  but  not  with  each  other.  They  met  m  the 
holy  cause  of  benevolence  and  human  sympathy,  to 
battle  with  the  elements  beneath  the  Arctic  Circle  ;  and 
the  chivalric  heroism  which  the  few  stout  hearts  of  the 
two  nations  displayed  in  that  terrible  conflict,  redounds 
a  thousand-fold  more  to  the  glory  of  the  actors,  their 
governments,  and  the  race,  than  if  four-score  ships, 
with  ten  thousand  armed  men  had  fought  for  the  mas- 
tery of  each  other  upon  the  broad  ocean,  and  battered 
hulks  and  marred  corpses  had  gone  down  to  the  coral 
caves  of  the  sea,  a  dreadful  offering  to  the  demon  of 
Distord.  In  the  latter  event,  troops  of  widows  and  or- 
phan children  would  have  sent  up  a  cry  of  wail ;  now, 
the  heroes  advanced  manfully  to  rescue  husbands  and 
fathers  to  restore  them  to  their  wives  and  children. 
How  glorious  the  thought  I  and  how  suggestive  of  the 
beauty  of  that  fast  approaching  day,  when  tho  n*\tiw« 


380 


PB00RKS8  09  AUGTIC  DISOOV'KK'/. 


eball  Bit  down  iu  pcaco  as  united  children  of  one 
household. 

Winter  in  the  ARcrno  Ocean. 

The  following  narrative,  showing  the  wapr  the  wintei 
of  1851-62  was  passed  by  those  engaged  in  the  recent 
arctic  expedition,  is  from  the  official  report  made  by 
Lieut.  De  Haven,  the  Commander  of  the  expedition : 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  13th  Sept.,  1850,  the  wind 
having  moderated  sufficiently,  we  got  under  way,  and 
working  our  way  through  some  streams  of  ice,  arrived 
in  a  few  hours  at  *  Griffith's '  Island,  under  the  lee  of 
which  we  found  our  consort  made  fast  to  the  shore, 
where  she  had  taken  shelter  in  the  gale,  her  crew  hav- 
ing suftered  a  good  deal  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weatlier.  In  bnnging  to  under  the  lee  of  the  island, 
she  had  the  misfortune  to  spring  her  rudder,  so  that  on 
joining  us,  it  was  with  mucli  difficulty  she  could  steer. 
To  insure  her  safety  and  more  rapid  progress,  she  was 
taken  in  tow  by  the  Advance,  when  siie  oore  up  with 
a  fine  breeze  from  the  westward.  Oft'  Cape  Martyr, 
we  left  the  English  squadron  under  Capt.  Austin. 
About  ten  miles  further  to  the  east,  the  two  vessels  un- 
der Capt.  Penny,  and  that  under  Sir  John  Ross,  were 
seen  secured  near  the  land.  At  8  p.  m..  we  had  ad- 
vanced as  far  as  Cape  Ilotham.  Thence  as  far  as  the 
increasing  darkness  of  the  night  enabled  us  to  see,  there 
was  notlnng  to  obstruct  our  progress,  except  the  bay 
ice.  This,  with  a  good  breeze,  would  not  have  im- 
peded us  much ;  but  unfortunately  the  wind,  when  it  was 
most  requii^ed,  failed  us.  The  snow,  with  which  tlie 
surface  of  the  water  was  covered,  rajjidly  cemented, 
and  fonned  a  tenacious  coat,  through  which  it  was  im- 
possible with  all  our  appliances  to  force  the  vessels.  At 
8  p.  M.,  they  came  to  a  dead  stand,  some  ten  miles  to 
the  east  of  Barlow's  Inlet. 

"The  following  da^  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward, 
from  which  quarter  it  lasted  till  the  19th.  During  this 
period  the  young  ico  was  broken,  its  edges  squeezed  up 


WiM'KIt    I»S    TUK    AIUTIC   OCK.IN. 


abi 


liko  hammocks,  and  ono  fl'>o  overrun  by  anotlicr  until 
it  all  assumed  the  iiiipcaranco  of  lieavy  ico.  Tlic  ves- 
sels received  .  "ine  heuvy  nips  iVoni  it,  but  they  with- 
stood them  witiiuiit  injury.  Whenever  a  1)(h»1  of  water 
made  its  a|)j)earance,  every  ellort  was  nuule  to  reaeh  it, 
in  hopes  tiuit  it  would  lead  us  into  iieeciiey  IsJand,  or 
Bomo  other  place  where  the  vessel  mi<;lit  be  placed  in 
security  ;  for  the  winter  set  in  unusiuilly  early,  aiul  the 
severity  with  which  it  connnenccd,  forbade  all  hopes 
of  our  being  able  to  return  this  season.  I  now  becaujo 
anxious  to  attain  a  point  in  the  neighborhood,  from 
whence  by  means  of  land  parties,  in  the  8i)ring,  a  goodly 
extent  of  Wellington  Channel  might  be  examined. 

"  In  tfie  mean  time,  under  the  mllutmce  of  the  south 
wind,  we  were  being  set  up  the  channel.  On  the  ISth 
we  were  above  Cape  liowden,  the  most  northern  point 
Been  on  this  shore  uy  Parry.  The  land  on  both  snores 
was  seen  much  further,  and  trended  considerably  to  the 
west  of  north.  To  account  for  this  drift,  the  hxed  ico 
of  Wellington  Channel,  which  we  had  observed  in  ])as8- 
ing  to  the  westward,  must  have  been  broken  up  and 
driven  to  the  southward  by  the  lieavy  galeof  the  12th. 
On  the  19th  the  wind  veered  to  the  north,  which  gave 
•us  a  southerly  set,  fJ.ircing  us  at  the  same  time  with  the 
western  shore.  This  did  not  last  long;  for  the  next  day 
the  wind  hauled  again  to  the  south,  and  blew  fresh, 
bringing  the  ice  in  upon  us  with  much  pressure.  At 
midnight  it  broke  up  all  around  us,  so  that  we  had  work 
to  maintain  the  Aclvance  in  a  safe  j)osition,  and  keep 
ber  from  being  separated  from  her  consort,  M'hich  was 
immovably  lixed  in  the  center  of  a  large  floe. 

"We  contimied  to  drill  slowly  to  the  N.  N.  W.,  until 
the  22d,  when  our  progress  appeared  to  be  arrested  by 
a  small  low  island,  which  was  discovered  in  that  direc- 
tion, about  seven  miles  distant.  A  channel  of  three  or 
four  miles  in  width  separated  it  from  Cornwallis  Island. 
This  latter  island,  trending  N.  W.  from  our  ])Osition, 
terminated  abruptly  in  an  elevated  caj)e,  to  which  I 
have  given  the  name  6f  Manning,  after  a  warm  per- 
fional  friend  and  ardent  6U])])ortcr  of  the  ox])cdition. 


382 


PB00BES9   OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Between  Comwallis  Island  and  some  distant  high  land 
visible  in  the  north,  appeared  a  wide  channel  leadinc 
to  the  westward.  A  dark,  misty-looking  cloud  whicli 
hung  over  it,  (technically  termed  frost-smoke,)  was  in- 
dicative of  much  open  wator  in  that  direction.  This 
was  the  direction  in  which  my  instructions,  referring  to 
the  investigations  of  the  National  Observatory,  concern- 
ing the  winds  and  currents  of  the  ocean,  directed  me  tc 
look  for  open  water.  Nor  was  the  open  water  the  only 
indication  that  presented  itself  in  confirmation  of  thie 
theoretical  conjecture  as  to  a  milder  climate  in  that 
•  direction.  As  we  entered  Wellington  Channel,  the 
signs  of  animal  life  became  more  abundant,  and  Cap- 
tain Penny,  commander  of  one  of  the  English  expe- 
ditions, who  afterward  penetrated  on  sledges  much 
toward  the  region  of  the  '  frost-smoke,'  much  further 
than  it  was  possible  for  us  to  do  in  our  vessels  reported 
that  he  actually  arrived  on  the  borders  of  this  open  sea. 
"Thus,  these  admirably  drawn  instructions,  deriving 
arguments  from  the  enlarged  and  comprehensive  sys- 
tem of  physical  research,  not  only  pointed  with  em- 
phasis to  an  unknown  sea  into  which  Franklin  had 
probably  found  his  way,  but  directed  me  to  search  for 
traces  of  his  expedition  in  the  very  channel  at  the 
entrance  of  which  it  is  now  ascertained  he  had  passed 
his  first  winter.  The  direction  in  which  searcn  with 
most  chances  of  success  is  now  to  be  made  for  the 
missing  expedition,  or  for  traces  of  it,  is  no  doubt  in 
the  direction  which  is  so  clearly  pojnted  out  in  my  in- 
structions. To  the  channel  which  appeared  to  lead 
into  the  open  sea  over  which  the  cloud  of '  frost-smoke ' 
hung  as  a  sign,  I  have  given  the  name  of  Maury,  after 
the  distinguished  gentleman  at  the  head  of  our  National 
Observatory,  whose  theory  with  regard  to  an  open  sea 
to  the  north  is  likely  to  be  realized  through  this  chan- 
nel. To  the  large  mass  of  land  visible  between  N.  W. 
to  N.  N.  E.,  I  gave  the  name  of  Grinnell,  in  honor  of 
the  head  and  heart  of  the  man  in  whose  philanthropic 
mind  originated  the  idea  of  this  expedition,  and  ^ 
whose  munificence  it  owes  its  existence. 


WINTER    IN    THE   AKCTIC   OCEAN. 


383 


"  To  a  remarkable  peak  bearing  N.  N.  E.  from  us, 
distant  about  forty  miles,  was  given  the  name  of 
Mount  Franklin.  An  inlet  or  harbor  immediately  to 
the  north  of  Cape  Bowden  was  discovered  by  Mr. 
Griffin  in  his  land  excursion  from  Point  Innes,  on  the 
27th  of  August,  and  has  received  the  name  of  Griffin 
Inlet.  The  small  island  mentioned  before  was  called 
Murdausb's  Island,  -atter  the  acting  master  of  the  Ad- 
Tance.  The  eastern  shore  of  Wellington  Channel  ap- 
peared to  run  parallel  with  the  western,  but  it  became 
quite  low,  and  being  covered  with  snow,  could  not  be 
distinguished  with  certainty,  so  that  its  continuity  with 
the  high  land  to  the  north  was  not  ascertained.  Some 
email  pools  of  open  water  appearing  near  us,  an  attempt 
was  made  about  fifty  yards,  but  all  our  combined 
efforts  were  of  no  avail  in  extricating  the  Kescue  from 
her  icy  cradle.  A  change  of  wind  not  only  closed  the 
ice  up  again,  but  threatened  to  give  a  severe  nip.  We 
unshipped  her  rudder  and  placed  it  out  of  harm's  way. 

"  September  22d,  was  an  uncomfortable  day.  The 
wind  was  from  N.  E.  with  snow.  From  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning,  the  floes  began  to  be  pressed  together 
with  so  much  force  that  their  edge  was  thrown  up  in 
immense  ridges  of  rugged  hummocks.  The  Advance 
was  heavily  nipped  between  two  floes,  and  the  ice  was 
piled  up  so  high  above  the  rail  on  the  starboard  side 
as  to  threaten  to  come  on  board  and  sink  us  with  its 
weight.  All  hands  were  occupied  in  keeping  it  out. 
The  pressure  and  commotion  did  not  cease  till  near 
midnight,  when  we  were  very  glad  to  have  a  respite 
from  our  labors  and  fears.  The  next  day  we  were 
threatened  with  a  similar  scene,  but  it  fortunately 
ceased  in  a  short  time.  For  the  remainder  of  Septem- 
ber, and  until  the  4th  of  October,  the  vessels  drifted 
but  little.  The  winds  were  very  light,  the  thermometer 
fell  to  minus  12,  and  ice  formed  over  the  pools  in  sight, 
sufficiently  strong  to  travel  upon.  We  were  now 
strongly  impressed  with  the  belief  that  the  ice  had  be- 
come fixed  for  the  winter,  and  that  we  should  be  able 
to  send  out  traveling  parties  from  the  advanced  position 

17* 


I 


384 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


for  the  examination  of  the  lands  to  the  northward 
Stimulated  by  this  fair  prospect,  another  attempt  wan 
made  to  reach  the  shore  in  order  to  establish  a  depo^ 
of  prov  isions  at  or  near  Cape  Manning,  which  would 
materially  facilitate  the  progress  of  our  parties  in  thf» 
spring ;  but  the  ice  was  still  found  to  be  detached  froip 
tne  shore,  and  a  narrow  lane  of  water  cut  us  from  it. 

"  During  the  interval  of  comparative  quiet,  prelimi  • 
nary  measures  were  taken  for  heating  the  Advance 
and  increasing  her  quarters,  so  as  to  accomodate  the 
officers  and  crew  of  both  vessels.  No  stoves  had  &» 
yet  been  used  in  either  vessel ;  indeed  they  could  not 
well  be  put  up  without  placing  a  large  quantity  of  stores 
and  fuel  upon  the  ice.  The  attempt  was  made  to  do 
this,  but  a  sudden  crack  in  the  floe  where  it  appeared 
strongest,  causing  the  loss  of  several  tons  of  coal,  con- 
vinced us  that  it  was  not  yet  safe  to  do  so.  It  was  not 
until  the  20th  of  October,  we  got  fires  below.  Ten 
days  later  the  housingcloth  was  put  over,  and  the  offi- 
cers and  crew  of  the  Kescue  ordered  on  board  the  Ad- 
vance for  the  winter.  Room  was  found  on  the  deck  of 
the  Rescue  for  many  of  the  provisions  removed  from 
the  hold  of  this  vessel.  Still  a  large  quantity  had  to 
be  placed  on  the  ice.  The  absence  of  fire  below  had 
caused  much  discomfort  to  all  hands  ever  since  the  be- 
ginning of  September,  not  so  much  from  the  low  tem- 
perature, as  from  the  accumulation  of  moisture  by 
condensation,  which  congealed- as  the  temperature  de- 
creased, and  covered  the  wood  work  of  our  apartments 
with  ice.  This  state  of  things  soon  began  to  work  its 
effect  upon  the  health  of  the  crews.  Several  cases  of 
scurvy  appeared  among  them,  and  notwithstanding  the 
indefatigable  attention  and  active  treatment  resorted  to 
by  the  medical  officers,  it  could  not  be  eradicated  —  its 
progress,  however,  was  checked. 

"All  through  October  and  ITovember,  we  were  drifted 
to  and  fro  by  the  changing  wind,  but  never  passing  out 
of  "Wellington  Channel.  On  the  1st  of  November,  the 
new  ice  had  attained  the  thickness  of  37  inches.  Still, 
frequent  breaks  would  occur  in  it,  often  in  fearful  prox- 


f 


1*1 


WUTTIB  IN  TH£  ABGTIO  00£AV. 


885 


unity  to  the  vessels.  Hummoclcs  consisting  of  massive 
granite-like  blocks,  would  be  thrown  up  to  the  hei<^ht 
of  twenty,  and  even  thirty  feet.  This  action  in  the  ice 
was  accompanied  with  a  variety  of  sounds  impossible 
to  be  described,  but  when  heard  never  failed  to  carry  a 
feeling  of  awe  into  the  stoutest  hearts.  In  tlie  stillness 
of  an  arctic  night,  they  could  be  heard  several  miles, 
and  often  was  the  rest  of  all  hands  disturbed  by  them. 
To  guard  against  the  worst  that  could  happen  to  us  — 
the  destruction  of  the  vessels  —  the  boats  were  prepared 
and  sledges  built.  Thirty  days'  provisions  were  placed 
in  for  all  hands,  together  with  tents  and  blanket  bags 
for  sleeping  in.  Besides  this,  each  man- and  officer  had 
his  knapsack  containing  an  extra  suit  of  clothes.  These 
were  all  kept  in  readiness  for  use  at  a  moment's  notice. 
"For  the  sake  of  wholesome  exercise,  as  well  as  to  in- 
ure the  people  to  ice  traveling,  frequent  excursions  were 
made  with  our  laden  sledges.  The  officers  usually  took 
the  lead  at  the  drag  ropes,  and  tliey,  as  well  as  the  men 
underwent  the  labor  of  surmounting  the  rugged  hum- 
mocks, with  great  cheerfulness  and  zeal.  Kotwith- 
Btanding  the  low  temperature,  all  hands  usually  returned 
in  a  profuse  perspiration.  We  had  also  other  soured 
of  exercise  and  amusements,  such  as  foot-ball,  skating, 
sliding,  racing,  with  theatrical  representations  on  holi- 
days and  national  anniversaries.  These  amusements 
were  continued  throughout  the  Winter,  and  contributed 
very  materially  to  the  cheerfulness  and  general  good 
health  of  all  hands.  The  drift  had  ^set  us  gradually  to 
the  S.  E.,  until  we  were  about  five  miles  to  the  S.  W. 
of  Beechey  Island.  In  this  position  we  remained  com- 
paratively stationary  about  a  week.  We  once  more 
began  to  entertain  a  hope  that  we  had  become  fixed  for 
the  winter,  but  it  proved  a  vain  one,  for  on  the  last  day 
of  November  a  strong  wind  from  the  westward  set  in, 
with  thick  snowy  weather.  The  wind  created  an  im- 
mediate movement  in  the  ice.  Several  fractures  took 
place  near  us,  and  many  heavy  hummocks  were  thrown 
up.  The  floe  in  which  our  vessels  were  imbedded,  was 
being  rapidly  encroached  upon,  bo  that  we  were  in  mo- 


li 


! 


I 

: 


380 


fROQRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


mentary  fear  of  the  ice  breaking  from  around  them, 
and  that  tlicy  would  be  once  more  broken  out  and  left 
to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  crashing  floes. 

"  On  the  following  day  (the  Ist  of  December)  the 
weather  cleared  off,  and  the  few  hours  of  twilight 
which  we  had  about  noon,  enabled  us  to  get  a  glimpse 
of  the  land.  As  well  as  we  could  make  it  out,  we  ap- 
peared to  be  off  Gascoigno  Inlet.  "We  were  now  clear 
of  Wellington  Channel,  and  in  the  fair  way  of  Lan- 
caster Sound,  to  be  set  either  up  or  down,  at  the  mercy, 
of  the  prevailing  winds  and  currents.  We  were  not 
long  left  in  doubt  ^s  to  the  direction  we  had  to  pursue. 
The  winds  prevailed  from  the  westward,  and  our  drift 
was  steady  and  rapid  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Sound. 
The  prospect  before  us  was  now  any  thing  but  cheering. 
We  were  deprived  of  our  last  fond  hope,  that  of  be- 
coming fixed  in  some  position  whence  operations  could 
be  carried  on  by  means  of  traveling  parties  in  the 
spring.  The  vessels  were  fast  being  set  out  of  the 
region  of  search.  Nor  was  this  our  only  source  of  un- 
easiness. The  line  of  our  drift  was  from  two  to  five 
miles  from  the  north  shore,  and  whenever  the  moving 
ice  met  with  any  of  the  capes  or  projecting  points  of 
land,  the  obstruction  would  cause  fractures  in  it,  ex- 
tending off  to  and  far  beyond  us.  Gape  Hurd  was  the 
first  and  most  prominent  point — we  were  but  two 
miles  from  it  on  the  3d  of  December.  Nearly  all  day 
the  ice  was  both  seen  and  heard  to  be  in  constant  mo- 
tion at  no  great  distance  from  us.  In  the  evening  a 
crack  on  our  floe  took  place  not  more  than  twenty-five 
yards  ahead  of  the  Advance.  It  opened  in  the  course 
of  the  evening  to  the  width  of  190  yards. 

"  No  further  disturbance  took  place  until  noon  of  the 
6th,  when  we  were  somewhat  startled  by  the  familiar 
and  unmistakable  sound  of  the  ice  grinding  against 
the  side  of  the  ship.  Going  on  deck,  1  perceived  that 
another  crack  had  taken  place,  passing  along  the  length 
of  the  vessel.  It  did  not  open  more  than  a  foot ;  this, 
however,  was  sufficient  to  liberate  the  vessel,  and  she 
rose  several  inches  bodily,  having  become  more  buoy- 


II 


WINTER  IN  TUB  ARCnO  OCEAN. 


887 


ant  since  slie  froze  in.  The  following  day,  in  tlie 
evening  the  crack  opened  several  yards,  leaving  the 
sides  01  the  Ad^  ance  entirely  free,  and  she  was  once 
more  supported  by  and  rode  in  her  own  element.  "We 
were  not,  though,  by  any  means,  in  a  pleasant  situation. 
The  floes  were  considerably  broken  in  all  directions 
around  us,  and  one  crack  had  taken  place  between  the 
two  vessels.  The  Rescue  was  not  disturbed  in  her  bed 
of  ice. 

"  December  7th,  at  8  A.  M.,  the  crack  in  which  we 
were,  had  opened  and  formed  a  lane  of  water  fifty-six 
feet  wide,  communicating  ahead  at  the  distance  of  sixty 
feet  with  ice  of  about  one  foot  in  thickness,  which  had 
formed  since  the  3d.  The  vessel  was  secured  to  the 
largest  floe  near  us  (that  on  which  our  spare  stores  were 
deposited.)  At  noon,  the  ice  was  again  in  motion, 
and  began  to  close,  affording  us  the  pleasant  prospect 
of  an  inevitable  nip  between  two  floes  of  the  heaviest 
kind.  In  a  short  time  the  prominent  points  took  our 
side,  on  the  starboard,  just  about  the  main-rigging,  and 
on  the  port  under  the  counter,  and  at  the  fore-rigging ; 
thus  bringing  three  points  of  pressure  in  such  a  position 
that  it  mustjhave  proved  fatal  to  a  larger  or  less 
strengthened  vessel.  The  Advance,  however,  stood  it 
bravely.  After  trembling  and  groaning  in  every  joint, 
the  ice  passed  under  and  raised  her  about  two  and 
a  half  feet.  She  was  let  down  again  for  a  moment, 
and  then  her  stern  was  raised  about  five  feet.  Her 
bows  being  unsupported,  were  depressed  almost  as 
much.  In  this  imcomfortable  position  we  remained. 
The  wind  blew  a  gale  from  the  eastward,  and  the  ico 
all  around  was  in  dreadful  commotion,  excepting,  for- 
tunately, that  in  immediate  contact  with  us.  The  com- 
motion in  the  ice  continued  all  through  the  night;  and 
we  were  in  momentary  expectation  of  the  destruction 
of  both  vessels.  The  easterly  gale  had  set  us  some 
two  or  three  miles  to  the  west.  As  soon  as  it  was  light 
enough  to  see  on  the  9th,  it  was  discovered  that  the 
heavy  ice  on  which  the  Rescue  had  been  imbedded 
for  so  long  a  time,  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  piled 


SSb 


PR0GBE8S   OF  AtUJllG  DISCOYEKT. 


up  around  her  in  massive  hummocks.  On  her  pumps 
being  sounded,  I  was  gratified  to  learn  that  she  remained 
tight,  notwithstanding  the  immense  straining  and 
pressure  she  must  have  endured. 

"  During  this  period  of  trial,  as  well  as  in  all  former 
and  subsequent  ones,  I  could  not  avoid  being  struck 
with  the  calmness  and  decision  of  the  officers,  as  well 
as  the  subordination  and  ^ood  conduct  of  the  men, 
without  an  exception.  Each  one  knew  the  imminence 
of  the  peril  that  surrounded  us,  and  was  prepared  to 
abide  it  with  a  stout  heart.  There  was  no  noise,  no 
confusion.  I  did  not  detect,  even  in  the  moment  when 
the  destruction  of  the  vessel  seemed  inevitable,  a  sin- 
gle desponding  look  among  the  whole  crew ;  on  the 
contrary,  each  one  seemed  resolved  to  do  his  whole 
duty,  and  every  thing  went  on  cheerily  and  bravely. 
For  my  own  part,  I  had  become  quite  an  invalid,  so 
much  so  as  to  prevent  my  taking  an  active  part  in  the 
duties  of  the  vessel  as  I  had  always  done,  or  even  from 
incurring  the  exposure  necessary  to  proper  exercise. 
However,  I  felt  no  apprehensions  that  the  vessel  would 
not  be  properly  taken  care  of,  for  I  had  perfect  confi- 
dence in  one  and  all  by  whom  I  was  surrounded.  I 
knew  them  to  be  equal  to  any  emergency,  but  I  felt 
under  special  obligations  to  the  gallant  commander 
of  the  Rescue,  for  the  efficient  aid  he  rendered  me. 
With  the  kindest  consideration,  and  the  most  cheerful 
alacrity,  he  volunteered  to  perform  the  executive  duties 
during  the  winter,  and  relieve  me  from  every  thing 
that  might  tend  in  the  least  to  retard  my  recovery. 

"  During  the  remainder  of  December,  the  ice  re- 
mained quiet  immediately  around  us,  and  breaks  were 
all  strongly  cemented  by  new  ice.  In  our  neighbor- 
hood, however,  cracks  were  daily  visible.  Our  drift 
to  the  eastward  averaged  nearly  six  miles  ^  .er  day ;  so 
that  on  the  last  of  the  month  we  were  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Sound,  Cape  Osborn  bearing  north  from  us. 

"January,  1851. —  On  passing  out  of  the  Sound,  and 
opening  Baffin's  Bay,  to  the  north  was  seen  a  dark  hori- 
zon, in£cating  much  open  water  in  that  direction.    On 


WINTER   IN  THE  AECTIC  OCEAN. 


389 


the  11th,  a  crack  took  place  between  ns  and  the  Kescue, 
passing  close  under  our  stem,  and  forming  a  lane  of 
water  eighty  feet  wide.  In  the  afternoon  the  floes  be- 
gan to  move,  the  lane  was  closed  up,  and  the  edges  of 
the  ice  coming  in  contact  with  so  much  pressure,  threat- 
ened the  demolition  of  the  narrow  space  which  sepa- 
rated us  from  the  line  of  fracture.  Fortunately,  the 
floes  again  separated,  and  assumed  a  motion  by  which 
the  Rescue  passed  from  our  stern  to  the  port  bow,  and 
increased  her  distance  from  us  709  yards,  where  she 
came  to  a  stand.  Our  stores  that  were  on  the  ice  were 
on  the  same  side  of  the  cracks  as  the  Rescue,  and  of 
course  were  carried  with  her.  The  following  day  the 
ice  remained  quiet,  but  soon  after  midnight,  on  the 
13th,  a  gale  having  sprung  up  from  the  westward,  it 
once  more  got  into  violent  motion.  The  yoimg  ice  in 
the  crack  near  our  stern  was  soon  broken  up,  the  edges 
of  the  thick  ice  came  in  contact,  and  fearful  pressures 
took  place,  forcing  up  a  line  of  hummocks  which  ap- 
proached within  ten  feet  of  our  stem.  The  vessel 
trembled  and  complained  a  great  deal. 

"  At  last  the  floe  broke  up  around  us  into  many 
pieces,  and  became  detached  from  the  sides  of  the 
vessel.  The  scene  of  frightful  commotion  lasted  until 
4  A.  M.  Every  moment  I  expected  the  vessel  would 
be  crushed  or  overwhelmed  by  the  massive  ice  forced 
up  far  above  our  bulwarks.  The  Rescue  being  further 
removed  on  the  other  side  of  the  crack  from  the  lino 
of  crushing,  and  being  firmly  imbedded  in  heavy  ice, 
I  was  in  hopes  would  remain  undisturbed.  This  was 
not  the  case;  for,  on  sending  to  her  as  soon  as  it  was 
light  enough  to  see,  the  floe  was  found  to  be  broken 
away  entirely  up  to  her  bows,  and  there  formed  into 
such  high  hummocks  that  her  bowsprit  was  broken  ofl*, 
together  with  her  head,  and  all  the  light  wood  work 
about  it.  Had  the  action  of  the  ice  continued  much 
longer,  she  must  have  been  destroyed.  We  had  the 
misfortune  to  find  sad  havoc  had  been  made  among 
the  stores  and  provisions  left  on  the  ice ;  and  few  bar- 
rels were  recovered ;  but  a  large  portion  were  crushed 
and  had  disappeared. 


390 


PBOOBESe  OF  ABCTTIC  DISCX)VEBY. 


"  On  the  morning  of  the  14th  there  was  again  Bomo 
motion  in  the  floes.  That  on  the  port  side  moved  off 
from  the  vessel  two  or  three  feet  and  there  became 
stationary.  This  left  the  vessel  entirely  detached 
from  the  ice  round  the  water  line,  and  it  was  expected 
she  would  once  more  resume  an  upright  position.  ^  In 
this,  however,  we  were  disappointed,  lor  sne  remained 
with  her  stern  elevated,  and  a  considerable  lift  to  star- 
board, being  held  in  this  uncomfortable  position  by  the 
heavy  masses  which  had  been  forced  under  her  bottom 
She  retained  this  position  until  she  finally  broke  out 
in  the  spring.  We  were  now  fully  launched  into  Baf- 
fin's Bay,  and  our  line  of  drift  began  to  be  more  south- 
erly, assuming  a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the 
western  shore  of  the  Bay  at  a  distance  of  from  40  to 
70  miles  from  it. 

"  After  an  absence  of  87  days,  the  sun,  on  the  29th 
of  January,  rose  his  whole  diameter  above  the  south- 
ern horizon,  and  remained  visible  more  than  an  hour. 
All  hands  gave  vent  to  delight  on  seeing  an  old  friend 
again,  in  three  hearty  cheers.  The  length  of  the  days 
now  went  on  increasing  rapidly,  but  no  warmth  was 
yet  experienced  from  the  sun's  rays ;  on  the  contrary 
the  cold  became  more  intense.  Mercury  became  con- 
gealed in  February,  also  in  March,  which  did  not  occur 
at  any  other  period  during  the  winter.  A  very  low 
temperature  was  invariably  accompanied  with  clear 
and  calm  weather,  so  that  our  coldest  days  were  per- 
haps the  most  pleasant.  In  the  absence  of  wind,  we 
could  take  exercise  in  the  open  air  without  any  incon- 
venience from  the  cold.  But  with  a  strong  wind  blow 
ing,  it  was  dangerous  to  be  exposed  to  its  chilling  blasts 
for  any  length  of  time,  even  when  the  thermometer 
indicated  a  comparatively  moderate  degree  of  tem- 
perature. 

"  The  ice  around  the  vessels  soon  became  cemented 
again  and  fixed,  and  no  other  rupture  was  experienced 
until  it  finally  broke  up  in  the  spring,  and  allowed  us 
to  escape.  Still  we  kept  driving  to  the  southward 
along  with  the  ai  hole  mass.    Open  lanes  of  water  were 


WINTER  IN  THE  AROTIO  OOEA. 


891 


lotne 

loff 

;ame 

ched 

Bcted 

.    In 

ained 

►  Btar- 

ly  the 

)ttoin 

j:e  out 

oBaf- 

Bouth- 

h  the 

L4:0tO 

e  29th 
south- 
1  hour, 
friend 
e  days 
;h  was 
>ntrary 
e  con- 
It  occur 
iry  low 
clear 
|re  per- 
d,  we 
incon- 
blow 
blasts 
iineter 
tem- 

lented 
Kenced 

red  us 
Ihward 
Ir  were 


visible  at  all  times  from  aloft ;  sometimes  they  would 
be  formed  within  a  mile  or  two  of  ns.  Narwhals, 
seals,  and  dovekys  were  seen  in  them.  Our  sports- 
men were  not  expert  enough  to  procure  any,  except  a 
few  of  the  latter ;  although  they  were  indefatigable  in 
their  exertions  to  do  so.  Bears  would  frequently  be 
seen  prowling  about ;  only  two  were  killed  during  the 
winter ;  others  were  wounded,  but  made  their  escape. 
A  few  of  us  thought  their  flesh  very  palatable  and 
wholesome ;  but  the  majority  utterly  rejected  it.  The 
flesh  of  the  seal,  when  it  could  be  obtained,  was  re- 
ceived with  more  favor. 

"  As  the  season  advanced,  the  cases  of  scurvy  became 
more  numerous,  yet  they  were  all  kept  under  control 
by  the  unwearied  attention  and  skillful  treatment  of 
the  medical  officers.  My  thanks  are  due  to  them,  es- 
pecially to  Passed  Assistant  Surgeon  Kane,  the  senior 
medical  officer  of  the  expedition.  I  often  had  occa- 
sion to  consult  him  concerning  the  hygiene  of  tiie 
crew,  and  it  is  in  a  great  measure  owing  to  the  advice 
which  he  save  and  the  expedients  which  he  recom- 
mended, that  the  expedition  was  enabled  to  return 
without  the  loss  of  one  man.  By  the  latter  end  of 
February  the  ice  had  become  sufficiently  thick  to  en- 
able us  to  build  a  trench  around  the  stem  of  the  Res- 
cue, sufficiently  deep  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the 
injury  she  had  received  in  the  gale  at  Griffith's  Isl- 
and. It  was  not  found  to  be  material ;  the  upper  gud- 
geon alone  had  been  wrenched  from  the  stem  post.  It 
was  adjusted,  and  the  mdder  repaired  in  readiness  for 
shipping,  when  it  should  be  required.  A  new  bow- 
sprit was  also  made  for  her  out  of  the  few  spare  spars 
we  had  left,  and  every  thing  made  seaworthy  in  both 
vessels  before  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice. 

"In  May,  the  noon-day  began  to  take  effect  upon  the 
snow  which  covered  the  ice ;  the  surface  of  the  floea 
became  watery,  and  difficult  to  walk  over.  Still  the 
dissolution  was  so  slow  in  comparison  with  the  mass 
to  be  dissolved,  that  it  must  have  taken  it  a  long  pe- 
riod to  become  liberated  from  this  cause  alone.    Mora 


392 


I'UOGKKSa    OF    AUCTIC    lUSCoVERY. 


was  expected  from  our  sonthorly  drift,  which  still  con- 
tinued, and  must  soon  carry  us  into  a  milder  climato 
and  open  sea.  On  the  19th  of  IMay,  the  land  about 
Cape  Soarle  was  made  out,  the  first  that  we  had  scon 
since  passing  Cape  Walter  Bathurst,  about  the  20th  of 
January.  A  few  days  later  we  were  oft'  Capo  Walsing- 
ham,  and  on  the  27th,  passed  out  of  the  Arctic  Zone. 

"  On  the  1st  of  April,  a  hole  was  cut  in  some  ice  that 
had  been  forming  since  our  first  besctment  in  Septem- 
ber; it  was  found  to  have  attained  the  thickness  of  7 
feet  2  inches.  In  this  month,  (April,)  the  amelioration 
'  of  the  temperature  became  quite  sensible.  All  hands 
were  kept  at  work,  cutting  and  sawing  the  i  i3  around 
the  vessels,  in  order  to  allow  them  to  float  oiioe  more. 
With  the  Rescue,  they  succeeded,  after  mucl»  labor,  in 
attaining  this  object ;  but  around  the  stern  of  the  Ad- 
vance, the  ice  was  so  thick  that  our  13  feet  saw  was  too 
short  to  pass  through  it ;  her  bows  and  sides,  as  far  aft 
as  the  gangway,  were  liberated.  After  making  some 
alteration  in  the  Rescue  for  the  better  accommodation 
of  her  crew,  and  fires  being  lighLfd  on  board  of  her 
several  days  previous,  to  remove  the  ice  and  dampness, 
which  had  accumulated  during  the  winter,  botli  officers 
and  crew  were  transferred  to  her  on  the  24th  of  April. 
The  stores  of  this  vessel,  which  had  been  taken  out, 
were  restored,  the  housing  cloth  taken  off,  and  the  ves- 
sel made  in  every  respect  ready  for  sea.  There  was 
little  prospect,  however,  of  our  being  able  to  reach  the 
desired  element  very  soon.  The  nearest  water  was  a 
narrow  lane  more  than  two  miles  distant.  To  cut 
through  the  ice  which  intervened,  would  have  been  next 
to  impossible.  Beyond  this  lane,  from  the  mast-head, 
nothing  but  intermediate  floes  could  be  seen.  It  was 
thought  best  to  wait  with  patience,  and  allow  nature  to 
work  for  us. 

"June  6th,  a  moderate  breeze  from  S.  E.  with  pleasant 
^vcather  —  thermometer  up  to  40  at  noon,  and  altogether 
quite  warm  and  molting  day.  During  the  morning  a 
peculiar  cracking  sound  was  heard  on  the  floe.  I  was 
mclined  to  impute  it  to  the  settling  of  the  snow  dnf>.s  an 


*.«!:; 


WINTKK    IN    TIIK    AU(TIC   (XJKAN. 


they  were  acted  upon  by  the  8un,  but  in  tho  atlernoon, 
about  6  o'clock,  tho  puzzle  was  solved  very  lucidly,  and 
to  the  exceeding  satisfaction  of  all  hands.  A  crack  in 
tho  floo  took  place  between  us  and  tlic  Rescue,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  thereafter,  tho  whole  immense  field  in 
which  we  had  been  imbedded  for  so  many  montlis, 
was  rent  in  all  directions,  leaving  not  a  ^jiece  of  100 
yards  in  diameter.  The  rupture  was  not  accompanied 
with  any  noise.  The  Rescue  M-as  entirely  li])erated, 
the  Advance  only  partially.  Tiie  ice  in  whicli  her  after 
part  was  imbeddea,  still  adhered  to  her  from  the  main 
chains  aft,  kceijing  her  stern  elevated  in  its  nnsightly 
position.  The  pack,  (as  it  may  now  be  called,)  became 
quite  loose,  and  but  for  our  pertinacious  friend  acting 
as  an  immense  drug  upon  ns,  we  might  have  made 
some  headway  in  any  desired  direction.  All  our  efforts 
were  now  turned  to  getting  rid  of  it.  Witli  saws,  axes, 
and  crowbars,  tho  people  M'ont  to  wt)rk  with  a  right 
g()od  will,  and  after  hard  labor  tor  48  hours  succeeded. 
The  vessel  was  again  afloat,  and  slie  righted.  Tiio  joy 
of  all  hands  vented  itself  spontaneously  in  tln-eo  hearty 
cheers.  The  after  part  of  the  false  keel  was  gone,  be- 
ing carried  away  by  the  ice.  The  loss  of  it,  however, 
I  was  glad  to  perceive,  did  not  materially  afiect  tho 
sailing  or  working  qualities  of  the  vessel.  The  rudders 
were  shipjjed,  and  we  were  once  more  ready  to  move, 
as  efficient  as  on  the  day  wo  left  New  York. 

"Steering  to  the  S.  E.  and  working  slowly  through  tho 
loose  but  heavy  pack,  on  the  9th  we  parted  from  tho 
Rescue  in  a  dense  fog,  she  taking  a  different  lead  from 
the  one  the  Advance  was  purauing." 


i 


jant 
:her 


'•* 


394  PBUQSSM  OF  ABOTIO  DUOOVKBT. 

IdLTttf  AoootJim — Obovsd  fOB  Hon. 

Mr.  Wm.  Penny,  of  Aberdeen,  states  in  a  letter  to 
the  Times,  that  Oapt.  Martin,  who,  when  commanding 
the  whaler  Enterprise,  in  1845,  was  the  last  person  to 
communicate  with  Sir.  J.  Franklin,  has  just  mformed 
him  that  the  Enterprise  was  alongside  the  Erebus,  in 
Melville  Bay,  and  Sir  John  Franklin  invited  him, 
(Oapt.  Martm,)  to  dine  with  him,  which  the  latter  de- 
clined doing,  as  the  wind  was  fair  to  go  south.  Sir 
John,  while  conversing  with  Oapt.  Martin,  told  him 
•that  he  had  five  years'  provisions,  which  he  could 
make  last  seven,  and  his  people  were  busily  engaged 
in  salting  down  birds,  of  which  they  had  several  casks 
ftill  already,  and  twelve  men  were  out  shooting  more. 
**To  see  such  determination  and  foresight,"  observes 
Mr.  Penny,  **  at  that  early  period,  is  really  wonderful, 
and  must  give  us  the  greatest  hopes.''  Mr.  Penny 
Bays  that  Oieipt.  Martin  is  a  man  of  fortune,  and  of  the 
■triotest  inte^ty. 

The  followmg  is  the  deposition  of  Oapt.  Martin,  just 
received  in  the  London  Times,  of  Jan.  1,  1852,  con- 
taining the  facts  above  alluded  to : 

Bobert  Martin,  now  master  and  commander  of  the 
whaleship  Intrepid,  of  Peterhead,  solemnly  and  sin- 
cerely declares  that  on  the  22d  day  of  July,  18452when 
in  command  of  the  whale  ship  Enterprise,  of  Peter- 
head, in  lat.  Y6**  10',  long.  66°  "W.,  calm  weather,  and 
towing,  the  Erebus  and  Terror  were  in  company.  These 
ships  were  alongside  the  Enterprise  for  about  fifteen 
minutes.  The  declarant  conversed  with  Sir  John 
Franklin,  and  Mr.  Keid,  his  ice-master.  The  conver- 
sation lasted  all  the  time  the  ships  were  close.  That 
Sir  John,  in  answer  to  a  question  by  the  declarant  if 
he  had  a  ffood  supply  of  provisions,  and  how  long  he 
expected  uiem  to  last,  stated  that  he  had  provisions 
for  five  years,  and  if  it  were  necessary  he  could  ''make 
them  spm  out  seven  years ;"  and  he  said  farther,  that 
he  would  lose  no  opportunity  of  killing  birds,  and 
whatever  else  was  useral  that  oame  in  the  way,  to  keep 


LAT£irT   AOUOUMiV. 


396 


up  their  Block,  and  that  he  had  plenty  of  powder  and 
Bhot  for  the  purpose.  That  Sir  John  also  stated  that 
lie  had  already  several  casks  of  birds  salted,  and  had 
tlien  two  shooting  parties  out  —  one  from  each  ship. 
The  birds  wore  very  numerous ;  many  would  fall  at  a 
single  shot,  and  the  declarant  has  himself  killed  forty 
at  a  shot  with  white  pease.  That  the  birds  are  very 
agreeable  food,  are  m  taste  and  size  somewhat  like 
young  pigeons,  and  are  called  by  the  sailors  "  rotges." 

That  on  tlie  26th  or  28th  of  said  month  of  July,  two 
parties  of  Sir  John's  officers,  who  had  been  out  snoot- 
ing, dined  with  the  declarant  on  board  the  Enterprise. 
There  was  a  boat  with  six  from  each  ship.  Their  con- 
versation was  to  the  same  effect  as  Sir  John's.  They 
spoke  of  expecting  to  be  absent  four  or  five,  or  per- 
haps six  years.  Tuese  officers  also  said  that  the  snips 
would  winter  where  they  could  find  a  convenient  place, 
and  in  spring  push  on  as  far  as  possible,  and  so  on 
year  ailer  year,  as  the  determination  was  to  pusli  on 
as  far  as  practicable. 

That  on  the  following  day,  an  invitation  was  broueht 
to  the  declarant,  verbally,  to  dine  with  Sir  John,  But 
the  wind  shifted,  and  the  Enterprise  having  cut  through 
the  ice  about  a  mile  and  a  naif,  the  declarant  was 
obliged  to  decline  the  invitation.  That  he  saw  the 
Erebus  and  Terror  for  two  days  longer;  they  were 
still  lying  at  an  iceberg,  and  the  Enterprise  was  mov- 
ing slowly  down  the  country.  That  so  numerous  were 
the  birds  mentioned,  and  so  favorable  was  the  weather 
for  shooting  them,  that  a  very  large  number  must  have 
been  secured  during  the  time  the  declarant  was  in 
eight  of  the  two  ships.  The  Prince  of  "Wales  whaler 
wjis  also  within  sight  during  the  most  of  the  time. 
Chat  from  the  state  of  the  wind  and  weather  for  a  pe- 
riod of  10  days,  during  part  of  which  the  declarant 
•vas  not  in  sight  of  the  two  ships,  the  best  opportunity 
was  afforded  for  securing  the  birds.  That  the  birds 
described  are  not  to  be  found  at  all  places  on  the  fish- 
ing ground  during  the  whaling  season,  but  are  met 
with  in  vast  numbers  every  season  on  certain  feeding 


m 


396 


PitOGBKSa   OF  AIKTIK!   DISCOVEKY. 


V'"^'  *, 


banks  and  places  for  brooding,  and  it  appeared  at  the 
time  by  the  declarant  to  be  a  most  fortunate  circum- 
stance that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  had  fallen  in  with 
so  many  birds,  and  that  the  state  of  the  weather  was 
so  favorable  for  securing  large  numbers  of  them.  The 
declarant  has  himself  had  a  supply  of  the  same  de- 
scription of  birds,  which  kept  fresh  and  good  during 
three  months,  at  Davis'  Strait,  and  the  last  were  as 
good  as  the  first  of  them. 

"Which  declaration,  above  written,  is  now  made 
conscientiously,  believing  the  same  to  be  true. 

EoBEBT  Mabtin. 

Declared,  December,  29th,  1851,  before 

K.  Gbath,  Provost  of  Peterhead. 

From  this  it  would  appear  that  it  is  not  impossible, 
perhaps  not  improbable,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  may 
vet  make  his  appearance,  coming  down  from  those  ice- 
Dound  regions  bringing  with  him  his  noble  ships  and 
their  danng  crews,  and  giving  joy  to  thousands  upon 
thousands  who  are  watching  with  intense  interest  the 
unraveling  of  the  mystery  of  his  absence,  and  espe- 
cially bringing  joy  inexpressible  to  the  heart  of  that 
noble  lady,  with  which  thousands  of  hearts  throughout 
the  civilized  world  beat  in  sympathy. 


.:* 


•.#- 


BOOKS   AKCBMTLT    PUBLISHED    BT    DKllBY    A    MILLSB. 


SEWARD'S  LIFE  OF  JOHN  Q.  ADAMS. 


*  •  We  are  glad  to  see  a  pretty  full  account  of  Mr.  Adams'  Anti-Slavery 
•flbrts  in  Congress  have  been  given;  for,  great  as  his  public  services  were  during  a 
long  life,  his  greatest  fame  with  the  present  and  future  generations,  will  rest  upon 
his  ctForts  to  break  down  the  Slave  power.  The  great  men  who  eulogized  Mr. 
Adams  in  Congress  and  el.sewherc,  generally  passed  silently  over  this  part  of  hia 
life,  as  if  it  was  something  not  very  creditable  to  him,  and  to  be  talked  about  as  littlo 
as  possible.  Mr.  Seward  has  taken  a  better  view  of  the  subject.  We  can  recom- 
mend this  biography  as  being  a  clear  and  concise  history  of  Mr.  Adams'  life.         * 

*  *    Lowell  Republican,  {Free  Soil.) 

It  is  a  work  well  written,  prepared  evidently  with  care,  conveys  an  excellent  idea 
of  the  life  and  services  of  that  distinguished  patriot  and  statesman.  It  is  well 
adapted  for  popular  reading,  and  comes  within  the  means  of  every  citizen.    *  * 

And  possessing,  as  it  does,  a  fund  of  historical  and  biographical  information,  of  iho 
most  interesting  description,  it  will  be  a  desirable  book  for  the  iibiary  and  a  welcomo 
companion  to  any  man  who  cherishes  a  respect  for  the  memory  of  Adams,  *     , 

*  *        Boston  Journal. 

*  *  We  have  read  it  and  are  delighted  with  the  good  t!i«te  and  discrimina- 
tion with  which  facts  and  cotemporary  events  are  brought  lu'  to  show  forth  the 
noble  and  manly  stand  of  John  Quincy  Adams.  Next  to  our  r.  iiionnl  pride,  that  we 
have  such  great  and  good  pien  to  adorn  the  pages  of  our  histoi;-,  we  should  glory  in 
having  authors  like  Wm   H.  Seward,  to  chronicle  their  lives  u...  their  doeda.     ' 

*  •        Massachusetts  Eagle. 

The  association  of  such  names  as  Adams  and  Seward,  one  as  the  subject  of  tne 
biography,  and  the  other  as  the  biographer,  must  give  to  this  work  an  interest  whica 
rarely  attaches  to  anything  emanating  from  an  American  pen.        *  •  •     , 

Washington  Advocate. 

We  would  recommend  this  work  to  every  class  of  mind  —  to  the  vicious,  that  they 
may  be  benefited  by  the  contrast  —  to  the  virtuous,  that  they  uny  bo  incited  to  aiill 
higher  attainments  —  to  the  patriot,  that  the  love  of  country  n:;iy  be  reuowed  in  hia 
bosom  —  to  the  Christian,  that  he  may  see  how  to  honor  God  ia  exalted  positions  — 
to  the  young,  that  they  may  drink  from  the  pure  rill  of  patviotiin,  and  loaru  to 
cherish  and  protect  their  privileges  —  and  lastly  to  the  old,  that  tlay  may  yet  onco 
more  read  the  lessons  of  wisdom,  as  they  distilled  from  the  li;)s  of  him  who  was  a 
Nestor  among  statesmen. —  Wisco7isin  Chronicle. 

This  volume  has  been  now  but  a  few  months  before  the  public,  during  which  vm. 
understand  that  some  20,000  copies  have  been  circulated.  The  fact  is  siiflir.ient  to 
•ihow  that  the  deceased  statesman  has  found  a  worthy  biographer.  Dt  iijned  for 
popular  use,  and  prepared  from  the  materials  existing  in  public  documents  and 
journals,  it  is  a  book,  nevertheless,  that  c^innot  fail  to  be  read  with  interest  by  the 
scholar  as  well  as  the  masses.  The  writer  seems  imbued  with  a  sincere  reverenc« 
for  the  great  man  whose  career  he. chronicles,  and  depicts  its  various  eventful 
incidents  with  spirit  and  fidelity.  There  is  no  book  thai  wo  now  remember,  whicfc 
presents  in  the  same  compass  so  much  that  is  interesting  in  our  history,  during  tha 
period  of  which  It  treats.—  Washington  Repubiic 


«^ 


BooiM'  latciJMfLt  p&BwtttH^  vt  ttmoii  *  Mistaft 


SEWARD'S  UPE  OF  JOHN  Q.  ADAMS. 


•■  •       We  are  glad  to  see  a  pretty  full  account  of  Mr.  Adams'  Anti-Slavery 

•flbrts  In  Congress  have  been  given ;  for,  great  as  his  public  s«rvicos  were  during  a 
long  life,  his  greatest  fame  with  the  present  and  future  generations,  will  rest  upon 
his  efforts  to  break  down  the  Slave  power.  The  great  men  who  eulogized  Mr. 
Adams  in  Congress  and  elsewhere,  generally  passed  silently  over  this  part  of  his 
life,  as  if  it  was  something  tiot  very  creditable  to  him,  and  to  be  talked  about  as  little 
as  possible.  Mr.  Seward  has  taken  a  better  view  of  the  subject.  We  can  recom- 
mend this  biography  as  being  a  clear  and  concise  history  of  Mr.  Adams'  life.        * 

*  *    Lowell  Republican,  {Free  Soil.) 

It  is  a  work  well  written,  prepared  evidently  with  care,  conveys  an  excellent  idea 
of  the  life  and  services  of  that  distinguished  patriot  and  statesman.  It  is  well 
adapted  for  popular  reading,  and  comes  within  the  means  of  every  citizen.    *  * 

And  possessing,  as  it  dues,  a  fund  of  historical  and  biographical  information,  of  tb« 
most  interesting  description,  it  will  be  a  desirable  book  for  the  library  and  a  welcome 
companion  to  any  man  who  cherishes  a  respect  for  th«  memory  uf  Adams.  * 

*  *        Boston  Journal. 

*  *  We  have  read  it  and  are  delighted  with  the  good  taste  and  dlscrimina* 
tion  with  which  facts  and  cotemporary  events  are  brought  in  to  show  forth  tha 
noble  and  manly  stand  of  John  Quincy  Adains.  Next  to  our  national  pride,  that  we 
have  such  great  and  good  men  to  adorn  the  pages  of  our  history,  we  should  glory  in 
having  authors  like  Wm,  H.  Seward,  to  chronicle  their  lives  and  thoir  deeds.    * 

.  *        Massachusetts  Eagle. 

The  association  of  such  names  as  Adams  and  Soward,  one  as  the  subject  of  the 
biography,  and  the  other  as  the  biographer,  must  give  to  this  work  an  interest  which 
rarely  attaches  to  anything  emanating  from  an  American  pen.        *  '  •  ^^ 

Wc^hington  Advocate. 

We  would  recommend  this  work  to  every  class  of  mind  —  to  the  vicious,  that  they 
may  be  benefited  by  the  contrast  —  to  the  virtuous,  that  they  may  be  incited  to  still 
higher  attainments  —  to  the  patriot,  that  the  love  of  country  may  be  renewed  in  his 
bosom  —  to  the  Christian,  that  he  may  see  how  to  honor  God  in  exalted  poeitions  — 
to  the  young,  that  they  may  drink  from  the  pure  riU  of  patriotism,  and  learn  to 
cherish  and  protect  their  privileges  —  and  lastly  to  the  old,  that  they  may  yet  once 
more  read  the  lessons  of  wisdom,  as  they  distilled  fh>m  the  lips  of  him  who  was  a 
Nester  among  statesmen.—  Wisconsin  Chronicle. 

This  volume  has  been  now  but  a  few  months  before  the  public,  during  whioh  we 
understand  that  some  20,000  copies  have  been  circulated.  The  fact  is  sufficient  to 
Aow  that  the  deceased  statesman  has  found  a  worthy  biographer.  Designed  for 
popular  use,  and  prepared  from  ihe  materials  existing  in  public  documents  and 
journals,  it  is  a  book,  nevertheless,  that  cannot  fail  to  be  read  with  interest  by  the 
scholar  as  well  as  the  masses.  The  writer  seems  imbued  with  a  sincere  reverence 
for  the  great  man  whose  career  he  chronicles,  and  depicts  its  various  eventful 
incidents  with  spirit  and  fidelity.  There  is  no  book  that  we  now  remember,  which 
(jipesents  in  the  same  compass  so  much  that  is  interesting  in  our  history,  during  Uw 
period  of  whioh  it  treats.—  Waahin^fton  B^fubtie. 


Mr  snnr  *  muju. 


The  American  Lady't  Sjritem  of  Cookery,  com- 
pxiaing  every  yariely  of  information  for  ordinary  and  Holidqr 
occadons.    By  Mrs.  T.  J.  Cbowek. 

The  *'  Amtrtcan  System  of  Cookery  "  ii  a  eapiul  book  of  its  class,  and  for  whiek 
wa  bespeak  the  good  word  of  all  thnftj  housekeepen.  It  introduces  us  into  a  wit* 
dt;mess  of  sweets,  where  no  rude  surfeit  reigns!  Tlw  almost  innumerable  variety  of 
good  tliingB,  clearly  and  orderly  set  forth,  Is  moat  apetixinc  for  the  hungry  reader, 
just  before  dinner. 

Hbre  is  an  American  housewife,  sensible  and  thrifty,  wlio  has  laid  down  directioo* 
for  making  all  sorts  of  dishes,  baking  all  kinds  of  cakea  and  pies,  manufacturing  erery 
TarietT  orconfectionery,  preaerring,  pickling,  &c.,  so  plainly  that  a  housekeeper  or 
M  week's  standing  can  easily  act  upon  her  directions,  and  yet  taken  so  comprehenaiTa 
a  scope,  that  the  very  best  and  moat  skilful  will  ilnd  something  new.  We  taka  for 
granted,  that  as  the  latest,  it  is  the  best  book  of  iu  class. 


The  writer  of  this  roluma  has  preTiousIy  published  a  similar  work,  on  a  bbmI 
Mala—**  ETenr  Ladjr'a  Book"— ofwhieh  mora  than  two  hondrorl  thousand  eopiea  ara 
Mid  to  hare  Mea  sold.    If  this  ia  not  popularity,  wa  know  not  what  iM,—LUtrary 
World, 

The  **Amatlcan  Syatem  of  Cookery,"  ia  tha  titla  of  a  goodly  sixed  duodecimo,  pab* 
llahed  in  New  York.  The  authoress  of  this  work  haa  obuined  considerable  celebrity, 
by  a  work  which  she  entitled  *'  Eirery  Lady's  Book,"  and  wa  belieTe  she  will  add  ta 
kar  dMsrrad  sradit  bT  tha  present  roluma,  which  cornea  home  lo  the  stanack  «f 
•Taty  mao.    Tlw  recelpta  are  abundant  and  practieaL— AbttA  Americmt. 

Of  all  tha  tafonna,  none  ia  more  loudly  called  for  thaa  ooa  in  Ameriean  Cooka^-> 
that  being  one  in  wliich  oTorybody  is  Imerested.  That  the  national  health  woula  ba 
battar,  if^tha  national  Utclwn  were  more  philosophically  and  phyorologically  man** 
nd,  taara  aaema  to  be  no  doubt  anywhere.  Even  morala  aufier,  beyond  question, 
ttroui^  the  infloeaca  of  cruda,  ill-selected  aliment.  Who  Imows  but  the  Mexican 
war  mayba  traced  to  an  ill-cooied,  ill-assorted,  contradictory,  and  irriuting  eabinat 

Mnnmrt 

A  Lady  of  Naw  York  tails  ua  how  lo  make  a  great  many  nice,  wholesome  thingn^ 
and  wa  beg  our  ^'eaders  not  to  imagine  we  speak  rashly,  or  eren  theoretically,  vrai 
Uda  all-important  subject— wa  hare  tasted,  and  wa  testify  without  a  aisgiTing.  •*«• 
proof  of  the  pudding,"  etc— Uhton  Migaxine. 

lliua  our  wife  Mttles  the  question.  The  mme  author's  "  Brery  Lady'e  Book,"  elM 
aaid.  might  be  UMful  for  some  folks,  but  the  real  aimon  pure,  Yankee,  Amerieaa 
Cook  Book,  waa  the  thing  exactly,  Just  such  a  book  as  she  should  liaTe  made,  if  aha 
had  cookedf  it  up  herMlf.  She  nys  it  ia  made  on  common  eense  principled ;  the  mlea 
are  exactly  aneh  as  sensible  folks  follow  in  this  democratic  land,  who  regard  tasta, 
kaaltli,  ana  aeonomy.  Our  wi A  «avs  ^bat.  witii  soma  Cook  Books,  one  haa  to  deduat 
half  tlia  spice,  shortning  and  au^ar.  Oui-  book,  howerer.  m  our  wife  declares,  la 
praetiMbla,  and  is  to  ba  followed  to  tha  lauar.-~Olm<ml  Wa$hirtgtonian  Ansa. 

Thia  book  is  compiled  by  a  perMa  af  praetlMl  knowledge  of  the  subject,  who,  aa 
ftatad  bi  the  preface,  han  been  for  the  last  eight  yean  emplofed  in  collecting  infer* 
nation  on  the  snbjeet  of  the  work,  and  in  reducing  to  praetiea  the  receipts  obtained. 
'-Evtning  Pott. 

By  tha  spidBSH  of  tiw  pralhea,  and  by  tha  Tary  ftnmy  apiatle  with  wAich  tiia  an* 
thoresa  of  this  book  sanda  ua  a  copy,  we  cannot  doubt  tier  to  be  a  woman  of  talait ; 
and  M  Mrs.  Child  has  appUad  her  genina  to  the  maUnf  of  anch  a  book,  wa  can  tM* 
liara  OTen  a  Cooking  Book  nay  ba  better  for  genioa  ia  tha  writer.— ITorm  Journal. 

Thisappaara  to  be  tha  moat  complete  aad  ntisfaetory  eoOMtion  of  receipta  ia  wa 
calinary  art.  which  tha  skill  and  enterpriw  of  American  ladieii  ^voted  to  tha  aabjeai^ 
kaTepradaSfld.  fteoalainaalaigaamoBBtof aatteriaaTolaMaef Tarygoodain, 
aaamanqaLaodwekayMafldaBM,frem  tha  deeidad  taatimonyof  thoM  who  haya 
iMiad  ftaiMrita,  1b  iiwniiMniling  tt  to  boaaa-kaapan.— /yvfwMMf  OtersAswi. 


BOOKS   AECENTLT   PUBLISHED   BT   DERBY   A   MILLEH. 

The   Missionary   Offering,  a  memorial  of  Christ's 
lig^      Messengers  in  Heathen  Lands,  dedicated  to  Dr.  Judson, 
8  engravings,  12mo.,  muslin.  $1,25. 

We  have  seen  nu  book  of  late  which,  upon  a  hasty  examination,  we  could  more 
cheerfully  and  confidently  recommend.  The  history  of  the  labors  of  Missionaries 
In  foreign  lands  has  always  been  one  of  unsurpassed  interest  to  a  great  class  of  every 
community,  by  whom  such  enterprizes  are  conducted,  and  in  no  similar  work  hava 
we  seen  this  history  more  ably  and  truthfully  set  forth  than  in  the  oie  before  us.— 
Bt^lfulo  Commercial  Advertiser. 

Here  ia  a  volume  of  about  four  hundred  pages,  neatly  printed  and  illustrated, 
.made  up  of  the  most  interesting  matter,  from  the  pens  of  the  firpt  writers.  Such  a 
work  cannot  fail  to  interest.  What  a  glorious  band  have  cast  aside  the  heart-cling- 
ing ties  of  home,  country,  and  friends,  and  borne  the  peaceful  emblem  of  Chris- 
tianity to  the  darkest  climes.  Bloody  rites  have  ceased,  the  funeral  flame  ia 
extinguished,  the  crushing  car  has  ceaoed  to  roll,  and  mental  and  moral  darkness 
has  given  away  before  the  silent  labors  of  the  missionary.  The  records  of  such  a 
history  cannot  but  interest,  revealing  as  they  do,  some  of  the  sublimest  features  in 
the  character  of  man  —  sacrifices  and  toils  and  triumphs,  before  which  the  brightest 
achievements  of  earth  dwindle  into  folly. —  Cayuga  Chief. 

Tub  Missionart  Opperino  is  composed  of  poetical  and  prose  writings  of  rare 
excellence,  reminiscences  and  incidents  connected  with  foreign  and  home  missions, 
&,c.  We  consider  it  a  valuable  and  interesting  book,  especially  to  the  Christian  and 
philanthropist,  and  all  who  look  upon  the  missionary  enterprise  as  an  institution, 
*jnder  the  guidance  of  Providence,  for  the  moral  regeneration  of  the  world.— CeTtera 
Gazette. 


Rational  Psychology,  or  the  subjective  idea  and  the 
objective  law  of  aU  intelligence:  by  Laurens  P.  Hickok, 
D.  D.,  Professor  of  Christian  Theology  in  the  Theological 
Seminary,  Auburn. 

The  few,  not  the  many,  will  find  pleasure  end  improvement  in  the  study  of  a 
treatise  like  this,  discussing  with  much  ability  and  research,  indicative  of  close  and 
I  atient  thought,  the  abstruse  science  of  mind,  and  reaching  principles  by  a  carefu] 
induction  of  well  arranged  and  considered  facts.  The  author  has  favorably  intro- 
duced himself,  in  this  work,  to  the  thinking  portion  of  the  religious  public,  and  will 
calmly  await  the  verdict  of  the  learned  world  upon  this  elaborate  performanca.  II 
is  a  bandsomelj  printed  ootavo  of  700  pages.— .Y.  Y.  Obmntr. 


BOOKS   REOKim.r   PUBLISHED    BT   DERBY    /k   MILLER. 

The  Odd  Fellows'  Amulet :  or  the  principles  of  Odd 
Fellowship  defined  ;  the  objections  to  the  order  answered  ; 
and  its  advantages  maintained ;  with  an  address  to  the  pub- 
lic, the  ladies,  and  the  order.  By  Rev.  D.  W.  Bristol,  Pas- 
tor of  the  M.  E.  Church,  and  P.  G.  of  Osco  Lodge,  No.  304, 
at  Auburn,  N.  Y. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Bristol,  the  author  of  the  above  work,  is  n  popular  clergyman  of  tljo 
Methodist  church.  He  appears  to  have  wiiiien  the  work  not  merely  for  Odd  Fellown, 
but  to  disabuse  the  i>ublic  mind,  if  possible,  of  prejudices  I'ornicd  against  the  Order. 
A  spirit  and  design  of  apparent  sincerity  apjiears  to  pervade  the  entire  work,  and  tho 
writer  discusses  his  themes  and  meets  the  objections  urged  against  Odd  Fellows,  with 
a  great  deal  of  candor  and  respect.  No  person,  we  think,  can  road  it,  whatever  may 
have  been  his  prejudices  hitherto,  without  having  those  [irejudices  at  least,  conside. 
rably  softened,  if  not  wholly  taken  away.  The  style  of  the  writer  is  captivating, 
while  the  arrangement  and  clas.^ification  of  his  subjects  adds  interest  to  the  volume. 
We  have  no  hesitancy  m  recommending  the  Amulet  as  a  book  that  may  be  read  by 
tho  public  — Genesee  Etangeliat. 

We  have  wiled  away  several  hours  pleasantly  and  profitably  in  its  perusal,  ar.d  can 
recommend  ic  as  a  work  deserving  of  a  large  circulation.  The  principle.s  of  the  Or- 
der are  set  forth  by  its  author,  the  Rev.  D.  W.  Bristol,  a  distinguished  Methodist 
clergyman,  in  a  masterly  manner,  objections  instituted  by  many  to  the  Order,  aro 
fairly  tested,  and  answered  in  a  mild  and  eatislactory  way.  It  is  a  c'lenp  and  useful 
work,  and  we  cheerfully  recommend  it  to  public  favor.— Af/rror  of  the  Times, 

Able  and  exceedingly  interesting  articles,  that  vrn  would  most  cordially  commend 
to  the  attention  of  every  reader,  while  we  are  gratified  at  being  able  to  bring  them 
under  the  notice  of  members  of  the  great  Order.  The  work  contains  also  Addresses 
by  Rev.  D.  W.  Bristol,  and  is  etnbeljished  with  several  fine  Steel  Engravings.  Fully 
and  correctly  defining  the  principles  of  O.  F.,  it  should  fill  a  niche  in  the  library  of 
every  Odd  Fellow,  where  it  will  furnish  a  mine  of  valuable  nuuier  whence  he  can 
draw  at  all  limes  for  the  facts  illustrative  of  the  great  princi|>!e3  of  the  noble  institu- 
tion of  Odd  Fellowship.— GoWen  Rule. 

It  is  an  excellent  work,  and  worthy  of  the  patronage  of  the  Order.  The  objections 
often  urged  against  our  insiitution,  are  most  ihormizhly  examined,  and  ably  answer- 
ed.   The  book  is  got  up  in  good  style,  and  is  o/Iered  at  a  low  price.— yAe  Ark. 

W«  should  think  that  every  lover  of  the  Order  which  this  book  upholds  would 
adorn  his  library  with  it ;  an1  every  person  that  is  opposed  to  it  should  also  have 
one  BO  that  they  could  see  their  objections  answered.  We  would  say  to  every  lover 
of  the  poor  and  afflicted,  buy  one  and  peruse  it  for  yourselves  and  see  what  the  Odd 
"ellowfl  do  for  them.  Its  motto  is  "  Do  unto  others  as  ye  would  have  others  do  unto 
you."— 7'Ae  Bte. 

This  is  a  clear,  fbrcible,  and  well  written  exposition  of  the  subjects  above  named ; 
and  a  book  that  every  Odd  Fellow  in  the  country  should  bo  in  possession  of.  Th« 
work  is  well  got  up,  and  embellished  with  several  fine  engravings  appropriate  to  th» 
subject  of  which  it  treats.  It  is  sold  at  tlie  low  price  of  one  dollar,  and  can  be  .mailed 
to  any  part  of  the  United  States.— JJanner  o/"r4c  t/hion. 


*t 


% 


trORKS   PUBLISHSD  BT  DBRBr   *  MILLER. 

THE  LIFE  OF  LOUIS  KOSSUTH, 

,  dOTERNOK     OP    HdNOART;    INCLUDINO     N0TICE8    OP    THE     MrN     ANB 

Scenes  op  the  Hunqarun  Rkvolution  :   to  which  is  aoobo  an 
Appendix,  containing  his   principal  Speechrs,  &c.    With   an 
Introduction  by  Horace  Grkklet.    Br  P.  C.  Headley.    Anbnrn 
Derby  &>  Mii.lkr. 


"We  have  read  pretty  nearly  everyililng  accessible  which  has  beoi 

pi^lished  either  ui  England  or  this  country,  in  reference  to  Kossuth 

•ad'Hungarian  affairs,  and  we  are  satistled  that  thie>  is  the  clearest, 

.^^^IJiMil  luranged,  and  most  reliable  single  volunao  yet  before  the  public 

^     "^fAWMe  absorbing  »nhj^cts."—hoxlon  Paper. 

* 

■^       "  This  is  a  work  that  every  lover  of  freedom  should  be  posMtased 
.*       o£" — Waverley  LunUnary. 


(.***•  Mr.  Headley  has  glowingly  depicted  the  canses  which  brought 
about  the  Hungarian  war  of  independence,  painted  in  his  own  gor- 
geous style  tiiebattle-fieldH  of  that  sanguinary  strife,  and  portrayed  in 
the  most  vivid  colors  the  events  which  brought  about  its  disastrouB 
result" — Hampshire  Express.' 


"As  a  historical  work  this  volume  in  valuable.  The  Hungarian 
Revolution — its  causes — its  progress — its  termination — all  are  explain- 
ed in  detail,  and  with  a  vividness  of  description  which  brings  the  iu- 
cidents  in  almost  life-view  before  the  reader." — Troy  Post. 


.%'(  ".It  is  from  tlie  pen  of  P.  C.  Headley,  well  known  by  his  popular 
historical  and  biographical  writings,  and  is  given  in  a  style  of  glowmg 
earnestness,  eloquence  and  truthfulness,  which  must  commend  it  to 
(he  taste  and  judgment  of  the  public." — Boston  Transcript. 


"  Its  worth  and  popularity  are  suflSciently  indicated  by  the  fact  Uiat 
about  fifteen  thousand  copies  have  already  been  disposed  of.  It  k 
embellished  by  a  most  spirited  likeness  of  the  great  M^ar." — Chmirth 
Ambassador, 


"  This  American  biography  of  the  Hungarian  is  succinct,  spirited, 
graphic,  and  so  far  as  our  information  extends,  correct  It  is  admi* 
rably  prefaced  by  Horace  Qreeley— a  preface  worth  the  price  of  tb« 
book — and  has  an  appendix  containing  Kossuth's  principal  speeohei 
iM^.in  England  and  America."— .8««t0»  CommonwuUtk, 


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